Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: What is a hi-lift?
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 13:13:09 +-100

Adrian Redmond[SMTP:channel6@post2.tele.dk] wrote:
help - what is a hi-lift when it's at home? And in
what way is it different to others of the same ilk?

Hello!
Have a look at:
http://www.4x44u.com/pub/k2/am4x44u/truck_stop/parts/hilift.htm

If You visit the meetings in Danish Land-Rover Club, I am sure 
somone will show You this thing. Or the Danish agent for it is 
located less than 50 Km from Aarhus, it is: DGA, Langaa, Phone:
86 46 16 55

My 60" High Lift is placed on the rear of the 110", vertical, 
in a homemade mounting.
I will try to make a photo of it, an place on my homepage. I will 
announce when it is ready.

Happy Rovering
Bent Boehlers

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 07:54:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: What oil in Rangie transfer box?

On Wed, 02 Oct 1996, Paul Oxley <paul@www.adventures.co.za> wrote:
>RALPH@SMUGGITS.MHS.CompuServe.COM wrote:
>> Dear all,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
>Ralph,
>Your 101 has the same drivetrain as my 109 2A. Believe me its EP90!
>Paul
NO, NO, NO, NO, NO, NO, NO!  The 101 uses the LT95 transmission/transfer box 
combination, same as used on the Early Range Rover, Stage One, and Early 110.  
Unless some major modification (swap) was carried out, it is not the same as 
your 2A!  Regular motor oil is the proper lubricant for the 101...I don't want 
to think about what EP90 would do to it, especially in cold weather.  All other 
driveline components (differentials) use EP90.

Rgds,
Eric

------------------------------

From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 07:59:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Servo/vacuum problem

Just out of curiosity how are you determining the ignition timing while going
down your driveway backwards?

------------------------------

From: Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 13:23:57 +0000
Subject: Re: SIII steering relais removal and swivelseal advice

>The high-lift & bottle-jack both have to push up on the bumpers or
>the frame.

A bottle jack under rthe frame will get you nowhere fast :( What with 
the suspension travel........

The bottle (or scissor) jack goes under the axles......

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 08:34:15 -0500
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Subject: High Lift Jacks

Ouch! I hear about all kinds of prices for high lift jacks. If you have a
Central Tractor outlet nearby, go! They have high lift jacks for about
forty bucks, and they are really great. I have already had Baby up on mine,
and it exactly fits betwen the back door and the middle bulkhead of my 88.
One bolt and it is mounted under the seats against the face of the wheel
well.

Central Tractor is a nationwide farm supply chain with 800 numbers and
everything.

 _______
 |___|__\__==
 | _ |  |  --]   Ned Heite, Camden, DE 19934        <DARWIN><
 =(O)-----(O)=                                        "   "

                             

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Oct 96 08:38:26 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Right in our backyard!

Wow, either my message was really boring and nobody got to the end of it, or 
nobody cares...

The LRNA test track at the Lanham MD HQ is open to the public...am I the only 
one that didn't know this???

Dave "I'm there, dude" B.

------------------------------

From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 14:00:31 +0000
Subject: Re: SIII steering relais removal and swivelseal advice

Quoting Andy Woodward, from  2 Oct 96

> >The high-lift & bottle-jack both have to push up on the bumpers or
> >the frame.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> suspension travel........
> The bottle (or scissor) jack goes under the axles......
This is true. The bottle-jack on the chassis isn't too bad if you've got a 
leafie :)

However, if you ever need to hold an axel or leaf-spring away from the chassis, 
jam the bottle-jack against the chassis...

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

However strong my opinions are, they are mine and no-one elses.

------------------------------

From: "Niel J. P. Fagan" <NF@orc.soton.ac.uk>
Date:          Wed, 2 Oct 1996 13:58:57 GMT
Subject:       Re: 2L/2.25L Diesels

Clinton,
       When one of our local landie specialists looked at my 2L, he 
could'nt tell the difference between it and a 2.25L, so MOST others 
won't be able to tell either......Rgds Niel

Views expressed are personal and not those of the 
University, unless otherwise & expressly stated.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Oct 96 05:59:01 MST
From: "Mitch Simons" <MSimons@ccmail.emg.com>
Subject: Person to person

Frustrated in Scottsdale Arizona. I am trying to reach the system administrator 
for LRO who supports this e-mail distribution. Can anyone tell me a good e-mail 
address to a real LIVE PERSON?

Thanks.....

Mitch Simons

msimons@emg.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 08:26:10 -0500 (CDT)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: Re: Mid-Atlantic Rover Rally

On Tue, 1 Oct 1996 ericz@cloud9.net wrote:
> Subject: Re: Mid-Atlantic Rover Rally
> Sandy,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> the ROAV rally and laying it out by my truck.  I understand this is short notice 
> but it would be a great help if you could get back to me before thursday.

eric, they may not like used parts down there.  why
don't you play it safe and ADVERTISE THEM ON THE NET...
there are willing cash buyers lurking...

Sincerely,

Ray Harder 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 06:30:46 -0700
From: Christopher Dow <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Wiring Harness Tips?

	After my last post regarding Mr. Lucas and fires, I had yet another fire
in my IIA (the details of which I'll not go into, as it's more than a
little embarrassing :-).  This one resulted in most of the part of the
wiring harness that goes through the bulkhead into the dash panel melting.
I've ordered a new wiring harness and am planning on installation this
weekend.  Does anyone know of any tips or pitfalls of which I should be
aware before doing this?  I do have the shop manuals (LR, not Haynes), so
I'm not without any help.

Thanks,
Chris
'65 IIA 88" SW
'96 Disco

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Split Seal Trick
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 96 09:43:00 DST

Addendum to split seal installation: Before screwing the ends of the spring 
together apply a little twist to the spring so when the ends are screwed in 
the spring is relaxed. You'll understand what I mean when you try it.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Oct 96 09:45:03 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Mid-Atlantic Rover Rally

Ray writes:

>>eric, they may not like used parts down there. 

Are you saying we are snobs that only like shiny, new parts?

>>> why
don't you play it safe and ADVERTISE THEM ON THE NET...
there are willing cash buyers lurking...

Better yet, bring 'em to the rally, so that I can have first dibs...
Woohoo!

Dave B.
Used? More like broken in..."i'll take the one with the mud already on it..."

BTW, Eric sells (sold) new stuff, as well as used.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 09:50:06 -0400
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Re: Wiring Harness Tips?

Christopher Dow wrote:

> I've ordered a new wiring harness and am planning on installation this
> weekend.  Does anyone know of any tips or pitfalls of which I should be
> aware before doing this?  I do have the shop manuals (LR, not Haynes), so
> I'm not without any help.

I actually found the Haynes diagrams easier to read than the LR ones. 
But 
as to tips, When I did it, I found it easiest to lay the harness out
with
an ohmmeter in hand and verifying the ends of the browns and brown with
blue
strip wire ends etc before starting.  I began at the voltage regulator 
and wired out from there testing the ends with the ohmmeter before
hooking up
the other ends each time until there were very few connections left.  It
saved
alot of rearranging.

The other pointer is if you run into problems behind the instrument
panel,
Charlie at RN is outstanding with electrics.  
-- 
Nate Dunsmore
88" SIIa ("The Blue Brick" http://members.aol.com/naddmd/first.htm )
dunsmo19@us.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Oct 96 09:59:10 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Wiring Harness Tips?

>>>>I've ordered a new wiring harness and am planning on installation this
weekend.  Does anyone know of any tips or pitfalls of which I should be
aware before doing this? 

I took my harness out and repaired it, but it wasn't so bad as your's sounds. I 
was a little daunted by the tangle of wires, but tracing wires and reading the 
schematics helped alot. unwrapping the old harness will sort of helps you figure
out what each wire does. Also, if you disconnect everything in the engine bay 
and mark each wire, then you can remove the whole guage panel from the dash, 
with wiring harness trailiung behind. Then it's just a matter of bringing it 
over to your work bench and changing over one wire at a time. Not so difficult, 
really. Make sure everything is securely fastened, or it will vibrate around and
the insulation will wear through and you will have a direct short to ground and 
probably another fire. Also make sure you have grommets where it goes through 
the panels.

Dave B.
MMMM...spaghetti!

------------------------------

From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 10:06:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Mid-Atlantic Rover Rally

I for one, would be estatic to see a bunch of parts, Whole trucks even ;-) at
the Roav meet.
Rgds Quintin Aspin

------------------------------

From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 10:12:12 -0400
Subject: Re: 2L/2.25L Diesels

The biggest difference between 2 ltr and 2.25 Dsl is VELOCITY. I once owned a
2 ltr diesel in a SI 88 safari wagon and it was by far the slowest vehicle I
have ever owned. The person I sold it to promptly put a turner 2.25 gas in
it, It is now for sale again I understand. 
Rgds Quintin Aspin

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Sep 96 18:56:01 UT
From: "Charles F. Proctor" <CharlesFProctor@msn.com>
Subject: RE: 

I hold a SCUBA instructor card and would certainly recommend using a SCUBA 
tank to fill tires if for no other reason is that the air is very dry and most 
friendly to the inside of your rims - unlike water laden air from mini 
compressors.

----------
From: 	LRO Book Shop & The LRO Shop
Sent: 	Thursday, July 25, 1996 10:12 PM

Hi all

Rather than use those mini air compressors for re-inflating tyres, I use a 
scuba
diving cylinder which has a 3000 psi capacity.  

As a former rescue diver and paramedic I would stongly recommend that you do
not attempt this procedure.  These cylinders, regardless of the type of
regulator are not designed for inflating tyres.  Two or three minutes is not
long.  It would not take much to over inflate a tyre with devastating
results.  You could kill yourself!

I would suggest that this is not a responsible tip for the digest.

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS)
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 09:47:34 -0500
Subject: Re: #%*&@~&# City ordinances

Paul (& everyone),

I told my wife about your situation last night, and she offered to send   
you a pink flamingo if they force you off the driveway, and suggested   
other list members do the same. After all, the city couldn't really make   
you remove 20 or 30 or more pink flamingos from your front lawn, could   
they. :-) No, you're just decorating - just arrange them a bit so they   
don't look haphazard. Maybe a lawn jockey or two, and some cute little   
bunnies, a plastic, life sized deer family...

Leave them out there for at least as long as it would have taken you to   
complete the frameover.

Tim
 ---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

From: iharper@afm.org
Subject: Paint again
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 96 11:20:08 EST

More paint problems.....Bronze green this time.

My local paint (McKerlie-Millen) store knew the cross referencing #'s for 
NONE of the paint codes given by Dixon on the OVLR page.  The best he 
could do was call up RM (who they handle) and get a formula from them to 
match the old #.   Unless LR paint actually gets darker with age, this is 
the wrong colour.   Much lighter, although close.  for little dabs it's 
not too noticeable but larger areas tend to make it look like a camouflage 
job.

Does anyone have any more up to date #'2 (or formulas) for a 74 bronze 
green?

Cheers, Ian

---
 This copy of Freddie 1.2.5 is being evaluated.

------------------------------

From: iharper@afm.org
Subject: Silver Wheel plan
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 96 11:20:07 EST

To all those in Ontario,  does anyone use the Silver Wheel plan insurance 
as offered by Lant & co?  I phoned yesterday and was informed that it was 
only for going to and from car shows and "maybe the occasional drive on a 
sunny day!"  Obviously she does not know what LR's are for.  She also 
emphatically stated that you could not use the car for work or "shopping".

I talked to a fellow at British car day who just smashed up his 109 and 
was in the process of being reimbursed for it under this plan....lets hope 
he didn't go to the store on the way!

Anyone with any experience of this or other $$$saving plans, let me know, 
as presently I pay about $600 for Insurance.......

Cheers, Ian

---
 This copy of Freddie 1.2.5 is being evaluated.

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 11:25:20 -0400
Subject: '84 Rangie w/ blown trans.

Jan inquired about value of subject vehicle. I'd say depends on condition
otherwise. Would be difficult to tell if you can't drive it. Reprtedly, the
early LT-77 five speeds were prone to breakage, being a modified Rover  P-6
'box. I'd check on cost of used box from a late model L-R D-90 or Discovery.
The boxes used on TR-8 and SD-1 sold in the U.S. should also work, but again
you would be asking for breakage in the future. My parts catalog shows
replacement layshaft cluster and 1st. & 2nd selector rod and fork part
numbers for the LT77. If you rebuild I suggest using Genuine PArts to ensure
that the new bearings, etc, are current specification.
I am very satisfied with my '83 RR 4 speed. Its just crude enough to envoke
memories of my old SIIA but is far more practical (as much as a L-R product
can be 
:->), so if the body and frame are solid it could be a good buy. The usual
 precautions about buying any used Rangie apply, but look for heavy gunk and
carbon in engine top end (thru oil filler), which is an indication of poor
oil change discipline. Parts are easy to find, from the usual sources. If you
have any questions about what to look for please feel free to contact me. As
an earlier thread on the Coils list indicated (from KKelly) the gray market
trucks are about impossible to modify (economically) to meet most E-check
rules. Here in Ohio if you show $300 in related repairs for previous six
months you can get a waiver from emissions rules. Cheers. Andy Blackley. 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 11:28:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Tr3

On Wed, 2 Oct 1996, Jens Vesterdahl wrote:

> Well, Dixon. Tell us exactly what's keeping you from putting a 16 valve, 
> crossflow double overhead cam 1275cc engine in your LR. ;-)

	Drivetrain couldn't handle the power & I need that kind of engine 
	in the Cooper S where it enables on-road characteristics that the 109
	could never hope to emulate... :-)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 08:56:11 -0700
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: vacuum problemII

Do you mean that the engine speed is changing, so the assumption is that the 
timing is the cause? I'd suspect that the motor is shifting, thereby pulling 
on the carb linkage. I doubt there's any connection with the centrifugal 
advance, except that the timing is centrifugally advanced with engine speed.
Of course, it IS Lucas, so anything is possible.
JohnO

>advances.   Well let's just try something.   I scooted down my driveway 
>backwards, all of 30 feet, and as I applied the brakes, the timing 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>Will some one please tell me what to fix to get rid of this?  I'm standing 
>by with the gaffers tape....

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 09:15:12 -0700
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: delco wiring instructions

To use a Delco alternator with the built-in regulator, the number 1 spade 
terminal gets connected to the dash indicator light, thence to the ignition 
switch. Spade number 2 gets connected to the positive battery terminal or as 
close to the battery as wiring will allow. The post connects with large gage 
wire to the bettery. The ground lug gets grounded to the chassis, if used. 
If the wire from number 2 is jumpered to the post, the system will work, but 
not as well. Very little current flows through the number 2 wire, so it can 
be very light gage.
If the terminals are not in-line ( - - ) with each other but are parallel ( 
I I ), then the alternator requires an external regulator. 
Hope this helps

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 18:16:12 +0200
From: pwakefie@esis.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield - System Manager (SERCO) X492)
Subject: More news

Hello all

> jcasteel@mindspring.com wrote
> Subject: Series Database
>Is there any information that you are interested in that I can add to 
>the database??  It is easier to add now than it will be in the future.

Yes, how about engine type petrol/diesel ?
I think however engine size or type of replacement engine (re-power) may be too 
vast, though interesting. (I am considering a Ford V6 myself)

I know a lot of you are interested in LR sightings on TV. I saw a LR Series III
88" (bright yellow) in a 'Ferrero Rocher' chocolate advert the other day.
It featured a "James Bond" style button on the dashboard which raised a plate of 
said chocolates from a concealed compartment. (Oh dear) Powered by Lucas ??

See you. Paul.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 12:21:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Silver Wheel plan

On Tue, 1 Oct 1996 iharper@afm.org wrote:

> To all those in Ontario,  does anyone use the Silver Wheel plan insurance 
> as offered by Lant & co?  I phoned yesterday and was informed that it was 
> only for going to and from car shows and "maybe the occasional drive on a 
> sunny day!"  Obviously she does not know what LR's are for.  She also 
> emphatically stated that you could not use the car for work or "shopping".

	Not yet, but will.  A number of us here are adding additional
	weaponry to are arsenal of tools to use for this system, namely
	appraisal forms prepared by OVLR giving values etc.  Lots of 
	background to this one, but it has been accepted by insurance 
	companies in the past.  Also vis- the programme itself, the
	insurance classifies your vehicle as "antique" as per the 
	provincial plates (whether it carried them or not), which
	comes with a bunch of restrictions.  The important ones
	are travel to and from events only, excepting journeys
	to and from garages, testing, normal maintenance.  NO driving
	to and from work.  Milage is limited to about 5K miles a year.

> Anyone with any experience of this or other $$$saving plans, let me know, 
> as presently I pay about $600 for Insurance.......

	About $350 here.  In Quebec I was paying $29 a year.  Give me that
	socialist, povincial insurance scheme in Quebec!  On top of
	this, the Quebec Government makes abnout a 650 million profit
	a year on auto insurance.  Can we imply that the private insurers
	in Ontario are making a fair bit of coin on the deal?  Insurance
	industry in this country being centered in London, Ontario I 
	have little doubt that we will be ripped off for many a year to
	come.

------------------------------

From: RALPH@SMUGGITS.MHS.CompuServe.COM
Date: 02 Oct 96 10:30:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Re: What oil in Rangie transfer box?

Paul,

I think it very unlikely that the drivetrain is the same as your 2A 
(unless you've converted it) The LT95 gearbox was designed in the late 
60's with the 101 in mind and the Rangie was the first vehicle it went 
into. I know the gearbox definitly takes engine oil, the garage put up a 
good case for EP90 in the transfer box, but next time I change the oil 
I'll probably put engine oil in.

Regards,

Ralph 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 12:28:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Paint again

On Tue, 1 Oct 1996 iharper@afm.org wrote:

> My local paint (McKerlie-Millen) store knew the cross referencing #'s for 
> NONE of the paint codes given by Dixon on the OVLR page.  The best he 

	They are out to lunch...  The dupont codes etc are used all
	the time around here and elsewhere.  How many more companies 
	do you want?

               RM Supermax   Ditzler   Glasurit   Dupont Centauri Herberts
 Limestone       RV-040       46251                  38505-A	   
 Marine Blue     RV-017       16514     ROV-504      38503-A
 Poppy Red       RV-029                 ROV-303      38506-AH
 Pastel Green    RV-028                 ROV-605      38504-A
 Bronze Green    RV-027       46451     LEY-637      38500-A	   0428

> could do was call up RM (who they handle) and get a formula from them to 
> match the old #.   Unless LR paint actually gets darker with age, this is 

	RM number match?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 09:35:42 -0700
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: #%*&@~&# City ordinances

At 09:47 AM 10/2/96 -0500, you wrote:
>I told my wife about your situation last night, and she offered to send   
>you a pink flamingo if they force you off the driveway, and suggested   
>other list members do the same. After all, the city couldn't really make   

Count me in if needed.  (Only, anybody know where to get a pink flamingo?)

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 13:35:16 -0400
From: Rob MacCormick <Rob_MacCormick@Harvard.Edu>
Subject: dormobile light bulb

Anyone know where to find a fluorescent lightbulb for a dormobile ceiling
fixture? I've yet to rumage the paperwork that came with the vehicle and
havn't visited radio shack yet but thought I'd type out a quick note to see
if anyone's "been there - done that"  Rob M Concord, MA USA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 11:38:36 -0600
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Subject: Re: What is a hi-lift?

At 02:12 PM 01/10/96 -0400, Dixon Kenner, wrote
>> By the way, last time you wrote you talked of the Red Green show - what
>> is that?
>	Hmmm, this is a tough one to describe.  A programme, originally 
>	produced for TV Ontario (Made in Hamilton, Ontario actually),
>	now on PBS in the USA. 

The show is required watching just to catch Red's Handyman Corner
which features useless but creative ways to use duct tape and useless but
creative ways to use old parts, both of which are essential skills for
Series owners.

There is a tonne of links on the Web but the following will answer most
questions I think.

http://www.csclub.uwaterloo.ca/u/tjnye/red_green.html

The following are quotes about duct tape, heard on the "Handyman
Corner" segment of the show: 

  1."The handyman's secret weapon: DUCT TAPE." 
  2."The handyTEEN's secret weapon: DUCT TAPE. (quoted by Harold,
    of course) 
  3."Nothing says 'poor craftsman' like lumpy tape" 
  4."You can NEVER have too much duct tape" 
  5."I don't know which part of the Duck it comes from, but I love the
    stuff" 
  6."Duct tape...also known as Mexican Solder". 
  7."Bungee Cords: the Handyman's _other_ secret weapon" 
  8."Wrap it around your fingers and you have AG - alternate glove." 
  9."Spare the duct tape, spoil the job!" 
]

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/cobracom
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 11:38:34 -0600
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Subject: Re: Source of parts in Canada

At 10:22 PM 01/10/96 -0700, David Place, wrote

>For those in Canada in particular, Malcolm Engleman at Onaway Alberta is 
>now in the Land Rover parts full time. 

Uh. . . .whereabouts is Onaway and do you have a phone number?

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/cobracom
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 17:38:19 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Questions for real specialist S I owners

All S I owners: two specialist questions.

Were the outer door handles on later S I's coated with black plastic, or 
were they just chemically blackened?

The parts catalogue lists a Bracket for towing attachments (part no 265126) 
for the 107" Station Wagon, but without a picture. Can anybody describe it?

Thanks in advance

Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 17:38:14 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Spanner sizes

Dear all, in order to contribute something useful for a change I have 
compiled a table of spanner (and socket) sizes for the more common metric, 
A/F, BSF, Whitworth and BA nuts and bolts.

Please remember:
Metric and A/F bolt and nut sizes are hex sizes, measured between two 
opposite flats. BSF an Whitworth are bolt diameters, measured over threads. 
God only knows what BA sizes are. The measurements are not the hex sizes, 
but the spanner sizes; hexes would be about 0,1 mm smaller (depending on the 
state of my tools). Please read all commas as periods, if that makes a 
difference to you.

Size      Standard  Spanner distance in mm

6         BA         4,9
5         ISO        5,1
1/4       A/F        5,5
6         ISO        6,1
4         BA         6,3
7         ISO        7,1
5/16      A/F        8,0
8         ISO        8,1
2         BA         8,3
1/8       WW         8,7
3/16      BSF        8,7
9         ISO        9,1
3/8       A/F        9,6
10        ISO       10,1
0         BA        10,5
11        ISO       11,1
7/16      A/F       11,2
3/16      WW        11,4
1/4       BSF       11,4
12        ISO       12,1
1/2       A/F       12,7
13        ISO       13,1
1/4       WW        13,5
5/16      BSF       13,5
14        ISO       14,1
9/16      A/F       14,3
15        ISO       15,1
5/16      WW        15,3
3/8       BSF       15,3
5/8       A/F       16,0
16        ISO       16,1
17        ISO       17,1
11/16     A/F       17,5
3/8       WW        18,1
7/16      BSF       18,1
18        ISO       18,1
19        ISO       19,1
3/4       A/F       19,2
20        ISO       20,1
13/16     A/F       20,9
7/16      WW        21,0
1/2       BSF       21,0
21        ISO       21,1
22        ISO       22,1
7/8       A/F       22,4
23        ISO       23,1
1/2       WW        23,5
9/16      BSF       23,5
15/16     A/F       24,0
24        ISO       24,1
1         A/F       25,6
9/16      WW        25,8
5/8       BSF       25,8
5/8       WW        28,0

This may help if you can't reach the correct spanner while you are wedged 
under the car, so memorize it, please. However, the right tool is the best tool!
Regards
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 11:05:31 -0700
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Paint again

Dixon Kenner wrote:
> On Tue, 1 Oct 1996 iharper@afm.org wrote:
> > My local paint (McKerlie-Millen) store knew the cross referencing #'s for
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)]
> > match the old #.   Unless LR paint actually gets darker with age, this is
>         RM number match?

My experience (based on contacts with several jobbers) is that the paint codes cannot
be matched between brands without mixing and visual adjustment.  Moreover, codes
are not automatically convertable to different types of paint within
the brand (e.g., ChromaOne vs. Centari for DuPont).  I've even called DuPont for
help with Limestone formulation for ChromaOne.  They couldn't even provide cross
referencing.  FYI they do have all the above landrover colors listed for Centari, 
but the limestone formula for ChromaOne is described as in the process of formulation.

Attempts to match between brands seem to come down to scanning and then modifying 
the result by trial and error to get a match.

So the story seems to be that if you live in an area where, say, Dupont Centari is legal, 
then the formula is readily available and appropriate (I assume this also holds for 
other brands).  But if you're tring to cross reference to other brands - no go.

Something as simple as the type of base used in the type of paint can apparently even vary.
Again, for example, DuPont calculated for me (untested) what they thought the ChromaOne
component weights should be for limestone, but the formula they provided apparently used
a base that is illegal in my area of California.  Surprising, I'd have thought the base
was consistent for a given paint type.  

I'd be VERY interested if anyone has had experience with a jobber who was able to
generate appropriate color weights for either another brand or another paint type from
just the codes above.  I'm particularly interested in DuPont ChromaOne.
Any names and tel. numbers??

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Oct 96 14:10:40 EST
From: rscholl@lib.com
Subject: SCUBA

     P.S.  - Secure that tank!! they make a nice rocket!!
     
     rfs - Acton, MA
     rscholl@lib.com
     1970 SIIa 88" DD

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Oct 96 14:08:51 EST
From: rscholl@lib.com
Subject: Re[2]: 

     

About the SCUBA tank idea:

Yes, they are filled to 3000 PSI (some even 4500) and hold around 80 cubic feet 
(60-80) of air.  If you purchase/borrow/steal/??? the first stage regulator, the
low pressure inflator hose drops the pressure to about 100 PSI - safe for a few 
second burst into a tire!  DON'T even think about adapting to the high pressure 
hose that the gauges attach to or directly without a reg!!  This is the concern 
discussed in the previous response.  I have a small air-fill adapter that mates 
to the low-pressure inflator hose (available at dive shops) and it does function
fine.   Aside, an air fill runs about $3.00, visual inspection (yearly) about 
$10.00, and hydro test every 5 ($??.??).  They won't fill without them!
> Subject: RE: 
> Author:  Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com at mailgate
> From:  LRO Book Shop & The LRO Shop

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 41 lines)]
> results.  You could kill yourself!
> I would suggest that this is not a responsible tip for the digest.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Oct 96 14:30:20 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Not the SCUBA tank thing again!

NEXT SUBJECT!

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel.
Soon to be Triumph Trophy owner ?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 14:43:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Paint again

On Wed, 2 Oct 1996, Jeremy Bartlett wrote:

> I'd be VERY interested if anyone has had experience with a jobber who was 
> able to generate appropriate color weights for either another brand or 
> another paint type from just the codes above.  

	Chap who did Dale's 88" bronze green will be supplying me
	the colour weights at the next OVLR exec (he runs a body shop
	& is currently the OVLR vice-president) which should be this
	coming Monday.  I'll post & put on the web site for all as
	soon as I get them from him.  Dale's came out very close to some 
	original sun shielded panels in my 109 (seatbox sides).

	Rgds,

	Dixon

------------------------------

From: iharper@afm.org
Subject: Fuel pumps
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 96 14:31:49 EST

"Taking the Boat out of the Water", or "How to Check Your Fuel Pump"

So, it's a beautiful day, I think I'll take the boat out of the water.  
Take the Rover down to the lake, back him in with the trailer, oops, I 
guess I'll have to put it in gear (stopping the car of course) because the 
transmission brake needs adjusting again.  (Didn't I just do that ?)

Get the boat on the trailer, tied on, I'll just start him up and drive up 
the modest 10-15 deg slope.  Well......Chug chug die....Flooded?, leave it 
(no smell of gas though) and try it again in 10 minutes.  Same thing.

So I pull off the fuel line and manually pump it......none of the usual 
gas spilling all over the hot engine, somethings amiss.  I figure, better 
rig up a can with a hose and hold it above the carb so it gravity feeds. 
Never done this before, but heard of someone somewhere doing it sometime.

While I'm waiting for the silicone seal (always handy along with the 
gaffer's tape) to dry, I figure I'll take the fuel bowl off, fill it and 
try to pump it again.  The fuel bowl, however, is already full. So.....I 
decided to wash that lovely breakfast out of my mouth by sucking on the 
hose, with the theory that if I get enough gas in the carb it may be 
enough to get me to level ground.  Spl!%$#^...and hook it up to the carb, 
run around and prime it and dash into the cab and start him up.

Success......with alot of temporarily black smoke, I rev it high and burn 
rubber so I can get up the slope, high and dry (and level).

Just another day out, really.....

Cheers, Ian

Ps.  I can see why others share their experiences, it's very cathartic.

---
 This copy of Freddie 1.2.5 is being evaluated.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 14:54:23 -0400
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel pumps

iharper@afm.org wrote:

> Ps.  I can see why others share their experiences, it's very cathartic.

And entertaining... ;)

-- 
Nate (I'll probably be next) Dunsmore
88" SIIa ("The Blue Brick" http://members.aol.com/naddmd/first.htm )
dunsmo19@us.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 15:09:58 -0400
From: David_R@mindspring.com (David Russell)
Subject: Re: LRNA TEST TRACK OPEN

On:

>Date: Tue, 01 Oct 96 09:26:27 EST
>From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
>Subject: LUCAS STRIKES AGAIN/LRNA TEST TRACK OPEN

>Also, in a mostly unrelated event, on my way back from this fiasco, I ran into
>my neighbor who is a frequent off-roader and is on one of the local e-mail
>lists.

That'd be the OCC Bowie-list (Off-Camber Clan weekly trip list)

>Seems the LRNA test track in Bowie MD is OPEN TO THE PUBLIC!!!!

Just to prevent any confusion, this is *not* the new test track shown on
the LRNA Web site. As far as I know, it's the original Range Rover (left
over from when LRNA was RRNA) testing grounds and has a wide variety of
terrain and lots of mud! One guy sank his Cherokee Sport in a water hole
and it needed a lot of work. The OCC has done a great job of being
responsible and clearing out junk, including abandon vehicles.

-David

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 15:34:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: 12/4/95 <rsloan@titan.liunet.edu>
Subject: Green=go, Red=stop, yellow=go faster!

This is to adress the fact that some of us can not see traffic lights 
from our high perches in our aluminum boxes.

After cleaning and polishing my rover after my nice little foray into the 
mud and clay, I was buffing the hood (bonnet for the UK's) and remembered 
a trick I used to use in my old truck, which was also a rather high 
perch.  I always kept a section of the hood very shiny, ie) clean, so 
that when I came upon a red light and I was the leader of the pack, I 
would come up to the light until I saw it reflected in the hood.  Then, I 
would simply watch my hood for the red light to turn, and voila!  	
it's a little tricky at first to get the right angle, you have to approach 
slowly or you might drive past it and not see the reflection, it depends 
on height of your vehicle as compared to height of your body.  I'm going 
to try it out right now and let you know if it works in my rover...don't 
see why it wouldn't though.

By the way, can we stop talking about accidents?  I think it has jinxed 
me, as somebody slammed into me in a parking lot yesterday as I was 
reversing out of my spot, I stopped, changed to first, and glanced to my 
right. Much to my dismay a lady was driving right for me with her head 
down, (looked like she was tuning her radio or...sh*t, she's dialing a car 
phone) at about 10-15mph. I honked, she looked up, O!, slammed into me and 
smashed her head against her steering wheel (lesson: always wear a seat belt
while dialing your cellular!) dropping her phone. She was undamaged, basically, 
and I didn't even feel the impact.  Her bumper smacked into the middle 
rim of my rear tire.  The rim was a little scuffed, her bumper was quite 
pushed up, and she had to hang up on the person she just called.  I 
actually heard her say, "I'll call you back." Can you believe that? Too 
bad.  I'm really starting to hate those things, people can't drive as it 
is, now they're putting phones into the mix!  Well, she was quite 
flustered and didn't want to be bothered with insurance and police, but 
she smacked my rim and I wanted to make damn sure I had her info in case 
there was an alignment problem.  I got it checked out and there wasn't.  
By the way, as she drove off, she placed her call again.

Rich
D90 #2948, now sporting a new "designer" rim

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 15:38:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Downeast photo...

	Saw the photo in question with the sweet young thing jacking up
	the front of Spencer Norcross's 88" on the off-road day at
	the Downeast Rally.  I'm not in the photo.  However, in the
	backgroud wearing the green shirt is Jared Silbersher and
	behind him Mike Loiodice.  As for the name of the 14? year old, 
	that can be supplied by either: Spencer, Eric Z., or Jeff Berg...
	:-)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Oct 96 15:50:57 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Green=go, Red=stop, yellow=go faster!

In our neck of the woods, if you go as soon as the light changes you will 
likely be the unhappy recipient of a gratuituous T-bone from a red 
runner. Survivors around here usually wait half a second to see how many 
people run the light before venturing forth.
Also, in Maryland anyway, a backing vehicle must give way to others. If 
you were in my state, you'd be liable for failing to yield! Sure, it 
doesn't make sense, but that's the way it is, baby.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel.
Soon to be Triumph Trophy owner ?

------------------------------

From: ChrisF6724@aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 15:56:07 -0400
Subject:  re: #%*&@~&# City ordinances

Hate to say it, but I think you're screwed...   Most laws like these are
covered by neighborhood covenants.  Unfortunately, this sounds like a city
ordinance.  

There are a couple of things you could try.  First, read the ordinance.
 Next, always remember, "you are repairing a damaged item", not "replacing".
 Usually, laws allow you to "repair", but you must be a licensed professional
to "replace".  (this includes work done to your home).  Also, many city
ordinance's like this only apply to city maintained streets (yours is a
privately owned driveway).  Other laws also apply to privately owned
property's street frontage... 

If there is room, move your work to the backyard (assuming you have one).
 Usually, you can do just about anything there as long as it's temporary.  

You might also go around to your neighbors and ask them if it's ok to have
this mess on your driveway for a couple of weeks.  Have them sign something,
and it's possible you might be able to talk yourself out of a fine or ticket
when "The Man" comes around.  It is also possible to get a "special use"
permit from the city, but somehow, I think your chances would be slim of
getting such a permit.

Otherwise, think of the tickets as a motivation tool to speed up the
process...;-)

(not a lawyer, and could be wrong)
Chris Fisher 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 13:44:28 -0700
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: working in your driveway

Just a thought: obtain a low flatbed trailer big enough to hold your 
project. Voila, you now have a TRAILER parked there (and mobile if need be), 
which just happens to have something on it under the tarp. Maybe even take 
it away for a day now and then to fool the neighbors.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 14:33:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: "James M. Davis" <jamesd@baker.cnw.com>

subscribe to list
subscribe land-rover-owner
subscribe lro-digest

Jim Davis

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 14:29:08 -0700
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Paint again

Dixon Kenner wrote:
> On Wed, 2 Oct 1996, Jeremy Bartlett wrote:
> > I'd be VERY interested if anyone has had experience with a jobber who was
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
>         original sun shielded panels in my 109 (seatbox sides).
>         Rgds,
>         Dixon

I'm hoping to be able to do the same for DuPont ChromaOne Limestone (approximation).
I assume the color weights you mention are from one of the known brands/types.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 17:48:03 -0400
From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: Downeast photo...

>As for the name of the 14? year old,
>	that can be supplied by either: Spencer, Eric Z., or Jeff Berg...
>	:-)

Actually, Bob Morrison is the one to ask.  He even wrote it down in his
notebook.

And why am I the only one fully named?  I'm the innocent bystander...

Dear Dad:  Send lawyers.  And guns.  And money.

RoverOn!

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Oct 96 18:10:10 EDT
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re101: #%*&@~&# City ordinances

At 03:56 PM 10/2/96, ????? <ChrisF6724@aol.com> wrote:
>Hate to say it, but I think you're screwed...   Most laws like these are
>covered by neighborhood covenants.  Unfortunately, this sounds like a city
>ordinance.

 Paul Archibald and others,

 California State law has a section designed to foster the preservation
 of old vehicles (20 or 25+ years), and specifically addresses the storage
 and by inference the repair of vehicles by collectors in residential
 neighborhoods.  Not withstanding private covenants in subdivisions (to
 which you or your landlord agreed to as condition to buying your property),
 such vehicles can be stored anywhere on the property as long as they are
 covered up.  Ie, I keep a poly-tarp on my historic Rumpole ('65 IIA wreck)
 and Mercedes Unimog 404 Cargo truck (partly because it's military appearance
 is not PC :)  The section is in the Vehicle Code.  See your DMV for a $5
 newsprint copy, or go online.

 I've seen your house and truck, Paul, and I'm almost certain you can repair
 your vehicle in your driveway (even a frameover), if you keep a tarp on it
 when you're not working it.  The ordinances about painting and welding, etc
 that they're refering to probably have to do with commercial enterprises
 and not collectors working on their own vehicles.  As you know, local law
 is prempted by State law.

 Regards,

-Michael Carradine

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 18:28:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu>
Subject: Re: Downeast photo...

On Wed, 2 Oct 1996, Jeffrey A Berg wrote:

> >As for the name of the 14? year old,
> >	that can be supplied by either: Spencer, Eric Z., or Jeff Berg...
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> notebook.
> And why am I the only one fully named?  I'm the innocent bystander...

14? Jeff, come on man.  Just because she is the same height as you does
NOT make it O.K.

Russ W.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 19:47:48 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: Re: Right in your backyard!

On Wed, 02 Oct 96, "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> wrote:

>The LRNA test track at the Lanham MD HQ is open to the public...am I the only 
>one that didn't know this???

Nope. I didn't, and I read the whole message, and I was quite envious.
Still, after today's rather excessive rain, tomorrow morning I'll have about a 
mile of LR-heaven mud and gulleys to negotiate on the way to the beach to check 
out some seaweed experiments :-)
If the clutch keeps working that is :-(
Cheers

Allan Smith
Caribbean Natural Resources Institute
Vieux Fort
St. Lucia, West Indies.
Tel +(758) 454 6060
Fax +(758) 454 5188

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 19:47:51 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: D90 clutch

Hi all - apologies to anyone also on the UK list. Has anyone worked on the 
clutch on the R380/LT230T transmission?
A couple of days ago I was close to losing all response from the clutch pedal 
and found the reservoir empty since the last check a few weeks ago (before that 
it hadn't changed in the 18 months from new). Removing the slave cylinder I 
found the rubber dust cover detached, and the plastic clip that holds the 
pushrod to the release lever also detached. I re-assembled without the clip 
(which I couldn't re-attach via the hole for the slave in the bell housing), and 
it seems OK. Is the clip essential in normal operation or is it there to aid 
assembly?
A couple of responses from the UK list described the distressing scenario of the 
pushrod pushing a hole through the release lever in relatively new vehicles.
Cheers,
 
Allan Smith
Caribbean Natural Resources Institute
Vieux Fort
St. Lucia, West Indies.
Tel +(758) 454 6060
Fax +(758) 454 5188

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 18:04:41 -0700
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Melcolm Engleman

Someone asked where Onaway Alberta is and a phone number for Melcolm 
Engleman.  Onaway is about 35 miles west of Edmonton on the Yellowhead 
#16 highway.  His number is 1-403-967-5531.  I think most of his new 
stuff is from Bearmach, but I know he orders some things from somewhere 
in Wales.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 18:04:41 -0700
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Melcolm Engleman

Someone asked where Onaway Alberta is and a phone number for Melcolm 
Engleman.  Onaway is about 35 miles west of Edmonton on the Yellowhead 
#16 highway.  His number is 1-403-967-5531.  I think most of his new 
stuff is from Bearmach, but I know he orders some things from somewhere 
in Wales.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: What oil in Rangie transfer box?
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 10:25:51 +0930 (CST)

 Paul Oxley writes:
> Ralph,
> Your 101 has the same drivetrain as my 109 2A. Believe me its EP90!

This is a joke right......

Daryl

------------------------------

From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Re: What oil in Rangie transfer box?
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 10:30:18 +0930 (CST)

Ralph writes:

> I know the gearbox definitly takes engine oil, the garage put up a 
> good case for EP90 in the transfer box, but next time I change the oil 
> I'll probably put engine oil in.

I take it the garage agreed to replace the transfer case thrust washers 
next time its in then, If not i'd be changing that EP 90 out now....

Daryl

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 22:19:03 -0400
Subject: Re: '84 Rangie w/ blown trans.

I have experience with the SD1 Box. A few things come to mind. It has its own
oil pump, which runs off the layshaft with a square drive. The oil is pumped
down the mainshaft, which is hollow. Its a gear pump made of wood--something,
a la old Volvo B18 and 20 Cam gears. New ones are cheap. The oil should be
Dexron, not 90wt. First, you lose fourth--
The box I put in my SD1 came out of a TR7. All I had to change was the
bellhousing and use the Rover speedo drive.
Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD engine rebuild under way!
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!!

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 22:18:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Norm Thompson Catalog

I hope Rovers North was watching! I think they owe Uncle Roger a coffee cup
for a sighting!
John (two coffee cups) Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD engine rebuild under way!
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!!

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 23:58:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Downeast photo...

On Wed, 2 Oct 1996, Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca> wrote:
>	Saw the photo in question with the sweet young thing jacking up

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>	that can be supplied by either: Spencer, Eric Z., or Jeff Berg...
>	:-)
Or how about Mike "PERKY!" L. ?

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 00:01:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Downeast photo...

On Wed, 2 Oct 1996, Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu> wrote:

>On Wed, 2 Oct 1996, Jeffrey A Berg wrote:
>> >As for the name of the 14? year old,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
>NOT make it O.K.
>Russ W.
Ouch!
>On Wed, 2 Oct 1996, Jeffrey A Berg wrote:

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 00:17:54 -0400
From: agscsmps@post.kosone.com (G.Stoneham)
Subject: PTO's approximate value

Well,I'm off on another Rover hunt this weekend.This time it's 1958 88 about
100 miles from here.
The first time I spoke to the owner he remarked how the frame was "good".
Now ,two day's before I'm ready to go out there he say's"Well ,it's been
some time since I looked underneath it"and,"You may have some weldin' to do
on them cross pieces".
So right now I'm picturing "them cross pieces"being the main rails of the
chassis.At any rate he say's there's a PTO on it and
providing it will fit a 2.25 ltr. 1960's era transmission I'd be interested
in buying it.
Any idea what it's worth and if it will fit my transmission?
Thanks,
Steve

------------------------------

From: "David J. Mercer" <merkin@sierra.net>
Subject: RE: Questions for real specialist S I owners
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 19:05:06 -0700
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Peter, if you are talking about a 107, the door handles on my 57 are =
coated in black plastic, if they are deteriorating there is this stuff I =
have seen that you can just dip what ever you want into it, and it will =
put a nice layer of black rubber on it. As for the 107 towing bracket I =
will have to go look at mine, but I don't think it is stock? I will get =
back to you soon on the towing bracket.

----------

David Mercer
PO BOX 3713
Olympic Valley CA 96146
ph  916-583-4829
fax 916-583-4829
merkin@sierra.net
53 S1 80" IN REBUILD  "THE HOON"
57 S1 107" SW, FOR SALE  "THE BUS"
63 SII 88"
65 SII 88", FOR SALE
66 SII 88"
69&71 MB U900s
86 MB 280GE
88 SAAB 9000

----------
From: 	lopezba@atnet.at[SMTP:lopezba@atnet.at]
Sent: 	Wednesday, October 02, 1996 9:38 AM
Subject: 	Questions for real specialist S I owners

All S I owners: two specialist questions.

Were the outer door handles on later S I's coated with black plastic, or =

were they just chemically blackened?

The parts catalogue lists a Bracket for towing attachments (part no =
265126)
for the 107" Station Wagon, but without a picture. Can anybody describe =
it?

Thanks in advance

Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------ =_NextPart_000_01BBB0AA.6F02BD40

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 10:36:56 +0200
From: Jody Scharrenborg <jody@cyberlab.nl>
Subject: Re: Questions for real specialist S I owners

>Were the outer door handles on later S I's coated with black plastic, or
>were they just chemically blackened?
On my 86" 1955 they are coated with black plastic, i'm not sure if that's
original.

greetings from Holland
Jody

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 09:51:00 +0100
From: "Geoffrey Said" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Subject: brakes

>From a while ago I am feeling the brake pedal sloppy.  The landrover brakes but 
the pedal is depressing much more than it was before.  The strang thing is that 
when the pedal is slightly depressed, released and then pressed again it feels 
as it was normal i.e good brake feeling without the pedal going down too much.  
I have also checked the brake oil level and is not decreasing.  At first I that 
that a wheel cylinder must be leaking but if so the oil would decrease and I 
dont think that after the first depress the pedal will get normal.

Any suggestions on what the cause might be?

Geoffrey
109" Series 3 diesel.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 09:58:00 +0100
From: "Geoffrey Said" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Subject: Chassis questions

Do outriggers often get cut off and replaced?

Is the last crossmember also prone to rust?

When a chassis is beyond help and cannot be repaired?

Geoffrey

------------------------------

From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: Chassis questions
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 11:27:43 +-100
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Geoffrey Said[SMTP:Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt] wrote:

Q:Do outriggers often get cut off and replaced?
A:Yes
Q:Is the last crossmember also prone to rust?
A:Yes
Q:When a chassis is beyond help and cannot be repaired?
A:It is possible to buy a complete new 
chassis, in black or galvanized

This is the most common problem in countries 
where the roads are covered with salt during 
the winter.

	Happy Rovering

Bent Boehlers
 110" 1983 V8, on its second set of outriggers 
and rear crossmember.

------ =_NextPart_000_01BBB11D.E73B1F00

------------------------------

From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 10:42:10 +0000
Subject: Re: Chassis questions

Quoting Geoffrey Said, from  3 Oct 96

> Do outriggers often get cut off and replaced?
Yes. Particularly the ones that hold the fuel tank in a SWB.  If the front 
outriggers have been replaced, you may lose the chassis number.
 
> Is the last crossmember also prone to rust?
Yes. The rear wheels neatly pack the crossmember with mud, which then 
rusts the crossmember.

> When a chassis is beyond help and cannot be repaired?
This ain't a question!

Chassis can be replaced with standard, dipped or gavanised replacements. 
Allegedly it takes 100hrs to do a chassis swap. The new chassis will not 
have a number stamped on it.

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

However strong my opinions are, they are mine and no-one elses.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 11:24:00 +0100
From: "Geoffrey Said" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Subject: RE:Chassis

I am asking this question because my truck 's chassis has had all outriggers 
replaced and rearcrossmember replaced.  Also some welding had to be done on the 
box sections themself, but nothing serious.  The truck drives very well and the 
a local welding shop said that the chassis was sound and that all the welding 
was professionally done.

Also some reenforcements where also added, particlulary near the forng spring 
attachment, that under the steering box and near the rear spring hanger, before 
the back wheels.

Is this normal to other landrover users in this list?

Geoffrey

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 71 lines 2755 [forwarded 191 whitespace 665]
 Output: lines 1948 [content 1125  forwarded 111 (cut  80) whitespace 624]

Land Rover Owner Subscription Information:

	* All new subscription requests are via the digest. *

In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked
Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved
(by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Useful commands for this are 'index lro-digest' which returns a list of
files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc.

World Wide Web Sites start at
	 http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/pages.html
(shadow) http://www.Senie.com/billc/lr/pages.html

If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have 
understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

  -B

Back	Forward
Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.