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Date: Fri, 27 Oct 1995 23:28:58 +1000
From: Alastair <alastair.lyon@jcu.edu.au>
Subject: SIII front end....

I'm getting around about 270 - 300 kms on my std two door tank under the
drivers seat (~70 L). Now, I do have free wheel hubs, but for many reasons
since I bought the car, they've stayed engaged in the 4x4 position. I went
to move them to 4x2 today for better fuel economy - one moves easily, the
other doesn't move at all!

So, should I enage both of them again in to 4x4, leave the one in 4x2 and
the opposite one on 4x4 - or pull them apart?

Aslo, on ths same area, the right hand free wheel hub leaks oil all over my
wheel (this is the one that DOES enge into 4x2) - whilst the other one
stays nice and clean. My mechanice told me that it's probably the CV joint
leaking oil - and the reason the one wheel stays clean is that there is no
oil in the CV joint on the clean wheel.

Sounds fine - I haven't had time to get it up on the hoist to check - but
I've never noticed on the immaculate SIII's with the nice white wheels oil
all over them! Maybe on my khaki wheels it's unnoticable, but white would
surely show it up! So, what's REALLY happening?

Also, for the Australians; do we have any turbo diesel Stage 1's, or 110's
here at all? I test drove a Turbo Diesel Dihatsu Rocky the other day, and
I've fallen in love with turbo diesel. Either I put one in my Series III,
and put up with the rattles and clunky gearbox, buy a Rocky (yeech!), or
get a turbo diesel Rover - I can't afford a defender!!!!!

Thanks in advance!

Alastair

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mein Hutt sie hat drei Ecken,
Drei Ecken hat mein Hutt.
Wenn mein Hutt hat nicht drei Ecken,
Dann sie sind nicht mein Hutt!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 15:08:58 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Oily Ponderings

Here's one for the oil experts on this net!

My 88" has an oil problem - when I start up, from cold, the oil pressure
indicator lamp (green) lights, and stays lit for about 5 minutes
driving. At startup the oil-pressure guage shows almost no pressure, but
after about 5 minutes goes up to around 15-20 psi, where it remains for
the rest of the journey.

Starting afresh with a warm engine gives no problems.

Normal oil pressure on the 88" used to be 25-30 psi (my 109" shows a
constant 35-40 psi from cold start to hot running, but this motor was
rebuilt/rebored 18 months ago, whereas the 88" was last rebuilt/rebored
in 1990)

The 88" shows absolutly no oil leaks on the frame, motor, or workshop
floor, where it is parked most of the time. The dipstick shows oil to
HI.

My conclusion - oil according to lucas = LOW - oil according to oil OK

any suggestions or sage advice welcome!
-- 
adrian redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
tel: +45 86 57 22 66  e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk

1:	Series III 1976 109" D Pick-up
2:	Series III 1979  88" D Hard top (Icelander)
---------------------------------------------------
"Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!"
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: RALPH@SMUGGITS.MHS.CompuServe.COM
Date: 27 Oct 96 09:16:09 EST
Subject: Re: Re: Parabolic Springs.

David,

Yes, this is the setup used on trucks, that's where I got the idea from 
and I am getting a specialist in truck conversions to do the work for me 
(they also do LR's.) The problem is that most trucks have an air option, 
thus there is invariably a specially designed spring for the application. 
Funnily enough there have not been many air conversions on 101's (none as 
far as I am aware, but four coil conversions that I know of.) 

I know this is heresy to some members of this list, but my 101 is being 
modified for a fairly specialist task and so long as I keep the general 
air of the vehicle I'm not to concerned with originality (it already runs 
on 35x12.5x15 BFG Muds, has a custom built body, new seats, fog and 
driving lights and loads of small mods.) What I am building it to do is 
to be a go anywhere expedition vehicle. If you have ever been in a 101 
(or any leaf-sprung landie, 101's are just worse than most) it is a 
jarring experience driving off, and occasionally on-road. Additionally as 
the springs are so stiff axle articulation is minimal unless heavily 
loaded. My aim with the conversion is to improve comfort on and off-road, 
reduce the stresses on the vehicle caused by hard terrain and improve 
it's off road ability. This has to be combined with durability. I have 
considered a coil conversion, but air is more versatile and additionally 
if I have problems with it I can convert it back (in the field) using the 
old springs. The setup I envisage would auto-level depending on load, 
allow manual inflation of the bags to raise and lower the vehicle as 
required, or to level the vehicle on side slopes and also have valving to 
reduce roll on the road and increase articulation and traction off it.

It does raise a lot of issues, but it seems worth the time and hassle and 
as I said, at worst I can go back to the original setup.

Regards,

Ralph.

101 Fc

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 10:20:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Turning indicator wiring in a '65 IIA

Chris sounds a wee bit frustrated as he tries rewiring:
>I found that the IIA shop manual has two bits of info on the turning 
>indicators:  jack and sh*t.  No diagrams, no instructions: squat, nil, nada,

>nuttin', zilch.

Flashers (turn signals) were technically optional on most IIAs thru suffix E,
although standard on SWs, so they were left off the wiring diagrams. My
factory II/IIA manual does include the flashers in the NADA 109 SW diagram
(pg 9-N), and while that was neg earth, the wiring should be the same for
positive earth. There are also several sections on flasher system component
r&r FWIW. Looks like another LR puzzle.

Regards,
David Cockey
Rochester, MI

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 08:28:39 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Workin on the Rover....

At  9:34 PM 10/26/96 -0400, GElam30092@aol.com wrote:

>The inside was fairly dirty so it received a good hosing.  Even used a litt=
le
>engine cleaner and a brush to get some of the dirt and old "?" out.  Got ou=
t
>the shop vac and picked up the water that didn=EDt drain out.

I have this sjprt rise at the side of the house.  Before hosing out the LR
I normally put the front up tje rise so the water would drain out.  If
you're a flatlander and just happen to have a pair of ramps, you just might
put the front on the ramps.

>Then, drained the oil and fitted the spin-on oil filter adapter.   Refilled
>it with oil and double-checked everything.

Did you swap the 2-1/4L canaster type for the stosk 2-1/2L spin on or go
with some sort of aftermarket adaptor?

<snip>
> Put everything back together and it worked.  Must have been a bad
>ground or something.  On a chronologically-challenged LR?  Go figure....

In my experience, the vast majority of "Lucas grimmlens" can be traced to
corroded connectors.  Thats why I carry 600 grit sand paper and a battery
terminal brush in my tool kit.  British Pacific carrys new Lucas barral
connectors, ground connectors and solder on wire connectors as well as
proper coloured & striped wires.  I think they are better than the US
style crimp on stuff and look more "right" on the car.

<snip>
>Three questions:  in light of a fairly sketchy history, should I consider
>preemptive actions like replacing the water pump?   Timing chain?
>  Suggestions?

If your timing chain rattles for several seconds at startupand a timing
light shows your timing wondering around at idle, you could consider a new
timing chain.  Otherwise don't worry about it.  A company in the UK
actually makes a set of gears that replace the chain and solves the problem
of chain strech.  If you would feel more secure with a new water pump, buy
one and put it in you're take on  trips spares box.  You are better off
just flushing your cooling system and adding new antifreeze now and a
bottle of water wetter next spring.

If you want to do something preemptive, purchase a new set of rear axles
and throw away your old ones. They crystalize over time and become more
likely to break.

> (Does preemptive work disqualify one from Lazy Bugger status?)

Not hardly! Breaking down on the trail from what appears to be poor
mantenece is a lot more likely to jeperdise your welcome on the trails.
Well maintined drive train, steering, suspension and brake systems are a
must for off roading, esp. if you have asperations for joining the gonzo
group.  No one appriciates being stuck behind a car that has blocked the
trail because they need to make a fix for a worm out part.

If you want to be preemptive, here is my top ten suggestion list:

1. replace rear axles.  Throw the old ones away.  If you want spares, get a
second new set for spares.

2. check all tie rod ends and replace any that are not tight and in very
good or better condition

3. Check the condition of your steering ball adjustment and for oil leaks
onto your front brake shoes. Rebuild as necessary

4. Check the condition of your 'U' joints on the driveshafts.  Replace if
not perfect.

5. Check your shock bushings. The donut shaped one probably has the inside
hole worn too large.  British Pacific sells new bushings.

6. Check your rubber brake hoses (one at each front wheel and at the rear
axle).  Replace if they look badly cracked  or swollen.  Carefully  clean
up your steel lines and inspect them.  Look for any signs of rust pitting.
If you find any, replace that line.  I had two separate brake failures on
the Green Rover from rust pin hole leaks, about 10 years appart.  The first
was on a steep mountain trail in the rain.  I had fun getting it off the
hill & down to civilization using low range and the hand brake (make sure
yours works & keep it adjusted).  After the second hole, I replaced all my
steel lines (I also converted to a dual power brake sytem).

7. Change all the fluids, brake, diffs. transmission, etc.  Its supposed to
be done periodically and most people don't.  Check the fluid levels
frequently untill you have a feel about leaks.

8. Consider swaping out the brass axle breathers with the newer Defender
style.  It will decrease pressure and may stop pinion seal leaks.

9. Look at your engine and transmission mounts. Put a jack under the
various parts & lift a little to see if the mount separates.  If you really
want to be preemptive, replace your mounts unless the old ones are like
new.  A couple of people on the list have had mounts seperate on off road
trips.  Having a fan go into your radiator can ruin your day and those of
anyone else behind you in the trail.

10. Go over the underside of your car, looking at each section carefully
and shaking things. Tighten and replace as needed.

My 109 sounded like a galvanized bucket with loose bolts being shaken when
I first had her  and drove her over a speed bump.  She is now quiet and
feels very solid.  Nothing helps like tightening those bolts and replacing
worn bushings.

>Another question:  have a Brooklands Book on Series II and IIA, 1958-1971.
> On of the articles is on the Dormobile from 1967.   On of the photos has
>what appears to be a speaker grill beside the instrument panel.  It=EDs a r=
>  Suggestions?
ight
>hand drive so the grill is to the left of the instruments.  Teri Ann?  Is
>that true or is this an anomaly?   Just curious.....

John Hess is our best Dormobile expert.  In general the Dormobiles came
without radios.  But they were essentually custom ordered and custom
equipped per order.  There very well could have been a factory radio added.
If the Dormobile was no new, it could have been an owner modification.

>Another question... if  I want to put seats in the back, what=EDs the best =
>that true or is this an anomaly?   Just curious.....
way
>of obtaining them?  Bench seats would be OK.  If there any chance of findin=
g
>some used ones or should these be purchased from a supplier?

Depends upon what you want.  I believe British Pacific sells both forward
facing and side facing new seats that will fit your car.  Used seats show
up fairly frequently.  I obtained and later passed on a rear bench seat and
recently picked up a rear single jump seat.  They are out there.  Just
remember, the upholstry is probably old and may crack easily.  It may cost
you more to purchase a used seat and recover it than to purchse a new one.
Check with Steve & Co for prices.
>Any help appreciated!
>Gerry Elam
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>'64 Series IIA " Soldado Sangrando"
>'96 Disco "Great White"

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 11:32:56 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: SIII front end....

Alastair asks...

>I'm getting around about 270 - 300 kms on my std two door tank under the
 drivers seat (~70 L). Now, I do have free wheel hubs, but for many reasons
 since I bought the car, they've stayed engaged in the 4x4 position. I went
 to move them to 4x2 today for better fuel economy - one moves easily, the
 other doesn't move at all!

 So, should I enage both of them again in to 4x4, leave the one in 4x2 and
 the opposite one on 4x4 - or pull them apart?

 Aslo, on ths same area, the right hand free wheel hub leaks oil all over my 
 wheel (this is the one that DOES enge into 4x2) - whilst the other one
 stays nice and clean. My mechanice told me that it's probably the CV joint
 leaking oil - and the reason the one wheel stays clean is that there is no
 oil in the CV joint on the clean wheel.

-
First of all.. If at all possible, don't ever drive with one hub engaged and
the other free. You can if you are NOT in 4WD.. you are not really putting
any major strain on the diff, but the steering will probably feel funny.

Your mechanic is probably right. You may indeed be out of oil on the side
that doesn't leak! And you will soon be out on the side that does!! You
didn't mention what type of FWH you have, but I would recommend taking off
the hub that is frozen and soaking the internals in oil. Drain the swivel
ball oil while your at it. Replace the FWH with the proper gasket and refill
the hub and the swivel with 90wt. Do the same with the side that leaks, too.
Chances are the leak is from the gasket. 

You don't need to put the truck on a lift to remove the hub.. You can do
that with all four wheels on the ground, but you may want to the wheel to
get access top the swivel ball drain and fill plugs.

Cheers
Mike Loiodice
166 W. Fulton St.                  1965 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Faded Green     
Gloversville                       1972 SerIII 88 Petrol - Fern Camo
NY  12078  (USA)        7          1971 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Red and Blue
                     #:-}>         1964 Triumph Spitfire - BRG

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 10:54:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Oily Ponderings

Adrian writes of his '76 III diesel 88:
>My 88" has an oil problem - when I start up, from cold, the oil pressure
>indicator lamp (green) lights, and stays lit for about 5 minutes
>driving. At startup the oil-pressure guage shows almost no pressure, but
>after about 5 minutes goes up to around 15-20 psi, where it remains for
>the rest of the journey.

I wouldn't drive a vehicle with both the oil pressure warning light and oil
pressure gauge were indicating almost non-existent oil pressure for 5
minutes, and then low oil pressure afterwards (spec oil pressure warm is 45
to 65 psi). While engines are very tolerant of lack of oil pressure for quite
a while, excessive wear due to lack of lubrication will eventually lead to
major problems, such as a rebuild with new bearings, crank, camshaft, etc.

I'm assuming the warning light has a switch, and the gauge is mechanical or
has a seperate sender, and thus are providing independent opinions. Thus a
real problem with oil pressure rather than a faulty reading. No personal
experience, but sounds like the relief valve in the oil pump is
malfunctioning.

>The 88" shows absolutly no oil leaks on the frame, motor, or workshop
>floor, where it is parked most of the time. The dipstick shows oil to
>HI.

>My conclusion - oil according to lucas = LOW - oil according to oil OK

Sufficent oil in the sump does not guarentee sufficent lubrication.
A quick description of the engine lubrication system. Oil accumulates in the
sump, is sucked up by the pump and sent through various passeges to the
bearings and other surfaces needing lubrication. It then drains back to the
sump. A valve in the oil pump limits the oil pressure to prevent damage. So
while the oil level in the sump must be high enough to be sucked up, oil in
the sump does not mean oil is properly circulated through the engine. The
dipstick only indicates the oil level, nothing about the oil pump or
circulation system.

David Cockey 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 09:22:24 -0800
From: Jeremy J Bartlett <Bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Snow Tires - for Canadian winter

jp@post.kosone.com wrote:
> Looking to prepare my NAS D90 for a Canadian winter.  I have the OEM
> BFG 265/75 R16 BFG Mud/Terrain tires, but have been warned that these
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> but may "float" rather than biting down through deep snow.  Is this a
> reasonable comment?  - or commercial b/s?

Actually that depends on whether you're talking tread pattern or size. 
If it's pattern, I'd suspect a bit of commercial BS here.  I'm sure
you can generate a lot of discussion on the merits of particular tread
patterns but I think that's really almost inditinguishable in everyday driving.
(Understand my experience is limited to only 5 winters in Canada) 
The snow tires I'm used to have a comparable pattern to the MTs.  
In fact I got along just fine in the Great Lakes area on All Seasons patterns.

Floating vs. biting is a slightly different issue and is related to 
the size of the tire.  You'll see the same argument about mud  
(large and wide = float; narrow and tall = cut).  Of course the 
argument, in many ways comes down to depth of material you're 
likely to encounter.  The argument is if it's really thick you're
probably better off with the float strategy.  If there's a 
decent, firm, shallow substrate, cutting is probably better.
Personally, I don't think much progress is likely in really thick
material and therefore cutting is a better approach - of course I
run 265/75 MTs so what do I know :)

> If another tire is more suitable, which one should I get?  Furthermore,
> which tires would be compatible in size with the Land Rover snow chains for
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Thanks,
> John Pym

I don't think you'll get significantly better tread pattern.  If you're
really concerned just go for a narrower tire.  

It's really a toss up no matter what you do. For example, a narrower 
tire with smaller "footprint" increases the pressure/grip on a low 
stress basis.  But when you apply more stress to that smaller footprint 
it's got less area to resist with.

cheers,

Jeremy

P.S. In the area of Canada I lived in chains were illegal on the roads -
I don't recall about snow studs - probably.

------------------------------

From: Rod Steele <rsteele@intellinet.com>
Subject: Returning after a move - Ontario to Arkansas
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 12:22:34 -0500

Goodday to one and all!

We and the 86 inch Lucy, have safely arrived in Arkansas.  Are there any people on the list living in Arkansas or close by ?

Any pointers would be welcome, to tie up with other LRO's.

Thanks, Rod.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 14:30:44 -0500
From: Brad F Worls <bworls@ovnet.com>
Subject: Re: V-8 Camshaft

Andy,
	Just a quick thought.  I just finished reading 'Fourwheeler'.  In it
they talk about building up a D90.  The article talks about cams and
intake/carbs for 3.5 and 3.9 I think.  I also believe they have a
webpage.  
http://www.fourwheeler.com/

	Disclamer.  I am in no way afiliated with fourwheeler nor do I vouch
for the information contained in their article.  After all I am at the
bottem of the learning curve of LR's !
					Good Luck & Enjoy
					Brad

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 14:43:43 -0500
Subject: How much Horsepower?

Someone inquired about how much horsepower they need, etc. for their Series
LR. There is a neat tech. article at http://www.edelbrock.com/edelbrock.html
 under "Power Package Levels" which has a lot of formulas for calculating
horsepower, HP required to sustain MPH at grade G, torque,carb CFM, etc.
Check it out. Even us non hot rod typs will find useful stuff there. Cheers.
Andy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 16:04:23 -0500 (EST)
From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu>
Subject: Re: SIII front end....

my 1977.5 ford f-250 did that 'one hub in one hub out' to me once and i
drove it for four days before i had the chance to look at it.  you should
take things apart NOW.  no matter what kind of vechile you have if its
doing things wrong, by all means look at it.  it cost me $275 to fix and
my father has an inspection station.  

scott

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 17:13:24 -0500
From: Tim McDaniel <mcdaniel@adra.com>
Subject: Re: Series III dash tray  removal(not instrument cluster)

At 02:20 PM 10/26/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Hoping that someone has done this before and can give me some help! 
>...
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>all the way into the engine compartment either.  How do I access the other
>side of these buggers!?

I had this same problem.  They are nuts...and then again they are not nuts.
They are more like "nutserts" or wall anchors.  They are inserted in a hole
in the sheet metal and tightened up.  The hex head bolt then screws into them.

The edges of these are grooved to provide grip.  They work real well in 
situations like this where the backside is completely covered.  Real well until
you need to remove the bolt and the threads have siezed.  Apply enough 
pressure and the bolt and "nut" start spinning.  That's what happened to me.
I had to cut the head off by using a pair of vise grips to hold the head and a
hacksaw blade.  

                                
                                Tim

------------------------------

From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: Rovers in Film
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 00:28:21 +-100

Hello!

Tonight the Danish TV2 send the Clint Eastwood film "White hunter, Black heart", The film is reasonable, and the plot nothing,
BUT lots of series 1 and 2 in the shootings from Africa.
Nice to see, mostly because all the Rovers.

Happy Rovering

Bent Boehlers, Denmark.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 17:58:32 -0500
From: bbeech@golden.net (Ian Harper)
Subject: For Sale

I have some parts that I don't need anymore (and a couple that I mistakenly
ordered) that I would like to get rid of.   If you are interested in any of
these, let me know.

Brake Master Cylinder 109" CB Ser II,IIA        564706
Front Left Wheel Cylinder 109"   243703
Water Pump Assembly Ser IIA,III RTC6328
Inner Half axles 276719 & 276720
Distributor Cap  RTC 3278

Thanks, Ian

iharper@afm.org

Ph:     (519) 273-7771
Fax:    (519) 273-3993

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 18:01:02 -0500
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Oil Filters

Just a question:

I have been running with the 5 1/4 filters (canister type).  Last time I
got filters I got the 7 1/4 by mistake.  I put one in and the cover
tightens down fine.  Should I have been using the 7 1/4 all along? 
There is a spring on the long bolt which kept the 5 1/4  up to the base
but the 7 1/4 fits in without removing it.

Is this some sort of conversion?

Nate
dunsmo19@us.net

------------------------------

From: Rod Steele <rsteele@intellinet.com>
Subject: birmabright boys
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 18:23:36 -0500

Is the Birmabright list still being maintained and who is doing it, I would interested in updating my address if it is. 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 18:51:00 -0600
From: "John.Cross" <John.Cross@pscmail.ps.net>
Subject: Manuals &  Tools

     
     Advice on where to get manuals and tools for decent prices?  Have a 
     1962 IIA 109 SW purchased this spring.
     
     Thanks,
     John

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 20:45:18 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: LR Series parts policy

On Sat, 26 Oct 1996, Michael Carradine wrote:

>  Welcomed news, Land Rover Netizens!

	Most interesting...  Whereabout you hear this?

>  been rumors of a desire to establish a 'HERITAGE' vehicles department at
>  Solihull, there is no evidence of this yet.

	BMIHT is now doing this with clothing and marque logos.  

>  inflated prices) and thus allowed a parallel spurious parts network to
>  flourish with 'low-quality after-market' parts.  This situation is now

	"Spurious"  Low-quality"?  I can't buy QH, Timkin, AE parts?  Only
	that which comes in a LR box is ok?

>  being redressed.  LAND ROVER lawyers have been busy in the UK and abroad
>  during the past months rooting out copyright and logo infringements.

	More like a jihad...

>  LAND ROVER interest in recapturing some of the SIII parts market will be
>  expressed as its current strategy to cater to the needs of SIII owners

	So I - IIA is fair game?  Probably not until they have finished
	rewriting history and turning the Series vehicles into early
	Defenders.

>  sizeable chunk of the market again.  Suppliers to LAND ROVER will be
>  penalized if they are found to be supplying parts (made specifically for
>  a manufacturer to his design) in a parallel market.

	LR out to lose a court case and pay damages to these companies?
	Somehow I don't see Timkin, QH, Lucas, AE, etc bowing to this
	policy.  Souund almost like some of this nasty EU inspired
	regulatory trash designed to decrease competition, increase
	profits...

>  Whether the impetus for such action comes from BMW is hard to say.  It
>  is certainly a germanic scenario, but LAND ROVER owners will eventually
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>  prices for genuine spare parts which may ultimately exemplify a new trend
>  in the industry.  
	Kill competition, reap greater profits in conjunction with the 
	above.  Betcha BMW has a lot to do with this.  Look at how they
	run their club structure...

	"Will eventually welcome it"?  We have a choice?

>                        It appears clear that this renewed interest is the
>  result of LAND ROVER's marketing success of its product line here in the
>  US, which in in no small way the result of five decades of brand loyalty,
>  club activity and resurgent enthusiasm of Solihull's finest vehicles.
>  in the industry.  
	Well, lets see.  Of the 100,000 post 1987 vehicles sold over here,
	what percentage of those were purchased by longtime owners of
	the pre-1974 vehicles?  What percentage of Series vehicles
	rushed out and purchased the new ones off the showroom floor?
	Image and marketting have brought this about.  Five decades of
	brand loyalty?  Don't think so...  Club activity?  On a very
	small scale, considering LRNA and LRC couldn't give a damn about
	the clubs thus far.  

	This is a rather fascinating message, bodes some good and some
	ill.  Some bits even look like they were written by the marketting
	division of the Siruis Cybernetics Corporation.  Other bits like 
	"feelers" being put out with some interesting motivations...

	Rgds,

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 21:06:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Oily Ponderings

Adrian writes of his '76 III diesel 88:
>My 88" has an oil problem - when I start up, from cold, the oil pressure
>indicator lamp (green) lights, and stays lit for about 5 minutes
>driving. At startup the oil-pressure guage shows almost no pressure, but
>after about 5 minutes goes up to around 15-20 psi, where it remains for
>the rest of the journey.

I'd waste no time droping the pan on that motor and checking the oil pump
pressure relief valve. Seems like it's stuck open, at least till warmup is
done, and maybe then the expansion of the metal in the pump body lets it
close or operate somewhat normally. 
If you know what rattling bearings sound like, and can hear them over the
cacaphony of a diesel 2.25, and you don't hear that, check with a known to be
reliable guage. And check the grounds on your instrument cluster.
Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD engine rebuild under way!
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 21:06:58 -0500
From: Tim McDaniel <mcdaniel@adra.com>
Subject: www.tiresplus.com

        I got the impression that Trac Edge tires were difficult to
        find so while I was digging up some info on the net I came across
        the following "on sale" at TiresPlus (www.tiresplus.com).

        Just in case anyone is interested, I thought I'd pass this along:

        BF GOODRICH        LT215/85R16 TRAC EDGE
                           8PBW[B448130]               $ 99.95

        BF GOODRICH        LT235/85R16 TRAC EDGE
                           10PBW[B448166]              $ 106.82 

        And to quote them further:

        "Internet prices are valid only if ordered by calling "JD" at 
        1-800-528-7992. Shipping and mounting are not included in the 
        prices."

        Not connected to them in any way blah, blah, blah.

                                Tim

    +----------------------------------------------------------------------+
    | Tim McDaniel                               (508) 937-3700 ext. 725   |
    | Adra Systems, Inc.                         (508) 453-2462 (FAX)      |
    | 2 Executive Drive                                                    |
    | Chelmsford, MA  01824                      mcdaniel@adra.com         |
    | USA                                                                  |
    +----------------------------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Re:   HP and Torque limit of IIA drive train
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 96 14:02:00 EST

Date: Fri, 25 Oct 96 10:28:05 EDT From: krm@mtnms.mt.lucent.com
(K.MOHLENHOFF)
: HP and Torque limit of IIA drive train

 >Hello; How would you determine the point at which you would need to change 
the drivetrain when swapping an engine? The vehicle is a IIa with rover 
diffs and a 2.25D engine. The manual lists the 6 cylinder as 83HP and 
128ft/lbs of torque, is this the max? Are there specifications for the 
gearbox, xfer and diffs for maximum stress/strain?

>No plans to do it, just curious.

Keith R. Mohlenhoff

Keith,
I can't answer the question directly.  However, replacement of the engines 
in LR is very common here in Australia.  The most common swap is that of 
fitting the 6-cylinder General Motors-Holden 179, 186 or 202 cubic inch 
motors.  A friend has one IIA with a 179 ci engine and another with a 
Chrysler Valiant 6-cylinder 245(?) ci engine.  They go like the clappers! 
 He upgraded the diffs and/or axles to later stronger versions.  I think the 
axles are the weak link.

Look on the net for an Australian web site called Marks 4WD adaptors 
(something like M4WD - you'll see it in the search result for Land Rover or 
Range Rover).  The site gives a lot of good info on engine replacements for 
Landies and Rangies.  I am sorry I can't give you their URL address - I 
don't have Internet access from this machine.

They also do adaptor kits for Holden 5.0 litre V8s into the Range Rover - 
apparently a fairly easy conversion at about half the price of doing up the 
3.5 litre V8

Regards,

Ron Beckett
Editor Hillman Owners Club of Australia Newsletter
1983 4-door Rangie 4-speed manual
1987 4-door Rangie Auto with John E Davis 4.6litre engine conversion
1971 Hillman Hunter Royal 660 - the Australian Hunter GT/Humber Sceptre
(I like British.  Am I a glutton for punishment?)

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Gasahol - why shouldn't I use it?
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 96 14:22:00 EST

I am new to Range Rovers and this (or any Internet) mailing list  so I 
apologise in advance if this question has been previously asked and answered 
(many times).

I note from the owners handbook that LR expressly advise owners not to use 
ethanol blended petrol.  Why?
Does it damage the engine or o-rings, etc., or does it have something to do 
with meeting emission standards.

The reason I ask is that I use an ethanol blended petrol in my Hillman to 
help reduce pinking (the engine is the high compression twin carb alloy head 
version) and I was wondering if I could use it in my 83 RR 9.35:1 HC engine 
to reduce pinking.

TIA (does this mean thanks in advance?)
What does BTW mean?

Ron Beckett
Editor Hillman Owners Club of Australia Newsletter
1983 4-door Rangie 4-speed manual
1987 4-door Rangie Auto with John E Davis 4.6litre engine conversion (for 
towing a car trailer)
1971 Hillman Hunter Royal 660 - the Australian Hunter GT/Humber Sceptre
(I like British.  Am I a glutton for punishment?)

------------------------------

From: graf_greg/furman@furman.edu
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 96 22:10:48 -0500
Subject:  

unsubscribe land-rover-owner

------------------------------

From: graf_greg/furman@furman.edu
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 96 22:11:22 -0500
Subject:  

unsubscribe lro-digest

------------------------------

From: graf_greg/furman@furman.edu
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 96 22:14:45 -0500
Subject:  

unsubscribe land-rover-owner greg.graf@furman.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 23:16:14 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Gold Rush in Lapland of Finland

Raimo Niemel=E4 wrote:
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>
> I have two Rovers: P4 1952 and Discovery 1990. In Finland we have Rover=
 Club
> "Rover=3DB4s Friends", in the club are about 600 members and they have =
all=3D
>  kinds
> of Rovers.
>
> My favority hobby is digging the Gold in Lapland. Diggging the Gold and
> Discovery fit together. I have own Gold place, where I am four - six we=
eks
> in summertimes.
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>
> I have a proplem with my Discovery. The heater is not made for the cold=
>.
> Discovery is very cold in winter. How I can do the heater better. I had=
 the
> same problem with my Range Rover 1988.
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>
> Raimo Niemela

Hello Raimo
My name is David Place.  I had the fun of visiting your country in 1993
with the Red Cross delivering emergency supplies to Russia out of Turku
in November of that year.  I brough back a Land Rover Camel Trophy
sticker from the Finnish Team. 
I live in a very cold climate, in fact probably colder than Lapland.  I
own a Ser IIA but in my vehicle, I put an extra heater in the rear.  The
heater is from a van made by Chevrolet in North America.  This puts out a=

lot of heat.  You could do this also. 
My brother-in-law is from Lulio in Sweden, and he is a Laplander.
Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 23:41:03 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Snow Tires - for Canadian winter

Jeremy J Bartlett wrote:
> jp@post.kosone.com wrote:
> > Looking to prepare my NAS D90 for a Canadian winter.  I have the OEM
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 48 lines)]
> P.S. In the area of Canada I lived in chains were illegal on the roads -
> I don't recall about snow studs - probably.

I live in an area with lots of snow, and I drive in remote locations, 
often over frozen lakes and tundra.  I prefer a good "real" snowtire 
especially radials.  They are softer rubber, and they seem to clean out 
the tread better than anything else.  Most people who don't off road seem 
to use a combo tire that has a fairly close tread for highway driving 
without noise and more importanly don't get hot, and some biting 
traction.  I think hot tires are a real problem.  You all know the 
problem if you have been spinning your tires and got them warm, they melt 
the snow under the tire and it freezes to ice and you are stuck fast.  
You have to put down some grit to get going again.  Use a big tread cool 
running tire for real deep snow, and for anything else a combo all season 
radial will probably work fine for you.  Dave VE4PN  50 years in a land 
that goes to -40 to +40 and can get many feet of snow a year.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 23:33:57 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Oily Ponderings

Adrian Redmond wrote:
> Here's one for the oil experts on this net!
> My 88" has an oil problem - when I start up, from cold, the oil pressure
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 36 lines)]
> "Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!"
> ---------------------------------------------------

If you don't hear the engine rattling when there is no pressure showing, 
it is likely the sender or gauge when cold.  Try a real line gauge.  It 
will register as soon as the engine is turning at any speed over a few 
RPMs like with the starter turning a few seconds.  If your valves are 
rattling at "0" pressure you have a problem.  If they are quiet, it is 
the measuring device.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 23:33:57 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Oily Ponderings

Adrian Redmond wrote:
> Here's one for the oil experts on this net!
> My 88" has an oil problem - when I start up, from cold, the oil pressure
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 36 lines)]
> "Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!"
> ---------------------------------------------------

If you don't hear the engine rattling when there is no pressure showing, 
it is likely the sender or gauge when cold.  Try a real line gauge.  It 
will register as soon as the engine is turning at any speed over a few 
RPMs like with the starter turning a few seconds.  If your valves are 
rattling at "0" pressure you have a problem.  If they are quiet, it is 
the measuring device.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 23:28:20 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Late IIa Clutch Master

Miroslav Belik wrote:
> >The clutch master is leaking on my 1970 IIa.  It's a left hooker.  Can
> >somebody run down the procedure which requires the fewest number of parts
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)]
> Australia.
> Some books on brakes suggest bleeding the master cyl. with a short piece 
of pipe before connecting it to the real lines just to empty the cyl. of 
air.  Keep the container full at all times so you don't reintroduce air 
and then conncect the line and bleed it at the slave connector first then 
the normal bleed screw.  This should remove all the air.  Something to 
check is that the rubber hose isn't rotted out inside where you can't see 
it.  This has been the cause of lots of people thinking the slave clutch 
rod is too short.  You press down the pedal and you don't get enough 
travel so you blame the slave rod.  Actuall the hose is expanding and you 
are not getting enough fluid into the slave to move it the full distance 
so you seem to have a short rod.  Chack that line, they often get soft 
inside and expand.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 23:21:14 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Series IIA Electrical (specifically coil)

Christopher H. Dow wrote:
> [Sorry for the cross-post, but I know both lists have people who know about
> this stuff.]
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 35 lines)]
> '65 IIA 88" SW
> '96 Disco (which the wife drives--at least _she's_ not roverless)For those of you who have had similar problems with the fuse panel on 
series vehicles, I have found that the best thing is to bypass the 
original holders with cartridge type fuse holders.  These are the modern 
type with the spring loaded cap that twists off.  You simply solder the 
pigtales from one side of the old fuse holder to the other, and you can 
remove or leave the old fuse in.  The old fuse holder is in the open and 
prone to corrosion and dampness.  The new type is much less so and the 
fuses are easier to remove and check on if blown.  The parts are 
available at any Radio Shack or similar type parts store.  If you really 
want to get fancy, put in breakers.  They could save your hide in the 
remote places sometime.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 23:43:48 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: SIII front end....

Russell U Wilson wrote:
> my 1977.5 ford f-250 did that 'one hub in one hub out' to me once and i
> drove it for four days before i had the chance to look at it.  you should
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> my father has an inspection station.
> scott

For what it is worth, sometime you get windup on the front drive that 
makes moving the free wheeling hubs in and out of lock a  problem.  I 
just rock the vehicle while someone tries to move the handle or I jack up 
the wheel and while giving it a bit of a turn try to move the handle.  It 
might only be under pressure from windup and won't move.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 23:29:02 -0700
From: faurecm@halcyon.com (C. Marin Faure)
Subject: Re: Over the top

>From: Lodelane@aol.com
re: overdrives
>> Make sure you pack the clutch sleeve with a high moly grease - recommend CV
>> joint grease. This is the only lube the assembly gets when running.

Could you eleborate on this please?  I installed a Fairey overdrive in my
Series III a couple of years after I purchased the vehicle new in 1973.  In
1981, I let it run low on oil one too many times (the sympton was jumping
out of overdrive while driving at higher speeds) and it finally sheared all
the teeth off the little OD drive gear that replaces the output gear on the
transmission.  It also damaged the corresponding teeth on the inside of the
OD input shaft. I am curious about your greasing statement, however,
because there was nothing in the installation instructions about packing
anything called a clutch sleeve with grease, only a caution to check the
oil level weekly.  I ran it daily for almost seven years with no problems,
other than its disengaging when I neglected to check the oil a few times in
the early 1980s.

I have since replaced it with a new one, and the instructions for it, too,
made no reference to greasing anything. I have had no problems with the new
one for almost six years, and I am much more conscientious about checking
the oil level.  It has never jumped out of gear.  Thanks-

C. Marin Faure
  1973 LR Series III 88
  1991 RR Vogue SE
  (Seattle)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 15:06:23 +0800
From: Boronia Farm <boronia@griffin.bis.net.au>
Subject: LRO Australia

Hi all,
        Just a general query as to whether there are any LRO's on this list
that live in Australia, or Western Australia specifically.?
        I am currently restoring a 80" Series I (1950/51) and I am always on
the lookout for parts, old and/or new, either form here or from overseas.
Any information is appreciated.  Thanks Nigel

------------------------------

From: houniet@xs4all.nl
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 09:43:20 +0100
Subject: Re: HP and Torque limit of IIA drive train

K.MOHLENHOFF wrote:
> Hello;
> How would you determine the point at which you would need to change the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> No plans to do it, just curious.
> Keith R. Mohlenhoff

Talking about driving trains;
As you might know my SIIa gearbox died a while ago, and I've been
looking for an alternative. I remember someone telling me that the IIa
gearbox (syncro on 3 an4 only) is the strongest Landrover gearbox but as
it happens my broke it's layshaft just behind the small 1st gear.
Anyway, I heard that it might be a good idea to put a Rangerover 4 speed
in because of the permanent 4x4 and because it's a a considerable newer
design. The one I should have is something with ....95 I think.
Does anybody know which gearbox this is, and is this a good idea, and is
it a terrible hassle to get it in?

Not curious, just plans to do it.
Floris Houniet.
1st mechanic ex ambulance '69 SIIa.
owner safari '69 SIIa.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 07:28:27 -0800
Subject: Waxoyl ? Where can I get it ?
From: Oliver_Gottlob@t-online.de (Oliver Gottlob)

Hello all,

I want to know where can I buy Waxoyl in Germany ?

After a minor Rebuild on my smoky Diesel Engine, I had done a major 
rebuild to to chassis. I removed all the underseal and Paint (abt. 30l of 
waste) and before the winter comes I will protect this work. In the 
moment itīs painted black (2 timer Primer & Paint) but I think when the 
salt (against the ice on streets) come, this will not be enougth.

So I think I want to dip the car in Waxoyl (Spaying all parts and the 
frames inner side).

How much I need for a complete Waxoylshield ? And the major question: 
Where can i buy ist in Germany, or there are companys in the UK or Europe 
they send it by mail ???

-- 
>>>>  Landrover 109 DIESEL 2.25l Series III 1976 <<<
>>>>  with Hard Top and Soft Top (in Summer)     <<<yemail:   Oliver_Gottlob@T-Online.de
AMPRBBS: DG5DBV@DB0BQ.#NRW.DEU.EU
amprnos: DG5DBV@DB0NOS.ampr.org
FAX:     (+) 49 2923 7276

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 17:28:34 +0800 (SGT)
From: silkris@pacific.net.sg (Silver Kris)
Subject: Re: A few LR questions

Hello Brad,

Is the 109 a 2.6l Six cylinder? If it is be warned that this is a petrol
thirsty, valve hungry engine.
>        I am greatly looking forward to becoming endentured to a 109 in the

Cheers,
Lawrence
Singapore (silkris@pacific.net.sg)
Ser III 2.6l 109

Silver Kris, Singapore Airlines Inflight Magazine

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 18:23:23 +0800 (SGT)
From: silkris@pacific.net.sg (Silver Kris)
Subject: Re: SIII front end....

Hi Alastair,

>So, should I enage both of them again in to 4x4, leave the one in 4x2 and
>the opposite one on 4x4 - or pull them apart?
According to the instruction manual that came with my freewheeling hubs,
one should not run with only one hub locked - probably would cause diff
windup. The only way to find out what is wrong is to strip it down and
inspect.Cheers,
Lawrence
Singapore (silkris@pacific.net.sg)
Ser III 2.6l 109

Silver Kris, Singapore Airlines Inflight Magazine

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 18:23:50 +0800 (SGT)
From: silkris@pacific.net.sg (Silver Kris)
Subject: Re: Over the top

My apologies for posting this again, but since we're on the topic of
overdrives...

I have installed a Superwinch overdrive (secondhand, PO claimed less than
3000km) and found that although I could shift into overdrive while on the
move, I have to slow down almost to a halt to shift out of overdrive. I
could shift to neutral and back into overdrive etc but not down.

My mechanic had stripped the thing down but could not figure the thing -
Gears and syncromesh are very new (PO was true) I test drove the PO's car
with this overdrive before purchasing, and it was fine then.

O collective wisdom of the list, what do you figure?

Thanks,
Lawrence
Singapore SIII 2.6l 109

Silver Kris, Singapore Airlines Inflight Magazine

------------------------------

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