[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | "Benjamin G. Newman,MD" | 10 | Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest |
2 | "johnsonm (wk)" [johnson | 21 | Re: brakes (double pump syndrome) |
3 | "Niel J. P. Fagan" [NF@o | 19 | Re: SI Questions |
4 | lopezba@atnet.at | 24 | Re: Steering relay |
5 | Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D | 20 | Comparative Heights |
6 | twakeman@scruznet.com (T | 28 | Series @ high altitude |
7 | "johnsonm (wk)" [johnson | 19 | Re: Steering relay |
8 | Ron Franklin [oldhaven@b | 56 | [not specified] |
9 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 11 | Re: Downeast photo... |
10 | bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Boh | 29 | RE: Chassis questions |
11 | rscholl@lib.com | 12 | Vacation |
12 | lopezba@atnet.at | 18 | Re: Bronze Green |
13 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 23 | Re: Chassis questions |
14 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 12 | Mid Atlantique Where? |
15 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 14 | Re: Mid Atlantique Where? |
16 | lopezba@atnet.at | 40 | Re: Brake pumping + Chassis |
17 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 17 | Re: Mid Atlantique Where? |
18 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 36 | Re: Brake pumping + Chassis |
19 | "johnsonm (wk)" [johnson | 15 | Re: Steering relay |
20 | Russell U Wilson [ruwst+ | 15 | Re: Comparative Heights |
21 | QROVER80@aol.com | 10 | Re: Mid Atlantique Where? |
22 | jimallen@onlinecol.com | 66 | Series @ high altitude |
23 | William Caloccia [calocc | 18 | [not specified] |
24 | "Mr Ian Stuart" [Ian.Stu | 19 | Re: I need a new title.... |
25 | QROVER80@aol.com | 13 | Roav Directions |
26 | murraycm@bc.edu | 21 | Free-Wheeling Hubs |
27 | M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mik | 10 | Re: Downeast photo... |
28 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 10 | Re: I need a new title.... |
29 | pwakefie@esis.esrin.esa. | 31 | A subject close to my heart |
30 | QROVER80@aol.com | 11 | Re: Downeast photo... |
31 | jouster@rocket.com (John | 27 | Free-Wheel hub opinion |
32 | Harincar@mooregs.com (Ti | 41 | Insurance |
33 | Gregspitz@aol.com | 7 | Re: I need a new title.... |
34 | Jeremy Bartlett [bartlet | 14 | XCL Equivalents? - Son of Tire Thread |
35 | Jeremy Bartlett [bartlet | 40 | Erratic Speedometer Problem |
36 | jouster@rocket.com (John | 15 | beneath the planet of XCLs |
37 | doug.forehand@Eng.Sun.CO | 27 | Re: XCL Equivalents? - Son of Tire Thread |
38 | ASFCO@aol.com | 12 | Re: I need a new title.... |
39 | Jeremy Bartlett [bartlet | 18 | Re: XCL Equivalents? - Son of Tire Thread |
40 | Jeremy Bartlett [bartlet | 32 | Re: beneath the planet of XCLs |
41 | "S. Vels" [svels@mail-se | 16 | Re: XCL Equivalents? - Son of Tire Thread |
42 | Tom Spoto [tspoto@az.com | 22 | Re: Free-Wheeling Hubs |
43 | 12/4/95 [rsloan@titan.li | 29 | T-boned |
44 | "David Lee" [DJFLee@msn. | 23 | RE: Hi-Lift Jack |
45 | "D.A.T. S.A." [jtge@guat | 11 | Jon R. Haskell "El Peten" |
46 | "D.A.T. S.A." [jtge@guat | 11 | Jon R. Haskell "El Peten" |
47 | landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mi | 19 | Re: Downeast photo... |
48 | landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mi | 19 | Re: I need a new title.... |
49 | Deezilbob@aol.com | 8 | Mid-AtlanticRally |
50 | "M. ABERCROMBIE" [maa081 | 13 | Re: Downeast photo... |
51 | Allan Smith [smitha@cand | 18 | rubber grease |
52 | Jeremy J Bartlett [Bartl | 11 | XCL Input |
53 | faurecm@halcyon.com (C. | 15 | Re: What oil in Rangie tranfer case? |
54 | "P Burgers" [PBURGERS@CP | 18 | Re: brakes (double pump syndrome) |
55 | Glenn_Rees@PARLON2.CCMAI | 33 | Re: Questions for real specialist S I owners |
56 | "Jens Vesterdahl" [jve@p | 33 | Re: brakes |
57 | M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mik | 11 | Re: Downeast photo... |
58 | M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mik | 8 | Re: I need a new title.... |
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 07:32:16 -0500 From: "Benjamin G. Newman,MD" <medone@iag.net> Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest Does anyone have experience with RENEWED TRADITIONS out of Atlanta Ga.,importer of refuburished and remanufactured Classic Series Land Rovers.If so would you please share it eith me. Thanks, Benjamin G. Newman ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 08:09:53 -0400 From: "johnsonm (wk)" <johnsonm@borg.com> Subject: Re: brakes (double pump syndrome) Geoffrey Said wrote: > From a while ago I am feeling the brake pedal sloppy. The landrover brakes but > the pedal is depressing much more than it was before. The strang thing is that [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)] > Geoffrey > 109" Series 3 diesel. Everyone has double pump syndrome from time to time. Sounds like to me you need to adjust the break shoe tentioners ( I think they're called ). There is a half inch bolt head on the backside of the break back plate. Tighten this up one notch at a time till you get the right feel. -- Mike Johnson 74 SIII 88 (Chester) 73 SIII 88 (Jezabel) http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Niel J. P. Fagan" <NF@orc.soton.ac.uk> Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 13:24:15 GMT Subject: Re: SI Questions 1. Black plastic dipped, 2. Without ref. to manual, will check tonight, a length of angle steel 50mmx50mmx600mm long ish, drilled with lots of holes for implements to be bolted on to, bolted to the rear cross member. For normal towing make up a plate and bolt direct to the rear member with your hitch attached. >. Rgds Niel Views expressed are personal and not those of the University, unless otherwise & expressly stated. ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 14:49:01 +0100 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: Re: Steering relay Franz from Rosenheim wrote: -Hi folks, -a nonnetted friend with a 1973 SIII 109 phoned me yesterday. He -has great problems to get out his steering relais (this thing -sticking in the front crossmember). The manual says pull it up, -maybe with the help of a rubber hammer. He has tried even some -more brutal methods like a 3kg hammer and a jack, but it's still -in place :-{ Anyone got an idea? Normally rather unemotional Lindsay Porter says: A well rusted in relay will be *a swine* to remove because of the accumulation of corrosion and dirt between relay body and chassis. Then he describes using a jack to push out the relay, but I guess your neighbour already did that. I guess this calls fro patience, brute force and lots of wd40! Good luck Peter Hirsch SI 107in S/W Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1) ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA> Subject: Comparative Heights Date: Thu, 03 Oct 96 09:16:00 DST > >As for the name of the 14? year old, > > that can be supplied by either: Spencer, Eric Z., or Jeff Berg... [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] > notebook. > And why am I the only one fully named? I'm the innocent bystander... 14? Jeff, come on man. Just because she is the same height as you does NOT make it O.K. Russ W. But she was taller Trevor E ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 06:17:17 -0700 From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Subject: Series @ high altitude This is a question for those of you series owners who have 2-1/4L petrol engined series Land Rovers and frequently spend time driving hills above 6 thousand feet. And have Rochester carbs, I live at sea level and set my distributer timing per the manual (3ish deg BTDC). I have a 48 main jet on the Rochester. When I drive at high altitudes the car has a hard time idling and looses about 3/4 of its abundant HP, This leaves me in first gear going up some paved hills and makes getting stuck off roading much easier. What do you do to adjust timing and the carb for high altitudes? Bigger jet? retard timing? Is there a rule of thumb per thousand feet? I drive between 0 and 8 or 9 thousand feet and would like to take a little less time looking at scenery at the higher altitudes. Experienced advice would be most welcome. TeriAnn twakeman@scruznet.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 09:19:56 -0400 From: "johnsonm (wk)" <johnsonm@borg.com> Subject: Re: Steering relay lopezba@atnet.at wrote: > Franz from Rosenheim wrote: > -Hi folks, [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] > -more brutal methods like a 3kg hammer and a jack, but it's still > -in place :-{ Anyone got an idea? I just did the very operation, I used a crows foot and a wrench. Then applied a large amount of never-seize to it when I put it back on. -- Mike Johnson 74 SIII 88 (Chester) 73 SIII 88 (Jezabel) http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Fwd: Re: Steering relay removal Date: Thu, 03 Oct 96 09:38:31 -0500 From: Ron Franklin <oldhaven@biddeford.com> -- [ From: Ron Franklin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] -- Sorry for those of you who saw this in Jan but maybe it will help Franz P. with his relay removal. ------- FORWARD, Original message follows ------- Date: Tuesday, 30-Jan-96 08:24 AM From: Ron Franklin \ Internet: (oldhaven@biddeford.com) To: Land-Rover-Owner@uk.stratus.com \ Internet: (land-rover-owner@uk.stratus. com) The steering on my old beast had about 15 degrees of play due to a combination of worn out rod ends and wear in the splines of the relay and both relay arms. (Be sure to keep the pinch bolts on these arms tight or the movement will ruin the splines). The arms and rod ends were easy, but the relay could have been welded in and no amount of hammering, penetrating oil or heat caused even the slightest movement. Even jacking the vehicle up using the relay shaft so the weight of the front end was on the relay didn't work. I finally had to remove the grill and radiator and build a fixture involving bars on top of the frame drilled to take 3/4 inch threaded rod. The rods went down along the sides of the crossmember and connected to another bar against the relay shaft, using spacer blocks as necessary. by tightening nuts on the bottom of the lower bar I was able to put enough pressure on the relay to cause the top of the crossmember to start to distort. At that point I got out the hammer and managed to get the thing to move about 1/32 of an inch, enough to make a beer seem in order. From then on it was a slow process of tighten, hammer, tighten, hammer, beer....going on for about 3 hours. When the relay had moved high enough to get it above the top mounting flanges I was able top use a large drift and hammer to turn it back and forth in its socket by banging on the bosses for the bolts. It finally came out, but fought up to the last 1/2 inch. What had been holding it was 29 years of rust which had expanded the diameter of the relay enough to effectively make it an interference fit in its bore. The new relay dropped right in. Have fun. -- Ron Franklin Bowdoin, Maine, USA ------- FORWARD, End of original message ------- -- Ron Franklin Bowdoin, Maine, USA ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 09:44:11 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: Re: Downeast photo... On Wed, 2 Oct 1996 ericz@cloud9.net wrote: > Or how about Mike "PERKY!" L. ? Oh yeah, forgot about perky... :-) Should also mention that there were a pair of them, the second turning 16 the next day... ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers) Subject: RE: Chassis questions Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 15:47:18 +-100 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Geoffrey Said[SMTP:Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt] wrote: Q:Do outriggers often get cut off and replaced? A:Yes Q:Is the last crossmember also prone to rust? A:Yes Q:When a chassis is beyond help and cannot be repaired? A:It is possible to buy a complete new chassis, in black or galvanized This is the most common problem in countries where the roads are covered with salt during the winter. Happy Rovering Bent Boehlers 110" 1983 V8, on its second set of outriggers and rear crossmember. ------ =_NextPart_000_01BBB142.2A1074A0 ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 96 09:53:58 EST From: rscholl@lib.com Subject: Vacation You haven't lost a new member, I am unsubscribing for a week while I 4-wheel through the woods of Maine. Don't want mail returned to bother you guys. Nice chatting and see you 10/14. rfs rscholl@lib.com 1970 SIIa 88" DD ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 15:57:10 +0100 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: Re: Bronze Green Ian Harper was concerned about Bronze Green. I don't know whether this helps, but colour codes for Bronze Green are: Herberts 0428 ICI P030 2651 Needless to say the outside of your vehicle has been exposed to the elements and to ultraviolet light for some years, so the paint will have changed to some degree. If you want to paint only parts, have a panel computer analyzed and a batch of paint mixed to match. In most cases, the original paint will only be useable for a total respray. Regards Peter Hirsch SI 107in S/W Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1) ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 10:01:55 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: Re: Chassis questions On Thu, 3 Oct 1996, Geoffrey Said wrote: > Do outriggers often get cut off and replaced? >. Often? No... Get cut off and replaced? Yes. > Is the last crossmember also prone to rust? >. Rear crossmember is usually toast up here... Complicated design that catches all the water and salt. Buy one with extensions (makes it easier it install, stronger) and gon't bother with galvanised. > When a chassis is beyond help and cannot be repaired? >. You phone up England, RN ABP BP, etc. and buy a new one which is galvanised... Rgds, ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 96 10:08:56 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Subject: Mid Atlantique Where? So, I hate to ask a REALLY stupid question...but, does anybody have directions to the Mid Atlantic? I'm pretty sure I've got em in last years newsletter, nut I want to make sure... Tanks! Dave b. ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Mid Atlantique Where? Date: Thu, 3 Oct 96 15:16:45 BST > So, I hate to ask a REALLY stupid question...but, > does anybody have directions to the Mid Atlantic? Its sort of between Bermuda, Azores, and Ascension Is... (sorry, someone had to say it) Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR - but that would be stating the obvious) ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 15:57:54 +0100 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: Re: Brake pumping + Chassis Geoffrey Said said: >From a while ago I am feeling the brake pedal sloppy. The landrover brakes but >the pedal is depressing much more than it was before. The strang thing is that >when the pedal is slightly depressed, released and then pressed again it feels >as it was normal i.e good brake feeling without the pedal going down too much. >I have also checked the brake oil level and is not decreasing. At first I that >that a wheel cylinder must be leaking but if so the oil would decrease and I >dont think that after the first depress the pedal will get normal. >Any suggestions on what the cause might be? Geoffrey, sounds like somehow or other air got into your system. Try bleeding your brakes, that is simple and cheap, except if your bleed nipples are corroded to the wheel cylinders; they will probably shear then, and you will have to get a new cylinder. Should not be a problem in Malta, from what I understand. If you need any info on the bleeding process, let me know. I've had very good success with a contraption called Eezi-Bleed, btw, which allows you to bleed your brakes without an assistent, and also provides a steady stream of brake fluid through your system, which gets rid of stubborn airpockets. Less than ten gbp at Halfords, if that helps. About the chassis: Outriggers do get exchanged quite routinely. Rear crossmembers are prone to rust. If the chassis is beyond being saved, get a new one from the UK and do a frame-over. Not *too* complicated, and leaves you with a sense of accomplishment, very good knowledge of every component of your vehicle, a large collection of tools, skinned knuckles and empty pockets. Good luck Peter Hirsch SI 107in S/W Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1) ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 10:31:52 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: Re: Mid Atlantique Where? On Thu, 3 Oct 1996, Richard Marsden wrote: > > So, I hate to ask a REALLY stupid question...but, > > does anybody have directions to the Mid Atlantic? > Its sort of between Bermuda, Azores, and Ascension Is... The annual rally of the Sargasso Sea Sea-Rover Club, or Float- Rover (the pontooned version of the special produced by Supermarine and Messerschmidt with fore and aft pto drive propellors) Generally taking place somewhere off the coast of Bermuda, within binocular range of the babes on the pink beaches. See anti-faq for details on the Sea-Rover. ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Brake pumping + Chassis Date: Thu, 3 Oct 96 15:36:36 BST > >From a while ago I am feeling the brake pedal sloppy. The landrover brakes > but [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)] > >that a wheel cylinder must be leaking but if so the oil would decrease and I > >dont think that after the first depress the pedal will get normal. > >Any suggestions on what the cause might be? > Geoffrey, sounds like somehow or other air got into your system. Try > bleeding your brakes, that is simple and cheap, except if your bleed nipples [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] > steady stream of brake fluid through your system, which gets rid of stubborn > airpockets. Less than ten gbp at Halfords, if that helps. Yep, Eezibleed is well recommended. Make sure you get this - it has a bottle and various bits of piping - and not something similar (I had a pipe contraction with valve but it was next to useless - its now been cannibalised to add to the Eezibleed!). If you don't have air in the system, it could be mud in your brake drums. ATM my brakes are similar to how you describe, but I've lost no fluid. Also, it occurred quite suddenly whilst off-roading. A number of people have told me that I've almost certainly got mud in the drums. If I have time (moving house) I'll be replacing my hub seals this weekend, and will clean my brakes and drums at the same time. Seized nipples: Been there, done that. My rear ones still are, so I'm slowly stocking up on rear brake bits, ready for re-doing them. Then the whole brake system will be maintainable and bleedable on *my* terms! Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR). ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 10:39:42 -0400 From: "johnsonm (wk)" <johnsonm@borg.com> Subject: Re: Steering relay johnsonm (wk) wrote with foot in mouth: > I just did the very operation, I used a crows foot and a wrench. Then > applied a large amount of never-seize to it when I put it back on. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > 73 SIII 88 (Jezabel) > http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm After reading I see you meant removing the relay itself, I was refering to the removal of the arms. THUWEE get that foot out of here... ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 10:44:19 -0400 (EDT) From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu> Subject: Re: Comparative Heights On Thu, 3 Oct 1996, Easton Trevor wrote: > > >As for the name of the 14? year old, [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)] > But she was taller > Trevor E I have a thing for tallish women myself but........ Russ W. ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: QROVER80@aol.com Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 10:51:42 -0400 Subject: Re: Mid Atlantique Where? That must be one hell of a wading kit............ Do you want to go down with US? Safety/spare parts in Numbers Leaving Fri Aft/eve Quintin Aspin ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com Date: 3 Oct 1996 08:24:48 MDT Subject: Series @ high altitude LA>This is a question for those of you series owners who have 2-1/4L petrol LA>engined series Land Rovers and frequently spend time driving hills above 6 LA>thousand feet. And have Rochester carbs, LA>I live at sea level and set my distributer timing per the manual (3ish deg LA>BTDC). I have a 48 main jet on the Rochester. LA>When I drive at high altitudes the car has a hard time idling and looses LA>about 3/4 of its abundant HP, This leaves me in first gear going up some LA>paved hills and makes getting stuck off roading much easier. LA>What do you do to adjust timing and the carb for high altitudes? Bigger LA>jet? retard timing? LA>Is there a rule of thumb per thousand feet? I drive between 0 and 8 or 9 LA>thousand feet and would like to take a little less time looking at scenery LA>at the higher altitudes. LA>Experienced advice would be most welcome. LA>TeriAnn LA>twakeman@scruznet.com TeriAnn, Problems at altitude come with the territory. It's difficult to have a vehicle set up for sea level and run good at altitude - or vice versa. There are, however, some tuning tips. Step one is to advance your ignition timing one degree for every 1500 feet of altitude. Next, when you get up there, readjust your idle speed and mixture just as you would at sea level. Bear in mind that the vehcile will run richer at higher altitude. In case you don't know about the carb adjustment, first set your idle speed where you like it (700rpm roughly) then screw the mixture adjustment in (clockwise) until the engine starts to lean roll (run rough). The turn the screw clockwise until it smooths out. If you have a tach, play with the mixture until you get the highest idle rpm. Lastly reset the idle speed a final time. If you don't mind frankness, the Rochester may not be your best carb choice. Of course, there are several Rochesters and some are better than others. The best one is the pre-66 model B with a manual choke. These came on 235cid truck engines. The Throttle bore will be approximately 1.5" in diameter (thats the diameter where the throttle plate is at the botton of the carb - you'll need to remove it to measure).The best "B" will also have a tall top cover(tall at the point where the cover mates to the float bowl) and it should have a power valve that look like a missile and not like a needle. You already have the number 48 main jet. My opinion is that all the Rochesters are a bit too large for the 2.25 and this would make your altitude problemsworse. Going one or two steps smaller on the main jet above 6000 feet should help - if you don't mind swapping jets every time. I'd recommend the Zenith for all around use on a stock engine. Properly set up, it's a great carb. As an aside, you lose approximately 40% of your power going to 10,000 feet. A good running 2.25 (high compression) makes 65hp on a dyno. That leaves you with 39 to play with! Good luck! Jim ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: I need a new title.... Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 10:52:35 -0400 From: William Caloccia <caloccia@OpenMarket.com> We're changing phones here at work, so we get new business cards, and we get to put down the titles... Any suggestions ? Cheers, Bill httP://www.Senie.com/billc/ caloccia@OpenMaRket.com http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/ R 1 3 2wd H D +--|--| o | L 3 Land Rovers First 2 4 4wd L | 2 because '63 SIIa RHD 88" H 1 Land Rovers Last 793-PTA '90 RR County ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk> Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 16:15:13 +0000 Subject: Re: I need a new title.... Quoting William Caloccia, from 3 Oct 96 > We're changing phones here at work, so we get new business cards, and we > get to put down the titles... > Any suggestions ? Communications Facilitator ? ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/> However strong my opinions are, they are mine and no-one elses. ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: QROVER80@aol.com Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 11:48:15 -0400 Subject: Roav Directions To all those who need directions to the ROAV Rally Translated from the ROAV.. Penlan farm is on County rd 671 approx two mi west of US rt 15 The turn is about six mi south of the James River Bridge; look for the yellow and green signs. Q note, It seems to be about 30 miles south of Charlottsville VA ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 11:58:10 +0000 From: murraycm@bc.edu Subject: Free-Wheeling Hubs Hello All! I'm thinking about fitting some f.w. hubs on my '64 88. I have heard that this is: a) more trouble than its worth and b) a huge improvement. any comments defending these statements? part numbers? thanks!!! chris ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 16:51:19 +0000 From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Subject: Re: Downeast photo... As for the name of the 14? year old, > that can be supplied by either: Spencer, Eric Z., or Jeff Berg... > :-) 14?....Big girl for her age..:-) Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 12:03:21 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: Re: I need a new title.... On Thu, 3 Oct 1996, William Caloccia wrote: > Any suggestions ? "Majordomo" :-) ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 18:17:48 +0200 From: pwakefie@esis.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield - System Manager (SERCO) X492) Subject: A subject close to my heart Hi everyone, (sorry about no LR content - please forgive this one time) I am reading with interest the traffic light/cannot see them threads > From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov> > Subject: re: Green=go, Red=stop (STOOOPP !!!), yellow=go faster! [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] > Those friendly folks behind you will be quite happy to let you when the > light changes with a happy toot of their horn. Here (in Rome) if you do not move off the microsecond the light changes to green you will certainly receive a "happy toot of the horn" !!! if not from the entire line of vehicles behind ! This rule does not apply at night where if you actually show signs of stopping at a red light you will be roundly abused and overtaken (through the red light) The rule here appears to be, when approaching traffic lights (especially if they have just changed to green) treat them like you would a "T" junction (or an unexploded bomb) Regards, Paul. PS, Do I hold the record for the furthest separation from their LR (~1400 miles) ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: QROVER80@aol.com Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 12:16:46 -0400 Subject: Re: Downeast photo... > :-) 14?....Big girl for her age..:-) Mike Rooth Thats exactly what Eric said :-) Quintin ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 09:29:26 -0700 From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout) Subject: Free-Wheel hub opinion chris asks: >I'm thinking about fitting some f.w. hubs on my '64 88. I have heard that this >is: [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > and >b) a huge improvement. Chris, et al: IMHO: hubs are nice to be able to unlock on long highway trips, gaining about 1-2mpg, slightly "quieter" (if that term even applies to series vehicles without an acoustikit), and slightly faster. I leave mine locked the rest of the time to insure lubrication of the swivel pins. Warn hubs were on the vehicle and have been trouble free for several hundred thousand miles. I have replaced the sph seals once, but have had to do absolutely no other work on them. (I had to replace the front and rear diffs immediately after the purchase due to rust on the ring gears where they were not immersed in oil from sitting for 5 years). Bottom line: if you don't drive much on the highway, keep it simple. '64 109 diesel 5-door (Safari-SoGoodi) 465,000 miles on the few remaining original parts. jouster@earth.rocket.com (John Ousterhout) ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS) Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 11:34:23 -0500 Subject: Insurance Just something to add to the insurance conversation. My company is allstate, and they have my vehicle correctly listed as a '66 LR, not RR or something. My policy states that it is for "recreational use only" which means that I don't use it to commute regularly and put less than 5K miles on it per year. I do drive it to work when its nice. I asked my agent if that meant I could *never* drive it to work, and he said, no not never, but it was kind of grey. Re: appraisals. I asked my agent specifically about appraisal and "replacement value" policies. He told me that allstates position is that the policy *is* basically replacement value - i.e. they'd pay what the vehicle was worth on the market if they were to "total" it out, as long as I could prove it with receipts, photos, etc. He cautioned me to avoid appraisal policies because they often don't reflect the actual value of the car. If you get your rover appraised for $7,500, then put a galvanized frame under it, and it gets wiped out before you get a new appraisal, your screwed. They'll pay the value on the policy PERIOD. No matter how much crying you do. So if you're into annual appraisals, than maybe that would work, or if in the case of OVLR and you ins. company accepts the clubs appraisals, you could have it done fairly often. But the cost of the policy is going to be reflected in the appraisal value. I don't remember the exact cost of my policy, but I suppose it doesn't really matter since the cost is based more on where you live than how you drive. Tim --- tim harincar harincar@mooregs.com '66 IIa 88 SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Gregspitz@aol.com Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 14:19:41 -0400 Subject: Re: I need a new title.... Land Rover Liason.....L.R.L. ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 12:04:38 -0700 From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Subject: XCL Equivalents? - Son of Tire Thread I must admit I've not really followed much of the tire threads and now find myself asking a tire question. Does anyone know of a currently produced tire available in the US that is a close match to the Michelin XCL? Doesn't Dunlop produce something? cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 12:43:08 -0700 From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Subject: Erratic Speedometer Problem One of the problems revealed on Mathilda's (109 SIIA SW) latest test run is an erratic speedometer problem. I just replaced the speedo cable with a new unit which is routed as close as I can judgeto where the original cable ran. I have no idea if the speedometer was originally functioning or not since it was non-op when I purchased the vehicle. With the new cable installed the speedometer will now sometimes read what seems a reasonably accurate value (20 to 30 mph), but will occasionally fluctuate wildly, occasionally go all the way clockwise and peg on the reverse side of the 0mph pin ( .. honest officer I was only doing 25 :) ). Sometimes the unit will read 20 or so at a stop (yes the clutch is out and the prop. shafts are there :) ). I think the most erratic behavior is during acceleration or deceleration, but I need to check this. Given the new cable, which I'm pretty sure is correctly installed and engaged, I'm wondering what the problem might be. I did rebuild the transmission and shimmed/torqued the output following instructions, so I don't think (I hope) that the problem's in the speedo-transmission worm gear area. Does anyone know if this is a characteristic of failed speedometers (my suspicion) or does the problem probably lie elsewhere? I'll probably pull the speedo cable at the panel and drive around a bit with it open to watch its behavior. Hopefully, this will isolate which component the problem lies in. cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 12:58:56 -0700 From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout) Subject: beneath the planet of XCLs My local Michelin dealer says he can still get XC's from the warehouse in Reno. These are listed in his Off-Road Equipment catalog under roadgraders. 16-inch is the SMALLEST size listed. They are not USDOT approved, but the tread pattern is the same as the XCL. $129 +tax, shipping, etc. Be warned, XCL's are very soft compound and wear out quickly on the road (So avoid roads?), and don't do as well in snow as others. '64 109 diesel 5-door (Safari-SoGoodi) 465,000 miles on the few remaining original parts. jouster@earth.rocket.com (John Ousterhout) ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 12:49:30 -0700 From: doug.forehand@Eng.Sun.COM (Douglas W. Forehand) Subject: Re: XCL Equivalents? - Son of Tire Thread > From bens@unix.off-road.com Thu Oct 3 12:27:24 1996 > I must admit I've not really followed much of the tire [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > in the US that is a close match to the Michelin XCL? > Doesn't Dunlop produce something? If you're interested in the real thing, Greg at Safari Guard has a couple of sets of XCLs. I even have a picture of Simba with a set on. It seems Greg wanted to see how the Disco performed on his test track with XCLs, so after he finished all the work on my car he mounted up a set a drove it around his track. He claims they worked great. Little or no wheel spin in the deep dust. My preferance is for wider tires (265/75R16 Mud Terrains) since rock crawling is the most likely senario where I'll be needing traction. Road noise is also an issue with the XCL's; worse than the Mud Terrains I'm told. -Doug ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ASFCO@aol.com Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 15:51:36 -0400 Subject: Re: I need a new title.... In a message dated 96-10-03 12:07:06 EDT, you write: >On Thu, 3 Oct 1996, William Caloccia wrote: Playground Manager/ Supervisor P.M.S. ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 13:32:50 -0700 From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Subject: Re: XCL Equivalents? - Son of Tire Thread Douglas W. Forehand wrote: snip > Road noise is also an issue with the XCL's; worse than the > Mud Terrains I'm told. > -Doug Thanks for the info. Since I wouldn't be using such for street tires (that's what the 60,000 Mud Terrains are for :) ) noise wouldn't be an issue. cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 13:42:17 -0700 From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Subject: Re: beneath the planet of XCLs John Ousterhout wrote: > My local Michelin dealer says he can still get XC's from the warehouse in > Reno. These are listed in his Off-Road Equipment catalog under roadgraders. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] > XCL's are very soft compound and wear out quickly on the road (So avoid > roads?), and don't do as well in snow as others. Interesting. The Michelin dealers I contacted said it was unavailable and hadn't been made in the last 7 years - probably true as far as "street tires" go. Of course, most dealers know diddly about their products. For example: "No the XCL isn't available, we do have the LTX which is a good substitute"... What's the tread pattern? "Uh.." How aggressive is it? ... "Pretty good... it's a nice quiet All Terrain tire"... Um.. I currently run Mud Terrains and was looking for something more aggressive. "More aggressive than Mud Terrains?!"... Well thanks... Not to far from all the BFG dealers who told me there was no such thing as the Trac-Edge. I wonder what issues there might be in the sale of non DOT tires to non-commercial customers. Maybe I'll look into this and post if I discover anything. cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "S. Vels" <svels@mail-server.dk-online.dk> Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 22:43:00 +0001 Subject: Re: XCL Equivalents? - Son of Tire Thread > Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 12:04:38 -0700 > From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> > Does anyone know of a currently produced tire available > in the US that is a close match to the Michelin XCL? Check the pattern on the Goodyear G42. Similar but bidirectional. rgds sv ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 14:25:43 -0700 (PDT) From: Tom Spoto <tspoto@az.com> Subject: Re: Free-Wheeling Hubs On this multiple choice I pick b) a huge improvement my $.02 Tom Spoto 2 x 72 '88's' Warn Hubs on both 1 x 67 '88' AVM Hubs On Thu, 3 Oct 1996 murraycm@bc.edu wrote: > To change subscription write to: M ajordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net > Hello All! [ truncated by lro-digester (was 27 lines)] > part numbers? > thanks!!! > chris ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 17:22:07 -0400 (EDT) From: 12/4/95 <rsloan@titan.liunet.edu> Subject: T-boned I tested my red light viewing technique and, well, with some adjustment, the light is reflected in the hood, but I thought of something even better. Use of a small plastic mirror is much easier to find the appropriate angle with, otherwise you've got to contort and adjust your seat, almost so it's quite pointless and far easier just to stoop and look under, unless you're a swami and used to contorting. I happen to agree with you Bill. A healthy pause before negotiating your forward move is an excellant suggestion. Many people around me also feel that a red light, or light ready to turn red are not mandatory stops but are quite inconvenient and are at their discretion. I've driven through red lights but only after being stopped at them and when it's very late at night. There is one particular light at the entrance to my development that will not change. I've sat there for five minutes once without a soul in sight except for the cop across the street. Eventually, after the series of changes went through and I got skipped he was nice enough to wave me through. Must have been an LRO. Running a red light is assinine. I enjoy watching figure eight racing but would never participate in it, and that's what running red lights is like. Rich D90 ------------------------------[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 96 23:07:24 UT From: "David Lee" <DJFLee@msn.com> Subject: RE: Hi-Lift Jack Andy Woodward writes: >This is a perfectly normal US-UK real world exchange rate. In general >you takee the US price. Change the dollar sign to a pund sign and >that's teh UK price. If there is a discrepancy, the UK price will be >even more expensive >:-[ You are right mate! although I thought an exchange rate was where you take a sum in one currency and convert it to the same value in another. Not in the real world though. I was in the US last spring and compared prices on a Gran Cherokee Limited (just idle curiosity I assure you!) 30,000 dollars against 30,000 pounds in the UK, and people over here keep going on about what good value it is! :-{ Dave Lee SIII 109 Safari (1500 pounds and proud of it) Triumph TR2 Kinloss, Scotland ------------------------------[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "D.A.T. S.A." <jtge@guate.net> Subject: Jon R. Haskell "El Peten" Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 16:23:22 -0600 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 IAA= ------ =_NextPart_000_01BBB147.620AF420 ------------------------------[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "D.A.T. S.A." <jtge@guate.net> Subject: Jon R. Haskell "El Peten" Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 16:16:16 -0600 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 IAA= ------ =_NextPart_000_01BBB147.5DD2A1A0 ------------------------------[ <- Message 47 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 19:23:40 -0400 From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice) Subject: Re: Downeast photo... Yer gettin things mixed up a bit, mate. >> Or how about Mike "PERKY!" L. ? > Oh yeah, forgot about perky... :-) Should also mention that there > were a pair of them, the second turning 16 the next day... Perky was at Stowe. The young babettes ("Does anyone else want to be jacked up?" - she said that, hosest!) were in Maine. You really got to ask Zipkin, Berg, Spenny or even Dixon about them - although Dixon was blotto through most of it. Cheers Mike ------------------------------[ <- Message 48 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 19:23:38 -0400 From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice) Subject: Re: I need a new title.... Bill Caloccia sez... >We're changing phones here at work, so we get new business cards, and >we get to put down the titles... >Any suggestions ? William Caloccia, BGSTM (the Big Guy who Snores Too Much) Heh,heh,heh.. Cheers Mike ------------------------------[ <- Message 49 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Deezilbob@aol.com Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 21:35:50 -0400 Subject: Mid-AtlanticRally heading out to the mid-atlantic rally tonight, hope that everyone who attends will enjoy themselves and arrives safely, see y'all there....d.b. ------------------------------[ <- Message 50 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 22:04:05 -0400 (EDT) From: "M. ABERCROMBIE" <maa0818@ritvax.isc.rit.edu> Subject: Re: Downeast photo... At 07:23 PM 10/3/96 -0400, you wrote: >Yer gettin things mixed up a bit, mate. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)] >even Dixon about them - although Dixon was blotto through most of it. >Cheers >Mike Was this photo that has been talked about so much taken in Owles Head? ------------------------------[ <- Message 51 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 22:21:06 -0500 From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc> Subject: rubber grease Hi all - sorry, but this clutch stuff just won't go away. When filling a slave cylinder dust cover with a *suitable rubber grease*, what is an appropriate product that NAPA would know about? TIA Allan Allan Smith Caribbean Natural Resources Institute Vieux Fort St. Lucia, West Indies. Tel +(758) 454 6060 Fax +(758) 454 5188 ------------------------------[ <- Message 52 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 22:11:18 -0700 From: Jeremy J Bartlett <Bartlett@slip.net> Subject: XCL Input Thanks to one and all for the input so far. I'll be following up on all the useful hints. cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 53 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 22:47:18 -0700 From: faurecm@halcyon.com (C. Marin Faure) Subject: Re: What oil in Rangie tranfer case? The lubricant used in the transfer case of my 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE equipped with the automatic transmission is Dexron IID automatic transmission fluid, the same fluid that is used in the transmission. According to the chart in my Range Rover factory service manual, the LT230 transfer case uses EP 80 or EP 90 gear oil. The Borg Warner transfer case uses Dexron IID. Marin Faure 1973 LR Series III 88 1991 RR Vogue SE ------------------------------[ <- Message 54 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "P Burgers" <PBURGERS@CPLS.WCAPE.GOV.ZA> Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 08:04:30 +0200 Subject: Re: brakes (double pump syndrome) > Everyone has double pump syndrome from time to time. Sounds like to me > you need to adjust the break shoe tentioners ( I think they're called > ). There is a half inch bolt head on the backside of the break back > plate. Tighten this up one notch at a time till you get the right feel. Have you checked that the master cylinder plunger & seals are ok? Corrosion in the master cylinder, particularly in the single cylinder Centre valve type can lead to this as well Peter B. SIII Chev 4.1 conversion> ------------------------------[ <- Message 55 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Glenn_Rees@PARLON2.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM Date: 04 Oct 96 01:41:01 EDT Subject: Re: Questions for real specialist S I owners Peter 1/The door handles were not coated, they were galvanised (long since worn off) 2/The bracket is like 2 pieces of angle iron about 450mm long welded together to form an S shape, it bolts to the 3 tapped holes under the rear crossmember. The flat section sticking out the back has a row of holes along the rear edge (about 8 x 13mm) | |<---crossmember |__|__| --|---| |<------bracket | ---"- <----plate with holes I hope that makes sense Cheers Glenn > Subject: Questions for real specialist S I owners > Author: INTERNET:lopezba@atnet.at at CSERVE [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)] > SI 107in S/W > Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1) ------------------------------[ <- Message 56 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 96 09:30:03 From: "Jens Vesterdahl" <jve@phaseone.dk> Subject: Re: brakes Hi all. Geoffrey wrote: - From a while ago I am feeling the brake pedal sloppy. The landrover brakes but - the pedal is depressing much more than it was before. The strang thing is - that when the pedal is slightly depressed, released and then pressed again it - feels as it was normal i.e good brake feeling without the pedal going down too - much. I have also checked the brake oil level and is not decreasing. - At first I that that a wheel cylinder must be leaking but if so the oil would - decrease and I dont think that after the first depress the pedal will get - normal. - Any suggestions on what the cause might be? Yeah - it sound like the brakes need adjustment. I have the same symptom on my 109 and I'm getting myself together to adjust them. When I had the brakes renewed in a garage a few months back, the local LR guru there had had the same experience. He vented the brakes over and over again without effect, but when he adjusted the brakes they became as good as new. Lift up the wheels, tighten the adjusters until the brake works and then loosen the adjusters two clicks. Happy Rovering Jens Vesterdahl 1972 109 STW ------------------------------[ <- Message 57 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 09:57:52 +0000 From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Subject: Re: Downeast photo... >Was this photo that has been talked about so much taken in Owles Head? It was indeed...and she was surrounded by the most lecherous looking bunch its ever been my priviledge to see.And that bloke at the back with the pipe was *the* worst:-) Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 58 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 11:12:24 +0000 From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Subject: Re: I need a new title.... All Terrain Executive? (ATE) Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 59 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST Input: messages 58 lines 2819 [forwarded 211 whitespace 540] Output: lines 1547 [content 874 forwarded 115 (cut 96) whitespace 491] Land Rover Owner Subscription Information: * All new subscription requests are via the digest. * In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved (by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net Useful commands for this are 'index lro-digest' which returns a list of files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc. World Wide Web Sites start at http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/pages.html (shadow) http://www.Senie.com/billc/lr/pages.html If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net -B[ First Message | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961004 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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