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Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 12:33:30 +0100 (BST)
From: "T. Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: stowing and using a Hi-Lift on a D90

 Michael McKeag writes...
>nose fits securely under the square profile of the front bumper, but
>what about jacking the rear? There's nothing but round tubing back
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>lots of possible arrangements with slings and hooks, etc., but I'd be
>interested to hear what actually works the field.

What you need is an adaptor to fit the hi-lift to the front and rear jacking
holes (under the front bumper, plugged with rubber bungs; round holes in
rear crossmember) You can buy them, or alternatively make one by welding a
length of 30mm diameter bar onto a suitable piece of heavy channel to fit
onto the jack toe. It makes things a lot more stable for wheel changing
etc., but still allows you to use the lift & push technique for getting out
of ruts and holes.
It also moves the pillar of the jack further away from the back of the
vehicle when in use, so you don't get gouges in the back door if everything
starts to move around a bit.
A thick plywood pad is easier to handle than a metal one for spreading the
jack load on soft ground.

Tom

Thomas D.I. Stevenson        gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station, Millport
Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland KA28 OEG

------------------------------

From: Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 13:02:15 +0000
Subject: Re:  Hi-Lift Jack

>>Incidentally, a Hi-Lift in the UK seems to cost about twice the
>>prices quoted from the US.  Serves us right for having access to

This is a perfectly normal US-UK real world exchange rate. In general 
you takee the US price. Change the dollar sign to a pund sign and 
that's teh UK price. If there is a discrepancy, the UK price will be 
even more expensive >:-[

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Oct 1996 08:09:42 -0700
From: karlsson@edgenet.net (karlsson)
Subject: Re: Difficult Announcement...

ericz@cloud9.net wrote:
> Dear all,
> As you may know, over the past few months I created Overland Motors as an
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 34 lines)]
> http://www.OverlandMotors.com  Fax: (914) 734-4352  Phone: (914) 734-4333
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sorry to hear you're giving it up, but glad it's for a worthy cause.  I'm 
still looking for a reasonably priced tailgate.

John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 07:40:03
From: CarDoctor@gnn.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: TR3 Carbs.

Hi All,
  I have been reading the thread about the tr3 manifolds & maybe fitting 
them to a 2.25 P.  I have a judson supercharger for an MGA project & found 
a guy who is in hemmings motor news that sells them.  If you use a 
supercharger it has a down draft carb like the LR already has.  Would this 
increase the top end speed?  Or just add power throughout the power curve?
 
Rob Davis_Chicago

Failure is not an option
Not on my watch.......

1971 (88)  Treeweaver
1965 (109SW)  OX
1968 (109 three door)  Dad's toy (only the caretaker)
1960 MGA Coupe
1961 MGA Roadster

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Oct 96 8:29:22 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Re: Alternate diesels in 88

I recommended this engine because there are hundreds of them laying 
around in local 'auto recyclers' and they're relatively easy to get 
spares for. As far as reliability...they're made by GM, so you pay yer 
money and 'ya take yer chance.
When I was in the military, these engines were just coming into use in 
the then-new CUCV. After a few months they had all developed various 
leaks. 
They do have a handy idiot light for the glow plugs.
PS. I think I may sill have a key for one (they're all the same) around 
here someplace....

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel.
Soon to be Triumph Trophy owner ?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Oct 96 08:45:23 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Play in Gears

jason Addison frets:

>>>> let me know where I can 
find it in the digests; or, even better, how I can search the digests for 
various topics.

Not very easily. I got on the real time list, since the digest only came as a 
read only file. Now I can save relevant messages to various folders for future 
reference. Am I just organized or WHAT??!!

>>>The following regards my '69 SW.

>>>>I've just finished rebuilding my gear box, transfer case, and front wheel 
drive selector 
Once the transfer case was finished I noticed when turning the output 
flange (right term?) there was some play in the gears (these looked very 
ice-like new?) Should these be tight?
The same story in the gear box but to a lesser extent. Again, should they 
be tight?

I think there is always some play in the gears. Youve got to get through a few 
pairs befroe you get drive, and also there may be play in the splines of the 
output shafts, sliding joints on the propshafts, and pinon drive flanges on the 
diffs. Not to mention U-joints... So there really is no way to get your drive 
train so tight that you won't get any "clunk" smooth clutch work is the biggest 
factor there. 

>>>> I.... can definitely hear the gears knocking each other 
when the power is applied and removed. (Normal? Bad? Acceptable?)

If it is actually the gears (check those UJ's) it's not much to worry about. 
While I question the wisdom of going to all the trouble of stripping a gearbox 
and then putting *anything* worn back into it, it's done and as long as it holds
up ok then don't sweat it. After all, you arten't going to take the damn thing 
out again just to get rid of a little slop, are you?. Didn't think so. Drive it 
till it breaks....

>>>>>Note that I replaced all bearings, oil seals, etc.; and cleand and kept 
clean everything. My roommates (amateur, but fairly experienced, 
mechanics) thought I was being rather obsessive.

All it takes is one speck of grit to bung it up. To hell with them. 

>>>>I was able to turn the input to my 
rear diff through very roughly 10-20 degrees before it wanted to turn the 
wheels.

This is normal, I've heard 45 degrees is the limit where things start getting 
funny. Or NOT funny, depending on how you look at it.

To sum it all up, I would have a look at the U-joints and sliding joints on the 
front and rear propshafts. Grab both sides of each joint and *firmly* try to 
rotate them in opposite directions. If you feel any movement whatsoever, the 
joint is done and should be replaced. Also check the bolts holding the props to 
make sure they are tight. Replace the locknuts if you remove the shafts.

Have fun...

Dave b

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Oct 96 09:26:27 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: LUCAS STRIKES AGAIN/LRNA TEST TRACK OPEN

A few tidbits from the past weekend.

I was up in New Jersey visiting my parents, and I dorve out to see a friend of 
mine. On the way back from his house, Saturday noght, it was pouring down rain, 
and I hit a huge puddle that swamped the ignition, forcing me to pull over as 
the engine had stalled. A quick look under the bonnet revealed a distributor 
that was dry as a bone, but the coil hot wire had a good amount of water on it, 
so I shook the water off and plugged ti back up. She started right up, and ran 
just fine...I missed a few turns afterwards, and began to get the feeling that 
it wasn't going to be a good night...less than two miles up the road I watched 
in amazement as my windsheild wipers stopped dead in their tracks. Despite all 
attempts to fix things by merely fiddling with them, they wouldn't come back on.
I ended up completing my trip with my face pressed up against the windshield. 
Later inspection revealed a broken wire on one of the brushes.
On my way back to VA, I stopped for gas in the wonderful FULL SERVE ONLY state 
of New jersey, where the guy proceeded to fill my gas tank to the very top of 
the filler neck. A**hole. (Sorry, but I just don't see the need to round off 
dolar amounts, especially when everyone pays with a charge card) So I drove for 
about twenty miles or so until the level receeded below the leak in the vent 
hose, and then mopped up the fuel soaked mud behind the passenger seat. I then 
went on my merry, sick-to-my-stomach-from-the-overwhelming-fumes way. 
Last night, I pulled apart the wiper motor, and tested it a few times on the 
battery. It ran, it ran, it ran again. Okay. Great. Super. Ron O'day came over 
with his 88", so that we could go to his mom's house and tear apart his t-fer 
case. Okay. He asked if my winch was working yet. "No, but I've got most of it 
wired up, check it out" Nothing. Well, not exactly nothing. A few clicks and 
then nothing. One DEAD battery. Jump started the beast and drove the twenty 
miles to his mom's house, with only the sidelights on, and trying to keep the 
revs up. Got to our destination and it was still dead. So nowe Ive got his 
battery, and his t-fer case is all over the garage floor...

Also, in a mostly unrelated event, on my way back from this fiasco, I ran into 
my neighbor who is a frequent off-roader and is on one of the local e-mail 
lists. Seems the LRNA test track in Bowie MD is OPEN TO THE PUBLIC!!!! He and 
his buddies have been going there rather frequently, and it sounds like a blast.
I'll be going next week sometime. Could be time to invest in some better 
headlights, since weekdays are the only time its not crowded. Should be lots of 
fun in the winter too...oh boy oh boy oh boy oh boy...city boys finally get to 
go off roading without tearing up somebody's lawn. Well, maybe LRNA's but they 
shouldn't care. Chad (my neighbor) said they ran into LRNA people *once*. Him 
and his buddies were towing out some junked trucks that were in the way. LRNA 
folks were way happy about that.

Cheers
Dave B
Arlington VA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Oct 1996 09:34:12 -0400
From: "johnsonm (wk)" <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: TR3 Carbs.

Robert Davis wrote:
> I have a judson supercharger for an MGA project & found
> a guy who is in hemmings motor news that sells them.  If you use a
> supercharger it has a down draft carb like the LR already has.  Would this
> increase the top end speed?  Or just add power throughout the power curve?

>From my understanding, if you could put a Cadillac 500ci under the hood,
you would still only go 70 to 75 at best.  Unless you change the ratios
in tranny and/or diffs.
-- 
Michael E. Johnson
http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm
johnsonm@rl.af.mil  (work)
johnsonm@borg.com   (play)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 07:07:07 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Dormobile spice rack mounting?

This is a question for people who own Dormobiles that have the stock spice
rack installed.  I am ready to mount the spice rack and there looks to be
at least two ways that it could be done.  I'm hoping that some kind soul
will go out and look at their car then describe the proper mounting.

REFERENCE TERMS:

The hard top has a flange at the inside edge where it bolts to the side.
The spice rack screws to this flange.

The spice rack has downward facing flanges at the back and left side.
There is a end on the right side shaped to match the curve of the hard top.
This goes up against a rib on the hard top and is held to the rib by a
single screw.

There is a plastic trim strip that covers the cout out in the hard top for
the pop up top.  This plastic strip hangs down a little.

THE QUESTIONS

The flange on the spice rack screws to the flange on the hard top.  What
side of the top flange does the rack flange fit?  On the inside, the top
would support the weight of the spice rack and contents.  But you normally
screw the movable part to the fixed part.

On the outside, only the tiny screws support the weight, but it makes more
sense to screw it in this way.  An alternative would be one flange out and
one flange inside (the corners are not joined).

WHich brings me to the end piece. There are no cuts in the end or the
plastic strip to allow the spice rack and plastic strip to cross over.
This insinuates that the spice rack end fits completely behind the plastic
strip.  I can get it behind the strip, but there doesn't seem to be enough
clearence to get the spice rack to fit flat.  I've tried to fit it a couple
of times and have not figured out how to get the clearence to get
everything to fit properly.

I know this sounds a little anal retentive for someone who just has a bunch
of Dormobile parts and not an original Dormobile, but I want to get the
mounting correct.

Anyone want to take pity on an obviously daft ol'lady and go out & look at
the spice rack mounting then write it up for me?

Thanks

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

From: ben@bell-labs.com
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 1996 10:21:14 -0400
Subject: '84 RR -should I?

I am looking at a '84 RR, 5-speed (LT-270?) , proper paperwork.
Needs a tranny rebuild, asking $5000.  Should I? Could I get my money
back?
I dunno.. maybe I'll just stick w. my 109..

comments?

Also, can't find any Hi-Lifts locally for under $60 (Jackall), the
Hi-Lift is $75, Lincoln 48" is $109!!!  We don't have proper farm/garden
stores here, I guess.. too bad.

And... just found a spare tire carrier that mounts under the rear
cross-member, has its own pivot and lock, pivot's on the right.
I think it's made for Nissan, so some cut'n'weld is in order, but.. the
tire won't be hanging on the door, and I can switch door<->tailgate
easier.  Cost $30 at a swap meet, I think they're $200 new from
JCWitless.
rgds
Jan

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Oct 96 10:19:10 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: TR3 Carbs.

Somebody wrote:

>From my understanding, if you could put a Cadillac 500ci under the hood,
>you would still only go 70 to 75 at best.  Unless you change the ratios
>in tranny and/or diffs.

Doubt that. My SIII 2.25 will do 65 easily and probably 70 if you don't mind 
wanging your engine out. This is without an OverDrive.

 If that's possible with something like 70 hp, then I could only imagine 
(besides the broken diffs, driveshafts and gearbox) what would be possible with 
horsepower in the triple digits (ooh, exciting)

Dave b.

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS)
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 1996 10:41:03 -0500
Subject: Re: #%*&@~&# City ordinances

You could move to the inner city, like me. Cops around my house are too   
busy with more important matters than eye sores (they *wish* that's all   
they were dealing with...). Except you'd have to keep everything chained   
to the driveway or the scrap cruisers will liberate anything metal...

Seriously, though. I rented a neighbor's double garage for the winter in   
exchange for my single garage and a fresh loaf of bread a day (love that   
bread machine). Not saying you could find the same kind of deal, but   
maybe an elderly person or someone in the area that no longer drives   
would be interested in an extra $25 and a little conversation every   
month. Believe me, nothing beats having the two trucks side by side and   
out of the elements for doing a frame over. Just getting out of the wind   
saved my butt.

Tim
 ---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 08:41:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (Clinton D. Coates)
Subject: Sereis 1 parts

The series one is down the lane from me in Kamloops, British
Columbia, Canada (north of Washington).  The 88/86 is in
Quesnel, same provvince.  I haven't talked to the guy for the
88 yet.  It will be 2-3 weeks before I can do that.  I have dibs
on the 80" stuff down the lane, so back off!   :-)

If you have a later 86/88, I wonedr if ICBC could tell the 
difference between a 2l diesel and a 2.25 L deisel for 
collector plate status?

Clinton "contemplataing financial ruin" Coates

--
 __x___x_  /    Clinton D. Coates  uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca    
|__|__|__\/__   
|     |   |_ |  *Emerson* 61 lwb pickup.....mostly runs
  (_)"""""(_)"  *If it doesn't leak, its not a Land Rover*

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 08:45:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (Clinton D. Coates)
Subject: Pinzgaur power

Thanks, but no need for info on the flat 6.  

However, do the MB truck engines use the same block/head as 
the MB car engines?  I have no Idea about parts availabiliyt,
buyt someone with deep pockets might have a blast rebuilding
one of these....

Clinton

PS, saw a SWB? unimog at a mining scrapheap in Savona last
week.  Maybe I will graft the portal axles onto the 80.........

--
 __x___x_  /    Clinton D. Coates  uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca    
|__|__|__\/__   
|     |   |_ |  *Emerson* 61 lwb pickup.....mostly runs
  (_)"""""(_)"  *If it doesn't leak, its not a Land Rover*

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 10:36:39 -0500
From: "il01 tower gateway 1%T1MGW" <il01_tower_gateway_1%T1MGW@email.mot.com>
Subject: Undeliverable Mail

Message: Re: TR3 Carbs.
Sent: Tue, Oct 1, 1996 9:31 AM
On Server: IL01 Corp Quality
Date: Tue, Oct 1, 1996 10:31 AM
Reason: Could not be delivered because the destination Microsoft Mail server 
could not be found.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 18:21:05 +0200 (MET DST)
From: dolf van mil <dolfvmil@cistron.nl>
Subject: Re: Re: Taylor? Taylor? ANYONE?

>By the way, my spring builder company said he didn't have the rubber bushes
for 
>the shocks anymore but that they were the same as used on lod 
>International 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks in the 50s.  Does anyone know a part 
>number or common source?  Dave VE4PN

Well I have found the parts.  
Land Rover part number  : 552819 
        description     : BUSH

------------------------------

Date: 01 Oct 96 08:50:12 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Re: maiden voyage

>>For the first time in my life i had the"pleasure" of driving a landrover, a
>>III/109/ST. If they all behave like this there must 100.000's of madmen.
>>The thing was swerving form one side of the road to the other. The owner

>        Don't believe it!  I had a '61 109 SW (I miss her still) and she
>tracked straight as an arrow, one hand on the wheel, at 65 on the highway.
>I would suspect steering relay needed oil or perhaps rebuilding.  If he was

I think we have two extremes here. I'd say it's relatively common for a
109 to handle, well, 'boat-like' unless everything suspension- and steering-
wise is in perfect condition, which it rarely is. But 'swerving from side
to side' would indicate that something has gotten out of hand, and it's
certainly not normal. A lot of things can add up over time: Play in steering
box, 'tilting' steering relay, loose drop-arm, rod ends, swivel pin preload,
alignment, hub bearings, bent track rod, uneven spring load, sloppy spring
shackles (also of rear axle!), poo-poo tires...  All things which can be
corrected at relatively little cost *if* you can do the work yourself.
But be warned that some of it is very hard knuckle-skinning work.

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 18:56:02 +0200
From: pwakefie@esis.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield - System Manager (SERCO) X492)
Subject: Call of the wild

Hello Fellow LR's

Okay, I've been here (silent) for far too long now, now I want to POST !

Sorry for the replies to old posts, but I have been getting the latest digests 
for a few weeks (and for some months before that) but have not yet had the 
chance to reply.

RE: Database

VIN,year,type,size,name,color,current location,country,shape,original dealer,
e-mail,lro-net,notes

UNK,1976,III,109,The Truck,Bronze Green,Liverpool,UK,dd,private 
sale,pwakefie@mail.esrin.esa.it,lro-net,Ex Military, LR in UK Owner In Italy :-( 

RE: Crownwheel bolts, are the loosening of these only confined to the 'rover' 
diff ? Mine has single rear Salisbury (ex MOD)

RE: Accidents, I had an unfortunate one about two years ago, Raining outside= 
slippery floor=slippery shoes=temporary inability to keep one on brake pedal. 
Approaching red traffic lights, foot slips off brake when coming to a stop and I 
rear end car in front doing ~10 MPH, Damage to my vehicle 1cm square flake of 
paint off my front bumper, Damage to other vehicle 3500 GBP (owner unhurt but 
surprised)

RE: Clinton D. Coates Subject: turbo on a 2.25 diesel
>I have lost that posting. Are you still out there?  If so, I would love to get 
>a repost of the technical details.

It wasn't me but I saved the post as I was interested too ! I have posted the 
original copy directly as it's quite long. Does anyone else need the data ?

Regards, Paul W.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Oct 1996 19:20:56 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: What is a hi-lift?

I have followed the thread on hi-lifts with interest and amusement - but
maybe I have misunderstood something - most postings related to where to
put it, what it isn't, and where it won't fit - but someone (Dixon K.
Bill A. TeriAnn W?) help - what is a hi-lift when it's at home? And in
what way is it different to others of the same ilk?

maybe this is a successor to the aARBV locker for a posting in the
lexicon?

Thanks!
-- 
adrian redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
tel: +45 86 57 22 66  e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk

1:	Series III 1976 109" D Pick-up
2:	Series III 1979  88" D Hard top (Icelander)
---------------------------------------------------
"Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!"
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 13:30:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: What is a hi-lift?

On Tue, 1 Oct 1996, Adrian Redmond wrote:

> I have followed the thread on hi-lifts with interest and amusement - but
> maybe I have misunderstood something - most postings related to where to
> put it, what it isn't, and where it won't fit - but someone (Dixon K.
> Bill A. TeriAnn W?) help - what is a hi-lift when it's at home? And in
> what way is it different to others of the same ilk?

	Hi-lift = cheap American copy of a Jack-all (Canadian made,
	but cheaper to buy in the USA, while looking at prices last
	summer, the Hi-lift was cheaper in Canada that in the USA.  
	Makes sense eh)  Jack-all = "Truckers Jack", a licensed copy
	of the Jack-all.  

	Lifting mechanism on a Jack-all is a pretty simplistic affair.
	The Hi-lift is more complicated and from experience more of a pain
	to use.  (Have both here, Dale has a "Truckers Jack").  Jacks
	also differ in the fabrication of the upright bar.  Paddocks and
	others usually have a photo of one in LRO every month.  Also useful
	as a "winch" to pull yourself out of things if the regular one
	has gone south on you.

	Clear as mud eh...

	Rgds,

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  1 Oct 96 13:34:33 EDT
Subject: Re: What is a hi-lift?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Oct 96 9:20:40 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: original upholstery can kill...

...your a** on long trips.
All the upholstery and trim was covered in the quaintly titled "oatmeal" 
textured vinyl that we commonly refer to as elephant hide. It is very 
deeply textured as vinyl goes, but alas, the supply has all but 
disappeared. Even if you could find some original fabric, it's 30 years 
old and probably not much good by now anyway owing to ozone and UV and 
all that.
It would be a good idea to choose a covering material that will withstand 
the rigors of off-roading and general thrashing that these trucks 
commonly encounter, as well as the ability to take a good hosing out with 
the garden hose.
With this in mind, any good quality, heavy weight vinyl will suffice. You 
may also want to check out Cordura nylon, a duck-like material with a 
weatherproof coating on the back, or Sunbrella, a cordura that is treated 
to withstand constant UV for use as awning and boat cover material.
As long as they're apart, I'd replace the foam rubber with new and use a 
high-density foam for the bump strips along the roofline.
As to originality, anyone who knows these vehicles will understand that 
the seat covering material is a consumable, just like spark plugs and oil 
filters. What counts, as always, is practicality and functionality. 

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel.
Soon to be Triumph Trophy owner ?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Oct 1996 20:07:03 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: What is a hi-lift?

Dixon Kenner wrote:
> On Tue, 1 Oct 1996, Adrian Redmond wrote:
> > I have followed the thread on hi-lifts with interest and amusement - but
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 26 lines)]
>         Clear as mud eh...
>         Rgds,
THANKS DIXON - I knew I could rely on you to clear than one up - do you
mean we are talking about a vertical bar, with a footplate, and a rising
jack-arm which is wound up and down? Funny I thought it must be some
sort of hydraulic add-on. Anyway, it sounds as if it beats the stock LR
double screw bottle jack - I don't dare use those things if I can avoud
it in any way!

By the way, last time you wrote you talked of the Red Green show - what
is that?
-- 
adrian redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
tel: +45 86 57 22 66  e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk

1:	Series III 1976 109" D Pick-up
2:	Series III 1979  88" D Hard top (Icelander)
---------------------------------------------------
"Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!"
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 14:12:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: What is a hi-lift?

On Tue, 1 Oct 1996, Adrian Redmond wrote:

> THANKS DIXON - I knew I could rely on you to clear than one up - do you
> mean we are talking about a vertical bar, with a footplate, and a rising
> jack-arm which is wound up and down? Funny I thought it must be some

	Basically, that's it.  Pair of pins move up/down and lock into the 
	holes in the vertical bar.

> By the way, last time you wrote you talked of the Red Green show - what
> is that?

	Hmmm, this is a tough one to describe.  A programme, originally 
	produced for TV Ontario (Made in Hamilton, Ontario actually),
	now on PBS in the USA.  ABout a chap out in a rural area who 
	seems to have a fixation with duct tape, friends with some pretty
	screwball ideas...  Hard to describe, but rather amusing.  Someone
	else (Mike Smith?) could probably do a better job describing the 
	show.  Have to think on this one <ouch>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 11:19:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (Clinton D. Coates)
Subject: Vibrating oil pressure needle

The needle on my oil pressure gauge has started to vibrate 
rapidly sometimes.  Previous to my last oil change, the needle
was rock steady at 60psi, lowering steadily to 40psi at idle.
Could this be caused by an an improperly installed/faulty
filter?  Sometimnes when I stop the engine, then restart it, the
needle remains steady for a few minutes.  The motor also starts to 
run irregularly at idle, pitching the needle down into the 20s and
30s psi .  I have checked the idle jet and setting and all
is clean.

Ideas?

Clinton"no more leaks than usual"Coates

--
 __x___x_  /    Clinton D. Coates  uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca    
|__|__|__\/__   
|     |   |_ |  *Emerson* 61 lwb pickup.....mostly runs
  (_)"""""(_)"  *If it doesn't leak, its not a Land Rover*

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 11:34:17 -0700
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: #%*&@~&# City ordinances

At 10:49 PM 9/30/96 -0400, you wrote:
>on behalf of the municipality, there must be a way to get yourself out of
>this:

Michel Bertrand offered some really good advice (I especially like the
washing the car suggestion).  I'd like to add an experience I've had. 

First, I had a dead citroen (now brought back to life -- Thanks Jory!)
sitting in front of my house for 3 or 4 years, and a Chevy Van (I miss you
Sweet Pea!) before that.  One of 'em got towed at one point, because it was
sticking out too far and was "on public property".  (Never mind that the
sidewalk is actually private property that the homeowner is forced to
maintain!)  Moving it closer to the house solved that problem.  Of course,
this was in a neighborhood populated more by beat-up buicks than beemers.

I used to have a fair dinkum recording/rehearsal studio in a basement room
of htat place.  At one point, a housing inspector came by to check for
illegal apartments (he missed, that was two doors up).  Not finding
anything, he was (I guess) rather disappointed, so he said that my studio
was illegal and I had a week to dismantle it.  

Rather than doing that, I rung up his office (making sure I didn't get him)
and asked if there were limits on what I could do in my garage.  The answer
was not really, as long as it wasn't dangerous, noisy, or otherwise
disturbing to the neighbors.  (Mind you, I never produced anything better
than interesting noise, but I did keep the volume low and the room was well
soundproofed.)  I then asked specifically about musical gear, and was told
that was fine.  It was my basement, I could do what I wanted.  

So then I wrote a letter to the guy and basically told him it was my party
and I could do what I wanted and to piss off.  (Nicer than that, but you get
the idea.)  

My advice, therefore, would be to really check around, find out what the
real story is, then see if you can find someone official (i.e., gov worker)
who interprets things they way you want them too, and get their name and
quote them.

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Oct 1996 11:32:00 -0700
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: unsubscribing instructions

Could someone e-mail me (bartlett@slip.net) unsubsribing instructions.
I need to disconnect another address (jjbpears@ix.netcom.com) before
terminating that miserable god..mm mf'ing service.

TIA

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Oct 1996 20:52:26 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Vibrating oil pressure needle

Clinton D. Coates wrote:
> The needle on my oil pressure gauge has started to vibrate
> rapidly sometimes.  Previous to my last oil change, the needle
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> 30s psi .  I have checked the idle jet and setting and all
> is clean.
> Ideas?
If we're talking hydraulic pressure gauge (oil pressure pipe from engine
block to gauge) then I can't help you, but if it's electrical
(hydraulic transducer on oil filter/motor block connected electrically
to a galvanometer on the dash) then I may be able to help - I had this
problem just last week.

It turned out to be a faulty earth connection for the meter negative.

This means that the motor is OK, just the meter can't be trusted -
always the best way with oil pressure!

Hope this may help!

-- 
adrian redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
tel: +45 86 57 22 66  e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk

1:	Series III 1976 109" D Pick-up
2:	Series III 1979  88" D Hard top (Icelander)
---------------------------------------------------
"Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!"
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 15:01:07 -0400
Subject: Overland Motors

I must have missed Erics post regarding  the fate of OM.
.Could someone please fill me in...
Thanks
Rgds
Steve

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 10:54:30 -0500
From: "il01 tower gateway 1%T1MGW" <il01_tower_gateway_1%T1MGW@email.mot.com>
Subject: Undeliverable Mail

Message: Dormobile spice rack mounting?
Sent: Tue, Oct 1, 1996 9:37 AM
On Server: IL01 Corp Quality
Date: Tue, Oct 1, 1996 10:49 AM
Reason: Could not be delivered because the destination Microsoft Mail server 
could not be found.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Oct 1996 12:32:48 -0700
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: Re: Vibrating oil pressure needle

IMHO: If the oil pressure is really fluctuating as the gage indicates (as 
opposed to a fault in the gage itself), then I'd worry about something 
serious happening inside the engine. Things that come to mind are: oil 
pickup loose and sucking air, broken/worn/slipping oil pump drive, Oil pump 
about to drop into sump, plugged oil filter (so the relief valve is causing 
the fluctuations), plugged oil passage somewhere, cam chain tensioner 
loose/failing, cam chain flopping too much, loose cam sprocket about to fall 
off, loose bearing shell somewhere, or my own vehicles' diagnosed problem; 
evil spirits. Is the vibration occurring in resonance with specific rpms? 
Have you called a Priest? To the best of my knowledge, the idle jet does not 
directly effect the oil pressure, although I have a diesel now and may be 
ignorant of such things. I would not advise driving it until the cause is found.

Best of luck
John Ousterhout 109 deezil "Safari-SoGoodi"
>The needle on my oil pressure gauge has started to vibrate 
>rapidly sometimes.  Previous to my last oil change, the needle
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
>|__|__|__\/__   
>|     |   |_ |  *Emerson* 61 lwb pickup.....mostly runs

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Oct 96 11:26:56 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Just stuck my head in there....

...at Land Rover of Rockville, MD. They had an interesting T-shirt 
collection, one being a S2A 88 with surrounding text a-la 
"go-anywhere-built-to-take-it...blah, blah, blah...." Of course they 
weren't priced and the showroom staff was busy showing the Yupsters the 
Yupmobiles, so I can't give you all a price. I also spotted 
Christmas/Channukah gifts for some unnamed people. I was surprised at the 
large selection of Officially-licensed "accessories" (need a >really< 
expensive Mag-Light?) Don't hesitate to drop by your local dealer 
sometime, even if it is to smear your greasy feet on the fine Land-Rover 
motif carpets.

One of their sqweeky-kleen salesmen said my truck was "really showing its 
age" and asked if I was going to get it painted soon......HOLD ME 
BACK!!!!

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel.
Soon to be Triumph Trophy owner ?

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 01 Oct 96 13:03:42 MST
Subject: Land Rover Heater Hoses - and more!

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
TOTALLY AGREE!!!!

1st time I overheated, blew a hose - blew head gasket. had a valve job
done since heads came off anyway. Discovered a flat cam lobe, replaced
cam & lifters, timing chain, gears, heater hoses too. (much easier with
intake off, head(s) off)

2nd time - gauge "lied" to me. I remember thinking to myself "gee!
Usually I have to turn off the A/C when going up these mountains! Must
have fixed the "running hot" problem." But NO! All of the sudden, loss
of power, then engine dyeing, and then water dripping out the exhaust
when I crank the engine trying to start it. When I saw the water
dripping out while cranking I knew that it wasn't going to go under it's
own power anytime soon. Diagnosis: cylinder head warped .012".
(Currently waiting for funding to rebuild engine... Anyone care to
contribute to the "get Dave's Rover fixed" fund?) ;-)

Does anyone know the maximum allowable that a cylinder head can be
milled? I kind of need to know sometime soon!!!

And while I have your attention, does anyone know of a crank kit for the
RR that provides a longer stroke? Couldn't hurt performance any...

Thanks, Dave (headless, at the moment) Brown

Send cash, check, or money order to:
  Dave Brown - fix the Rover fund
  903 W. Jerome Cir.
  Mesa Arizona USA 85210

Or, send an action photo of your Rover!

What lies behind us and what lies    #=======#         _____l___
before us are tiny matters compared  |__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___
to what lies within us.              | _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ _ _|}
Ralph Waldo Emerson                  "(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)
=========================================================================
From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 14:39:30 -0400
Cc: tonyb@ejv.com
Subject: Land Rover Heater Hoses

>About two weeks ago I have decided to change all four heater hoses on
>my 89 Rover.  So as usual I called DAP to order a set.  What I didn't
>know was the price for them, $75 for a set of lousy four heater hoses?
>I was determined to find a cheaper source.

AB has all 4 for $69

>As we were working on the Rover, I started to tell him my story
>of $75 hoses.  He laughed and said he never bought factory heater
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>So this Sunday I swapped remaining three hoses with a generic 3/4 inch
>hose.  Sure some tight bends are somewhat kinked, but it works.

I like to save money as much as the next guy, but I don't think that risking
ruining an engine to save ~$70 is worth it.  The Rover V8 is very sensitive
overheating and it is easy to warp a head if it gets too hot (ask Dave Brown
and others on the list).  I don't have a degree in hydrodynamics, but I think
that most of us will agree that less water will flow through a kinked hose
than an OEM bent hose.  The kinked hose will likely work fine now, but you
may have a problem towing up hill on a hot day with the AC on.  The '89 still
has the smaller expansion tank, so you don't have the greatest cooling system
to start with.

Kevin Kelly
'89 Range Rover
With OEM hoses (and a 2nd set in back) that still spits coolant out of my
newly hot tanked and soldered expansion tank with a new cap when towing on
hot days.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 13:03:56 -0700
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: original upholstery ?

At 10:07 PM 9/30/96 -0500, you wrote:
>I have run across a gentleman who does upholstery work in his spare time 
>as a hobby.  He saw my rover and offered to re upholster it for a very 

Make it work for you.  Doesn't need to be original, unless you're really
into keeping your rover 100% original.  But one of the really cool things
about Land Rovers is how customizable they are.  So go to it.  (Just,
please, no hot pink with yellow and brown stripes...)

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 01 Oct 96 14:46:16 MST
Subject: City ordinances against "inoperable vehicles."

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
I had a similar incident, but the city inspector warned me on 2 visits,
and I have since fixed the Rover. In my case, I think it was the
@#$%$%-& neighbor next door that complained. Tolerable guy, until he
starts drinking, when he turns into the biggest A** you'd ever care to
meet! Unfortunately this is a daily transformation. :-(

I have a 109 frame in my garage, and want to do a frame swap on my 109.
Has anyone done it in a standard garage? 8' ceiling. How did you do it?
Did you remove the top?

Thanks,

What lies behind us and what lies    #=======#         _____l___
before us are tiny matters compared  |__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___
to what lies within us.              | _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ _ _|}
Ralph Waldo Emerson                  "(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)

------------------------------

From: RALPH@SMUGGITS.MHS.CompuServe.COM
Date: 01 Oct 96 16:35:07 EDT
Subject: What oil in Rangie transfer box?

Dear all,

My 101 is at the Garage at the moment having some work done on the 
transfer box. I have always believed that it uses 20/50W engine oil, as 
per the gearbox, but they assured me that it was EP90 (they asked me to 
provide the oil (to save me money?) but will supply the EP90 if required. 
I think they are wrong about this. The 101 has the early 4 speed LT95 box 
with integral transfer box. I have to pick it up tomorrow, so prompt 
replies would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Ralph

101 FC.

------------------------------

From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: What oil in Rangie transfer box?
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 08:57:49 +0930 (CST)

> I have always believed that it uses 20/50W engine oil, as 
> per the gearbox, but they assured me that it was EP90 (they asked me to 
> provide the oil (to save me money?) but will supply the EP90 if required. 
> I think they are wrong about this.

Ralph, You're right they are wrong.... unless of course the 101 LT95 is 
different to all the others. (unlikely considering that the lt95 was 
developed for the 101 and then used in other applications as an economy 
measure)

If you have a manual, take it with you otherwise get them to look up the 
reccomended oil for an early 4sp rangie.

If they still insist on using EP 90 (or have already filled it and wont 
drain at their expense)  get them to agree to replace the 
transfer case thrust washers when they get eaten by the high sulphur EP 90.

It is possible to use EP 90 in a lt95 IF non factory thrust washers are 
used, (ie ones that are tolerant of high sulphur oils) , there was a 
place here in OZ selling such things at some stage..

There was a longish and highly factual discussion about this some time 
back but unfortunately I dont recall all the details, just the important 
bit, dont use gear-oil in a LT95

Aint it fun dealing with repairers who cant read manuals and data sheets...

best of luck

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 19:50:21 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Mid-Atlantic Rover Rally

Going off-line for a day.  I'll be back on line from Penlan Farm Thursday.  
The rally can also be reached at <LR88@aol.com>.  

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Oct 96 00:21:00 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: RE: What is a hi-lift?

Your parts have arrived. 

Do you have those windscreen heater vents ?????????

You just can't leave this winching out Range Rovers alone can you. 

Mark

----------
From: 	Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus
Sent: 	Tuesday, October 01, 1996 1:34 PM
Subject: 	Re: What is a hi-lift?

When the wretched thing's at home it's more of a nuisance, actually..

A high-lift jack is a poor man's winch. It's a jack with a small footprint and 

4-to-5 foot lifting capacity, typically used for vehicle extraction in 
difficult situations.

With accessories they can also be used to pull vehicles and other heavy loads, 

as well as work as a clamp or vise in emergency situations.

Lovely toy, actually, if you've the need for one. I have a winch, myself, so I 

don't carry one.

  aj"Hauled out another Range Rover last weekend, in fact..."r 

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 20:06:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Mid-Atlantic Rover Rally

In a message dated 96-10-01 19:52:41 EDT, you write:

>Going off-line for a day.  I'll be back on line from Penlan Farm Thursday.  
>The rally can also be reached at <LR88@aol.com>.  

Sandy;
    Hope you have a great time!! 
maybe I'll be able to join you next year
Keeping  the list updated from the rally site, great idea
Have fun
Rgds
Steve Bradke

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Oct 96 00:27:36 UT
From: "David Lee" <DJFLee@msn.com>
Subject: RE: Cost of Spares UK vs US

Steve Paustian wrote:

>What do they cost in Scotland?  Maybe we could do some trading of
>parts and accessories?  Might be worth looking into.  I could send you the
>best of the Yankee stuff and you could send me Landie stuff...  Screw the
>tax man... up the Rebels!

The Hi-Lift (Jackall 8000) I just bought came to £49 + £10 for the top clamp. 
My experience in the US is that generally you can buy tools rather more 
cheaply than we can here. I buy most of my Landie spares from Paddock, they 
advertise in LRW and LRO. So far they have been excellent. You can contact 
them at:
The Showground, The Cliff, Matlock, Derbyshire, DE4 5EW
Tel +44 01629 584499 - you may have to delete the first 0.
They can send you a Series spare catalogue.
Examples of prices:
BFG Trac Edge 750.16   £75
LWB Diesel rear springs £37 genuine
Bonnet spare wheel carrier  £23.50
These prices are plus 17.5% VAT in the UK
Sorry if this seems like an advert - I don't have shares. There are a number 
of similar companies in the UK all of whom seem genuinely keen to help.
Perhaps it may be worth importing personally, certainly some of the US prices 
I have heard discussed here seem huge!
As to the Rebels?   Dreadfully sorry dear boy, I'm English - just here for the 
rain dontcha know.

Dave Lee
SIII 109 Safari
Triumph TR2
Kinloss, Scotland 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 18:19:39 +0200
From: nahari ofir <ofir_n@parker.inter.net.il>
Subject: RE: thanks for info

At 05:24 PM 9/30/96 -0700, you wrote:
>------ =_NextPart_000_01BBAEF5.C84F95A0

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>	Where is this guy parting out the S1s? and is that 88" also being parted
out? Thanks in advance.
>----------
>David Mercer
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 53 lines)]
>------ =_NextPart_000_01BBAEF5.C84F95A0--
>hello
I don't know what do you mean exactly, but I'm doing now full rebuilt on
my 51' 80" sI & 64 88' sII also aboat to get two more sI (1951).

Ofir
Israel

e-mail: ofir_n@inter.net.il

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 22:18:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Mid-Atlantic Rover Rally

On Tue, 1 Oct 1996, rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) wrote:

Sandy,
As you know by now, I'm closing up shop.  I've got a bunch of stuff I'd like to 
unload and I was wondering if you had any objections to me bringing it down to 
the ROAV rally and laying it out by my truck.  I understand this is short notice 
but it would be a great help if you could get back to me before thursday.

Thanks,
Eric

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 00:04:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu>
Subject: Re: Dormobile spice rack mounting?

won't a salt shaker sit on just about any horizonal surface??

Russ W.
   salt is good food

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Oct 1996 22:22:31 -0700
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Source of parts in Canada

For those in Canada in particular, Malcolm Engleman at Onaway Alberta is 
now in the Land Rover parts full time.  He used to just supply things 
when he took a wreck apart but now he has new and used.  I mention this 
because the other day I mentioned I couldn't find the rubbers for the 
shocks locally.  I found them with Malcolm :-)  Now I can complete the 
job I started last week.  
On another topic.  For those covering their Land Rover seats in Canada in 
particularly where it gets very cold, you might want to use snowmobile 
seat material.  It doesn't crack in the cold and it wears like iron.  I 
used it on the door panels and walls and it looks like new after a tough 
winter last year.  
Has anyone tried that stuff advertised on TV where they run a vehicle 
without oil for 400 miles, or cut the rad hose and throw in some sand?  I 
have always suspected that if it was that good the military would have it 
in all their vehicles in case a crank case got shot up.  I would like to 
hear from people who have tried it.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

From: iharper@afm.org
Subject: Servo/vacuum problem
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 96 00:18:23 EST

To all that offered suggestions to my "brake servo it must be punctured 
because the timing is advancing when I stop" problem, many thanks.

Unfortunately, WRONG........  As with all things Rover, it has a mind of 
its own.  I disconnected the servo and plugged the hose (it's a little 
more difficult to execute those flawless stops) and the problem still 
existed.  AHA....it must be in the vacuum line from the carb, so I 
disconnected and plugged it.     AGAIN, when I stop the distributor 
advances.   Well let's just try something.   I scooted down my driveway 
backwards, all of 30 feet, and as I applied the brakes, the timing 
RETARDED.  (double meaning here)

It would seem to me, as explained in my grade 11 physics class (see this 
stuff comes in handy!)  that centrifugal force is at work here.  And I 
remember the phrase "centrifugal advance" from some LRO article in the 
past.

Will some one please tell me what to fix to get rid of this?  I'm standing 
by with the gaffers tape....

TTFN, Ian

---
 This copy of Freddie 1.2.5 is being evaluated.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 01:00:51 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: #%*&@~&# City ordinances

Paul Archibald sez...

>        I have been planning a frame-replacement on my 88" for a couple of
>months now.......
>        Last week I received a ticket for the chassis(abandoned,
>non-operating vehicle) in my drive-way! 
-

Ah, the old junk-vehicle ordinance... what a royal pain in the ass for
anyone in the old-car hobby.

>        What do I do? any ideas? I am really pissed off...
-

As well you should be! This is Amerika, after all!! The land where people
abandoned thier junk in thier front yards. Didn't you ever see those
ranch-houses with the broken wagon wheels in the front yard? Did you think
they put those wheels there on purpose?? Hell, no! That's where the wagon
broke! So they looked around and said "This'll do" and settled for what they
got. (Thats why they were called settlers...) 

Oh yeah, junk car laws...

>My options are, as I see them:
>A.      ignore ordinance-risk fines-penalty, possibly have vehicle
>inpounded(according to cop)
-

Not a good idea.. just gets people pissed off..

>B.      move to the country (farmers are allowed to work on their vehicles)
-
Now yer talkin'. Better yet, you live in that god-forsaken land called
California! The land of too-many-regulations. Move out of state! Go to some
place where people don't give a rats-ass about you restoring your landy!
Some people will even applaud your actions - after all, you are recycling!

>C.      find somewhere in S.F. south or east bay to do the work. (Lynn
>Helm's shop would have been perfect, but he is closing shop :^(
-
Naaaaaa...

>D.      Take it to an approved Fremont body-shop ( owners probably give the
>ordinance-writers a kickback!) spend mony I don't have etc... ( if I had
>that kind of money, I would trade it in on a D-90)
-
Only if you're heavy into self abuse... wait a minute, you own a Land Rover,
right? You gotta be into self-abuse. OK, scratch that idea.

>E.      sell all my "old clunkers", buy  #%*@*#&$ Jap-trash like all the
>other people.  NEVER!
-
Heretic! Blasphemer!

>F.      any realistic suggestions from y'all

Well.. you already let the cat out of the bag by having the frame in plain
view. Perhaps building a large fence, say 8 feet high around your property
first would have been in order. Out of sight, out of mind. You probably
pissed off some idiot neighbor who hasn't a clue as to what you are doing
and only sees the Rover as so much junk! 

I did my frameover in the back yard - out of sight of the general populace.
But then, my neighbors don't usually give me any grief. (Would you piss off
someone who bears a resemblence to Charles Manson??) 

Well.. good luck with it all.

Cheers
Mike Loiodice
166 W. Fulton St.                  1965 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Faded Green     
Gloversville                       1972 SerIII 88 Petrol - Fern Camo
NY  12078  (USA)        7          1971 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Red and Blue
                     #:-}>         1964 Triumph Spitfire - BRG

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 22:52:32 -0700
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Norm Thompson Catalog

Got home today, picked up my mail, and let out a yelp.  Right there on the
front of the Norm Thompson Catalog (clothing, gifts) was a NAS D110!  It's
sitting in a snow-covered clearing as its owners tie a christmas tree to the
top.  Pretty cool!

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de
Subject: SIII steering relais removal and swivelseal advice needed
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 09:42:36 +0200 (METDST)

Hi folks,
a nonnetted friend with a 1973 SIII 109 phoned me yesterday. He
has great problems to get out his steering relais (this thing
sticking in the front crossmember). The manual says pull it up,
maybe with the help of a rubber hammer. He has tried even some 
more brutal methods like a 3kg hammer and a jack, but it's still
in place :-{  Anyone got an idea?

He, too has a leaky swivel seal and does not want to take the
whole thing apart. Can someone who did the split seal trick
please give us advice?

One futher question: Is this truck supposed to have the holes
for the jack in the frame. We didn't find any. Neither front nor rear.

Many thanks,
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                 tbr1102@sunmail.lrz-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 08:58:40 +0000
Subject: Re: SIII steering relais removal and swivelseal advice needed

Quoting Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muench, from  2 Oct 96

> One futher question: Is this truck supposed to have the holes
> for the jack in the frame. We didn't find any. Neither front nor rear.
Nope.

The high-lift & bottle-jack both have to push up on the bumpers or the 
frame.

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

However strong my opinions are, they are mine and no-one elses.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Oct 96 10:21:49 
From: "Jens Vesterdahl" <jve@phaseone.dk>
Subject: Re: #%*&@~&# City ordinances

Hi all.

It looks like you're stuck between a rock and a hard place there, Paul. 
I don't know if it will solve your problem, but how about renting a tent while 
you are working on the frame. I guess you're allowed to have a tent in your 
driveway, and inside it you can probably do what you like without intervening 
officials. Just a thought. I don't know how your driveway looks and all that.

Happy Rovering.

Jens Vesterdahl
Copenhagen, Denmark
1972 109 STW

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Oct 96 10:51:18 
From: "Jens Vesterdahl" <jve@phaseone.dk>
Subject: Re: Tr3

Hi all.

Dixon Kenner wrote:

- PS.  Why is it just the Mini owners that can get 16 valve, crossflow
- double overhead cam heads for the 1275cc engine... :-(  Would go
- great on my '68 S though... :-)

Well, Dixon. Tell us exactly what's keeping you from putting a 16 valve, 
crossflow double overhead cam 1275cc engine in your LR. ;-)

Jens Vesterdahl
Copenhagen, Denmark
1972 109 STW

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 11:08:55 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: SIII steering relais removal and swivelseal advice needed

 Can someone who did the split seal trick
>please give us advice?

Sounds like me.....
Did it some weeks ago.Make sure that the length of spring inside
the new seal can be undone.Usually its just a case of finding
the join and carefully unscrewing the ends.WARNING!May be left
hand threaded,so be careful.Take a fine saw(I used a thing called
a jewellers piercing saw,basically a very fine coping saw)and saw
through the metal backing of the seal,AT AN ANGLE.Try to leave
as much of the rubber intact as you can.It wont be much,but do try.
When you've cut through the metal backing,cut whatever rubber you
have left with a Stanley,or craft knife.Twist the split seal over
the axle,and offer it up with the split at the top,having first
installed the length of spring.It will try to deform,you will just
have to persevere and hold it in position while you refit the
keeper plate.Not difficult(if I can do it,it *cant* be difficult)
and takes no time at all,provided the keeper plate bolts
come out OK in the first place.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 12:25:24 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@www.adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: What oil in Rangie transfer box?

RALPH@SMUGGITS.MHS.CompuServe.COM wrote:
> Dear all,
> My 101 is at the Garage at the moment having some work done on the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
> Thanks in advance,
> Ralph
> 101 FC.

Ralph,

Your 101 has the same drivetrain as my 109 2A. Believe me its EP90!

Paul

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