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Date: Sat, 28 Oct 1995 23:06:27 +1000
From: Alastair <alastair.lyon@jcu.edu.au>
Subject: 6 cyls v.s TURBO DIESEL!!! *yay*

Hi all!

Just writing to proclaim that I just CLOCKED my LR!

I even got a photo of the dash at 000000 (must have looked pretty silly
from the outside, taking a photo of my dash at the side of the road! :>)

So, since it IS that *legendary* six cylinder; I WANT A TURBO DIESEL!

I know the SIII never had TD's in Australia, but what was the first model
here that did? And Where can I get one? What'll it cost me? Or should I
forget it all and fork out $4000 for a second hand Isuzu TD and
installation; and then get a new gearbox while I'm at it?

Oh, btw, saw all the stuff about oil lights - my car only puts it on very
shortly when it's cold (like 2 seconds tops), but as its on, there is a
distinct rattle...anything to worry about? I hope not...if there is maybe I
should be considering driving the beast into the nearest Unimog...

		Cheers!!

			- Alastair

*****************************************
*Alastair Lyon                                               *
** 1979 ex-Military Police Series III two door  *
*2.6L Rover 6 cyl.  			   *
*Townsville, Australia                                    *
*****************************************

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Birmabright Brotherhood
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 96 08:31:00 EST

Rod Steele writes "Is the list still active and can he change his address?"

Yes, the list still exists. I haven't been issuing monthly updates as the 
rate of change has slowed down. Some people have moved, some joined, some 
left, some changed providers etc. Please let me know your current status and 
I'll update the list and issue a November Edition.

Please just cut your section from the list, edit as appropriate then send me 
the new data. That way I'll just cut and paste into the full list.

If nothing has changed just sent a note saying it's still current and I'll 
know you still are out there waiting to help.

Some members lists get bounced when I mail them, if you haven't seen a list 
and think you should have, email me direct and we'll try to figure out the 
problem.

If you don't know what this is all about. The Birmabright Brotherhood is a 
group of Land Rover Owners who have joined together as a self help roadside 
assistance fellowship. If you would like to become a member of this group 
email me direct and I'll send you more details.

Trevor Easton
trevor_easton@dofasco.ca

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 06:16:23 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Series transmissions (was HP and Torque limit of IIA drive train)

At  9:43 AM 10/28/96 +0100, houniet@xs4all.nl wrote:

>it happens my broke it's layshaft just behind the small 1st gear.

My series IIA transmission's layshaft broke in the same place a couple
years ago. I had Scotty (A locally well known Land Rover mechanic with
license from Rover to do warrenty work on series LRs) rebuild the
transmission for me.  He pointed out a casting flaw where the break
occured.  He said that there is something about the design that causes a
castig flaw at thatpoint in about 10% of the lay shafts.  If you get one of
the 90% they almost never break. If you get a flawed one they will break
after a long usage.  My flawed one lasted about 30 years.

I think the important thing about these boxes is keeping it full of oil and
momentarily stoping at the neutral gate while shifting.  Power shifting and
changing non-syncro gears without proper double shifting are probably the
biggest reasions, outside of running a box dryish, for transmissions
dieing.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 08:13:01 -0600
From: "Herman L. Stude" <hermans@krts.com>
Subject: Re: Series III dash tray  removal(not instrument cluster)

John ;

I had the same problem removing my lower fascia to fix my siezed air 
vent controls.  The little buggers in question are rivnuts.  Hack the 
heads off, use a hammer and punch to open up the holes (they'll settle 
down in the bottom of the bulkhead no problem), order new rivnuts with 
their bolts from RN, find someone with a rivnut tool, put it all back 
together.

Herman (how do I get the heat off my feet) Stude
SIII

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 09:49:04 -0500
From: Brad F Worls <bworls@ovnet.com>
Subject: Re: Waxoyl ? Where can I get it ?

Oliver Gottlob wrote:

> So I think I want to dip the car in Waxoyl (Spaying all parts and the
> frames inner side).
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> Where can i buy ist in Germany, or there are companys in the UK or Europe
> they send it by mail ???

Oliver,
	I just finished reading the american mag. 'Four Wheeler', December
1996.  In this issue they cover products to fight RUST!  The waxy oily
stuff they list is called 'Heavy-Duty Anti Rust'.  This stuff is from
'The Eastwood Company' address to follow.  Also of interest is 'Rust
Preventive Paint' from 'Kanter Auto Products'. (address to follow) They
say this paint dries to a rock hard non-porous finish designed for
frames and floor boards.  I also think it might work wonders on
bulkheads.
	Hope any of this helps!

	The Eastwood Co.
	Dept. FW
	580 Lancaster Ave.
	P.O. Box 296
	Malvern, PA 19355-0714
	USA      (phone #(800)345-1178)
		 (phone #(610)640-1450)
		 http://www.eastwoodco.com
		
	Kanter Auto Products
	Dept. FW
	76 Monroe St.
	Boonton, NJ 07005
	USA	(phone #(800)526-1096)
		(phone #(201)334-9575)

        Disclamer.  I am in no way afiliated with the above companies
nor do I vouch
for their products. I'm just passing along information. After all I am
at the
bottem of the learning curve of LR's !

				Remember RUST never sleeps,
					Brad

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 09:51:17 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Waxoyl ? Where can I get it ?

On Mon, 28 Oct 1996, Brad F Worls wrote:

> 	I just finished reading the american mag. 'Four Wheeler', December
> 1996.  In this issue they cover products to fight RUST!  The waxy oily
> stuff they list is called 'Heavy-Duty Anti Rust'.  This stuff is from
> 'The Eastwood Company' address to follow.  Also of interest is 'Rust

	Waxoyl is made in the UK...

------------------------------

From: HAMBLYDAVE@aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 09:53:56 -0500
Subject: 101 for sale........

Dear All,

due to ill health, loss of employment, sale of house, purchase of Bedford MJ
and greed I reluctantly offer my much modified 101 for sale.  It is right
hand drive, has a home made hard top and is powered by a Nissan 2.8 straight
six diesel returning 23 miles to the gallon on a good day and 19 on a bad.

You will find details of the vehicle on my website at   

http://members.aol.com/hamblydave/101site.html

Price will be #4500 pounds sterling.  Delivery can be easily arranged to the
States or Canada.

Please E mail me for more details.

Thanks,

Dave.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 10:28:33 +0000
Subject: Re: Gasahol - why shouldn't I use it?

Ron Beckett asks: (and well he did)

Snip
> I note from the owners handbook that LR expressly advise owners not to use 
> ethanol blended petrol.  Why?
> Does it damage the engine or o-rings, etc., or does it have something to do 
> with meeting emission standards.

snip
The alchohol in GasAhol is a good solvent. You don't want to use it 
in anything other than a new car or one with a completly rebuilt fuel 
system (including tank). It will disolve all teh accumulated crud and 
clog your system.

As for newer older cars, I suspect that some have rubber components 
that can't withstand the alcohol.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: houniet@xs4all.nl
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 17:59:34 +0100
Subject: Re: Series transmissions (was HP and Torque limit of IIA drive train)

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
> I think the important thing about these boxes is keeping it full of oil and
> momentarily stoping at the neutral gate while shifting.  Power shifting and
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> TeriAnn
> twakeman@scruznet.com

Thanks TeriAnn,
I suspected a flaw, mainly because the largest area of the breakage was
fatigue wear. This gearbox was used by the army as an ambulance, and has
probably had it's gearbox thrashed around a bit.
Anyway, for us to replace all the broken or damaged parts would be far
to expensive. (about 500 uk pounds).
If anybody knows of SIIa gearboxes in The Netherlands of in the vicinity
for a reasonable price, please let me know.
Floris L-R 3speed coffee grinder.
Houniet@xs4all.nl

------------------------------

From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 11:31:50 -0500
Subject: Terri's top 10 list

Thank you for the time invested to give me your thoughts.  I appreciate being
able to tap in to your personal knowledge.

Fluids (#7) are in progress.  I wasn't able to remove the level plugs in the
gear box or the transfer case.  I gave them a squirt of penetration oil.  If
that doesn't work, what should I try next?  Heat up the metal around the
plugs?  Beat them soundly?

Brakes hoses (#6) are my shopping list since they don't look real good.  Some
of the outer area is worn.  Was under it enough to look at the steel lines
which look good.

>>Did you swap the 2-1/4L canaster type for the stosk 2-1/2L spin on or go
with some sort of aftermarket adaptor?

I assume it's an aftermarket adaptor.   Have to confess that I didn't ask
Steve at BritPac which one it was.   

>>British Pacific carrys new Lucas barral connectors, ground connectors and
solder on wire connectors as well as proper coloured & striped wires.  

Thanks for the suggestion.  I'll ask for a bunch of the items (less wire) on
my next order.  The wire can wait until I see exactly what I need.  Actually,
I wouldn't mind replacing the wiring totally but it will have to wait.

>>If your timing chain rattles for several seconds at startupand a timing
light shows your timing wondering around at idle, you could consider a new
timing chain.  
I'll check it.

>> A company in the UK actually makes a set of gears that replace the chain
and solves the problem of chain strech.  
Zeus?  I think they have an e-mail address now.  I'll drop them a note.

>>If you want to do something preemptive, purchase a new set of rear axles
and throw away your old ones. They crystalize over time and become more
likely to break.
Exactly my thought.  I've heard too many stories of them breaking in parking
lots, traffic lights, etc.

Right now, the priorities are getting the brakes finished, hoses replaced
(brakes, coolant) and in running-around town condition.  The rest of the
items will be approached as my LR budget allows.

When I drained fluids yesterday, I was shocked at how clean they were
compared to the engine oil which appeared quite old.  The gear fluids were
perfect but they were changed anyway.  At least now I have a baseline for
future activities.

Time to get back to work..... Thank you again TA!
Gerry Elam
PHX  AZ

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 17:53:27 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Free wheel hubs

Can anyone explain the advantage of fitting free-wheel hubs to the front
wheels of a Series III - is it to reduce drag/wear on the diff/front
wheel transmission/transfercase when driving in rear-wheel drive? What
advantages and savings are involved? Are there any other purposes
acheived by free-wheel hubs? Does the use of FWH's reduce transmission
noise whilst driving? (*high-hopes here*)

just curious, I see lots of them on old series vehicles in Denmark,
mostly appearing rusted/locked!
-- 
adrian redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
tel: +45 86 57 22 66  e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk

1:	Series III 1976 109" D Pick-up
2:	Series III 1979  88" D Hard top (Icelander)
---------------------------------------------------
"Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!"
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 18:22:00 +0200
From: pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield - System Manager (SERCO) X492)
Subject: Chained again

>Date: Fri, 25 Oct 96 10:28:05 EDT From: krm@mtnms.mt.lucent.com: 
>re: HP and Torque limit of IIA drive train >

>> Hello; How would you determine the point at which you would need to change
>> the drivetrain when swapping an engine? 

> Look on the net for an Australian web site called Marks 4WD adaptors  
> I am sorry I can't give you their URL address

It's at http://www.ozemail.com.au/~marks4wd/

>>RE: Note on pulling stumps......I've never... stressed any drivetrain parts.

> Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk> said
> Or just use the lorry as a ground anchor and winch em out with the HiLift.

Leaving it in gear ? :-)

RE: snow 'n' ice.

Lots of people have been talking about the performance of LR's in the snow / icy 
conditions. I am curious as to their performance downhill on Icy road surfaces.
Undoubtedly the 4 wheel drive will help in the traction stakes, but how about 
the huge weight of the truck ? Doesn't/wouldn't it have the tendency to slide ?

Does anyone use snow chains, do they need them ?

Regards,

Paul.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 09:33:50 -0800
From: Christopher Dow <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: IIA Wiring: Summary and diagnosis

I've been pestering both lists with my whining about my wiring harness for
a while now.  Since I am mostly done, I thought I'd post a summary of what
I did and how, and what the root cause was.

First, let me say that the harness was badly damaged in a fire and I was
unable to 'eyeball' many of the connections, as the original wires were too
badly burnt to make note of their color.  Thus, I was left in many cases to
the circuit diagram in my IIA and III manuals.  It turns out that turning
indicators were optional equipment in the UK for the year of my vehicle, so
those circuits were not covered in my shop manual, which covered IIs and
IIAs (IIBs?) up to 1963 (my IIA is a '65).

When I finally got things to work, I did it by starting at the battery, and
tracing the path of all electicity into the various circuits in the
vehicle.  I did this with a test lamp.  Not once was a fancy voltmeter or
DMM required.  When tracing the diagram, one can see that in the IIA, all
electical power goes into the vehicle from the connection of the battery to
the starter switch.  By placing a test lamp on the lead from the starter
switch to the starter motor, and then having someone push the starter
button in the cabin, one can see how power gets to the starter motor.
Also, there are brown leads on the battery side of that switch, which
basically provide all the power to the rest of the vehicle.  One of these
brown leads goes to the ammeter, and then a brown/blue lead goes from it to
many (if not all) other places in the car.  I ended up with one spurious
bown lead in the instrument panel, and I don't know what that is.  

Once the engine components are hooked up (this is fairly simple to get
right, if you remember that there really are TWO connections to the battery
side of the starter button), attention must be payed to the ignition
switch.  In order to understand what happens when the key is turned, use
the test lamp and test what is hot and what is not in each key position.
Doing this will shed light on how various vehicle components get juice.  

That's the general idea, and I'll write up a more detailed description of
how to do this for submission to the Rover Web.

After getting the vehicle to run, I found out (the hard way) that the root
cause of the problem was not, as I had previously thought, bad wiring
around the ignition switch, but rather the ignition switch itself.  I was
able to determine this when my lights started to flicker while driving the
Rover last night.  I noticed that sometimes the engine would falter just
like it was getting flooded with too much gas as it does on some cold
mornings.  I at first thought the flicker was caused by connections getting
shaken from the engine sputter.  However, once the car stopped running due
to this, I got out my trusty test lamp and found out the following:  The
light flicker and engine sputter were caused by the same thing:  The white
wire running from the igition switch (through the fuse box?--my shop manual
is at home) to the coil was not hot.  A bit of banging on it and fiddling
with it made the connection again.  Anyway, my theory is that the white
wire was grounding out and caused the original fire and later engine
sputter/light flicker.  That being the case, the rover is back in the car
port until I get a new ignition switch.  

An important thing to note is that I now know I was warned of this problem,
but didn't understand the warning.  I had noticed the engine sputter while
it was warm and under conditions which would normally have resulted in
smooth engine operation.  I attributed that to my manky old Solex carb and
made a mental note to get that Weber while the state of CA doesn't prohibit
it ('65 is smog-exempt).  In the final analysis, though, it seems it was an
electrical problem.  

As I said above, I'll submit a document for the Rover Web detailing how to
do this at least for a IIA, and some specific tips for how to debug
electrical stuff.

Chris
'65 IIA 88' SW
'96 Disco

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 11:20:51 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Gasahol - why shouldn't I use it?

Tom Rowe wrote:
> Ron Beckett asks: (and well he did)
> Snip
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 27 lines)]
>  Four wheel drive allows you to get
>  stuck in places even more inaccessible.

Tom is 100% correct on the problems of using gasahol in old vehicles.  I 
have found by experience that using it in old vehicles eats the rust out 
of the tank and it leaks.  It leaves the tank with tiny holes that sweat 
gas and are very dangerous.  If you start using it in a new vehicle, keep 
using it, it is a very good product.  I once took a motorboat course from 
Mercury Marine.  They said they would not honour the repair plan if 
gasahol was used in the engine.  They seemed to feel it got too hot for 
the engine as they had designed it.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 13:07:29 -0500
From: NateDunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Oops

Just got off the phone with RN, there's no such thing as a conversion
for the 7.25 oil canister to take the 5.25 canister.  Must've been
running it with a poor fitting filter for the last 4K.

It's running as well as always, are there any things I can easily do to
check for actual damage to the engine?  Sure there's excessive wear but
I can't do anything about that now, I'm just wondering if I should check
anything for actual damage.

Thanks
-- 
Nate Dunsmore
88" SIIa ("The Blue Brick" http://members.aol.com/naddmd/first.htm )
dunsmo19@us.net

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@bestinforsg.com>
Subject: RE: Disco Rear Door Rattle and WD/40
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 96 13:43:00 PST

I'm pretty new to the Land Rover game, but I've always used Tri-flow for   
any lubrication.  (except of course, where grease was called for...)

I used to race mountain bikes cross country and when doing any   
maintenance on my bikes, I ALWAYS used Tri-flow.  It's a great lubricant,   
and better than other lubricants, in that it tends not to attract dirt as   
quickly.

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767
'94/'95 Blue ProFlex 855

 ----------
From:  Michael R Fredette[SMTP:mfredett@ptdcs2.intel.com]
Sent:  Monday, October 28, 1996 9:03 AM
Cc:  rro
Subject:  Re: Disco Rear Door Rattle and WD/40

> Keith, try shooting some WD40 (or other light oil) into the rear door =
> hinges. They need to be lubricated more often than at every service =
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> U-shaped-thing on the body.
> That vibration from the subwoofer may not be fix-able. During the three   
=
> long visits to the dealer it took before they found the rattle in my =
> door (that a one-second shot of WD40 fixes), various techs completely =
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> things-that-were-always-loose and things-that-leak.
> Christopher Boese

**************************************************************************  
*
Chris,

     This is not a flame, so PLEASE don't take this wrong, but you've   
touched
     a button here with WD/40. WD/40 is NOT repeat NOT a lubricant. Win a   
bar
     bet, look at the can, NOWHERE does the word LUBRICATES appear. It's   
all
     phrases like "frees rusted bolts, penetrates, loosens sticky   
mechanisms
     stops squeaks" etc. And it DOES do THOSE things, but it DOESN'T
lubricate.
     WD/40 is mostly a mixture of kerosene and a mild phosphoric acid
solution. That's right
     ACID! That is what's doin the loosening and freeing of rusty stuff.
Trust me,
     you don't want to spray this stuff onto the inside of your doors to
LUBRICATE
     anything. Short term, it will do what you think, long term, you'll
actually
     start corrosion. Use something like Tri-Flow or LPS for lubricating.   
The
fact
     that your dealer uses WD/40 goes to show how far the "WD/40 does
everything"
     myth has "penetrated". It's only good for the things the can says,
freeing
     up rusted, stuck, or otherwise frozen bolts etc. I would actually   
pull
open
     the door panel and wash the WD/40 out with contact cleaner and then
respray
     with Tri-Flow Teflon to solve your squeaks.

     Rgds
     Mike Fredette
     Portland, Or.

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 14:10:09 -0500
Subject: Re: SIII front end....

In a message dated 96-10-28 00:48:20 EST, you write:

>For what it is worth, sometime you get windup on the front drive that 
>makes moving the free wheeling hubs in and out of lock a  problem.  I 
>just rock the vehicle while someone tries to move the handle or I jack up 
>the wheel and while giving it a bit of a turn try to move the handle.  It 
>might only be under pressure from windup and won't move.  Dave VE4PN

Yes I agree however your hubs may have a 'timing' problem thats what mine
were doing until I removed , cleaned them, and reset the timing...with the
hubs off the vehicle and with the 12 roller bearings out of the hub,  you
turn them all the way to free

------------------------------

From: Chris Britain <landy@btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Free wheel hubs
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 96 19:15:32 GMT

Adrian

Re: Four Wheel Hubs

Yes, they reduce wear
Yes, they reduce noise
Yes, they save fuel, I got my money back in around two months
Yes, they are worth the investment. Just make sure you get ones
with the right number of splines. Saves a trip back to exchange
them!

Run them in 4WD every so often to make sure the oil in the
front end of the systems gets moved around a bit

Chris Britain
'82 SWB SIII Diesel

------------------------------

From: "S. Vels" <svels@mail-server.dk-online.dk>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 21:28:48 +0001
Subject: Re: Free wheel hubs

> From:          Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>

> Can anyone explain the advantage of fitting free-wheel hubs to the front
> wheels of a Series III - is it to reduce drag/wear on the diff/front
> wheel 
Yes.

> transmission/transfercase when driving in rear-wheel drive? 
No.

> What
> advantages and savings are involved? Are there any other purposes
> acheived by free-wheel hubs? 
Better fuel economy and a more lively 109.
I have exprienced both to a certain degree. Don't expect it to go 
twice as fast on half the fuel though.

> Does the use of FWH's reduce transmission
> noise whilst driving? (*high-hopes here*)
Not really. What does?.
 
> just curious, I see lots of them on old series vehicles in Denmark,
> mostly appearing rusted/locked!

FWHs are either covered in 90wt (like mine) or rusted in locked 
position. Perhaps people forget to grease them inside before wading.
People seems to prefer to have them engaged during the winter. If you 
end up in a snow filled ditch, you don't want to dive in there to 
engage your hubs.

NOTE: FWHs must be engaged  now and then to lube the swivel pin and 
to exercise the splines on the front propshaft. If the propshaft is 
left in the same position the splines will grind a slack and cause a 
wobbly front end drive. 

rgds
sv/aurens

------------------------------

From: brstore@ibm.net
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 96 14:48:58 PST
Subject: Overdrive Rebuild

G’day all:

Let me introduce myself. My name is Brett Storey and I drive a 74 SIII SWB 
that I have owned now for 13 years. This is my first post to the list,
so here it goes;

I too have suffered the overdrive blues. Mine packed it in a couple of
year ago. Lost drive in all gears while using the bungee rope to bounce
a friend out of a bog. Was flapping good style thinking I just totalled
the gearbox but after thinking about it for a while realised it must
have been the OD going south. Sure enough, after removing the unit I
found the splines on the clutch sleeve and in the mainshaft were
stripped. They were also completely dry, nothing but dust. No
lubrication in there at all. Like others on the list have said recently,
I did not know that area was not internally lubricated.

I’ve been running without overdrive since but I’m doing a lot of
highway miles these days and am missing the taller gears, so my question
is...is it economical to rebuild the Fairey overdrive and has anybody on
the list done it before?

I remember reading some time ago that you couldn’t rebuild this unit 
(not sure where I saw this) but I don’t see why I shouldn’t be able to.
LROI magazine ran an article about buying and servicing used overdrives
and Rovers North lists all the parts for the job, but looking at the
prices it sure won’t be cheap. I’m wondering which is better after all
is said and done, rebuilding my old unit or buying a new one?

On a related note, how strong is the Fairey unit? I had no real trouble 
with mine until it broke but in the last or so I’ve done some
pretty serious off-roading on some pretty hairy trails and wonder if
those tiny splines are strong enough for the really good trails. Any
thoughts?

Looking forward to any replies.

Brett

Rover and out

------------------------------

From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 15:26:31 -0500
Subject: Traceability service

Got my answer for a request to John Riley, Project Eng. Traceability in
today's mail. 

First of all, this vehicle was represented to me as a 1964 Series IIA.  It is
in fact, a 1963 build.  Does that matter to me?  Other than as a curiosity,
not really.

The production sheet shows that the color of the SIIA was Limestone.  It also
shows an IN date of 5 Feb, 1963 and an OUT date of 19 Feb., 1963.  It was
dispatched to Rover of New York.  In fact, most of the vehicles on this page
went to either New York (26), Boston (7), Jacksonville (4), Toronto (2) and
one entry that I can read (appears to be Mitchell Coltin/Colts/(?) , Fr.
Somaliland/(?).  Total on page = 40, serial numbers range from 24407210 to
24407249.

There were only three colors listed on this page:  limestone, red and
something that I can't read but appears to be Mid Jxxy (?).  

There is also a column called "Label No." .  What is that?

Now the question:  Does " Soldado Sangrando, serial number 24407238" have any
surviving siblings out there?  Perhaps we should arrange a reunion in 1998 at
one of the rallys (50th year of LR too).

Gerry Elam
PHX  AZ
'96 Disco "Great White"
'64 .... 1963 Series IIA " Soldado Sangrando"

------------------------------

Date: 28 Oct 96 15:25:17 EST
From: Rob Dennis <73363.427@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: SerIII Heater Fan Blades

Well in preparation for the comming winter, my Smiths heater fan decided to
dissintegrate. Now just the hub that held the fins remains and the fins are
piled up in against the wire mesh screen. The motor seems to work fine, other
than vibrating due to the unbalanced load on the shaft, so I would like find a
replacement blade for the blower.

I recall someone on the list mentioning a while back that another british
product from this era had a more efficient fan blade, but I don't remember any
of the specifics. RN says they will sell me a new one for $45, but I would like
to find something a little cheaper, and if it works better too, all the better. 

Does anyone remember any of the specifics, or perhaps have another solution?

  
     -------------------       
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     73363.427@Compuserve.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|      (404) 875-4537
   |     |   ###   |     |      
   |     | ####### |     |      1972 SerIII 88
   |_____|_#######_|_____|      1990 RangeRover
  [_______________________]     1996 Discovery
     EEEI           EEEI

Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 On 28-Oct-1996

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 14:18:45 -0800
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: Re: Overdrive Rebuild, an option

Brett asks about overdrives. Here's my .02c:
To avoid the helpless feeling that occurs when the overdrive breaks, and the 
2 hours spent replacing it with the original parts carried along all this 
time, I've left the tranny stock ever since. However, if I was to spend the 
money again, I'd buy a "high-ratio transfer case". It provides taller 
highway gearing, but retains stock low-range without adding another weak 
link. Since I changed to the diesel, I can't really use taller gears anyway 
(not enough power to pull them) and 60mph is fast enough around here. If I 
needed more speed, I'd need more HP, but would dearly miss the mileage.
JohnO
'64 109 diesel (27mpg and getting better every year)

>have been the OD going south. Sure enough, after removing the unit I
>found the splines on the clutch sleeve and in the mainshaft were
>stripped. They were also completely dry, nothing but dust. No
and:
>I've been running without overdrive since but I'm doing a lot of
>highway miles these days and am missing the taller gears, so my question
>is...is it economical to rebuild the Fairey overdrive and has anybody on
>the list done it before?
and:
>I remember reading some time ago that you couldn't rebuild this unit 
>(not sure where I saw this) but I don't see why I shouldn't be able to.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)]
>Brett
>Rover and out

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 22:17:49 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@www.adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: Free wheel hubs

Adrian Redmond wrote:
> Can anyone explain the advantage of fitting free-wheel hubs to the front
> wheels of a Series III - is it to reduce drag/wear on the diff/front
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)]
> "Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!"
> ---------------------------------------------------

Free wheel hubs are an ingenious solution to a non-existant problem.

In a Series (or other) Landy they have a negligible petrol-saving effect
and effectively neutralise one of the major benefits of a Landy - being
able to engage 4X4 whilst on the move. They are junk which the Yanks and
Japs have to use to convert their Light Delivery Vehicles into 4X4
wannabes.

Not using them gives you a weight-saving, a hassle-saving, and less
parts to have to worry about breaking.

Regards

Paul

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Range Rover Roof Lining
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 96 08:22:00 EST

Hi,
The interior roof lining in my January '87 Rangie has started to drop over 
the driver's seat area.  Has anyone had any experience in gluing them back 
up without damaging them.  I can probably pull it down and open more near 
the door so I thought I may be able to lightly spray in some contact 
(impact) adhesive and push it back up.  Naturally, I don't want to damage 
the material or leave unsightly stains.

Will this stand the very high temperatures that will be experienced.  The 
car is Caspian Blue so it does get warm in the sun!

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 15:27:02 +0000
Subject: Re: Free wheel hubs

Paul Oxley writes:
> Free wheel hubs are an ingenious solution to a non-existant problem.
 
 In a Series (or other) Landy they have a negligible petrol-saving effect
 and effectively neutralise one of the major benefits of a Landy - being
 able to engage 4X4 whilst on the move. They are junk which the Yanks and
 Japs have to use to convert their Light Delivery Vehicles into 4X4
 wannabes.
> Free wheel hubs are an ingenious solution to a non-existant problem.
Yeh, but how do you *really* feel about them Paul?  :-)

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 13:28:37 -0800 (PST)
From: scooper@scooper.seanet.com (Sandy Cooper)
Subject: Did you ever wonder....

>Return-Path: <scoope@corp.atl.com>
>Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 11:47:00 -0800
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>Content-Disposition: inline
>X-UIDL: 3aee57fac395bff6b7703a33026dc4c5
 Some humor...no rover 
>      * Why do you need a driver's license to buy liquor
>when you
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 71 lines)]
>      * Why is it that when you're driving and looking for an
>address,
>        you turn down the volume on the radio?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 22:54:42 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re Free wheel hubs

Thanks for the replies to this evenings posting from me asking about
free-wheel hubs - the general concensusseems to be:

1.	They make a major contribution to fuel economy without actually 
saving fuel.

2.	They are a totally necessary waste of time

3.	They reduce wear on the front transmissions moving parts, but 	must
be engaged regularly to avoid wear on the front transmission 	parts.

4.	They reduce transmission noise dramatically without any change in 
noise being apparant!

Seems that, like so much on a Landy, it is a matter of taste,
experience, blind-faith, complex-theaory, and a sage understanding of
the black art of series 4WD, which in the end means that we must all
make up our own minds, choosing the advice which supports our preferred
solution!

NO seriously folks, thanks for the many, varied responses on FWH, I
would be interested in hearing how they are actually fitted, and how
easy this is to do in a well equipped workshop? Are any special tools
required, other than the stock Solihull Part Number -
818177223-1121191919-288383dw-99d8557f-79
(Hammer, rusted castings for the loosening of)

Thanks!

-- 
adrian redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
tel: +45 86 57 22 66  e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk

1:	Series III 1976 109" D Pick-up
2:	Series III 1979  88" D Hard top (Icelander)
---------------------------------------------------
"Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!"
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Oct 1995 09:24:29 +1000
From: Alastair <alastair.lyon@jcu.edu.au>
Subject: My Freewheel hubs....

Okay, I took all of your advice and jacked up the front wheels
(independantly! I only have one jack!)...the side that has the "locked"
freewheel hub (ie the one that won't get out of 4x4) rotates easily; the
front propshaft doesnt rotate (and the hub is in 4x4!)...on the other side,
it does what I expected it to: when it's jacked up, and clicked into 4x4,
then rotated, the front prop shaft spins....nothing moves except the wheel
when its in 4x2.

Now, the side that works well is the side that spits oil all over my wheel;
so I guess this FWH needs it's gasket replaced?

On the OTHER side (that is buggered), I guess I need to top the CV joint up
with 90wt oil, then strip the FWH, and soak it in oil, replace the gasket
and hope for the best right?

in the mean time, no 4wd'ing if one hub rekons its in 4x4, but the front
prop shaft doesn't move...I'll screw my front end up right?

Not what I plan to do...:>

Thanks all!

Alastair

*****************************************
*Alastair Lyon                                               *
** 1979 ex-Military Police Series III two door  *
*2.6L Rover 6 cyl.  			   *
*Townsville, Australia                                    *
*****************************************

------------------------------

Date: 28 Oct 96 19:18:11 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Undeliverable message

Your message could not be delivered for the following reason:

Mailbox 100766.1022 is currently full.
Please resend your message at a later time.

--- Returned message ---

	id TAA11947; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:17:58 -0500
	id QAA23508; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:13:14 -0800
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 1995 09:24:29 +1000
X-To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
From: Alastair <alastair.lyon@jcu.edu.au>
Subject: My Freewheel hubs....
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.23495.19961028161246@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

Okay, I took all of your advice and jacked up the front wheels
(independantly! I only have one jack!)...the side that has the "locked"
freewheel hub (ie the one that won't get out of 4x4) rotates easily; the
front propshaft doesnt rotate (and the hub is in 4x4!)...on the other side,
it does what I expected it to: when it's jacked up, and clicked into 4x4,
then rotated, the front prop shaft spins....nothing moves except the wheel
when its in 4x2.

Now, the side that works well is the side that spits oil all over my wheel;
so I guess this FWH needs it's gasket replaced?

On the OTHER side (that is buggered), I guess I need to top the CV joint up
with 90wt oil, then strip the FWH, and soak it in oil, replace the gasket
and hope for the best right?

in the mean time, no 4wd'ing if one hub rekons its in 4x4, but the front
prop shaft doesn't move...I'll screw my front end up right?

Not what I plan to do...:>

Thanks all!

Alastair

*****************************************
*Alastair Lyon                                               *
** 1979 ex-Military Police Series III two door  *
*2.6L Rover 6 cyl.  			   *
*Townsville, Australia                                    *
*****************************************

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: 1983 Rangie For Sale in Australia
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 96 11:26:00 EST

My wife tells me that 2 Range Rovers are too many so one has to go.

It is a March 1983 4-door Range Rover, colour Silver Sable.  4-speed manual 
box.  I think it has the "overdrive" transfer case (not the separate 
overdrive).  It has a genuine 125,000 km on the clock.  Interior, body and 
paint is excellent.  Fitted with 7" x 15" BWA mags (5 off) - good rubber. 
 Bull bar with provision for winch (not supplied).  Hayman-Reese tow hitch. 
 Pioneer stereo and amplifier.  Air Cond, power steer.
9.35:1 High Compression motor.

NO RUST 8->

Price A$ 16,500 ONO

I don't necessarily want to part with it but we do have the 87 RR auto.  The 
only reason we changed to the auto was because my wife broke her left foot 
and couldn't operate the clutch anymore.  We have only had the car a couple 
of months.  It is a good one - it was the only second hand RR on Asquith & 
Johnstones lot (Sydney LR Dealer) when we went looking (I'd just been 
gazumped on a 78 SIII LR diesel station wagon)..

Ron Beckett
Sydney, Australia
tel: (02) 9339-6921 work
fax: (02) 9339-6929 work
tel: (047) 35-6883 Home

------------------------------

Date: 28 Oct 96 19:26:15 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Undeliverable message

Your message could not be delivered for the following reason:

Mailbox 100766.1022 is currently full.
Please resend your message at a later time.

--- Returned message ---

	id TAA14189; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:25:56 -0500
	id QAA23747; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:21:20 -0800
Date: 28 Oct 96 19:18:11 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@compuserve.com>
X-To: <Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com>
Subject: Undeliverable message
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.23728.19961028162105@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

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	id TAA11947; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:17:58 -0500
	id QAA23508; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:13:14 -0800
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 1995 09:24:29 +1000
X-To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
From: Alastair <alastair.lyon@jcu.edu.au>
Subject: My Freewheel hubs....
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.23495.19961028161246@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

Okay, I took all of your advice and jacked up the front wheels
(independantly! I only have one jack!)...the side that has the "locked"
freewheel hub (ie the one that won't get out of 4x4) rotates easily; the
front propshaft doesnt rotate (and the hub is in 4x4!)...on the other side,
it does what I expected it to: when it's jacked up, and clicked into 4x4,
then rotated, the front prop shaft spins....nothing moves except the wheel
when its in 4x2.

Now, the side that works well is the side that spits oil all over my wheel;
so I guess this FWH needs it's gasket replaced?

On the OTHER side (that is buggered), I guess I need to top the CV joint up
with 90wt oil, then strip the FWH, and soak it in oil, replace the gasket
and hope for the best right?

in the mean time, no 4wd'ing if one hub rekons its in 4x4, but the front
prop shaft doesn't move...I'll screw my front end up right?

Not what I plan to do...:>

Thanks all!

Alastair

*****************************************
*Alastair Lyon                                               *
** 1979 ex-Military Police Series III two door  *
*2.6L Rover 6 cyl.  			   *
*Townsville, Australia                                    *
*****************************************

------------------------------

Date: 28 Oct 96 19:30:35 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Undeliverable message

Your message could not be delivered for the following reason:

Mailbox 100766.1022 is currently full.
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--- Returned message ---

	id TAA15406; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:30:21 -0500
	id QAA23847; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:25:35 -0800
From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
X-To: "'Land Rover Net'" <LRO@playground.sun.com>
Subject: 1983 Rangie For Sale in Australia
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 96 11:26:00 EST
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.23836.19961028162527@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

My wife tells me that 2 Range Rovers are too many so one has to go.

It is a March 1983 4-door Range Rover, colour Silver Sable.  4-speed manual 
box.  I think it has the "overdrive" transfer case (not the separate 
overdrive).  It has a genuine 125,000 km on the clock.  Interior, body and 
paint is excellent.  Fitted with 7" x 15" BWA mags (5 off) - good rubber. 
 Bull bar with provision for winch (not supplied).  Hayman-Reese tow hitch. 
 Pioneer stereo and amplifier.  Air Cond, power steer.
9.35:1 High Compression motor.

NO RUST 8->

Price A$ 16,500 ONO

I don't necessarily want to part with it but we do have the 87 RR auto.  The 
only reason we changed to the auto was because my wife broke her left foot 
and couldn't operate the clutch anymore.  We have only had the car a couple 
of months.  It is a good one - it was the only second hand RR on Asquith & 
Johnstones lot (Sydney LR Dealer) when we went looking (I'd just been 
gazumped on a 78 SIII LR diesel station wagon)..

Ron Beckett
Sydney, Australia
tel: (02) 9339-6921 work
fax: (02) 9339-6929 work
tel: (047) 35-6883 Home

------------------------------

Date: 28 Oct 96 19:33:26 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Undeliverable message

Your message could not be delivered for the following reason:

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	id TAA16289; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:33:15 -0500
	id QAA23930; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:28:31 -0800
Date: 28 Oct 96 19:26:15 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@compuserve.com>
X-To: <Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com>
Subject: Undeliverable message
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
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	id TAA14189; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:25:56 -0500
	id QAA23747; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:21:20 -0800
Date: 28 Oct 96 19:18:11 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@compuserve.com>
X-To: <Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com>
Subject: Undeliverable message
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.23728.19961028162105@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

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	id TAA11947; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:17:58 -0500
	id QAA23508; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:13:14 -0800
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 1995 09:24:29 +1000
X-To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
From: Alastair <alastair.lyon@jcu.edu.au>
Subject: My Freewheel hubs....
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.23495.19961028161246@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

Okay, I took all of your advice and jacked up the front wheels
(independantly! I only have one jack!)...the side that has the "locked"
freewheel hub (ie the one that won't get out of 4x4) rotates easily; the
front propshaft doesnt rotate (and the hub is in 4x4!)...on the other side,
it does what I expected it to: when it's jacked up, and clicked into 4x4,
then rotated, the front prop shaft spins....nothing moves except the wheel
when its in 4x2.

Now, the side that works well is the side that spits oil all over my wheel;
so I guess this FWH needs it's gasket replaced?

On the OTHER side (that is buggered), I guess I need to top the CV joint up
with 90wt oil, then strip the FWH, and soak it in oil, replace the gasket
and hope for the best right?

in the mean time, no 4wd'ing if one hub rekons its in 4x4, but the front
prop shaft doesn't move...I'll screw my front end up right?

Not what I plan to do...:>

Thanks all!

Alastair

*****************************************
*Alastair Lyon                                               *
** 1979 ex-Military Police Series III two door  *
*2.6L Rover 6 cyl.  			   *
*Townsville, Australia                                    *
*****************************************

------------------------------

Date: 28 Oct 96 19:38:29 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Undeliverable message

Your message could not be delivered for the following reason:

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	id TAA17615; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:38:18 -0500
	id QAA24145; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:33:42 -0800
Date: 28 Oct 96 19:30:35 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@compuserve.com>
X-To: <Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com>
Subject: Undeliverable message
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
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	id TAA15406; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:30:21 -0500
	id QAA23847; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:25:35 -0800
From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
X-To: "'Land Rover Net'" <LRO@playground.sun.com>
Subject: 1983 Rangie For Sale in Australia
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 96 11:26:00 EST
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.23836.19961028162527@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

My wife tells me that 2 Range Rovers are too many so one has to go.

It is a March 1983 4-door Range Rover, colour Silver Sable.  4-speed manual 
box.  I think it has the "overdrive" transfer case (not the separate 
overdrive).  It has a genuine 125,000 km on the clock.  Interior, body and 
paint is excellent.  Fitted with 7" x 15" BWA mags (5 off) - good rubber. 
 Bull bar with provision for winch (not supplied).  Hayman-Reese tow hitch. 
 Pioneer stereo and amplifier.  Air Cond, power steer.
9.35:1 High Compression motor.

NO RUST 8->

Price A$ 16,500 ONO

I don't necessarily want to part with it but we do have the 87 RR auto.  The 
only reason we changed to the auto was because my wife broke her left foot 
and couldn't operate the clutch anymore.  We have only had the car a couple 
of months.  It is a good one - it was the only second hand RR on Asquith & 
Johnstones lot (Sydney LR Dealer) when we went looking (I'd just been 
gazumped on a 78 SIII LR diesel station wagon)..

Ron Beckett
Sydney, Australia
tel: (02) 9339-6921 work
fax: (02) 9339-6929 work
tel: (047) 35-6883 Home

------------------------------

Date: 28 Oct 96 19:40:43 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Undeliverable message

Your message could not be delivered for the following reason:

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	id TAA18207; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:40:34 -0500
	id QAA24244; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:35:55 -0800
Date: 28 Oct 96 19:33:26 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@compuserve.com>
X-To: <Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com>
Subject: Undeliverable message
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	id TAA16289; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:33:15 -0500
	id QAA23930; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:28:31 -0800
Date: 28 Oct 96 19:26:15 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@compuserve.com>
X-To: <Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com>
Subject: Undeliverable message
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
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	id TAA14189; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:25:56 -0500
	id QAA23747; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:21:20 -0800
Date: 28 Oct 96 19:18:11 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@compuserve.com>
X-To: <Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com>
Subject: Undeliverable message
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.23728.19961028162105@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

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	id TAA11947; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:17:58 -0500
	id QAA23508; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:13:14 -0800
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 1995 09:24:29 +1000
X-To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
From: Alastair <alastair.lyon@jcu.edu.au>
Subject: My Freewheel hubs....
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.23495.19961028161246@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

Okay, I took all of your advice and jacked up the front wheels
(independantly! I only have one jack!)...the side that has the "locked"
freewheel hub (ie the one that won't get out of 4x4) rotates easily; the
front propshaft doesnt rotate (and the hub is in 4x4!)...on the other side,
it does what I expected it to: when it's jacked up, and clicked into 4x4,
then rotated, the front prop shaft spins....nothing moves except the wheel
when its in 4x2.

Now, the side that works well is the side that spits oil all over my wheel;
so I guess this FWH needs it's gasket replaced?

On the OTHER side (that is buggered), I guess I need to top the CV joint up
with 90wt oil, then strip the FWH, and soak it in oil, replace the gasket
and hope for the best right?

in the mean time, no 4wd'ing if one hub rekons its in 4x4, but the front
prop shaft doesn't move...I'll screw my front end up right?

Not what I plan to do...:>

Thanks all!

Alastair

*****************************************
*Alastair Lyon                                               *
** 1979 ex-Military Police Series III two door  *
*2.6L Rover 6 cyl.  			   *
*Townsville, Australia                                    *
*****************************************

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 18:07:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Range Rover Roof Lining

>interior roof lining in my January '87 Rangie has started to drop over 
>the driver's seat area

Here's a solution that I saved from a previous post:

Subject:     Headliner repair--$50
Sent:        9/12/96 1:21 PM
From:        shaunc@infi.net

From:	shaunc@infi.net (Shaun Carrigan)
Reply-to:	shaunc@infi.net
To:	rro@playground.sun.com
I finally got fed up with the drooping headliner in my RR and decided to 
try the DIY route. It was easier than I expected and at $50 for 
materials a big savings over the $200 plus I was quoted. It's a one 
afternoon job if you get your materials together first and have a 
willing assistant. Here's a basic rundown.

1. Obtain new headliner fabric by locating trim shop in your area that 
does Range Rovers. Find out where your local dealership takes its 
vehicles. It's extra-wide material and can be hard to find. It takes 
three yards and cost me $40. Take sample of the old so you can match.

2. You need two 12 oz cans of heavy duty spray adhesive. I used 
Permatex. Make sure it's billed as permanent, industrial grade, 
multi-purpose. Cost, about $5 a can.

3. Take out dome light fuse or disconnect battery. Take out the spare 
tire, lower the seat backs, unbolt the upper seat belt restraints, pop 
out the four round snap fasteners located in the rear headliner -- two 
above the quarter glass and two on the back edge near the hinges. A claw 
hammer slipped over the heads and pulled straight will remove them 
cleanly.

4. Open sunroof. Carefully pull off the gasket, pry off the eight 
retaining clips (save them), and peel the fabric away from the metal 
frame. It's held down by double stick tape.

5. Remove courtesy handles, sunshades, dome lights. An electric 
screwdriver or drill will really speed this up as there are a lot of 
screws. Keep them organized.

6. Get your assistant and remove the headliner by sliding the back edge 
forward slightly, over the lip above rear glass, and lowering. 
Disconnect speaker wires. Carefully slide the headliner out the rear.

7. Lay the headliner on a clean flat surface. Pull off the sagging 
fabric. COMPLETELY REMOVE all traces of foam rubber and loose material 
remaining on the headliner using a stiff brush.

8. Lay the new material on the headliner and distribute evenly. Then, 
fold it back on itself exactly halfway, lengthwise, so you spray the 
adhesive on half the headliner and half the new material at the same 
time. Both surfaces must be covered to get a good bond. Put it on 
heavily. I used a whole can per side. Let dry for a few minutes then, 
with your assistant, carefully press the material into place beginning 
in the middle and and working toward the corners. Press evenly and 
completely, working into the dips and curves. Then repeat for the 
remaining side.

9. Use a marker to indicate all the screw and fastener holes on the new 
fabric. Slide back into vehicle and begin fastening into place. Poke 
holes as needed through the fabric.

10. Cut hole for sunroof opening. Leave plenty of extra material around 
the edge so that it can stretch up and over the metal lip of the inner 
roof. Apply double stick tape around the edge, press the material into 
place, apply the eight retainer clips. Trim off an excess and replace 
the gasket. You're done.

Shaun Carrigan
'88 RR

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
Middleton, WI  53562
1-800-373-7226

------------------------------

Date: 28 Oct 96 19:46:35 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Undeliverable message

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	id TAA19905; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:46:20 -0500
	id QAA24337; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:41:13 -0800
Date: 28 Oct 96 19:38:29 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@compuserve.com>
X-To: <Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com>
Subject: Undeliverable message
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.24326.19961028164105@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

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	id TAA17615; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:38:18 -0500
	id QAA24145; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:33:42 -0800
Date: 28 Oct 96 19:30:35 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@compuserve.com>
X-To: <Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com>
Subject: Undeliverable message
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.24134.19961028163333@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

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	id TAA15406; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:30:21 -0500
	id QAA23847; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:25:35 -0800
From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
X-To: "'Land Rover Net'" <LRO@playground.sun.com>
Subject: 1983 Rangie For Sale in Australia
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 96 11:26:00 EST
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.23836.19961028162527@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

My wife tells me that 2 Range Rovers are too many so one has to go.

It is a March 1983 4-door Range Rover, colour Silver Sable.  4-speed manual 
box.  I think it has the "overdrive" transfer case (not the separate 
overdrive).  It has a genuine 125,000 km on the clock.  Interior, body and 
paint is excellent.  Fitted with 7" x 15" BWA mags (5 off) - good rubber. 
 Bull bar with provision for winch (not supplied).  Hayman-Reese tow hitch. 
 Pioneer stereo and amplifier.  Air Cond, power steer.
9.35:1 High Compression motor.

NO RUST 8->

Price A$ 16,500 ONO

I don't necessarily want to part with it but we do have the 87 RR auto.  The 
only reason we changed to the auto was because my wife broke her left foot 
and couldn't operate the clutch anymore.  We have only had the car a couple 
of months.  It is a good one - it was the only second hand RR on Asquith & 
Johnstones lot (Sydney LR Dealer) when we went looking (I'd just been 
gazumped on a 78 SIII LR diesel station wagon)..

Ron Beckett
Sydney, Australia
tel: (02) 9339-6921 work
fax: (02) 9339-6929 work
tel: (047) 35-6883 Home

------------------------------

Date: 28 Oct 96 19:48:53 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Undeliverable message

Your message could not be delivered for the following reason:

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	id TAA20571; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:48:40 -0500
	id QAA24448; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:44:14 -0800
Date: 28 Oct 96 19:40:43 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@compuserve.com>
X-To: <Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com>
Subject: Undeliverable message
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
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	id TAA18207; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:40:34 -0500
	id QAA24244; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:35:55 -0800
Date: 28 Oct 96 19:33:26 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@compuserve.com>
X-To: <Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com>
Subject: Undeliverable message
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	id TAA16289; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:33:15 -0500
	id QAA23930; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:28:31 -0800
Date: 28 Oct 96 19:26:15 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@compuserve.com>
X-To: <Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com>
Subject: Undeliverable message
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
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	id TAA14189; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:25:56 -0500
	id QAA23747; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:21:20 -0800
Date: 28 Oct 96 19:18:11 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@compuserve.com>
X-To: <Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com>
Subject: Undeliverable message
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.23728.19961028162105@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

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	id TAA11947; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:17:58 -0500
	id QAA23508; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:13:14 -0800
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 1995 09:24:29 +1000
X-To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
From: Alastair <alastair.lyon@jcu.edu.au>
Subject: My Freewheel hubs....
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.23495.19961028161246@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

Okay, I took all of your advice and jacked up the front wheels
(independantly! I only have one jack!)...the side that has the "locked"
freewheel hub (ie the one that won't get out of 4x4) rotates easily; the
front propshaft doesnt rotate (and the hub is in 4x4!)...on the other side,
it does what I expected it to: when it's jacked up, and clicked into 4x4,
then rotated, the front prop shaft spins....nothing moves except the wheel
when its in 4x2.

Now, the side that works well is the side that spits oil all over my wheel;
so I guess this FWH needs it's gasket replaced?

On the OTHER side (that is buggered), I guess I need to top the CV joint up
with 90wt oil, then strip the FWH, and soak it in oil, replace the gasket
and hope for the best right?

in the mean time, no 4wd'ing if one hub rekons its in 4x4, but the front
prop shaft doesn't move...I'll screw my front end up right?

Not what I plan to do...:>

Thanks all!

Alastair

*****************************************
*Alastair Lyon                                               *
** 1979 ex-Military Police Series III two door  *
*2.6L Rover 6 cyl.  			   *
*Townsville, Australia                                    *
*****************************************

------------------------------

Date: 28 Oct 96 19:50:11 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Undeliverable message

Your message could not be delivered for the following reason:

Mailbox 100766.1022 is currently full.
Please resend your message at a later time.

--- Returned message ---

	id TAA20882; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:49:52 -0500
	id QAA24464; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:44:42 -0800
From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 18:07:13 -0500
X-To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
Subject: Re: Range Rover Roof Lining
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.24440.19961028164412@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

>interior roof lining in my January '87 Rangie has started to drop over 
>the driver's seat area
Here's a solution that I saved from a previous post:

Subject:     Headliner repair--$50
Sent:        9/12/96 1:21 PM
From:        shaunc@infi.net

From:	shaunc@infi.net (Shaun Carrigan)
Reply-to:	shaunc@infi.net
To:	rro@playground.sun.com
I finally got fed up with the drooping headliner in my RR and decided to 
try the DIY route. It was easier than I expected and at $50 for 
materials a big savings over the $200 plus I was quoted. It's a one 
afternoon job if you get your materials together first and have a 
willing assistant. Here's a basic rundown.

1. Obtain new headliner fabric by locating trim shop in your area that 
does Range Rovers. Find out where your local dealership takes its 
vehicles. It's extra-wide material and can be hard to find. It takes 
three yards and cost me $40. Take sample of the old so you can match.

2. You need two 12 oz cans of heavy duty spray adhesive. I used 
Permatex. Make sure it's billed as permanent, industrial grade, 
multi-purpose. Cost, about $5 a can.

3. Take out dome light fuse or disconnect battery. Take out the spare 
tire, lower the seat backs, unbolt the upper seat belt restraints, pop 
out the four round snap fasteners located in the rear headliner -- two 
above the quarter glass and two on the back edge near the hinges. A claw 
hammer slipped over the heads and pulled straight will remove them 
cleanly.

4. Open sunroof. Carefully pull off the gasket, pry off the eight 
retaining clips (save them), and peel the fabric away from the metal 
frame. It's held down by double stick tape.

5. Remove courtesy handles, sunshades, dome lights. An electric 
screwdriver or drill will really speed this up as there are a lot of 
screws. Keep them organized.

6. Get your assistant and remove the headliner by sliding the back edge 
forward slightly, over the lip above rear glass, and lowering. 
Disconnect speaker wires. Carefully slide the headliner out the rear.

7. Lay the headliner on a clean flat surface. Pull off the sagging 
fabric. COMPLETELY REMOVE all traces of foam rubber and loose material 
remaining on the headliner using a stiff brush.

8. Lay the new material on the headliner and distribute evenly. Then, 
fold it back on itself exactly halfway, lengthwise, so you spray the 
adhesive on half the headliner and half the new material at the same 
time. Both surfaces must be covered to get a good bond. Put it on 
heavily. I used a whole can per side. Let dry for a few minutes then, 
with your assistant, carefully press the material into place beginning 
in the middle and and working toward the corners. Press evenly and 
completely, working into the dips and curves. Then repeat for the 
remaining side.

9. Use a marker to indicate all the screw and fastener holes on the new 
fabric. Slide back into vehicle and begin fastening into place. Poke 
holes as needed through the fabric.

10. Cut hole for sunroof opening. Leave plenty of extra material around 
the edge so that it can stretch up and over the metal lip of the inner 
roof. Apply double stick tape around the edge, press the material into 
place, apply the eight retainer clips. Trim off an excess and replace 
the gasket. You're done.

Shaun Carrigan
'88 RR

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
Middleton, WI  53562
1-800-373-7226

------------------------------

Date: 28 Oct 96 19:54:09 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Undeliverable message

Your message could not be delivered for the following reason:

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	id TAA22017; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:53:59 -0500
	id QAA24634; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:49:34 -0800
Date: 28 Oct 96 19:46:35 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@compuserve.com>
X-To: <Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com>
Subject: Undeliverable message
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.24621.19961028164918@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

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	id TAA19905; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:46:20 -0500
	id QAA24337; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:41:13 -0800
Date: 28 Oct 96 19:38:29 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@compuserve.com>
X-To: <Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com>
Subject: Undeliverable message
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.24326.19961028164105@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

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	id TAA17615; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:38:18 -0500
	id QAA24145; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:33:42 -0800
Date: 28 Oct 96 19:30:35 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@compuserve.com>
X-To: <Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com>
Subject: Undeliverable message
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.24134.19961028163333@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

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--- Returned message ---

	id TAA15406; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:30:21 -0500
	id QAA23847; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:25:35 -0800
From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
X-To: "'Land Rover Net'" <LRO@playground.sun.com>
Subject: 1983 Rangie For Sale in Australia
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 96 11:26:00 EST
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.23836.19961028162527@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

My wife tells me that 2 Range Rovers are too many so one has to go.

It is a March 1983 4-door Range Rover, colour Silver Sable.  4-speed manual 
box.  I think it has the "overdrive" transfer case (not the separate 
overdrive).  It has a genuine 125,000 km on the clock.  Interior, body and 
paint is excellent.  Fitted with 7" x 15" BWA mags (5 off) - good rubber. 
 Bull bar with provision for winch (not supplied).  Hayman-Reese tow hitch. 
 Pioneer stereo and amplifier.  Air Cond, power steer.
9.35:1 High Compression motor.

NO RUST 8->

Price A$ 16,500 ONO

I don't necessarily want to part with it but we do have the 87 RR auto.  The 
only reason we changed to the auto was because my wife broke her left foot 
and couldn't operate the clutch anymore.  We have only had the car a couple 
of months.  It is a good one - it was the only second hand RR on Asquith & 
Johnstones lot (Sydney LR Dealer) when we went looking (I'd just been 
gazumped on a 78 SIII LR diesel station wagon)..

Ron Beckett
Sydney, Australia
tel: (02) 9339-6921 work
fax: (02) 9339-6929 work
tel: (047) 35-6883 Home

------------------------------

Date: 28 Oct 96 19:56:38 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Undeliverable message

Your message could not be delivered for the following reason:

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	id TAA22617; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:56:27 -0500
	id QAA24709; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:51:57 -0800
Date: 28 Oct 96 19:48:53 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@compuserve.com>
X-To: <Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com>
Subject: Undeliverable message
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.24693.19961028165123@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

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	id TAA20571; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:48:40 -0500
	id QAA24448; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:44:14 -0800
Date: 28 Oct 96 19:40:43 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@compuserve.com>
X-To: <Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com>
Subject: Undeliverable message
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
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	id TAA18207; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:40:34 -0500
	id QAA24244; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:35:55 -0800
Date: 28 Oct 96 19:33:26 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@compuserve.com>
X-To: <Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com>
Subject: Undeliverable message
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
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	id TAA16289; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:33:15 -0500
	id QAA23930; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:28:31 -0800
Date: 28 Oct 96 19:26:15 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@compuserve.com>
X-To: <Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com>
Subject: Undeliverable message
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.23905.19961028162808@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

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	id TAA14189; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:25:56 -0500
	id QAA23747; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:21:20 -0800
Date: 28 Oct 96 19:18:11 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@compuserve.com>
X-To: <Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com>
Subject: Undeliverable message
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.23728.19961028162105@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

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	id TAA11947; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:17:58 -0500
	id QAA23508; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:13:14 -0800
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 1995 09:24:29 +1000
X-To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
From: Alastair <alastair.lyon@jcu.edu.au>
Subject: My Freewheel hubs....
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.23495.19961028161246@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

Okay, I took all of your advice and jacked up the front wheels
(independantly! I only have one jack!)...the side that has the "locked"
freewheel hub (ie the one that won't get out of 4x4) rotates easily; the
front propshaft doesnt rotate (and the hub is in 4x4!)...on the other side,
it does what I expected it to: when it's jacked up, and clicked into 4x4,
then rotated, the front prop shaft spins....nothing moves except the wheel
when its in 4x2.

Now, the side that works well is the side that spits oil all over my wheel;
so I guess this FWH needs it's gasket replaced?

On the OTHER side (that is buggered), I guess I need to top the CV joint up
with 90wt oil, then strip the FWH, and soak it in oil, replace the gasket
and hope for the best right?

in the mean time, no 4wd'ing if one hub rekons its in 4x4, but the front
prop shaft doesn't move...I'll screw my front end up right?

Not what I plan to do...:>

Thanks all!

Alastair

*****************************************
*Alastair Lyon                                               *
** 1979 ex-Military Police Series III two door  *
*2.6L Rover 6 cyl.  			   *
*Townsville, Australia                                    *
*****************************************

------------------------------

Date: 28 Oct 96 19:58:34 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Undeliverable message

Your message could not be delivered for the following reason:

Mailbox 100766.1022 is currently full.
Please resend your message at a later time.

--- Returned message ---

	id TAA23073; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:58:16 -0500
	id QAA24821; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:53:52 -0800
Date: 28 Oct 96 19:50:11 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@compuserve.com>
X-To: <Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com>
Subject: Undeliverable message
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.24790.19961028165329@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

Your message could not be delivered for the following reason:

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--- Returned message ---

	id TAA20882; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:49:52 -0500
	id QAA24464; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:44:42 -0800
From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 18:07:13 -0500
X-To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
Subject: Re: Range Rover Roof Lining
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.24440.19961028164412@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

>interior roof lining in my January '87 Rangie has started to drop over 
>the driver's seat area
Here's a solution that I saved from a previous post:

Subject:     Headliner repair--$50
Sent:        9/12/96 1:21 PM
From:        shaunc@infi.net

From:	shaunc@infi.net (Shaun Carrigan)
Reply-to:	shaunc@infi.net
To:	rro@playground.sun.com
I finally got fed up with the drooping headliner in my RR and decided to 
try the DIY route. It was easier than I expected and at $50 for 
materials a big savings over the $200 plus I was quoted. It's a one 
afternoon job if you get your materials together first and have a 
willing assistant. Here's a basic rundown.

1. Obtain new headliner fabric by locating trim shop in your area that 
does Range Rovers. Find out where your local dealership takes its 
vehicles. It's extra-wide material and can be hard to find. It takes 
three yards and cost me $40. Take sample of the old so you can match.

2. You need two 12 oz cans of heavy duty spray adhesive. I used 
Permatex. Make sure it's billed as permanent, industrial grade, 
multi-purpose. Cost, about $5 a can.

3. Take out dome light fuse or disconnect battery. Take out the spare 
tire, lower the seat backs, unbolt the upper seat belt restraints, pop 
out the four round snap fasteners located in the rear headliner -- two 
above the quarter glass and two on the back edge near the hinges. A claw 
hammer slipped over the heads and pulled straight will remove them 
cleanly.

4. Open sunroof. Carefully pull off the gasket, pry off the eight 
retaining clips (save them), and peel the fabric away from the metal 
frame. It's held down by double stick tape.

5. Remove courtesy handles, sunshades, dome lights. An electric 
screwdriver or drill will really speed this up as there are a lot of 
screws. Keep them organized.

6. Get your assistant and remove the headliner by sliding the back edge 
forward slightly, over the lip above rear glass, and lowering. 
Disconnect speaker wires. Carefully slide the headliner out the rear.

7. Lay the headliner on a clean flat surface. Pull off the sagging 
fabric. COMPLETELY REMOVE all traces of foam rubber and loose material 
remaining on the headliner using a stiff brush.

8. Lay the new material on the headliner and distribute evenly. Then, 
fold it back on itself exactly halfway, lengthwise, so you spray the 
adhesive on half the headliner and half the new material at the same 
time. Both surfaces must be covered to get a good bond. Put it on 
heavily. I used a whole can per side. Let dry for a few minutes then, 
with your assistant, carefully press the material into place beginning 
in the middle and and working toward the corners. Press evenly and 
completely, working into the dips and curves. Then repeat for the 
remaining side.

9. Use a marker to indicate all the screw and fastener holes on the new 
fabric. Slide back into vehicle and begin fastening into place. Poke 
holes as needed through the fabric.

10. Cut hole for sunroof opening. Leave plenty of extra material around 
the edge so that it can stretch up and over the metal lip of the inner 
roof. Apply double stick tape around the edge, press the material into 
place, apply the eight retainer clips. Trim off an excess and replace 
the gasket. You're done.

Shaun Carrigan
'88 RR

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
Middleton, WI  53562
1-800-373-7226

------------------------------

Date: 28 Oct 96 20:03:22 EST
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Date: 28 Oct 96 19:54:09 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@compuserve.com>
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From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@compuserve.com>
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	id QAA24145; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:33:42 -0800
Date: 28 Oct 96 19:30:35 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@compuserve.com>
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	id TAA15406; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:30:21 -0500
	id QAA23847; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:25:35 -0800
From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
X-To: "'Land Rover Net'" <LRO@playground.sun.com>
Subject: 1983 Rangie For Sale in Australia
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 96 11:26:00 EST
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.23836.19961028162527@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

My wife tells me that 2 Range Rovers are too many so one has to go.

It is a March 1983 4-door Range Rover, colour Silver Sable.  4-speed manual 
box.  I think it has the "overdrive" transfer case (not the separate 
overdrive).  It has a genuine 125,000 km on the clock.  Interior, body and 
paint is excellent.  Fitted with 7" x 15" BWA mags (5 off) - good rubber. 
 Bull bar with provision for winch (not supplied).  Hayman-Reese tow hitch. 
 Pioneer stereo and amplifier.  Air Cond, power steer.
9.35:1 High Compression motor.

NO RUST 8->

Price A$ 16,500 ONO

I don't necessarily want to part with it but we do have the 87 RR auto.  The 
only reason we changed to the auto was because my wife broke her left foot 
and couldn't operate the clutch anymore.  We have only had the car a couple 
of months.  It is a good one - it was the only second hand RR on Asquith & 
Johnstones lot (Sydney LR Dealer) when we went looking (I'd just been 
gazumped on a 78 SIII LR diesel station wagon)..

Ron Beckett
Sydney, Australia
tel: (02) 9339-6921 work
fax: (02) 9339-6929 work
tel: (047) 35-6883 Home

------------------------------

Date: 28 Oct 96 20:04:08 EST
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	id TAA11947; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:17:58 -0500
	id QAA23508; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:13:14 -0800
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 1995 09:24:29 +1000
X-To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
From: Alastair <alastair.lyon@jcu.edu.au>
Subject: My Freewheel hubs....
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.23495.19961028161246@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

Okay, I took all of your advice and jacked up the front wheels
(independantly! I only have one jack!)...the side that has the "locked"
freewheel hub (ie the one that won't get out of 4x4) rotates easily; the
front propshaft doesnt rotate (and the hub is in 4x4!)...on the other side,
it does what I expected it to: when it's jacked up, and clicked into 4x4,
then rotated, the front prop shaft spins....nothing moves except the wheel
when its in 4x2.

Now, the side that works well is the side that spits oil all over my wheel;
so I guess this FWH needs it's gasket replaced?

On the OTHER side (that is buggered), I guess I need to top the CV joint up
with 90wt oil, then strip the FWH, and soak it in oil, replace the gasket
and hope for the best right?

in the mean time, no 4wd'ing if one hub rekons its in 4x4, but the front
prop shaft doesn't move...I'll screw my front end up right?

Not what I plan to do...:>

Thanks all!

Alastair

*****************************************
*Alastair Lyon                                               *
** 1979 ex-Military Police Series III two door  *
*2.6L Rover 6 cyl.  			   *
*Townsville, Australia                                    *
*****************************************

------------------------------

Date: 28 Oct 96 20:07:11 EST
From: Electronic Postmaster <POSTMASTER@CompuServe.COM>
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Date: 28 Oct 96 19:58:34 EST
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	id QAA24821; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:53:52 -0800
Date: 28 Oct 96 19:50:11 EST
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	id TAA20882; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 19:49:52 -0500
	id QAA24464; Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:44:42 -0800
From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 18:07:13 -0500
X-To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
Subject: Re: Range Rover Roof Lining
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.24440.19961028164412@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

>interior roof lining in my January '87 Rangie has started to drop over 
>the driver's seat area
Here's a solution that I saved from a previous post:

Subject:     Headliner repair--$50
Sent:        9/12/96 1:21 PM
From:        shaunc@infi.net

From:	shaunc@infi.net (Shaun Carrigan)
Reply-to:	shaunc@infi.net
To:	rro@playground.sun.com
I finally got fed up with the drooping headliner in my RR and decided to 
try the DIY route. It was easier than I expected and at $50 for 
materials a big savings over the $200 plus I was quoted. It's a one 
afternoon job if you get your materials together first and have a 
willing assistant. Here's a basic rundown.

1. Obtain new headliner fabric by locating trim shop in your area that 
does Range Rovers. Find out where your local dealership takes its 
vehicles. It's extra-wide material and can be hard to find. It takes 
three yards and cost me $40. Take sample of the old so you can match.

2. You need two 12 oz cans of heavy duty spray adhesive. I used 
Permatex. Make sure it's billed as permanent, industrial grade, 
multi-purpose. Cost, about $5 a can.

3. Take out dome light fuse or disconnect battery. Take out the spare 
tire, lower the seat backs, unbolt the upper seat belt restraints, pop 
out the four round snap fasteners located in the rear headliner -- two 
above the quarter glass and two on the back edge near the hinges. A claw 
hammer slipped over the heads and pulled straight will remove them 
cleanly.

4. Open sunroof. Carefully pull off the gasket, pry off the eight 
retaining clips (save them), and peel the fabric away from the metal 
frame. It's held down by double stick tape.

5. Remove courtesy handles, sunshades, dome lights. An electric 
screwdriver or drill will really speed this up as there are a lot of 
screws. Keep them organized.

6. Get your assistant and remove the headliner by sliding the back edge 
forward slightly, over the lip above rear glass, and lowering. 
Disconnect speaker wires. Carefully slide the headliner out the rear.

7. Lay the headliner on a clean flat surface. Pull off the sagging 
fabric. COMPLETELY REMOVE all traces of foam rubber and loose material 
remaining on the headliner using a stiff brush.

8. Lay the new material on the headliner and distribute evenly. Then, 
fold it back on itself exactly halfway, lengthwise, so you spray the 
adhesive on half the headliner and half the new material at the same 
time. Both surfaces must be covered to get a good bond. Put it on 
heavily. I used a whole can per side. Let dry for a few minutes then, 
with your assistant, carefully press the material into place beginning 
in the middle and and working toward the corners. Press evenly and 
completely, working into the dips and curves. Then repeat for the 
remaining side.

9. Use a marker to indicate all the screw and fastener holes on the new 
fabric. Slide back into vehicle and begin fastening into place. Poke 
holes as needed through the fabric.

10. Cut hole for sunroof opening. Leave plenty of extra material around 
the edge so that it can stretch up and over the metal lip of the inner 
roof. Apply double stick tape around the edge, press the material into 
place, apply the eight retainer clips. Trim off an excess and replace 
the gasket. You're done.

Shaun Carrigan
'88 RR

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
Middleton, WI  53562
1-800-373-7226

------------------------------

From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 20:24:13 -0500
Subject: Air filters

The SIIA that I purchased recently has a Weber carb. on it.  The air filter
is a K&N.  Went to the autoparts store thinking it would be a fairly easy
match.  Took us about 15 minutes to match one up going by dimensions  and it
was a special order.

It arrived today.  When I got home and took a closer look at it, I noticed a
disclaimer on the box:  " Legal ONLY for racing vehicles.  NOT applicable,
nor intended for use on emission controlled vehicles."

Guess I'll have to race James Howard and his SIII so that I can call the  "
Soldado Sangrando" a racing vehicle.  :-)

LR ownership.... you never know what you'll discover next...

Gerry Elam
PHX  AZ
'96 Disco "Great White"
'63 Series IIA " Soldado Sangrando"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 14:46:00 -0800
From: Heather Dixon <hldixon@top.monad.net>
Subject: Boston area - Non Land Rover

My apologies for posting this on the digest but thought this would be the 
most adventageous way to do this.

Next month we are going to Boston to see the Nutcracker. I spent most of 
the weekend cruising the Web to find a decent restaurant before the show. 
Was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for an eating 
establishment other then fast food.

Please e-mail me direct as not to waste more space on the digest.

Thanks for your help.

Heather

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 20:46:17 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Suggestions

Gary Elam wrote:

> in light of a fairly sketchy history, should I consider preemptive actions
>like replacing the water pump?  Timing chain?  Suggestions?

Rule One is:  "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

*Listen* to the pump and chain first.  Fashion a mechanic's stethoscope out 
of a cheap disposable pair and a length of copper tube.  Listen to the pump 
(a bad one will definitely make some noise) and front timing cover.  Here, 
you are listening for a slight ticking sound that will signal that the chain 
tensioner has worked loose from its fixings.  If one of the bolts drops out, 
things are going to go to hell in a handbasket pretty damned quick.  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 20:41:00 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Chained again

Paul asks abour snow and ice...

>Lots of people have been talking about the performance of LR's in the snow
/ >icy conditions. I am curious as to their performance downhill on Icy road
>surfaces.

Never used chains here but there have been times when I wished I had them.
We had a very bad ice storm a few years back. I didn't have and sand handy
and used all the salt on the sidewalk by the house. Had to use the winch to
move my SerIII off the skating rink that I call a back yard! My driveway
sloped downhill to the road and that was a real hoot! Got my son to look out
for traffic and I just slid the truck down to the road.

4WD by itself doesn't do you a bit of good on glare ice. Now, as far as deep
snow with something that isn't icy underneath, it's a differant story. I've
pushed through snowdrifts that were breaking over the top of the wings while
running very agressive bias-ply mud/snow tires - and no chains. The deciding
factor was no ice on the road.. 

You really want some fun, try a frozen lake in the dead of winter.. That was
fun! Brakes have no meaning at all...

Cheers

Mike Loiodice
166 W. Fulton St.                  1965 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Faded Green     
Gloversville                       1972 SerIII 88 Petrol - Fern Camo
NY  12078  (USA)        7          1971 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Red and Blue
                     #:-}>         1964 Triumph Spitfire - BRG

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 20:41:03 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Overdrive Rebuild

Brett asks...

>I've been running without overdrive since but I'm doing a lot of
>highway miles these days and am missing the taller gears, so my question
>is...is it economical to rebuild the Fairey overdrive and has anybody on
>the list done it before?
-
You can rebuild it, but here in the States it would probably be cheaper to
buy a new one. Depends on what needs to be replaced..

>On a related note, how strong is the Fairey unit? I had no real trouble 
>with mine until it broke but in the last or so I've done some
>pretty serious off-roading on some pretty hairy trails and wonder if
>those tiny splines are strong enough for the really good trails. Any
>thoughts?

Considering those "tiny splines" normally aree in constant engagement, the
unit should be strong. There is some sort of grease that is supposed to be
applied to the splines before installing the overdrive... You are right,
they don't get any lubrication. 

Cheers
Mike Loiodice
166 W. Fulton St.                  1965 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Faded Green     
Gloversville                       1972 SerIII 88 Petrol - Fern Camo
NY  12078  (USA)        7          1971 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Red and Blue
                     #:-}>         1964 Triumph Spitfire - BRG

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 21:00:31 -0500
Subject: Re: SIII front end....continuation

In a message dated 96-10-28 14:18:14 EST, you write:

>>For what it is worth, sometime you get windup on the front drive that 
>>makes moving the free wheeling hubs in and out of lock a  problem.  I 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>hubs off the vehicle and with the 12 roller bearings out of the hub,  you
>turn them all the way to free
Sorry about that.....
I must have been half asleep and pushed the send button...continuing...
after this you need to turn the inner part of the hub to full
counterclockwise, then back just until  the roller bearings holes  line up,
insert the rest of the bearings and that should do it...
worked for me when mine were jamming and couldn't be turned more than a
little in either direction..
Hope this helps
Now I gotta get some sleep
Rgds
Steve Bradke     72 S lll 88 ( for sale )
                        68 S lla 88 
                        96 Discovery  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 04:22:44 +0200
From: nahari ofir <ofir_n@parker.inter.net.il>
Subject: Re: Depreciations & appreciations

At 04:07 PM 10/27/96 +1000, you wrote:
>Hello all..
>I remarked to a customer (who had his 4dr metallic Discovery automatic) 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
>http://users.hunterlink.net.au/~derf/swb/index.html
>Cheers Ross Fairclough.
Hi Ross
Just wanted to tell you I found my chasis Number !!!
It's on the outside of the right- front -front  spring hanger.
It's 2?4418859  .
Any comments?

Westerday I talked to someone who sells a 1962 s2 swb county (tropical roof)
and want's 5,000$ for it. He was very enthusiastic when he heard that someone 
is interested in series rovers. He offerd me to come visit him & let me have 
some parts for free !
He also said he know aboat some junk of "series" in a friends farm.
I'll let you know if I get anything.
p.s.
Sorry , but I don't remeber where you live in Au , is it in the west?
bye
Ofir 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 04:22:52 +0200
From: nahari ofir <ofir_n@parker.inter.net.il>
Subject: Re: Re: Parabolic Springs.

At 09:16 AM 10/27/96 EST, you wrote:
>David,

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 52 lines)]
>Regards,
>Ralph.
>101 Fc
Hi Ralph
I'm currently restoring my sIIa & sI. But my previous project was a Renault 4
And all I did was work on the suspension. The resaults are amazing. 
It's a very small and funny looking vehicle with 850cc engine.
All suspension is no independent ,it has FWD ,VERY high from the ground .
The suspension is based on bar springs (for each wheel) ,new shock absorbers ,
reinforced chasis .It's quite simple but very affective. If you are interested
I'll explain in more details.
Just for fun I took a bet to go down a stright 1.5m step(!) slowly agianst
Isusu 4x4 pickup . It was easy and the pickup guy decided to quit...
The difficult part for me was to adjust the steering afterwards because
distances changed in the frame. But off road it's great and comfortable.
bye
Ofir
Israel
ofir_n@inter.net.il

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 22:10:24 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: My Freewheel hubs....

Alastair sez...

>Okay, I took all of your advice and jacked up the front wheels
 (independantly! I only have one jack!)...the side that has the "locked"
 freewheel hub (ie the one that won't get out of 4x4) rotates easily; the
 front propshaft doesnt rotate (and the hub is in 4x4!)...on the other side,
 it does what I expected it to: when it's jacked up, and clicked into 4x4,
 then rotated, the front prop shaft spins....nothing moves except the wheel
 when its in 4x2.
-

Hmmm... sounds OK.. to really check, put both hubs in the locked position,
jack up the wheel with the frozen hub, make use the transfer case is *not*
in 4WD and turn the wheel. The prop shaft should turn. Or, if you have it in
4WD, the wheel should NOT turn, except for whatever play there is in the
drive-train.

>Now, the side that works well is the side that spits oil all over my wheel;
>so I guess this FWH needs it's gasket replaced?
-
Probably...

>On the OTHER side (that is buggered), I guess I need to top the CV joint up
>with 90wt oil, then strip the FWH, and soak it in oil, replace the gasket
>and hope for the best right?
-
Nope... remove the FWH and soak it in oil first. Then, when you have it
working right, replace it with a new gasket. Filling the hub and swivel ball
with 90wt is the last thing to do..

There has been a lot of static in the past about filling the hubs with 90wt
vs grease. My preference is 90wt. Since you have a SerIII, it's easy to fill
the hubs. One of the bolts holes that are used to hold the hub driving plate
- or FWH for the front - is drilled through to the center of the hub. To
determine which one, look at the bolt pattern. There are five lug bolts and
six center bolt holes. One of the center bolt holes is positioned almost
midway between two of the lug bolts. That will be the magic hole! When you
re-assemble the FWH to the hub, leave that bolt out temporarily. Rotate the
wheel so that the hole is at the top and put the correct amount of 90wt in
the hub through that bolt hole. 

>in the mean time, no 4wd'ing if one hub rekons its in 4x4, but the front
>prop shaft doesn't move...I'll screw my front end up right?

If the FWH that is frozen is actually in the locked position, you should be
able to lock in the other side and use 4WD with no problems.

Cheers
Mike Loiodice
166 W. Fulton St.                  1965 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Faded Green     
Gloversville                       1972 SerIII 88 Petrol - Fern Camo
NY  12078  (USA)        7          1971 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Red and Blue
                     #:-}>         1964 Triumph Spitfire - BRG

------------------------------

From: brstore@ibm.net
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 96 22:27:18 PST
Subject: Re:  Birmabright Brotherhood

If you don't know what this is all about. The Birmabright Brotherhood is a 
group of Land Rover Owners who have joined together as a self help roadside 
assistance fellowship. If you would like to become a member of this group 
email me direct and I'll send you more details.

Trevor Easton
trevor_easton@dofasco.ca

Trevor,

What is this Brimabright Brotherhood all about and how does one join?

Brett Storey
brstore@ibm.net

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 22:44:54 -0500
Subject: Re: OD breathers & grease...

Marin wrote:
I am curious about your greasing statement, however, because there was
nothing in the installation instructions about packing anything called a
clutch sleeve with grease, only a caution to check the oil level weekly.

The OD unit as new is provided with the grease in place. The instructions
refer to it as a "anti-chafing compound". I think they make mention of not
disturbing/removing it during installation, and that's about all. Whenever
the unit is removed after a period of service, the grease should be renewed,
probably after cleaning in that area. I didn't get that from anywhere but
experience and conscensus. When my OD failed, I was hard pressed to find the
existence of grease at all after about 170K miles.
 Someome was asking about OD breathers. If the OD is continually overflowing,
you might want pay attention to your trans fluid level as well. Does that run
down as well? It might be a faulty rear main seal in the tranny that actually
causes the OD to exude the 90W. 'Nicky' has a breather and a new rear seal,
and still occassionally the OD runs over, mostly after long, sustained
running. If you're to pull the OD and apply the Moly CV grease, you should
probably inspect the seal at that time. It's awfully close at that point.
It's kind of one of those things that if I see it, I replace it (provided
it's not too hard)....
see 'ya on the old road...
Jim '61 LR 88" SW  w/ 16's, OD 1 Bbl weber (econobox?)  "Nicky"
LR...quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised!  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 15:09:30 +1100 (EST)
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: LRO Australia

There is an au-lro mailing list  -  see Bill C's site

also the Land Rover Register (Aus) has web pages:-
   http://www.sofcom.com.au/4WD/LandRover/Series/S1.LRR/Intro.html
   (note the upper case letters)
run by 80" enthusiast Michael Bishop

and the LROC (Vic) is organising a 50th anniversary event

Lloyd

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 23:22:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Oily Ponderings (poor vital signs)

Dave comments on Adrian's dilema:
>If you don't hear the engine rattling when there is no pressure showing, 
>it is likely the sender or gauge when cold.  Try a real line gauge.  It 
>will register as soon as the engine is turning at any speed over a few 
>RPMs like with the starter turning a few seconds.

Adrian apparently already has two independent sources of oil pressure info,
the gauge and the warning light, agreeing that oil pressure is low when he
starts. Or do they both work off of the same sensor in a '76 SIII diesel? I
wouldn't drive it until I knew the oil pressure was okay.

I'm not sure about not hearing the engine rattling indicating okay oil
pressure. In an engine with hydraulic lifters (all recent american and many
others including Rover V8s) then the valve train will rattle if there is not
sufficent oil pressure to pump up the lifters, thus engine rattle indicating
low oil pressure.  With mechanical lifters (i.e. valve clearance is manually
adjusted as in the 2.25 LR engines) then valve rattle is independent of oil
pressure or lack there of. Other abnormal rattling heard accompanying low oil
pressure is likely to be abnormal wear. Besides Adrian has a diesel which
rattles until warm anyway.

My ideas on abnormal vehicle vitals:
Voltage/amperage low: worst that is probable is a dead battery. No other harm
likely. (Encourages cranking practice)
Voltage/amperage high: a more significant problem which could ruin the
battery, burn out lamps, etc if not remedied.
Water temperature high: engine is likely to overheat and boil off coolant,
prolonged driving could lead to cylinder head cracks.
Oil pressure low: stop driving as soon as safe, major engine damage can
result.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 21:28:25 -0800
From: Jeremy J Bartlett <Bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Long Re: Southdown Armor Installation Report and ?

Jim Pappas wrote:
> I installed Southdown protection on my NAS D90 with similar difficult realignment results when radius arms were detached. I used a nibbling tool in a couple ar
> It was a pain in the butt, but we used jacks, and tapers to get the bloody thing aligned again. It is together and the results were worth it, but I don't know
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> Cheers
> Jim

I eventually got it all back together after a long second day. My initial 
mistake was to just undue the radius arm bolts thinking I could fit it from
underneath.  I ended up removing both wheels and tackling the job from the
side.  In retrospect (with more thought) I should have started this way.

I ended up completely removing the left radius arm, reinstalling the bolts
at the front, using a come-along/hand winch to pull the axle forward (after
dropping the panhard arm) and then popping the radius arm back into
the chassis mount (literally less than a mm clearance at full pull).  
The right hand side went much better as having jockeyed
the left into position seemed to align the right- no radius arm removal
was required. Could have been dumb luck though.

Repositioning the panhard arm took some seesaw style bottle jacking, but
it eventually popped back in with no real trouble.

Overall the approach involved some slightly risky jacking, which required
planning out some safety blocks, but all came out OK.

I found one problem to be that the factory manual suggestions for
removal of the radii arms involve supporting the axle which unfortunately
blocks off the access for mounting the armor.
Getting around this took some judicious shuffling of jack locations (2
required). 

The best mounting order seems to be the front of the plate first.  Before
mounting the plate I replaced both bolts of both radius arms but only
drove the forward one in just flush with the inside (i.e. not "standing
proud").  The plate was then positioned (OK let's be honest - pounded into
place :) ), and the bolt inserted the remaining distance.  BTW this
is the reversal of the normal bolt position I was discussing.  The normal
bolt postion (nut outside) doesn't allow such positioning and would make
installation a nightmare.

Regarding the rear braces, the left side just fit (a tad tight).  The 
right side would not fit (out about 1/2") due to the mounting bracket
for the former anti-sway bar.   The plate is currently mounted, but I
need to go back in and trim either the sway-bar mount or the plate retainer.

This must be where you used the nibbler?

To make a long story short the Southdown plate can be mounted by dropping 
the anti-sway bar and trimming mounts but is not a direct mount to NAS
spec D90s (or probably D110s).  Careful jacking and axle standing with
lateral installation might make the job easier but its a bit of a bugger
for a DIY.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: Fitting Poly-bush set
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 10:16:59 +0100 (MET)

Hello Adam,

| I am wondering if anybody had any suggestions re. install of a polybush set. 
I've recently done that on my 110.

| I am considering using an air-chisel to get the old ones out and building a 
This will probably do the trick. I used the burn saw and hammer method to get
them out. Was no great deal. 
Applying penetrating oil to all the nuts involved for at least a week helps
much.
There are some other nasty things involved. To get the front radius arms out,
you need to take off the track rod. If the bolts of the radius arms (front 
and rear ) won't come out easily you need to push the rear axle back / front
axle forward with a highlift to get the the stress off the bolts.

| pressing device out of a C clamp to get the new ones in.  
If you have the ones from R.H.Engineering you will get them in with your
hands. At least you need a little hammer and a piece of wood. Dead easy!

Don't hesitat to ask if you have further questions.

Cheers,
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 11:54:00 +0100
From: "Geoffrey Said" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Subject: Engaging 4x4 on the move

I have a Series III 109" and reading in my post I am having the impression that 
I can engage 4x4 on the move.  Is this correct.  Any special procedures to 
follow so to eliminate any damage that can be done?

Geoffrey
Still learning

------------------------------

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