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------------------------------

From: "Niel J. P. Fagan" <NF@orc.soton.ac.uk>
Date:          Thu, 17 Oct 1996 13:40:47 GMT
Subject:       Re: Child seats

For what its worth, our answer was to mount a foward facing seat 
in/on the centre seat in the front (no cubby box) and a rear facing 
pair in the back, easy access, fully supporting in the event of a 
forward impact.

>.
Rgds Niel

Views expressed are personal and not those of the 
University, unless otherwise & expressly stated.

------------------------------

From: Mark.Maslar@software.rockwell.com (Maslar, Mark)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 08:51:30 -0400
Subject: Dynamat description & prices

>From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@bestinforsg.com>
>What did they dynamat in the enclosures?  The plastic wall holding the   
speaker or the surrounding metal?

I'm 99.44% sure that they treated the inner surface of the enclosures,   
not the metal. But I never took it apart to look.

In case anyone else is interested, here is a description of Dynamat,   
quoted from a mail-order catalog.  LR related only if your LR is noisy   
;-)

 -----------------------
Dynamat
Absorbs Road Noise

Applied to sheet metal, fiberglass, or plastic body parts, this thin   
vibration-absorbing material can reduce noise by 3db or more, effectively   
doubling your amplifier power! Dynamat is self-adhesive, but you can use   
a heat gun for better sticking power. Comes in three thicknesses.

Original Dynamat - for floors and doors
32 1/2" x 19 1/2"  $19.95
32 1/2" x 58"  $54.95
32 1/2" x 172 1/2"  $149.95

Dynamat Super - high temperature, double power damping, on firewall,   
floors and doors
32" x 18"  $24.95
32" x 54"  $69.95

Dynamat Flex Light - is ultra-light, thin and flexible. Best for top,   
sides and irregular panels
33" x 58"  $79.95
 -----------------------

This info is from the Crutchfield mail-order catalog. To request a   
catalog, call: 1-800-955-9009 or write to:
Crutchfield
1 Crutchfield Park
Charlottesville, VA 22906

I am not in any way affiliated with Crutchfield nor Dynamat,

Mark Maslar
1995 D90

------------------------------

From: jimallen@onlinecol.com
Date: 17 Oct 1996 07:00:32 MDT
Subject: Valve seats

Sandy,

       Howdy! For what it's worth, I've had toinvesitgate a lot of
goodies while researching some articles (watch December FOur WHeeler).
In any case, the ARB is great stuff- no doubt. THe Safari Gard stuff is
superb. It's very well built but the designs are what sets them apart.
SInce Greg, the owner, is a hardcore Land Rover nut and four wheeler, he
designs the stuff for maximum approach and departure angles and, as you
mentioned, to incorporate a skid plate. He got diff guards, rock
sliders, rear bumbers and quarter panel guards and a host of suspension
improvements! Have a serious look at this stuff!

Jim Allen
jimallen@onlinecol.com

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: No LR Content, but a warning. Save the cash for parts
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 96 09:20:00 DST

At risk of being accused of disseminating worthless and junk bandwidth. I 
bring your attention to the following message I recieved today.

>>The scam works basically like this: >
>>You get home and notice that the message light is blinking >on
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 60 lines)]
>>Communications"@demon.net is BOGUS.  This is a cheaper variant on a
>recent 809-900 pager scam, which costs you $25 if you return the
>call. [Source: *San Francisco Chronicle*, 3 Oct 1996, A2.]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 96 9:17:03 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: HELP, HELP engine AND/OR gearbox change

Hey, calm yourself !
OK so you have a smoky diesel with a noisy gearbox. Is there a problem 
here? They ALL smoke and they're ALL noisy !
Let's see if we can improve the situation just a little. 

Step one: Get a compression test done by a qualified diesel shop. Not 
expensive. This will tell you if the piston rings have gone bad or the 
valve are not seating properly. I will guess that the compression test 
will be OK ,but the valve seals will prove faulty. Apparently it is 
sucking engine oil into the cylinder bore through the valve guides and 
causing an awful stink.
If this is the case, you have the choice of driving it in this condition 
for a while until you are ready for an overhaul or you may choose to 
replace the valve seals only. You can do this only by removing the 
cylinder head, not a difficult chore, but one that takes a bit of time 
due to the number of parts that must be removed to get the head off. A 
good DIESEL shop can recondition the head and clean the injectors for 
you. Much cheaper than that other engine! Injectors are not serviceable 
by the home mechanic. You have just saved 1500 Dfl.

This should rectify the smoking problem, and give a big boost in 
performance, not to mention keep you cool with the Pollution Police. Do 
they back-time the regs to cover older vehicles? Bummer.

You say your engine is losing oil from several places. I'd say you need 
to replace the rear main oil seal. The other leak you describe can be 
repaired by replacing a gasket, and tightening the fitting. The rear seal 
is a big problem because the engine and/or gearbox must be pulled out to 
repair this. Eventually you will be forced to do one or the other, so 
just wait until you have to put in a new clutch or whatever.

Gearbox: 
I can't be sure, but I'd guess at a bad bearing. Overhaul time. Good 
opportunity to replace that rear main seal on the engine. If you attempt 
this yourself, refer to this list for assistance and the Land Rover FAQ 
on the Roverweb page. Or replace it with the rebuilt unit. A fair price, 
I'd say.

It is not wise to trade one set of problems for another. If this engine 
is operating properly and it's only shortcoming is oil consumption, I'd 
repair it. The other engine may have hidden problems that you will not 
find until after you have gone to the trouble of installing it.

Feel better now?

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel.
Soon to be Triumph Trophy owner ?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 96 9:23:53 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Dynamat description & prices...WOW

This sounds like the same crud used for ice dam abatement on roofs. It's 
an asphalt based product that comes in 32 inch wide rolls with some 
sticky suff on the back. I would venture a guess that this dynamat is the 
same thing but priced 2-300 percent higher because of some smart 
marketeer.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel.
Soon to be Triumph Trophy owner ?

------------------------------

Subject: Re: 109 Questions
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 96 15:28:14 +0100
From: Marc Rengers <mr@grant.media-gn.nl>

> 1.  How can one identify a Salsberry (sp?)axle and is this heavier built
>rearend commonplace on a Series III?
>      If not standard on the Series III, would you recommend installing?

I believe the SalisBurry is standard for a 109" SIII. And it's not round 
as a standard LR axle wich fits the 88" SIII, but it's rectangular.

> 2.  Is the conversion to coil springs worth the investment? Expressed
>another way, is the difference in ride significantly better with the coil
>suspension?

Why would you? If you once bought a leafsprung 109" SIII you never want 
to make a conversion. That's because the LR-virus is within you.

If you really want coilsprung buy an early 110 or 90.

But if you wish to convert: do so!

Marc Rengers
Groningen, Holland
mr@grant.media-gn.nl

   #=====#          #=========#         
   |___|__\___      |____|__|__\___    
   | _ |   |_ |}    |  _ \  |   |_ |}
   "(_)""""(_)"     "-(_)"""""""(_)" 
     SOLD !!                             
 1977  88" III HT    1987 110" StaWag 
    Petrol               Diesel  
   23-67-XB             RH-12-PF

also subscribed to LAND ROVER Owner
International (great magazine)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 09:28:48 -0400
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Re: frame galv.

You wrote...
>Do you prime and paint after galvinizing?
>Nate Dunsmore

You can, but have to use the right paints to make it stick. The only stuff
we glav. are trim pieces that don't get painted, and new frames that we
have built. I haven't ever done an old frame, as our galv. company wouldn't
let me do it, without about 7 days of prep removing everything.

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 96 08:29:12 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Rust inside frame members

Truncated from original message

>While coating your frame
>in Hoppe's  #9 might work, I have heard good reports from plain old used
>motor oil. Fill the frame with motor oil, plug all the holes, and slosh it
>around. It helps if the frame is off the car.
>I couldn't agree more Ned.

>There are a huge range of rust inhibiting products available in the
>market but the cheapest and just as effective product is churning around
>in our rover motors.........used motor oil.  Sure it's messier and might
>not smell as nice as a rust inhibitor, but it works.

At the risk of sounding like a know it all :-) Haven't we discussed this 
already??? I thought ther was a general consensus that used motor oil was 
corrosive...gear oil not so...

Dave B.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 09:35:32 -0400
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Re: 109 Questions

> Youw rote...
>is the difference in ride significantly better with the coil
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>Jon and Aaron Haskell
>Discovery and D90HT

        Won't talk about cost, as that is up to you. But you need to look
at a few more things about coil conversions, good and bad. Bad is that it
isn't original. Good is that the ride is the same as a D90 or D110, same
suspension is used. The turning radius drops by about 12 feet. The wider
track feels more stable at highway speeds, The 4 wheel disc brakes are much
better, and the axles themselves are less likely to break half shafts etc,
and the chassis is galv. Also no modifications need to be made to install
the system, you can always go back to original if you and your wallet feel
like it. So when you look at coils, it is more than just the ride, and the
kits come with brakes, suspension, restored axles, swivel balls, galv.
chassis etc.
        Good luck!

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 08:37:14 -0500 (CDT)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: Re: frame galv.

On Wed, 16 Oct 1996, Paul Archibald wrote:
> >        Noticed a few posts about getting old frames galv. Just a note so
> >you can check with your galv. company first. The place we use will NOT
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> >galv. BUT they tell me that the solution used to remove the rust will not
> 	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 12 lines)]
 
the little back-water galvanizing place i go to about
once a year explained it to me that they "...liked paint
removed because they can't guarantee their solution will
remove all types of paint..."  i was told it is a solution
somewhat like lye or caustic soda.  anyway, my pieces are
always clean and come back looking so-o-o good.
Sincerely,
Ray Harder 

------------------------------

From: Joost Kramer <j.kramer@Ehv.Tass.Philips.Com>
Subject: Re: No LR Content, but a warning. Save the cash for parts
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 96 15:48:49 +0200 (DST)

Easton Trevor wrote:

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]

> At risk of being accused of disseminating worthless and junk 
bandwidth. I 
> bring your attention to the following message I recieved today.
> >>The scam works basically like this: >
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> >>You get home and notice that the message light is blinking >on
> 	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 60 lines)]

No message left!

> >>Communications"@demon.net is BOGUS.  This is a cheaper variant 
on a
> >recent 809-900 pager scam, which costs you $25 if you return 
the
> >call. [Source: *San Francisco Chronicle*, 3 Oct 1996, A2.]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 10:01:22 -0400
From: "johnsonm (wk)" <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Lucas! OH Lucas?!  (electrical problems, go figure)

Sunday Night while driving home at night I noticed that my headlights
were very brite.  I could actually see the road, and my console lights
were very visible.  Monday morn my turn signal normal, lights normal. 
Tuesday morn my turn signal was a bit slow, Wednesday even slower.  This
morn no blinks.  Poor thing died as i landed in my parking place, with a
dead battery.

What has happened?
hypothesis 1	voltage regulator died
hypothesis 2	alternator died
hypothesis 3	battery died
hypothesis 4	all of the above

I'm afraid it may be hypothesis 4 in a spirling dead syndrome, chain of
events...  So if this is true,  what is the best type of
alternator/voltage regulator to replace with.

Comments please...

-- 
Mike Johnson
74 SIII 88 (Chester)
73 SIII 88 (Jezabel)

All typographical errors are the sole property of Mike Johnson, and are
my be used without prior consent.

------------------------------

From: Bob Watson <bobw@microsoft.com>
Subject: RE: HUMMER sale
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 07:11:58 -0700

I did something like this here in Seattle. I visited the local HUMMER
test track with fellow in his HUMMER. I was able to do everything his
HUMMER did in my stock Discovery except balance on opposite corners (no
lockers) and climb over a 12" log (Brush bar got in the way). Both the
HUMMER dealer and the owner were suitably impressed. A D-90 w/ lockers
could have easily done everything the HUMMER did (and have $25,000 left
over for spending money). 

Don't let the big, ugly HUMMER intimidate you! (just ask them to follow
you through the woods :-)

-- Bob Watson
'95 Discovery
----------------------
From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 22:11:27 -0400
Subject: HUMMER sale

For what its worth:

HUMMER of Detroit is heavily advertising on radio this week an open
house
with invitation to test drive a HUMMER. Claiming special sale prices
starting
at $39,000. Tag line is: go where no one has gone before. Any LR owners
going
to take up the challenge?

On a more serious note I wonder if this indicates anything about the
market
for expensive off road machines? Maybe LRNA is making the right move
with the
limited run of '97 D90s. Maybe the market of those better than new
series LRs
will soften. Or maybe this is peculair to HUMMERs in Michigan.

Actually the above is intended to waken Jim Pappas and spark another
lecture
on the inherent superiority of LRs.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 07:32:29 -0700
From: Peter Whitbeck <peterw@dnai.com>
Subject: Re: Dunsfold Elephant Hyde

At 03:14 PM 10/16/96 -0700, you wrote:
>British Northwest claims to have some, but I've heard that they have been
>run through the ringer on this list.  Anyon care to comment on them?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>'65 IIA 88" SW
>'96 Disco SD

Hi Chris,

I stopped by British N.W. a year or so ago and Charles told me that yes,
they do have the stuff but he will only use it on jobs that they do in
house. The quote he gave me for having my seats reupholstered and the bases
rebuilt was vague but he said that it would be at least $150 per cushion.

My experience with Charles is that he is very knowledgeable and does some
great work but he has few qualms about boosing his vague quotes by quite a
bit when he sends the final invoice.

Cheers,

Peter
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----

Peter Whitbeck
Orinda, California	          1962 Land Rover 109 Regular "Cornwallis"
peterw@dnai.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 16:31:46 +0200
From: Peter Kutschera <peter@zditf2.arcs.ac.at>
Subject: SIIA 109: Are the 4 rear brake shoes identically?

Hello united whisdom!

I'll have to repair the rear brakes shoes on my 68 SIIA 109" Diesel 
this weekend (new linings - is this the right word?).

It seems that the four brake shoes are identically.
Did I look at the wrong place or are the really equal?

I didn't find anything about diffenent shoes in my manual but I think there
was some discussion about in this list some months ago.

Any help wellcome. Best till tomorrow (friday) till 10:00 GMT.
 Thanks
  Peter 

-- 
Signature: Cogito ergo sum....I think....
Homepage:  http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter
Landrover: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter/LR

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 07:56:01 -0700
From: jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us (john hess)
Subject: elephant hide

Hello

In my quest for elephant hide last year, I came to the conclusion that
dunsfold and charles kellog have the last of it.

Dunsfold wants 30 pounds per meter and didn't seem to be picky about
selling to me (course, I told them I had a Dormobile!)

I met Charles Kellogg at the Portland (OR) All British last year and he
offered to redo all my seats and "make them better than new" but would not
quote a price and would not sell the material.  Upon further prodding, he
told me he wouldn't quote a price until I had been around the block and had
a couple drinks.

That's all I have to say.

jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us
from home via modem
Land-
  -Rover and Mazda owner!  sniff, sniff, bye lovely Tiger.
dormobile page:
http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 16:51:46 -0700
From: Luc Rokegem <defender@belgonet.be>
Subject: Re: HELP, HELP engine AND/OR gearbox change

Huub Pennings wrote:
> Two Month ago I bought my first Land-Rover.(A '88 SIII pick up
> Diesel 2.25 l five bearing engine)
> It was/is in pretty bad condition. I am now faced with the choice what
> to do with the engine and gearbox.

A rebuild gearbox for 450 £ ? Sounds very interesting !  I should go for
it.  Particular if it is rebuild by the army (They use only original
parts and deliver nice work.)  For the secondhand engine, I would be
very
suspicious . For 560 £ you can rebuild your own engine; do it yourself
except for the head and the new liners.  It is not so difficult.
For the moment I'm rebuilding a 2.5 TD and when I got the engine it
was complete dismanteld, and I did not have any trouble to assemble it.
You could also wait till end December : than I'm planning to got my
2.5 D out and replace it with my 2.5 TD.  The engine is in very good
condition, no smoke, starts very fast and easy, and minor oil-leaks.
I will give you even the seals to fix them !  I will sell it for 290 £
The reason for the engine swap = very simple : more power.
regards,  

-- 
 _                  _____       _                             
| |                |  __ \     | |                            
| |    _   _  ___  | |__) |___ | | _____  __ _  ___ _ __ ___  
| |   | | | |/ __| |  _  // _ \| |/ / _ \/ _` |/ _ \ '_ ` _ \ 
| |___| |_| | (__  | | \ \ (_) |   <  __/ (_| |  __/ | | | | |
|______\__,_|\___| |_|  \_\___/|_|\_\___|\__, |\___|_| |_| |_|
                                          __/ |               
                                         |___/                

             _______________                
            //  |           |    St-Pauwels  (Belgie)
      ____ //___|           |#   defender@belgonet.be
     |   __            __   |#   
     |__/  \__________/  \__|    
        \__/          \__/    
http://www.belgonet.be/~bn000165/index.html
    
     \|/
    ( ..)                
--oOO-()-OOo----------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 96 11:17:26 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: elephant hide

Where WOULD an an elepahnt hide, and why?

Heeheeee...

Dave B.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 96 11:31:50 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: turn signals...

ok, so while were at it, my turn signals are acting funny too. The left one goes
blink...blink...blink...blink...blink... and the right goes 
blinkblinkblinkblinkblinkblinkblink.... why is this? The left one doesn't seem 
to speed up with the engine revs.

Not complaining, of course, just curious

Dave b.

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: elephant hide
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 96 16:29:11 BST

> Where WOULD an an elepahnt hide, and why?

In the fridge

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 17:26:16 -0700
From: Luc Rokegem <defender@belgonet.be>
Subject: Re: HELP, HELP engine AND/OR gearbox change

Adams, Bill wrote:
> OK so you have a smoky diesel with a noisy gearbox. Is there a problem
> here? They ALL smoke and they're ALL noisy !
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> sucking engine oil into the cylinder bore through the valve guides and
> causing an awful stink.

hmmmm... So much smoke that you can't see the next house ?  Sounds to me
like a BIG problem.  you must be joking !  A compression test is a waste
off money : you can be damn sure that the valves and the piston-rings
are worn and while you're bussy with the head, you can do it good at
once
and rebuild the whole engine, so you get rid off the oil-leaks also.
next : you can overhaul the injektors yourself : You can buy new nozzles
and replace them. The injektor needs normally no adjusting.
A friend told me that you also can replace the fuelfilter and fill it
complete with injektorcleaner and then start the engine. (I never
tryed it, but it sounds interesting to me).
Sincerely,
-- 
 _                  _____       _                             
| |                |  __ \     | |                            
| |    _   _  ___  | |__) |___ | | _____  __ _  ___ _ __ ___  
| |   | | | |/ __| |  _  // _ \| |/ / _ \/ _` |/ _ \ '_ ` _ \ 
| |___| |_| | (__  | | \ \ (_) |   <  __/ (_| |  __/ | | | | |
|______\__,_|\___| |_|  \_\___/|_|\_\___|\__, |\___|_| |_| |_|
                                          __/ |               
                                         |___/                

             _______________                
            //  |           |    St-Pauwels  (Belgie)
      ____ //___|           |#   defender@belgonet.be
     |   __            __   |#   
     |__/  \__________/  \__|    
        \__/          \__/    
http://www.belgonet.be/~bn000165/index.html
    
     \|/
    ( ..)                
--oOO-()-OOo----------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: elephant hide
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 96 16:36:56 BST

> Where WOULD an an elepahnt hide, and why?
> Heeheeee...

As a follow up to the fridge, there are whole load of these jokes in
England. Redefines "corny jokes":

Q: How can you tell if an elephant has been in the fridge?
A: Footprints in the butter.

Q: How can you tell if two elephants have been in the fridge?
A: Footprints in the butter, *and* the door is slightly ajar.

(Aside:  Q: When is a door, not a door?
         A: When it is a jar)

Q: How do you hide an elephant in custard?
A: Paint its toenails yellow, and dunk it in upside-down.

Q: How do you hide an elephant in a cherry tree?
A: Paint its balls red.

ad nauseum

Q: What do you call an Irishman with a piece of wood in his head?
A: Edward

Q: What do you call an Irishman with 3 pieces of wood in his head?
A: Edward Woodward

etc.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 16:39:33 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: elephant hide

>Where WOULD an an elepahnt hide, and why?

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>Heeheeee...
>Dave B.
In the fridge...you can tell by the footprints in the butter.
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: elephant hide
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 96 16:44:29 BST

More incompetence at the keyboard on my part.
> > Where WOULD an an elepahnt hide, and why?

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]

> > Where WOULD an an elepahnt hide, and why?

I replied "In the fridge" but the domo didn't like it, honest,guv!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 11:47:52 -0400
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Re: turn signals...

Bobeck, David R. wrote:

> ok, so while were at it, my turn signals are acting funny too. The left one goes
> blink...blink...blink...blink...blink... and the right goes
> blinkblinkblinkblinkblinkblinkblink.... why is this? The left one doesn't seem
> to speed up with the engine revs.

Don't know for sure, but when my VW did the same thing years ago, I
replaced the
flasher unit and the problem ended.
-- 
Nate "trial and error,error,error,fixed or replaced" Dunsmore
88" SIIa ("The Blue Brick" http://members.aol.com/naddmd/first.htm )
dunsmo19@us.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 96 12:05:55 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: elephant hide

>>In the fridge...you can tell by the footprints in the butter.
Mike Rooth

Unless of course the refrigerator is running...but then if it's Lucas it 
probably isn't. 

There's your LR content! 

Well, sort of.

Dave B.

------------------------------

From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 12:53:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: elephant hide

Actually the elephant would be MUCH more likely to be in a LUCAS
fridge......After all its probably nice and warm in there.
Quintin

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 12:58:01 -0400
From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re[2]: elephant hide

>>>In the fridge...you can tell by the footprints in the butter.
>>>Mike Rooth

>Unless of course the refrigerator is running...but then if it's Lucas it
>probably isn't.

>There's your LR content!
>Dave B.

Which explains the warm beer!

There's your beer content -- just like the good old days.

RoverOn!

JAB

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 17 Oct 96 10:55:24 EDT
Subject: Re: SIIA 109: Are the 4 rear brake shoes identically?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 09:06:55 -0700
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: Re: HELP, HELP engine AND/OR gearbox change

Huub Pennings writes:
>Diesel 2.25 l five bearing engine)  

These are great engines and worth considerable effort to keep. The 3-main 
bearings alternative would be a step backwards, IMHO. (see Bill Adams' post 
about rebuilding, etc) I wish I had one, they are very strong and only 
lightly stressed. If in very good condition, they should emit almost no 
visible smoke.

>alarming howl in third and fourth gear when the engine was pulling. 
>After topping of the oil the sound was reduced bij 50% but still 

$700 for a rebuilt gearbox is a good price, especially if you get to keep 
the old one, which you can then rebuild yourself (most educational) and keep 
or sell. On the other hand, Land Rover gearboxes are often noisey. Yours may 
continue to work reliably for many miles yet. Watch for metal bits in the 
tranny oil, and change it often (annually, or every 10,000miles) just so you 
can keep track of its condition. 

>The amount of smoke is considerably reduced when the revs go up and 
>the colour of the fumes changes from grey to black.

This is consistant with burning crankcase oil, leaking past valves or rings. 
If rings are the problem, the engine requires rebuilding. If valve seals, 
they need replaced, which can be done with the head on the engine (5-mains 
have external valve stem seals), although it is likely to be instructive to 
look inside with the head off, and not too difficult.

>When I clamp the head ventilator hose on top of the head and make 
>the revs go up the oil comes spurting out this hole....  

This is strong evidence of worn, broken or stuck rings: lots of blowby, 
getting worse as it warms up. If it has a PCV valve, it may be getting 
overwhelmed by the amount of oil flowing through it. This can lead to 
pressurization of the crankcase and really terrible leakage. Check the valve 
for proper operation and orientation. The oil leaks are a separate problem, 
made worse by the blow-by and require replacement of the offending seals. 

>This week I have had an offer of an ex military spare engine (three 
>bearing 2.25l diesel with supposedly low milage like 15 K miles) for 
>1500 Dfl wich is aprox. 900 $ and a rebuilt gearbox for 1200 Dfl.wich 
>is aprox 700 $ What should I do?????

$900 is also a good price for a running engine. I'm surprised that a 
military diesel is 3-main bearing, but my knowledge of European vehicles is 
poor at best. If it's been stored for a long time after a rebuild, it is 
likely to need seals (crank mains, valve stem seals, maybe stuck rings) and 
maybe some other bits repaired. This is nearly as much work as a rebuild, 
although probably cheaper (no machining, bearings, pistons, etc). Consider 
which engine will be easier to get parts for in 10-20 years.

Best of luck, from Washington State, USA

'64 109 diesel 5-door (Safari-SoGoodi) 465,000 miles on the few remaining 
original parts.
jouster@earth.rocket.com (John Ousterhout)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 96 13:11:00 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: HELP, HELP engine AND/OR gearbox change

Luc Rokegem comments:
>next : you can overhaul the injektors yourself : You can buy new nozzles
>and replace them. The injektor needs normally no adjusting.

True. However the overhaul process requires the use of special tools and 
testing equipment that is not practical for the home mechanic to purchase 
for a one-time job. Additionaly, Diesel injector repair is best done by 
professionals who do this stuff all day every day. I can't speak for 
others, but some tasks are best sub-contracted if you know what I mean.

Of course I can't speak to the issue of competent diesel mechanics in the 
Netherlands. 

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel.
Soon to be Triumph Trophy owner ?

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 13:21:59 -0400
Subject: Re: frame galv.

In a message dated 96-10-17 09:50:20 EDT, you write:

>the little back-water galvanizing place i go to about
>once a year explained it to me that they "...liked paint
>re
Ray;
just curious as to why you go back to once a year... are you getting one part
done at a time or is the stuff getting rusty?
are they usinga a hot dip galvanizing process or are they plating it?
there is a difference.
would also appreciate you posting the name of the outfit for future
reference.
Rgds
Steve Bradke 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 13:34:16 -0700
From: hilltop <hilltop@advantage.ca>
Subject: Re: turn signals...

Less impedence = more currant flow = faster flashing. For some reason 
the signal light circuit on the "faster" (blinkblink) side is flowing 
more currant than t'other side, which causes the little spring in the 
flasher to heat up faster which makes it bend which breaks the contact 
and voila, lights flash. Look for a short in the faster side flash 
circuit.      bye

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 10:37:05 -0700
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: turn signals...

Bobeck, David R. wrote:
> ok, so while were at it, my turn signals are acting funny too. The left one goes
> blink...blink...blink...blink...blink... and the right goes
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Not complaining, of course, just curious
> Dave b.

Probably poor grounding (or should that be poorer :) ) on one of the sides (right??) 
causing different resistance and hence blinking rate.
Possibly bizarre failure in the indicator components (less likely?).

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 17 Oct 96 13:44:56 EDT
Subject: Re: turn signals...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 13:43:52 GMT
From: Shawn A Saulnier <shawns@audio-online.com>
Subject: Re: turn signals...

PLEASE TURN THIS OFF! I CANNOT HANDLE THE VOLUME OF MESSAGES!!!!!!!!

At 04:34 PM 10/17/96 -0400, hilltop wrote:
>Less impedence = more currant flow = faster flashing. For some reason 
>the signal light circuit on the "faster" (blinkblink) side is flowing 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>and voila, lights flash. Look for a short in the faster side flash 
>circuit.      bye

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 13:04:47 -6
Subject: Re: 109 Questions

> Jon Haskell wrote:
> >  1.  How can one identify a Salsberry (sp?)axle and is this heavier built
> > rearend commonplace on a Series III?

-
The esaiest way to tell is to look at the rear diff from teh rear. If 
it has a cover plate, it's a salisbury. (or DANA, as they're called 
here in the US)

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 13:07:55 -6
Subject: Re: turn signals...

Dave asks:

> ok, so while were at it, my turn signals are acting funny too. The left one goes
> blink...blink...blink...blink...blink... and the right goes 
> blinkblinkblinkblinkblinkblinkblink.... why is this? The left one doesn't seem 
> to speed up with the engine revs.

Ok. If it happened suddenly, and one speeded up., you either have a 
bad buld on that side or a bad ground for one of the bulbs.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 14:19:39 -0400
From: "johnsonm (wk)" <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: cross reference for alternator  (was: Re: Lucas! OH Lucas?!)

I remember seeing a posting about a URL that has a listing of suitable
parts to use in place of genuine LR bits.  

Does anyone recall where this info is located?  I kinda need to find an
affordable alternator for my daily driver.  Hoping to find which Delco
model to get.

Mike Johnson
74 SIII 88 (Chester)
73 SIII 88 (Jezabel)

All typographical errors are the sole property of Mike Johnson, and may
be used without prior consent.

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Oh No
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 96 09:14:00 DST

GElam30092@aol.com wrote
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 12:35:49 -0400
Subject: Addition to the "family"

Just put a deposit down on a =9264 IIA 88" last night.  Here are the deta=
ils
and a "rough" description of the vehicle:

Tropical roof
Brownchuch rack (supposedly an original one)
Warn wench- chain driven

Oh no more smut,violence too

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 14:26:21 -0500
From: Paul Hanson <"HANSONPA@"@mail.milwaukee.k12.wi.us>
Subject: Complete rear PTO unit offered!

Well, I went and did it! I now have a beautiful Ser2a-'88 with a 
Diesel [2.5].  Yes, it is rather loud but I can use earplugs.  It came 
with an entire rear PTO and driveshaft which I do not need.  If you know 
someone that may be interested...PLEASE have them call or write. I'm not 
sure what it is worth. Do you?
	Peace,
	Paul Hanson 414-662-2536 [late eves.]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 21:39:03 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Oh No

Easton Trevor wrote:
> GElam30092@aol.com wrote
> Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 12:35:49 -0400
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
> Warn wench- chain driven
> Oh no more smut,violence too

Congratulations with the new aqquisition, I guess you will keep the
Tropical roof and Brownchurch rack, but if you want to find a new home
for the warn wench, I'd be happy to oblige. (Unless she's too "worn"
from
being chain-driven)!

-- 
adrian redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
tel: +45 86 57 22 66  e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk

1:	Series III 1976 109" D Pick-up
2:	Series III 1979  88" D Hard top (Icelander)
---------------------------------------------------
"Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!"
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 12:54:19 -0700
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: PAUL HANSON, PLEASE EMAIL ME

>Well, I went and did it! I now have a beautiful Ser2a-'88 with a 
>Diesel [2.5].  Yes, it is rather loud but I can use earplugs.  It came 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>	Peace,
>	Paul Hanson 414-662-2536 [late eves.]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 14:57:05 -0500 (CDT)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: Re: frame galv.

On Thu, 17 Oct 1996 ASFCO@aol.com wrote:
> Subject: Re: frame galv.
> In a message dated 96-10-17 09:50:20 EDT, you write:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> there is a difference.
> would also appreciate you posting the name of the outfit for future
> reference.
 
steve, i am working on the parts of 3 rovers plus some spares.
i like to get the spares all cleaned up and ready and then
swap them on.  it is just as fun as putting on $new$ parts.
i sandblast the smaller parts in a blast cabinet, the larger
parts on the driveway.  i find it relieves on-the-job stress.
when i get a batch together, i drive over.  it is a fun day.
they are easy to get along with and i can watch my order go
thru the processes (from a distance, of course).  first bath
is a caustic soda (removes grease/paint) -- then water.  
then sulfuric acid (removes rust) -- then water.  then
800 degree f molten zinc.  the parts stay in there till they
come up to the 800 degree temperature.  the largest bath is
8ft by 4ft by 40ft.  i have galvanized boat docks, planks, rover
parts, lawn furniture, a grinder base and other misc stuff.
cost was 20 cents per pound but that has gone to 30 cents.
$30 for a typical day, but it has gone as high as $150.  i
usually just wait the 2-3 hours for the parts to come back.
once i had to leave the parts and they must have dropped something
on them (all kinds of huge stuff there) and i suffered some minor
dents.

frames, rims, bulkheads, bumpers (factory/homemade), breakfasts,
roof rack, body trim, windshields, bonnet brace, radiator 
shroud( really helped to strengthen), seat rails, radio-rack, 
door top frames, door bottom frames, rear door frames, wheel chocks,
speaker mounts, headlite-meshes -- in-plan are rollbar and roofrack
-- whatever  makes sense.  i am slowly in the process of welding 
up some  jack-all mounts, and they will be in the next batch.

i have some smaller parts off to be cadiumn plated, but that is
another story, another (similar) process.

Sincerely,

Ray Harder 

BTW, robert monnig industries
     glasgow, mo  (middle of missouri/middle of USA/middle of nowhere)
     816-338-2242
     i work with john

------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 15:17:24 -6
Subject: Re: Complete rear PTO unit offered!

Paul, I tried to reply to you directly, but it got bounced.
E-mail me directly please, I'm interested.

> with an entire rear PTO and driveshaft which I do not need.  If you know 
> someone that may be interested...PLEASE have them call or write. I'm not 

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 14:40:38 -0600
From: Chris Brosious <brosious@pogo.den.mmc.com>
Subject: Speaker Rattle

Doug writes:
>I recently read on the list about someone using dyna-mat around the
>rear speaker enclosures on the D90 to reduce the vibrations.  Could 
>you elaborate a little further on this?  Thanks.  (my speakers are
>vibrating quite a bit now that it's getting colder out and I think
>it's the cabinets that are at fault.)

>Also, do any D90 owners have any problems with a "sticky" shift into
>2nd from 1st gear?  Is this normal, or is there something wrong?

Hey Doug,
my 94 did the same thing, sure enough it was the front of the cabinets. 
The rear speakers are held in with 2 screws at the base, under the
rubber - the top of the front piece just sort'a floats in the cabinet. 
I removed the speakers and used foam rubber weather stripping at the top
of the speaker cabinet (wedges it into the metal frame) and no more
rattle.

As far as your shifting, its its more than a little snick to engage the
gear, or takes real effort to move the lever, then yeah something is
wrong.  Trouble is it could be anything from a misadjusted shiter
linkage to a bad synchro.

Good Luck,

Chris Brosious
'94 D90

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 14:56:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Speaker Rattle

On Thu, 17 Oct 1996, Chris Brosious wrote:

> Trouble is it could be anything from a misadjusted shiter
                                         ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Whoa Nelly! Mud, 90 wt and Guinness are all fine. But not this! Time to
split the list again?

Dave R.

------------------------------

From: "S. Vels" <svels@mail-server.dk-online.dk>
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 1996 00:33:43 +0001
Subject: Re: Axle Breathers

> When gasses heat up, they expand and pressure builds up in an enclosed
> area.

Hot chili made me aware of this long before i got my landy.

rgds
sv/aurens

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 19:13:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Getting Dents out of Doors

Two things come to mind. First, the metal must be annealed befgor trying to
straighten it. Otherwise, it'll crack. Any good bodywork text can describe
the process better than I can here. (Haynes?) Second, you'll need a shrinkin
hammer to use on the inside. The crosshatches in the hammer's face will draw
up the metal and tighten it. Seems strange to use the hammer on the side
that's already poked out, but then, it's a strange world we live in, eh?!?
Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD engine rebuild under way!
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project (going to look at a p5 in western NC this
weekend!!!)
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 20:18:17 -0400
From: "Jeffrey L. Goldman" <roverboy@gis.net>
Subject: Sighting in MA... List member?

        Anyone own the blue 88" I saw tooling down Memorial Drive in
Cambridge today (Thursday 17th). Red, white and blue license plates and a
hoop set with no tilt...

                                                        Jeff...

Boston, MA
1971 88" Series IIA Land Rover (the Get Away vehicle)
1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD (the Getaway vehicle)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 20:42:15 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: Re: turn signals...

On Thu, 17 Oct 96, "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> wrote:

>ok, so while were at it, my turn signals are acting funny too. The left one 
goes
>blink...blink...blink...blink...blink... and the right goes 
>blinkblinkblinkblinkblinkblinkblink.... why is this? The left one doesn't seem 
>to speed up with the engine revs.

It must be something to do with phase of the moon. Just this afternoon I got a 
blinkblinkblinkblink on the right turn signal for the first time ever. Of course 
it is the rear, as usual. Recall the LR "protective mud shield for the rear 
light" thread a few weeks ago, part number BTR1790. Each time this has happened 
I have levered the bulb earth contact out and solved the problem.

Allan Smith
Caribbean Natural Resources Institute
Vieux Fort
St. Lucia, West Indies.
Tel +(758) 454 6060
Fax +(758) 454 5188

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 19:40:47 -0600
From: Rover2a <rover2a@xmission.com>
Subject: Re: turn signals...

hilltop wrote:
> Less impedence = more currant flow = faster flashing. For some reason
> the signal light circuit on the "faster" (blinkblink) side is flowing
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> and voila, lights flash. Look for a short in the faster side flash
> circuit.      bye

this is good,   to the point and not 1 elephant in this note.

but when you check the side with the short, look for greasy elephant toe
print on the light bulb, empty beer bottels and be sure to look for red
painted elephant balls in all the cherry you can find   had to add it.

gar h
slc  ut

67 88 in warm garage
wifes car out side
and so am i

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 21:58:49 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Galvanizing

WRT the thread on galvanizing painted frames/parts, check to see if the 
company "hot tanks" the bits first.  Virginia Galvanizing (before they got 
so bloody expensive) would drop everything into a hydroxide tank first - 
which they said would eat up any paint.  After neutralizing, it went into an 
acid/pickling tank that consumed the rust and pitted the surface so that the 
zinc would stick well.  They also pre-heated all parts with waste heat from 
the zinc bath.  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 21:14:34
From: CarDoctor@gnn.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: Wanted a good NADA frame

Hi All,
 A friend in Iowa has just purchased a NADA in original condision.  He 
feels He should replace the frame. ( I have not seen it)  I will be mailing 
him Mike's email I printed it. But in case there are any other frames for 
this  type LR. out there for sale please send me the info so that I can 
mail it to Him.  
 I will be helping him to get net access in the comming months but for now 
he is without it.  He hopes to offer some parts to those on the net in the 
future.

Thanks 
Rob Davis_Chicago

Failure is not an option
...........Not on my watch

1971 (88)  Treeweaver
1965 (109SW)  OX
1968 (109 three door)  Dad's toy (only the caretaker)
1960 MGA Coupe
1961 MGA Roadster

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 22:03:25 -0400
From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: Speaker Rattle

>Trouble is it could be anything from a misadjusted shiter
>linkage to a bad synchro.
Isn't that one of them fancy Dormobile things?
Sorry didn't mean to say D'mobile...
Mike Johnson  N7WBO

74 SIII 88 (Chester)  175k daily driver
73 SIII 88 (Jezabel)  everyone's gettin a piece

http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 22:26:00 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Old LR Dealers 

I have the books and Ben asks...

>	If I (or Dixon for tha matter) can get a copy, I'll put it on the >       FAQ.
>729 College Ave, Santa Clara, CA 95050, USA

No problem, Ben.. I'll get them out in the US Snail tomorrow or Saturday

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 22:26:09 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Lucas! OH Lucas?!  (electrical problems, go figure)

Mike Johnson and the dead alternator..

>Sunday Night while driving home at night I noticed that my headlights
>were very brite. 
......
>Poor thing died as i landed in my parking place, with a dead battery.
.........
>what is the best type of alternator/voltage regulator to replace with.
-

Sounds like the alternator self-destructed. I think your SerIII alternator
has an internal regulator.. (I know mine did).

You can modify a Delco to fit in place of the Lucas. There are a bunch of
ways to do it - mostly you have to be inventive.

Pick up a 66 amp Delco at the local junkyard. What I did with mine was to
modify (with a hacksaw) the lower mount on the alternator so that it would
fit the Rover mounts and the pulley would line up correctly.

As far as wiring... There is a screw post on the Delco. That is the output.
There is also a small two-wire plug. You can pick up a replacement plug at
most auto parts places. It has a red wire and a white wire. Connect the
white wire to the smaller guage wire that went to the Lucas alternator.
Connect the red wire to the screw post, together with the heavier guage wire
(that was connected to the Lucas alt.) Voila! That's it.

Now, just in case my memory isn't right, the two wires in the plug do this -
One - the white wire (I think) goes to the warning light in the dash.
The Other - the red wire - is a sense input to the internal regulator.

Good luck with it all!

Cheers
Mike Loiodice
166 W. Fulton St.                  1965 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Faded Green     
Gloversville                       1972 SerIII 88 Petrol - Fern Camo
NY  12078  (USA)        7          1971 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Red and Blue
                     #:-}>         1964 Triumph Spitfire - BRG

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 22:26:02 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: elephant hide

>>Where WOULD an an elepahnt hide, and why?
>In the fridge...you can tell by the footprints in the butter.

-

Better yet... Where are elephants found??

Elephants are such darned big animals, they hardly ever get lost...

In the words of W.C.Fields... "Elephants! Yes, in abundance..."

I'll go back to sleep now..
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 22:26:03 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: RE: mounting a Jack-all and rear seating on a D90

Another expose..

>> With the top off, everything in the back is exposed.  Fortunately or
.....
>When trying to mount your jack, you find everything is exposed when you   
>take your top off...
......
>Howabout strapping your wife to the bench seat, too?   
......
>If I strap my wife in to the rear seat, and she takes her top off, is   
>everything exposed?
......

You know... that *is* legal in New York... Of course, it's a bit on the
c-c-cold side this time of year....

Cheers.. or is that leers??
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 22:26:07 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: turn signals...

Dave Bobeck goes...

>blink...blink...blink...blink...blink... 
>blinkblinkblinkblinkblinkblinkblink.... 
-

And a bunch of people responded..

This *is* a strange bunch, isn't it? :)

Yeah, well.. all of the above reasons were good.. You definately got a
differant amount of current flowing in each circuit. Got the right bulbs -
or at least the same bulbs - in all the sockets? That could do it too, but I
would lean towards bad grounds. You get mud and crud up through the bottom
of the rear box where the cable harness goes and it tends to destroy all the
connections. The grounds all run to a common connection on the body. Stupid
design.

If you turn on the parking lights is there any noticable change in blinker
speed? Better yet, do you notice the parking lights blinking too - very
weakly? Both indicate bad grounds.

Cound be just dirty connections in the harness..

Could be just old Joe Lucas...

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 23:40:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: rovah@agate.net (John Cassidy)
Subject: Running Problems-It's not the Carb!

Well, I took the brand new Weber off the IIA and put it on the III to see
if the trouble I've been having with idle and acceleration are in Zenith or
not.  Weber did the same thing!  Saves a trip to the shop for the Zenith,
but I've still got the problems.
     The symptoms are consistent with running too lean; crackling and
popping noises in the carb at idle.  Smooth acceleration if the throttle is
advanced slowly, but nearly stalling with rapid acceleration.  Not really
drivable without at least 1/4 choke.
     Where else should I be looking for problems!?  After taking the carb
off and putting it back on about12 times, I'm glad I can finally leave it
on!;-) Fuel line is definitely not original, but seems to work fine.  Where
are other places that air could enter into the system?

Any help appreciated!   Thanks! John

John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA

2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover, 1966 Series IIA 88", 1974
Series III 88"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Oct 1996 00:11:24 -0300
From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
Subject: Re: Speaker Rattle

> Trouble is it could be anything from a misadjusted shiter
>linkage to a bad synchro.
>Good Luck,

OW!  Oh man, I HATE when that happens. just sorta ruins the whole day, ya know?

you can lead a horse to water, but if the silly beast drinks till he bursts,
all you have to show for your good intentions is a dead horse.

Steve Paustian
Flatland Rover Society

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: are 2.3 injector the same as the 2.5s ?
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 1996 08:35:53 +0200 (MET DST)

Hello folks,
I need new injectors for my 2.5D (norm. asp.) and a friend has
lying around a set he bought for his SIII 2.3D. My manual says
CAV injectors BDNO/SPC 6209 or BDNO/SP 6209 (btw. what's the difference?)
for both the 2.3D and the 2.5D that where fitted to the 110. The box of 
my friend says 
CAV 5650091
247726
QTY1
20829 D3201HJP
Though ?????????????
Can anyone with a parts catalogue please clear that up?

Many THANKS in advance
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

From: lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.uk (Lucas Rists)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 96 07:55:01
Subject: Re: Running Problems-It's not the Carb!

On Thu 17 Oct 96 (23:40:54), rovah@agate.net wrote:
>Well, I took the brand new Weber off the IIA and put it on the III to
>see if the trouble I've been having with idle and acceleration are in
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 27 lines)]
>4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover, 1966 Series IIA 88", 1974
>Series III 88"
Some suggestions for places to look for air leaks/restriction:

(Obvioulsy)The gaskets that the carb is fitted to the manifold with.
Cracked manifolds.
Collapsed air filter hose (the material inside the "hose" can collapse causing
a restirction, you need to take it off and look inside).
Too little oil in tha air filter.
Too much oil in the air filter.
(Obviously) Have you checked the ignition timing & sparkplugs (a cracked
insulator in one or more spark plugs can cause symptoms like you describe)
Blocked/dirty fuel filter.
Iffy fuel pump.

(Now getting desperate) Head gasket (not likely, but possible).

And of course the other 3 miilion problems that it could be that don't spring
to mind at the moment.

Richard
-- 
 --. --. --. --. : : --- --- .---------------------------------------------.
 |_| |_| | _ | | | | |_   |  |Internet provider for all Acorn RISC machines|
 | | |\  | | | | |\| |    |  '---------------------------------------------'
 | | | \ |_| |_| | | |__  |  lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.uk

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Old LR Dealers 
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 1996 01:48:55 -0700
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@netgate.net>

In message <bulk.16840.19961017192251@Land-Rover.Team.Net>you write:
  
> No problem, Ben.. I'll get them out in the US Snail tomorrow or Saturday

	Thanks Mike.

Ben

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Oct 1996 10:55:24 +0200
From: pwakefie@esis.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield - System Manager (SERCO) X492)
Subject: Hi lifts and lift offs

Hi All

	All this talk about Hi lift mounting / roll-overs recently has made me 
think about the combination of the two. 

I store my Hi lift behind the front seats, lengthwise in my SIII 109" but in the 
case of a roll-over it will become a highly lethal (several Kilos of steel & 
cast iron) moving projectile around the inside of the Truck, joined shortly 
afterwards by its chum, an ammunition box filled with a 5 metre recovery chain.

A nice combination, not. I think the first job before it rejoins the vehicle rat 
race is to chain, lock, bolt or tie down all of this junk in the truck.

(BTW for our USA bretheren, feet = Metres x  3.281, pound = kilo x 2.205 !) 
(anybody weighed a Hi lift?)

> From: cmw@tiac.net (Christopher Weinbeck)
> Subject: Pistons! /stickers?

As regards the window sticker idea, great, but putting LRO@Land-Rover.Team.Net
on it ? hmm, sounds like an open invitation to the junk-mailers and spammers.

Yuk.

Regards, Paul.

P.S. Richard says: 'smacking distance of the child'
     Hope you aren't advocating corporal punishment :-O !

[& Ducks down again, in the hope of dodging another 'controversial subject' 
flame war.... :-) ] 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Oct 1996 10:32:48 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Running Problems-It's not the Carb!

>     Where else should I be looking for problems!?
Could it be the fuel pump?
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Oct 1996 10:58:25 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re[2]: elephant hide

In the fridge...you can tell by the footprints in the butter.

Unless of course the refrigerator is running...but then if it's Lucas it
probably isn't.

Doesnt matter if the fridge *is* running.The elephant can easily catch it.

Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: elephant hide
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 96 11:04:55 BST

> In the fridge...you can tell by the footprints in the butter.
> Unless of course the refrigerator is running...but then if it's Lucas it
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> probably isn't.
> Doesnt matter if the fridge *is* running.The elephant can easily cat-chit.

Bl*dy big cat!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Oct 1996 18:09:23 +0800
From: James Mercer <james@mips.cs.murdoch.edu.au>
Subject: Series 1 story...

Hi All,

Found an interesting LR story in a magazine the otherday...

The local LR dealer has managed to get hold of a Series 1 Land 
Rover with a grand total of 1508 miles on it.
It was bought new by a Victorian framer, and then parked in his shed.

According to the article, the Landy still had the original oil in the
engine, the original tyres (including a spare that had never touched 
the ground). The toolkit was wrapped in a 1955 newspaper.

All that was required was a change fluids and the wheel bearings
were replaced as they had developed flat spots from being 
parked for so long.

He is not interested in selling it either :(

Later,
James.

------------------------------

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