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From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Double Declutching and Weber Carb Solutions
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 96 08:52:00 DST

When downshifting, or selecting gears from stationary, on a gearbox without 
syncromesh the object is to match the speeds of the components to prevent 
crashing and grinding.

To achieve this when down changing you must raise the speed of the parts to 
enable the sliding spline to engage. This is done by: 1 depress clutch and 
shift into neutral; 2 raise clutch and blip throttle to speed up parts in 
the gearbox; 3 depress clutch and engage lower gear. Experience will teach 
you how much to raise the speed.

When selecting first or reverse from a standstill you need to stop the 
gearbox internals spinning before engaging the gear. This is done by using 
the syncro on third as a brake. Depress the clutch shift towards third 
momentarily and then select first or reverse. The alternative is to wait 
until oil drag overcomes clutch drag before selecting a gear, which can be a 
long time (or never ) depending on your oil and clutch characteristics. 
Using the above method it is possible to shift silently (from a gearbox 
point of view) into first at 15 mph. Though why anyone would want to do 
this, except in an emergency, I don't know.

You amy recall the thread on Webers, idle setting and flooding. Last 
weeekend while on the Morgan Car Club Toy Run along with Bill Leacock (See 
Land Rover Owners do some things for charity), we got into a discussion 
about these carb problems because I almost stalled at the end of the run due 
to flooding. The outcome of our chat was that we decided my fuel pressure 
was too high (I have an electric pump). I checked and found staic delivery 
from the pump was 7psi, stock mechanical pump is rated 1.5 to 2 psi. I've 
added an additional return line from the carb inlet port back to tank 

fuel pressure is now 2 psi static and 1.5 when accelerating hard at 3500 
rpm. I can actually set the idle mixture now and the engine speed changes. 
Previously fuel must have been just spilling through the needle valve and 
out the main jet. Haven't had a chance to check the hot flooding condition 
yet, that will have to wait until spring unless we have an Indian summer.

BTW If drilling your ports be careful to mount the carb securely as the 
drill is very ready to grab in the zinc alloy as it breaks through. Probably 
the drill bit should be reground to a different angle for zinc.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Oct 96 13:35:11 UT
From: "Stephen Miller" <BOMILCAR@msn.com>
Subject: PIAA 80 series

A couple of weeks ago I came upon a Performance shop that was liquidating 
their stock of PIAA lights.  He had just a few items left and was about to 
ship them back to PIAA.  I got the chance to sift through the box he was 
sending back and came upon a pair or 80 series lights.  No wiring harness, 
just lights and bulbs and mounting hardware.  Great deal, $112.50 for the 
pair.  

My first thought was they would be great for my 88 RR on long drives across 
Texas.  It looks like they are just to fat to mount on the bumper with any 
degree of safety.  Thus the 73 Series III will get them.  
1.  Any one mounted 80 series PIAAs on a Series III?
2.  Will I have to do anything special to the e-system from a safety or 
performance stand point.
My plan is to wire a three position switch to a relay to the lights totally 
independent of the current lights.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Steve
73 Series III Original owner
88 RR

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 09:55:36 -0900 (PDT)
From: Chris Murray <murraycm@bc.edu>
Subject: Starting problems!! 

hello!

i've had my rover for 2 yrs now and even after my recent tune-up, 
i have a consistent problem:

the rover starts fine, and idles fine, but when i go to 
accelerate, if i do it only slightly too fast, the engine begins 
to stall.  in order to get going, i need to "double pump" the 
accelerator to get the rpm's up.

then...

this morning, it seems this problem may have worsened.  the rover 
started fine, but about two seconds in idle and it stopped.  
wouldn't start for an hour.  tried it again.  started right up and 
seconds later it was dead.  the tank is full. battery is now 
dead.  gotta find that crank. 

fuel pump? carburetor?

one other note....

thinking about a carb. rebuild, mine says SOLEX on it.  now, 
looking in my Haynes manual, i see a photo of a solex that looks 
nothing like mine!  in fact, the photo they show of the zenith 
looks almost exactly like my solex.  this is a little odd.  could 
it be a misprint, or do i just have a very strange carb???

thanks mucho for any help!!!

chris
1964 88" IIA
Brighton,MA

------------------------------

From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de
Subject: Re: What have I done??
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 13:20:04 +0200 (METDST)

| When I first read this, I thought it was referring to sleeping in the Landy.
| I haven't managed it, but I know a lass who has (I was busy driving...).
My girlfriend frequently does, too. I always wonder how.

Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                 tbr1102@sunmail.lrz-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 11:12:28 -0400
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Rally Report

Hi all,

Just giving my subjective impressions of the Rally: COLD Friday night
but a great day Saturday.  Had to have been 100-120 land rovers and
range rovers.

Great to finally meet Charlie from Rovers North...a little embarassing
to have him find a front prop shaft that not only is in backwards but
also is not a rover shaft and is quickly wearing out the U joint.  

However, found a used front prop shaft with good U joints there at the
rally for $25.  What a find.

Special thanks to Dave Bobeck:  Now the the bottom cover of the gearbox
is on correctly is leaks much better than before.

My only regret is that we had to leave early.  Next year we'll be there
until the end.

Great to see so many there from the list too.

Nate Dunsmore

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 07:45:27 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: Re: Starting problems!! 

Chris Murray wrote:
 
> i've had my rover for 2 yrs now and even after my recent tune-up,
> i have a consistent problem:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> to stall.  in order to get going, i need to "double pump" the
> accelerator to get the rpm's up.

Before looking for bigger problems make sure your choke is functioning 
properly. A choke that isn't opening fully can cause your symptoms.

Cheers, Greg

------------------------------

From: Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 16:07:31 +0000
Subject: What have I done??

>I have been looking for a LR for about a month, and reading from this
>group for about the same time, when it happend, I had to buy one. Its
>a 1972 series 3 ex-MOD lightweight diesel and since owning it about a
>day I have noticed a few problems.

>3
>When first starting the engine there is what looks like white smoke
>coming out of the exhaust, this seems to pulse on and off for a bit
>and then vanishes.

Poor litttle thing's cold. Either ignore it or if it really worries 
you, give it 20 seconds of glowplug to start

>5
>I have also found that sleeping is now impossible, I can only sit up
>in bed muttering "What have I done!!!"

Theat 'll be the rain blasting on the roof. Polysstyrene tiles will 
deaden the sound and lessen the condensation.......

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 08:37:59 -0700
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: Re: Turbo on 2.25l diesel

Regarding turbos on 2.25 diesels: I had an interesting chat with DAP several 
years ago about their experiences doing the very thing. They highly 
recommended mild turbocharging stock engines, but NOT TO EXCEED 3.5 psi 
boost. If the turbo is sized correctly, it will not add torque at low rpms, 
but rather at the upper (highway) rpm range. My stock 2.25, with its marine 
injector pump settings, drives nicely at 100kph (61mph), whereupon the 
governor limits further acceleration. An OD would be practical if it had 
more torque on the highway. My suggestion: Buy a correctly sized NEW turbo 
and install it following the suppliers recommendations regarding oil supply 
and drain, wastegate, cooling, etc. Turbo-City and other suppliers have very 
good books detailing how to go about it. I have a used turbo that I plan to 
experiment with, and have almost finished the manifold, but have little time 
to pursue it for now. When I do I will be sure to post what I learn.

>I am considering fitting a turbo on my SIII 2.25l diesel & need some advice.
>Firstly, It feels like sacrilage to even consider it, but with all the money I 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>drive, say 110kph (comfortably)?  (The car is at the moment 100% original.)
>Secondly - is this a good idea?  Will it let me drive that fast(huh?)?  
Will it 
>give me any troubles?
>3) What changes does this require inside the engine?
>4) Should I pay someone to do it, or should I do it myself?
>5) What should I do to get the right gear-ratio - fit an overdrive or 

change the 
>ratio in the gearbox?
>6) I hear its a good idea to get better brakes.  Any suggestions?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>University of Pretoria
>South Africa

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 08:41:09 -0700
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: What have I done??

At 01:20 PM 10/7/96 +0200, you wrote:
>| When I first read this, I thought it was referring to sleeping in the Landy.
>| I haven't managed it, but I know a lass who has (I was busy driving...).
>My girlfriend frequently does, too. I always wonder how.

Mine too.  Amazing.  I wonder if my talking has anything to do with it...

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 11:45:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Rally Report

On Mon, 7 Oct 1996, Nathan Dunsmore wrote:

> Just giving my subjective impressions of the Rally: COLD Friday night
> but a great day Saturday.  Had to have been 100-120 land rovers and
> range rovers.

	Ice/frozen dew on the ground Saturday morning...  Much better 
	Saturday evening.  By 4am it was quite acceptable (Dave Bobeck 
	and I were the only left.  To one side we had Bill Adams diesel
	running, to the other a particular net person snoring away.  About
	equal volume...  :-))  133 Rovers there.  Happily, Sandy had three kegs 
	of beer for us to consume to help keep warm.

	Trials course had been extended.  Bit longer this year.  Others found
	some trails nearby and seemed to return rather muddy after an evening
	of running about.

	Good sized internet ghetto there.  A lot of people from the list were
	there.  Even Spencer Norcross made it the 100 miles without breaking
	something.  Georgia boys were subdued this year.  Not too much
	potato cannon action.

	Not sure what went on Sunday.  (had to leave to be back here for Monday
	am meetings...)  Had a good time down there.  A lot of fun.

	Trivia:  it is 2km shorter coming back than going down.  Coming
	back at about 110-120kph I was passed 6 times between Virginia
	and the Canadian border.  In Canada at 120-130kph I lost track on the 
	number of times passed in the 60km stretch to the Ottawa turnoff.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 11:27:38 EDT
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Judge dredd

I was at Dunsfold on Sunday. There were 2 BT liveried ROAD LEGAL 101s
with the Judge Dredd bodywork fitted.

They had gained another headlamp and a few other lights along with a
couple of numberplates. They also had huge tyres to make up for loosing
the silly wheel trims.

Now that would turn a few heads drivning along the sea front!

I want one!

Have fun, Steve

Steve Reddock, Xyratex        |  "NEVER QUESTION AN
Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450      |   ENGINEER'S OPINION,
IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P)            |   YOU THUNDERING MORON !"
Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com  |     - Dogbert 1996

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 17:12:04 +0100
From: whastelow@atlas.co.uk (Simon Ward-Hastelow)
Subject: Dipstick award candidate!

Following on from Steve Reddock's idea of dipstick awards.

I think we could all probably nominate ourselves for the award, I have yet
to met a solihull devotee that has not, at some time, kicked themselves for
their own stupidity.

I am no exception, I've only had my early type 110 V8 for just about 18
months and I could nominate myself a hundred times over!

I may recount some of these episodes to you all later but here's one to be
going on with;

I had to fit a new petrol tank, I got the old one off OK and got the new
one all painted up ready to fit, with the level indicator thingy all in
place, connected it all up and off I went to the garage to fill it up.

Even with it only half full, it's quite amazing how much petrol can leak
from the tank when you forget to put the rubber sealing ring around the
level indicator thingy before fitting!

The solution was to park with one side up on the pavement then jack it up
even further, looking alarmingly unsafe, then try to get the sender out,
fit the sealing ring and put it back together. Easier said than done when
it's all fitted and a bloody great chassis in your way. It would have been
easier if  the new tank had a drain plug like the old one so I could drain
some fuel first. . .

but then again it would have been better to do it right in the first place!

___________________________________________________________________

Simon Ward-Hastelow

Orpington, Kent, U.K.

whastelow@atlas.co.uk

___________________________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 17:19:00 +0100
From: whastelow@atlas.co.uk (Simon Ward-Hastelow)
Subject: Re: Judge dredd

>I was at Dunsfold on Sunday. There were 2 BT liveried ROAD LEGAL 101s
>with the Judge Dredd bodywork fitted.
>I want one!

A couple of months ago I read an article that said that Dunsfold would be
selling off their 101 Judge Dredd vehicles for around 6,500 uk pounds.
initially they were keeping them in case a sequel to the film was to be
made but that looks unlikely.

All that they needed to be uk road legal was proper wheels and tyres,
lights and a windscreen.

The ones Steve saw probably had these things already done.

BUT REMEMBER these film vehicles only had one door - at the back - and no
ventilation of any kind.

___________________________________________________________________

Simon Ward-Hastelow

Orpington, Kent, U.K.

whastelow@atlas.co.uk

___________________________________________________________________

------------------------------

From: PDoncaster@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 13:35:32 -0400
Subject: subscribe uk-lro

subscribe uk-lro pdoncaster@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 07:16:55 -0600 (MDT)
From: Rob Bailey <baileyr@cuug.ab.ca>
Subject: Re: my Coolant temperatures

>My petrol engine w/190deg thermostat ran 80c to 90c highway, nudging over 
>90 up hills. Much lower off-road (60-70c). My diesel, same thermostat, runs 
>hotter up hills (up to 115c on really long hills), but otherwise seems 
>the same. The diesel thermostat is at the rear of the head, petrol at the 
>front, which may be most of the difference.

Thanks for the info. After I ran the radiator purge for about a week, I 
flushed it out (it took 6 times to flush out the crap left in there for 
35 years) I removed the thermostat housing, and the previous owner had 
the thermostat in upside down. Cooling problem solved. Actually it makes 
perfect sense, as on the highway the increase in air flow would cool the 
rad, closing the thermstat (as well as thermostat would open against the 
flow, making it even worse...), which would let the engine temp creep up 
just at high speeds. Coming back from 4x4'ing Saturday, it never went 
over 95 degrees, despite being warm and climbing several long hills. I've 
always just tolerated the increased temp, blaming the rad, should have 
torn it apart last summer, when I first started noticing the problems.

Rob

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 14:13:24 -0500
From: "Benjamin G. Newman,MD" <medone@iag.net>
Subject: [Fwd: Watch OUT]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mozilla-Status: 0001

I have requested info about your operation over the internet. The 
response was many(30).Everyone was a negative comment,such as poor 
workman ship,dishonest dealings,illegal imports,etc. A US Custom agent 
told me that your company is on a hot list for investigation.
Please comment on these responses and tell me why I SHOULD  DO 
BUISNESS with you.I will put your response out over the internet.
Benjamin G. Newman

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 14:31:04 -0400
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Used chassis

Dear all,
        We are going to be doing a 109 coil chassis on a Rover that
currently has a rust free chassis. The client does not want the old parts,
so I thought I'd toss them out to see if anyone needs them. Parts avail
will be chassis, springs *new fronts* shocks, axles, complete with brakes
etc. *but no diffs* standard rear not Salisbury. This is from a 109 NADA 6,
and all is great stuff. Chassis has never been patched, or had ANY rust
that I can find. Best offer. It will be avail. late this year.
        Thanks.

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

Subject: Hella Lights on Discovery
From: Ken Wallich <ken@wallich.com>
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 12:31:37 -0700

Greg's note about Hella's on his D90 reminded me, I'm having similar throws 
with putting them on my Discovery.

I got the Expedition Rack with the hope of tossing 4 lights up there (plus the 
joy of having all that storage). Since I opted for the winch, I can't put them 
up front of the grille, although I could potentially slap some lights up there 
on the sides of the winches a-bar. I plan to socket the connections so I can 
remove the rack at some point, but that's not really the issue.

I don't want to drill a hole in the steel roof, 'cause then I'd spend too much 
time worrying about rust, and I'm not sure how I would route the wires. I 
don't want to put a hole in the front pillar where it will be constantly 
pelted by the elements and invite water intrusion. I briefly considered 
running the wires down the rack to the back, in under the rear washer fixture, 
then back through the cab. Then I realized running 15 feet of wire just to 
have to route it back under the bonnet would be daft.

I briefly considered running it inside the stock top rails, but getting them 
run inside through the headliner looked like way too delicate of a task for me.

Finally I considered just doing a hack and running the wire around and down 
behind the door seal, then out and under the bonnet. This looks like it'd work 
for 2 wires, but if I'm running 4 lights, I'll have at least 8 wires, or 4 a 
side.

So, has anyone done anything like this? Any novel ideas? 

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 13:02:57 -0700
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: Hella Lights ideas

Ken asks:
(snip)
>for 2 wires, but if I'm running 4 lights, I'll have at least 8 wires, or 4 a 
>side.
>So, has anyone done anything like this? Any novel ideas? 

Why not run a single (heavy) wire, to a single (heavy-duty) relay?
Novel ideas? sure: just run two wires: one to a relay mounted on the rack, 
the other to a battery mounted next to it for recharging. Or the one-wire 
system: leave out the above mentioned recharging wire and mount a solar 
panel to recharge the battery. Or mount the switch outside on the rack, and 
NO wires going inside.

Just trying to be helpful
JohnO

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 13:17:26 -0700
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: Hella Lights, but seriously folks

Something dangerous I learned on my 109: if lights are mounted above the 
windscreen, be aware of their "glare" (for lack of a better term). If mine 
had been mounted an inch further back they would not spill light onto the 
windshield, edge-lighting every bug smear, snowflake, raindrop, etc to be 
found there. With muddy slush on the windshield the effect of turning on the 
overhead lights is to COMPLETELY OBSCURE ALL FORWARD VISIBILITY. I mean 
_all_, to the extent that even the spare tire cannot be seen, let alone 
branches, rocks, dropoffs, etc. 

To avoid such a problem, place a straightedge (aka "stick") upright from the 
bottom of the windshield up past the lip of the roof. Mount the lights with 
their lens' behind the straightedge.

If the holes weren't already there, I'd take the lights off.

JohnO

------------------------------

From: ben@bell-labs.com
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 17:51:14 -0400
Subject: Renewed Traditions again...

ARRGHHHH! this comes up every couple of months.  OK, here's my take:

Avon LR, their UK counterpart, is as crooked as I've ever seen'em.
RT themselves aren't much better.  It took me many months to get the
parts that Avon and RT owed me, and I am still waiting on one part.
Forget them!!
Jan

------------------------------

From: David W Scott <birddog@atl.mindspring.com>
Subject: scuba tires
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 15:53:21 -0600

I am a former Navy Demolition diver.  We blew up tires all the time with =
scuba tanks, never had any problems except when we were drinking.  When =
they blew it really didn't hurt that bad, nothing like the pain on a two =
hundred mile trip in a LR.  have a great day birddog

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 18:40:40 -0400
From: Michel Mayer <michel.mayer@uqat.uquebec.ca>
Subject: unsubcribe Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com

unsubcribe Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
Michel Mayer
Rouyn-Noranda, Quebec
Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 18:42:58 -0400
From: Michel Mayer <michel.mayer@uqat.uquebec.ca>
Subject: unsubcribe Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com

unsubcribe Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 17:45:13 -0700
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Double Declutching and Weber Carb Solutions

Easton Trevor wrote:
> When downshifting, or selecting gears from stationary, on a gearbox without
> syncromesh the object is to match the speeds of the components to prevent
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 40 lines)]
> drill is very ready to grab in the zinc alloy as it breaks through. Probably
> the drill bit should be reground to a different angle for zinc.If you have a problem with your electric fuel pump putting out too much 
pressure, there is a regulator you can put in the line that is 
adjustable.  It is in the J.C. Whitney Catalogue.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 18:05:18 -0700
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Starting problems!! 

Greg Moore wrote:
> Chris Murray wrote:
> > i've had my rover for 2 yrs now and even after my recent tune-up,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> properly. A choke that isn't opening fully can cause your symptoms.
> Cheers, GregI agree that a poorly operating choke will cause the problems starting 
you are having, but I also had these problems and an electric pump solved 
them immediately.  My bowl wasn't full at start up and it starved for 
fuel untill I gave it an extra pump to get the pump pressure up.  Now I 
don't even need the choke.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 20:42:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: Series IIa Electrics-HELP

Okay, Okay, so I had a few beers on Friday before I started tinkering with
the CB radio installation.

This list is amazing! That plea for help at 1:30 am was greeted with four
responses by dawn (none of which came from Penlan Farm, I might add. Those
folks, I believe, were tapping the second keg about then). In any case, the
mistake was mine--put the starter motor lead back in the wrong place on the
ignition switch. Thankfully, everything was set right by 10 am on Saturday
and we made it to the Mid-Atlantic event. Thanks to Steve Bradke, Rob
Davis, Jeremy, Michel Bertrand, and David Place, to name a few.

Hats off to Sandy and all who helped stage the Rally. And seeing all those
Rovers lined up on the way to the drive-in was a real moving experience.

Chris Stevens
Towson, MD
'69 Series IIa SW 88"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 00:13:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: rovah@agate.net (John Cassidy)
Subject: Konig Winch Parts Wanted/Series III Questions

To any of you on the list with Konig parts sitting around(there's always
hope!), I need the piece which connects to the rear output shaft of the
transmission.  I have the winch and the drive shaft, but not this other
part. If you have one kicking about, please E-mail me  direct!

    I have a couple of questions regarding trouble shooting two gauges on
my  recently acquired Series III.  The Smith's oil pressure unit does not
appear to be functioning. How do I test/trouble shoot this, and how does
the damn thing come out of the dash!?  It's located in the center of the
dash, in the small oblong indent in the trim.
    The fuel gauge  seems to have decided to take a vacation as well.  Tank
is full,  but it reads just proud of 1/4  full.  Where do I start?

    One good bit of news...only headlight that was functioning was driver's
side high beam.  I though for sure it was some difficult electrical
problem.  Used the multimeter and found the wires to be hot at both high
and low beam positions and promptly purchased two new sealed units.  Voila!
High and low beams!  I have to justify that mulitmeter to my wife somehow!
;-)

Thanks for your help!  John

John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA

2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover, 1966 Series IIA 88", 1974
Series III 88"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 22:06:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Blair Gillespie <Gillespie@thegrid.net>
Subject: Re: Konig Winch Parts Wanted/Series III Questions

John,
        Just my humble opinon but it looks like you are able to justify just
about anything! A multi meter would seem to be the least of your problems.
Either you have a very understanding wife our you need to share your wisdom
with the rest of us.
        Rover On,
                Blair

A
>2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
>4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover, 1966 Series IIA 88", 1974
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover, 1966 Series IIA 88", 1974
>Series III 88"
Blair Gillespie
San Luis Obispo Ca. USA
1988 Range Rover (For Sale)
1972 S III 88
1967 FLH HD

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Oct 1996 01:23:57 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Downeast photo...

Mike Rooth sez...

>>Was this photo that has been talked about so much taken in Owles Head?
>It was indeed...and she was surrounded by the most lecherous looking
>bunch its ever been my priviledge to see.And that bloke at the back
>with the pipe was *the* worst:-)
-

Yup... but the view from the back was *almost* as good as the front. Just
ask Jeff Berg...

------------------------------

From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de
Subject: Re: What have I done??
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 07:53:32 +0200 (METDST)

| >| When I first read this, I thought it was referring to sleeping in the Landy.
| >| I haven't managed it, but I know a lass who has (I was busy driving...).
| >My girlfriend frequently does, too. I always wonder how.
| Mine too.  Amazing.  I wonder if my talking has anything to do with it...
hm! new point of view.... will have to think about that.  ;-)

---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                 tbr1102@sunmail.lrz-muenchen.de

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 16:29:34 +0800 (SGT)
From: silkris@pacific.net.sg (Silver Kris)
Subject: Repair Operation Manual Discrepancies

Hi,

Just a note to those who still use  the 2.6l (6 cylinder) petrol engine
(smooth but what a petrol guzzler)

I have been trying all sorts of after market carburetter cleaners, but they
all cannot do a satisfactory job. So, I decided to undertake an overhaul of
my carb.

I used the Land Rover Series III Repair Operation Manual (Publication part
number AKM 3648) as my guide.

Overhaul and adjust, Carburetter, Zenith type 175CD 2s is listed under
operation number 19.15.17, in the manual. Having stripped down my carb
following strictly to instructions from the manual, I did not take note of
the order of parts that came out of the carb,(silly me) thinking that the
manual will guide me back correctly, when assembling. Alas, I was
dreadfully wrong.

I found the instructions, as well as the illustration (no.IRC 1076) were
wrong! Washers , O Rings, springs and jets were placed in a totally wrong
order.

For those who use this manual, please note carefully, the order of
arrangement of washers, jets and springs as they come out of your jet
assembly. Alternatively, follow the illustration numbered IRC 1071 and
disregard the instructions for re-assembly.

You'll be pleasantly surprised how much improvement in power and fuel
economy a properly overhauled carb can give you.

Cheers!
Lawrence
Singapore (where they fine you for chewing gum)
LR 109 Series III 2.6l

------------------------------

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