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1 ASFCO@aol.com 20Time to WAXOYL the frame
2 Gregspitz@aol.com 7Re: Time to WAXOYL the frame
3 Adrian Redmond [channel649Re: Door Insulation
4 Allan Smith [smitha@cand28Re: Time to WAXOYL the frame
5 Adrian Redmond [channel639Re: A Diesel Answer
6 EvanD103@aol.com 24Re: Zenith Carb woes
7 ASFCO@aol.com 22Re: Time to WAXOYL the frame
8 ecrover@midcoast.com (Ea48Dormobiles, and the Davis Bros.
9 David Rosenbaum [rosenba13Re: Dormobiles, and the Davis Bros.


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From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 08:37:23 -0400
Subject: Time to WAXOYL the frame

     Looks like we're in for quite a mild day here in the Northeast and so I
thought I would waxoyl the frame on my S lla.  The kit I received last week
has 2.5 L of the stuff and it seems like more than I will ever need.  I' be
interested in hearing from anyone else who has done this.  besides warming
the product itself before spraying are there any other hints or advice before
I start ?
    Will I be able to do the door posts by spraying into the bolt holes for
the hinges?
will I need to drill any other holes in the frame to gain access and ensure
complete coverage?
  if I do the job correctly will there be enough left over to do my Series
lll  as well?
Thanks
Steve Bradke

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From: Gregspitz@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 09:24:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Time to WAXOYL the frame

sorry for the ignorance....what is this stuff and what is it for??

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Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 15:51:59 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Door Insulation

M Scott Fugate wrote:
> Greg Spitz wrote: "has anybody insulated a D90 door with that expanding
> insulation foam stuff and do you have to take the door panels off and
> protect wiring in door with plastic before shooting the stuff in a hole??"

Haven't tried  foam in a LR, but several years ago I had some bad
experiences with foam insulation which may be a good warning to others!

I had access to some polyol/isocyanate foam, the sort you mix as two
componets and pump into cavities, so I used it on a mercedes van. I also
insulated some cavities with glass-fibre wool.

The roof and some panels I insulated with polystyrene sheeting.

some years later, I hade terrible rust problems where I had used 2
componet foam or fibreglas, as these really suck the moisture up,
whereas polystyrene insulation gives no problem.

I gues you could use polyol/isocyanate if you only use it in cavities
which you can fill with a plastic bag first (some electronic
manufacturers use this techniques for shipping boxes) the foam is then
sealed in in plastic.

Polyol/isocyanate (as its name implies) gives off really obnoxious
fumes, so beware, or get a professional insulation contractor to do the
work! Breathing apparatus is essential for larger areas.

Since then I( have stuck to polystryene sheeting, which can be bought in
several thicknesses, is cheap, clean, and easy to use (don't use
evostick or similar glues, they dissolve polystyrene - so does petrol!)

Good luck!
-- 
adrian redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
tel: +45 86 57 22 66  e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk

1:	Series III 1976 109" D Pick-up
2:	Series III 1979  88" D Hard top (Icelander)
---------------------------------------------------
"Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!"
---------------------------------------------------

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Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 09:47:52 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: Re: Time to WAXOYL the frame

Steve - 2.5l doesn't go very far when doing a frame. When spraying into a hole 
you'll want to catch the stuff running out of other holes. You will probably 
want to thin it as well as warm it. Warming alone gets the stuff through the 
sprayer, but it promptly cools and doesn't creep. The Waxoyl sprayer isn't the 
best for getting into the frame. I had much better success by cutting the 
sprayer tip off, fitting a couple of feet of tubing with the nozzle from a 
garden sprayer at the other end. The garden sprayer adjusts to give a wide spray 
or a jet. The jet mode was perfect for shooting the stuff up the door posts from 
the drain hole to the top of the bulkhead. 
Have fun.

On Sun, 13 Oct 1996, ASFCO@aol.com wrote:
>     Looks like we're in for quite a mild day here in the Northeast and so I
>thought I would waxoyl the frame on my S lla.  The kit I received last week
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)]
>Thanks
>Steve Bradke
Allan Smith
Caribbean Natural Resources Institute
Vieux Fort
St. Lucia, West Indies.
Tel +(758) 454 6060
Fax +(758) 454 5188

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Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 15:59:44 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: A Diesel Answer

Paul Hanson wrote:
> Are the Land Rover 2.5 Desiel engines in the ser.111 88 Land Rovers
> suppose to be THAT noisy?  I recently picked up a restored LR with this
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>         Thanks!
>         Paul Hanson [ "Rover-un-works" and Renewed Trad. Victim].

Yes, I have been asking the same question for years, and the answer
appears to be YES!

Regular servicing helps, a good bodywork overhaul to tighten all losse
bolts and replace all worn rubber mounts is a help too. Driving slowly
(under 50 mph / 80 Kph) seems to offer the greatest reduction in noise!

There is no complicated answer - the LR 2,25 diesel is noisewise no
Rolls-Royce motor.

But it is one of the most reliable, solid power-packs ever put on four
wheels - that what you pay for - the noise, emissions, leaks, squeaks
and fuel hunger is thrown in free of charge!

Good luck - welcome to the club!
-- 
adrian redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
tel: +45 86 57 22 66  e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk

1:	Series III 1976 109" D Pick-up
2:	Series III 1979  88" D Hard top (Icelander)
---------------------------------------------------
"Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!"
---------------------------------------------------

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From: EvanD103@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 10:25:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Zenith Carb woes

John Cassidy's Zenith seems to be rejecting it's transplanted parts....
I had similar problems with the one on my '73 Ser III.  I rebuilt it, then
took it back apart three times in 2000 miles because the mixture would
inexplicably be too rich.  Leaning it out would correct the idle till the
next day - when it was too lean.  The carb top kept warping which was one
problem.  Resurfacing it with sandpaper on a pane of thick glass helped - for
a while, then the problem resurfaced.  I posted the problem on this list and
someone suggested what Granny Poole did - plug the redundant port.  I had to
contact BritPac a couple of times, but they were finally kind enough to fax a
manual page showing the offending port.  It's a hole visible when the carb
top is removed, it goes through a downward "bulge" on the side of the lower
body.  You wouldn't think it relavant as the hole is covered by the top cover
gasket, but plugging it with a small piece of rubber from an old o-ring has
fixed my carb.
Contact me if you need more info.
  erik
Erik van Dyck
Stone Mountain, Georgia

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From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 12:59:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Time to WAXOYL the frame

In a message dated 96-10-13 10:00:02 EDT, you write:

>. You will probably 
>want to thin it as well as warm it. Warming alone gets the stuff through the

>sprayer, but it promptly cools and doesn't creep. The Waxoyl sprayer isn't
>the 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>the drain hole to the top of the bulkhead. 
>Have fun.

Allan;  Thanks for the info...what should  thin it with..mineral spirits,
laquer thinner, or something else?
 I will use the garden sprayer tip makes sense to me 
Thanks again
Steve

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Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 15:32:23 -0400
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Dormobiles, and the Davis Bros.

Dear all,
        Out of the 80 or so emails I get a day, a few ask for parts. One
such one came in, and as I am very busy, I made a quick reply. Email said,
I need Dormobile front seats, and just purchsed the guts of a Dormobile
from Quintin Aspin. I replied, Sounds great, sorry I can't help, I do have
some parts, but I try and sell them to Martin Walters Dormobile owners
first. End of story.
        Then these 2 guys, both named Davis, start giving me shit. Quickly
looked at the signatures, both Davis... same guy, my mistake *actually 2
guys*. One brother emails me about what a wanker I am that I wont sell him
the parts, then the other makes a general post, about how unhelpful I am,
and what a snob I am not to sell his brother the parts. I get another one
today, from I guess the other brother telling me if he knew Dormobile
owners were such wankers like me he'd never have bought the parts!
        Anyway... Davis brothers...flame away, I know I try to help as many
as time and parts allow, and I did send you a nice long winded responce as
to why I'm not selling just yet, then I read the last lines were you flame
me. Teri Ann... tried to help you too, and still keep a list of your parts
needed by the phone in case they pop up * I don't have any of those parts
to sell or I would* So basically you may imaging that I'm sitting on 200
Dormobiles and all their parts, well I have 1, and 1 for sale, and a few
odds and ends from the other 6 or 7 I've had. And as for not selling and
being a wanker, try talking to Ron Franklin 3 door conversion owner, who I
recently sold a roof to, John Hess, Rob Macormick, Chris Weinbeck, etc.,
but I guess as your brother says, we Dormobile owners are such snobs, you
must be sorry you got involved.
        The real story is for all those out there... If I have Martin
Walters parts, I'll try to sell them to someone doing a Martin Walters
restoration first, as they are hard to find. If that fails, then they go to
other people, 3 door conversion owners, 88 conversions, whatever. What is
so wrong with that!

        Sorry for the long winded bull lro surfers, but I get pissed off
when I basically try to help out as much as I can, and get labled as the
mysterious MR X who won't do anything for anyone.

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

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Date: Sun, 13 Oct 1996 14:10:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Dormobiles, and the Davis Bros.

Dear Mike:
Stick by your guns, and don't let a couple of crazy brothers get you down.
I appreciate your posts to the list and always learn something.
Rover On!

David Rosenbaum
'94 D90 with Series Roots
Seattle

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