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msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A | 5 | Saw this on rec.autos.antique - cheap LR engine! |
2 | eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heit | 20 | Land Rover Magazines |
3 | Paul Snoek [P.M.A.Snoek@ | 18 | RE: PARTS CATALOGUE |
4 | JDolan2109@aol.com | 22 | Re: Thermo fit... |
5 | "Niel J. P. Fagan" [NF@o | 24 | Re: Free wheel hubs |
6 | RoverNut@aol.com | 26 | electrical rebuilds |
7 | "Mark Gehlhausen" [Gehl@ | 9 | Re: Thermo fit... |
8 | RoverNut@aol.com | 20 | Dissention in the Yanks |
9 | "Mark Gehlhausen" [Gehl@ | 10 | Series Knuckle Busters |
10 | "Mark Gehlhausen" [Gehl@ | 10 | High Parts Cost? |
11 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 62 | Re: Dissention in the Yanks |
12 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 15 | Re: electrical rebuilds |
13 | Tre McCroskey [tmccroske | 6 | Re: Land Rover Magazines |
14 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 30 | Re: High Parts Cost? |
15 | "John J. Tackley" [jtack | 27 | Dual or Single Brake Sys. |
16 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@NR | 34 | Re: High Parts Cost? |
17 | Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D | 17 | Overdrives |
18 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 62 | Re: Dual or Single Brake Sys. |
19 | "John J. Tackley" [jtack | 32 | E-Z Bleed |
20 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 17 | Re: E-Z Bleed |
21 | GElam30092@aol.com | 27 | K&N filters |
22 | "Mark Gehlhausen" [Gehl@ | 16 | High Parts Cost? |
23 | ben@bell-labs.com | 24 | super-coil |
24 | "T. Stevenson" [gbfv08@u | 21 | Re: LRO International |
25 | cascardo@ix.netcom.com ( | 16 | Check Engine light |
26 | Jeremy Bartlett [bartlet | 13 | Re: E-Z Bleed |
27 | M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M | 22 | Re: High Parts Cost? |
28 | "Mark Gehlhausen" [Gehl@ | 15 | Re: EZ Bleed |
29 | David_R@mindspring.com ( | 36 | FINALLY a LRO |
30 | pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa. | 53 | Lancastrians on tour |
31 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 51 | Re: High Parts Cost? |
32 | Chris Brosious [brosious | 33 | Re: New LR sort of |
33 | "Mark Gehlhausen" [Gehl@ | 12 | @Highway Speed? |
34 | ChrisF6724@aol.com | 21 | Re: Free Wheel Hubs |
35 | Faye Ogilvie [ogilvi@hge | 48 | Re: fw hubs, rod knock |
36 | matthew stein [matthew_s | 19 | Rovers |
37 | matthew stein [matthew_s | 19 | Rovers |
38 | Jon Nyhus [bmc@syspac.co | 25 | Range Rover For Sale |
39 | Christopher Dow [dow@the | 12 | Speedo Cable |
40 | Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A | 5 | Re: @Highway Speed? |
41 | CompuServe_Mail [postmas | 8 | Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] |
42 | CompuServe_Mail [postmas | 40 | Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] |
43 | RICK_SNYDER@HP-Andover-o | 16 | Rangie Steering-play |
44 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@NR | 17 | Re: High Parts Cost? |
45 | Harincar@mooregs.com (Ti | 25 | re: Chained again |
46 | AKBLACKLEY@aol.com | 16 | 72 Rangie |
47 | "Boehme, Doug" [dboehme@ | 61 | RE: Fording with the Disco (was: Longer Range Antenna & Door R |
48 | "Tom Rowe" [trowe@aae.wi | 24 | Re: Gasahol - why shouldn't I use it? |
49 | 12/4/95 [rsloan@titan.li | 39 | ice capades |
50 | "Boehme, Doug" [dboehme@ | 55 | RE: ice capades |
51 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 22 | Re: @Highway Speed? |
52 | Sanna@aol.com | 37 | Re: Dissention in the Yanks |
53 | lopezba@atnet.at | 21 | Re: MoT |
54 | lopezba@atnet.at | 21 | Re: FWH's |
55 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 31 | Re[2]: New LR sort of |
56 | Jeffrey A Berg [jeff@pur | 90 | Yankin' the hubs again |
57 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 53 | Re[2]: Dissention in the Yanks |
58 | "Adams, Bill" [badams@us | 21 | Irie good time, mon! |
59 | Kevin Girling [lroshop@i | 14 | LROI |
60 | Jeffrey A Berg [jeff@pur | 30 | Re: FWH's |
61 | Tre McCroskey [tmccroske | 8 | Re: LROI |
62 | faurecm@halcyon.com (C. | 43 | Re: Engaging 4wd on the move |
63 | Mike Johnson [johnsonm@b | 18 | Re: LROI |
64 | "William L. Leacock" [wl | 29 | LRO Magazine. |
65 | "Tom Rowe" [trowe@aae.wi | 26 | Re: LRO Magazine. |
66 | Andrew Howton [andrew_ho | 25 | Rover outing in Alberta |
67 | Kevin Girling [lroshop@i | 16 | Re: LROI |
68 | Kevin Girling [lroshop@i | 18 | Subscription Prices |
69 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 26 | Hotter coils, welded points |
70 | Uncle Roger [sinasohn@cr | 20 | Re: Hand Throttle |
71 | Uncle Roger [sinasohn@cr | 22 | Re: @Highway Speed? |
72 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 19 | LRO |
73 | "Beckett, Ron" [rbeckett | 53 | RE: Purchase of 1990 Defender 90 (NZ)/Diesel Engine Life |
74 | Andrew Howton [andrew_ho | 28 | Rover outing in Alberta |
75 | Wdcockey@aol.com | 24 | Re: Engaging 4X4 on the move (mystery) |
76 | Wdcockey@aol.com | 19 | Prefab Social Circle (AutoWeek Nov 4, 1996) |
77 | landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mi | 14 | Re: Free wheel hubs |
78 | rogers@batnet.com (Jeffr | 7 | NAS Defender 90 Information |
79 | Wdcockey@aol.com | 28 | Replacing brake lines (Re: Dual or Single Brake Sys.) |
80 | "Beckett, Ron" [rbeckett | 67 | RE: Rover FWH |
81 | "Johnny Halverson" [halv | 7 | subscribe |
82 | CompuServe_Mail [postmas | 59 | Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] |
83 | CompuServe_Mail [postmas | 8 | Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] |
84 | CompuServe_Mail [postmas | 8 | Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] |
85 | CompuServe_Mail [postmas | 26 | Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] |
86 | rover1@sky.net (Steve Pa | 16 | Happy B-Day |
87 | CompuServe_Mail [postmas | 30 | Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] |
88 | CompuServe_Mail [postmas | 18 | Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] |
89 | CompuServe_Mail [postmas | 8 | Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] |
90 | CompuServe_Mail [postmas | 8 | Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] |
91 | CompuServe_Mail [postmas | 36 | Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] |
92 | CompuServe_Mail [postmas | 8 | Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] |
93 | CompuServe_Mail [postmas | 8 | Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] |
94 | CompuServe_Mail [postmas | 25 | Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] |
95 | Michael Carradine [cs@cr | 23 | Re: Happy B-Day |
96 | CompuServe_Mail [postmas | 8 | Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] |
97 | twakeman@scruznet.com (T | 18 | Re: High Parts Cost? |
98 | CompuServe_Mail [postmas | 24 | Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] |
99 | Paul Nash [paul@frcs.alt | 18 | Parts Books |
100 | Franz Parzefall [franz@m | 29 | Re: Chained again |
101 | Nathaniel Council [counc | 147 | [Fwd: [Fwd: FWD: Re: AIDS (fwd), it's a school project, send it on. (fwd)]] |
102 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 20 | Re: LROI |
103 | bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Boh | 29 | RE: Purchase of 1990 Defender 90 (NZ)/Diesel Engine Life |
104 | Andy Woodward [azw@aber. | 24 | Re: Engaging 4X4 on the move |
105 | M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M | 29 | Re: Lancastrians on tour |
106 | M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M | 39 | Re[2]: Dissention in the Yanks |
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 30 Oct 96 7:09:48 EST Subject: Saw this on rec.autos.antique - cheap LR engine! ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 07:35:07 -0500 From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite) Subject: Land Rover Magazines Great! The latest LROI just arrived, with lots of American coverage. I am waiting breathlessly for LRW. Now, if the U S and Canadian suppliers would advertise in the Brit rags, we might be able to get them over here more often for this kind of coverage. ;-> _______ |___|__\__== Rabbits exist, hence we can speak meaningfully | _ | | --] about rabbits. Some people attempt <DARWIN>< =(O)-----(O)= to study the evolution of human " " ================ intelligence. We might have a problem there. Ned Heite, town crank, Camden, Delaware 19934 ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 13:42:44 +0100 (MET) From: Paul Snoek <P.M.A.Snoek@net.HCC.nl> Subject: RE: PARTS CATALOGUE >From: Pieter Erasmus >To: 'rro@playground.sun.com' [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)] >Pieter Erasmus >'72 RRC Try Internet address http:www.chariot.co.uk/index.htm (= Homepage) http:www.chariot.co.uk/208.htm (=Roverpage) Email: chariot@cardbox.co.uk Goodluck! P.M.A. Snoek the Netherlands E-mail : P.M.A.Snoek@net.HCC.nl ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: JDolan2109@aol.com Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 08:33:23 -0500 Subject: Re: Thermo fit... Steven Brown was commenting about the fit of his thermostat, the inability of the O-ring to secure it and also the unavailibility of the wax type thermo. What I did in the same situation was trim a piece of radiator hose to the proper length (about 1/8", I seem to remember) and then by adjusting the diameter of the hose by cutting it and removing a small piece, was able to secure the thermostat (basically a generic unit) in place. What you'd be making is a 'spacer'. To cut the hose to such a small dimension, I first fit a piece of PVC pipe in the flexible hose to hold it rigid, then cut it in a mitre box (hand powered of course, this is Vermont). Steve- If you stop by, I'll make you one up, or I might have a later style thermo housing that you can have. This weekend I'm off to Toronto to pull back a P5 behind the '84 RR, so next week or weekend is best. Oh, and it ain't got cold here yet (save that piece of cardboard).... see 'ya on the old road... Jim '61 LR 88" SW w/ 16's, OD 1 Bbl weber (econobox?) "Nicky" LR...quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised! ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Niel J. P. Fagan" <NF@orc.soton.ac.uk> Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 13:32:28 GMT Subject: Re: Free wheel hubs Opinion, (+ personal experience), 1. Fuel econ. about the same (travels faster easier with them un- locked), its speed verses drag = econ improvement. 2. Reduces wear, not if the PO greased the new upper swivels too well, (prat), so the tiny splashes of oil can't get to them (engaged or not no lube. new bearings please). 3. No 4x4 on the move, without pre-planning (if in doubt think slippery, lock them before you need it). As an aside, a French outfit has developed a free-wheeling hub, centre diff locking, front prop shaft disconnect system for the classic Range Rover, supposed to fit Disco's & Defenders to.... >. Rgds Niel Views expressed are personal and not those of the University, unless otherwise & expressly stated. ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: RoverNut@aol.com Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 08:34:20 -0500 Subject: electrical rebuilds My two pence concerning the question about the alternator (and the loss of juice): If you have the slightest suspicion that one of your electrical components is failing, my opinion is: rebuild the sucker ~ finances, of course, permitting. My starter was recently acting weird, so I yanked it out in about 20 minutes, took it to a local motor re-build shop and picked it up the next day (only $75). I would have tried it myself except for two very important reasons a) including labor, it was cheaper to contract it out, and b) Lucas and amateur electricians ~ never the 'tween shall favorably meet. Normally with the Landy I think "ain't broke/don't fix." But one thing is for sure, you can't hand-start an alternator. Even if by rebuilding you fix the problem by simply cleaning all of the parts as you go, you know you've halted a potential failure at all points (HEY! you in the back, stop laughing!)..... a stitch in time and all that rubbish. We Landy owners are rarely the first owners of our vehicles, so this way you are sure of what's been done on your truck. Good luck Alex Maiolo 69 IIa 89 Range Rover ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil> Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 08:38:18 -500 Subject: Re: Thermo fit... I read of a one barrel Weber in use. Tell me more? Was this a factory option? Might someone know the throat size? Mark ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: RoverNut@aol.com Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 08:46:11 -0500 Subject: Dissention in the Yanks I have a 69 IIa without free-hubs. My truck can do over 75 mph (with OD) and cruises comfortably at 62mph (without OD). I have two friends with Series LRs. Both have free-wheeling hubs. My car is faster, gets better gas milage and is just as quiet, if not quieter. I don't think this has anything to do with the fact that I don't have FWH, I think it's because, although we all take really good care of our vehicles, mine was better maintained from the get-go. My experience is: you have nothing to lose or gain by installing FWH. Spend the money elsewhere. Modifications are nice, but don't screw around with something that seems to work fine. Yours, Alex Maiolo 69 IIa 89 Range Rover ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil> Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 08:40:58 -500 Subject: Series Knuckle Busters Are all Series knuclkle busters? Honestly, you can't remember a day when the drivetrain didn't need some work? What engine would you choose for suitable tractability andf reliability? The 2.25 petrol? Mark ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil> Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 08:45:59 -500 Subject: High Parts Cost? I was looking over a RoverLog catalogue and floored by the costs of Series swivel ball and brake rebuild kits. Are all parts this expensive? Holy Cow, these are not Range Rovers!! Please reveal your Series parts source stashes? Mark ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 96 09:32:29 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Subject: Re: Dissention in the Yanks >I have a 69 IIa without free-hubs...snip... I have two friends with ..snip.. >free-wheeling hubs. My car is faster, gets better gas milage >and is just as quiet,...snip... >.. I don't think this has anything to do >with the fact that I don't have FWH, Whats your point then? I think it's because, although we all take really good care of our vehicles, mine was better maintained from the get-go. Oh, I see. makes good sense...so free wheel hubs aren't necessarily a BAD thing... >>My experience is: you have nothing to lose or gain by installing FWH. Doesn't sound like you've tried it. That called experience now, eh? Your truck might be even *faster* and *quieter* with FWH's, ever consider that? Personally the OD was the last attempt to make my truck fast or quiet. Its a LR for chrissake, not a saloon car. >>> Spend the money elsewhere. Modifications are nice, but don't screw around with something that seems to work fine. But I thought you just said... nothing to lose or gain...now it sounds like you are against it... Ok, now Im gonna rant.......... They just don't get it!!!!! . Unfortunately all of our Land Rovers haven't been as well maintained as yours that they can dash up steep grades at 75 mph. I find my truck quieter and a litlle faster with the hubs unlocked. I just put in an OD but I havent tested its limits. so far I can nail 70 on the Speedo but its actually faster since its set for 15" wheels. I don't really feel the need to have the ability to just shift on the fly all the time. There just isn't a need for it where I live unless you are some wanna-be cowboy and you need to run over someones lawn without getting out of your truck first. Its not likely that we'll come across sudden mud bogs in the middle of Arlington VA. Besides if I want the capability, I can just lock my hubs. You on the other hand, have alot more work to do if you dont want the front diff turning...I can just unlock mine "whenever" or "never". The WARN hubs that came with my truck (read FACTORY OPTION) are simple reliable units that don't seem like they would be difficult to fix if something were to go wrong. Bottom line: Instalation of FWH's is not "screwing around" by any means. Its a viable option that increases the versatility of the Land Rover. Just don't forget to lock em once in a while...especially when you are using 4WD...:) All you people who are knocking free wheel hubs are just bummed cos' you aint got em! Don't get excited, Im just giving the guy some grief... Cheers The Freewheelin' Dave B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 96 09:39:34 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Subject: Re: electrical rebuilds My two pence concerning the question about the alternator (and the loss of juice): If you have the slightest suspicion that one of your electrical components is failing, my opinion is: rebuild the sucker ~ Ummm...I think if I did that I'd end up rebuilding ALL of them...:) Cheers Dave B. "Mr. Suspicious" ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 09:52:07 -0500 From: Tre McCroskey <tmccroskey@CENTER.COLGATE.EDU> Subject: Re: Land Rover Magazines what kind of AMerican coverage does it have in LROI? thanks -tre ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 96 09:54:48 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Subject: Re: High Parts Cost? I was looking over a RoverLog catalogue and floored by the costs of Series swivel ball and brake rebuild kits. Are all parts this expensive? Holy Cow, these are not Range Rovers!! Please reveal your Series parts source stashes? Mark Ok, ok, well let you in on the secret! Way up in the backwoods of the Vermont wilderness, there's a place called Rovers North that has ALL the old Land Rover parts left over from the dealerships that closed in the 70's. The parts are still wrapped in the original boxes and wax paper and some of them have never even been seen. In fact, some of them are hermetically sealed inside individual vaccuum packed containers which are then stored in a locked climate controlled vault that can only be accessed by two different people using different keys simultaneously in locks that are on opposite sides of the room. They have new parts too, but the secret is in the old parts that go for less than 1/4 the price of the new parts. These secret parts are reserved for the most dedicated and dyed-in-the-wool Land-Rover owners and enthusiasts. If you call and ask about them they will usually pretend they don't know what you are talking about, but it might be worth a try. Call 1(802)879-0032 and ask Lanny about the secret new-old-stock parts stash. Careful though, don't let on that you know too much or you might find yourself being shadowed by mysterious black Range Rovers 4.6's with tinted windows and funny antennas... Cheers Dave B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "John J. Tackley" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us> Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 11:14:40 -500 Subject: Dual or Single Brake Sys. OK, I need some expert advise, at the risk of starting a thread. Its time to replace brake lines on my '74 88". Presently has a single circuit master cylinder that a PO had swapped in for the dual m/c, (which some say is a more reliable system, albeit prone to complete failure). My current system works great. Firm, full pedal, no fade, no leaks. But the lines are very rusty. Hard to tell 'em apart from the frame, actually and I can't believe they don't leak (and anyone even thinking of suggesting I not fix what ain't broken, forget it). Should I rebuild the current m/c, if retained? What about the 'brass inserts' I've heard about ? Obviously, need to change out the flex lines too, but what about the connecting block(s)? If corroded, wouldn't it make the job easier ? What type of lines ? Steel? Copper ? Pre-bent or make 'em up as I go from the old ones ? Tools needed to fabricate lines ? Bender and flairing tool ? Available as rental tools ? Yadda, yadda.............. So, single ?, or dual ?; that is the main question posed to the collective wisdom resident here. Any comments on the rest of the ?'s graciously accepted. I will advise as to the final decision and reasons why. *** John J. Tackley, Richmond, VA *** * '74 SIII 88" "Gen. P. Lee" * * '81 300SD * * '89 FLHS "OINK" (That'l do, pig) * ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 10:22:30 -0500 (EST) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: Re: High Parts Cost? On Wed, 30 Oct 1996, Bobeck, David R. wrote: > and enthusiasts. If you call and ask about them they will usually > pretend they don't know what you are talking about, but it might be > worth a try. Call 1(802)879-0032 and ask Lanny about the secret > new-old-stock parts stash. Careful Er, Dave, you were not supposed to tell anyone about this... It was the secret of the old-time list people who are in the know. Now you have gone and told the world about this. We will remember this disloyalty... Besides, All Lanny has left are some Lucas tri-polar mount antennas that stick to aluminium, one Sea-Rover conversion kit, some left handed starting cranks (for those living south of the equator. Silly British phlegm-sucking Leyland sending the entire stock to Vermont rather than to South Africa or Australia), Mansfield anti-roll bar kit, and two neutral earth conversion kits that allow you to run both -ve and +ve earth electrics and electronics (very expensive, but I know that you have one in your Land-Rover... Better lock it up now...) at the same time, side by side. (You know the one, the thing that you added so you wouldn't have to change the switches in your LR from the +ve earth type to the -ve earth type when you rebuilt it last year. You didn't understand that the electrons move in different directions, and thus require different switches. Lanny was in a good mood that day. I have tried for years to get one of those conversion kits) Rgds, ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA> Subject: Overdrives Date: Wed, 30 Oct 96 10:24:00 EST >From the recent correspondence it appears that one of the problems with the overdrive is limited oil capacity. Since there is plenty of room around the overdrive why not increase the capacity with a separate reservoir. The oil could even be circulated by a small pump or maybe by suitable location of the supply and return ports the natural circulation could be used. Miss Golightly doesn't have an overdrive but Alex's Series III did and it suffered from the exhaust via the vent hole syndrome. I'm thinking in terms of using the centrifugal action of the gear cluster to pump fluid to the reservoir from whence it returns by gravity. Since many NA Landies spend time cruising on Interstates the additional oil capacity should help a lot with cooling and oil preservation. ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 96 10:31:16 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Subject: Re: Dual or Single Brake Sys. >>> But the lines are very rusty. Hard to tell 'em apart from the frame, Strip the body off so you can undo some of the rust on the frame...and make putting the lines alot easier. >>> Should I rebuild the current m/c, if retained? why, if it works? Personally i'd want the dual system... >>> What about the 'brass inserts' I've heard about ? like cylinder liners? How much does that cost? >>>Obviously, need to change out the flex lines too, but what about the connecting block(s)? flex lines yes, just dont buy $20 dollar ones from RN. get em from DAP or BP, and save 1/2 price. Connecting blocks no, they can be cleaned up good since they are brass. >>>What type of lines ? Steel >>>Steel? Yes, they have a nice coating on them to keep em from rusting (haha). also you can paint em or hit em with Waxoyl >>> Pre-bent or make 'em up as I go from the old ones ? Make em up as you go. I don't know any source for pre bent brake lines. Using the old ones as a pattern would have been nice but there weren't any old ones left on mine, just PO stuff. >>>Tools needed to fabricate lines ? Bender, flaring tool if you're actually going to make them yourself (id just buy the appropriate lines) benders aren't that expensive. Pencil, tape measure, lots of patience. Flare nut wrenches nice too. >>>So, single ?, or dual ? Well, if its a single system and everithings new and well maintained, then you oughtta be alright. I still like the dual sytem, they seem to work better. The servo is a big player in that game. Good luck, may the wind be at your breakfast and the gods of inertia be on your side Dave B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "John J. Tackley" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us> Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 11:30:54 -500 Subject: E-Z Bleed Anyone familiar with the EZ-Bleed brake bleeder ? FWIW, it's a brake fluid bottle to which air pressure is applied, usually at @20 lbs., from a spare tire. Has a connecting hose and a temporary fluid resevoir cap that connects to the pressurized bottle. After connection, simply release the wheel cylinders one-at-a-time and the pressure pushes new fluid thru the system. A simple, one person method of both bleeding and changing out brake fluid completely. Just keep the pressurized bottle topped up. The E-Z Bleed is available from Auto Expert at 800-795-6958, for $35, COD only, no credit cards accepted. It comes with several resevoir caps to fit a variety of vehicles,( for instance all German vehicles are covered) with the caps supplied, as well as the Series LRs. It comes highly recommended from a respected Tech Committee Engineer from Mercedes Benz Club of America (MBCA). Just wondering if the Lucas 'FM' might spill over to the brake system of LRs, preventing the application of logic and common sense, and this tool. So, has anyone used this tool successfully with a Series LR ? Just curious. It would help after replacing those brake lines. I have no connection to Auto Expert, BTW. I'm waiting for some lit. from Auto Expert, and will post it to the List. L8r. *** John J. Tackley, Richmond, VA *** * '74 SIII 88" "Gen. P. Lee" * * '81 300SD * * '89 FLHS "OINK" (That'l do, pig) * ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: E-Z Bleed Date: Wed, 30 Oct 96 15:39:11 GMT > Anyone familiar with the EZ-Bleed brake bleeder ? FWIW, it's a Yes > So, has anyone used this tool successfully with a Series LR ? Its the dogs bollocks! (as they say in the Land of Rover). You may find you need a little bit of tubing to direct the brake fluid from the bleed nipple into a suitable container (I have the screw kind). Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: GElam30092@aol.com Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 10:41:40 -0500 Subject: K&N filters John Tackey writes "K&N filters last forever. They are washable. <snip> If your filter was physically damaged, obviously it would need to be replaced, but that is the only reason I can think of for doing so." I agree but since this is a new (to me) vehicle, I wanted to establish a maintenance baseline but changing all the fluids & filters along with checking the brakes. I have absolutely no idea when any of this was done. The filter that I changed wasn't damaged but I had doubts if it would come clean. Changing it gives me a chance to start fresh. Ounce of prevention or waste of money? As bad as it looked, I prefer the prior. Steve: did your AZ adoptees arrive yet? What color is the Flagstaff vehicle? James Howard is wondering how he missed it! Cheers.. Gerry Elam PHX AZ '96 Disco "Great White" '64 Series IIA " Soldado Sangrando" ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil> Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 10:45:49 -500 Subject: High Parts Cost? Dave, I just returned from a summer in Maine. Visited East Coast Rover in Warren and came away believing I could never afford a LR. All the while, so close and yet so far away. I will keep my old Scout on guard for the black Range Rover, but where I live, RRs never tread. I have looked at a number of Series 11A 109s, but the cost of making them reliable scares me. Then I go to the corner AutoZone for International parts and stuff is so cheap. BTW, I enjoyed your comments on hubs. I have a set of manual Warn hubs on the Scout and I love them. But then, mud never bothers me. Mark ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ben@bell-labs.com Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 11:03:08 -0500 Subject: super-coil Greg Moore wrote: Yesterday I installed an Accel 'supercoil' I had laying around from a previous project. I put a ballast resistor on the positive side to cut the voltage but apparently that wasn't enough. One trip around the block and the points were welded. Does anyone know how much resistance I will need in order to run the supercoil? ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ better you than me.. sorry. I replaced the coil this past WE, and came *this* close to plopping the accel on, good thing I was too lazy to make up a bracket for it.. I dunno, I don't think you can really reduce the voltage or current output by a (reasonable) ballast resistor. I'd get a basic $10 round coil, or get a little solid-state relay that will just use the points for switching. I think JCW sells them for $10-15. Then you can use the new Accel 10MV flux capacitor to light up the mixture... rgds ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 16:10:44 GMT From: "T. Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk> Subject: Re: LRO International >> >My wife, a secondary school teacher (pupils are aged 12-18 yrs), managed >> >to convince some 14yr-olds that Yorkshire was part of Scotland - [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] >really are a different race of people - there are no folk like the Yorkshire >folk. I have heard tell that a Yorkshireman is basically the same as a Scotsman, but with all the financial imprudence squeezed out. Now where did I put my red rose? Tom ________________________________________________________________________ Thomas D.I. Stevenson gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk SNL Mussel Project Tel: 01475 530581 University Marine Biological Station, Millport Fax: 01475 530601 Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland KA28 OEG http://www.gla.ac.uk/Acad/Marine ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 08:28:27 -0800 From: cascardo@ix.netcom.com (Lucas Andres Cascardo) Subject: Check Engine light What does the Check Engine light exactly indicate on a D90 '95. In the manual it says it could either be a problem with the electronic fuel injection or the exhaust system? How does it monitor both? Reason asking is that mine lit up and after about 10 min the car started billowing white smoke from the exhaust and I could not accelerate, driving slow I made it to the dealer. Surprisingly, the car did not stop. God I hope this isn't going to cost me....... Lucas C. ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 09:26:47 -0800 From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Subject: Re: E-Z Bleed John J. Tackley wrote: > So, has anyone used this tool successfully with a Series LR ? Yes and I'd recommend it. cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 16:50:13 +0000 From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Subject: Re: High Parts Cost? > Besides, All Lanny has left are some Lucas tri-polar mount antennas > that stick to aluminium, one Sea-Rover conversion kit, some left > handed starting cranks (for those living south of the equator. > Silly British phlegm-sucking Leyland sending the entire stock to > Vermont rather than to South Africa or Australia), Doesnt matter now Dixon.He cant sell them.What I heard was that the Land Rover Thought Police,whilst checking on the legitimate use of the logo,said that if any were found to be sold,the guilty party would *have* to display the British Leyland logo with *equal prominence* outside their premises.Which as we all know is instant death(well,a lingering one,anyway) to any business.As well as giving rise to lots of time wasting queries from *very* odd people about spare parts for er..Austin Allegro's. Mike Rooth (And I really wanted that built for SAS water soluble Pink Porpoise propeller). ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil> Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 11:49:23 -500 Subject: Re: EZ Bleed >From your original description, it sounds like the EZ Bleed pressurizes the reservoir from a full tin of brake fluid via spare tire. Does the MC reservoir overflow make a mess when removing the lid after bleeding? I have always simply opened the wheel cylinder and slipped on a plastic hose and empty tin. I pump the pedal until clear fluid flows generously. With the hose curved upward, I can inspect and retain a column of good fluid. I close off the cylinder and go to the next. Is there a better method? Is my method OK? I really am describing how I do it. Honest. M ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 11:59:20 -0500 From: David_R@mindspring.com (David Russell) Subject: FINALLY a LRO I'm a *REAL* LRO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Last night a 1969 Series IIA SW, #24435855F was deliverd to my door here in Rockville, MD. The short version (the long version and pictures will be available at http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r) of the story is: My wife made me buy this vehicle from it's second owner who is now 80 yrs old. It certainly looks like it's only got 43,000 miles on it. The interior is perfect, the exterior is almost perfect (except the dent in the roof courtesy the transport company), all of the electrics work, except the interior dome light, the engine starts and purrs like only a Rover can, the brakes do not work and the frame turns to powder when you look at it. I've got a replacement frame waiting for me to pick up and factory manuals in the post. The sellers agent, Bryan Davies of the Classic Rover, (see: the above URL) thinks the engine has never been worked on and recommended replacing the clutch because of age. Any comments? Also on the agenda: New axles (per TeriAnn's recent reccomendation) New or rebuilt springs New tires, new fluids, the basics, etc. Am I forgetting anything? With luck, we'll make it to Maine next year. I'll be updating my progress at the above URL and undoubtedly asking for more help from the list. Am I excited?!?! David 1969 Series IIA p.s.: I need a name for the Rover. p.p.s.: anyone want a 1977 T*y*ta Land Cru**** ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 18:07:25 +0200 From: pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield - System Manager (SERCO) X492) Subject: Lancastrians on tour Hi people Subject: Re: LRO International >>> More UK content! :-) >> More Scottish content!! :-} More Euro content for the Euro-boys oh, sorry, I don't get it anymore here :-( Subject: Re: Free wheel hubs I've got 'em and I love 'em but it's damn hard making the gasket that fits between the ally bit and the hub, the ones I got from my local LR bits shop were wrong. Ball pein hammer for 20 Mins was preferable to the 20 mile drive. For my next trick, a head gasket fashioned from a sheet of annealed copper..... Re: Yorkshiremen I'm a Lancashire man myself, that's even further from Scotland on my map (Cumbria gets in the way) Re: MOT's Mike rants: > The tests are run by *private* licensed garages, with no guarantee that the > so-called mechanic that is giving you the benefit of his expert opinion can > even *read*. Come on Mike, there are _some_ duff testers out there, but they have all had to pass the DOT course to say they can test vehicles. This privilege can be revoked if they let a death trap back on the road. (Even though the test certificate only certifies the condition of the vehicle at the precise moment of the test) Personally, I'm quite happy about the MOT, I'm not happy about the licence to print money it gives some (unscrupulous) garages. Subject: Steering Relay Franz says: > I'm pretty sure, that this won't get the 90w were it should (at least if you > don't wait a long time) There is no other easy option on the later type, so it's best to crank out the bolts (2) & syringe it in through one hole. I didn't have a syringe, hence having to drip in EP90 for about 1/2 hour. Cheers, Paul. ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 96 12:10:48 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Subject: Re: High Parts Cost? Dave, I just returned from a summer in Maine. Visited East Coast Rover in Warren and came away believing I could never afford a LR. Afford? None of us can afford them! Its just not an issue...I was stupid enough to add up my receipts...over 10K invested now...but it's going to drive into the next millenium... All the while, so close and yet so far away. I will keep my old Scout on guard for the black Range Rover, but where I live, RRs never tread. I have looked at a number of Series 11A 109s, but the cost of making them reliable scares me. It's not that hard to do one on a shoestring budget, and its still going to be cheaper than a new truck of more questionable quality or longevity than a newer truck of different manufacture. Key to saving money is doing everything yourself and shopping around for parts. I could have saved a bundle by getting parts from the UK, but I was sort of in a hurry and hadn't tried it yet, so i just went with the guys that i knew would get me my parts in two days or so... Hence the 10K cost. Also key is really doing a thorough inspection of the truck to determine its real value. Value in my opinion is average market price minus estimated repair costs. My rover was about $1500 over what it turned out to be worth. Some stuff is hard to tell, systems that worked fine when I got it quickly went south for the winter. I would suggest going wth someone who realy knows Rovers and has done a frame off or frame over restoration. They are the people that have been there and done that and they will better be able to see beneath the surface rust...I think most Rovers that are sold as "restored" by individuals who do that for a living are going to end up being the worst value. Maybe some of the more reputable larger companies put out a better product, I've seen some really nice trucks from EC Rover and Roverworks(defunct don't go there)...Better off buying one that was restored by somebody like me who intended to use it as a daily driver, not to just turn around and sell it. Otherwise get a middle of the road(4-6K) rover that needs work but has a decent frame and firewall, or a complete basket case that needs frame and everything.($500-1000). >>>Then I go to the corner AutoZone for International parts and stuff is so cheap. yeah but you don't have a really cool British Land Rover. Part of the fun is making the guys at Auto Zone look up parts that you know they wont have... Good luck... Dave B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 10:28:22 -0700 From: Chris Brosious <brosious@pogo.den.mmc.com> Subject: Re: New LR sort of Nate Dunsmore writes: >>Hi all, >>Just purchased a new LR for rebuild, a SIII 88". It reportedly hasn't >>run for a year. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >>before trying to start it up. Any suggestions on other things to do >>before firing it up? Nate, once you get all the old fluids out of the motor and the new ones in, take all of the plugs out and put normal engine oil into each plug hole, after all 8 have their share, crank the engine by hand about a dozen rev's or so. Use a suitable wrench on the crank bolt, and don't be afraid to really 'bear down' it. Turning it over by hand will loosen it up and let the starter have an easire time of it. Turning it over a dozen times or so really works the oil around and empties the cylinders (which you just filled). If its hard to turn by hand, sometimes letting it sit for a bit to let the oil soak down in and around the pistons will help. If it sits over night after you put the oil in and still won't turn, it siezed up good - bummer. Also, make sure the water pump turns freely, its bearing may have siezed up as well. Good Luck Chris Brosious '94 D90 ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil> Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 12:20:42 -500 Subject: @Highway Speed? Dave, You're right about the obscure part search being more fun. But can you really use a 11A everyday and drive faster than 60 mph? I saw a HMN ad for 100 mph LRs? Has one ever gone that fast? I also saw a photo of a 11A 109 towing a 105 howitzer. What engine would that vehicle have? Do you find that LRs cost you lots of girlfriends? M ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ChrisF6724@aol.com Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 12:39:22 -0500 Subject: Re: Free Wheel Hubs >>I don't live in the flatlands anymore. No locked hubs = no parking brake or gearbox resistance<< You can buy and install a brake lock. They are mainly used by drag racers so they can lock the front and "burn out" the rear (which of course applies just as well to a Land Rover ;-0 ) What they do is basically lock the pressure lines going to your brakes. This would be a effective emergency brake when the drivetrain is not "hooked up". I'm probably installing them in my hybrid instead of a proper emergency brake (room is tight cause it's not a Rover tranny). The brake locks will work as long as your brake system doesn't leak and is in good working condition... I also believe the lock can be keyed so it can also be used a theft deterent. Try dragging around a Rover with all four tires firmly locked up :-) Chris Fisher '73 Land Rover 88 Series III hybrid (still in the shop, sigh .... ) ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 07:47:03 -1000 From: Faye Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org> Subject: Re: fw hubs, rod knock IMHO free wheeling hubs make no difference. I have a set of Faerie hubs and have used them on a 109 and 88 with no effect on performance or gas mileage. The 109 had a very sick engine and would barely climb a certain hill in 4th gear. Made no difference with the hubs engaged or not. Feel I would have felt the effect of even a single horsepower difference as such a small factor as rain was the difference between 3rd or 4th gear. Checked the mileage engaged and disengaged on both lrs with no discernable difference. The individual that claims the hubs paid for themselves in two months is defying the laws of economics. If hubs doubled your mileage they might have a chance of paying for themselves in a couple of months. I don't think even Warn or other hub manufactures would claim more than 10% improvement. Even using that doubtful figure it would take more than a year before they repaid their cost, not to mention labor to install. Engine rattle on startup: The above 109 had the rod knock when started but went away as soon as oil pressure showed on the gauge. Oil pressure was normal when warm, something like 50psi. I had never driven a 109, so assumed its subtle lack of pep compared to my 88 was due to the weight of the 109. No other indications of advanced geriatric disorders. I decided to check the bearings when I took the transmission out for some work. The supposedly rebuilt engine had virtually no bearing material left and the crank was already scored. It was a hearbeat away from spewing its guts all over the highway. Low oil pressure may be an indication of a worn engine but then again may not. The rod knock, when there is no or low oil pressure, is a much surer indication that death is imminent. I had an MGA back in the 60's. It had good oil pressure at start up but slowly dropped to 10-15 psi as it warmed up. It started doing this overnight with no other signs that anything was wrong with the engine. Took it to the local dealer who immediately diagnosed a rebuild. Decided to sit on it as I was a poor college student who couldn't afford the car, let alone an engine rebuild. Ran into the mechanic who worked for the dealer in a bar that same night. He told me it was probably the oil pressure relief valve sticking full open. Said it was very common and was a source of great profit for the dealer. He fixed it in the parking lot of the bar in a few minutes for a couple of beers. Ever wonder why the British car industry nearly became extinct? Aloha Peter Ogilvie 1970 '88' 1965 '109' ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 96 12:52:20 -0500 From: matthew stein <matthew_stein@gw.proctor.pvt.k12.nh.us> Subject: Rovers Two questions... How could I get one of the Limited Edition Rovers...one of the last 25 classics made? Is there a way to boost the pick up on my '91 GDE Rover? Thanks, Matthew -- -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- Sent via ExpressNet/SMTP(tm), Internet Gateway of the Gods! ExpressNet/SMTP (c)1994-95 Delphic Software, Inc. -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 96 12:54:15 -0500 From: matthew stein <matthew_stein@gw.proctor.pvt.k12.nh.us> Subject: Rovers Two questions... How could I get one of the Limited Edition Rovers...one of the last 25 classics made? Is there a way to boost the pick up on my '91 GDE Rover? Thanks, Matthew -- -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- Sent via ExpressNet/SMTP(tm), Internet Gateway of the Gods! ExpressNet/SMTP (c)1994-95 Delphic Software, Inc. -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 10:59:42 -0700 From: Jon Nyhus <bmc@syspac.com> Subject: Range Rover For Sale I am selling my 1991 Range Rover, County SE. This vehicle is Black and has the Grey interior in it. It has the Dog Guard and the "Scottsdale Cart Guard" on the front. It has a new ABS pump and brake pads all the way around. It has new power steering pump, steering box and hoses fitted. The front and rear suspension mounts have all been changed out. The interior is in good shape with no tears or cracks in the leather. It has the Pioneer sound system with the six pack CD player in the rear. It also has memory controled driver seat, for different drivers each having their own postions. And It has never been smoked it. This vehicle is a Land Rover Ex-Test vehicle that I purchased from the Hot Enviromental Test Base here in Phoenix. I have the papers to prove that it was part of Land Rover History. I am asking $16,500.00 for it. If interested please e-mail me at address above or call me at work, 602.995.2028. Regards, Jon ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 10:01:36 -0800 From: Christopher Dow <dow@thelen.org> Subject: Speedo Cable What can I say? I goofed. While taking off and putting on and taking off and putting on the instrument panel during my rewiring, I was hasty. I didn't always disconnect the speedo cable. Guess what? It's buggered. Does anyone know if I have to have a special Rover cable, or can I use one of the 'universal speedo cable' thingies at the local parts shop? C ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 30 Oct 96 13:03:47 EST Subject: Re: @Highway Speed? ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 11:01:42 -0500 From: CompuServe_Mail <postmaster@compuserve.com> Subject: Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] Message "Re: High Parts Cost?", sent at 10:27 EST on 30-Oct-96, could not be delivered to [106344,3302] at 11:01 EST on 30-Oct-96 because the recipient mailbox is full. ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 11:01:42 -0500 From: CompuServe_Mail <postmaster@compuserve.com> Subject: Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] id JAA09692; Wed, 30 Oct 1996 09:58:39 -0500 id GAA18592; Wed, 30 Oct 1996 06:51:11 -0800 Date: Wed, 30 Oct 96 09:54:48 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> X-To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com Subject: Re: High Parts Cost? X-edited-by: LRO-Lite Message-ID: <bulk.18571.19961030065050@Land-Rover.Team.Net> I was looking over a RoverLog catalogue and floored by the costs of Series swivel ball and brake rebuild kits. Are all parts this expensive? Holy Cow, these are not Range Rovers!! Please reveal your Series parts source stashes? Mark Ok, ok, well let you in on the secret! Way up in the backwoods of the Vermont wilderness, there's a place called Rovers North that has ALL the old Land Rover parts left over from the dealerships that closed in the 70's. The parts are still wrapped in the original boxes and wax paper and some of them have never even been seen. In fact, some of them are hermetically sealed inside individual vaccuum packed containers which are then stored in a locked climate controlled vault that can only be accessed by two different people using different keys simultaneously in locks that are on opposite sides of the room. They have new parts too, but the secret is in the old parts that go for less than 1/4 the price of the new parts. These secret parts are reserved for the most dedicated and dyed-in-the-wool Land-Rover owners and enthusiasts. If you call and ask about them they will usually pretend they don't know what you are talking about, but it might be worth a try. Call 1(802)879-0032 and ask Lanny about the secret new-old-stock parts stash. Careful though, don't let on that you know too much or you might find yourself being shadowed by mysterious black Range Rovers 4.6's with tinted windows and funny antennas... Cheers Dave B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: RICK_SNYDER@HP-Andover-om3.om.hp.com Date: Wed, 30 Oct 96 11:13:12 -0700 Subject: Rangie Steering-play Item Subject: cc:Mail Text At first I thought it was me, or the wind, but now I'm sure that the steering in my Rangie has gone sloppy. In my IIA, there is an adjustment on the steering box that tightens up the steering play quite nicely - is there such an adjustment on the '91 Range Rover steering box? Has anybody else experienced this problem? Rick Snyder '91 RR '71 IIA ------------------------------[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 13:25:40 -0500 (EST) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: Re: High Parts Cost? On Wed, 30 Oct 1996, Mike Rooth wrote: > of time wasting queries from *very* odd people about spare parts for > er..Austin Allegro's. Allegro's? That can be handled fairly easily. It is those after Marina parts that have to be watched. > (And I really wanted that built for SAS water soluble Pink Porpoise > propeller). Me too... ------------------------------[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS) Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 12:27:41 -0600 Subject: re: Chained again Re: ice & snow driving LRs, or at least mine in my experience, are technically 'loose' as NASCAR drivers would say. What that means is that they have a tendancy to want to swap ends on greasy surfaces, like ice. Adding a couple hundred pounds of sand in the back would help some, but being in 4 wheel drive or not won't make a whit of difference. Chains would help in those situations just by virtue of biting into the ice and preventing sideways motion, so would a good tire (Trak Edge?). Someone once told me that winter driving success (or lack thereof) can be attributed as follows: 50% tire, 25% vehicle and 25% driver skill. Tim --- tim harincar harincar@mooregs.com '66 IIa 88 SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 13:31:50 -0500 Subject: 72 Rangie Ian: If that RR is truly "refurbished" and the price is $CAN I 'd say its worth it. I love my '83 RR it far more practical and more off road capable than my old SII A but it does lack the character. I think the early 2 dr. RR are true classics. Look for the obvoius stuff ( if you subscribe to LROI there have been numerous buyers guides). Look and listen for engine/lifter noise, signs of overheating, rear main leaks, too much noise in the gearbox, leaky swivels etc. The worth of any vehicle is subjective but ask yourself what else could you find that will do the same things for the money, and how much would you havre spent if you had done the refurbishing. Please feel free to contact me if I can help. Cheers. Andy Blackley, fellow TARC member. ------------------------------[ <- Message 47 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@bestinforsg.com> Subject: RE: Fording with the Disco (was: Longer Range Antenna & Door R Date: Wed, 30 Oct 96 14:31:00 PST I had heard that on the new Land Rovers, extending the axle vents wasn't needed... Or does that just apply to the D90? Douglas Boehme '95 Red D90 #2767 ---------- From: Bob Watson[SMTP:bobw@microsoft.com] Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 1996 10:08 AM Subject: RE: Fording with the Disco (was: Longer Range Antenna & Door Rattle) One word of caution to a new Disco owner such as yourself WRT fording. The rear axle vents just below the rear floor board and as such is suceptible to water ingestion when fording water over the hubs. If you plan on making a habit of fording (and who doesn't :-) you should extend the axle vents to "higher ground" and/or get into the habit of frequently checking the axle oil for water contamination after each fording adventure. The axle seals are another place that can allow water to come in to the axle oil. In brief summary: For water at or below the hubs, you should be ok as is For water above hubs, but below the top of the bumper, make sure you have a good bow wave and a steady speed. For water above the top of the bumper, then you'll probably have to take more drastic measures (like an alternate route) or: cover the radiator opening (front grille) raise the axle vents maintain a good bow wave & steady speed hope you don't get stopped/stuck in the middle (or you'll be bailing) Happy trails! -- Bob W. >------------------------------ >Subject: Longer Range Antenna & Door Rattle >Date: Tue, 29 Oct 96 16:23:28 -0600 >From: "Keith W. Cooper" <kwcooper@aristotle.net> <snip> >P.S. We had some flooding rains in my area over the last two days and I >took advantage of this last evening and ventured into some very deep mud >From: "Keith W. Cooper" <kwcooper@aristotle.net> >puddles - WOW, did the Disco ever perform! Some of these were muddy bogs >that I never would have tackled in another 4x4, but the Disco never >skipped a beat!! Its this fact that makes me not mind the little quirks >with my Disco. >Go Land Rover!! [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] >Little Rock, AR >kwcooper@aristotle.net ------------------------------[ <- Message 48 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu> Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 13:45:33 +0000 Subject: Re: Gasahol - why shouldn't I use it? > Ahhhh! Now you've got me worried. I have been using it for some months now in my 1971 Hillman with no problems (as yet. I bought the Hillman new so I know how it has been treated). The car doesn't have a fuel filter apart from the one in the mechanical fuel > pump and it looks OK. - Sorry. Either ignore what I wrote, or put in a good filter/sedment collector like Racor. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research Madison,WI, USA 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@aae.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 49 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 14:49:35 -0500 (EST) From: 12/4/95 <rsloan@titan.liunet.edu> Subject: ice capades Paul asked for the experiences of list members driving rovers in snowy/icy conditions, so here's my two cents... My D90 has performed quite admirably in heavy snows, in fact, pulling me through two major storms that stopped most other traffic dead in their tracks. The only person joining me on the road was a hummer, who was driving too fast and floated all over the road, so I let him pass. I am a volunteer driver for hospital staff during heavy snows, so I have some experience driving in snow and ice, I'm also an avid snowboarder, and the most important thing about driving in snow and ice (and one of my personal pet peeves) is that just because you have 4 wheel drive don't think you can drive "normally" in snow and ice. I can't tell you how many times I've seen these yutzes driving their trucks like there's nothing on the ground. They are a bigger risk than the weather, in my opinion. Here's the deal, depending on your tires, speed = a tendency to float, floating can be fun if there's nobody around and you are in a field, but otherwise should be avoided. Braking is obviously affected, and the transmission should be employed here as much as possible. Loss of traction is what you're worried about, because that's when you go out of control. Ice is a different animal, if you lose traction on a sheet of ice avoid making sudden movements, avoid stomping on the brakes, then pray. Other than that, I've found my rover to be quite an acceptable means of transport in hazardous winter conditions, I've gotten through to nurses and doctors where j**ps and toys could not, that's not bragging, that's a fact. (now, about those patients...any old LR ambulances in Long Island?) excitedly anticipating old man winter, Rich D90 #2948 ------------------------------[ <- Message 50 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@bestinforsg.com> Subject: RE: ice capades Date: Wed, 30 Oct 96 15:31:00 PST It's funny that you should mention a Hummer driving like a Yutz. During our big storm last year (Philadelphia, PA - 2 ft) some butt-munch in a Hummer went flying right by me, and right in front of my very eyes, plowed into a snow drift and couldn't get out. Well, being a nice guy, I beeped at him and asked him if he needed help. He must have been embarrassed because he gave the international sign for touch-down and told me to f*** off. Equally looking forward to old-man-winter, Douglas Boehme '95 Red D90 #2767 Paul asked for the experiences of list members driving rovers in snowy/icy conditions, so here's my two cents... My D90 has performed quite admirably in heavy snows, in fact, pulling me through two major storms that stopped most other traffic dead in their tracks. The only person joining me on the road was a hummer, who was driving too fast and floated all over the road, so I let him pass. I am a volunteer driver for hospital staff during heavy snows, so I have some experience driving in snow and ice, I'm also an avid snowboarder, and the most important thing about driving in snow and ice (and one of my personal pet peeves) is that just because you have 4 wheel drive don't think you can drive "normally" in snow and ice. I can't tell you how many times I've seen these yutzes driving their trucks like there's nothing on the ground. They are a bigger risk than the weather, in my opinion. Here's the deal, depending on your tires, speed = a tendency to float, floating can be fun if there's nobody around and you are in a field, but otherwise should be avoided. Braking is obviously affected, and the transmission should be employed here as much as possible. Loss of traction is what you're worried about, because that's when you go out of control. Ice is a different animal, if you lose traction on a sheet of ice avoid making sudden movements, avoid stomping on the brakes, then pray. Other than that, I've found my rover to be quite an acceptable means of transport in hazardous winter conditions, I've gotten through to nurses and doctors where j**ps and toys could not, that's not bragging, that's a fact. (now, about those patients...any old LR ambulances in Long Island?) excitedly anticipating old man winter, Rich D90 #2948 ------------------------------[ <- Message 51 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 96 15:46:58 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Subject: Re: @Highway Speed? >Dave, >You're right about the obscure part search being more fun. But can >you really use a 11A everyday and drive faster than 60 mph? I saw a >HMN ad for 100 mph LRs? Has one ever gone that fast? ...snip... > Do you find that LRs cost you lots of girlfriends? M No, more so that a girlfriend costs me a lot of Land Rovers. Rob David in VA has made 100mph+ Rovers using marine engines. Pretty neat, not for the faint of heart or thin of wallet. Robert generally does a good job of making things work. Yes you can drive a LR more than 60 mph everyday if its running well, you just need to tune it up and stay on top of it a little more than usual. Also for lots of long trips at 60+mph an overdrive will put your engine into a more suitable range of rpms...and also i think you will find that you will burn valves faster, especially without and OD. A valve job with hrdened exhaust valves and seats will remedy this problem. ------------------------------[ <- Message 52 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Sanna@aol.com Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 16:01:52 -0500 Subject: Re: Dissention in the Yanks >I don't really feel the need to have the ability to just >shift on the fly all the time. There just isn't a need for it where I live [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] >sudden mud bogs in the middle of Arlington VA. >Its a viable option that increases the versatility of the Land Rover. Just don't >forget to lock em once in a while...especially when you are using 4WD...:) > All you people who are knocking free wheel hubs are just bummed cos' you >aint got em! ...and don't want them. I bought my IIa brand spankin' new in 1970, and drove her as a "working Rover" for the first ten years (constant off-road/no-road, income producing means of transportation). I bought her without hubs, because NONE of the Land Rovers at that time were imported with FW hubs, factory option or not. Lulubelle is now almost 27 years old and has traveled 1/3 million miles, and while I've repaired, replaced, or serviced almost every square inch of the car, the front end is still 100% "factory". ...And unlike you 4WD "hobbyists" exploring the trackless wilderness of Arlington, VA, being able to shift-on-the-fly 4WD was a real and much used advantage in the bush. I just don't agree with your position that hubs are "a viable option that increases the versatility of the Land Rover". In the enviorment that the LR was designed for, they do just the opposite. Anthony R. Sanna SACO Foods, Inc. Middleton, WI 53562 1-800-373-7226 ------------------------------[ <- Message 53 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 22:04:41 +0100 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: Re: MoT Doug Boehme asked the >Stupid question #1: What is an MOT (in England)? Well, you have gotten explanations. I think the US has something similar in most states. So the MoT is more or less the same as the TUEV in Germany, and the so-called Pickerl in Austria. Far from the inspections in Japan, which cost about 2,500 USD for a five-year old vehicle, which wipes most of those off the road and provides the Japanese automakers with a very sound home market (and lots of scrap to melt for new cars)! At least in Austria this has taken a lot of wrecks off the roads and has made life a little safer and the air a little less polluted. Regards Peter Hirsch SI 107in S/W Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1) ------------------------------[ <- Message 54 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 22:04:44 +0100 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: Re: FWH's Jeffrey Berg says >I'm even thinking about bolting a set of free wheeling hubs on the rear to >make flat towing the beast a little easier and less stressul on the drive >train. Different strokes I guess. This also seems to be a good anti-theft device - disengaging all four fwh's, I mean. The problem then is that you nothing except its own weight, and maybe the curb, will hold the vehicle when you park it. Disengaging rear fwh's while you are driving does not increase fuel efficiency any further, btw. Regards Peter Hirsch SI 107in S/W Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1) ------------------------------[ <- Message 55 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 96 16:14:49 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Subject: Re[2]: New LR sort of Nate Dunsmore writes: Nate's trying to start an old SIII... Chris Brosius writes >take all of the plugs out and put normal engine oil into each plug hole, >after all 8 have their share, crank the engine by hand about a dozen >rev's or so. Use a suitable wrench on the crank bolt, OY VEY, these coil spring guys... FYI, SIII's are usually fitted with the good old brick shithouse 2.25 four banger. Unless of course one of those SIII's is a stage one...c'mon now Nate, fess up ol' boy...:-) Also the "crank bolt" is one of the unpleasantries of life that us Series owners needn't bother with. We just get out our handcranks (left or right hand depending on which hemisphere you're in, since engines run counterclockwise in the southern half of the globe) and start spinning away. Unless of course you are like me and you bought a Gigantic Winch That Would Surely Pull Your Vehicle >From The Depths Of The LaBrea Tar Pits If You Weren't Afraid Of Draining Your Battery Or Forcibly Removing Your Front Bumper, and mounted it using the bent up hacked excuse for a bumper that came with it which also happens to block the hole for the crank. Also I understand Ned Heite is the town crank of Camden DE, he would probably be happy to crank your engine for you... Cheers Dave B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 56 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 16:34:44 -0500 From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com> Subject: Yankin' the hubs again Peter Ogilvie comments: >IMHO free wheeling hubs make no difference. I have a set of Faerie hubs and >have used them on a 109 and 88 with no effect on performance or gas mileage. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] >factor as rain was the difference between 3rd or 4th gear. Checked the >mileage engaged and disengaged on both lrs with no discernable difference. As you admit that you had a "sick" engine to begin with, I respectfully submit that your findings are questionable. If you can't build the momentum to begin with then I would agree, hubs locked or unlocked are of minimal consequence. Same for gas mileage -- we're talking modest improvements, which I'm sure could be easily offset by an improperly tuned, or otherwise flawed, engine. No one (I hope) has claimed an increase in horsepower due to the unlocking of free wheeled hubs. Horsepower is a constant in this system: a measurement of power -- the rate of work -- your engine is capable of producing. What we're talking about is the drivetrain's efficiency -- the ratio of useful energy output to energy input. Actually, we're not really dealing with efficiency's internal to the drivetrain system itself, because once you've disengaged 4WD, you're no longer putting drivetrain power through the front propshaft and differential anyway. We have to look then to an external force that affects the system-- the coefficient of friction. By not having to turn the differential and prop shaft (through the wheels) you reduce friction which prevents that system from doing it's job -- moving the car. All other things being equal, the less the force working against the system, the more efficient it is. There should be no doubts that this is all true. The real question is whether there is any noticeable real world effect or if it's just something that we could design a bunch of experiments to measure and prove. I find that unlocking the hubs provides subtle, but useful, benefits under some conditions. I find a definite difference in being able to *maintain* speed, especially while climbing steep grades, while the hubs are disengaged. I attribute this to decreased rolling resistance -- a reduction of friction. I lay no claim to being able to start from standing still and climb faster. However, when starting up a hill at 60MPH, it takes much longer to be reduced to, for example, 45MPH. I also find that the speed that I'm finally reduced to on any given hill, is about the same -- assuming the hill lasts long enough. Sometimes on shorter grades I can "get over the top" before I'm forced to reduce gear though. Thus I speculate that there is a point where the relative difference in efficiency is canceled out by the systems power and it becomes a non-factor. I think that friction reduction is also responsible for the Rover feeling slightly peppier with the hubs unlocked, but will freely admit that the increase in pep is much more subjective and less noticeable than the "hill" benefit. I definitely find other factors, such as temperature (or maybe it's the humidity), have much more effect than the state of the hubs. Some days the car runs like a top, (relatively) quick and smooth -- others it doesn't. The same is true for differences in top speed -- other influences which make judgements about the hubs more suspect. The ability to keep speed, once it's aquired, is constant in my experience -- it applys no matter how the car is running, and is always improved when the hubs are unlocked. I agree totally that paying for a set of hubs in two months time, solely though improved fuel economy, seems extremely optimistic. But hey, even with the highest gas tax in the U.S., I pay little per gallon compared to other countries so YMMV. Besides, I've never calculated fuel efficiency so I make no claims. However, knowing Al Richer as I do, I'd be willing to state that his findings are worth further analysis. One thing that hasn't been discussed yet is the reduced wear on the front diff and propshaft when you've got the hubs unlocked. There must some benefit in this. Opinions? In conclusion, I stand by my original statement: Free Wheel Hubs have their place, and the blanket notion that they shouldn't be installed *under any circumstances* -- or advice to that effect -- is inherently flawed. RoverOn! JAB == Jeffrey A. Berg Purple Shark Media Rowayton, CT jeff@purpleshark.com ================== Guidance Counselor said your scores are anti-heroic. Computer recommends hard-drinking calypso poet. --Jimmy Buffett, If It All Falls Down (by Matt Betton) ------------------------------[ <- Message 57 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 96 16:38:36 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Subject: Re[2]: Dissention in the Yanks >I bought my IIa brand spankin' new in 1970, and drove her as a "working >Rover" for the first ten years (constant off-road/no-road, income >producing means of transportation). Well, then YOU didn't need them. Good job. You saved a few bucks. >>...And unlike you 4WD "hobbyists" exploring the trackless wilderness of Arlington, VA, Oooh, you're making me angry...you wont like me when I'm angry!!!!ARRRRGGGGHHHH!!!....(clothes start to split under the strain of grotesquely engorged neck muscles....) >>> being able to shift-on-the-fly 4WD was a real and much used advantage in the bush. Actually, we can shift on the fly too. I just have to lock my hubs at the beginning of the day, and VOILA, its the same as yours! Imagine that! As for us hobbyists and our on and off road pursuits, if I could off-road on my lunch hour I would, but it just isn't practical. I bought a Land Rover because I wanted a 4wd that could survive being owned by me. I'm hard on my gear and I like quality. I decided to make it into a vehicle that is a reasonably stressless daily driver as well. I wasnt out for luxury, so I didn't paint it or put fancy walnut trim on the inside (sorry ajr) but i also didn't want it to be a rolling stress test. Everything functions well so why shouldn't I use it on the road?. I take it out into the dirt whenever I can which unfortunately isn't so often but does that mean Im not allowed to drive it on the pavement the rest of the year?. Give me a f**in break Tony. >. I just don't agree with your position that >hubs are "a viable option that increases the versatility of the Land >Rover". In the enviorment that the LR was designed for, they do just the >opposite. If its a completely, one hundred percent off-road only vehicle then you are right. There's just no need for it. Once you are out on pavement it certainly does not make anything less versatile, unless you are an idiot and never lock them. The general consensus seems to be take them or leave them...no difference. It's when they are used improperly that they cause problems. Just like any other piece of machinery. Dreaming of getting into some of that Wisconsin bush, with my front propshaft already engaged... Dave B. Arlington VA. home of the trackless wilderness full of damned hobbyists ------------------------------[ <- Message 58 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 96 16:33:32 -0500 From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov> Subject: Irie good time, mon! Just got back from the British Virgin Islands and there are quite a few Land Rovers down there! OK the trip was a blast and the sailing great, but the Rovers were cool! At Foxy's bar on Jost Van Dyke there is a lime green s3 with square headlights and no glass from the windshield back. There's also a green station wagon that looks pretty venerable. On Virgin Gorda, the Fire brigade drives a 110 fire engine. I got a picture of the firemen standing in front and they ran the lights and everything for me! On the way to the airport yesterday I saw three series trucks; a powder blue 88, a peach(!) 88 truck cab and a brown soft top 109 on the road. Also saw a Gelandewagen and two discos and one RR. Bill Adams 3D Artist/Animator '66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel. Soon to be Triumph Trophy owner ? ------------------------------[ <- Message 59 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 16:44:14 -0500 From: Kevin Girling <lroshop@idirect.com> Subject: LROI what kind of AMerican coverage does it have in LROI? thanks -tre Getting better each month. We are keeping the pressure on LROI to keep it up. I shall be with the publisher and editor next week to press home the message and pass on the many comments, good and bad, from web users. Regards Kevin ------------------------------[ <- Message 60 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 16:59:31 -0500 From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com> Subject: Re: FWH's Peter Hirsch writes (regarding rear FWH for flat towing): >Disengaging rear fwh's while you are driving does not increase fuel >efficiency any further, btw. I would agree. Though there is a reduction in friction (See my post: "Yankin' the hubs again"), weight remains constant. All things considered, it's probably not enough of a difference to have much effect on gas mileage. The reduction of unecessary wear & tear on the towed vehicles drivetrain is something else entirely... Rgds. RoverOn! JAB == Jeffrey A. Berg Purple Shark Media Rowayton, CT jeff@purpleshark.com ================== My garden is full of papayas and mangos. My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos. Taste for the good life, I can see it no other way. --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version) ------------------------------[ <- Message 61 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 17:27:16 -0500 From: Tre McCroskey <tmccroskey@CENTER.COLGATE.EDU> Subject: Re: LROI how do i go about subscribing to LRO? -tre isn't there a 800 #? ------------------------------[ <- Message 62 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 14:21:43 -0700 From: faurecm@halcyon.com (C. Marin Faure) Subject: Re: Engaging 4wd on the move > Paul said- >To eliminate possible damage ... DON'T FIT FREE-WHEEL HUBS! If you >forget whether the hubs are engaged or not and have to engage 4X4 on the >move (and the hubs aren't locked) you're gonna swear at yourself. While the caution against trying to shift into 4wd on the move with feewheel hubs disengaged cannot be repeated too many times, I don't think this is a reason not to fit freewheel hubs at all. I installed Warn hubs on my Series III 88 within a year after purchasing the vehicle new in 1973, and I've never regretted having them. I've never accidentally engaged the 4wd lever, although I have, on occasion, become uncertain of which position the hubs were in during a drive. In those cases, I simply stopped and checked. It's always been pretty obvious to me prior to a drive whether or not I might need 4wd due to road or weather conditions. If it looks like I might need it I engage the hubs before leaving the house. But having the ability to disengage the front wheels on good roads and nice days has saved me countless gallons of fuel over the 23 years I've owned the vehicle, reduced the noise (a little, not much), and added a small but noticeable amout of performance when the hubs are unlocked. If one is particularly concerned about the possibility of trying to engage 4wd with the hubs unlocked, it would be a simple matter to fabricate a bar mounted to the floor in some way which could be pivoted into position under the yellow knob to physically prevent you from pushing the lever down. Whenever you unlock your hubs, you put the lever lock into position. I have considered doing this from time to time, more for want of something to do than for the fact that I thought I really needed it, but have never gotten around to it. Over 23 years of double-checking the position of the hubs before a drive has simply made it an unbreakable habit, and a lock would be redundant. But it certainly would be easy to fabricate, and there may be owners out there who have done just that. C. Marin Faure (original owner) 1973 LR Series III 88 1991 RR Vogue SE ------------------------------[ <- Message 63 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 18:26:55 -0500 From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com> Subject: Re: LROI At 05:27 PM 10/30/96 -0500, you wrote: >how do i go about subscribing to LRO? -tre [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] >how do i go about subscribing to LRO? -tre >isn't there a 800 #? No, there is an 888 #. :) the number is 1-888-lro-shop or 1-888-576-7467 beats the heck $8.64 I was paying! Mike Johnson N7WBO http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm ------------------------------[ <- Message 64 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 18:39:25 -0500 (EST) From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com> Subject: LRO Magazine. I am a British Land rover enthusiast and have lived here in NY for the past two years. In todays LRO Digest you ask the question "is everybody happy with :LRO, is no news good news ? Until earlier this year I was a subscriber to LRO since the very beginning, i.e. the days when it was privately owned. I allowed my subscription to lapse because of the high cost. Particularly when compared to other magazines in the marketplace. When one compares the subscription price of any other magazine to the newsstand price there is a significant difference. My brother in law is the Production Director of a large UK magazine printing company and so I have some idea of the costs involved in producing a magazine. To be told that printing costs lead to cost increases which are equal to the printing price is stretching my gullibility too much. When one compares the amount of advertising in the magazine to the editorial then i believe the advertisers are really paying the production costs. When one considers that at the newsstand price there are potentially several others sharing the profit margin on the magazine, it means that the publisher makes several times more profit on a subscription magazine than on a newsstand sale.Adding to this the fact that the subscription mony is paid up front, it can be used to either earn interest or reduce borrowing etc. I still believe that subscription purchasers of the magazine get a raw deal. I therefore wish to add my name allongside that of Dixon's in the big black list in the sky. Regards Bill Leacock Limey in exile. ------------------------------[ <- Message 65 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu> Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 18:01:20 +0000 Subject: Re: LRO Magazine. Bill Leacock writes: > I am a British Land rover enthusiast and have lived here in NY for the past snip > still believe that subscription purchasers of the magazine get a raw deal. snip Well said Bill! I took another look at the subscription cost (after the recent post by LROShop) and even a two year sub at the old price would save me about $0.50 per issue. That's a long time to have my money tied up for such a measly savings. I can't believe postage is *that* much. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research Madison,WI, USA 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@aae.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 66 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 16:03:15 -0800 (PST) From: Andrew Howton <andrew_howton@bc.sympatico.ca> Subject: Rover outing in Alberta It looks like the Rover outing this weekend (Nov 2) is a go. We have 6 SerII and SerIIIs lined up so far and everyone is welcome. We'd like to see a few coil sprung units to so if your in the Calgary area call. We expect to meet at about 8am in southwest Calgary (MacDounalds at Sarcee and Richmond Road) but phone either Brain at (403) 243-5415 or myself at (604) 425-0598 to confirm the location. With the weather as it is now we sould be seeing lots of mud,ice,& snow, bring chains and recovery gear if you have it. Myself and Brian both have winchs and other gear so don't be affraid if you lack it. The destination is the Maclane Creek off road vehical area just southwest off Bragg Creek Alberta (about 45min to 1hour from Calgary (Rover speed Scotty)). We're going to have a GREAT time so don't miss it, I'll post the aftermath here next week. And remember, becarefull out there and kept em oily side down. (PS sorry but I will double post this message to make sure it gets out.) Andrew Howton Sparwood, B.C. (604) 425-0598 ------------------------------[ <- Message 67 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 20:30:12 -0500 From: Kevin Girling <lroshop@idirect.com> Subject: Re: LROI In North America you can call toll free 1-888-LRO-SHOP. You can also subscribe via our web site using an online order facility or download the order form and fax it to us. Regards. >how do i go about subscribing to LRO? -tre [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] >how do i go about subscribing to LRO? -tre >isn't there a 800 #? ------------------------------[ <- Message 68 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 20:39:09 -0500 From: Kevin Girling <lroshop@idirect.com> Subject: Subscription Prices Well it seems we can't please everyone, only most of them. A new subcription for North America costs GBP57 for 13 issues. This price includes air mail which, being of British origin is very expensive. This is about US$86 or US$6.62 delivered to your door. You can of course wait three or four weeks for it to hit the news stands and pay a higher price. Isn't that what consumer choice is all about. When we started LRO SHOP in North America the price was GBP77, about US$116.27 Whichever way you decide to buy it we hope you enjoy the magazine and please, keep the comments coming. We will pass them on to EMAP. ------------------------------[ <- Message 69 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 21:08:04 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Hotter coils, welded points Greg Moore writes with problems with a newly-installed Accel supercoil. Well, you could do away with the points altogether...especially if you goal is more reliability in the wet. Fit a Luminition electronic ignition system and you're set. The purpose of a ballast resistor on the coil is to provide a hotter spark for easier starts. Typically, there is a separate wire directly to the coil from the ignition switch/start position whereby 12 volts are fed to the coil. Once the engine fires, the ballast resistor drops the voltage to 7 or 8 bolts or so...which supposedly prolongs the life of the various ignition components. Cheers *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) | | 757-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 757-622-7056 | | | *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---* ------------------------------[ <- Message 70 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 18:01:05 -0800 (PST) From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com> Subject: Re: Hand Throttle At 10:51 AM 10/30/96 GMT, you wrote: >This begged a question, how should I use the hand-throttle? Most of the >time, I have it set on say the 3rd or 4th notch from the slow end? I use it as sort of a cruise control. For long drives like on I-5 it works well, but you have to remember to set it back to 0 when you exit... Normally, I have it set at 0 (all the way off.) 'Course, mine is in serious need of cleaning and adjustment. --------------------------------------------------------------------- O- Uncle Roger "There is pleasure pure in being mad sinasohn@crl.com that none but madmen know." Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates San Francisco, California http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/ ------------------------------[ <- Message 71 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 18:01:15 -0800 (PST) From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com> Subject: Re: @Highway Speed? At 12:20 PM 10/30/96 -500, you wrote: >you really use a 11A everyday and drive faster than 60 mph? I saw a >HMN ad for 100 mph LRs? Has one ever gone that fast? I also saw a I was working 35 miles south of San Francisco for a while last year (I live in SF) and drove everyday. Other than the lack of a radio, it was great. Averaged 70mph. I know of an 88" that has done 100mph (not on the highway, of course) but it had a Chevy V-8 in it. --------------------------------------------------------------------- O- Uncle Roger "There is pleasure pure in being mad sinasohn@crl.com that none but madmen know." Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates San Francisco, California http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/ ------------------------------[ <- Message 72 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 21:07:59 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: LRO >I can now relax a bit although if anyone has any comments for the editor I >will be in the UK next week visiting with him. Ummm...you could ask him to pay me for the *copyrighted* article they used a while back. Didn't get so much as a farthing from 'em. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) | | 757-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 757-622-7056 | | | *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---* ------------------------------[ <- Message 73 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au> Subject: RE: Purchase of 1990 Defender 90 (NZ)/Diesel Engine Life Date: Thu, 31 Oct 96 13:39:00 EST Richard, My next door neighbour got over 300,000km out of his Holden Gemini 4-cyl diesel but then he was doing about 100km per day to and from work. I guess a Defender would match that. However, it really does depend upon how many km you do per year. For example, Aussie taxis are, in the main, Ford Falcon 4.1 litre 6-cylinder petrol engines running LPG (dual fuel). A friend's taxi has over 500,000 km with no major work on the engine. Not to be sneezed at. BUT it is on the road nearly 24 hours a day. By comparison, a RR buyers guide in 4WD Overlander magazine a year or so ago noted that the pre-leaded RR v8 engine would readily do 300,000 km before needing a rebuild but the post-1986 leaded engines apparently need rebuilding by 200,000km. Later leaded V8s were better. My '87 was re-engined at about 150,000 (it now has a 4.6L engine and 265,000km). For equivalent usage patterns of long runs, the diesel will outlast the petrol engine but I don't know about short haul use. Regards, Ron Beckett '87 RR (265,000km) '83 RR (125,000 km) plus 3 Hillmans (the 1971 Hunter engine rebuilt at about 100,000 miles - the car was bought new by me) ---------- From: Pyramid Subject: Purchase of 1990 Defender 90 (NZ)/Diesel Engine Life Date: Thursday, 31 October 1996 7:22AM I am looking at a 1990 Defender 90 currently. The vehicle has been AA checked and seems OK. However I would be interested in any opinions on the price. They are asking $30k. This seems comparable with the cost of importing a similar aged vehicle from the UK, plus duty etc. but is it a fair price? What I know is that the vehicle was imported from the UK, it's a 1991 model, has 72000km on the clock, was owned by a LR enthusiast in Nelson and then a pharmacist in CHCH. Any comments would be appreciated. Also I known that diesel engines are supposed to have a longer life than petrol, but how much. Another 1990 110 I have looked at had 130000km on the clock, how many more km's should it be good for? Thanks Richard Bloor 1982 SIII "Clyde" ------------------------------[ <- Message 74 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 18:57:58 -0800 (PST) From: Andrew Howton <andrew_howton@bc.sympatico.ca> Subject: Rover outing in Alberta Sorry if to anyone that has already seen this but it kepts coming back at me and I don't think anyone is getting it: It looks like the Rover outing this weekend (Nov 2) is a go. We have 6 SerII and SerIIIs lined up so far and everyone is welcome. We'd like to see a few coil sprung units to so if your in the Calgary area call. We expect to meet at about 8am in southwest Calgary (MacDounalds at Sarcee and Richmond Road) but phone either Brain at (403) 243-5415 or myself at (604) 425-0598 to confirm the location. With the weather as it is now we sould be seeing lots of mud,ice,& snow, bring chains and recovery gear if you have it. Myself and Brian both have winchs and other gear so don't be affraid if you lack it. The destination is the Maclane Creek off road vehical area just southwest off Bragg Creek Alberta (about 45min to 1hour from Calgary (Rover speed Scotty)). We're going to have a GREAT time so don't miss it, I'll post the aftermath here next week. And remember, becarefull out there and kept em oily side down. (PS sorry but I will double post this message to make sure it gets out.) Andrew Howton Sparwood, B.C. (604) 425-0598 ------------------------------[ <- Message 75 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Wdcockey@aol.com Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 22:01:28 -0500 Subject: Re: Engaging 4X4 on the move (mystery) C. Marin Faure correctly observes that: >To disengage >4wd, however, you will have to come to a complete stop, pull the High-Low >Lever (red knob) all the way back into LOW, which releases the yellow knob >lever, and then shift the High-Low lever back to HIGH. Why the necessity to shift to 4wd low from 4wd high before 2wd was designed in is a a complete mystery to me. It is purely a result of the complex transfer case shift mechanism, not the transfer case itself. In older Jeeps and the like with a much simplier shift mechanism you can shift out of 4wd high on the fly as easily as into 4wd high. There was a posting a year or so ago about how to modify the shift mechanism so you can shift directly out of 4wd high to 2wd, but it seemed rather involved. Maybe James Taylor will find an "old boy" who can explain the rationale. Regards, David Cockey ------------------------------[ <- Message 76 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Wdcockey@aol.com Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 22:10:12 -0500 Subject: Prefab Social Circle (AutoWeek Nov 4, 1996) "Land Rover has made ownership of its vehicles a hobby, complete with a prefab social circle of the like minded" >From Autoweek (November 4, 1996, pp24-26) three page article on the Land Rover Centre strategy. Only mention of Series LR is the "the indelible image is that of Malin Perkins and the dogged Jim Fowler bouncing across the veld in a Series II, on their way to an adventure with lions and snakes." In the same issue is one page about a 1958 Toyota Land Cruiser, including mention that the Land Cruiser was a foot in the door in international markets. Regards, David Cockey ------------------------------[ <- Message 77 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 22:15:17 -0500 From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice) Subject: Re: Free wheel hubs >As an aside, a French outfit has developed a free-wheeling hub, >centre diff locking, front prop shaft disconnect system for the >classic Range Rover, supposed to fit Disco's & Defenders to.... - Now *that* has got to be something to avoid... like the plague! A snooty French free wheeler.. Run away! Run away! Cheers Mike ------------------------------[ <- Message 78 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 20:23:17 -0800 From: rogers@batnet.com (Jeffrey A. Rogers) Subject: NAS Defender 90 Information Hello! I'm new to the list and was wondering if there are any lists, or other internet resources, dedicated to NAS D90's. ------------------------------[ <- Message 79 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Wdcockey@aol.com Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 22:35:27 -0500 Subject: Replacing brake lines (Re: Dual or Single Brake Sys.) As an aid in bending brake lines I've used heavy aluminium wire to form a template first. With pre-made lines cut the wire to the length of the line, then use it to figure out how to bend the line to fit. When flaring the ends yourself use the wire to determine the length needed. My practice is to replace any metal lines I don't know the history of which show rust, and any hoses which have deep cracks. On our pickup one of the rear axle lines broke where it passed through the grommet as I was removing it. Scary. The SW blew a front line during pre-purchase inspection with a haeavy foot on the brake. Also scary. In both cases the brakes had been okay. Brakes and steering are the most critical systems. Don't rely on dual master cylinder as an excuse to neglect the brakes. Use steel lines, no concerns about fatigue as with copper alloys nor galvanic corrosion worries as with copper alloys. I doubt there is a savings with resleeving LR wheel cylinders. My biggest problem when replacing lines are frozen bleeder valves. Keep the tophats on to keep water out of the valve. Regards, David Cockey '60 SII 88" PU '60 SII 88" SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 80 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au> Subject: RE: Rover FWH Date: Thu, 31 Oct 96 14:48:00 EST Hi Alistair, I am not an expert, I only go on what I read. Like you, I would have expected an improvement in fule economy with the hibs free-wheeling. Re changing to 4WD on the move: I recently did a 4WD driver training course with the NSW Land Cruiser Club ( I had an FJ55 Land Cruiser at the time - since sold to my son). On that course, they taught that one can change from High 2WD to Hig 4WD on the move with no problem. I quote from the training notes (I know the LR has a more complicated excess of levers) "To shift from H2 to H4, you simply back off and pull the lever to the H4 position" "To shift from H4 to H2 back off the accelerator and push the lever to H2" "To shift from H4 to L4 you must STOP, de-clutch and shift the lever to L4" "To shift from L4 to H4 you must STOP, declutch and shift the lever to H4 position" Regards, Ron Beckett '87 Rangie 4.6L ---------- From: Alastair Subject: Rover FWH Date: Monday, 30 October 1995 11:41PM I've got a LWB 6 cyl ex Army LR, that I got in Victoria (I'm at uni in QLD most of the time, and Rovers are very expensive up here! ;-)) My mechanic told me down south that FWH do little for fuel economy, can damge your driveline if 4wd is selected on the move if they're in 4x4, but can possibly save wear. I don't know...I have FWH in my car; (I have serious probs with 'em at the moment though), so I can't tell you if I get a more economic highway run with them in 4x2. Scientifically, I'd have to say there would be a *slight* fuel saving running along the highway with 4x2 on the hubs; just jack a corner of the car up, and try spinning the front wheel (that's jacked up of course!) first in 4x4, then in 4x2 - there's a noticable differennce when I move the wheel by hand, so I imagine my engine feels it too! The 6 is a real gas guzzler, and I get something like 25-28L/100kms...not a student car I know! But Lawerence, in Singapore has a vehicle pretty close to mine, and he has good fwh, and an overdrive and reports 15l/100kms, so there's got to be something in that! Regards, Alastair ***************************************** *Alastair Lyon * ** 1979 ex-Military Police Series III two door * *2.6L Rover 6 cyl. * *Townsville, Australia * ***************************************** ------------------------------[ <- Message 81 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Johnny Halverson" <halvers@empnet.com> Subject: subscribe Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 21:48:53 -0800 Subscribe lro halvers@empnet.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 82 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 13:31:20 -0500 From: CompuServe_Mail <postmaster@compuserve.com> Subject: Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] id MAA06128; Wed, 30 Oct 1996 12:14:32 -0500 id JAA21098; Wed, 30 Oct 1996 09:03:55 -0800 Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 18:07:25 +0200 From: pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield - System Manager (SERCO) X492) X-To: lro@playground.sun.com Subject: Lancastrians on tour X-edited-by: LRO-Lite Message-ID: <bulk.21072.19961030090321@Land-Rover.Team.Net> Hi people Subject: Re: LRO International >>> More UK content! :-) >> More Scottish content!! :-} More Euro content for the Euro-boys oh, sorry, I don't get it anymore here :-( Subject: Re: Free wheel hubs I've got 'em and I love 'em but it's damn hard making the gasket that fits between the ally bit and the hub, the ones I got from my local LR bits shop were wrong. Ball pein hammer for 20 Mins was preferable to the 20 mile drive. For my next trick, a head gasket fashioned from a sheet of annealed copper..... Re: Yorkshiremen I'm a Lancashire man myself, that's even further from Scotland on my map (Cumbria gets in the way) Re: MOT's Mike rants: > The tests are run by *private* licensed garages, with no guarantee that the > so-called mechanic that is giving you the benefit of his expert opinion can > even *read*. Come on Mike, there are _some_ duff testers out there, but they have all had to pass the DOT course to say they can test vehicles. This privilege can be revoked if they let a death trap back on the road. (Even though the test certificate only certifies the condition of the vehicle at the precise moment of the test) Personally, I'm quite happy about the MOT, I'm not happy about the licence to print money it gives some (unscrupulous) garages. Subject: Steering Relay Franz says: > I'm pretty sure, that this won't get the 90w were it should (at least if you > don't wait a long time) There is no other easy option on the later type, so it's best to crank out the bolts (2) & syringe it in through one hole. I didn't have a syringe, hence having to drip in EP90 for about 1/2 hour. Cheers, Paul. ------------------------------[ <- Message 83 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 13:31:20 -0500 From: CompuServe_Mail <postmaster@compuserve.com> Subject: Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] Message "Lancastrians on tour", sent at 13:26 EST on 30-Oct-96, could not be delivered to [106344,3302] at 13:31 EST on 30-Oct-96 because the recipient mailbox is full. ------------------------------[ <- Message 84 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 13:54:50 -0500 From: CompuServe_Mail <postmaster@compuserve.com> Subject: Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] Message "Check Engine light", sent at 13:45 EST on 30-Oct-96, could not be delivered to [106344,3302] at 13:54 EST on 30-Oct-96 because the recipient mailbox is full. ------------------------------[ <- Message 85 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 13:54:50 -0500 From: CompuServe_Mail <postmaster@compuserve.com> Subject: Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] id LAA24841; Wed, 30 Oct 1996 11:45:06 -0500 id IAA20491; Wed, 30 Oct 1996 08:24:46 -0800 Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 08:28:27 -0800 From: cascardo@ix.netcom.com (Lucas Andres Cascardo) Subject: Check Engine light X-To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com X-edited-by: LRO-Lite Message-ID: <bulk.20479.19961030082431@Land-Rover.Team.Net> What does the Check Engine light exactly indicate on a D90 '95. In the manual it says it could either be a problem with the electronic fuel injection or the exhaust system? How does it monitor both? Reason asking is that mine lit up and after about 10 min the car started billowing white smoke from the exhaust and I could not accelerate, driving slow I made it to the dealer. Surprisingly, the car did not stop. God I hope this isn't going to cost me....... Lucas C. ------------------------------[ <- Message 86 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 01:06:11 -0300 From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian) Subject: Happy B-Day >Regards >Peter Hirsch >SI 107in S/W >Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1) Happy Birthday to a beautiful and fondly remembered city. Steven Paustian AKA Generalissimo Chaos (Al U. Minium) President, Flatland Rover Society 04/500 D90SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 87 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 15:06:43 -0500 From: CompuServe_Mail <postmaster@compuserve.com> Subject: Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] id IAA05508; Wed, 30 Oct 1996 08:49:57 -0500 id FAA17789; Wed, 30 Oct 1996 05:42:26 -0800 From: RoverNut@aol.com Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 08:46:11 -0500 X-To: lro@playground.sun.com X-cc: RoverNut@aol.com Subject: Dissention in the Yanks X-edited-by: LRO-Lite Message-ID: <bulk.17778.19961030054213@Land-Rover.Team.Net> I have a 69 IIa without free-hubs. My truck can do over 75 mph (with OD) and cruises comfortably at 62mph (without OD). I have two friends with Series LRs. Both have free-wheeling hubs. My car is faster, gets better gas milage and is just as quiet, if not quieter. I don't think this has anything to do with the fact that I don't have FWH, I think it's because, although we all take really good care of our vehicles, mine was better maintained from the get-go. My experience is: you have nothing to lose or gain by installing FWH. Spend the money elsewhere. Modifications are nice, but don't screw around with something that seems to work fine. Yours, Alex Maiolo 69 IIa 89 Range Rover ------------------------------[ <- Message 88 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 15:01:46 -0500 From: CompuServe_Mail <postmaster@compuserve.com> Subject: Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] id IAA04800; Wed, 30 Oct 1996 08:48:12 -0500 id FAA17738; Wed, 30 Oct 1996 05:40:40 -0800 From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil> X-To: Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 08:38:18 -500 Subject: Re: Thermo fit... X-edited-by: LRO-Lite Message-ID: <bulk.17710.19961030054029@Land-Rover.Team.Net> I read of a one barrel Weber in use. Tell me more? Was this a factory option? Might someone know the throat size? Mark ------------------------------[ <- Message 89 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 15:01:46 -0500 From: CompuServe_Mail <postmaster@compuserve.com> Subject: Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] Message "Re: Thermo fit...", sent at 14:49 EST on 30-Oct-96, could not be delivered to [106344,3302] at 15:01 EST on 30-Oct-96 because the recipient mailbox is full. ------------------------------[ <- Message 90 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 15:06:43 -0500 From: CompuServe_Mail <postmaster@compuserve.com> Subject: Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] Message "Dissention in the Yanks", sent at 14:53 EST on 30-Oct-96, could not be delivered to [106344,3302] at 15:06 EST on 30-Oct-96 because the recipient mailbox is full. ------------------------------[ <- Message 91 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 15:48:22 -0500 From: CompuServe_Mail <postmaster@compuserve.com> Subject: Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] id FAA26528; Wed, 30 Oct 1996 05:51:47 -0500 id CAA15664; Wed, 30 Oct 1996 02:47:28 -0800 Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 05:47:28 -0500 X-To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice) Subject: Re: Generator vs. alternator X-edited-by: LRO-Lite Message-ID: <bulk.15650.19961030024620@Land-Rover.Team.Net> John Cooper sez.. >When driving with all appliances going (wipers, heater, lights) I have no juice left after stopping and trying to restart the beast. When driving with no appliances going I have enough juice to start the rover. Should I have the original generator rebuilt or purchase an alternator. If the alternator is the way to go, can you recomend a brand, size, and installing tips? Thanks, John Cooper - Before you go that route, check the battery and the condition of the battery terminals, battery cables, and connections on the generator and regulator. You could have a weak battery or a poor connection preventing the battery from being fully charged. Cheers Mike Loiodice 166 W. Fulton St. 1965 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Faded Green Gloversville 1972 SerIII 88 Petrol - Fern Camo NY 12078 (USA) 7 1971 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Red and Blue #:-}> 1964 Triumph Spitfire - BRG ------------------------------[ <- Message 92 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 15:48:22 -0500 From: CompuServe_Mail <postmaster@compuserve.com> Subject: Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] Message "Re: Generator vs. alternator", sent at 15:22 EST on 30-Oct-96, could not be delivered to [106344,3302] at 15:48 EST on 30-Oct-96 because the recipient mailbox is full. ------------------------------[ <- Message 93 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 19:14:26 -0500 From: CompuServe_Mail <postmaster@compuserve.com> Subject: Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] Message "Re: electrical rebuilds", sent at 17:46 EST on 30-Oct-96, could not be delivered to [106344,3302] at 19:14 EST on 30-Oct-96 because the recipient mailbox is full. ------------------------------[ <- Message 94 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 19:14:26 -0500 From: CompuServe_Mail <postmaster@compuserve.com> Subject: Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] id JAA03105; Wed, 30 Oct 1996 09:47:41 -0500 id GAA18369; Wed, 30 Oct 1996 06:36:32 -0800 Date: Wed, 30 Oct 96 09:39:34 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> X-To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com Subject: Re: electrical rebuilds X-edited-by: LRO-Lite Message-ID: <bulk.18350.19961030063557@Land-Rover.Team.Net> My two pence concerning the question about the alternator (and the loss of juice): If you have the slightest suspicion that one of your electrical components is failing, my opinion is: rebuild the sucker ~ Ummm...I think if I did that I'd end up rebuilding ALL of them...:) Cheers Dave B. "Mr. Suspicious" ------------------------------[ <- Message 95 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 22:12:45 -0800 From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com> Subject: Re: Happy B-Day At 01:06 AM 10/31/96 -0300, you wrote: :>>Regards :>>Peter Hirsch :>>SI 107in S/W :>>Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1) :>Happy Birthday to a beautiful and fondly remembered city. :> :>Steven Paustian :>AKA Generalissimo Chaos (Al U. Minium) :>President, Flatland Rover Society :>04/500 D90SW CONGRADULATIONS!! May Vienna enjoy thousands of years more in peace and harmony as a jewel on the European continent. Michael Carradine VP, Land Rover Owners' Assoc. 72-88, 89-RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 96 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 18:25:07 -0500 From: CompuServe_Mail <postmaster@CompuServe.COM> Subject: Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] Message "Re: ighway Speed?", sent at 17:10 EST on 30-Oct-96, could not be delivered to [106344,3302] at 18:25 EST on 30-Oct-96 because the recipient mailbox is full. ------------------------------[ <- Message 97 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 22:25:27 -0800 From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Subject: Re: High Parts Cost? At 8:45 AM 10/30/96 -0500, Mark Gehlhausen wrote: >I was looking over a RoverLog catalogue and floored by the costs of >Series swivel ball and brake rebuild kits. Are all parts this ;expensive? Holy Cow, these are not Range Rovers!! Please >reveal your Series parts source stashes? Mark If you're in the US, British Pacific is generally your best price high quality parts source. TeriAnn twakeman@scruznet.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 98 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 18:25:07 -0500 From: CompuServe_Mail <postmaster@compuserve.com> Subject: Delivery report for message to [106344,3302] id NAA03793; Wed, 30 Oct 1996 13:11:27 -0500 id KAA22176; Wed, 30 Oct 1996 10:03:29 -0800 X-To: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil> X-Cc: lro <lro@land-rover.team.net> From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 30 Oct 96 13:03:47 EST Subject: Re: @Highway Speed? X-edited-by: LRO-Lite Message-ID: <bulk.22165.19961030100254@Land-Rover.Team.Net> Sure, it can be done - I do it every day. My typical commute is a 60-mile round trip from the New Hampshire border to Boston, usually done at 65-70. This is in a 109 with 16-inch tires and an overdrive, and the stock 2.25. Works fine - there's no reason not to. ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 99 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 18:08:11 +1100 From: Paul Nash <paul@frcs.alt.za> Subject: Parts Books >From: Pieter Erasmus >Subject: PARTS CATALOGUE [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] >can obtain a parts catalogue for RANGE ROVER CLASSIC and the SERIES LAND >ROVER. Try Autobooks in Randburg: I don't have their phonenumber or address off-hand (it's in the Joburg directory though). I got sIII and 110 factory manuals from them, plus Haynes manuals _and_ a sIII factory parts catalogue. They also have lots of Range Rover books and manuals (lots of Rangies in that area). paul ------------------------------[ <- Message 100 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de> Subject: Re: Chained again Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 08:19:34 +0100 (MET) Tim said: | Someone once told me that winter driving success (or lack thereof) can be | attributed as follows: 50% tire, 25% vehicle and 25% driver skill. I'd put it to 40% driver skill. Last winter I easily pulled a guy with a 7.5 ton truck up the icy ramp to the parking lot behind our house. He wasn't even able to get the back axle onto the ramp and had better tires than I. At this time I was running on light truck tires with allmost no profile. An other thing about winter driving: It's not sure that you can easily drive down were you drove up just before. Breaking seems to be much more prone to loosing traction than driving. cu. Franz --------------------------------------------------------------- Franz Parzefall franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de _______ [____|\_\== [_-__|__|_-] Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..- ------------------------------[ <- Message 101 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 02:20:49 -0600 From: Nathaniel Council <council@gcnet.com> Subject: [Fwd: [Fwd: FWD: Re: AIDS (fwd), it's a school project, send it on. (fwd)]] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit THIS I A STUDENTS EXPERIMENT. THE REASON FOR ALL THE FORWARD MESSAGES IS EXPLAINED AT THE BOTTOM, PLEASE FORWARD AND DON'T ERASE THE FWD'S --------------671C1AF23857 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You may have already gotten this from Tim or not but check this out, It's kinda freaky if ya think about it...but I guess that's the whole point --------------27BB12744159 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 22:07:46 -0500 (CDT) From: johns natasha <johnsnat@acc.wuacc.edu> Subject: Re: AIDS (fwd), it's a school project, send it on. (fwd) ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 21:31:40 -0500 (CDT) From: Brown Sam M <brownmel@acc.wuacc.edu> palmeri adriana <palmeria@acc.wuacc.edu>, holthaus katrina <holth994@acc.wuacc.edu>, sarab@hesston.edu, jenn@hesston.edu, lmshear@mtholyoke.edu, HParrish@lonestar.UTSA.edu, ritch@juno.com, suthi@unm.edu, brice ramon arthur <briceram@acc.wuacc.edu>, brown kevin james <brown980@acc.wuacc.edu>, trujillo mario <truji999@acc.wuacc.edu>, johns natasha <johnsnat@acc.wuacc.edu>, ruggero melissa <ruggerom@acc.wuacc.edu>, schroller buffy l <schrolle@acc.wuacc.edu>, langhofer shelly <langhofe@acc.wuacc.edu>, hill amber <hillambe@acc.wuacc.edu> Subject: Re: AIDS (fwd), it's a school project, send it on. (fwd) This is long, guys, but be patient, it has a good point. ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Tue, 22 Oct 1996 15:29:11 -0500 (CDT) From: sharp tabitha <sharptab@acc.wuacc.edu> Cc: brown melissa <brownmel@acc.wuacc.edu> Subject: (Fwd) (Fwd) Re: AIDS (fwd), it's a school project, send it on. (fwd) ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Mon, 14 Oct 1996 17:08:23 CST From: "Anne, 96 Spires, Amy" <SPIRESA@BETHANY.BETHANYLB.EDU> Subject: (Fwd) (Fwd) Re: AIDS (fwd), it's a school project, send it on. ------- Forwarded Message Follows ------- From: Self <BETHANY/SPIRESA> Subject: (Fwd) Re: AIDS (fwd), it's a school project, send it on..but d Date: Mon, 14 Oct 1996 13:22:37 This e-mail has a powerful message. Keep all the forwards and forward to all of your friends. Enjoy and take it seriously. Wendy Just get through all the forwardings(with out erasing them!) and yo will see what this is all about ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 22:46:00 -0500 (EST) From: Alison Beth Mayer <amayer@indiana.edu> crhaines@ophelia.ucs.indiana.edu, Sarah Fordyce <sfordyce@indiana.edu>, mbina@falstaff.ucs.indiana.edu, wrubin@othello.ucs.indiana.edu, ralevy@othello.ucs.indiana.edu, jgriess@ophelia.ucs.indiana.edu, ldepa@ophelia.ucs.indiana.edu, Shawn Steiman <sss2912@alpha.cc.OBERLIN.EDU>, Marissa Mohr <trustno1@falcon.cc.ukans.edu>, My Family <LJAJM@aol.com>, Todd Blackman <toddles@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu>, Jayna Doshi <ShrideviD7@aol.com>, Josh Frost <cnvz85a@prodigy.com>, Caroline Collins <ST963619@PIP.CC.BRANDEIS.EDU>, Beth Eagle <beagle@music.cc.uga.edu>, Hal Bowers <hbowers@umr.edu>, Sabra Goffin <turbos69@aol.com>, Wendy Asner <wca6668@ksu.edu>, Lexie Applebaum <Baum7@aol.com>, mjjaffe@ophelia.ucs.indiana.edu, rklein@falstaff.ucs.indiana.edu, dfroemke@hamlet.ucs.indiana.edu, lzakiela@ophelia.ucs.indiana.edu, jkstroup@juliet.ucs.indiana.edu, Sara Magariel <lnmagrl@primenet.com>, Danny Osman <dsosman@students.wisc.edu>, Brian Fife <bfife@slate.Mines.EDU>, Brian Cooper <Smstuco95@aol.com>, fremon@uakron.edu, mhuff@nike.heidelberg.edu, GDrosemary@aol.com Subject: Re: AIDS (fwd), it's a school project, send it on..but dont erase the , fwd's you'll see why at the end... (fwd)sorry, just had to do it.. , , , , (fwd)Think that you will find this interes ing... (fwd) ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 22:52:53 -0400 (EDT) From: BRADLEY MICHEAL ALBUS <bma200z@barbados.cc.odu.edu> Marisa Louise Moen <mmoen@students.uiuc.edu> Subject: Re: AIDS (fwd), it's a school project, send it on..but dont erase the , fwd's you'll see why at the end... (fwd)sorry, just had to do it.. , , , , (fwd)Think that you will find this interes ing... (fwd) ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 20:10:39 -0400 (EDT) From: Mark Reinhardt Apelt <mra5m@server1.mail.virginia.edu> colleen blue <cblue8vk@mwcgw.mwc.edu>, jenny goode <goodejn@jmu.edu>, jenny larkin <cjlark@maila.wm.edu>, Katina <kapelt@vt.edu>, maria maratos <mgm9b@virginia.edu>, sarah mccall <smcca6ag@mwcgw.mwc.edu>, vaughn bell <Vaughn_Bell@brown.edu> Subject: Re: AIDS (fwd), it's a school project, send it on..but dont erase the , fwd's you'll see why at the end... (fwd)sorry, just had to do it.. , , , , (fwd)Think that you will find this interes ing... (fwd) Hola, Please pass it on ist been going long enough to keep it passing. look at the whole thing it is interesting (but long and old) Try sending it to another country. On Tue, 24 Sep 1996 20:04:59 -0400 (EDT) "John D. Koch" <jkoch@liberty.uc.wlu.edu> wrote: > Hope you like this...shitface > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)] > Stephanie Cauble <cauble@cleo.bc.edu>, > Matt Holliday <mhollid@tiger.lsuiss.ocs.lsu.edu> > Subject: AIDS (fwd), it's a school project, send it on..but dont erase the , fwd's you'll see why at the end... (fwd)sorry, just had to do it.. , , , (fwd)Think that you will find this interesting .. > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 18:54:38 -0400 (EDT) [ truncated by lro-digester (was 486 lines)] > >>>>>>>>>>> hussain@husc.harvard.edu, kopelson@husc.harvard.edu, > >>>>>>>>>>> laskey@husc..harvard.edu, obst@husc.harvard.edu, I tried to send this to others but the message at the end got cut off because of the enormous size that it had grown to so I deleted some of the forwards so the project could continue any way this was supposed to be an expirement to see if the e- mail system could be infected with the HIV virus. Please pretend you have been infected and pass this on to someone else. This is an AIDS awareness project it is not meant to offend anyone PS. please don't erase the forwards --------------27BB12744159-- --------------671C1AF23857-- ------------------------------[ <- Message 102 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: LROI Date: Thu, 31 Oct 96 10:04:46 GMT > what kind of AMerican coverage does it have in LROI? thanks -tre > Getting better each month. We are keeping the pressure on LROI to keep it > up. I shall be with the publisher and editor next week to press home the > message and pass on the many comments, good and bad, from web users. An idea: Some large international magazines have different editions. Perhaps LROi should consider this? Its good to have international and US articles, but not loads every month. Obviously, the Yanks will disagree here, so two editions might be an idea? Advertising could also be split accordingly? Just an idea Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) ------------------------------[ <- Message 103 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers) Subject: RE: Purchase of 1990 Defender 90 (NZ)/Diesel Engine Life Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 12:09:28 +-100 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Beckett, Ron[SMTP:rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au] wrote: By comparison, a RR buyers guide in 4WD Overlander magazine a year or so ago noted that the pre-leaded RR v8 engine would readily do 300,000 km before needing a rebuild but the post-1986 leaded engines apparently need rebuilding by 200,000km. Later leaded V8s were better. My '87 was re-engined at about 150,000 (it now has a 4.6L engine and 265,000km). My Land-Rover 110" 83 with a V8 have now run 247,000km without rebuild. it is a low compression 8.13 : 1, I have run it the last 180,000 km myself, on unleaded 92 octane only. At 168,000 km the heads was off, to do the exhaust valve on cylinder 7, and at that time, it was still possible to see marks from the hone-ing. I expect to open again when I reach 300,000 km, and do all the valves. NB: It is my daily driver, but I never come over 3000 rpm, and mostly go with 2000. Happy Rovering Bent Boehlers ------ =_NextPart_000_01BBC724.615C2740 ------------------------------[ <- Message 104 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk> Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 11:15:07 +0000 Subject: Re: Engaging 4X4 on the move >>I can engage 4x4 on the move. Is this correct. Any special >>procedures to follow so to eliminate any damage that can be done? >Engaging LOW range will require you to come to a complete stop at >which point you can shift the High-Low lever (red knob) back to Low. >You can shift from Low to High on the move, but you shouldn't be >moving very fast when you do. The Series III owners manual spells >all this out in more detail. I can change from high to low on the 90 at any speed the low box is capable of handling - say up to 25-30mph in 5th - by doing a sort of double-double-declutch with the relevant engine speed matching (since oyou have two boxes to shift). Try it gently from high 2nd to low 4th or 3rd. I havent actually done it for years, since I dont need to, but I was intereste to se if it was possible. It is and is not even that hard for someone used to a non-synchro crash box. ------------------------------[ <- Message 105 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 11:01:12 +0000 From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Subject: Re: Lancastrians on tour >Come on Mike, there are _some_ duff testers out there, but they have all >had to [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] >Personally, I'm quite happy about the MOT, I'm not happy about the licence to >print money it gives some (unscrupulous) garages. Not a rant at all.Merely a statement of what I've found.And the first year I had a car was the first year that the MOT came in.Which was fine at the time,brakes,lights,steering,structural soundness.But its gone far too far IMO.It has little to do with safety,apart from the basics mentioned, and is so complicated that few if any of your average mechanics can understand most of what they are doing.And if some of the ones *I've* come across have passed the MOT course,it doesnt say much for the course. Not only is it a licence to print money for unscrupulous garages,it is being used as a similar licence for Motor Factors and the trade. As for death traps,the main problem seems to be to convince some of these idiots that the car isnt,and shouldnt be,new!I would hazard a guess that if the MOT was abolished tommorrow,it would take at least ten years for vehicle soundness related accidents to increase by any significant amount. And if the test was cut back to cover what it originally set out to cover,and no more,They probably wouldnt increase at all.My view,and I'm sticking with it:-) Cheers Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 106 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 11:47:04 +0000 From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Subject: Re[2]: Dissention in the Yanks Dave(The Hulk) roars: >Oooh, you're making me angry...you wont like me when I'm >angry!!!!ARRRRGGGGHHHH!!!....(clothes start to split under the strain of >grotesquely engorged neck muscles....) I wonder if,out of deference to the well being of Dave's shirts,it is worth re-iterating what the Land Rover *was*,and still is,designed for. An agricultural vehicle,with all that implies.It is to the credit of its designers that it fulfills so many much different roles today,nearly fifty years later.Land Rover also found that people were buying it for reasons they never envisaged at the design stage.I've seen a good many, owned by farmers etc *with* FWH.And farmers dont spend money lightly. Just depended what their usage patterns were with the vehicle.Taking stock to market is an on-road task,taking fodder to beast in the fields in winter,an off-road one.Wife taking it shopping,daughter taking a horse to a show,popping down to the pub,tree-stump pulling, fence mending,the list is endless.And the County Set bought them,they became fashionable.I can remember many years ago,a colleague of my father's turning up at work in a 109 Safari.This bloke was particularly keen on socialising,and not,at first sight,a Land Rover type at all. His excuse was"Well,if you turn up at a dance in it,people think you've left the Bentley at home."And a fashion accessory it *wasnt* designed as. I looked out of the window this morning,and there,on a building site, (*more* green field gone!)is a 110 Tdi hardtop.Basic bog standard,blind side H/T with the firm's name on the sides.Sitting inna field.Nearly new. As for the "hobby types" Tony,can I point out that but for the hobbyists there wouldnt *be* many of the old girls left.And you wouldnt *beleive* the mental contortions you have to go through to justify buying one. If you really want a useless accessory,try one of those dashboard mounted "roll and pitch" gauges.Ensures you are looking at the dashboard while you go inverted..... Cheers Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 107 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST Input: messages 106 lines 4987 [forwarded 744 whitespace 1063] Output: lines 3393 [content 2501 forwarded 204 (cut 540) whitespace 952] Land Rover Owner Subscription Information: * All new subscription requests are via the digest. * In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved (by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net Useful commands for this are 'index lro-digest' which returns a list of files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc. World Wide Web Sites start at http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/pages.html (shadow) http://www.Senie.com/billc/lr/pages.html If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net -B[ First Message | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961031 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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