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From: "David Booth" <dbooth@innotts.co.uk>
Subject: For sale
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 1996 12:43:06 +0100

That`s it I give up, its up for sale.
I look at it and don`t have an idea what needs doing!
So if anyone wants it, they are quite welcome to take it off my hand`s.(for
a price)

For sale

1972 diesel lightweight

for more detail email me direct at 

dbooth@innotts.co.uk

I live in Nottingham UK (east midlands) 

------------------------------

Date: 12 Oct 96 08:49:24 EDT
From: William S Kowalski <70252.1204@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Mid-Atlantic Rally

Since returning to Chicago from Penlan Farm, Buckingham County, Virginia, I
haven't seen too many comments posted about the Rally. We want to go on record
and say we had a GREAT time. Sandy, his hard working wife, family and all the
ROAV members should be thanked for putting on the successful event. These things
don't happen over night, it takes a lot of planning, experience and
consideration for the people attending the event.  We are planning to return
next year; the 830 mile, 1 1/2 day trip (one way) was well worth the 2 days at
the farm. And, our '67 109" IIA (Grasshopper) ran flawlessly.  Upon leaving
Sunday, we stopped at a roadside flea market in Fork Union and came across a
Coleman cat heater; could have used it to keep the tent warm, but we now have it
for next year.

I took about 300 photos fo the trip, including the trip there and back, the
people, the LR, and the dogs ( No dogs please----?) If anyone needs a photo of
something, let me know. The showing of "The Gods-----" on Sat nite was a nice
touch, even  though I've seen it before, the flick seemed to have a new meaning
(?) when parked with 132 other LR! I'm sure the theater lawn was well oiled for
the winter.

My only suggestion would be either a posted list of people attending or a big
introduction  ( I hate nametags, too) so we can meet the faces of the names we
continue to see on the Digest, etc.

A job well done!!!!!!!!!!1

Bill Kowalski
Hinsdale, Illinois USA
'67 LR 109" IIA
'63 Austin -Healey  BJ-7
'53 RR Bentley "R"
(The last two stayed home, maybe next year)

PS: Sandy, when do I receive my club membership infor I paid for with my Rally
Registration, I want to attend the regular meetings!  

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Oct 1996 13:56:16 -0700
From: jory bell <jory@mit.edu>
Subject: Re: Good News...Bad News

:over her Bronco II until I popped the question.  She agreed to take a ride in
:one...much progress!  Then, she said that I could get one!!!!!  Yaaahoooo!!!
: This is the Bad News...I was shot down at the last minute.  But the bad news
:leads into the good news...I'm going to be a DAD!!!! ( This accounts for the
:newly aquired income.)  Our first of course.  I'm still in school and will
:graduate in '98.  I'm in the Navy too, and upon graduation, I'll get about a
:$4000 bonus, so guess where that's going.  If it's a boy, I'll definately be
:getting one!  I have to teach my son the truths about 4X4's...ya see, I
grew up
:in J**ps.  But I have since been cured of my brainwashing!

I'd say it would be just as important (if not more so) if your progeny was
a girl (unless you're one of those tailhook folks ;)

::jory

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Oct 1996 10:48:52 PST
Subject: Re: Yet still another 88" for sale in AZ
From: rhodesia@juno.com (Chris R. Whitehead)

On Fri, 11 Oct 1996 09:52:29 -0400 GElam30092@aol.com writes:
>Chris writes "If you are still interested I ahve an acquaintance who 
>has a
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
>price kept me from purchasing it.  Chris, what's he asking ?
>Gerry E.
>PHX  AZ

Gerry,

He is asking about 10,000, but that of course is negotiable. actually if
you want a Land Rover that is in great condition and won't need almost
anything done to it then this is a good buy. I bought mine for 4400 and
have had to put another 5000 into it to get it all fixed up. He has a
saying that goes you can buy a cheap Land Rover and fix it up, or you
can buy a good redone one, but both ways you are going to spend around
10,000 by the time you are finished. For a vehicle that has seating and
trim in the original style Rhino cloth (all had to be hand made or
colored), with a frame up restoration, great paint job that will last a
good 10-15 years and still look like new, and a limited warranty that
Marty is prepared to offer.

Cheers

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Oct 1996 17:13:29 -0500
From: Paul Hanson <"HANSONPA@"@mail.milwaukee.k12.wi.us>
Subject: A Desiel Question

Are the Land Rover 2.5 Desiel engines in the ser.111 88 Land Rovers 
suppose to be THAT noisy?  I recently picked up a restored LR with this 
engine and I could not believe that it could EVER be so loud.  If so, 
what in "tarnation" can be done to lessen the DBs?
	Thanks!
	Paul Hanson [ "Rover-un-works" and Renewed Trad. Victim].

------------------------------

From: EvanD103@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 1996 20:09:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Coolant leak/hole in my head

   A few days ago I posted the observation that now that my transfer box is
fairly quiet the headgasket on my '73 Ser III 2.25l petrol engine had started
to seep at the rear.
   Further examination disclosed that the seep was from the core plug at the
back of the head, not from the head gasket.  In retrospect I probably should
have brushed it clean and smeared on some epoxy, but I thought I'd do it
right. 
    Off came the head, and out came the plug.  It takes a few seconds to type
that, but all afternoon to get that plug out.  I thought it was a thin steel
plug that would pop out with a large screw driver after driving the end
through.  But no, this sucker was a half inch thick aluminum plug screwed
into the head, then ground off flush.  I got it out, but not without damaging
the threads in the head - they're pretty screwed up, no pun intended.  In
fact they look a bit like the interupted threads in the breech of a cannon.  
   That's what happens when you drill twenty small holes near the outer
surface of a plug to try to convince it to let go!  To make a long story
short, I'll need to seal the new plug with something more than teflon tape or
gasket sealant.  I was thinking of using epoxy (JB Weld is the trade name),
but wonder if it can stand the heat, which would be approximatly that of
boiling water I suppose.  Any thoughts?
Sincerely,
  erik
Erik van Dyck
Stone Mountain, Georgia

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Oct 1996 18:40:36 -0700
From: faurecm@halcyon.com (C. Marin Faure)
Subject: Re: 3.9 and 4.0 engines

A question was asked about the relationship between the 3.9 and 4.0 litre
V-8 engines.  I'm pretty sure they both actually have the same
displacement. However, there are a number of differences in the engines
themselves.  The 3.9 is the final iteration of the original Buick V-8,
which I believe started out at 3.5 litres.  Thus the Rover 3500.  Along the
way, the engine gained some more displacement, electronic ignition,
computer controlled fuel injection, and some other improvements, but the
3.9 was basically the same as the original.

The 3.5-3.9 engines are great.  But when Rover stroked it out a' la TVR to
make the 4.2 litre engine that was put in the US-spec Range Rover County
LWB, the engine's reputation went downhill fast.  From everything I've
heard from mechanics and owners, the 4.2 is a bad engine.  The problem is
that the block, bushings, bearings, and crank were not really strong enough
to take the extra power.  The result is an engine that is prone to head
gasket problems, oil leaks, and can generally be a pain in the butt.  In
short, if you have a 1993-1994 County LWB with the 4.2 engine you might do
well to think about trading it in while it's still running reasonably well.
The County LWB also has the first generation, trouble-prone, air
suspension, but that's another story.

Rover solved the problems of the 4.2 by considerably redesigning the inside
of the engine, including beefing up some of the internal structure, going
to a heavier crank, and improving the bushings and bearings.  The result
was the basic engine that is used for both the 4.0 and 4.6 Range Rovers,
and, I assume, the 4.0 Discovery and Defender as well.  Although the
engines are relatively new, my friends in England tell me it they are
proving to be great performers, and both versions seem to be every bit as
reliable as the original 3.9 engine, if not more so.  The 4.0 gets better
fuel mileage, but the 4.6 has considerably more usable power.

In its original form, the Buick V-8 (which was actually derived from the
aluminum BMW V-8 that powered their 507) tends to torque or twist its block
under very high power loads.  The reason it has been so successful in
sports cars like the Morgan and TVR is because the cars themselves were so
light.  I would imagine that with the beefed up block and internal
components, specialists can now get even more power out of the Rover V-8.

Marin Faure
  1973 LR Series III 88
  1991 RR Vogue SE

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Oct 1996 22:32:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: rovah@agate.net (John Cassidy)
Subject: Zenith Carb.Troubles

    I rebuilt the Zenith carb on my Series III the other day because it
seemed responsible for the poor running.  Problem is, it's no better now!
    The symptoms are poor idle and "bogging down" with acceleration.  When
looking into the carb, the gas seems to be sporadically spraying out
instead of a nice  steady flow.  This has necessitated running with the
choke on a couple of times. Of course, now the plugs are fouled!  The fuel
mixture screw on the carb is having no effect on idle speed.
    On rebuilding the unit, all seemed well except for a tear in the
"economy valve" on the top half.  The spring that was supposed to  be under
the cover was also missing.  Thought  this might be the problem, but
apparently not!  Interesting that the accelerator pump piston did not "drop
free," as was noted in two texts I consulted. I couldn't budge it! There is
a small ball valve at the opposite end of the accelerator pump from the
piston and it was moving freely. All passages were cleaned and blown out
with compressed  air. Float height was set.
     I'm thinking that the accelerator pump piston is the root of all the
problems(especially since I replaced everything else!).  Any of you
experienced carb technicians recognize the problem!?
     In case anybody is wondering, points, rotor, and condensor are new and
set, timing is roughly set, valve clearances set, new spark plugs with
correct gap.  Cleaned fuel bowl and replaced in-line filter.
      Tonight on the way to a friend's house, the truck stalled and almost
couldn't be started. I hobbled to his house and we found no spark in the
distributor.  Coil lead was fine. Had the old condensor and put it back in
and she fired right back up!  Glad I hung onto it! :-)

Thanks for any help!  I really want to start driving this thing daily-it's
a lot of fun!

Cheers!  John

John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA

2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover, 1966 Series IIA 88", 1974
Series III 88"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Oct 1996 20:22:12 -0700
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: Zenith Carb.Troubles

John,

>    I rebuilt the Zenith carb on my Series III the other day because it
>seemed responsible for the poor running.  Problem is, it's no better now!

I'm no carb guy so can't help much.  But I learned something which surprised
me about the Zenith carbs when I was trying to get my Series III with a new
Zenith smogged and was told that the carb had to be rebuilt.  I was shocked
and very dubious that the shop was being straight with me.  After the
rebuild the shop guy said he'd had to epoxy a couple of the plugged passages
which were leaking and causing extra fuel to be dumped in at idle.  I passed
smog but was still doubtful.

But then I heard from Steve Hedke at British Pacific that he tears apart
every new Zenith, before offering it for sale, and does this to it because
it's a typical problem.  Seems that the Zenith used on the Land-Rover
2.25-liter engine was designed for something else and so has some reduntant
passages that have to be blocked for the Land-Rover application.  And
apparently Zenith does a sloppy job of this.

This is probably not your problem but you might send your message to Steve
at British Pacific <britpac@aol.com> and see what he says.  He seems to know
a lot about this carb.

Hope this helps,

Granny

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Oct 1996 20:42:33 -0700
From: Jeremy J Bartlett <Bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: 110 Oil Pressure Guage Operation - D90 Add On?

I'm hoping someone out there with a 110 can answer a question
for me on the 110 oil pressure guage.

I'm considering the feasibility of adding the 110 oil pressure guage 
to my D90 but can't quite get enough details out of the parts
and shop manuals to assess the possibility of the operation
(surprised ? :) ).  None of the circuit diagrams include
the guage (is it mechanical???), but the wiring harness parts
show a connection and the parts catalogue includes a"lead link".

As I make it out the guage is an electronic device hooked to
an additional terminal near the oil filter which requires a
transducer and additional "lead link".  Apart from that it appear
that it would be a straight swap in based on the 110 and 90 
electrical wiring diagrams.

Can anyone confirm this?

TIA

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

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