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1 Michel Bertrand [mbertra101Land Rover and the law...
2 Andy Woodward [azw@aber.14 stumpy
3 "Niel J. P. Fagan" [NF@o31 Re: Carb O-ring material.
4 pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.32Over the top
5 krm@mtnms.mt.lucent.com 15HP and Torque limit of IIA drive train
6 jouster@rocket.com (John221st aid supplies
7 ericz@cloud9.net 45Land Rover and the Law...
8 Brad F Worls [bworls@ovn25A few LR questions
9 ecrover@midcoast.com (Ea34Free stuff!
10 steve_reddock@uk.xyratex30Chassis
11 QROVER80@aol.com 13Video of the "Down East" has finally arrived
12 ecrover@midcoast.com (Ea19Re: Chassis
13 eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heit29dilute the hydraulic fluid
14 "Tcoron" [tcoron@nswc.na25Delco alternators, etc.
15 Lodelane@aol.com 12Re: Video of the "Down East" has finally arrived
16 Lodelane@aol.com 27Re: Over the top
17 RALPH@SMUGGITS.MHS.Compu42Re: Re: Parabolic Springs.
18 scooper@scooper.seanet.c8Sighting
19 twakeman@scruznet.com (T64Re: HP and Torque limit of IIA drive train
20 Michael Carradine [cs@cr52LR Series parts policy
21 Raimo =?iso-8859-1?Q?Nie30Gold Rush in Lapland of Finland
22 jp@post.kosone.com 18Snow Tires - for Canadian winter
23 "Christopher H. Dow" [do18Rosenkrantz rolls under his own power
24 Wdcockey@aol.com 20Re: Parabolic Springs.
25 "Christopher H. Dow" [do39Series IIA Electrical (specifically coil)
26 Wdcockey@aol.com 25Re: Stage 1 heresy. (New LR speculation)
27 GElam30092@aol.com 52Workin on the Rover....
28 Blair Gillespie [Gillesp20Sightings
29 rovah@agate.net (John Ca28Series III dash tray removal(not instrument cluster)
30 m.belik@uws.edu.au (Miro24Steering Problem
31 m.belik@uws.edu.au (Miro27Re: Late IIa Clutch Master
32 Ross [fax.rescue@hunterl20Depreciations & appreciations
33 "Christopher H. Dow" [do10Correcton on electrical question
34 "Christopher H. Dow" [do23Turning indicator wiring in a '65 IIA
35 AKBLACKLEY@aol.com 24V-8 Camshaft
36 Marc Rengers [mr@grant.m95[not specified]


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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 1996 07:46:12 -0400
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@InterLinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Land Rover and the law...

Hello all, 

Seeing that the traffic was not too high on the list, I had a few spare
minutes so I decided to look for canadian jurisprudence which involved Land
Rover. This is the results of my search.

The first case is from Ontario where Land Rover Canada was condemned to pay
around 850,000.00 Canadian $ for not respecting a dealership agreement with
a Yorkville dealer.

" My conclusion then is that the loss of profits
 and therefore the amount of damages to which the plaintiff is
 entitled is the sum of $845,101.00. "

Pretty good profit for three years!! The 55-page judgment has tables and
such that shows profits, costs, etc.. Pretty cool.

The second case is again from Ontario, from a guy who moved in from South
Africa. Before leaving, he agreed upon buying a LR but never paid for it. 

 "The defendant was a solicitor, practising law
 at Westville, South Africa.  In August 1976, the plaintiff
 entered into an agreement with the defendant for the purchase
 of a Land Rover motor vehicle.  In August 1977, the defendant
 moved to the City of Hamilton in the Province of Ontario.  He
 has resided in Ontario since that time."

Is he on the list?

The third case is from British Columbia where a chap suffered severe
injuries from an accident in his 1973 88". This is what the judge says:

" The plaintiff was driving a 1973 Leyland Land
 Rover at the time of the accident.  That is a utilitarian
 vehicle known for it's strength and durability but not it's
 occupant comfort.  In the vernacular it is built like a   
"tank".  The vehicle was equipped with a 3 point restraint
 harness which the plaintiff was wearing.  The seats were steel
 frames, thinly padded, with seat backs below shoulder height.
 There were no headrests on the seat backs.

 [para15]     The plaintiff had stopped on the highway,
 signalled a left turn, and was waiting for oncoming traffic to
 clear.  There was no traffic visible behind him when he
 stopped.  Without warning the plaintiff's vehicle was struck
 from behind with such force the vehicle was propelled across
 the highway and into a ditch. An eye witness confirmed the
 defendant's Volvo was travelling at high speed at impact.  The
 plaintiff describes the impact as an explosion.

 [para16]     The rear axle and differential of the Land Rover
 were torn from the frame in the collision, and both
 plaintiff's and defendant's vehicles were damaged beyond
 economic repair.  There is no doubt that the impact must be
 categorized as severe.

 [para17]     The plaintiff briefly lost consciousness in the
 collision and awakened to someone banging on his window.  "

Ouch!

The next case involves a family affair. In a divorce, value of the goods
must be determined both at the date of marriage and at the date of
separation. In the items, was a Land Rover. 

 Value of Property Owned at Date of Marriage, which was 1975:
"Land Rover                                      1,000.00"       

Assets Owned at Date of Separation, which was 1983:                
 "1968 Land Rover                                   $100.00"   

Does that sound like a reasonable devaluation? Doesn't say if it has a
rusted frame or not. Maybe the Land Rover was the reason for the failure of
the marriage? 

The last case, from British Columbia,  is rather sick. It's about a kid who
was a victim of child-abuse and didn't quite enjoy his experience in a Land
Rover.

 "The Defendant
      had zipped our two sleeping bags together and we got
      into them in the back of his Land Rover truck."

Enough said on that case.

Hope I didn't bore any of you, and I'll keep my eyes open for other
interseting stories, 

Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

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From: Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 1996 12:56:50 +0000
Subject:  stumpy

>Note on pulling stumps......I've never (knock on wood heh heh)
>stressed any drivetrain parts...(the frame and the tow hooks on the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>happening and monitor the "slack removal"...I guess maybe I'm not
>actually pulling stumps but rather jerking them....Works for me! 

Or just use the lorry as a ground anchor and winch em out with the 
HiLift.

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From: "Niel J. P. Fagan" <NF@orc.soton.ac.uk>
Date:          Fri, 25 Oct 1996 13:30:47 GMT
Subject:       Re: Carb O-ring material.

Some one asked about O-rings that won't be distroyed by cheap fuel, 
(or the additives there in), searched out a few bits in the office,
suggestions are:- 1. Viton or 2. (if your rich) Du Pont KALREZ, which 
lists more chemicals its resistant to compared to viton (which is 
pretty good too). 

Contact address

U.S. Sales Office

E.I.du Pont de Nemours & Co., Inc.
Elastomers Division
Germany Park
Wilmington, Delaware 19898
(302) 774-6880
Telex 835-420

I have other addresses if required for elseware.

No connection etc, see disclaimer below.

Rgds Niel

Views expressed are personal and not those of the 
University, unless otherwise & expressly stated.

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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 1996 16:43:52 +0200
From: pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield - System Manager (SERCO) X492)
Subject: Over the top

Re: Overdrives

From: Lodelane@aol.com

> Make sure you pack the clutch sleeve with a high moly grease - recommend CV
> joint grease. This is the only lube the assembly gets when running. 

eek, I didn't do this, do I _have_ to  grease this bit up ? ie. Do I have to 
take it all off again :-(

> watch the studs when you first put the OD onto the transfer case.  Two or
> three of them must have the nuts started on them before the OD is pushed 
> fully in

Been there, done that and pulled it out again. Don't forget your piece of 2" by 
4" (lever) to 'encourage' it to slide into place !

> Do what someone mentioned earlier this week and vent the OD top cover up into
> the engine bay.

Eh ? How, the top cover plate of the OD has a drilling in it with spilt pin on 
mine as far as I can remember.If it isn't overfilled then it shouldn't spew oil?

Cheers,

Paul"oh no, another day wrestling with the damn overdrive approaches"W

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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 96 10:28:05 EDT
From: krm@mtnms.mt.lucent.com (K.MOHLENHOFF)
Subject: HP and Torque limit of IIA drive train

Hello;
How would you determine the point at which you would need to change the 
drivetrain when swapping an engine? The vehicle is a IIa with rover diffs 
and a 2.25D engine. The manual lists the 6 cylinder as 83HP and 128ft/lbs
of torque, is this the max? Are there specifications for the gearbox, xfer
and diffs for maximum stress/strain?

No plans to do it, just curious.

Keith R. Mohlenhoff

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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 1996 08:25:21 -0700
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: 1st aid supplies

This summer I was on a fishing trip where a 10-year old boy fell on his head 
(from a breaking tree branch). Out of nearly 20 adults present, I was the 
only one with 1st aid training (expired) (and nearly the only sober one). To 
make the story short, what I really needed was a STERILE DRESSING. The 
available 1st aid kit (my Rover was at home) had been used previously but 
not refilled. I used my dry, freshly laundered handkerchief after washing 
the kid's wound with hydrogen peroxide someone had. (He got 10 stitches in 
the back of his head at the nearest aide station, about 30 miles away) The 
bottom line, as an absolute minimum (IMHO), is sterile dressings (4x4 gauze 
pads) and tape. In the 4 moderately bad accidents I've had to deal with, 
nothing more was really necessary. Most off-road folks have plenty of gear 
to deal with shock, broken bones, etc, given the training, and Rover groups 
seem to have an unusually high percentage of trained people. Must be part of 
the reason I like them.

'nuff said
John O

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From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 1996 11:22:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Land Rover and the Law...

Michel's research on Land Rover's connection with Canadian law sparked some 
interest, so I figured I would take advantage of the free "for educational use 
only" searches available of electronic databases. Here's what has gone through 
the U.S. federal courts that has to do with Land Rovers....

First, we have a case where some suspected drug dealers were driving a Land 
Rover, the cops chased and shot at them...turns out they had no drugs.  
Suspected dealers brought a civil rights case....

Next, we have a couple cases (well known in the law between dealers and 
manufacturers) where British Leyland tried to coerce Triumph dealers to carry 
the Land Rover line when they were consolidated in 1968.  Many of these dealers 
were already carrying competing lines and refused.  Leyland then decided to stop 
shipping Triumphs...naturally, the dealers weren't too happy and they filed 
suit.

Next, a political assylum case where the man seeking assuylum remembers that his 
persecutors were driving Land Rovers...

Next, a dispute between Infiniti and one of their dealers where the dealer 
picked up Land Rover, and Infiniti believed it to be a competing product and 
filed suit for breach of contract.

Next, the estate of a British citizen who was killed in Guinea when the Land 
Rover in which he was riding overturned...the LR happened to be owned by a U.S. 
corporation....hence the U.S. courts.

Next, an interesting case from 1957 where Land Rovers being shipped to Cuba from 
New York were damaged....the case indicates that at least 35 Rovers were 
shipped....wonder where they are now?

Finally, we have the bankruptcy proceeding of a LR dealer in Newport Beach, CA.

Ok folks, thats the federal courts system....now that you know I have nothing 
better to do with my time (actually, I do, but this was too tempting)....I'll 
see if there are any state cases with LR content at a later date....

Rgds,
Eric

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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 1996 11:46:39 -0400
From: Brad F Worls <bworls@ovnet.com>
Subject: A few LR questions

Hello All,
	First may I apologize for doing anything wrong as I am new to this. 
Secondly, being interested in becoming a LRO I had a few questions that
needed anwsered! 
	
	a) Has anyone dealt with or have knowledge of dealings with Renewed
Traditions in GA?
	   I have called them a couple of times and droped them e-mail but have
not gotten a human response and their page on 'Refurbishment' is not
available.
	b) Does anyone have titles and availability on LR Shop Manuals, Owners
Manuals, Suplements, Mags., etc. If you could also ballpark cost it
would be greatly appreciated. (US$ please)
	c) Is there a list of reputable parts houses kept by this group?

	I am greatly looking forward to becoming endentured to a 109 in the
near furture, and appreciate any and all replies to my sophmoric
questions.
						Thanx,
                                                   Brad

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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 1996 11:59:55 -0400
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Free stuff!

Dear all,
        Especially those in Maine. Pre winter cleaning has left us with a
huge pile of items we can no longer store, and, or no longer want.
        All the stuff is used, some ok, some junk, some good...
        Anyway.. this stuff is now FREE, and up for grabs.
        So come and get it if you want it. Don't expect perfect parts, but
I'm sure someone can use some of it. Included are...
        3 leaf chassis, with springs and axles, door tops, door bottoms,
rear doors, 15 inch rims, fuel tanks, the usual stuff that piles up. We
saved what we want, the rest is yours.
        Limits...
        Parts have to be picked up NOW! Friday or Sat. only. The junk man
is coming, so get here first. Parts must be picked up during daylight
business hours. If someone from ECR is not here, dont come, or the
neighbors will call the cops.
        Sat. is OK
        Sunday is out.

        Sorry for the limitations... but it is free stuff.

        Thanks all!

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 1996 11:20:08 EDT
From: steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com
Subject: Chassis

*** Resending note of 25/10/96 12:12

Dear all,
        At the risk of having this message repeated 17 or 20 times, I'm
going to do it anyway.
        We have for sale a 88" galv. coil conversion chassis, this is NOT
one of ours, and is NOT an Arrow, it is an ex-Roverworks project that was
given up on by the owner. The chassis has a power steering pump bolted on,
and the rear shock mounts, and is set up for what looks like a V8, 5 speed.
        We are cleaning up the grounds before snow comes, so this chassis
is now for sale to the highest bidder in the next few days. It has to be
removed from here soon though.
        Thanks all, and lets hope this only appears once!

        See ya!

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

What's that?  Not funny?  OK I won't do it again.

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From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 1996 12:24:45 -0400
Subject: Video of the "Down East" has finally arrived

The videos of the Down East off-road day have arrived. They contain all the
usual suspects, Mostly in various stages of getting stuck and unstuck. There
are scenes of Eric's "forestry" in the, not quiet, stage one. Good stuff of
Jared's 101. Lots of good stuff on Dave B and Spenny. It proves that that
little incident with the "Pneumatic one" REALLY was Bob Morrison's doing.
LOTS of good stuff. 
Rgds Quintin

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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 1996 12:57:27 -0400
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Re: Chassis

>        We have for sale a 88" galv. coil conversion chassis,
>What's that?  Not funny?  OK I won't do it again.

        Man did that get my heart going or what. I saw it all happening again!!
        No No, not again!!:-)
        Very funny!

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 1996 13:14:21 -0500
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Subject: dilute the hydraulic fluid

Marc Rengers raised an interesting question about clutch fluids, to which I
might be able to offer a suggestion from experience. When I brought Baby
home, she had not been driven for several years. There may have been some
liquid brake fluid way down in the bottom of the clutch hydraulic line,
because it was possible to (sort of) make the clutch work. Everything
underneath was frozen shut (bleed valve, etc.), so I tried another tack. I
put a new master cylinder in the top and filled the reservoir with fresh
fluid. This disappeared soon, and I put some more fluid in.

What had happened, was that the fluid in the system had turned to jelly
after sitting for untold years. All it needed was to be diluted, which the
alcohol in the replacement fluid did. Problem is that you need to pump the
stuff down the tube, which takes a while. So I disconnected the tube at the
bottom and pumped the clutc pedal. Finally some relatively liquid stuff
came out. I reconnected the tube and let it pump. If there was air in the
system, it eventually bubbled out, and three years later I have not yet
bled the system.

 _______
 |___|__\__==
 | _ |  |  --]   Ned Heite, Camden, DE 19934        <DARWIN><
 =(O)-----(O)=                                        "   "

                             

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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 1996 13:40:49 -0400
From: "Tcoron" <tcoron@nswc.navy.mil>
Subject: Delco alternators, etc.

Greetings:

I'm not on the LRO list, but can receive individual messages if
anyone wishes to enlighten me about Delco alternator installation.
I know there have been a few threads on the subject, but I can't
find any of my old stuff.

Delco part number?

Hints, etc. on mounting brackets?

I really miss the daily digest, and wonder what the old timers
(Terrianne, Mike Rooth, Dixon, etc. are up to). Looking forward
to the day when I can get private email without having to make
a long-distance call, etc.

Feel free to email me in the meantime at tcoron@nswc.navy.mil

Tom Coron                         tcoron@nswc.navy.mil
66 IIA 88 (RHD)                   540-775-4575 

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From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 1996 13:47:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Video of the "Down East" has finally arrived

Quentin,

How does one go about getting a copy of the incriminating evidence?

Larry "Have blank tape, will pay postage" Smith
Chester, VA

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From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 1996 13:47:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Over the top

Paul,

Looks like the bearing on your clutch sleeve are running pretty dry.  May
want to think about another teardown.

Yes, the top cover has a hole and a cotter pin that is supposed to allow
relief of the "air pressure" that builds up, plus a convienient means for
excess 90 weight to be vented out.  What happens is that you continually lose
some 90 weight which keeps the park brake nicely oil soaked.  I used a sheet
metal screw to plug the vent hole, drilled and tapped a 3/8 NPT elbow into
the top to run a line up to the engine bay to vent the "gasses".

Forgot to include the part about you almost having the gear case mated up to
the transfer case, when it won't seat any further.  You need to then "bump"
the starter to get the gears to line up.  Then you can fully seat the OD
unit.

'til later,

Larry Smith
Chester, VA 

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From: RALPH@SMUGGITS.MHS.CompuServe.COM
Date: 25 Oct 96 14:19:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Re: Parabolic Springs.

John,

The airspring setup I envisage is a trailing link setup which will use 
the original front spring hanger (which will be reinforced) to hold a 
half spring which will locate the axles and provide the means through 
which they will be able to travel as before (the path will be slightly 
different, but essentially unchanged.) A panhard rod will be used to 
prevent the axles from moving side to side. The springs have to have the 
following properties.

1. Stiff vertically and horizontally so they allow the air spring to 
provide the springing and locate the axles accuratly, additionally this 
stiffness will resist the axle wrap.

2. Sufficiently torsionally flexible so that along with the deflection of 
the bushes they allow the axle to travel through it's full range.

3. Strong. 

I believe that the use of parabolic springs (or parabolic steel?) is to 
provide these properties. If the parabolic refers to a tapered shape then 
this could be to resist axle wrap, as unless I'm being stupid the force 
required to resist the twisting of the spring by the axle related 
driveline force decreases with distance from the axle. The thinner spring 
section would also allow more twisting of the spring, which satisfies 
section 2. 

I will probably use torsion bars anyway, as it seems like a good idea, 
especially at low off-road speeds as it will prevent damage and give 
better off-road ability.

What book did you get the information from and what are your plans?

Regards,

Ralph.

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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 1996 16:55:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: scooper@scooper.seanet.com (Sandy Cooper)
Subject: Sighting

Saw a series 11a or 111 in the industrial part of Seattle today, pastel
green white hardtop, slight crease on passenger side door, nice shape.
Anyone on our list?  John Cooper 11a

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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 1996 21:57:04 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: HP and Torque limit of IIA drive train

At 10:28 AM 10/25/96 -0400, K.MOHLENHOFF wrote:

>How would you determine the point at which you would need to change the
>drivetrain when swapping an engine? The vehicle is a IIa with rover diffs
;and a 2.25D engine. The manual lists the 6 cylinder as 83HP and 128ft/lbs
>of torque, is this the max? Are there specifications for the gearbox, xfer
>and diffs for maximum stress/strain?
;
>No plans to do it, just curious.
;
I think a lot depends upon how you drive.  If you are into power shifting,
reving the engine and dumpiCheers
>       *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
>       |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>       |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
>       |               From Bartlett@slip.net  Sat Oct 26 21:22:28 1996
	id VAA00359; Sat, 26 Oct 1996 21:22:27 -0700
	by ferret.slip.net with smtp (Exim 0.56 #2)
	id E0vHKzk-00018z-00; Sat, 26 Oct 1996 19:30:37 -0700
Message-ID: <3272C9D6.79BE@slip.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 19:32:54 -0700
From: Jeremy J Bartlett <Bartlett@slip.net>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02E-KIT  (Win16; U)
MIME-Version: 1.0
CC: Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net
Subject: Southdown Armor Installation Report and ?
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
content-length: 1075

I spent/wasted most of today putting front end armor on 
Samson (D90).  I ran into some unexpected problems installing
the Southdown front axle guard.  Apparently the guard cannot
be installed with the front anti-sway bars in place. 
Consequently Samson is now a little looser up front :)
Unfortunately darkness set in before I could finish up (no it was
past sunset not a Lucas worklamp), and I was left with one
problem to solve.  

Installation of the guard requires removal
of the front radius arm to axle bolts.  Upon removal, naturally
enough, the radius arms have drooped slightly so the bolts
cannot be reinserted.

Am I missing something here or can anyone suggest a good
approach to getting these back in place?

My plan for tomorrow is to try jacking directly under the 
radius arm while levering through the offset hole from
one side and inserting the bolt from the other.  I'll be 
inserting the bolt in the opposite direction from the original
(nut will be inside) in order to allow for simpler removal
in the future.  Any comments?

cheers and thanks,

Jeremy

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Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 12:48:50 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: LR Series parts policy

 Welcomed news, Land Rover Netizens!

 Reliable rumors persist in the UK indicating that as of October 28,'96,
 LAND ROVER will dramatically roll back prices on many fast-moving Series
 parts.  This will have a direct effect on LAND ROVER associated parts
 houses such as RN and other 'genuine' parts channels, and may well be
 countered by third party parts suppliers on both sides of the Atlantic.
 However, by no means expect reductions for all 45,000 parts available
 from LAND ROVER in Solihull.

 LAND ROVER has been very complacent in the past and has not pursued an
 active and aggressive parts marketing policy.  Estimates suggest that
 their market share is below 40% for SIII parts.  Although there also have
 been rumors of a desire to establish a 'HERITAGE' vehicles department at
 Solihull, there is no evidence of this yet.

 LAND ROVER has neglected the SIII spares market for many years (with
 inflated prices) and thus allowed a parallel spurious parts network to
 flourish with 'low-quality after-market' parts.  This situation is now
 being redressed.  LAND ROVER lawyers have been busy in the UK and abroad
 during the past months rooting out copyright and logo infringements.
 LAND ROVER interest in recapturing some of the SIII parts market will be
 expressed as its current strategy to cater to the needs of SIII owners
 with genuine parts at 'fair' prices.  Ultimately, the effect will be to
 squeeze the spurious parts suppliers into submission and to regain a
 sizeable chunk of the market again.  Suppliers to LAND ROVER will be
 penalized if they are found to be supplying parts (made specifically for
 a manufacturer to his design) in a parallel market.

 Whether the impetus for such action comes from BMW is hard to say.  It
 is certainly a germanic scenario, but LAND ROVER owners will eventually
 welcome it.  LAND ROVER should be applauded for making efforts to reduce
 prices for genuine spare parts which may ultimately exemplify a new trend
 in the industry.  It appears clear that this renewed interest is the
 result of LAND ROVER's marketing success of its product line here in the
 US, which in in no small way the result of five decades of brand loyalty,
 club activity and resurgent enthusiasm of Solihull's finest vehicles.

 Regards,

 Michael Carradine
 LROA #1258

                       ______
 Michael Carradine     [__[__\==                    Rupert 73-88, ?? 89-RR
 510-988-0900          [________]            Land-Rover Rough+Plushmobiles
 cs@crl.com _________.._(o)__.(o)____...o^^^    www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html

------------------------------
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Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 17:04:09 +0300
From: Raimo =?iso-8859-1?Q?Niemel=E4?=  <rampe@cultnet.fi>
Subject: Gold Rush in Lapland of Finland

Greetings from Finland Friends of Rover
Terveiset Suomesta Hyv=E4t Rover Yst=E4v=E4t

I have two Rovers: P4 1952 and Discovery 1990. In Finland we have Rover Club
"Rover=B4s Friends", in the club are about 600 members and they have all=
 kinds
of Rovers.

My favority hobby is digging the Gold in Lapland. Diggging the Gold and
Discovery fit together. I have own Gold place, where I am four - six weeks
in summertimes.

If somebody is coming to Finland and want to see and to try digging the
gold, they are welcome to my gold place.

I have a proplem with my Discovery. The heater is not made for the cold.
Discovery is very cold in winter. How I can do the heater better. I had the
same problem with my Range Rover 1988.

I live in Tuusula near by Helsinki (30 km). You can send a message:
rampe@cultnet.fi

cheers

Raimo Niemela

------------------------------
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From: jp@post.kosone.com
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 22:38:30 -0400
Subject: Snow Tires - for Canadian winter

Looking to prepare my NAS D90 for a Canadian winter.  I have the OEM
BFG 265/75 R16 BFG Mud/Terrain tires, but have been warned that these
may be unsuitable for snow conditions - clear snow well from the treads,
but may "float" rather than biting down through deep snow.  Is this a 
reasonable comment?  - or commercial b/s?
If another tire is more suitable, which one should I get?  Furthermore,
which tires would be compatible in size with the Land Rover snow chains for
the 244M+S Michelins on my '93 RR County LWB (yes, it *does* go off-road)?

Thanks,
John Pym
 

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Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 20:12:24 -0700
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Rosenkrantz rolls under his own power

Thanks to sage advice from Steve H. of British Pacific, I was able to track
down two problems in my wiring:  One of the brown wires on the battery side
of the starter switch wasn't hooked up, and my fuse box leads needed
cleaning up.  From there, it was a matter of persistence.  My stepson was
trying to start the car while I had the test lamp on the distributor side
of the coil, and it kicked over.  A few more tries did it and it ran.  Then
Spencer F. and I talked on the phone and we figured out that the reason my
headlamps aren't working is that they are burned out (the test lamp shows
them getting power, but they aren't coming on).

Tomorrow, I should have a fully operational Rover!

Chris.

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From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 14:09:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Parabolic Springs.

Ralph wants to re-engineer his LR:
-The airspring setup I envisage is a trailing link setup which will use 
-the original front spring hanger (which will be reinforced) to hold a 
-half spring which will locate the axles and provide the means through 
-which they will be able to travel as before (the path will be slightly 
-different, but essentially unchanged.) A panhard rod will be used to 
-prevent the axles from moving side to side.

This is very similar to the setup used on large truck tractors for the rear
axles. Take a look at the spring setup they use sometime. BTW, what are you
trying to accomplish?

David Cockey
Rochester, MI

------------------------------
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Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 14:59:04 -0700
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Series IIA Electrical (specifically coil)

[Sorry for the cross-post, but I know both lists have people who know about
this stuff.]

I've been wrestling with putting a new wiring harness in my '65 IIA.  It is
a long, sad saga, and I'll spare you the tearful bits.  I bought a test
lamp today, and started tracing from the battery through the system.  The
first place I saw a problem was the fuse box.  A little sand paper and
elbow grease applied to the contacts and that was taken care of.  Now all
the brown, purple, and white leads in the instument panel are hot with the
ignition on.  I even, by some turn of luck have the front left parking
light working!  That was quite a turn for the positive, and engerized me
further.  Next, I started tracing from the battery to the distributor.  One
thing I noticed was that the white wire into the coil was hot, while the
white w/ black wire (mine is actually just black--I assume because it was
done by some PO) leading from the coil to the distributor is not hot.  Note
that there is one lead on the side of the white wire, and two on the side
of the white/black wire.  The wiring diagram shows only two connections to
the coil, however.  So, my question is:  Should the wire (not the big
cable, but the wire) from the coil to the distributor be hot?  

Also, I am able to get the starter motor to crank, but can't get the car to
start, and after a few tries, the positive terminal on the battery (I've
converted to positive earth) no longer shows up as hot.  Disconnecting the
positive terminal and reconnecting it causes it to show up as hot again.  I
noticed that if I shorted the white wire on the coil to the exterior of the
coil, the same thing happened.  

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  I've been without my IIA for
30 days now, and am having to drive my '83 Toyota Tercel 4WD Station Wagon
(as if!), and it's putting me in a bad mood.

Chris
'65 IIA 88" SW
'96 Disco (which the wife drives--at least _she's_ not roverless)

------------------------------
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From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 14:37:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Stage 1 heresy. (New LR speculation)

Richard wonders:
>So, when is Solihull going to replace the Defender?
>Proper Landies seem to have a production life of about 12 or so years
> - Defender must be due for replacement, but it seems like Solihull are
>content to produce SUVs (CB40) and Disco replacements...

One bit of information I heard on this side of the Atlantic is that a very
small group at LR is studying/developing new body/frame technology for a
Defender replacement. Probable date of introduction would be at least 2000.

Don't forget that LR has a major revision of the LR available to military
customers; XD, formerly Project Wolf. This has a stiffened and strengthened
frame (chassis), essentially a new design. The bodywork is also modified. LR
probably figures the less demanding civilians will continue to be satisfied
with the current Defender, but major improvements were needed to continue
winning military contracts.

David Cockey
Rochester, MI

------------------------------
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From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 21:34:59 -0400
Subject: Workin on the Rover....

Had a good day workin on the Rover.

The inside was fairly dirty so it received a good hosing.  Even used a little
engine cleaner and a brush to get some of the dirt and old "?" out.  Got out
the shop vac and picked up the water that didn’t drain out.  

Then, drained the oil and fitted the spin-on oil filter adapter.   Refilled
it with oil and double-checked everything.

Looked at  the right rear turn-signal.  Wouldn’t flash or light.  Left side
was OK.  Took the turn signal brush guard off, the lens off and pulled the
bulb.  It looked fine.  Ohm’d it out and that was fine.  Took the assemble
apart and cleaned it all up a bit.  Checked the voltage to the fixture and it
was fine.   Put everything back together and it worked.  Must have been a bad
ground or something.  On a chronologically-challenged LR?  Go figure....

Oh, it appears the original color must have been something close to blue.. or
what ever the equivalent is.   At least that’s the color under the inside
right rear turn signal  cover.

What’s next?  If it doesn’t rain tomorrow, maybe I’ll take the rear wheels
off and check the brakes.   I’ll order the front brakes next week...out of LR
allowance this month... according to my wife!   :-(      If the rears are
worn, I’ll get them too.

Three questions:  in light of a fairly sketchy history, should I consider
preemptive actions like replacing the water pump?   Timing chain?
  Suggestions?  (Does preemptive work disqualify one from Lazy Bugger status
?)

Another question:  have a Brooklands Book on Series II and IIA, 1958-1971.
 On of the articles is on the Dormobile from 1967.   On of the photos has
what appears to be a speaker grill beside the instrument panel.  It’s a right
hand drive so the grill is to the left of the instruments.  Teri Ann?  Is
that true or is this an anomaly?   Just curious.....

Another question... if  I want to put seats in the back, what’s the best way
of obtaining them?  Bench seats would be OK.  If there any chance of finding
some used ones or should these be purchased from a supplier?

Any help appreciated! 

Gerry Elam
PHX  AZ
'64 Series IIA " Soldado Sangrando"
'96 Disco "Great White"

------------------------------
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Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 20:47:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Blair Gillespie <Gillespie@thegrid.net>
Subject: Sightings

Hi,
        I have been travelling around Ca. on trips the last couple of weeks
and have seen some pretty cool Rovers.
1. 70's vintage Range Rover (Colorado plates)and a great looking blue 2a in
front of the Biltmore in Santa Barbara.
2. 2a 88 in Truckie Ca. with black and yellow plates.
3. 109 3 door in Mount Shasta Ca.
4. Bright Yellow Disco with stickers on I-5 and many Range Rovers.
        Any body from the list?
                        Blair
Blair Gillespie
San Luis Obispo Ca. USA
1988 Range Rover 
1972 S III 88
1967 FLH HD

------------------------------
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Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 14:20:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: rovah@agate.net (John Cassidy)
Subject: Series III dash tray  removal(not instrument cluster)

Hoping that someone has done this before and can give me some help!  I've
been trying all day to get to the hot air distribution box, which is
located just inboard of the steering shaft, and is within the trim pieces
that has the tray in it on the bulkhead.  I removed the plastic tray and
the passenger side air hose.  I removed all the screws along the bottom
edge.  There are two hex head bolts which pass through the piece and into
the bulkhead.  Problem is, they must have nuts on the other side because
they don't come out with turning.   Second problem is that the don't pass
all the way into the engine compartment either.  How do I access the other
side of these buggers!? 8-{
     This is driving me nuts!  Got the new heater controls from
RN...installed the temperature cable fine.  Other cable was not hooked up
and is inoperable.  Have to get into that darn box to fasten it to the flap
that control distribution!

Any help appreciated!  John

John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA

2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover, 1966 Series IIA 88", 1974
Series III 88"

------------------------------
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Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 11:29:33 +1100
From: m.belik@uws.edu.au (Miroslav Belik)
Subject: Steering Problem

Hi all.

As some of you might know I bought a LR a few months ago (Seems like
yesterday) and I asked about adjusting the steering box. Well I did it and
it was steering great until a few days ago. My front of rear spring hanger
collapsed so I replaced it, and after that the steering has been pulling. It
pulls to the the left and then to the right and so on. This means that I
have to keep correcting and sometimes the vehicle is all over the road. What
could the cure for thisbe.

Thanks in advance.
Mirek.
Miroslav Belik                    Email: M.Belik@UWS.EDU.AU        
UWS, Macarthur               Phone: 018-028-708 or 61 2 823 9445
P.O. Box 555                     FAX:   61 46 203025              
Campbelltown, 2560                                                             
NSW      
Australia.
         

------------------------------
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Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 09:11:14 +1100
From: m.belik@uws.edu.au (Miroslav Belik)
Subject: Re: Late IIa Clutch Master

>The clutch master is leaking on my 1970 IIa.  It's a left hooker.  Can
>somebody run down the procedure which requires the fewest number of parts
>to
>be removed to get at the dang thing?  Do I remove the wing or the Brake

I found that the easiest way to do it was, by removing the clutch pedal,
then taking the master cylinder off. It took me 1.5 hours to pull it out
replace and put back. I did however have difficulties bleeding the slave
cylinder. Isntead of the usual  method I pushed  the piston on the slave in
a few times until no air was coming out of the resevoir. This saves on fluid
and is very quick and effective, I have an excellent clutch pedal.

Cheers.

SIII Stage 1 1982 3.9D
Miroslav Belik                    Email: M.Belik@UWS.EDU.AU        
UWS, Macarthur               Phone: 018-028-708 or 61 2 823 9445
P.O. Box 555                     FAX:   61 46 203025              
Campbelltown, 2560                                                             
NSW      
Australia.
         

------------------------------
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Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 16:07:41 +1000
From: Ross <fax.rescue@hunterlink.net.au>
Subject: Depreciations & appreciations

Hello all..
I remarked to a customer (who had his 4dr metallic Discovery automatic) 
parked in my driveway "That looks nice." "Yes" he replied, "it's the 
best car I've ever owned, and I may trade it in on a new one. It's 
depreciated and I'll have to kick in $10,000..."

Well I looked over at 'Castrol' and wondered how much she was saving me 
in depreciation costs etc on a 'recent model' Landie. I am thankful and 
appreciate that the last 6 months (since head gasket) has been very 
consistant/reliable away on trips 3 times (bogged twice)and except for 
services and petrol, it has not needed any money spent on it at all. Is 
anyone else currently having a really good run out of a pre '65? 
Also I put pix of my 2 earlier Landies on Castrol's web page:
http://users.hunterlink.net.au/~derf/swb/index.html
Cheers Ross Fairclough.

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Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 15:02:26 -0700
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Correcton on electrical question

In my previous message, I stated that I'd converted to positive earth.
What I meant to say was that I'd converted from positive earth to negative
earth.

C

------------------------------
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Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 23:19:53 -0700
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Turning indicator wiring in a '65 IIA

[If you're tired of electrical questions, delete this now!]

Having gotten my IIA to run with the new wiring harness, and having figured 
out what to do with the headlamps, I sat down in a cozy chair this evening 
with my trusty shop manual to see how to proceed with the turning indicators.
I found that the IIA shop manual has two bits of info on the turning 
indicators:  jack and sh*t.  No diagrams, no instructions: squat, nil, nada, 
nuttin', zilch.  Sadly this was one of the areas most badly affected by the 
factory-installed Lucas Vehicle Disabling System (LVDS, for short).  All 
these wires in the original harnes were fried.  So, I'm left here without a 
clue.  There's a flasher (no trenchcoat jokes, please), and some wires with 
the appropriate colors.  I do have the wire color document from the Rover 
Web, and will try to muddle through it tomorrow, but suggestions would be 
much welcome.

Chris
'65 IIA 88" SW (almost back on the road)
'96 Disco (no driveline clonk yet)

------------------------------
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From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 1996 14:20:14 -0400
Subject: V-8 Camshaft

Initiates of the List(s): I am seeking your sage advice on a replacement
camshaft for my '83 detox 3.5L ,carbed, 9.35:1 CR, Rangie. In anticipation of
some major engine work I re-read Jim Allens camshaft articles in the Rovers
North newsletter and I have decided to replace the stock (ERC 6849) cam which
is described as a long duration, low lift cam. The Crane HMV 202 (Crane
#890531) recommended is no longer made according to the local speed shop
(Summit Racing). Can anyone verify this and/or recommend a similar cam, i.e.,
compatible with high CR, giving good power from 1500 to 4000 RPM. Ideally it
would have moderate lift but shorter duration, which will yield better low
RPM torque. I am not trying to build a hot rod, but to generally improve
power.  I am also exploring some better carb/induction options, but havent
come to any conclusions yet. My two prime candidates are: 1. Edelbrock
Performer manifold and 500 CFM carb. This is a very tunable setup and is not
affected by blended fuels or ethanol, which looks to me to be the fuels
required by the EPA for most metro areas. The secondary throttles are opened
by air flow .OR 2. The stock dual carb manifold and  SU HIF 44 (old HIF 6). I
actually like SUs, but their long term reliabilty with the new fuels looks
doubtful. Any suggestions? Cheers. Andy Blackley.

------------------------------
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Subject: Re: Series III dash tray  removal(not instrument cluster)
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 96 10:04:42 +0100
From: Marc Rengers <mr@grant.media-gn.nl>

>the bulkhead.  Problem is, they must have nuts on the other side because
>they don't come out with turning.   Second problem is that the don't pass
>all the way into the engine compartment either.  How do I access the other
>side of these buggers!? 8-{

Looked in the Workshop Manual for the SIII and it only says:

LOWER FASCIA
Remove and refit 76.46.05

REMOVING
1. Release the shroud form the steering column and the lower fascia.

2. Remove the heater control panel from the driver's end of the fascia 
and disconnect the distribution control cable.

3. Withdraw the instrument panel clear of the dash.

4. Withdraw the demister hoses.

5. Withdraw the finisher strip from the top edge of the lower fascia.

6. If the vehicle is fitted with auxiliary instruments at the centre of 
the lower fascia, remove as applicable.

7. Remove the top end cover from the lower fascia.

8. Remove the parcel tray.

9. Remove the fixings securing the lower fascia to the dash.

10. Withdraw the lower fascia.

11. If required, remove the heater duct cover and the distribution flap 
valves, as applicable (instruction 3 from 80.10.06).

REFITTING
12. Reverse instructions 1 to 11. Wher applicable, ensure that the gasket 
is fitted between the heater dust and the dash.

HEATER/VENTILATOR AIR FLOW CONTROL CABLE
Remove and refit 80.10.06

REMOVING
1. Remove the heater controls (80.10.02 instructions 1 to 3) and 
disconnect the air flow cable.

2. Remove the lower fascia (76.46.05 <ABOVE>).

3. Remove the heater ducting cover fixings.

4. Withdraw the ducting cover to gain access to the air distribution 
flaps.

5. Withdraw the distribution flaps from the fascia.

6. Disconnect the inner cable at the flaps.

7. Withdraw the outer cable, retained at the ducting cover by a tubular 
clip.

REFITTING
8. Reverse instructions 2 to 7.

9. Refit the heater controls and air flow control cable ensuring full air 
distribution flap operation. The flaps are easily checked after removing 
the air outlet ducts in the lower fascia.

Thats all, nothing more.... except for the explaining pictures. May be I 
can mail them when I get a scanner..........

So no word about nuts on the other side of the bolts as described in 
instuction 9 of 76.46.05

I hope I helped you some more

Marc Rengers
Groningen, Holland
mr@grant.media-gn.nl

   #=====#          #=========#         
   |___|__\___      |____|__|__\___    
   | _ |   |_ |}    |  _ \  |   |_ |}
   "(_)""""(_)"     "-(_)"""""""(_)" 
     SOLD !!                             
 1977  88" III HT    1987 110" StaWag 
    Petrol               Diesel  
   23-67-XB             RH-12-PF

also subscribed to LAND ROVER Owner
International (great magazine)

------------------------------
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