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msgSender linesSubject
1 eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heit51Rust inside frame members
2 "Steve Reddock" [steve_r30Murricans
3 AKBLACKLEY@aol.com 21Waxoyl
4 Bill [whitmore@qatar.net6(no subject)
5 Rob MacCormick [Rob_MacC21Lucas/dormobiles/ECR
6 "Tom Rowe" [trowe@aae.wi38Re: Hardened Valve Seats
7 "Bobeck, David R." [dbob17Re[6]:
8 "Tom Rowe" [trowe@aae.wi23Re: The Prince and his minions
9 twakeman@scruznet.com (T19Re: "88" Roofsides (station wagon type)
10 daviscar@concentric.net 30The dormobile controversey
11 "Tom Rowe" [trowe@aae.wi22Re: The Prince and his minions
12 ecrover@midcoast.com (Ea50Re: Dormobiles, and the Davis Bros.
13 "Bobeck, David R." [dbob18Re[2]: Hardened Valve Seats
14 "Alan Logue" [logue@a01127Re: Hardened Valve Seats
15 clantoc@ebs.ac.com (Chri19Sighting
16 "Bobeck, David R." [dbob13Re[2]: Dormobiles, and the Davis Bros.
17 Brett Johnson [brettj@oz6unsubscribe
18 jimallen@207.174.8.25 38Hardened Valve Seats
19 ecrover@midcoast.com (Ea36and now to bed
20 ecrover@midcoast.com (Ea17Re[2]: Dormobiles, and the Davis Bros.
21 ericz@cloud9.net 23Unleaded Fuel...
22 ericz@cloud9.net 16Insulation sources...
23 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em19Re: Dormobiles and selective parts selling.
24 "Bobeck, David R." [dbob103LRNA test grounds, scouting report (long)
25 "Adams, Bill" [badams@us18Frame gooping and rust...
26 "Boehme, Doug" [dboehme@19dyna-mat
27 rick.crider@trellis.net 27Re: Insulation sources...
28 "Ron Franklin" [oldhaven46Re: Dormobiles
29 Blair Gillespie [Gillesp16Re: The dormobile controversey
30 ASFCO@aol.com 37Re: LRNA test grounds
31 Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A5Anybody got a part # for steering relay seals?
32 "Bobeck, David R." [dbob21Re[2]: LRNA test grounds
33 Uncle Roger [sinasohn@cr21Re: No mail??
34 "Boehme, Doug" [dboehme@35RE: Re[2]: LRNA test grounds
35 "Boehme, Doug" [dboehme@23mounting a Jack-all
36 David Rosenbaum [rosenba18Re: mounting a Jack-all
37 jouster@rocket.com (John12mounting a Jack
38 "johnsonm (wk)" [johnson15Re: mounting a Jack-all
39 lopezba@atnet.at 53Re: Waxoyl
40 lopezba@atnet.at 29Re: Dormobile restaurations
41 lopezba@atnet.at 17Re: Little girls and big cars
42 David Rosenbaum [rosenba17Re: mounting a Jack-all
43 "Boehme, Doug" [dboehme@32RE: mounting a Jack-all
44 Jeffrey A Berg [jeff@pur58ATTN: Neil Sheridan/Rollbar details.
45 Jeffrey A Berg [jeff@pur22Re: Camel Trophy stuff
46 bruce.curtis@Eng.Sun.COM15Mail outage this last weekend ...
47 Jeff & Laura Kessler [lm30Starting a Series LR dealership
48 debrown@srp.gov 25Parts posting...
49 David Place [dplace@mb.s17Re: mounting a Jack-all
50 Uncle Roger [sinasohn@ri34Re: McCarthyism, Witch Hunts, etc..
51 Benjamin Allan Smith [be52[not specified]
52 Uncle Roger [sinasohn@cr26Re: Little girls and big cars
53 "Ron Franklin" [oldhaven18used frame FS
54 Wdcockey@aol.com 31Old LR Dealers
55 Allan Smith [smitha@cand29Re: 1st - 2nd gear D90
56 MHKINGER@aol.com 7subscribe
57 Wdcockey@aol.com 53Re: Re: Re: Re: Dormobile restaurations (rambles)
58 MHKINGER@aol.com 10Birmabright
59 twakeman@scruznet.com (T20Re: Re[2]: Dormobiles, and the Davis Bros.
60 Michel Bertrand [mbertra33Re: Old LR Dealers
61 twakeman@scruznet.com (T44Dormobiles
62 jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.c23dormobile seats!
63 jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.c19UK address (or phone or fax) needed
64 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em26Re: Re: Re: Re: Dormobile restaurations (rambles)
65 faurecm@halcyon.com (C. 44Re: 3.9 and 4.0 engines
66 Jeremy J Bartlett [Bartl24Re: Birmabright
67 landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mi20Re: Old LR Dealers
68 landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mi7Sad Sighting
69 bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Boh28RE: mounting a Jack-all
70 RALPH@SMUGGITS.MHS.Compu17Re: Insulation sources...
71 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u30Re: Help still required with Brake test switch and servos
72 "Huub Pennings" [penning14 importing land-rover from UK to Holland
73 Tom Cooper [tomcoop@ozem18Re: Latest ramblings of a hopeless Rover fanatic.


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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 07:42:23 -0500
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Subject: Rust inside frame members

Rust is a self-propagating problem. Ask any museum curator or
archaeological conservator. Rust is like fire, which is the same thing only
faster: both are oxidation. In order to stop the oxidation process, either
as rust or as fire, you must remove the fuel, the oxygen, or the
temperature. Since you can't freeze the frame cold enough and still start
your car, the easiest course is to remove the oxygen, since the "fuel" in
this case is your frame's metal.

A museum conservator will try to eliminate the oxygen, but the conservator
will first try to remove the unstable oxides. This simply cannot be done on
an automobile. Anyone who has ever had rust patches "fixed" by a cheap
paint shop will know that some rust will return unless all the oxidation
has been removed, which is why reputable body shops will weld fresh metal
in place of rust.

In our Land Rover frames, it is fairly easy to paint the outside of our
frame members, which protects the outside but does nothing for the inside.
If the frame is rust-free, which is true only when the frame is new, it can
be dipped or galvanized.  So a new galvanized or dipped frame is the best
answer to the rust problem.

Now, if the frame already has rust on it, the conservator has a different
problem. In this case, it is necessary to isolate the oxides from the
endangered metal. The conservator in such a case will choose to isolate the
rust from the metal, and not to bind them together. In other words, if you
paint over a rusted surface, you are actually encouraging rust.

Inside the frame, our choices are limited. In order to stop the rust we
must not only coat the susceptible metal, but isolate it from the existing
corrosion.

IMHO, the only way to protect the interior of a rusted frame member is to
fill it with a material that will simultaneously coat the metal and isolate
the rust. Waxoyl may be such a product, but one must ask if it actually
penetrates the rust and isolates the rust from the virgin metal. Oil, just
plain oil, has been used by gun owners for years. While coating your frame
in Hoppe's  #9 might work, I have heard good reports from plain old used
motor oil. Fill the frame with motor oil, plug all the holes, and slosh it
around. It helps if the frame is off the car.

 _______
 |___|__\__==
 | _ |  |  --]   Ned Heite, Camden, DE 19934        <DARWIN><
 =(O)-----(O)=                                        "   "

                             

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 07:41:10 EDT
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Murricans

Mike said:
|>Alexander P. Grice wrote:
|>> The 50 Camel Trophy hats
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
|Yeah,well,apart from the ones they kept for themselves,no doubt......
|Mike Rooth

How could you Mike?  Suggesting that the US customs service is
not 100% honest?  Next you'll be suggesting they can't spell,
talk funny, have the wrong sized gallons, fuel so cheap it's
nearly free, they are remarkable anal about the tiniest detail
and cannot take a little constructive criticism.

For proof of the spelling/talking bit, I have only met one from
over there who could pronounce Beaulieu and he baulked at
Featherstone-Haugh.

Peasants the lot of you.

Cheers, Steve

Steve Reddock, Xyratex        |  "NEVER QUESTION AN
Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450      |   ENGINEER'S OPINION,
IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P)            |   YOU THUNDERING MORON !"
Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com  |     - Dogbert 1996

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From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 08:00:37 -0400
Subject: Waxoyl

Steve Bradke inquired about subject. Steve: You can NEVER have enough of this
stuff! Use on the bulkhead hinge posts by removing the top most hinge bolt
and spraying down inside (be careful if the bolt has never been removed as
brute force will wreck the captive nut). If necessary drill a discreet hole.
The frame of course is where you really need it, but the door frames (inside,
all around), door tops, and the rear (safari) door are all good candidates. I
found that thinning the stuff with mineral spirits and spraying with
compressed air works best. I bought a "professional rustproofing kit" some
years back from J.C. Whitney which has numerous fittings, a wand,a spray
bottle with an air chuck. You assemble the wand (which comes in pieces,)
thread it through a drain hole in the frame, or through the rear crossmember,
and slowly withdraw it while spraying. This method can use all of your supply
rapidly, but it really lays the stuff down. The spray tips insure complete
360 deg. coverage.This works way better than the pump that comes with the
Waxoyl kit. Cheers. Andy Blackley. 

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 15:21:37 +0400
From: Bill <whitmore@qatar.net.qa>
Subject: (no subject)

unsubscribe whitmore@qatar.net.qa

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 08:44:25 -0400
From: Rob MacCormick <Rob_MacCormick@Harvard.Edu>
Subject: Lucas/dormobiles/ECR

Eeeek, and it's not even halloween yet!! Yesterday my wife was pulling some
small stumps...She's tough but 8 months pregnant so she was using the
"Landie" (can I use that word?) for assistance.....Out of the side window
comes "Hey....I think I now know that burning electrical smell you were
talking about is"...Arg! Out comes the stump, back into the garage goes the
dormobile...Ulp...I said it "dormobile" I'll bet any reader now  has
preconceived notions of who I am what my personality is, what I look like
etc.....We haven't named the dormobile yet...gotta come up with a name for
the bbbbbbaby first....No typo, just nerves.....It'll be our first...Good
story Rob, what's the point??? Well none really...just mumbling on...While
I'm here, I'll vouch for East Coast Rovers and Mike Smith.....Although he
didn't sell us our dormobile he was instrumental in the process, (suffice to
say that the sale wouldn't have happened without his help) actually I recall
that he was/is more helpful than I could have anticipated Alan too.......I
feel fortunate to have met them....As for the Davis bros. never met them, so
I couldn't say, either way.....Rob M Concord, MA USA

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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 07:59:39 -6
Subject: Re: Hardened Valve Seats

Silver Kris asks:

> Does anyone on the list know if the 6 cylinder 2.6l engine is able to run
> on unleaded petrol?
> And if hardened valve seats are required, where can I get them?

-
This seems to be a recurring question. The answer is that engines 
designed for leaded petrol will run fine (for many many years 
assuming they are in decent shape to begin with) on unleaded. There 
is *no* reason, unless you have lot's of money to burn, to replace 
the valve seats. If you ever need to do a valve job then you can put 
in hardened seats then. Running on unleaded will *eventually* require 
that, maybe after 80,000 miles or so. I've noticed that Land Rover 
World is making a big stink about the switch in the UK. The same 
things were said here in the US way back. The only real problem I see 
is that they add benzene to gas instead of the lead. So you get to 
trade leukemia for nerve damage I guess.

As for 6cyl hardened seats, I'm not aware of any, but I never looked 
for any for mine. Maybe someone else has researched it.
But any competent machine shop should be able to find some that 
you can use if you really want them.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 96 08:00:45 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[6]: 

Somebody gets mad:

>>>Idiot, why ask then?

Answered your own question, eh? :)

Dave "Mr. Idiot" B. 

.---------------------------------------------.
 |_| |_| | _ | | | | |_   |  |Internet provider for all Acorn RISC machines|
 | | |\  | | | | |\| |    |  '---------------------------------------------'
 | | | \ |_| |_| | | |__  |  lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.uk

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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 08:05:32 -6
Subject: Re: The Prince and his minions

sandy asks:
snip
> system is working.  Well, what if just *one* is slow?  Left turn - normal 
> frequency.  Right turn, real ssloowww, like the alternator wasn't working or 
snip
Let's see if I remember this right....
Left turn slow...ok, that means the right coil in the alternator is going.
If it's a generator then the left one is failing.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 06:19:01 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: "88" Roofsides (station wagon type)

At  2:16 AM 10/15/96 -0400, s stoneham wrote:

>Hi all,
>I've recently come across some station wagon roof sides while searching for
;parts.
>These are apparently from an "88" but look similar to the ones on my
>NADA,the workshop manual shows
;
Steve
The 88 and 109 five door takes the same top sides.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

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From: daviscar@concentric.net
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 09:20:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: The dormobile controversey

Hi All

Please note the Davis brothers did not bring this to the list first.
I am not crazy And I did not call anyone any names
I am responsibile for only what I post.

Well I guess I owe the list a big apology for all this stuff with Mr Smith.
TO THE LIST I AM SORRY

Mr Smith I want you and the list to understand this all started by me
posting about politeness in reply posts it had only a little to do with you.
it would seem you are like most people and can't take consturtive criticism
in any form. Even when not directed at you specifically.

But as I am a man of my word The list seems to think I owe you an apology as
well so:
Mr. Smith/ Mr X I am sorry

This matter will be close after this post as far as I am concerned.
Bruce
67 SIIA 88 Patches
59 109 SW (no name yet) (home now.)
Daviscar@concentric.net
       

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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 08:23:47 -6
Subject: Re: The Prince and his minions

John O writes:
> Slow turn clicker (AKA the can full of blinks), in one direction. This means 
> the resistive load on that circuit is smaller than the faster one. Commonly 
> this is either a bad ground, or a burnt out lamp.

snip
This is true if one side *speeds up*, but he had one slow down.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 09:27:44 -0400
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Re: Dormobiles, and the Davis Bros.

>On Sun, 13 Oct 1996, East Coast Rover Co. wrote:

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>> so wrong with that!
>        Define a MW restoration...
        A Martin Walters restoration, for the type of parts that I
sometimes have, means someone with a nearly complete Rover, that needs the
bits I have to make it more complete. And especially members of the
Dormobile Owners' Club.

>        Certainly, they are your parts/vehicles.  If you want to let them rot,
>        that is your decision,

        Don't know what you've been told, but I have 2 front seats, a
wardrobe and that is it. I certainly don't feel like I'm sitting on a pile
of parts to let rot.

>        but while you sound aggrevied here, I do see
>        more than one message from people you seem to have upset in some
>        fashion of the other.

        In that way you are wrong. I have had trouble with the Davis
brothers, but I have had about 20 personal emails of people saying, don't
worry, and thanks very much for the support. Even Teri Ann and I have no
problems.

>        You say that thes parts will eventually go to
>        people with 3-door conversions and 88's.  To keep people happy,
>        when will this be?  If it is never, say so rather than have them
>        wait with some false hope.

        Yes I did say that, and they have and will. Ron Franklin got a
Dormobile roof *3 door conversion*, Doug Shipman got a sink/ stove
*Dormobile with a V8 Ford in it*, and so on. Seats got sold on Sat. to a
guy with a 61, and the rest looks like it is going to Chris Weinbeck to
finish off his project.
        Totally unhelpfull aren't I, to help out the list above.

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 96 09:38:54 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Hardened Valve Seats

>>>hardened seats
>>>are not available. 
>>>I tried asking around when I had my 2.6 to see if there were seats available
>>>from another source, but did not really get anywhere. 

Richard

I would imagine your local machine shop would have a proper seat for just about 
any head. Just because LR or other parts company doesn't make one, doesn't mean 
squat. I could have bought LR seats when I had my head done, but the shop's 
seats were 1/2 the price, including installation.

Dave B.

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From: "Alan Logue" <logue@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: Re: Hardened Valve Seats
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 22:43:49 +0930

Lawrence
Everything I have seen and read has indicated that this engine CANNOT be
run on unleaded.
Its been written in LRO and LRW, as well as a couple of Aussie Mags.

It has the potential, and reputation of burning out exhaust valves and it
would only be worse with unleaded.

I do know some locals here in our Land Rover club who have had gas put on
the 2.6 and have had no problems that I have heard about.

Alan
ExArmy1092.6FFRMP

----------
> From: Silver Kris <silkris@pacific.net.sg>
> To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
> Lawrence
> Singapore (where chewing gum is a crime)
> LR 109 Ser III 2.6l

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 08:35:48 -0500
From: clantoc@ebs.ac.com (Chris Clanton - Via)
Subject: Sighting

Anyone mind if I take a step away from the Dormobile issue?
I saw a Series IIa 88" RHD soft top with full hoops yesterday
driving west out of Minneapolis, MN on 394 at around 5:30 PM.  
Nice Rover!  Anyone on the list?

-cjc

               
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+ Christopher J.  Clanton  +   e-mail:	clantoc@ebs.ac.com
+ Andersen Consulting      +   Work:	(612) 317-7523
+ 333 South Seventh St.    +   Fax:	(612) 317-7575
+ Minneapolis, MN 55402    +   
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 96 09:51:11 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Dormobiles, and the Davis Bros.

       >>>> Totally unhelpfull aren't I, to help out the list above.

I think you did the right thing, Mike. Hats off to you for looking out for these
rare vehicles and the people that struggle with putting them back together.

Say, got any 109 frames? :-)

Dave "taking cover" B.

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 23:55:19 +1000
From: Brett Johnson <brettj@ozemail.com.au>
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe

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From: jimallen@207.174.8.25
Date: 15 Oct 1996 08:06:18 MDT
Subject: Hardened Valve Seats

Lawrence,

       In theory, all non-hardened valve seat engines will sufferfrom
unleaded fuel. In practice, it isn't as big an issue as it's often
portrayed.
       Several old car enthusiast organizations here in the USA have run
tests to determine the effects of unleaded fuel on engines that weren't
built for it. I ran a 50,000 mile test myself. Here are the results.
       The old car guys determined that low power engines (the 2,25 &
2.6L certainly qualify) that are run in low stress environments suffer
only about a 20% loss ofvalve life. Low stress means no sustained high
speeds (55mph or more) and no hard pulling. Older hi-performance cars
were at more risk.
       My test confirmed this. I did a traditional valve job on a 2.25L
and ran it 50K miles and tore it down. I drove normally in what I might
call a medium to high stress manner.Upon teardown, I noted some valve
seat recession but having torn down a lot of similar engines as a Land
Rover mechanic, it did not look out of bounds with reality. I would make
a guess that the valves had the look of about 80K miles.
       For what it's worth, I would run your vehicle until it needs a
valve job, then install hard seats. I would not regard it as some sort
of an emergency.Beyond valve seat recession, there isno other worries in
using unleaded petrol as long as the octane rating is adequate - which
it should be. In fact, unleaded fuel often leaves fewer deposits inside
the engine.
       With regards to actual parts, any competant machinist should be
able to find hardened seats for you. He'll need to know the sizes of you
valves and might actually need to have the engine apart to make a final
determination. Don't sweat it!

Jim
jimallen@onlinecol.com

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 10:09:01 -0400
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: and now to bed

Dear all,
        This is hopefully yhr last post about this subject. I can imagine
the people from far away wondering what the hell we are going on about.
        Anyway...Everyone is entitled to their opinion! Everyone, me, the
Davis bros. everyone. The only reason I even got involved in this is that
even if people got to great lengths to keep Mr X out of it, I'm not that
type of person who will just sit back and take any kind of grief, even if
information is kept back about who Mr X is. As most of you on this list, or
who know me in person know, if I have something to say... I'll just say it,
good or bad, politically correct or not. *not the best policy sometimes,
but at least I'm consistant*
        You've all heard plenty on the ridiculous subject, and even seen
the actual post I sent to one of the Davis'. So the fact is, enough posts,
we do not agree on where Dormobile parts should go. No problem, we just
don't agree. But normally I won't post that to the net. I'll just say, what
a jerk to myself *if I think that* and continue. So if you run into someone
you don't like, keep it off the general list, unless you are asked for
help. I know people and companies that I don't like, but I don't go for the
flame, until flamed first.:-)
        So people have different opinions, no worries.
        Thanks to all the people who emailed me direct, I can't reply to
all of them, but I appreciate your support.
        Now back to the useful information this forum is to provide!!:-)

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 10:13:38 -0400
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Re[2]: Dormobiles, and the Davis Bros.

>Say, got any 109 frames? :-)

        NO, NO, Not the frame thing again!!!!:-)
>Dave "taking cover" B.

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

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From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 10:34:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Unleaded Fuel...

As has been hinted by quite a few people, the friction regarding unleaded fuel 
is really not founded.  For the past few years, leaded fuel hasn't been 
available in the U.S.  We run several older vehicles with unleaded,  with 
absolutely no problems.  These include a '67 mini, '64 spit, '59 SII 109", '31 
Buick straight eight, Late 40s Ford F2000 tractor, etc. etc.

Yes, the lack of lead will cause premature valve seat wear....but, you're not 
liable to notice it as somthing else will probably break first.  Someone who is 
trying to sell you on hardened valve seats, is doing just that, selling you.  
When it comes time to do work on your head, then the hardened seats may be in 
order....taking apart a perfectly good engine for hardened seats is a waste!  
Even then, if you don't drive too much you could probably get away with the 
cheaper non-hardened style...

Just my humble opinion, of course....

Eric

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From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 11:16:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Insulation sources...

I may have posted about this before but here goes...

I'm looking for sources for closed cell neoprene foam sheets (as used in 
wetsuits) and heavy-duty nylon fabric (like Cordura).  I've got some ideas to 
construct a durable and sound-proofing interior to my rover but I don't want to 
cut up my wetsuits and backpacks to experiment...:)

Any help would be appreciated...

Eric

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 11:19:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Dormobiles and selective parts selling.

On Tue, 15 Oct 1996, Daryl Webb wrote:

> Part of the joy of LR ownership is the ready source of bits for 
> customisation, personally I like the idea of a custom 3-doormobile as a 
> vehicle, but not if it comes at the expense of the survival of a 
> redeemable original. (actually I wouldnt mind a stage 1 dormobile, that 
> would be OK wouldnt it :-)

	Depends on defining redeamable, and popularity to a certain extent.
	They made 811 NADA 109 sw's but I rarely see people cry over their
	demise, or try to bring back the 2.6l 6 cylinder lump. That another
	LR is resurrected, in any form, is IMHO a good thing.  Half these
	variants are just a basic LR with a special number and a bunch of 
	bits added on.

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 96 11:32:17 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: LRNA test grounds, scouting report (long)

I too am going to take a break from the Dormobile issue to tell everyone about
how much fun I had off-roading at LRNA's test grounds in Bowie MD.

First off, this place is incredible! Going down the highway, there is a cut off 
through the drainage ditch on the side of the road that leads to a single track 
dirt road. This passes through an overgrown field surrounded by woods. You have 
your choice of a number of trails that lead into the woods. I went as a solo 
vehicle, so I headed towards a vehicle that i saw in the distance. There was 
smoke coming from around the hood of said vehicle, and I thought they might have
been having trouble. Quite the opposite, they were target shooting with 
black-powder rifles. They showed me the guns and how they worked and we watched 
them shoot for a while, and then went off into the woods. There are a number of 
hills of varying steepness, and lots of mudholes in the low areas. It's been 
relatively dry here, so nothing was that challenging. Nancy, my passenger was a 
little scared at the steepness of some of the hills, and we were both amazed 
that the Land Rover made it through some of the tougher sections without getting
stuck. There was one section that put us on a significant side slope, but the LR
handled it with ease and aplomb, until I became distracted by Nancy's cries of 
abject terror, and stalled. I felt at this point it would be a good idea to nose
down a tad as the lean was quite alarming at this point. I then angled back up 
when I felt we had leveled a bit and we finished the section slowly and 
smoothly. There were quite a few wading sections, the first few of which we 
skipped as they looked fairly deep. After passing  by one I decided to check the
depth so I dove in headfirst. Just kidding, I measured with a stick and found 
the depth to be a foot at the deepest, with a fairly firm bottom. So we tried 
the next one, but my right front wheel was slipping on the clay at the exit and 
I couldn't make it up. Probably could have done it with more gas, but I 
prudently backed out and went around. BTW, most obstacles here have been wimped 
out on enough times, that there are several paths around each one, so its not 
like you have to do anything too dangerous if you don't want too. The way around
usually involves some challenge as well, so its not necessarily a complete wimp 
out. At the bottom of one hill, which BTW was the steepest descent I have ever 
done (still fairly new to this off-road thing) we almost got bogged down but I 
managed to back up and have another go. Still slipping, I backed up once more 
and tried again in 2nd instead of 1st...this time we went straight through, and 
up the next hill. I didn't see any other vehicles but for the target shooters 
and one guy on a 4 wheel ATV, who was very nice and played with us most of the 
day. I think he was hoping we would pull him out if he got stuck, which he 
didn't. At the end of the day we came out, across the path from the black-powder
guys, so we beeped our horn and they waved us through. There were some small 
humps to play on out in the field, quick up-and-downers to test your breakover 
angle. The Rover handled these with ease. There was third one that provided a 
bit more challenge, a mud pit followed by a short 40 or so degree rutted climb. 
We went for it and...thwack! The hole on the left side of the mud pit made it 
way too steep an approach angle. Oh well, I've gotta replace that bumper 
anyway...nothing I can't fix with a stout rope and a large tree...I tried again,
but stalled out near the top and had to back down. I must have forgot about 
brakes because I rolled down very fast and buried my tow hitch in the mud. Well,
this definitely feels like stuck I thought, as I gazed straight up into the sky 
and put the box in reverse. Popped the clutch and backed out without even a 
shudder. I got out and surveyed the damage... none. I looked at the hill again 
and I couldn't figure out why it was so difficult. I gave it one more go and 
went right up and over, like child's play. Hmm.
Nancy, convinced that it was all over, got back in the truck :-) and we set off 
back to the main road...I then noticed that I was already in 2wd high range...

My impression:

This place is just amazing. The fact that LRNA allows unrestricted public use of
their land is virtually unbelievable in this area of the country. There is 
nothing like this anywhere near the DC area. It took about 45 minutes tops to 
get there, and all the national forests are at least 2 hours away, and probably 
don't have the same kind of trails, or not as many. 
You could very easily break your vehicle here if you were so inclined, but you 
can also stick to the mildly challenging sections, and at the worst maybe get 
bogged down in some mud. Atteniton anyone who broke diffs or frames at the 
Downeast (you know who you are :-) I didn't see one diff eating rock on the 
whole course. I din't do the whole thing, but its mostly dirt, and tree 
roots/stumps.

So anyway, I'm really surprised that this veritable off-road playground has 
received no mention on this list. Are all you Rover guys in the DC/MD/VA area 
really just a bunch of concrete cowboys? I bought this truck so that I could 
off-road, AS WELL AS arrive in style wherever I may be shopping/dining 
out/etc...

I found out about this place from non-rover-owners who are *actual* off-road 
enthusiasts. Let's get more LAND ROVERS out on LAND-ROVER North America's LAND 
ROVER playground. 

If anybody is interested, let me know and we can organize another trip out 
there. There are already other people interested, Ron Oday (72 88") and Bill 
Adams, (66 109" SW), and Spencer Norcross (?? 88")

Also, Spencer, (now-soon-to-be relocated to VA), has suggested a BBQ get 
together for all the local Rover people. If you are interested and live in the 
DC/MD/VA area, give me a call or email.

Cheers
Blah, blah, blah, bandwidth, etc... *sorry* for wasting your time with valuable 
information...:-)

Dave Bobeck
Arlington VA 72 SIII SWB
Pastel Green/Limestone/Various Shades of Brown
dbobeck@ushmm.org
202 488 6588 w
703 528 8727 h

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 96 11:23:47 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Frame gooping and rust...

All this talk of filling one's frame with various concoctions can lead to 
problems that may temper the decision to perform this kind of operation 
in the first place.
If ever the need arises for frame repair, be it due to accidental 
whanging while off road or traffic accident, or rust or fatigue failures, 
the oily goo on the inside of the frame can be a real hazard to the 
person welding. It could easily catch fire and such a fire would be quite 
troublesome to extinguish. Food for thought.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel.
Soon to be Triumph Trophy owner ?

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From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@bestinforsg.com>
Subject: dyna-mat
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 96 11:32:00 PDT

I recently read on the list about someone using dyna-mat around the rear   
speaker enclosures on the D90 to reduce the vibrations.  Could you   
elaborate a little further on this?  Thanks.  (my speakers are vibrating   
quite a bit now that it's getting colder out and I think it's the   
cabinets that are at fault.)

Also, do any D90 owners have any problems with a "sticky" shift into 2nd   
from 1st gear?  Is this normal, or is there something wrong?

Thanks in advance,
Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767
dboehme@bestinforsg.com

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 08:33:44 -0700
From: rick.crider@trellis.net
Subject: Re: Insulation sources...

At 11:25 AM 10/15/96 EDT, you wrote:
>I may have posted about this before but here goes...

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
>Any help would be appreciated...
>Eric

Eric......
For the closed cell neopreme stuff......
Go to your local large sporting goods retailer.....one that's heavy into camping gear......they sell 'sleeping mats'....that go under sleeping bags.   It is a closed cell construction, usually have a choice of colors, won't absorb moisture, etc,.......most of the mats I've seen are 20" X 72"....and cost from about $8.00 to $12.00 depending on the thickness you desire.  Most are either 3/8", 1/2" or 5/8" thick.

I've used it for carpet backing......works well with contact cement (the cement won't melt it, nor does it absorb the cement).   Has good insulation qualities as well as sound deadening qualities.

For the cordura stuff...I'm at a loss.  Perhaps an awning maker.....one that makes commercial awnings for business's........

Later.
Rick Crider
Monroe NC
'73 Slll 88"   'Jesse' ....one owner and it mint condition.
'65 Slla 88"   'Virgil' .....a bush beater...and for sale..$2500
'89 Range Rover ....107,000 miles and going strong.
....and (sheepishly) a 95 Hummer wagon, for which I am deeply in debt.....

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From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 11:44:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Dormobiles

On 15 Oct 96 at 9:27, East Coast Rover Co. wrote:

>         A Martin Walters restoration, for the type of parts that I
> sometimes have, means someone with a nearly complete Rover, that needs the
> bits I have to make it more complete. And especially members of the
> Dormobile Owners' Club.

> >        You say that thes parts will eventually go to
> >        people with 3-door conversions and 88's.  To keep people happy,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> finish off his project.
>         Totally unhelpfull aren't I, to help out the list above.

I was trying to stay quiet and hope this stopped, but I have to speak up in 
Mike's defense  (though I don't think most will feel he needs it).  When I 
bought the Dormobile roof it had been on the market for Dormobile owners 
for quite some time and I ended up with it only after it looked like it 
might start to deteriorate since no MW type wanted it.  I quite understand 
the wish to help out those who are trying to restore vehicles which were 
made in very limited quantities, and Mike sold me the thing at a very 
reasonable price so there was no question of profiteering due to rarity.  I 
am sure he just wanted it to go to the best use possible.  I like dealing 
with someone who isn't in it just to make a living.

I for one wish we would keep opinions which may  damage the reputations of 
those we do business with off this list.  Private e-mail is a better place 
to air grievances and 
to reply to those who ask for an opinion,  and we can be no more 
sure of the honesty, integrity, or reasonableness of either party involved unless we 
have personal experience with them.  I have seen comments lately that were 
probably undeserved and to someone new to LRO they give a completely wrong 
impression of the people who have done much to keep our vehicles on the 
road, and of others they may meet and like very much in the future.

Why does e-mail, like too much to drink,  cause us to say things we regret 
later?  I know because I've done it myself, and I'll probably regret this.
 
Ron Franklin

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 09:04:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Blair Gillespie <Gillespie@thegrid.net>
Subject: Re: The dormobile controversey

>Mr Smith I want you and the list to understand this all started by me
>posting about politeness in reply posts it had only a little to do with you.
>it would seem you are like most people and can't take consturtive criticism
>in any form. Even when not directed at you specifically.

        Now we understand, thanks for clearing that up. Constructive criticism? 
Blair Gillespie
San Luis Obispo Ca. USA
1988 Range Rover 
1972 S III 88
1967 FLH HD

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From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 12:26:50 -0400
Subject: Re: LRNA test grounds

In a message dated 96-10-15 11:38:35 EDT, you write:

>thusiasts. Let's get more LAND ROVERS out on LAND-ROVER North America's LAND

>ROVER playground. 

Would be a good Photo op. besides....
>If anybody is interested, let me know and we can organize another trip out 
>there. There are already other people interested, Ron Oday (72 88") and Bill

>Adams, (66 109" SW), and Spencer Norcross (?? 88")
>there. There are already other people interested, Ron Oday (72 88") and Bill
Heck... I might even come... bet a few others from up this way might also
make the trip as well.. 

>Also, Spencer, (now-soon-to-be relocated to VA), has suggested a BBQ get 
>together for all the local Rover people. If you are interested and live in
>the 

Just like Spencer..always looking for food
eat quick when he's nearby
sounds like a good idea Maybe we can get LRNA to supply the food (HAHA)

>DC/MD/VA area, give me a call or email.
>Cheers
>the 

Rgds
Steve Bradke    96 Discovery
                       72 S lll 88 ( for sale )
                       68 S lla 88

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From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 15 Oct 96 12:42:12 EDT
Subject: Anybody got a part # for steering relay seals?

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 96 13:00:39 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: LRNA test grounds

>>>>Would be a good Photo op. besides....

Ok, make sure you get my good side...

>>>>Heck... I might even come... bet a few others from up this way might also
make the trip as well.. 

'Twould be fun, I'll keep the list posted.

 
>>>>Just like Spencer..always looking for food

We shared a cooler at the Mid Atlantic... 

Cheers
Dave "What the bloody'ell happened to all my *%$#* cupcakes!" B.

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 10:02:32 -0700
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: No mail??

At 12:21 AM 10/15/96 +0100, you wrote:
>I checked my mail this evening and found no mail from this group??
>Is there a problem in delivery?
>Do I have to resubscribe every month to keep reciving mail?
>Has nobody got anything to say?
>If someone can read this can they please mail me.

I heard you loud and clear.  Maybe folks are just being quiet?  Or maybe
everyone's out working on their rovers...

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

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From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@bestinforsg.com>
Subject: RE: Re[2]: LRNA test grounds
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 96 13:04:00 PDT

I'm in...  Just let me know the date and time.  :)

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767
dboehme@bestinforsg.com

 ----------
From:  LRO-Owner[SMTP:LRO-Owner@playground.sun.com]
Sent:  Tuesday, October 15, 1996 1:01 PM
Subject:  Re[2]: LRNA test grounds

>>>>Would be a good Photo op. besides....

Ok, make sure you get my good side...

>>>>Heck... I might even come... bet a few others from up this way might   
also
make the trip as well..

'Twould be fun, I'll keep the list posted.

   

>>>>Just like Spencer..always looking for food
We shared a cooler at the Mid Atlantic...

Cheers
Dave "What the bloody'ell happened to all my *%$#* cupcakes!" B.

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From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@bestinforsg.com>
Subject: mounting a Jack-all
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 96 13:28:00 PDT

I have a Jack-all and currently it's stashed behind the front seats   
(between the front seats and the roll bar) across the width of the   
vehicle in my '95 D90.  The problem is that I'd like to mount it   
somewhere, preferably external, but can't think of how to do it.  I know   
that RN has brackets to mount it, but they're really for internal use (or   
so I think) and I'd like to avoid buying a roof rack.  Any ideas?   
 Richard Ruffer (on the list) mounted his across the width of his D90 but   
behind the roll bar on top of the "benches".  Unfortunately, when I fold   
my rear seat forward, it won't go all the way because it comes into   
contact with the jack.  Any ideas?  Has anyone had anything custom made?   
 I knew of someone on the list that had RN make a custom rack, but I   
can't remember the chap's name...

Thanks in advance,
Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767
dboehme@bestinforsg.com

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 12:02:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: mounting a Jack-all

Dear Doug:
I have a '94 D90 and a Hi-Lift jack, so I'm not sure if it will work for
your '95 and Jack-All but ....
The hi-lift slides in, top end first, on the right side of the rear
cargo space, right along side the right rear wheel shelf. (The jack is 
on its side, with the lifting jaw facing inwards).  When the rear
(cargo space) door is closed, it almost touches the base plate of the
jack, and the jack is snug under the rear seat: so no movement of jack. I
put a rag around the top and base of the jack to prevent rattles and
scratches. This keeps the jack clean - but means that rear door has to be
opened to get at the jack.
Best wishes,
David Rosenbaum

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 12:27:40 -0700
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: mounting a Jack

I just slide my hi-lift under the sleeping platform, alongside the boxes of 
camping equipment. Since the bed is already made-up, it stays clean. The 
platform keeps everything under control. Oh, no sleeping platform in your 
90's? Sorry ;)

John (what's a turning radius?) Ousterhout
'64 109 (absolutely no d**mobile parts, but a pretty comfortable camper anyway)

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 15:42:58 -0400
From: "johnsonm (wk)" <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: mounting a Jack-all

David Rosenbaum wrote:
> ...I put a rag around the top and base of the jack to prevent rattles and
> scratches. This keeps the jack clean....

I couldn't agree more.  I hate it when I go to use my tools and they are
scratched.  :)
-- 
Mike Johnson
74 SIII 88 (Chester)
73 SIII 88 (Jezabel)

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 22:14:45 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Waxoyl

Steve Bradke wrote:

>     Looks like we're in for quite a mild day here in the Northeast and so I
>thought I would waxoyl the frame on my S lla.  The kit I received last week
>has 2.5 L of the stuff and it seems like more than I will ever need.  I' be
:interested in hearing from anyone else who has done this.  besides warming
>the product itself before spraying are there any other hints or advice before
>I start ?

Heating it in a container with hot water or cutting it with white spirit ot 
diesel is both recommended. I assume it is the yellow stuff you are talking 
about.

>    Will I be able to do the door posts by spraying into the bolt holes for
>the hinges?

The spraying set should come with an extension hose, clear plastic, that you 
can thread into most small holes after having fixed the nozzle to it. There 
is probably a drainage hole at the bottom of the door post that you could 
use. Don't forget the bulkhead innards!

>will I need to drill any other holes in the frame to gain access and ensure
>complete coverage?

Probably not. Try and clean out the muck first, though, either mechanically 
or with a power washer or with compressed air.

>  if I do the job correctly will there be enough left over to do my Series
>lll  as well?

Probably not. 2,5 litre is not an awful lot, and a L-R has lots of inner 
surfaces once you start looking for them.

Gre Spitz wanted to know:

>sorry for the ignorance....what is this stuff and what is it for??

Something the Brits swear by, a mixture of wax and a rust inhibitor that 
will drive out moisture from the inside of your chassis, stop and convert 
any rust there, and cover everything with a long-lasting and flexible, 
self-repairing waxy layer. Probably pays your taxes, too, and answers your 
mail, although the manufacturers don't claim that. Yellow for inside, black 
for outside, yellow seems a lot more popular.

Hope this helps
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 22:15:18 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Dormobile restaurations

Re the discussion on Dormobile restaurations:
Mike Smith prefers to sell rare parts to people who try to do proper 
restaurations, stupid as that may seem to other people who do not try. I 
applaud the decision. Dunsfold, for example, does the same with their 
precious elephant hide - you have to prove that you have the right vehicle, 
and plan to restore it in the right way. Having chased after rare parts for 
my project I know how frustrating it is to find out that something you need 
(or think you need) was sold to somebody who might just as well have used 
another, similar aprt, because they are not in the least interested in 
originality. The quest for originality, in a way, is like off-roading - 
there is no real need for it, but it is the challenge one has taken up. 

Sherardized bolts and nuts, btw, are pretty good at slowing corrosion - most 
38 year old threads on my SI will still move, after a little gentle 
persuasion, which can not be said of some of the much newer nuts and bolts 
added by PO`s. While they may not be as good as stainless, they are better 
than most others, and do not corrode the aluminium as badly as stainless. 
Sherardizing is a kind of galvanizing, btw. And I will definitely try to get 
sherardized bolts and nuts for the few that have been lost or had to be 
damaged, even if I could get ordinary parts at probably one tenth of the cost.
Regards
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 22:15:54 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Little girls and big cars

Uncle Roger wrote:

>My niece (2 yrs old) is crazy about my LR.  She likes to sit in the drivers
>seat (alone, with the doors closed) and turn the wheel and flip switches.
>As soon as I get one back on the road, I'm gonna teach her how to drive it.

So you are planning to take about 14 years to get one on the road again? 
About average, I would guess...
Regards
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 13:29:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: mounting a Jack-all

On Tue, 15 Oct 1996, johnsonm (wk) wrote:
 > >David Rosenbaum wrote:
 > > ...I put a rag around the top and base of the jack to prevent rattles
 > >and scratches. This keeps the jack clean....
 >
 > I couldn't agree more.  I hate it when I go to use my tools and they
 > are scratched.  :)

Uh, Mike, I meant, er, to say 'to prevent rattles and CRASHES, or
SNATCHES, I mean THRASHES. No, you caught me: I don't want scratches in
the body of the D90. In a related thread: is paste wax or liquid preferred
for the hi-lift?   =:-0 

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From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@bestinforsg.com>
Subject: RE: mounting a Jack-all
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 96 16:52:00 PDT

Interesting question as my Jack-all is rusting as badly as my spare wheel   
rack...

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767

 ----------
From:  LRO-Owner[SMTP:LRO-Owner@playground.sun.com]
Sent:  Tuesday, October 15, 1996 1:30 PM
Subject:  Re: mounting a Jack-all

On Tue, 15 Oct 1996, johnsonm (wk) wrote:
 > >David Rosenbaum wrote:
 > > ...I put a rag around the top and base of the jack to prevent   
rattles
 > >and scratches. This keeps the jack clean....
 >
 > I couldn't agree more.  I hate it when I go to use my tools and they
 > are scratched.  :)

Uh, Mike, I meant, er, to say 'to prevent rattles and CRASHES, or
SNATCHES, I mean THRASHES. No, you caught me: I don't want scratches in
the body of the D90. In a related thread: is paste wax or liquid   
preferred
for the hi-lift?   =:-0

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 17:51:20 -0400
From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: ATTN: Neil Sheridan/Rollbar details.

Apologies to the list for broadcasting this one...

Neil:

I tried replying to your EMAIL message but my reply was kicked back as
undeliverable.  Please drop me a note with your correct address.

Meanwhile, Neil asks about my rollbar.  As the answer is not too lengthy,
and could be considered "general interest" I'm just going to post it.

>I was reading the LRO digest for early '95 and saw your posts about the
>internal roll-bar.  I haven't been able to find a FTP site with Rover
>files.  Could you either point me in the right direction .... or ....
>e-mail it to me?

There are no plans per say, but there's a good photo accessible from
<http://www.off-road.com/RoverWeb/Jeff-Rover/JeffsRover.html>  Click on the
little photo and you'll see a larger version.  If you can't get to it
through the WWW, let me know and I'll EMAIL you a copy.

>Is it rigged so that you can unbolt the hardtop and go topless?

Yes.  Actually it's under a soft top at the moment, but it fit's underneath
a hard top.

>To what is it welded?

It's welded into collars which are welded to the top of the frame.

>I've been reading through the old archives trying to get up to speed
>rather than hitting the LRO with an endless series (is that a pun?) of
>questions a la Taylor.

No problem with mailing me direct but don't be afraid to post good
questions to the list.  There's lots more expertise there than you will
find in my little brain.  And you have to go a long way before we'll brand
you a
Tyler!

Sorry to be so brief, I'm sort of in the middle of a family crisis right
now, so energies are being diverted at a frightening rate.

Best Regards, RoverOn!

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 17:57:47 -0400
From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: Camel Trophy stuff

>Bad news from my friend at RJR in Winston Salem.  The 50 Camel Trophy hats
>and boxes of other stuff (including pens) *WAS DESTROYED BY CUSTONS.*

Okay, I *sort* of understand destroying the caps.  But the other stuff???
Gee, I'm proud to be a U.S. citizen...

Signed: Penless in Rowayton.

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 16:02:05 -0700
From: bruce.curtis@Eng.Sun.COM (Bruce Curtis)
Subject: Mail outage this last weekend ...

Well yah see, it all started with a powerfail on the Stanford U campus
last Friday (96.10.11), then a major service providor (BBN) ran out of
battery backup for a major POP in the Silicon Valley, which nocked out
many a company. This included the one that the Major currently resides
at (Sun), the POP was back up Fri night, but for some reason a router
between a T1 and the system that the Major is on got confused and hung
sometime Sun night ... All is well now.

Later, Bruce.
'95 Disco

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 19:41:34 -0500 (EST)
From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com>
Subject: Starting a Series LR dealership

Last week or so I told a little about Chase & Avery, here in Newport NH, and
their time as a Land Rover dealer from 1960 until 1974.  I recently learned
how they became LR dealers.

In the mid to later 1950s, John Avery was serving with the US military in a
part of the world then called (and still by some) Palestine.  Here he saw
several Series Is in use.

Then in 1959 while hunting in Canada, he was looking through a Canadian
magazine and came across an ad for Land Rovers from a Canadian dealer.  He
called this dealer and asked how to contact LR to becme a dealer themself.
(They were Plymouth, Dodge and Chrysler dealers at the time).

Back in New Hampshire, they contacted Rover, then located in New Jersey and
a representative drove up to New Hampshire to see them.  The result of the
meeting was that they bought the LR the rep drove up, put him on a plane
back to New Jersey and became a LR dealer.  They also sold Rover cars but
the LRs filled a niche for them and was a steady seller.

I learned over the weekend that there were several other LR dealers in New
Hampshire during that period, but I do not have any details about them.

Jeff Kessler
1988 Range Rover
Newport NH USA   603-863-7883   lmkessler@srnet.com

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From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 15 Oct 96 17:07:49 MST
Subject: Parts posting...

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
I'm all in favor of posting used parts, for what it's worth. Lord (Lord
Lucas, that is) knows how hard it is to locate good used parts in the
US, so it's a welcome addition as far as I'm concerned.

Maybe you can generate a list of LR owners that don't mind seeing these,
like myself!

Thanks,

Dave (got any good, used axles? I seem to be in need of a pair of 10
splines) Brown

What lies behind us and what lies    #=======#         _____l___
before us are tiny matters compared  |__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___
to what lies within us.              | _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ _ _|}
Ralph Waldo Emerson                  "(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 17:59:55 -0700
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: mounting a Jack-all

David Rosenbaum wrote:
> On Tue, 15 Oct 1996, johnsonm (wk) wrote:
>  > >David Rosenbaum wrote:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> the body of the D90. In a related thread: is paste wax or liquid preferred
> for the hi-lift?   =:-0I don't know about the long wheel base machines, but to mount my 
jack-all, I use the bolt that was put on the wallto mount a tyre inside 
the cab.  I just place the jack across the divider wall and use one of 
the holes in the jack to pass the bolt through.  Since it is a "wing" nut 
you can tighten it till the jack is secure.  On my vehicle the jack justs 
fits across and I have set the jack part to fit snugly against the wall. 
 Dave VE4PN

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 17:55:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@ricochet.net>
Subject: Re: McCarthyism, Witch Hunts, etc..

At 09:43 PM 10/14/96 -0500, you wrote:
>different marque.  These vehicles aren't Chevy pickups or VW bugs!  
>(although there ARE certain rare Hebmuller VW bugs for which you'd have
>to give your first born to acquire parts for!)  I know from firsthand

And in my business, it's okay to turn a dead Mac Plus or a VT-100 terminal
into a fishtank, but not a Mac 128K or an HP2645a with dual tapes and a CP/M
card.  

But all this dormobile parts business is a waste of time.  Bottom line,
Whoever owns the parts decides who he's gonna sell 'em to, plain and simple.
"we reserve the right to refuse service..."  So quit trying to defend your
decisions and quit whining about how bad life is without dormobile seats.
(You want something to whine about, ask me how my year has been.)

So let's get on to something *important*:

>Kurt D, Musselman
>Brewmaster  
>to give your first born to acquire parts for!)  I know from firsthand
 ^^^^^^^^^^
     ^---------  Where at, and when do we get a tour?

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

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Subject: Re: Hardened Valve Seats 
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 18:22:19 -0700
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@netgate.net>

In message <bulk.18268.19961015065628@Land-Rover.Team.Net>you write:

Jim Allen wrote:

>        In theory, all non-hardened valve seat engines will sufferfrom
> unleaded fuel. In practice, it isn't as big an issue as it's often
> portrayed.

  [snip]

>        The old car guys determined that low power engines (the 2,25 &
> 2.6L certainly qualify) that are run in low stress environments suffer
> only about a 20% loss ofvalve life. Low stress means no sustained high
> speeds (55mph or more) and no hard pulling. Older hi-performance cars
> were at more risk.

	To add another data point.  I've taken my SIII 88 across the US
7 or 8 times.  I have countless 100-500 mile highway trips at 60 to
65 mph (overdrive& 235/75 R15 tyres) in temperatures ranging up to 120 F.  When 
I first got the Rover in 1991 the valves and seats were fine.   In the summer 
of 1994 after (I think) 30,000 to 40,000 miles of use with unleaded, my valves 
were badly worn.  Compression was 80 or so in 2 cylinders and maybe 120 in 
the other two.   So I pulled the head and replaced the seats and valves.
2+ years and 35,000+ miles later running on unleaded and living in
the desert for a year and a half, compression is still 160 to 180 and it
is running strong.

	This is the 8:1 compression head.  

	So I'd say that if you do long highway trips and are in warmer
climates, running on unleaded will probably greatly accelerate the wear
in non-hardened valves.  But remember, not everone will do repeated 
800 mile days in a Series Rover like I have, so YMMV.

>        For what it's worth, I would run your vehicle until it needs a
> valve job, then install hard seats. I would not regard it as some sort
> of an emergency.Beyond valve seat recession, there isno other worries in
> using unleaded petrol as long as the octane rating is adequate 

	I completely agree with Jim here.  Don't panic.  Use your Rover.
When it needs a valve job, replace them with hardened valves and seats.

Ben
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Benjamin Smith------------bens@netgate.net-------------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 18:19:33 -0700
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Little girls and big cars

At 10:15 PM 10/15/96 +0100, you wrote:
>>My niece (2 yrs old) is crazy about my LR.  She likes to sit in the drivers
>>seat (alone, with the doors closed) and turn the wheel and flip switches.
>>As soon as I get one back on the road, I'm gonna teach her how to drive it.

>So you are planning to take about 14 years to get one on the road again? 
>About average, I would guess...

>Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

No way...  Us Murricans do things fast -- On this side of the pond we only
took 200 yrs to get to 1996 -- and start early.  She'll be driving up and
down the alley by the end of the year.  (Hey, can't be any worse than most
of the gits on the road!)

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

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From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 21:34:30 -0500
Subject: used frame FS

Just when you thought you had seen the last post on frames here's another:

'91 RR 100" frame.  Bare of everything  removable due to coiler project, but 
in like new condition, with absolutely no rust and does  not even need 
painting unless you are fussy.  Be the first in your state to do a RR 
frameover.   $1350, located in midcoast Maine. 207-666-5614.

Now if you are all good you won't see this 17 more times.

Ron Franklin

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

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From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 21:38:19 -0400
Subject: Old LR Dealers

Jeff writes:

>I learned over the weekend that there were several other LR dealers in New
>Hampshire during that period, but I do not have any details about them.

We purchased our '60 SII from a gentleman who claimed to be the second owner,
and the son of the dealer who sold it originally. I don't have his name
handy, but believe they were north of Manchester, and probably in business
selling/servicing British vehicles through the mid '70s at least, maybe into
the '80s.

Our other '60 SII was sold to the original owners by a Buick dealer who also
sold LRs north of Philadelphia, and who went out of business several months
later.

In the northern Detroit suburbs (Troy) I undestand Fauvey (sp?) Motors sold
LRs in the early '70s as part of the BL lineup.

Does anyone have a '74 or earlier list of LR dealers in North America? If not
how about compiling a list of pre '74 LR dealers? Name, address, period when
selling LRs, current status and/or successor business if any would be nice to
have. Just don't expect any mother lodes of info or parts at this late date.

David Cockey
Rochester, MI

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 21:31:49 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: Re: 1st - 2nd gear D90

On Tue, 15 Oct 96, "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@bestinforsg.com> wrote:

>Also, do any D90 owners have any problems with a "sticky" shift into 2nd   
>from 1st gear?  Is this normal, or is there something wrong?

That will be the same R380 gearbox that is on the 300 Tdi? All changes seem to 
be great when done in 2 moves, into self-centering between 3rd & 4th position 
and then out. With a turbo the 1st-2nd change is a problem on hill starts. On an 
incline that I can otherwise accelerate up in 4th, with revs only around 2200, I 
may have difficulty getting out of first from a standing start. The problem is 
that I have to take so much time between 1st and 2nd that when I finally make 
the change it is like hitting a wall, because the revs have dropped below the 
1800 threshold. Trying to do reasonably direct 1st - 2nd will always result is a 
loud grind. 
I would also be interested to know what the general experience is.
Cheers 
Allan

Allan Smith
Caribbean Natural Resources Institute
Vieux Fort
St. Lucia, West Indies.
Tel +(758) 454 6060
Fax +(758) 454 5188

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From: MHKINGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 22:05:15 -0400
Subject: subscribe

subscribe

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From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 22:06:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Re: Dormobile restaurations (rambles)

Is there something about the fall that gets folks cranked up. Last fall it
was splitting the list, and the results of that debate are themselves
debatable, BUT NOT HERE PLEASE! Lets all work to remain civil.

Peter writes:
: Dunsfold, for example, does the same with their 
:precious elephant hide - you have to prove that you have the right vehicle, 
:and plan to restore it in the right way. Having chased after rare parts for 
:my project I know how frustrating it is to find out that something you need 
:(or think you need) was sold to somebody who might just as well have used 
:another, similar aprt, because they are not in the least interested in 
:originality.

I ran into this ad Dunsfold a couple of years ago with a request for elepahnt
hide, and decided to wait until I actually had the restoration well underway
rather than sell them on my good intentions. In any case genuine elepphant
hide belongs in vehicles which originally had elephant hide. (So will we now
have the great elephant hide debate?) I find conversions interesting when
well done, abhor them when botched (common) but personally prefer original
vehicles. I really enjoy looking at totally unrestored LRs and see how they
evolved. Actually prefere original unrestored to restored in many ways.

Dixon writes:
	Depends on defining redeamable, and popularity to a certain extent.
	They made 811 NADA 109 sw's but I rarely see people cry over their
	demise, or try to bring back the 2.6l 6 cylinder lump. That another
	LR is resurrected, in any form, is IMHO a good thing

I like to see a NADA 109 which is original. At Owl's Head in '94 or '95 a
gentleman had a restored to original (or better than original) NADA 109. And
it was neat. To me a lot more interesting than another NADA 109 converted to
2.25 or Chevy. Maybe in a couple of years NADA 109s will be just legends with
just a few years  

Sometime we should have a discussion about restored vs. original LRs, fire
engines and pink panthers, and the widely varying philosiphies of LR
ownership.

Now if you have read this far does anyone have a set of SIII NADA tail lights
and turn signals? The kind that are virtually unobtainable. I'm sure they
would look far better on a '60 SII than a NADA SIII. (THE PRECEEDING WAS
INTENDED AS HUMOR).

David Cockey
Rochester, MI

 

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From: MHKINGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 22:05:06 -0400
Subject: Birmabright

I was told by someone that aluminum that has been anodized makes it aircraft
grade which is what Birmabright is. Does anyone out there know if this is
correct.
Mike

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 19:13:29 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Dormobiles, and the Davis Bros.

At 10:13 AM 10/15/96 -0400, East Coast Rover Co. wrote:

>>Say, got any 109 frames? :-)
>        NO, NO, Not the frame thing again!!!!:-)
>>Dave "taking cover" B.
;
>From: Mike Smith
;
So Mike do you feel like you've been framed?

Sorry I couldn't resist it

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 22:48:59 -0400
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@InterLinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: Old LR Dealers

At 21:38 96-10-15 -0400, you wrote:

-Does anyone have a '74 or earlier list of LR dealers in North America? If not
-how about compiling a list of pre '74 LR dealers? Name, address, period when
-selling LRs, current status and/or successor business if any would be nice to
-have. Just don't expect any mother lodes of info or parts at this late date.

Well, yes, I happen to have a listing of all Land Rover dealers in North
America (and Mexico, I believe) in a warranty manual dating from 1974 that
came with an 88 that I bought some time ago. I guess that I could get these
pages photocopied and faxed and put on OVLR's website. Who knows, you might
trip on one of those Land Rover yellow and green signs (like the one I have
here, he he he...).

I found out that my LR dealer here turned up into a Toyota dealer when
British Leyland moved out of the country, a while ago.

Comments, suggestions?

Salutations, 
Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 20:07:28 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Dormobiles

There have been several mentions made of two door Dormobiles as if they
never existed, when in reality they are the rarest of the rare.

John Hess has been in correspondance with Barbra Toy.  She was given a Land
Rover 109 two door by Rover Ltd. for her travels.  Before it was given to
her, Rover ran the car to Martin Walters and had it modified complete with
pop up top.  This may have the very first Dormobile conversion made on a
Land Rover.

I have a J-PEG image of an old Martin Walters Land Rover conversion
brochure circa 1967.  It mentions a two birth Dormobile (625 series) as
well as the relativly popular 4 birth Dormobiles (626 series).  I currently
believe the 625 series to be two door 109s.

In the Dormobile club photobook, that the UK Land Rover Dormobile club
members bring to Dormobile club events, is a picture of a two door 109 with
Dormobile top and German plates.

In Lloyd's web pages, there are two pictures of a 2 door Dormobile, I
believe with Irish plates.

During the Portland All British Field meet, I was chatting with someone
from British Columbia (Sorry I forgot your name).  He was mentioning the
very first Land Rover he had ever seen as a kid.  It was a two Door
Dormobile.  He said it captured his imagination and lead to him eventualy
purchasing a Land Rover.

To confuse things even more, the UK Land Rover Dormobile people told me
that an unknown number of complete Land Rover Dormobile kits, complete with
serial numbers were shipped by Martin Walters to the US for Land Rover
dealer conversions.

Even though there seem to be three or four current home made projects in
the works on this list, please do not be too eager to write off ALL two
door Dormobile conversions as being home made.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 20:49:14 -0700
From: jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us (john hess)
Subject: dormobile seats!

Hi everyone,

By now, everyone is sick of this dormobile seat thing but I have to but in
and say "Does anyone need the smaller of the two dormobile front seats"?

I have one.  It can with its partner, but that went into a dormobile on the
east coast and I have had this official dormobile seat leaning against the
wall in my dining room for about a year.  I offered it to mike smith and I
announced its availability to the dormobile club but no takers.

So, Does anyone need this seat?  What to you have to trade?

jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us
from home via modem
Land-
  -Rover and Mazda owner!  sniff, sniff, bye lovely Tiger.
dormobile page:
http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 20:54:40 -0700
From: jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us (john hess)
Subject: UK address (or phone or fax) needed  

Hello my LRO friends across the pond.

Could you be so kind as to email me the address and/or the phone number or
FAX number for a firm by the name of Jackson and company located in
Doncaster.  I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,

jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us
from home via modem
Land-
  -Rover and Mazda owner!  sniff, sniff, bye lovely Tiger.
dormobile page:
http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 23:58:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Re: Dormobile restaurations (rambles)

On Tue, 15 Oct 1996 Wdcockey@aol.com wrote:

> 2.25 or Chevy. Maybe in a couple of years NADA 109s will be just legends with
> just a few years  
:
	Problem with "original" NADA's is the Westlake head.  Nobody is
	going to use one of those on anything else.

> Now if you have read this far does anyone have a set of SIII NADA tail lights
> and turn signals? The kind that are virtually unobtainable. I'm sure they
> would look far better on a '60 SII than a NADA SIII. 
:
	Red ones should probably be Lucas 692, same as some Austin Healeys.  
	Amber ones are a whole different problem.  However, if you did put
	them on the SII, most people wouldn't be able to figure it from
	a '68 with headlamps on the breakfast.  Change a few moe things,
	and you would in effect have that later vehicle.  Of course,
	on the philosophical vein, we can add converting to -ve earth
	to the mix... :-)  Think of all those switches that go from
	"pull on" to "pull off" and have to be changed.  I see that Peter
	has already run into this problem...

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 22:14:13 -0700
From: faurecm@halcyon.com (C. Marin Faure)
Subject: Re: 3.9 and 4.0 engines

> Marin

> Have to disagree with some of your comments on Rover V8s, moost
> specifically the 4.2L. It was no more prone to problems than any of the
> others and, in fact, the problems you mentioned are all common enough to
> 3.5s and 3.9s.

As far as my comments on the 4.2 being a "bad" engine, I am simply
repeating what I have been told by assembly mechanics at the factory in
Solihull who put the engines together, as well as what I have read in
articles in Land Rover-related magazines like Land Rover Owner
International.  Everyone I have talked to about this engine has said that
stroking it out to 4.2 resulted in even more block flex at high power
settings plus other problems, particularly oil leaks, as opposed to the
3.5/3.9 engine.  In correspondence with aquaintences in the UK who deal
with Land Rover vehicles on a regular basis, they have all agreed.

A very good friend of mine runs a large vehicle hire company outside
Manchester and has large lorries as well as Defenders, Discoveries, and
Ranger Rovers in his fleet.  He keeps his Range Rovers about a year before
trading them in.  He told me the 4.2 was the most trouble-prone engine he's
ever had to deal with, and is thrilled to death it's gone.  And this is
from someone who had each vehicle for only a year.  Finally, the mechanics
at the dealership in this area have commented on the abnormally high number
of problems they see on the 4.2 LWBs, not only with the engine but on the
first-generation air suspension.

That said, I cannot say that I have any direct experience with the 4.2
engine myself to back up my statement.  But the 4.0/4.6 apparently has had
several strengthening modifications to the block designed to remove the
flex from the block at high power settings- I believe larger or stronger
supporting webs for the crank bearings was one of them- plus heavier duty
crank components.  From everything I have heard and read, the "new" engine
is excellent.  As for the 3.9 in my own Range Rover, its been five years
and 74K miles without a hiccup.

Marin Faure
  1973 LR Series III 88
  1991 RR Vogue SE

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 1996 22:21:33 -0700
From: Jeremy J Bartlett <Bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Birmabright

MHKINGER@aol.com wrote:
> I was told by someone that aluminum that has been anodized makes it aircraft
> grade which is what Birmabright is. Does anyone out there know if this is
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> correct.
> Mike

I can only offer relatively limited knowledge of the subject, which
of course is worth what you paid for it :)

Birmabright, as I understand it, is an alloy of aluminum ( oops.. aluminium)
and magnesium (a minor component?).  Judging from how I've seen bare 
Birmabright weather I'd guess its not anodized.  I've no clue about what (if?) 
aircraft grade would be.  I suspect that it's just marketing - a lot like "surgical 
steel" .  Different alloys, etc. but no specific use for a particular type.

cheers,

Jeremy

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Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 02:09:19 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Old LR Dealers

David Cockey asks..

>Does anyone have a '74 or earlier list of LR dealers in North America? 

I have the "Rover Distributers and Dealers - Thirteenth Edition" dated Nov
1964 (part # 4315 no less!) It lists the dealers world-wide. I also have the
"Rover Enfranchised Dealers" listing from leyland Motor Corporation of North
America - dated September 1968. This one lists dealers in the US and Canada
only.

Lots of info, but the later pamphlet looks like it got wet at one time and
is a bit damaged and unreadable in places.

Cheers
Mike

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Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 02:09:17 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Sad Sighting

Saw a Discovery with Florida plates and a canoe on top being transported to
the local dealer on a rollback. So sad...

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From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: mounting a Jack-all
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 08:34:05 +-100

Boehme, Doug[SMTP:dboehme@bestinforsg.com] wrote:

I have a Jack-all and currently it's stashed behind the front seats   
(between the front seats and the roll bar) across the width of the   
vehicle in my '95 D90.  The problem is that I'd like to mount it   
somewhere, preferably external, but can't think of how to do it.  

To get inspirations, have a look at my page:

http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/3542/highlift.html

I know that I announced it 2 weeks ago, but an error from me made the pictures 
unavailble. It should work now. 
I know it is a highlift and not a Jack-all, but I also beleive these are very similar.

Happy Rovering

Bent Boehlers
Denmark

1955, 86", 2 l.
1983, 110", V8.

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From: RALPH@SMUGGITS.MHS.CompuServe.COM
Date: 16 Oct 96 02:51:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Insulation sources...

I've mentioned this before, but the closed cell foam is called expanded 
polyethelene and is available from rubber suppliers, LD45 is a good 
density, it is available in whatever colours and thicknesses you want, is 
pretty (although not very) cheap and can be found in fire resistant forms 
if that is important.

Regards,

Ralph.

101 FC.

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Help still required with Brake test switch and servos
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 96 8:50:09 BST

> In reworking my wiring and getting rid of all of the open connections I met
> three problems.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> Any help on wiring this up would be appreciated, together with some idea of
> what it should do, and how the switch (vacuum??) on the servo should
> measure up.

I have one of these, but doesn't work. Haven't investigated properly, probably
the wires or the sensor switches are bust.
Anyway, the circuit should be:

live  -> (Brake TEST Light)  -> Sensors (vacuum,etc)  -> (Brake TEST Switch)
-> Ground

You should be able to find the TEST LIGHT and TEST SWITCH pins with  a
multimeter (I did). FWIR, the outside 2 pins are one, the inside two are the
other.
The 4th "goes nowhere" should be the Ground?
The idea of the circuit is that the wires going to the sensors are actually
commoned. The sensor switches then short this to ground. Ie. if the vacuum
fails, it lights the TEST light. similarly, there's a test
switch which does the same...

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

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From: "Huub Pennings" <pennings@KFIH.AZR.NL>
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 11:37:49 +0100
Subject:       importing land-rover from UK to Holland

I am considering importing a Landrover from the UK to Holland.
Is there anyone out there with experiance and/or advice ????
Since I have to decide on a specific opportunity this week, a quick 
response would be appreciated.

Huub Penings,

e-mail adres, pennings@kfih.azr.nl

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Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 20:04:20 +1100
From: Tom Cooper <tomcoop@ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Re: Latest ramblings of a hopeless Rover fanatic.

Mike Johnson wrote:
> > <SNIP>
> >A few weeks ago I managed to break the short half shaft on my 109, >but

After breaking half shafts ( twice ) in very incovenient places I
swapped the rover rear axle assembly for a Salisbury - no problems
since.

I'm no engineer but wouldn't fitting stronger half-shafts increase the
strain somewhere else, breaking something even harder to fix?

Tom Cooper SIIA 109 'Safari'
Brisbane Australia

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