Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 08:59:55 -0500
Subject: re:overdrive rebuild

The Overdrive is not too difficult to rebuild (from what I understand), it's
just too expensive. The purchase price of the needle bearings and other
components added up is at least as much as a new unit. I recommend waiting
for a sale. I bought my new Fairey from British Pacific for $680, which is
about $100 cheaper than any place else I've ever seen.
The Spanish made Santana model may be worth rebuilding since it uses regular
bearings, is no longer made, and some say it's the better unit since it holds
twice as much 90w and therefore runs much cooler. I don't know much else
about these units, but I know they are a bit rare.
The main reason ODs wear out is because they don't hold enough oil.The oil
heats up fast and since there isn't much of it, it wears out really soon, so
the bearings are getting sub-par lubrication. I've had good luck using a high
ratio mixture of HIGH-TACH or another "climbing" gear oil additive - almost
1:1.  It keeps the parts slick and ready to be engaged. Also, I change my oil
every 1000 miles of engaged use (or a close guess).
Good luck!
Alex Maiolo
69 IIa
89 Range Rover

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 96 14:01:36 UT
From: "Stephen Miller" <BOMILCAR@msn.com>
Subject: Land Rover Rental - Switzerland, Bavaria

Does any one know of a rental agency that deals in Land Rovers any where in 
Switzerland?   I will be in Switzerland in late November for 5 days and hope 
to take a few days to see the sights.  I have not been to Europe for 10 years 
and then only with a Eurail Pass.  I am trying to decide between the Eurail 
and a Rover rental.  Any input on Rental Agencies or itinerary for an amateur 
photographer would be greatly appreciated.

Steve
72 Series III
88 RR

------------------------------

From: "John J. Tackley" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 10:17:17 -500
Subject: K&N Air Filter

Gerry Elam wrote:
>The SIIA that I purchased recently has a Weber carb. on it.  The air
>filter is a K&N.  Went to the autoparts store thinking it would be a
>fairly easy match.  Took us about 15 minutes to match one up going by
>dimensions  and it was a special order.
K&N filters last forever.  They are washable.  After thorough 
cleaning, obtain some K&N Filter Oil from most any auto parts house 
or motorcycle dealer and re-spray the filter and re-install.
If your filter was physically damaged, obviously it would need 
to be replaced, but that is the only reason I can think of for doing 
so.  I've been using the same ones for years on various vehicles, 
FWIW.
*** John J. Tackley, Richmond, VA ***
* '74 SIII 88" "Gen. P. Lee" *
* '81 300SD *
* '89 FLHS "OINK" (That'l do, pig) *

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 09:02:41 -0500
From: Kevin Girling <lroshop@idirect.com>
Subject: LRO International

Since we obtained a reduction in the subscription price and managed to get
more US content the complaints about LROI have dried up (apart from Dixon K.
of course).

Can we assume that we have arrived at a happy medium and everyone is happy?
If so I must say that was very easy.  Never in the history of Land Rover has
it been so easy to satisfy the few with something designed for so many.

I can now relax a bit although if anyone has any comments for the editor I
will be in the UK next week visiting with him.  I leave this Friday.

Regards.

------------------------------

From: "Chris Witzgall" <witzgall@citizen.infi.net>
Subject: re:Series transmissions (was HP and Torque limit of IIA drive train)
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 09:18:27 -0500

So now someone tells me!!! Wit the help of Dave McKain, I recently replaced
the layshaft in my transmission for that exact reason. It snapped very
cleanly in the same spot, I believe. We just took the gears from the old
shaft and slipped them on the "new" one, from a donor tranny. This was
round two of the ordeal, we first tried to use another tranny, but had
problems with that. My question is, does this always snap so cleanly when
it does break? If that is the case, then we would have tried to fix the
roiginal tranny from the start. But then, we wouldn't have the joy of doing
it twice...

Chris Witzgall
1970 IIA 88
Delaplane, VA

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: LRO International
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 96 14:32:30 GMT

> Since we obtained a reduction in the subscription price and managed to get
> more US content the complaints about LROI have dried up (apart from Dixon K.
> of course).

> I can now relax a bit although if anyone has any comments for the editor I
> will be in the UK next week visiting with him.  I leave this Friday.

More UK content!  :-)

Richard  (guess where..)

------------------------------

From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 14:38:03 +0000
Subject: Re: Land Rover Rental - Switzerland, Bavaria

Quoting Stephen Miller, from 29 Oct 96

> Any input on Rental Agencies or itinerary for an amateur photographer
> would be greatly appreciated. 
Franz is a good man to contact.

He lives just east of Munich (Muenchen?) and has a great store of 
knowledge of the area.  Note: if you phone him, it takes a second-or-two 
for his brain to switch from German to English ;-)

As for sights - Ludwigs castles are great, as are all the Alpine views!

Note: Switzerland is expensive for food -- and almost everything else for 
that matter.

Enjoy your holiday!

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 131 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

However strong my opinions are, they are mine and no-one elses.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 16:17:43 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@www.adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: Engaging 4x4 on the move

Geoffrey Said wrote:
> I have a Series III 109" and reading in my post I am having the impression that
> I can engage 4x4 on the move.  Is this correct.  Any special procedures to
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> Geoffrey
> Still learning

Hi Geof,

Yup, you sure can (as long as you havn't installed free-wheel hubs!).
This is one of the major advantages of Landies.

At anything below 60Km/h you just whack in the yellow knob. Simple, no?
No clutch, no decreasing revs, no nothing. Because your hubs are
permanently locked, both the front and the back wheels (and side shafts
and crown  wheels and pinions, and propshafts are rotating at exactely
the same speed. When you depress the yellow knob it drops a dog
inbetween the two, already, rotating gears (one driven through the
gearbox by the motor, and one drived by the front wheels' rotation), "et
voila" POWER TO THE WHEELS!

To eliminate possible damage ... DON'T FIT FREE-WHEEL HUBS! If you
forget whether the hubs are engaged or not and have to engage 4X4 on the
move (and the hubs aren't locked) you're gonna swear at yourself.

Regards

Paul
http://www.adventures.co.za

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 09:45:56 -0500
From: Stephen Brown <sbrown@trek.ned.ara.com>
Subject: Thermostat for Ser II

HELP!!!

I have a 1960 series II '88 and I cant seem to find a thermostat to
fit it properly. the wax type thermostat for series IIa and III sold
by Rovers North and others -- Part numbers (532453,596225,542192) WONT
work. I have a one-piece upper housing instead of a two piece. The
aforementioned LR part just flops around inside the upper housing, the
O-ring wont hold it in place. The port in the head has a recessed
groove of outside diameter of about 2 5/16" which looks like it would
take a standard american style thermostat, but I cant find one of the
right diameter, they are either way too small or way too big. I've
resorted to buying a crysler 2.5" version and grinding it down to make
it fit -- not fun and not a pretty sight.

Meanwhile it's getting cold in Vermont and cardboard over the radiator
doesn't afford the proper control of engine temperature I'd like to
see.

Anyone run into this recently? Any suggestions?

Thanks

			Stephen Brown
			sbrown@ned.ara.com

------------------------------

From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 14:44:35 +0000
Subject: Re: LRO International

Quoting Richard Marsden, from 29 Oct 96

> > I can now relax a bit although if anyone has any  comments for the
> > editor I will be in the UK next week visiting with   him.  I leave this
> > Friday.
> More UK content!  :-)
More Scottish content!! :-}

> Richard  (guess where..)
Ian (north of Richard..)

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: LRO International
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 96 14:56:02 GMT

> > More UK content!  :-)
> More Scottish content!! :-}

which is a part of the UK...

It should of course all be Yorkshire, with the exception of the articles about
vehicles, which should concentrate on SIII 109 FFRs!
(or perhaps the odd 101, 'cos I fancy owning one!)

Richard (guess what and where)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 10:35:34 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: LRO International

On Tue, 29 Oct 1996, Kevin Girling wrote:

> Since we obtained a reduction in the subscription price and managed to get
> more US content the complaints about LROI have dried up (apart from Dixon K.
> of course).

	:-)  Hey, gotta keep you on your toes...  All the complaining did 
	eventually lead to a twenty pound drop in price for us the last
	time around.  Details, we just want some of the details addressed.
	LRO is a fine publication, but you can never think you have arrived.
	That is stagnation and the competition will quickly catch up.  You
	have to keep raising the mark.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 08:44:44 -0700
From: Chris Brosious <brosious@pogo.den.mmc.com>
Subject: Snow Tires - for Canadian Winter

John Pym writes:
>>Looking to prepare my NAS D90 for a Canadian winter.  I have the OEM
>>BFG 265/75 R16 BFG Mud/Terrain tires, but have been warned that these
>>may be unsuitable for snow conditions - clear snow well from the 
>>treads,but may "float" rather than biting down through deep snow.  Is <snip>

John, these are GREAT snow tires, one of the best I have ever had.  I
was very impressed 4 wheeling in the snow in the Rocky Mountains last
year.  I do not have any problem with float; I keep mine aired up a bit
just to ensure this. Stay with the BFG mudders - you'll like them.

Chris Brosious
'94 D90

------------------------------

From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 15:47:49 +0000
Subject: Re: LRO International

Quoting Richard Marsden, from 29 Oct 96

> > > More UK content!  :-)
> > More Scottish content!! :-}
> which is a part of the UK...
> It should of course all be Yorkshire.

My wife, a secondary school teacher (pupils are aged 12-18 yrs), managed 
to convince some 14yr-olds that Yorkshire was part of Scotland - only 
Newcastle kept them apart.

The kids even tried to convince the Geography teacher...

Well, *I* thought is was funny :-)

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 131 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

However strong my opinions are, they are mine and no-one elses.

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 29 Oct 96  9:37:26 EST
Subject: Re: Free wheel hubs

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 15:57:15 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: LRO International

>I can now relax a bit although if anyone has any comments for the editor I
>will be in the UK next week visiting with him.  I leave this Friday.
>Regards.

Yeh,OK,Kevin,I've got one,since I expect the Ed is P O'd with hearing from
me.
The ex Hodder late 11A is supposed to be turned into a trials machine.Why?
These late 11A's arent that plentiful(werent in the first place,certainly
arent now.)There isnt that much wrong with it,from the report.Wouldnt it
be better to fix it and leave it original? If they *must* bugger about
with a project,I'd suggest there are a good many more S111 vehicles
about deserving of that sort of "attention".I can remember the same sort
of thing happening to Austin Sevens,much to the delight of collectors,who
watched the supply of donor vehicles for "specials" get less and less,while
the value of their originals went ever upwards.There doesnt look to be
anything wrong with the old girl more than most of us would expect to fix
for a medium expensive MOT.Perhaps not all that expensive,either.
Oh,and would you ask him since when Land Rovers have had floor pans?
Particularly ones that rust?
Cheers
Mike Rooth
(1970 11A SWB diesel owner,whose vehicle is giving him much more
hassle than that one,and is not about to be disposed of)

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@bestinforsg.com>
Subject: MOT
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 96 11:04:00 PST

Stupid question #1: What is an MOT (in England)?

Actually, that's the only question...

Thanks in advance,
Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 11:21:54 -0300
From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
Subject: Re: Air filters

>The SIIA that I purchased recently has a Weber carb. on it.  The air filter
>is a K&N.  Went to the autoparts store thinking it would be a fairly easy
>match.  Took us about 15 minutes to match one up going by dimensions  and it
>was a special order.
Gerry,
        The K&N filters are usually designed to be semi-permanent and made
to be cleaned with a special solvent that K&N sells.

Steven Paustian
AKA Generalissimo Chaos  (Al U. Minium)
President, Flatland Rover Society
04/500 D90SW

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: MOT
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 96 16:23:48 GMT

> Stupid question #1: What is an MOT (in England)?

Ministry of Transport

Its an annual test all cars over 3 years old, have to take. Check its safe
to run on the roads,etc,etc. Costs about 25-30 quid.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 16:41:12 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Free wheel hubs

>P.S.: Lay off the Yank crap, OK?
>     ajr

I'll go along with Al on that.Especially since Land Rover themselves
have offered FWH as optional factory fitted doodads in the past.
cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 16:42:32 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: LRO International

>My wife, a secondary school teacher (pupils are aged 12-18 yrs), managed
>to convince some 14yr-olds that Yorkshire was part of Scotland -
You mean its *not*? Well,you live and learn......
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 16:51:22 +0000
Subject: Re: LRO International

Quoting Mike Rooth, from 29 Oct 96

> >My wife, a secondary school teacher (pupils are aged 12-18 yrs), managed
> >to convince some 14yr-olds that Yorkshire was part of Scotland -
> You mean its *not*? Well,you live and learn......
I know that they have a similar outlook on life, loves and money, but they 
really are a different race of people - there are no folk like the Yorkshire 
folk.

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 131 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

However strong my opinions are, they are mine and no-one elses.

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: LRO International
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 96 17:01:00 GMT

> > >My wife, a secondary school teacher (pupils are aged 12-18 yrs), managed
> > >to convince some 14yr-olds that Yorkshire was part of Scotland -
> > You mean its *not*? Well,you live and learn......

I remember a Cambridge student being very surprised when I told him Leeds
was 200 miles from the Scots border (in reply to his "that's somewhere up
near Scotland!")

> I know that they have a similar outlook on life, loves and money, but they 
> really are a different race of people - there are no folk like the Yorkshire 
> folk.

The 3Bs: Beer, Brass, and Bint...

Richard

------------------------------

From: "Mark Talbot" <rangerover@top.monad.net>
Subject: Off-road trip Nov 2nd 
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 12:08:01 -0500

All, 

Due to work commitments, I will have to cancel this weekends trip. Sorry.
Will probably arrange something towards to start of December. 

Mark 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 17:07:47 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: MOT

>Stupid question #1: What is an MOT (in England)?
>Actually, that's the only question...

Stands for Misery On Tap,otherwise known as the Ministry Of Transport
annual test,supposedly to establish your vehicle is roadworthy.In practice,
you are asking someone you normally wouldnt ask what day it was with any
expectation of getting a coherent reply,to comment on the condition of
your vehicle,AND YOU'RE PAYING THE BASTARD!!!!
Involved are:
Brakes,Lights,Steering,Tyres,Condition of chassis(Land Rover specific,in a
way)Mirrors,Emissions,Condition of windshield wipers,Working of washers
for above.Stone chips in windshield,Turn indicators(see lights),Any bits
of bodywork sticking out and liable to hurt drunks on foot,Shock Absorbers
(forget about those with a Land Rover,jumping on the bumper wont move 'em)
Spring bushes(Tested by hanging on a crowbar long enough to dent a
battleship)Fuel leaks,engine stopped and running,Condition of exhaust
system,and associated hanging arrangements,Seat belts(if fitted),seat
security,The ability to open the sodding doors from the *inside*.
Swivel bearings,Wheel bearings front and rear,and just about anything else
that comes to mind.Basically,its a means of making money for the Motor
Factor Trade,and has little to do with safety any more.(Go on,argue if
you want..I know,you will...).This is done annually,at a cost of,about
28quid for the test alone.And what's more,if the underneath isnt clean
enough for his Lordship,he can refuse to test it.The one restriction on
them is that they cant dismantle anything.The tests are run by *private*
licensed garages,with no guarantee that the so-called mechanic that is
giving you the benefit of his expert opinion can even *read*,much less
knows anything significant about motor vehicles,and if you do your
own maintenance its almost certain he knows less about the subject
than you do.
It wasnt a stupid question,its just a stupid regulation.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 09:27:45 -0800 (PST)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Snow Tires - for Canadian Winter

>>John Pym writes:
>>Looking to prepare my NAS D90 for a Canadian winter.  I have the OEM
>>BFG 265/75 R16 BFG Mud/Terrain tires, but have been warned that these
>>treads,but may "float" rather than biting down through deep snow.  Is <snip>

> Chris Brosious writes:
> John, these are GREAT snow tires, one of the best I have ever had. I
> was very impressed 4 wheeling in the snow in the Rocky Mountains last
> year.  I do not have any problem with float; I keep mine aired up a bit
> just to ensure this. Stay with the BFG mudders - you'll like them.

I agree, the BFG Mud/Terrains a great in snow. The weekend before last, I
drove across Chinook Pass and up a Forest Service Road to "Raven's Roost" 
in the Cascade Mountains just northeast of Mt. Rainier.
My stock '94D90 with 35,000 miles on the BFG Mud/Terrains made it further
than anyone else's tracks in the snow, including some tracks with chains.
Best wishes,
David Rosenbaum 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 12:06:22 -0500
From: NateDunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: New LR sort of

Hi all,

Just purchased a new LR for rebuild, a SIII 88".  It reportedly hasn't
run for a year.
My plan is to drain and replace engine oil, put some lightweight oil
down the spark plug holes, flush radiator, and replace the plugs before
trying to start it up. Any suggestions on other things to do before
firing it up?

If it runs, I also plan to drain and refill the gearbox, transfer case
and diffs and testing the transmission.  Again, any suggestions?

Thanks
-- 
Nate Dunsmore
88" SIIa ("The Blue Brick" http://members.aol.com/naddmd/first.htm )
dunsmo19@us.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 14:10:40 +0100
From: Rokegem Luc <defender@belgonet.be>
Subject: Re: Range Rover Roof Lining

Sanna@aol.com wrote:

> 8. Lay the new material on the headliner and distribute evenly. Then,
> fold it back on itself exactly halfway, lengthwise, so you spray the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
> place, apply the eight retainer clips. Trim off an excess and replace
> the gasket. You're done.

Thanks Allah that I'm not driving a Strange-Rover !

                       :-)
Regards,

-- 
 _                  _____       _                             
| |                |  __ \     | |                            
| |    _   _  ___  | |__) |___ | | _____  __ _  ___ _ __ ___  
| |   | | | |/ __| |  _  // _ \| |/ / _ \/ _` |/ _ \ '_ ` _ \ 
| |___| |_| | (__  | | \ \ (_) |   <  __/ (_| |  __/ | | | | |
|______\__,_|\___| |_|  \_\___/|_|\_\___|\__, |\___|_| |_| |_|
                                          __/ |               
                                         |___/                

          _______________                
         //  |           |    St-Pauwels  (Belgie)
   ____ //___|           |#   defender@belgonet.be
  |   __            __   |#   
  |__/  \__________/  \__|   
http://www.belgonet.be/~bn000165/index.html
     \__/          \__/    

      \|/
     ( ..)                
 --oOO-()-OOo----------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 10:00:43 -0800
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: hotter coil

Yesterday I installed an Accel 'supercoil' I had laying around from a 
previous project. I put a ballast resistor on the positive side to cut 
the voltage but apparently that wasn't enough. One trip around the block 
and the points were welded. Does anyone know how much resistance I will 
need in order to run the supercoil?

The idea behind the hotter coil was to allow a wider plug gap for more 
spark now that the damp, makes the rover miserable, season is 
approaching.

Thanks, Greg

------------------------------

From: jimallen@onlinecol.com
Date: 29 Oct 1996 12:01:42 MDT
Subject: V-8 Camshaft

Andy,

       The HMV-202 Crane is still being ground but it now uses a
different part number. The current incarnation is a 900531. I'm
surprised your speed shop couldn't find it since the Crane catalog has a
Rover V8 section and has had one for at least 3 years. Also, watch the
December issue of Four Wheeler for an article on Rovers that has even
more info.
       With regards to your manifold choice, it's spot on. Your carb
idea, however, is not so hot. A 3.5 needs less than 300cfm to rev to
5500. If you overcarb it, you bottom end power will get very soggy and
you'll hate the conversion.
       Here are three concrete choices. 1) get the Performer and adapt a
Weber 38/38DGAS (300cfm) 2-barrel onto it. This has been done in the UK
with great regularity and good results. 2) The Holly 390cfm 4 barrel
will bolt on. If properly jetted, there will be minimal loss of low end
power but you will still lose some. Also, this carb is a notorious
flooder in off-road situations but can be modified. 3) The most
expensive solution is to buy a throttle body injection system  (Holly
ProJection, Howell, etc). They all make 2-barrel systems that adapt to
any engine. Using the stock intake system with HIF-6 SUs works very well
as these carbs are very tunable and adaptable to engine mods.
       Stay in touch. I'm pressed for time now, but I can share more
Rover V8 info in the future when I'm home for a while.

Jim Allen
jimallen@onlinecol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 13:03:57 -0500
From: NateDunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Testing.

Just seeing if a post travels to the list faster via this address or
lro@land-rover.team.net

-- 
Nate

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS)
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 12:22:38 -0600
Subject: Minneapolis Rover Meeting

Hi all,

An informal gathering of Rover people is being planned for this coming   
Saturday evening, Nov 2, (specific time & place to be determined, but   
will likely involve a watering hole) hopefully to discuss plans for a   
possible club in the area.

If you are in the Twin Cities are (or anywhere else), and would like to   
take part in this meeting, please contact me at the email address below   
and I'll be sure to get you all the specifics.

Tentative attendees include my IIa 88, a SIII 88, and a D90 SW. Anyone   
interested in Rover products is welcome.

Hope to see a few more faces,

Tim
 ---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW  

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 29 Oct 96 13:07:41 EST
Subject: Re: New LR sort of

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 14:58:27 -0500
From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: Free wheel hubs

>>P.S.: Lay off the Yank crap, OK?
>>     ajr
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>cheers
>Mike Rooth

Another "Yank" (which is not meant to include Mike under that label) who
has to vote YES on free-wheeling hubs.  I  more easily maintain speed on
grades with the hubs disengaged.  Also, the car feels just a bit peppier
when passing around the "top-speed" zone.  I can't speak to improved gas
mileage as I never bother keeping track -- I just don't want to know for
sure...

Maybe it is a something of a "Yank" issue, but there's nothing wrong with
us "upstarts in the colonies" optimizing our Rovers for the environment in
which they are used. In the case of Al and I (and others on this list), our
vehicles spend more time on the interstate highways than they do on green
lanes.  Overdrives (although mine did blow out, and has yet to be replaced)
and free wheel hubs are an important part of our vehicles liveability.
Your situation might be different, and that's fine.  There is no single
"best" set of equipment for a Rover -- and advice to "NOT FIT FWH" just
doesn't make sense in all cases -- especially when most of your complaints
about the system don't seem to apply in my experience.

Problems with FWH seem to occur primarily in cases where the owner doesn't
bother to lock the hubs from time to time.  I've heard varied periods that
people use -- Once a month for an entire day, once a week while you're
running to the grocery store, etc.  Based on my informal research, it
doesn't seem to matter very much which of these "systems" you use, so long
as you manage to get a little oil splashing into the hubs at modest
intervals.

My own policy is to (generally) leave the hubs engaged unless I'm on an
extended highway trip.  I also leave them engaged if the weather is looking
like I might need "on demand" 4WD.  This system works well for me, and
satisfies, in my book, the "pros and cons" of having the FWH.  The extra
weight is a non-factor, and reliability hasn't been an issue for me or
amongst those I've spoken to who take the time to lock the hubs at regular
intervals.  And a "hub failure" means, at worst, a loss of 4WD -- this is
not likely to be "life or death" in most of my driving.  Once again, YMMV.

This lack of problems is not  only true amongst Rover owners. I know a
number of people with older "Yank" trucks that are so equipped --
International Scouts, early Ford Broncos and Chevy Blazers & Suburbans,
still on the road and going strong.  (Though they generally have a bit more
rust than we're used to on Rovers.) These pre-SUV trucks were designed to
work hard, same as a Land-Rover, and they  all have more powerful engines
(than a Series beast at least) which, I presume, translates into more
torque on the hubs in question. (Someone who didn't sleep through that M.E.
lecture is free to correct me on this.)  It just doesn't seem to be that
unreliable of a system in practice.

I'm even thinking about bolting a set of free wheeling hubs on the rear to
make flat towing the beast a little easier and less stressul on the drive
train.  Different strokes I guess.

RoverOn!

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 21:29:19 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Engaging 4x4 on the move

Geoffrey Said wanted to know about engaging 4wd while the vehicle is moving. 
This can be done by pushing the yellow knob down. Just make sure the rear 
wheels and the front wheels are moving at about the same speed, i.e. the 
rear wheels are not spinning, since the front wheel drive is not synchronized.

Now the red knob also engages 4wd and low gear at the same time. This can be 
done while the vehicle is moving, but needs practice since you have to 
double de-clutch (which you don't have to do with your S III gearbox - us 
poor people with older vehicles have non-synchronised first and second 
gears, and we have to practice double de-clutching all the time). Best to 
only go into low 4wd when the vehicle is stationary.
Hope this helps
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 21:29:16 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: SerIII Heater Fan Blades

Rob Dennis <73363.427@CompuServe.COM> asked about Smith heaters.

First of all, you will hardly notice any difference in heat output whether 
you have a fan there or not. However, if you insist in having it repaired, 
these people might be able to help you:

Autoheat
60 Coleshill Trading Estate
Roman Way
Coleshill B46 1JP
United Kingdom
Tel. (UK) 1657 65677

They used to have spares for round heaters. Since this info is elderly, they 
may not be around any more. Hope this helps
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 21:35:25 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Testing.

NateDunsmore wrote:
> Just seeing if a post travels to the list faster via this address or
> lro@land-rover.team.net
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> --
> Nate
Did it?
-- 
adrian redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
tel: +45 86 57 22 66  e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk

1:	Series III 1976 109" D Pick-up
2:	Series III 1979  88" D Hard top (Icelander)
---------------------------------------------------
"Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!"
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 12:38:12 -0800
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: Re: Free wheel hubs

Jeffrey A Berg wrote:

> I'm even thinking about bolting a set of free wheeling hubs on the rear to
> make flat towing the beast a little easier and less stressul on the drive
> train.  Different strokes I guess.

Imagine the surprise on the face of would be car theives!

Cheers, Greg - now let's see, the motor is running.....

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 16:00:37 -0500
From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: Free wheel hubs

>> I'm even thinking about bolting a set of free wheeling hubs on the rear to
>> make flat towing the beast a little easier and less stressul on the drive
>> train.  Different strokes I guess.

>Imagine the surprise on the face of would be car theives!

Imagine my surprise when I came back and find that my car wasn't where I'd
left it -- I don't live in the flatlands anymore. No locked hubs = no
parking brake or gearbox resistance.

I think I'll take my chances with the theives, thanks anyway. ;-)

RoverOn!

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg    Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                   jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ----------------
	Look what happens when you love someone,
	and they don't love you.
                             --Warren Zevon, The Heartache

------------------------------

From: "S. Vels" <svels@mail-server.dk-online.dk>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 23:08:12 +0001
Subject: Re Free wheel hubs

> From:          Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>

> I would be interested in hearing how they are actually fitted, and how
> easy this is to do in a well equipped workshop? Are any special tools
> required, other than the stock Solihull Part Number -

Only one special tool for the castellated nut on the half shaft, - if 
you don't use something else.

The FWH comes in two parts, one of which is an assembly. The first 
part is a new drive flange. Swap them. Grease splines. The second part 
(the assembly) must be in 2x4 or disengaged. Fit it. Use coppergrease 
on the Unbraco (Allen ?) bolts if the FWHs are Superwinch or AVM.
Voila.

rgds
sv/aurens

------------------------------

From: Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com>
Subject: Ammeter Guage
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 96 13:26:55 PST

Hello,

I am trying to install an amp guage on my Defender-90. Does anyone know
where to make the wire connections. I am assuming this would be the same
question for a discovery as well.

The instuctions with the guage say to connect it either to the starter
solonied, the regulator, or the battery relay? Help! Has anyone done this
before on a def or discovery? (I am not sure if Discoveries already have
an ammeter guage or not).

Thanks, 

Leland Roys
roys@cup.hp.com
94 Def-90

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 16:27:01 -0500
From: NateDunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Re: Free wheel hubs

All this talk about free wheel hubs, my right rear hub may be leaking,
where can you get these free wheel hubs ; )

-- 
Nate Dunsmore
88" SIIa ("The Blue Brick" http://members.aol.com/naddmd/first.htm )
dunsmo19@us.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 17:53:31 -0400
From: rovah@agate.net (John Cassidy)
Subject: Public Thank You!

Just wanted to publicly thank list member Marc Rengers from Holland!  When
I posted the question about taking apart the dash, he E-mailed me
directions word for word from his Series III workshop manual!  Talk about a
nice guy!  I had been working all day to get that damn thing off, and he
really  came through!

Thanks Marc! :-)

Cheers!   John

John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA

2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover, 1966 Series IIA 88", 1974
Series III 88"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 01:56:27 +0200
From: nahari ofir <ofir_n@parker.inter.net.il>
Subject: Re: Traceability service

At 03:26 PM 10/28/96 -0500, you wrote:
>Got my answer for a request to John Riley, Project Eng. Traceability in
>today's mail. 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 33 lines)]
>PHX  AZ
>'96 Disco "Great White"
>'64 .... 1963 Series IIA " Soldado Sangrando"
Hello Garry 
My rover is 1964v IIa n 24418859 (original color was Limestone)
Is it 1963 ? 
Can I trace it ?
I think it was originally for the Jordan Legion since its army loot.
thanks
Ofir Nahari
Israel
ofir_n@inter.net.il

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 16:55:51 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Traceability service

At 01:56 AM 10/30/96, Ofir Nahari <ofir_n@inter.net.il> of Israel wrote:
>My rover is 1964v IIa n 24418859 (original color was Limestone)
>Is it 1963 ? 
>Can I trace it ?
>I think it was originally for the Jordan Legion since its army loot.

 Ofir,

 I noticed on my sheets that a lot of Land Rovers were sold to Jordan,
 many in Royal Blue to palace guards or security.

 Based on your vehicle's serial number, write for a definitive answer
 including shipping dates, dealer destination, and color info.
 Inquire to:
        Mr. John Riley
        Project eng,, Traceability
        LAND ROVER
        Lode Lane, Solihull
        West Midlands B29 8NW
        England

 Mr. Riley generally responds in 3 or 4 weeks.

 Cheers,

                         ______
 Michael Carradine       [__[__\==                           Rupert '72-88
 510-988-0900            [________]                 Land-Rover Roughmobile
 cs@crl.com  __________.._(o)__.(o)_____...o^^^^www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Oct 1995 11:12:29 +1000
From: Alastair <alastair.lyon@jcu.edu.au>
Subject: 6 cyls v.s TURBO DIESEL!!! *yay*

Hi all!

Just writing to proclaim that I just CLOCKED my LR!

I even got a photo of the dash at 000000 (must have looked pretty silly
from the outside, taking a photo of my dash at the side of the road! :>)

So, since it IS that *legendary* six cylinder; I WANT A TURBO DIESEL!

I know the SIII never had TD's in Australia, but what was the first model
here that did? And Where can I get one? What'll it cost me? Or should I
forget it all and fork out $4000 for a second hand Isuzu TD and
installation; and then get a new gearbox while I'm at it?

Oh, btw, saw all the stuff about oil lights - my car only puts it on very
shortly when it's cold (like 2 seconds tops), but as its on, there is a
distinct rattle...anything to worry about? I hope not...if there is maybe I
should be considering driving the beast into the nearest Unimog...

		Cheers!!

			- Alastair

*****************************************
*Alastair Lyon                                               *
** 1979 ex-Military Police Series III two door  *
*2.6L Rover 6 cyl.  			   *
*Townsville, Australia                                    *
*****************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Oct 1995 11:13:06 +1000
From: Alastair <alastair.lyon@jcu.edu.au>
Subject: My Freewheel hubs....

Okay, I took all of your advice and jacked up the front wheels
(independantly! I only have one jack!)...the side that has the "locked"
freewheel hub (ie the one that won't get out of 4x4) rotates easily; the
front propshaft doesnt rotate (and the hub is in 4x4!)...on the other side,
it does what I expected it to: when it's jacked up, and clicked into 4x4,
then rotated, the front prop shaft spins....nothing moves except the wheel
when its in 4x2.

Now, the side that works well is the side that spits oil all over my wheel;
so I guess this FWH needs it's gasket replaced?

On the OTHER side (that is buggered), I guess I need to top the CV joint up
with 90wt oil, then strip the FWH, and soak it in oil, replace the gasket
and hope for the best right?

in the mean time, no 4wd'ing if one hub rekons its in 4x4, but the front
prop shaft doesn't move...I'll screw my front end up right?

Not what I plan to do...:>

Thanks all!

Alastair

*****************************************
*Alastair Lyon                                               *
** 1979 ex-Military Police Series III two door  *
*2.6L Rover 6 cyl.  			   *
*Townsville, Australia                                    *
*****************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 18:55:56 -0700
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@ricochet.net>
Subject: New LR pics on the web

I've updated my web pages somewhat, and added some new pictures of my and
others' land rovers.  Please feel free to prowl around and let me know of
any busted links or errors or what-have-you.  Thanks!

The URL's are:

Main (business) page: <http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/>
Main (personal) page: <http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/uncroger.htm>
My Land Rover pics:   <http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/pics/lrpics.htm>
Other people's LR's:  <http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/pics/otherlr.htm>
LR's in EuroDisney:   <http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/pics/eurolr.htm>

They're all linked, so you can start at the top and find your way down.  

P.S., I'm pretty liberal, so if you're easily upset about such things, you
might want to skip some of my scriblings and ravings.

P.P.S., if you have pics of your LR, but no web page, I'd be happy to put
them out there for you.  Just let me know.

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 21:44:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Thermostat for Ser II (source)

Stephen Brown writes:
+I have a 1960 series II '88 and I cant seem to find a thermostat to
+fit it properly. the wax type thermostat for series IIa and III sold
+by Rovers North and others -- Part numbers (532453,596225,542192) WONT
+work. I have a one-piece upper housing instead of a two piece. The
+aforementioned LR part just flops around inside the upper housing, the
+O-ring wont hold it in place.

Try P. A. Blanchard in England, phone from U.S. is 011-44-1430-872765. They
are the only source I have found, and had SII thermostats recently. Revised
part number 90/513465, originally 513465. Not cheap though at 16.00# plus
shipping. This is an entirely different style thermostat from the usual flat
style with a moving shroud which restricts flow to the cylinder head.
Supposedly cracked heads can result from the wrong/no thermostat. The factory
workshop manual (Section K) notes that if switching to the flat, wax type
thermostat a modified water outlet pipe is fitted. No other info given.

An alternative is to switch the entire thermostat housing and outlet. British
North West sells "kits" which are also not cheap. I believe the needed parts
include castings 516059, 527109, 530476, thermostat 532453, and assorted
gaskets, bolts, hoses, etc. I haven't done the conversion myself.

Regards,
David Cockey
Rochester, MI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 21:57:14 -0500
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Subject: Steering Relay

Hearing stories about dry steering relays got me thinking. I couldn't
recall seeing an oil point on mine. So I consulted the manual, and sure
enough, there is a cast boss near the top of the relay, with a threaded
plug.

On Baby (69 IIA SWB LHD), I found the raised boss on the top of the relay
body, but it was butted up against the sheet metal. There was no way to oil
it without taking off the wings or more.  After probing a little more, I
discovered that there was no plug, either! The relay has never been drilled
for an oil hole. There is an oil stain at the bottom of the relay, so there
has been oil there in the past. But there is no drain hole, either. After
all these years, the relay probably needs a drink, but how do you get it in
there if there is no plug?

 _______
 |___|__\__==    Rabbits exist, hence we can speak meaningfully
 | _ |  |  --]   about rabbits. Some people attempt       <DARWIN><
 =(O)-----(O)=   to study the evolution of human           "     "
================ intelligence. We might have a problem there.
                 Ned Heite, town crank, Camden, Delaware 19934

                             

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 20:56:58 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Minneapolis Rover Meeting

Tim Harincar-MS wrote:
> Hi all,
> An informal gathering of Rover people is being planned for this coming
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)]
> harincar@mooregs.com
> '66 IIa 88 SW

Hi Tim.  Let me know what comes of your club idea.  Next summer I might 
take a trip in the beast just for fun and visit the area.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 22:19:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering Relay (How to fill)

>Hearing stories about dry steering relays got me thinking. I couldn't
>recall seeing an oil point on mine. So I consulted the manual, and sure
>enough, there is a cast boss near the top of the relay, with a threaded
>plug.

"Early" relays have fill and drain plugs. "Late" relays don't. On late relays
remove two (and only two) of the top cover bolts to fill the relay. One to
fill and one to vent.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 20:11:01 -0800 (PST)
From: scooper@scooper.seanet.com (Sandy Cooper)
Subject: Generator vs. alternator

When driving with all appliances going (wipers, heater, lights) I have no
juice left after stopping and trying to restart the beast.  When driving
with no appliances going I have enough juice to start the rover.  Should I
have the original generator rebuilt or purchase an alternator.  If the
alternator is the way to go, can you recomend a brand, size, and installing
tips?                                                   Thanks, John Cooper
1969 11a 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 21:47:18 -0700
From: faurecm@halcyon.com (C. Marin Faure)
Subject: Re: Engaging 4X4 on the move

>From: "Geoffrey Said" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
>Subject: Engaging 4x4 on the move
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>I can engage 4x4 on the move.  Is this correct.  Any special procedures to
>follow so to eliminate any damage that can be done?

As long as your Land Rover is not equipped with locking hubs (sometimes
called freewheel hubs), you can engage 4wd HIGH RANGE anytime at any speed
by pushing the 2wd/4wd lever (yellow knob) straight down.  To disengage
4wd, however, you will have to come to a complete stop, pull the High-Low
Lever (red knob) all the way back into LOW, which releases the yellow knob
lever, and then shift the High-Low lever back to HIGH.

If you vehicle is equipped with locking hubs you can follow the same
procedure ONLY if the hubs are engaged, or locked.  This ensures that the
forward drive shaft is turning the same speed as the transfer case final
drive.  Pushing down on the yellow knob lever simply "connects" two shafts
that are already turning at the same speed, and you have 4wd.

If the hubs are UNLOCKED, however, NEVER push down on the yellow knob shaft
at ANY speed.  Unlocking the hubs disconnects the front hubs from the front
axle, so the forward driveshaft will not be turning at all, or may be
turning only slowly as you drive along.  Pushing down on the yellow knob
lever will connect a shaft that isn't turning with a shaft that is turning,
and the result will be catastrophic and expensive.

Engaging LOW range will require you to come to a complete stop at which
point you can shift the High-Low lever (red knob) back to Low.  You can
shift from Low to High on the move, but you shouldn't be moving very fast
when you do.  The Series III owners manual spells all this out in more
detail.

C. Marin Faure
original owner
  1973 LR Series III 88
  1991 RR Vogue SE

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: Land Rover Rental - Switzerland, Bavaria
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 07:47:55 +0100 (MET)

Quoting , Ian Stuart from 30 Oct 96
| > Any input on Rental Agencies or itinerary for an amateur photographer
| > would be greatly appreciated. 
| Franz is a good man to contact.
Sorry, no knowledge about LRs to rent.

| He lives just east of Munich (Muenchen?) and has a great store of 
To be precise 50 km southeast.
| knowledge of the area.  Note: if you phone him, it takes a second-or-two 
| for his brain to switch from German to English ;-)
hey, hey! I don't get the chance to speak English very often. ;-)

If you intend to come around here drop my an email.

cu.
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: Steering Relay (How to fill)
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 08:14:29 +0100 (MET)

| >Hearing stories about dry steering relays got me thinking. I couldn't
| >recall seeing an oil point on mine. So I consulted the manual, and sure
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
| remove two (and only two) of the top cover bolts to fill the relay. One to
| fill and one to vent.
I'm pretty sure, that this won't get the 90w were it should (at least if you
don't wait a long time). There is a big brass washer on the of the two
halfs of the upper bearing and both the bearing and the washer don't let
enough space to get the air out and the oil in halfway quickly. Removing
the top cover and the brass washer should allow you to fill the relay with
a syringe by inserting the needle between the tow halfs. But I didn't
do this yet. The dreadful spring inside can just jump out, if you move the
shaft that far up that the two halfs of the bearing come out of the casing.
So, no fear!
I'd strongly recommend to drill the fillhole if you have it apart. Won't be
a bit deal for a machine shop and does wonders with filling and even more
with recompressing the spring.

Cheers,
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 23:19:05 -0800
From: "Unimog Network Int'l" <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Unimog Birthday

Dear Unimog (and Land-Rover) friends,

Just to let you know that the Unimog had his 50th birthday on October 10th.
Fifty years ago, the first Unimog was introduced to the public on October
10th at my home town Schwaebisch Gmuend.   During the past 50 years
changes occured in many ways, however, the initial engineering design
- four-wheel drive - 100% differential lock by shift on the go has never
been changed.   More on the Unimog history at a later date.

Best regards,

H.J. Feil   (Canada)

<hfeil@inforamp.net>

------------------------------

From: Alexander Zeppelzauer <zeppelza@kapsch.co.at>
Subject: Buying IIA, what to look for?
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 08:28:17 +-100

Hello everybody,

I have the chance to buy an IIA. Since I'm not very experienced with =
cars yet I'm asking for help for what to look at, in, under the LR for =
not to be cheated.
Can somebody give me some tips?

Alex

Austria

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 23:34:21 -0800
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: Generator vs. alternator

First, are you sure you have a generator?  Do you have headlamps on the
wings or in the breakfast, if they are on the wings you have a 'late' IIA.
I thought were standard on 'late' IIAs.   They are options on the early
IIAs (like mine--it's in the shop manual as optional equipment).

Second, I had this problem for a while after tonight's 'mop up' session
with my wiring harnes.  Had to pull the Disco into the carport and jump the
IIA.  The charge light was on for a very long time, and if the lights were
on, the car would eventually die.  I was suspicious of the generator
connections, so I turned the lights off (so it would keep running), and
took the test lamp to the yellow and yellow/white wires on the voltage
regulator.  They were both hot, so I scratched my head a bit.  I then went
into the passenger compartment to get something, and noticed that the
charge light was off.  When I turned the headlamps on, they were bright
again!  Only thing I can figure is that my battery got very weak from my
many attempts to start the car while figuring out if I had it wired up
right.  I let it run for a long time and then took it out for a spin.  The
first time I slowed down for a turn, the lights dimmed and my heart raced,
but then I turne up the hand throttle and all was well.  By the time I got
home, it was idling fine with the lights on.  

So my suggestion is that maybe you should try a new battery if you
consistantly have this problem, as it may not be charging efficiently.
It'll probably be cheaper than an alternator (although BritPac sells Delco
alternators for LRs pretty cheap), and it will definitely be cheaper if you
aren't planning on doing the installation yourself.

If your battery is new(ish) then never mind--I just may be full of BS.

Chris
'65 IIA 
'96 Disco

At 08:11 PM 10/29/96 -0800, you wrote:
>When driving with all appliances going (wipers, heater, lights) I have no
>juice left after stopping and trying to restart the beast.  When driving
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>tips?                                                   Thanks, John Cooper
>1969 11a 

------------------------------

From: houniet@xs4all.nl
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 10:21:26 +0100
Subject: Re: Engaging 4x4 on the move

> Geoffrey Said wrote:
> Yup, you sure can (as long as you havn't installed free-wheel hubs!).
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> This is one of the major advantages of Landies.
> At anything below 60Km/h you just whack in the yellow knob. Simple, no?

now I suppose that if you're stuck in some slippery situation, and your
rear wheels are spinning, you might think : OK i'll whack the yellow
knob......
If my deduction is correct, this will efficently remove the 4x4
capability of your landrover, as your rear and front wheels have
different speeds, pushing the yellow knob will cause the dogs to bark
loudly but not engage....

am I correct?
Floris houniet

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 10:41:32 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@www.adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: Engaging 4x4 on the move

houniet@xs4all.nl wrote:
> > Geoffrey Said wrote:
> > Yup, you sure can (as long as you havn't installed free-wheel hubs!).
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)]
> am I correct?
> Floris houniet

Hi Floris,

No, not really. You might note that I carefully explained that the
wheels  have to be rotating AT THE SAME SPEED. Perhaps I should have
gone into greater detail regarding the situations in which you should
engage 4wd. Once your wheels start spinning its too late.

Regards

Paul
http://www.adventures.co.za

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 05:47:28 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Generator vs. alternator

John Cooper sez..

>When driving with all appliances going (wipers, heater, lights) I have no
 juice left after stopping and trying to restart the beast.  When driving
 with no appliances going I have enough juice to start the rover.  Should I
 have the original generator rebuilt or purchase an alternator.  If the
 alternator is the way to go, can you recomend a brand, size, and installing
 tips?                                                   Thanks, John Cooper

-
Before you go that route, check the battery and the condition of the battery
terminals, battery cables, and connections on the generator and regulator.
You could have a weak battery or a poor connection preventing the battery
from being fully charged.

Cheers
Mike Loiodice
166 W. Fulton St.                  1965 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Faded Green     
Gloversville                       1972 SerIII 88 Petrol - Fern Camo
NY  12078  (USA)        7          1971 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Red and Blue
                     #:-}>         1964 Triumph Spitfire - BRG

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Hand Throttle
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 96 10:51:06 GMT

Replaced the spring on my throttle linkage. It no longers idles so fast.
The one that came out, hadn't broken, but was bent(!) and weak.
Also replaced a few bits on the wing-mounted pivot - had the whole lot
off, and washed it. Still got a lever and a few clips, which I might as well
replace - one of the old clips has popped off a couple of times now.

No longer idles fast!!  Still stalls - probably because the carb. hasn't been
re-adjusted. So, I spent yesterday evening (after replacing throttle
bots and test-driving the truck) reading about carb. setting and adjusting.

This begged a question, how should I use the hand-throttle? Most of the
time, I have it set on say the 3rd or 4th notch from the slow end?
Should I have it set (as opposed to "none") when using the truck just for
driving? I don't have a PTO, and don't need to charge big radio batteries.

Richard  (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Re: Four Wheel Hubs
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 96 22:31:00 EST

Chris,

This is not a flame but I found your comments interesting.  I have read a 
number of times in various Australian 4WD magazines, the comment that free 
wheel hubs make no discernible difference to fuel economy.  Has anyone else 
got a view?

Regards,
Ron Beckett

From: Chris Britain <landy@btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Free wheel hubs
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 96 19:15:32 GMT

Adrian

Re: Four Wheel Hubs

Yes, they reduce wear
Yes, they reduce noise
Yes, they save fuel, I got my money back in around two months
Yes, they are worth the investment. Just make sure you get ones
with the right number of splines. Saves a trip back to exchange
them!

Run them in 4WD every so often to make sure the oil in the
front end of the systems gets moved around a bit

Chris Britain
'82 SWB SIII Diesel

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Re: Range Rover Roof Lining
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 96 22:31:00 EST

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 18:07:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Range Rover Roof Lining

>interior roof lining in my January '87 Rangie has started to drop over
>the driver's seat area

Here's a solution that I saved from a previous post:

snip
Subject:     Headliner repair--$50
Sent:        9/12/96 1:21 PM
From:        shaunc@infi.net

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
Middleton, WI  53562
1-800-373-7226
snip

Thanks Anthony
regards, Ron

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RE: PARTS CATALOGUE
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 96 22:31:00 EST

Pieter

I know I am not in the UK but Australia is closer anyway.
For spares you might want to ask Four Wheel Drives Pty Ltd for one of their 
LR spares catalogues - price is free in Oz.  Note these are NOT the genuine 
LR spares catalogues - just lists and sketches of what they have.  These are 
for new parts and mainly cover the Series LRs but some RR, Disco, Defender 
and Land CRUISER parts (not so many though).

Their email address is fwd@mail.fwd.com.au
Fax : +61 3 9898-6374

For spare parts catalogues, I was looking through LRO International magazine 
and noticed they sell catalogues e.g. see below for their part nos. and 
prices to nearest pence (I am not sure how th pound symbol will appear on 
your PC).

300  LR I      1948-53         ?23
301  LR I 1953-58         ?23
303  LR II     1958-61         ?25
304  LR IIA    1961-71         ?30
306  LR III inc v8 1971-85     ?23
308  LR IIA & III opt eqpt 1961-85  ?18

320  RR   1971-85         ?25
321  RR   1986 on         ?45
340  Disco     1989 on         ?50

Their address is:
LRO Books
Anglian House
Chapel Lane
Botesdale, Diss, Norfolk IP22 1DT
Fax +44 1379 89-8244
Postage airmail add  ?6.50 per book.  Surface add  ?3.50 per book

Re LRO, (usual disclaimer) try your local newsagent to see if they will get 
it in - it will be *much* cheaper than subscribing e.g., subscription to 
Australia is about  ?93 per year which is about A$190.  Yet to get the mag 
at the newsagents albeit delayed a bit (I received the September issue 
yesterday) costs A$96

Hope this helps,

Regards
Ron
'93 RR classic
'87 RR classic
plus 3 Hillmans
 ----------
From: Pieter  Erasmus
Subject: PARTS CATALOGUE
Date: Wednesday, 30 October 1996 4:42PM

Hi there,

Can anybody out there supply me with an email address in the UK where I
can obtain a parts catalogue for RANGE ROVER CLASSIC and the SERIES LAND
ROVER.

Here in SOUTH AFRICA parts for the RRC are very scarce, especially
inside trimmings ect. If somebody knows about a breakers yard with
second-hand parts, let me know. I shall appreciate any information.

Have a nice day!!
Pieter Erasmus
'72 RRC

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Re: Gasahol - why shouldn't I use it?
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 96 22:31:00 EST

Ron Beckett asks: (and well he did)

Snip
> I note from the owners handbook that LR expressly advise owners not to use
> with meeting emission standards.

snip
The alchohol in GasAhol is a good solvent. You don't want to use it
in anything other than a new car or one with a completly rebuilt fuel
system (including tank). It will disolve all teh accumulated crud and
clog your system.

As for newer older cars, I suspect that some have rubber components
that can't withstand the alcohol.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578
trowe@aae.wisc.edu

Ahhhh!  Now you've got me worried.  I have been using it for some months now 
in my 1971 Hillman with no problems (as yet.   I bought the Hillman new so I 
know how it has been treated).

The car doesn't have a fuel filter apart from the one in the mechanical fuel 
pump and it looks OK.

Regards,  Ron Beckett

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Waxoyl In Australia
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 96 22:31:00 EST

All,

Would anyone know if Waxoyl is available in Australia?  I beleive that 
Blackwoods used to sell it but they don't anymore.

Regards,

Ron Beckett

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 11:56:10 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Hand Throttle

This begged a question, how should I use the hand-throttle? Most of the
time, I have it set on say the 3rd or 4th notch from the slow end?
Should I have it set (as opposed to "none") when using the truck just for
driving? I don't have a PTO, and don't need to charge big radio batteries.

Dont think it really matters.Doesnt on my diesel,at any event.As long
as you can notch up a bit on cold mornings until it gets warm,or to
give you a good charge rate if you're jump starting some poor mortal
the position is IMO immaterial.I've often had a "shall I,shant I"
look at mine,then found something better to do....:-)
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 69 lines 2823 [forwarded 257 whitespace 631]
 Output: lines 2039 [content 1208  forwarded 152 (cut  105) whitespace 585]

Land Rover Owner Subscription Information:

	* All new subscription requests are via the digest. *

In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked
Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved
(by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Useful commands for this are 'index lro-digest' which returns a list of
files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc.

World Wide Web Sites start at
	 http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/pages.html
(shadow) http://www.Senie.com/billc/lr/pages.html

If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have 
understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

  -B

Back	Forward
Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.