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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 07:06:21 -0700
From: Heather Dixon <hldixon@top.monad.net>
Subject: Re: D90 &Disco in Four Wheeler

Gregspitz@aol.com wrote:

Go to your local newstand and purchase it.

------------------------------

From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com>
Subject: RE: Series Land Rover signs
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 08:58:17 -0400

I too have one of what's left of the yellow dealer sign w/green =
lettering. The stuff is so brittle that once it cracks it literally =
shatters when you touch it. Transporting same would, IMHO, be a risky =
venture...

One of my million back-burnered projects is to try and piece this jigsaw =
puzzle back together with glue and strapping tape on the inside. It =
should then be hung up somewhere and yep, a light behind it would look =
cool.

Cheers
Jim

----------
From:  Michel Bertrand[SMTP:mbertran@InterLinx.qc.ca]
Sent:  Sunday, October 06, 1996 1:25 AM
Subject:  Re: Series Land Rover dealer

At 22:34 96-10-05 -0500, you wrote:

-The LR sign is a old style LR oval measuring about 4 ft by 2 1/2 ft.  =
Made
-of plastic, it is cracked.  At one time, he says, a LR club in =
Virginia,
-wanted to buy it but he still wanted it at the time.  His price is =
$500.  It
-sound high to me and I have not seen it, but if anybody is interested, =
email
-me directly and I will pass it on.

I have one of those signs right here on the wall facing my PC. It is =
yellow
with green lettering and it was originally in West Brome, Quebec, at =
Corry
Motors, in the Eastern Townships. Just for figures, Corry Motors =
delivered
some 300+ Land Rovers to the Quebec Hydro to develop the James Bay =
project
in the late 60's, early 70's.

Mine is not cracked, and I definetely would'nt pay 500$ U.S for it. It =
is
pretty nice though, butI still need to find a neon light to go behind. =
Right
now, it is Lucas-powered :-)

I might bring it to a rally, some day...

Salutations,

Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca <<---- Note new address!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Oct 96 13:16:43 +0000
From: "John Elliott" <john@horcum.com>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

>> I have recently purchased a 110 and am experiencing difficulties 
>> changing into third gear. Any ideas of what the problem could be??
>> and how to solve it?

Life - my 110 ('84)  is the same. Make sure you push the clutch all the way
in.

------------------------------

John Elliott <john@horcum.com>

------------------------------

From: echo@pacific.net.sg
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 22:17:38 +0800 (SGT)
Subject: Thanks and

At 09:41 AM 10/4/96 +0100, you wrote:
>Hi,
>Sorry for not answering earlier.
>I do not know for sure the phasing on the series III 109.

Thanks much for the info.

I was stripping down my distributor(Lucas 25D) to service and change O
rings. Borrowed a good piece as a sample in case. 

I found hammered to the centrifugal advance weight, the number 18 degrees on
my distributor, and 12 degrees on the new piece.

Can anyone shed some light what these numbers are for? If they are the
amount of advance, why then are they different rates on distributors of the
same part number; there again, this might be too much to ask of a Lucas.
What's more, the centrifugal weights are similar and weigh the same.

Also, I have installed a Superwinch overdrive. It runs great with my present
engine and gearbox config (LR 109, 2.6 L petrol) giving me good cruising
speed and sufficient torque even for city driving. 

I can engage the overdrive while moving, but cannot disengage unless I slow
down to almost a halt. I have adjusted the stop bolts but to no success. The
brass gears in the O/D seems brand new. Anyone?

Lawrence

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 10:59:49 -0400
Subject: Today's score...

Today's score:
  Lucas  1
  Me       0

see 'ya on the old road...
Jim '61 LR 88" SW  w/ 16's, OD 1 Bbl weber (econobox?)  "Nicky"
LR...quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised!  

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 08:20:13 -0700
From: Jeremy J Bartlett <Bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Series IIA Electrics-HELP!

Michel Bertrand wrote:

> It looks like a late IIA, indeed a 69'. Therefore, the switch is like the
> one on the Series III. It shouldn't have the big starter button under the
> dash and is fitted as a solenoid. The switch does have something to do with
> the starter motor. (I think-correct me anyone?)

I believe that's correct for late IIAs.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 08:21:34 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: What have I done??

At 10:57 AM 10/6/96 +0100, David Booth wrote:

>Well thats it, I gone and done it!
>I must have been guided by evil spirts or somthing!
>Yes I bought my first Land Rover, Why?
;
You can always plead insanity.  That would be belivable.
;
>While driving it back I had to break very sharply, as I did I found the
>right front wheel locked up but not the left causing me too slide sideways
>across the road!!
;
Pull the front brake drums.  One probably has 90 wt all over the shoes.

>When changing gear and accelerating hard, there is a loud thud that comes
>from down near the gearbox. This also happens when I release the
>accelerator.
;
First let off the accelerator when changing gears, and do not "speed shift"
Your box is designed so that everything inside that can, comes to a stop
at the neutral gate.  Trying to overcome this  will break your series III
box.  Your shifts should be include the slightest pause at neutral for
maximum life.  Pretend that the shift lever will break off if you shift too
hard or fast (it has for some people)

Second, immediatly have the 'U' joints checked at the rear propshaft. And
while at it, have the transmission and engine mounts checked.  You may have
a rear prop shaft ready to take a spin away from your car.

>When first starting the engine there is what looks like white smoke coming
>out of the exhaust, this seems to pulse on and off for a bit and then
>vanishes.

Water vapour. Don't worry about it.

>If I rest my foot lightly on the clutch pedal, it slowly goes down to the
>floor and then needs a few pumps before it is normal again.

You probably need to replace your clutch master cylinder.

>I have also found that sleeping is now impossible, I can only sit up in bed
>muttering "What have I done!!!"

You have taken your first step into ether becoming a Land Rover mechanic or
poor or both.  Obviously sanity is not part of the equation.  It was
dropped out prior to purchase.  Someone on the mail list has a .sig that
says something like " There is a pleasure that only mad men know"

You have my condolences

>David Booth
>Nottingham
>England
>72 Series 3 lightweight

TeriAnn Wakeman
Santa Cruz
California

1960 109 two door with slight modifications

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 10:42:52 -0300
From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
Subject: Re: What have I done??

>At 10:57 AM 10/6/96 +0100, David Booth wrote:
>>Well thats it, I gone and done it!
>>I must have been guided by evil spirts or somthing!

David,
        Hate to see you losing sleep, if it really bothers you, sell it to
me.  <g>

Steve Paustian
95 arles blue D90 SW
95 coniston green D90 SW

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS)
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 11:35:53 -0500
Subject: Re: S2a - shifting into 2nd

It took me about six months of owning a IIa before I asked the same   
question.

As others said, the IIa doesn't have synchromesh between first and second   
(and I didn't even *know* what synchromesh meant until dealing with old   
LRs).

Here are my tricks for shifting, thanks to members of the list:

Shifting between 1 and 2 you clutch in to pull out of first, then stop in   
neutral. Let the clutch out while in neutral, then push it back in and   
shift to 2. Smooth as a babys butt (I know, I have a baby, too). This is   
double clutching as other said. It took me about a week to get the hang   
of it, now I do it without thinking and its almost as fast as normal.

You'll also grind going into first with the truck running, like sitting   
at a stop light. The trick here is to go into third first. The light   
changes, clutch in, into third, then over to first. Going into third sets   
up the alignment or something (I don't pretend to know how the   
mechanicals of a transmission work, yet). Same holds true for reverse -   
hit 3rd before going into gear.

Tim
 ---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW  

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 09:34:40 -0700
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: SIIA Wiring Harness

	Yesterday, I replaced the wiring harness on my IIA.  This was an 
all-day job for me, but maybe some of you culd have done it faster.  As I've 
saidon this list before, this rover--which I bought in July--is the first car
I've ever worked on.  I got it together, but due tot the condition of the
wire (totally burned out) I was unable to be certain I had the fuse box 
connected properly and was further unable to determine this from the shop
manual.  So, if on of you kind souls wouldn't mind, I'd appreciate a list
of what color wire goes where on the left and right side of the fuse box.

Thanks,

Chris
'65 IIA
'96 Disco 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 10:50:23 -0700
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Series IIA Electrics-HELP!

Michel Bertrand wrote:
> At 07:39 96-10-05 -0700, you wrote:
> -This is a SIIA with unmodified wiring right?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 36 lines)]
>                                                \______/
> mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca <<---- Note new address!Yes, I also have the late IIA and the starter is part of the ignition 
switch.  For a quick fix to go to the rally, you have to close the 
starter selenoid with the switch contacts and you could do this with a 
spring loaded toggle switch but it is likely you have knocked a wire off. 
 I did just that a month ago on mine, and it was the bullet connector 
that the bullet part had pulled out of when I pulled the dash away.  I 
also disconnected my voltmeter when I did this and yesterday after the 
talk on the net I went out and plugged it back in.  All is fine.  You can 
run a direct lead from the battery using your jumper cables to test the 
starter if you really have doubts that it is just wiring.  Just touch the 
+ to the stud and see if it turns over.  If yes, it is just the lighter 
wire circuit.
On another topic.  You know I have been posting about my spring job 
lately.  Yesterday I finally put the new rubbers in the shock eyes and 
WOW what a difference. :-)  With new bushes, new springs and some real 
shocks, the vehicle is now ready for some long distance work without 
needing a chiropractor at the end of the trip.  I had forgotten what a 
properly set up Land Rover was like.  P.S. if anyone wants a real deal on 
springs contact me directly.  I finally found two for $150 each Canadian, 
and they are made in England.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 11:37:30 -0700
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: IIA Wiring:  Fusebox

I just went out and looked at the fusebox & shop manual (_before_ the beers, 
this time :-).  Here's what I came up with:

	Green  -----|--------------|
	2xLt.Green--|  35 Amp Fuse |---- Brown w/ Blue Stripe
                   |--------------|	

	            |--------------|
	Purple------|  35 Amp Fuse |-----White
                   |--------------|

	Does this look right to anyone?  The problem that I have is the shop
manual referrs 
A1, A2, A3, & A4  in the fuse box, but mine doesn't have those labels (but
it does say
it's Lucas).  There are also some inconsitencies around the ignition/light
switch.

Chris
'65 IIA
'96 Disco

------------------------------

From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Subject: Re: Series Land Rover signs
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 13:06:44 -0600 (MDT)

I was in Bruges, Belgium, (beautiful medieval town) a few months ago.  I 
saw a hole-in-the-wall British car dealer (it was the Defender parked in 
the street that caught my attention; otherwise I would never have 
noticed.)  He still had a British Leyland shingle (his main sign, in 
fact), and one of those old plastic Land Rover signs.  Seems like this 
dealer has been around since at least the Middle Ages (of Land Rover).

T. F. Mills
tomills@du.edu                               University of Denver Library
http://www.du.edu/~tomills                          Denver  CO 80208  USA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 16:57:17 -0400
From: "Jeffrey L. Goldman" <roverboy@gis.net>
Subject: Re: S2a - shifting into 2nd

At 11:35 AM 10/6/96 -0500, you wrote:

>You'll also grind going into first with the truck running, like sitting   
>at a stop light. The trick here is to go into third first. The light   
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>mechanicals of a transmission work, yet). Same holds true for reverse -   
>hit 3rd before going into gear.

        True 'nuff, but you can even merely push the stick toward the third
gear position to synch everything up. You don't *have* to actually clutch
in, shift into third, and then to first... Try it sometime. It makes for a
quicker first gear shift (so idiots don't honk at you off the line).
Similarly, it works for reverse. If you listen carefully (if the engine
doesn't drown it out), you can hear the third gear synchro revving
everything up to speed (at least I think that's what's happening)...

                                                    Jeff...

Boston, MA
1971 88" Series IIA Land Rover (the Get Away vehicle)
1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD (the Getaway vehicle)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 23:15:04 -0700
From: Luc Rokegem <defender@belgonet.be>
Subject: Re: 3rd gear on 100 V8

Kirk Dowswell wrote:
> I have recently purchased a 110 and am experiencing difficulties
> changing into third gear. Any ideas of what the problem could be??
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> and how to solve it?
> --
A year ago I had also the same problem and I went to a local garage
and they rebuild the hole gearbox (the reverse on the layshaft was
also damaged).  After the rebuild I still had the same problem and 
togheter with the mechanic we found that the problem was not such a
problem : On top off the housing-gear lever is a big spring whit is
adjusted with two small bolts (partnumber : SH106201L "Set Screw").
If turning these screws, you can adjust the gear lever so that it
is just in front off 3th/4th gear.  Set it when the gearbox is
cold and readjust if nessecary when the gearbox is hot.
Sincerely,
-- 
 _                  _____       _                             
| |                |  __ \     | |                            
| |    _   _  ___  | |__) |___ | | _____  __ _  ___ _ __ ___  
| |   | | | |/ __| |  _  // _ \| |/ / _ \/ _` |/ _ \ '_ ` _ \ 
| |___| |_| | (__  | | \ \ (_) |   <  __/ (_| |  __/ | | | | |
|______\__,_|\___| |_|  \_\___/|_|\_\___|\__, |\___|_| |_| |_|
                                          __/ |               
                                         |___/                

             _______________                
            //  |           |    St-Pauwels  (Belgie)
      ____ //___|           |#   defender@belgonet.be
     |   __            __   |#   
     |__/  \__________/  \__|    
        \__/          \__/    

http://www.belgonet.be/~bn000165/index.html 
  
     \|/
    ( ..)                    
--oOO-()-OOo----------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 19:11:14 -0400
Subject: Re: What have I done??

David,david,david,
 You'll be fine, and, in a few days, exhaustion will catch up with you and
once more, you'll be in Morpheus' arms. Any one of these can be serious
problems, but any one of them is surmountable, if you didn't give too much
for the lightweight in the first place.  That's number 5.
1. The braking problem. Get out your manual, call over any other rovering
friends and get ready to get dirty. This could be as simple as maladjustment,
or as complicated as a seized wheel cylinder or big oil leak on the left (no
brakes, that side), which isn't that complicated. Or pinched off or
obstructed brake line to the left, which could point to foil play.
2. I don't have a clue. Could be any number of things.
3. A big red flag here. Time to study up on diesels. Could be as simple as
timing or as expensive as fuel pump or compression.
4. Replacing the clutch hydraulic components is not too difficult, nor
expensive. Make sure you don't have a pinhole leak in a line, though. The
slooowww fade to the floor indicates fluid leaking somewhere. If there is
none under the pedal nor in the bell housing, and no pinhole in a line, the
master cylinder is kaput, in the area where the little stopper blocks off the
hole to the reservoir justas you press the pedal. Change 'em both and have
done with it.

Nottingham, eh? My family tree is supposed to have roots there, probably
horse thieves and highwaymen, never mind.
Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD engine rebuild under way!
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!! 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 23:30:13 -0400
From: Richard Ruffer <rruffer@world2u.com>
Subject: Re: Hella Lights on D90

Gregspitz@aol.com wrote:
> I need some help for the best way to wire 4 Hella 530 Lights on my > Roll Bar in the front of my D90.

You can easily install the lights yourself.  I put 4 PIAA 40s across the
top of my roll bar a few months ago. The hardest part was drilling out
the holes in the rool bar since the PIAAs have a larger diameter stem
then the Hellas.  I used two switches (1 for fogs, 1 for driving) so I
can't help you on the switching.  For wiring, I ran a hot line from each
light and a common ground line (each light tapped into it) along the bar
to the driver's side.  I wrapped the wires every foot or so with all
weather electrical tape (the kind that sticks to itself without
adhesive).  I also wrapped the wires in black plastic wire tubing (from
Home Depot) which keeps it all very tidy. Where the roll bar bends back
towards the rear, I brought the wires across to the top of the A-pillar
alongside the windshield.  I ran the wires down behind the plastic
molding on the A-pillar and then down behind the dash where the
temperature adjusting switch is. I put two toggle switches under the
dash just to the left of the steering wheel.  As far as the batter
connections, I mounted the relays under the drivers seat in the batter
box.  I ran the lines out the lid and over to the cubby. You can see the
wires, but they are neat and everything stays accessable.  From the
cubby, I ran the wires under the rubber floor mat along the transmission
tunnel, up the fire wall (again behind the rubber mat) then up into the
dash.  Overall, the installation was pretty easy and looks very clean.
The door tops and soft top fit fine. Feel free to e-mail if you have
specific questions.

Rich Ruffer
Morristown, NJ
rruffer@world2u.com
'94 D90

------------------------------

From: ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 96 07:47:03 +0200
Subject: Turbo on 2.25l diesel

Hi all,

I am considering fitting a turbo on my SIII 2.25l diesel & need some advice.

Firstly, It feels like sacrilage to even consider it, but with all the money I 
have spend (& am still going to have to spend) I thought it would be nice to 
drive, say 110kph (comfortably)?  (The car is at the moment 100% original.)

Secondly - is this a good idea?  Will it let me drive that fast(huh?)?  Will it 
give me any troubles?

3) What changes does this require inside the engine?
4) Should I pay someone to do it, or should I do it myself?
5) What should I do to get the right gear-ratio - fit an overdrive or change the 
ratio in the gearbox?
6) I hear its a good idea to get better brakes.  Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iwan Vosloo
Department of Computer Science
University of Pretoria
South Africa

------------------------------

From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de
Subject: Re: Turbo on 2.25l diesel
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 11:04:53 +0200 (METDST)

Hi Iwan

| Firstly, It feels like sacrilage to even consider it, but with all the money I 
| have spend (& am still going to have to spend) I thought it would be nice to 
| drive, say 110kph (comfortably)?  
You'll have to get a greater transmission ratio (eg RR diffs) for that.

| Secondly - is this a good idea? 
Sorry, but I think it isn't. I heard many bad things about the 2.5TD which is
basically a 2.5D with a ad on turbo. Since the 2.5D is a stroked 2.3D with
only minor changes you'll probaly face all the problems like bad turbo lubrication,
too high temperatures ( burning the pistons ) and others resulting from the
higher pressures. These are just things I heard from others, but they were 
enough that I stood away from the TD when I was shopping for a LR last year.
I don't know what the turbo conversion costs, but it may be better to
save some more money and go for a Tdi. There is someone here on the 
list who fitted one into a SIII.

Cheers,
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                 tbr1102@sunmail.lrz-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 10:26:39 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: What have I done??

>Well thats it, I gone and done it!
>I must have been guided by evil spirts or somthing!
>Yes I bought my first Land Rover, Why?

Its an illness...there's no known cure....
>While driving it back I had to break very sharply, as I did I found the
>right front wheel locked up but not the left causing me too slide sideways
>across the road!!
Could be a matter of simple adjustment,or could be a hub oil seal
failure.Yank the N/S brake drum.If there's oil everywhere,you need
a new hub oil seal and a set of new brake shoes.If not,It could be
a siezed wheel cylinder,as someone said,or some clown not adjusting
the brakes properly.
>2
>When changing gear and accelerating hard, there is a loud thud that comes
>from down near the gearbox. This also happens when I release the
>accelerator.
Propshaft U/J?
>3
>When first starting the engine there is what looks like white smoke coming
>out of the exhaust, this seems to pulse on and off for a bit and then
>vanishes.
Worry when it doesnt vanish.....
>4
>If I rest my foot lightly on the clutch pedal, it slowly goes down to the
>floor and then needs a few pumps before it is normal again.
Sounds like the master cylinder.If the reservoir is full,it is,if
the reservoir needs topping up its the slave cyl.
>5
>I have also found that sleeping is now impossible, I can only sit up in bed
>muttering "What have I done!!!"
Solving your problems will leave you so knackered,you'll be able to
sleep on a clothes line.It's all part of the sickness....

Cheers
Mike Rooth
Loughborough
(Its in England,too).

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 19:41:00 +1100
From: m.belik@uws.edu.au (Miroslav Belik)
Subject: Tailgate

Date: Tue, 01 Oct 1996 08:09:42 -0700
From: karlsson@edgenet.net (karlsson)
Subject: Re: Difficult Announcement...

ericz@cloud9.net wrote:
> Dear all,
> As you may know, over the past few months I created Overland Motors as an
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 34 lines)]
> http://www.OverlandMotors.com  Fax: (914) 734-4352  Phone: (914) 734-4333
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------

>>Sorry to hear you're giving it up, but glad it's for a worthy cause.  I'm
>>still looking for a reasonably priced tailgate.

What do you call a tailgate? Is this a rear cross member. I know of a
company on the net that has rear crossmembers for around AU$200. The http
address is

http://www.fwd.com.au/

Give them a go.

Cheers.

SIII Stage 1 1982 3.9D

Miroslav Belik                    Email: M.Belik@UWS.EDU.AU        
UWS, Macarthur               Phone: 018-028-708 or 61 2 823 9445
P.O. Box 555                     FAX:   61 46 203025              
Campbelltown, 2560                                                             
NSW      
Australia.
         

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 19:41:03 +1100
From: m.belik@uws.edu.au (Miroslav Belik)
Subject: Re: Chassis

>I am asking this question because my truck 's chassis has had all outriggers
>replaced and rearcrossmember replaced.  Also some welding had to be done on the
>box sections themself, but nothing serious.  The truck drives very well and the
>a local welding shop said that the chassis was sound and that all the welding
>was professionally done.

>Also some reenforcements where also added, particlulary near the forng spring
>attachment, that under the steering box and near the rear spring hanger, before
>the back wheels.

>Is this normal to other landrover users in this list?

Now about the chassis.
Well let me tell you a story about the first time that I took my LR out in
the bush. I was doing a small biodiversity study and this envolved taking
equipment out into fairly rough country. But nothing that my previous
vehicle couldn't handle. So I happilly seated 9 people plus my self and some
equipment into my truck. I drove into the study site 3 time and out. The
third time out I noticed that the truck drove a little funny, steering was
out and breaks did not work that well. I though that the breaks might have
needed adjustement (as I recently put new shoes on) and did not think much
of the steering problem. Apart from this the car was still cruising at a
100km/h . Anyway when we got back I got and noticed that the truck was
leaning a bit to the left. I looked all around the vehicle, first looking
for collapsed shocks, then cheking the springs and then I glanced at the
rear section of the chassis. The front of rear - sping hanger had completely
collapsed.

I knew that the one on the other was rusty, however the one that collapsed
showed no external rust at all. But when I cut it off, it was obvisouly
rusted right through on the inside. I am now planning to change all the
replacable ouriggers, memebers etc, in the near future and then I going to
put a few litres of fish oil into a plugged up chassis.

I did not think that such damage could be incured to a 1982 model LR,
however when I have look at the sticker on the car showing Cape York on it,
I should not be that suprised and I guess thats why they sell replacement
part for the LR chassis.

MTCW
Mirek
SIII Stage 1 1982 3.9D
Miroslav Belik                    Email: M.Belik@UWS.EDU.AU        
UWS, Macarthur               Phone: 018-028-708 or 61 2 823 9445
P.O. Box 555                     FAX:   61 46 203025              
Campbelltown, 2560                                                             
NSW      
Australia.
         

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 11:51:29 +0200
From: Peter Kutschera <peter@zditf2.arcs.ac.at>
Subject: Re: leaf spring fix

Hello!

Why remove the wheel? If you don't remove the wheel and put some wood
bedween the axle and the frame nothing can fall down and smash you.

I learned this from the list and used it with sucess.

Have Fun
 Peter

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 20:01:56 +1100
From: m.belik@uws.edu.au (Miroslav Belik)
Subject: Re: What have I done??

>1
>While driving it back I had to break very sharply, as I did I found the
>right front wheel locked up but not the left causing me too slide sideways
>across the road!!
This usually means that the break cylinder is not working properly.

>4
>If I rest my foot lightly on the clutch pedal, it slowly goes down to the
>floor and then needs a few pumps before it is normal again.
Again check your slav4e cylinder and master cylinder, ther rubbers in the
slave might need replacing. I recently changed my master and reconditioned
my slave.

>5
>I have also found that sleeping is now impossible, I can only sit up in bed
>muttering "What have I done!!!"
The noise whilst driving will soon num these thought out off existance.

Bye.
SIII Stage 1 1982 3.9D
Miroslav Belik                    Email: M.Belik@UWS.EDU.AU        
UWS, Macarthur               Phone: 018-028-708 or 61 2 823 9445
P.O. Box 555                     FAX:   61 46 203025              
Campbelltown, 2560                                                             
NSW      
Australia.
         

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: What have I done??
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 96 11:52:24 BST

> >While driving it back I had to break very sharply, as I did I found the
> >right front wheel locked up but not the left causing me too slide sideways
> >across the road!!
> This usually means that the break cylinder is not working properly.

When one of mine failed, I found the brakes merely made the steering
pull. Could be a "fundamental" failure I guess. If you have to change the
cylinders, be ready for seized pipes and nipples.

 
> >4
> >If I rest my foot lightly on the clutch pedal, it slowly goes down to the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> slave might need replacing. I recently changed my master and reconditioned
> my slave.

Sounds like a leak to me. My clutch doesn't work, but I think its just worn.
 
> >5
> >I have also found that sleeping is now impossible, I can only sit up in bed
> >muttering "What have I done!!!"
> The noise whilst driving will soon num these thought out off existance.

When I first read this, I thought it was referring to sleeping in the Landy.
I haven't managed it, but I know a lass who has (I was busy driving...).
Sound proofing? Comfy interior?  Bah humbug!

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

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