Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 Michel Bertrand [mbertra22Looking for 109 regular roofsides
2 Sanna@aol.com 15Re: Windscreen Wipers
3 "Tom Rowe" [trowe@aae.wi25Re: tire height
4 iharper@afm.org 21Series Database
5 "Adams, Bill" [badams@us11Re: Looking for 109 regular roofsides
6 "Bobeck, David R." [dbob12Re[2]: Looking for 109 regular roofsides
7 "Bobeck, David R." [dbob14Nice tires, man...
8 "Tom Rowe" [trowe@aae.wi26Re: Looking for 109 regular roofsides
9 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u33Re: Re[2]: Looking for 109 regular roofsides
10 "Tom Rowe" [trowe@aae.wi18Re: Nice tires, man...
11 "Stefan R. Jacob" [1000417Rollover fatality (was: the LRO)
12 M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mik15Re: Looking for 109 regular roofsides
13 "Adams, Bill" [badams@us17Re: Rollover fatality (was: the LRO)
14 "Bert P. Krages" [krages9Re: Tires
15 iharper@afm.org 21Vaccum Advance/Servo
16 rscholl@lib.com 59Roof Vent Dimensions
17 "Adams, Bill" [badams@us16Re: Nice tires, man...
18 iharper@afm.org 28Timing chain
19 QROVER80@aol.com 17Re: Vaccum Advance/Servo
20 [DV043@OASIS.CALPOLY.EDU31Uncl: thar she blows!
21 m8f@ornl.gov (M Scott Fu20Re: Roll Bar
22 "Tom Rowe" [trowe@aae.wi24Re: Roll Bar
23 Blair Gillespie [Gillesp20Re: Uncl: thar she blows!
24 "Bobeck, David R." [dbob33Re: Uncl: thar she blows!
25 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em22Re: Uncl: thar she blows!
26 Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A5Re: Uncl: thar she blows!
27 "John P. Casteel" [jcast24Re: Database enquiry?
28 "Bobeck, David R." [dbob49Re[2]: Uncl: thar she blows!
29 Faye Ogilvie [ogilvi@hge30Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
30 lopezba@atnet.at 20Re: Rope trick
31 lopezba@atnet.at 24Re: S I Club Fees
32 lopezba@atnet.at 19Re: 80" weight
33 Faye Ogilvie [ogilvi@hge30Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
34 Nathan Dunsmore [dunsmo141Re: Roll Bar
35 ericz@cloud9.net 15[not specified]
36 "Christopher H. Dow" [do49Re:
37 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em22Re: your mail
38 Uncle Roger [sinasohn@cr21Re:
39 ericz@cloud9.net 30Re: your mail
40 ericz@cloud9.net 16Re:
41 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em22Re: your mail
42 Sanna@aol.com 19Re: Fuel pump?
43 [@lucent.lucent.com 10Salisbury axles = Dana which??
44 12/4/95 [rsloan@titan.li41What your truck is for...
45 agscsmps@post.kosone.com15Re:Roofsides
46 Heather Dixon [hldixon@t18Re: Proper way to use Hi-Lift
47 Uncle Roger [sinasohn@cr24Re: What your truck is for...
48 Miroslav Belik [m.belik@53My Land Rover is going
49 "M. ABERCROMBIE" [maa08111wheel width
50 twakeman@scruznet.com (T15Re: Looking for 109 regular roofsides
51 "Ron Franklin" [oldhaven42Re: Formula for Springs
52 Wdcockey@aol.com 21Re: Roof vents: Trade top?
53 Kevin Isemonger [KISEMON32Why won't my speedo work????
54 "Franklin H. Yap" [FHYap16Re: Nice tires, man...
55 Wdcockey@aol.com 38Different springs: was Formula for Springs
56 rover1@sky.net (Steve Pa13Re: Nice tires, man...
57 Daryl Webb [dwebb@waite.38Re: My Land Rover is going
58 johnliu@earthlink.net 43Re: Uncl: thar she blows!
59 Steve MARGOLIS [sim1@cor36Looking forward (was Re: your mail)
60 etlgtr@etlxdmx.ericsson.26Series III Oil Leak
61 "Alan Cookson" [acookson37SWB shocks
62 Daryl Webb [dwebb@waite.28Re: Vaccum Advance/Servo


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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 08:10:12 -0400
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@InterLinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Looking for 109 regular roofsides

Well, the subject line says it all...

I am looking for a pair of 109 regular roofsides to make a pick-up into a
regular Hard top. I already have a top from a 4-door SW but I need the
roofsides. Does anybody have a set and are willing to sell/trade? Thanks.

from the townships....
Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca <<---- Note new address!

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From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 08:33:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Windscreen Wipers

>seem to recall that MG wiper
>blades are a match

I believe Beetle blades work too.

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
Middleton, WI  53562
1-800-373-7226

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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 08:14:15 -6
Subject: Re: tire height

Mike johnson writes:
snip
> http://tirerack.com they have really good prices on tires and shipping (also
-
I just took a look at their web site. If nothing else it's a good 
place to compare tire brands and sizes (although they don't appear to 
cary bias-ply) They also have a page with formulas for figuring how 
different tire sizes will affect your vehicle. They goodyear MT looks 
appealing to me. Doesn't cost a fortune and comes in load range C 
16". 

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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From: iharper@afm.org
Subject: Series Database
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 96 09:25:36 EST

John....sending this to the list instead of your address.  I sent the same 
info to you about 2 weeks ago, but on your latest update you had no 1955's 
so I gathered you did not get my info.  Here it is again.......

57133222,1955,S1,86,Green,Stratford 
Ontario,Canada,UR,?,iharper@afm.org,lro-net

25900112A,1972,88,Bronze Green,Sackville New Brunswick, Canada,UR,Cowie 
Motors Halifax,iharper@afm.org,lro-net

25903298B,1974,88,Bronze Green,Stratford 
Ontario,Canada,DD,?,iharper@afm.org,lro-net

---
 This copy of Freddie 1.2.5 is being evaluated.

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 96 9:39:38 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Looking for 109 regular roofsides

Aren't the 109 roofsides the same as 88 roofsides or am I a total idiot.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel.
Soon to be Triumph Trophy owner ?

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 96 10:05:02 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Looking for 109 regular roofsides

Bill wants to know:

Aren't the 109 roofsides the same as 88 roofsides or am I a total idiot.

Only on the StaWag...so, well, uh...yeahyeranidiot.:-)

Dave

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 96 10:09:30 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Nice tires, man...

Ok, I went to the same garage where I saw the 109 military, turns out its a 1980
something model year with a SIIa bod. Nice work, but a little heavy on the 
undercoating. This stuff is piled on thicker than elephant crap in a circus 
trailer. Id hate to be the unfortunate soul assigned with applying that stuff, 
or worse, de-applying it. Not nearly as neat as some of the older MOD trucks Ive
seen. Now on to the tires. They are Michelin 7.50x16 XCL's. Where does one 
obtain such a meaty slab o' rubber?

Dave B.

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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 09:08:17 -6
Subject: Re: Looking for 109 regular roofsides

> Aren't the 109 roofsides the same as 88 roofsides or am I a total idiot.

You're a total.... No, I won't say it. The 88 sides are the same,  
only shorter. Huh? Well, they're designed the same. So if 109 sides 
can't be found, 4 88 sides can be used to make two 109 sides.
Cut the front off two of them, cut the front off the other two 
leaving enough material to make up the difference, weld the pieces 
together, and reskin.

TeriAnn had a 109 regular top and sides for sale. Michel, maybe she'll sell 
*you* the sides alone, since you're in Canada. I'm just an ex-pat.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Looking for 109 regular roofsides
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 96 15:20:25 BST

> Bill wants to know:
> Aren't the 109 roofsides the same as 88 roofsides or am I a total idiot.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Aren't the 109 roofsides the same as 88 roofsides or am I a total idiot.
> Only on the StaWag...so, well, uh...yeahyeranidiot.:-)

What about a 100?

Yes, I like being difficult! :-)
Lastnight I saw someone wreck their roof on a 100. Yes, its a sort of DIY
job. The roof *was* very genuine looking - he did a very good job.
Shame about the tree though. He sort of slid down a rather steep slope.
The slide was partly sideways, so when the rest of us arrived on the scene
(after the lovely crash noise), he'd got into the "no-way out position".
Stuck on a steep slope 50-60 degrees? The slope isn't far, but at the foot
is a rather thick tree. The tree won.

He should be able to bang most of it back into shape - the main impact was
on one corner, and only one window broke. At least one of the alli sheets
was ripped and will need replacing. He was talking of truck-cabbing it,
so we'll see...
Pushed the whole of the hardtop forwards - even the windscreen was at an
unnatural angle!

Moral of the story - have a handbrake that works on 50/60 degree slopes...

Richard

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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 09:21:51 -6
Subject: Re: Nice tires, man...

> seen. Now on to the tires. They are Michelin 7.50x16 XCL's. Where does one 
> obtain such a meaty slab o' rubber?
>From your local Michelin dealer?

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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Date: 25 Sep 96 10:37:15 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Rollover fatality (was: the LRO)

> I have rolled an 88 at some speed with a reg hard top and myself and the
> passenger suvived unharmed (Amazing as we were stupid and not belted in).
> However, I do not drive a softtop with out at least a millitary type bar and

Apparently at one of the recent events at the Metheringham quarry (Lincs.,UK)
a Land Rover (w/rollcage, harness etc.) going up a steep slope slipped and
rolled, and the passenger sitting in front was killed (broke his neck).
So just keep in mind: 'Rolling your vehicle can be dangerous'... even with a
rollcage.

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 15:40:07 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Looking for 109 regular roofsides

Bill ses:
>Aren't the 109 roofsides the same as 88 roofsides or am I a total idiot.

Far be it from us......:-)
The *regular* 109 roofsides are the same as 88 but longer.I *think*
that 88 roofsides will fit the back bit(behind the back doors)of a
109 SW.
Is that a diplomatic reply or what?
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 96 11:31:16 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Rollover fatality (was: the LRO)

I hate to be morbid, and I'm sorry to hear somebody died trying to have 
fun, but I think we all realize these trucks are going to kill us. One 
way or another, either rapidly through direct physical violation or 
slowly, by years of tedious work, exposure to toxic materials and oils, 
worry over every new noise, illness due to drafty winter driving, 
constant hammering of the gluteal region or plain old exhaustion from 
pushing it off the highway one more time.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel.
Soon to be Triumph Trophy owner ?

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 07:33:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Bert P. Krages" <krages@teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Tires

        I have 265R85-16 tires on my Series I 88".  A wheel shop changed the
offset of the wheels by reversing the inner portion of the wheel and welding
it back in place.  This keeps the tires from rubbing on springs and
decreased the turning radius by about 20 feet.

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From: iharper@afm.org
Subject: Vaccum Advance/Servo
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 96 11:35:03 EST

Now that I finally have my engine tuned as I like it, I have noticed 
something rather odd, perhaps someone can tell me if this is supposed to 
happen.    As I brake, coming to a stop, I notice that the engine 
increases in revs, and I finally madew the connection that it is the 
vacuum on the brake servo that acts like vacuum from the carb and advances 
the ignition, thus speeding it up.   This seems rather odd, and is it 
supposed to happen like this or is something amiss?

I guess it serves me right for tuning it so that it behaves (almost) like 
a regular (!?) engine......

Thanks, Ian

---
 This copy of Freddie 1.2.5 is being evaluated.

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 96 11:45:52 EST
From: rscholl@lib.com
Subject: Roof Vent Dimensions

     For John Cooper:
     
     John, I decided to post this here so perhaps hints or corrections from 
     others may be added.
     
     First, understand I took these dimensions in the dark when I got home 
     - I would like to confirm them for you this weekend in the daylight.  
     I would hate to be responsible (even indirectly) for a mistake on you 
     roof.  I will re-submit these dimensions after I confirm them, 
     probably 9/30.
     
     Now, let me try to translate my cruse artwork into verbiage:
     
        The tropical skin is set in about 1 1/2" from the back roofline     
                                                (not the gutter)
     
        The back "Bubbles" stretch from 17 3/4" to 26 1/2" from back edge   
        of skin and they measure 10 7/8" in from the edge of the skin.      
        This places the flat region (lip) just over the outside ribs.
     
        The crease in the skin, where the roof breaks, measures 43 1/4 to   
        44 1/2 from the back edge of the skin.
     
        The front "Bubbles" stretch from 45 3/4 to 53 7/8 from the back     
        edge of skin and placed in-line with back "Bubbles" (10 7/8 in).
     
        The vents in the back measured 20 1/2" from the back edge of the    
        roof (not including gutter) and are cut in so the opening is even   
        with the inside edge of the outer ribs lip.
     
        The fronts are similar, measuring 28 1/2 back from front gutter     
        outside edge.
     
        I did not measure the distance the skin is set in from the sides or 
        front.  The sides did not lend themselves to this very well.
     
     If you would like, I will clean up my artwork and fax or snail-mail 
     (fax preferred) so you can enjoy my original Picasso!  It may help to 
     clarify the verbage (A picture is worth a thousand words - my artwork 
     may only be worth a few hundred).  Perhaps someone else will provide 
     some wisdom or morale support.
     
     You are aware that the skin is a single sheet of AL w/angle on back, a 
     few "S" supports on ribs, 4 bolts front, 4 bolts rear, 5 
     bolts/standoffs/rubber washers each side, and lots of pop rivets?  50 
     just on top layer, probably about 100 total.
     
     Anyway, please let me know what you decide but be careful.  Let me 
     re-measure & where did you get new vents?
     
     Ray
     rscholl@lib.com
     
     PS - have you thought about buying safari top instead?

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 96 11:43:28 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Nice tires, man...

Here are some websites that may have some tires of interest to Series 
owners:
http://www.dunloptire.com/tires/Radial_mud_rover.html
http://www.tirerack.com/tires.htm (for research, I don't recommend any 
dealers)
http://www.bfor.com/offroad/catalog/haulage/haulage.htm

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel.
Soon to be Triumph Trophy owner ?

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From: iharper@afm.org
Subject: Timing chain
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 96 11:35:04 EST

And while we're talking about tuned up engines,  I set the timing the 
other day, and when I set it statically, ie with the test light on the 
distributor and turning the crank till it lights, it timed out at about 
10-15 deg BTDC, while if I used the timing light, it showed up as 3-6 deg 
BTDC.  As I was getting alot of smoking, I advanced the timing to 0 deg by 
the light, and it disappeared, but this still meant that by the static 
method it was still about 10 deg BTDC. 
 
Any ideas as to the reason for the discrepancy? Could a worn timing chain 
be the culprit?  If so, how long can I leave it before I change it.   
Other than that it seems to be running very well, and if it ain't broke 
(by Rover standards) I don't want to fix it!!!!

I towed home my new (old) S1 last week and it pulled it 50mph up moderate 
hills!   BTW, I have noticed that it seems to like working, ie it only 
acts up when I'm driving down a paved road in ideal weather with nowhere 
in particular to be.......Hmmmm......

Cheers, Ian

---
 This copy of Freddie 1.2.5 is being evaluated.

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From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 12:18:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Vaccum Advance/Servo

I think that you will find that your idle mixture is a little rich and that
your brake booster vacuum diaphragm has a (small) hole in it.
So when you depress the brakes the booster leaks air into the intake leaning
the mixture and causing the engine to run faster. A possible check for this
is to disconnect and PLUG the hose going to the distributor. Then test drive.

Ps if there is no loss in performance you might want to check the operation
of the distributor advance.
Rgds Quintin Aspin

Still flogging those Spotted Owls

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Date: 25 Sep 96 09:55:02 PDT
From: <DV043@OASIS.CALPOLY.EDU>
Subject: Uncl: thar she blows!

From: John W. Henricks, Programmer/Analyst
      Institutional Studies
      01-309

Ulysses lives.  Thanks for all the responses about the 'Solex or timing'
problem.  It was a a partially obstructed main jet.  It's been cleaned out
and I'm off and running, except up hills of course.

I've another question.  I've noticed that when running the engine hard
it tends to blow oil out the breather cap on the filler tube.  Is this
indicative of another problem, or is there a baffle that is missing
from the tube to prevent this, or seeing that there is another breather
cap on the valve cover, could I purchase or fabricate a plate to cover
the filler tube access and just add oil through the other cap?

Any replies appreciated.

John

62 SIIA 109 HT 'Ulysses'

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Net:  jhenrick@calpoly.edu
Tel:  (805)756-5408
Fax:  (805)756-5292

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 12:53:28 -0400
From: m8f@ornl.gov (M Scott Fugate)
Subject: Re: Roll Bar

Chris inquires about roll bar sources...

I've never heard of a source for a ready made bar for an 88, but I had a
rather nice one fabricated at a local independent "J**P" shop.  Cost me less
than $100, I think.  I designed the thing, and explained it to the
proprietor, and he built it.  Mine bolts to the galvanized capping corners
behind the front seats, with braces to the seat boxes directly ahead of the
rear bench seats.  If I was really into extreme off roading, I'd want it to
go through to the frame, but my activities are likely to leave the oily side
down and the painted side up. If there isn't an experienced off road shop in
your area, try your local race track for frame builders.

Scott Fugate
1970 IIA
1989 RR

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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 12:18:55 -6
Subject: Re: Roll Bar

Chris inquires about roll bar sources...

Back in '78 I met a guy driving an 88 with a roll bar in it. He said 
it was a roll bar from an Bronco I believe. But it's been a long time 
so I'm not sure. However, there apparently is a roll bar (show bar 
actually, I don't think any mfgs. will call them roll bars anymore) 
that fits a US 4wd that will fit an 88.
However, if you're serious, I'd have one custom made to mount on the 
frame (the one I saw in '78 mounted on the body).

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 10:28:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Blair Gillespie <Gillespie@thegrid.net>
Subject: Re: Uncl: thar she blows!

John,
        Just got around to reading email. Sorry about your 109. Glad to see
it running again. 
I apologize for not bringing the mags over last week but my adventure to
pick up the 88 took a little longer than planned. Just north of Sacramento
ended up being Red Bluff. 
        I will stop by this weekend to drop of the mags. Maybe we can grab a
beer?
                Rover On,
                        Blair
Blair Gillespie
San Luis Obispo Ca. USA
1988 Range Rover (For Sale)
1972 S III 88
1967 FLH HD

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 96 13:33:22 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Uncl: thar she blows!

 John W. Henricks, writes:

>>>> I've noticed that when running the engine hard
it tends to blow oil out the breather cap on the filler tube.  Is this
indicative of another problem,

yes...

>>> or is there a baffle that is missing
from the tube to prevent this,

the baffle just keeps people like me from dropping things into the oil pan or 
camshaft

>>>> or seeing that there is another breather
cap on the valve cover, could I purchase or fabricate a plate to cover
the filler tube access and just add oil through the other cap?

I don't think this would work very well. The bottom half (crankcase) of your 
motor needs to be vented, and the reason that you are getting crap coming out of
the breather is that your piston rings are worn, blowing oil into the crankcase 
and out the breather. Sealing the top of the filler tube would essentially seal 
the crankcase, and the pressure would build up and eventualy force  the pressure
out through a seal. The breather on the valve cover is there to vent the 
pressure created by the valve train. It doesn't do much for the crankcase 
pressure.

Dave B.

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 13:35:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Uncl: thar she blows!

On Wed, 25 Sep 1996, Bobeck, David R. wrote:

>> it tends to blow oil out the breather cap on the filler tube.  Is this
>> indicative of another problem,
> yes...

	Seem to recall this particular problem... :-)  You could cut yourself
	on the ridge found in #2 & 3.  Could have kept the block going
	longer, but oval pistons just proved to be too hard to locate.
	The chap should do a compression check and see if it was better
	than the green beasties 120,0,5,110...  Betcha it won't be good
	with that kind of blowby...

> the baffle just keeps people like me from dropping things into the oil pan or 
> camshaft

	Just visionary those Rover engineers eh... :-)

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From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 25 Sep 96 13:45:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Uncl: thar she blows!

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 14:08:44 -0500
From: "John P. Casteel" <jcasteel@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Database enquiry?

Simon Ward-Hastelow wrote:
> What is the database that you folks keep adding to . . .
> is it just Series vehicles or a list of all Landrovers owned by subscribers
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> is it just Series vehicles or a list of all Landrovers owned by subscribers
> to this list?

Hello,  I'm keeper of the database and it is for Series vehicles only.  
There is another database (someone can point you to it) for Defender 
owners.  The Series database began as an effort to find out what is in 
North America but it has been expanded to include all Series vehicles, 
whether owned by subscribers or civilians.  Of course the only way to 
get the info to me is through lro-net so by default it is mostly made up 
of subscribers to the list.

I will have an update soon and I will reissue the information needed.

John Casteel
'90 RR (for sale or trade)

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 96 14:23:56 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Uncl: thar she blows!

>>>>Not necessarily, me boyo.

oh? 

>>>>There re any one of a few reasons this could be happening. The first, which 
is 
the worn rings, can be verified with a quick leakdown test.

yeah. Just don't get your ear too close to the filler neck...

>>>>Other difficulties could be a bad/blocked PCV valve,

if he's got a breather cap on his filler tube then he aint got no pcv. I don't 
think PCV type fillers accept the breather cap, and if they do, they still 
aren't supposed to blow oil, just slight fumes. The engines with the breather on
the filler neck didn't blow oil when they were new, or not very much anyway. 
Mostly unburnt vapors left over from the combustion process...not huge blobs of 
oily gunk.

>>>>A coolant leak into the oil galleries could be generatring steam and/or 
extra 
pressure, though the mayonnaise for oil usually tips this one off. 

More likely that a coolant leak in the head gasket or combustion chamber allows 
cylinder pressure into the cooling system...either way the oil would look rather
like VERY old milk...
Also I'd imagine he'd be having some cooling problems, were this the case.
Besides, it takes a good amount of pressure (piston blow-by) to cause stuff to 
come flying out the top of the filler neck. Tis the reason deisels get so 
messy... but you know that.:) With only 9 psi's in the cooling system, a small 
(the only kind that wouldn't immediatley manifest itself in the form of gross 
loss of cooling) leak wouldn't even get 9 psi's into the crankcase, since 
pressure wouldn't actually be getting quite high enough in the rad, and whatever
pressure it did impart to the inside of the block would hardly be enough to 
pressurize it to any signifigant extent.

>>>Never jump to conclusions....sometimes the gap is deeper than you 
thought...8*)

Pish posh...

    aj"Especially pedantic today"r

Dave "annoyingly arrogant today" B.:)

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 08:29:37 -1000
From: Faye Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

I'm not sure what the data base is all about but here are my LR's if you are
keeping track of all the LR's ever in existance.

244229789, 1966, Series IIa, '88', Station Wagon, Tropical Roof, Red, Island
of Hawaii, Hawaii, USA, Ist delivered 1966, Parts vehicle stripped to frame
waiting to be delivered to recycler, Purchased 1986 as a rusted hulk with
good mechanicals.  Don't know history except parked for long time right side
to or in ocean.

24437451G, 1970, Series IIa, '88', Hard Top, Marina Blue now stripped,
Island of Hawaii, Hawaii, USA, 1st delivered 3/5/70, I purchased 1984.  Only
original or unrebuilt mecchanicals are wiper motor and rear differential.

25413512B, 1965 Series IIa, '109', Regular(pickup with short cab),
originally medium green color now slime green, Island of Hawaii, Hawaii,
USA, 1st delivered 12/08/65.  Was Mauna Kea Beach Hotel Fire truck fitted
with front engine driven water pump and rear mounted PTO Koenig winch.  I
purchased in 1989 with 31K miles, now 35K miles.  Fitting rebuilt 5 main 2.2
engine.

Peter Ogilve
Kailua-Kona, Island of Hawaii
ogilvi@hgea.org
'88' 1970, naked
'109' regular, 1965, slime green.

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 20:31:33 +0200
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Rope trick

Dave Bobeck wrote about keeping valves in the head:

>Get the cylinder near TDC, (watch dist, or stick a light down the spark lug 
>hole). Stuff a few inches of 3/8" rope in the spark plug hole and crank the 
>engine by hand until you feel resistance. 

One vital piece of information seems to be missing: DO NOT stuff ALL the 
rope in. Make sure at least four inches/10 cm or so is still sticking out 
the spark plug hole so you can pull the rope out again after you have 
finished with the valves. While it will seem obvious to you afterwards, that 
might be too late.
Regards
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 20:31:40 +0200
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: S I Club Fees

Jeremy J Bartlett wrote:

>Does anyone know the current S1 club (UK) fees (and can you confirm 
>the current address)?

13 gbp annually + 2 gbp one-time registration fee

The Series One Club Membership Secretary
12 Black Lawn
Gillingham
Dorset, SP8 4SD

According to the address, his SI leaks much worse than mine! (This is from 
the latest newsletter, btw).
Regards

Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 20:31:37 +0200
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: 80" weight

Clinton D. Coates hints that he is getting an 80":

>I need the curb weight for an 80" so I can give a proper
>figure to the weigh scale buddies so they don't tax me
>too much!

Lucky you! 
Weight, running, with water, oil, five gallons petrol according to my 
Instruction Manual: 2604 lbs  1182 kg (irrespective of year)
This is without mud, and the gallons are imperial.
Good luck with it
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 08:30:15 -1000
From: Faye Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

I'm not sure what the data base is all about but here are my LR's if you are
keeping track of all the LR's ever in existance.

244229789, 1966, Series IIa, '88', Station Wagon, Tropical Roof, Red, Island
of Hawaii, Hawaii, USA, Ist delivered 1966, Parts vehicle stripped to frame
waiting to be delivered to recycler, Purchased 1986 as a rusted hulk with
good mechanicals.  Don't know history except parked for long time right side
to or in ocean.

24437451G, 1970, Series IIa, '88', Hard Top, Marina Blue now stripped,
Island of Hawaii, Hawaii, USA, 1st delivered 3/5/70, I purchased 1984.  Only
original or unrebuilt mecchanicals are wiper motor and rear differential.

25413512B, 1965 Series IIa, '109', Regular(pickup with short cab),
originally medium green color now slime green, Island of Hawaii, Hawaii,
USA, 1st delivered 12/08/65.  Was Mauna Kea Beach Hotel Fire truck fitted
with front engine driven water pump and rear mounted PTO Koenig winch.  I
purchased in 1989 with 31K miles, now 35K miles.  Fitting rebuilt 5 main 2.2
engine.

Peter Ogilve
Kailua-Kona, Island of Hawaii
ogilvi@hgea.org
'88' 1970, naked
'109' regular, 1965, slime green.

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 14:24:09 -0400
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Re: Roll Bar

M Scott Fugate wrote:
> I designed the thing, and explained it to the
> proprietor, and he built it.  Mine bolts to the galvanized capping corners
> behind the front seats, with braces to the seat boxes directly ahead of the
> rear bench seats.  

I also designed one with the help of the local machine shop.  We took a
slightly
different tack:  Since I frequently have people in the back of my 88", I
was also
worried about their protection.  In a rollover, if the rollbar is
attached
to the frame, the people in the back would only be attached to the truck
by the 
lap belts bolted through the tub and could easily end up being tossed
out if the 
lap belts pulled through.

With that in mind, we made a "square" cage of tubular steel with thick
plates 
which cover the entire surface of the tub seat and bolted through with 
backing plates (like the tow plate on the rear crossmember).  The rear
seats 
and lap belts will be fastened to the plate on the seat. (I must also
 mention here that the tub floor was replaced with much thicker aluminum
and heavy duty re-enforcement).

The thought was to make the rear into a cage for protection of the rear 
occupants.

I think it will afford more protection for the rear occupants but I hope
I never have to test it.
-- 
Nate Dunsmore
88" SIIa ("The Blue Brick" http://members.aol.com/naddmd/first.htm )
dunsmo19@us.net

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From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 15:02:26 -0400 (EDT)

Hello all!

While we're on the subject of roofs...I'm looking for the roof for a 110 regular 
(with or without sides)...I've finally decided that its time to be able to see 
out the windscreen without crunching over.

Anyone got one?  Any ideas?

Rgds,
Eric

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 12:25:08 -0700
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: 

Here was my crazy thought on that:

	(I assume you are doing this to your Stage I).
	
	After you've looked carefully at a 90 or 110 roof to see how the
windscreen is attached to the roof to figure out how much aluminum to spare, 
trace up the line of the windscreen onto the roof all the way around, then
come back towards the front the amount necessary to make the proper
windscreen/roof atachment.  Then cut the roof on that line.  Next, go to a
machine shop (or do it yourself if you know how) to get the overlap bent so
that it will fit well against the D90 windscreen you purchased from that
breaking yard in the UK (oh, yeah did I mention that part?).  Then you can
add metal on the aft side of the bend as needed to make the fittings for
the attachment.

	Now, I haven't done this, but I have thought about it a bit while trying
to find the ibuprofen after having craned my neck to look at too many signals.

	One thing this does that is nice is it makes it unnecessary to find that
piece that attaches the gizmos that hold the visors (or the gizmos, for
that matter).  I don't know the names of them, as I can't find them in any
catalogs.  Anyway, during my investigations of the above, I noticed that
the frame for the head liner material in a IIA follows a very similiar line
as the windscreen/roof join on a 90/110.

Chris
'65 88" SW
'96 Disco	

At 03:02 PM 9/25/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Hello all!

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]

>Hello all!
>While we're on the subject of roofs...I'm looking for the roof for a 110
regular 
>(with or without sides)...I've finally decided that its time to be able to
see 
>out the windscreen without crunching over.
>Anyone got one?  Any ideas?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>Rgds,
>Eric

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 15:59:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: your mail

On Wed, 25 Sep 1996 ericz@cloud9.net wrote:

> or without sides)...I've finally decided that its time to be able to see 
> out the windscreen without crunching over.

	Try being over 5'11" and driving any distance.  You subconsciously
	bend you head sideways to see out the front rather than staring
	at the metal above the windscreen.  You can of course get some
	thinner seats so you sit lower...  Or slouch, though if you do this
	nice looking blondes will run over to Jeff's 88 rather than to
	your manly Stage One...  A sore neck or babes...  Your call...

	90/110 windscreens... Those would be born originally in 1984.  12
	years old...  A little young for you Eric...  Of course, you could
	do a session of watching Harold & Maude and go for the older
	Series One 80" windscreen which was taller from top to bottom...
	:-)

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 13:18:38 -0700
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: 

At 12:25 PM 9/25/96 -0700, you wrote:
[comments about fitting a 110 windscreen deleted...]
> Now, I haven't done this, but I have thought about it a bit while trying
> to find the ibuprofen after having craned my neck to look at too many
> signals.

There's a much easier way to avoid this pain...  Just sit up straight.
Those friendly folks behind you will be quite happy to let you when the
light changes with a happy toot of their horn.  Works for me...

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

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From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 16:52:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: your mail

On Wed, 25 Sep 1996, Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca> wrote:

	Or slouch, though if you do this
>	nice looking blondes will run over to Jeff's 88 rather than to
>	your manly Stage One...  A sore neck or babes...  Your call...

According to unfounded reports, however, it doesn't make a difference in the 
end....:)

>	90/110 windscreens... Those would be born originally in 1984.  12
>	years old...  A little young for you Eric...  Of course, you could
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>	Series One 80" windscreen which was taller from top to bottom...
>	:-)
Hey, I met her in a bar...seriously, I'm not much of a stickler for originality 
either.

BTW....guess who gets the award for most bone-headed mis-diagnosis?  (Hint: His 
initials ar S.N.)  

I just love trailering up and down the eastern seaboard!!!

Rgds,
Eric

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From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 16:55:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 

On Wed, 25 Sep 1996, "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org> wrote:

 D90 windscreen you purchased from that
>breaking yard in the UK (oh, yeah did I mention that part?).  

I've got a windscreen setup...and I'm not keen on cutting up a good series 
roof....although I will if I have to....

Rgds,
Eric

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 17:01:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: your mail

On Wed, 25 Sep 1996 ericz@cloud9.net wrote:

> According to unfounded reports, however, it doesn't make a difference in the 
> end....:)

	More testing is required I guess...  :-)

> BTW....guess who gets the award for most bone-headed mis-diagnosis?  
> (Hint: His initials ar S.N.)  

	Do tell more...  I can probably come pretty close in my guess.
	Lemme see, something to do with alloy and steel lumps that sit under
	the floorboards and seatbox...  This mean I get one back?

> I just love trailering up and down the eastern seaboard!!!

	You took it back too!?

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From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 17:34:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel pump?

>This is the original pump and is about 27 years old, is it time to rebuild
>the pump??

Well John, you sure got your money's worth out of that pump.  In the life 
of my '70 IIa I've rebuilt the original 3 times, replaced it with an 
electric once, and then chucked that awful thing to put a new mechanical 
back on.  I should have never tossed the original.  The new ones are 
pressed metal with no glas bowl.  Sort of cheap looking, but they work.

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
Middleton, WI  53562
1-800-373-7226

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From: <@lucent.lucent.com:ben@bell-labs.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 17:43:14 -0400
Subject: Salisbury axles = Dana which??

sorry for not paying attention last time this was discussed..
which Dana is it? is only R+P interchangeable, or the carrier as well?
thanks
Jan

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 18:58:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: 12/4/95 <rsloan@titan.liunet.edu>
Subject: What your truck is for...

Just had one of those incredible "truck bonding" events happen to me the 
other day.  Close your eyes (after you read this, of course, or have 
someone read it to you) and picture this...A mild trail ride, filled with 
enough bumps and large puddles to make things interesting but nothing to 
creatively pinstripe any body panels, ending in a great spot to pull over 
and stop.  The sun sets, the breeze is cool, almost chilly.  The sky is 
super clear.  Clear enough so that every star is visible and you can't 
help but feel completely insignificant in the grand scheme of things.  
Like you're looking up and actually seeing God at work or something.
Your favorite cigar (mine's a Padron or Macanudo) or pipe lit up and 
suddenly you realize everything you thought was important and all 
consuming, like how do I tell Chase Manhattan bank this time around that 
I'll be a few weeks late with their money, is suddenly put into 
perspective.  If you don't try and enjoy life what's the point of living 
it, and if you enjoy the outdoors, what better way to enjoy it than in a 
Land Rover, even if the bank does call me every day.  But most of you 
already know the feeling of what I'm talking about.

  Okay now open your eyes and give me some advice about crossing streams and
small rivers with clay bottom beds.  I'm going for some fossils in a huge 
field and a friend of mine informed me that there's been a lot of rain so 
there are numerous run-off streams I'll have to cross, none with depth 
over a foot, but the landscape was reported to be pretty cut up.  I guess 
my main concern is the fact that the field is basically clay based, and 
I've never driven over it (I've walked over parts of it that were wet 
and the clay kind of sucks you down if stand in one place too long) when it 
was soaked, but am willing to give it a go.  So, anyone on the list have some
pointers?  The site of the dig is a couple of miles wide with no real 
vegetation (it used to be a quarry) so there are no practical winch 
points, and my equipment takes up most of the space I have 
anyway, so no room for a winching anchor.  That's a moot point anyway, 
because I don't have a winch...but I've got a nice set of shovels! So let 
'er rip and let's hear it.

Rich
D90 #2948

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 19:30:07 -0400
From: agscsmps@post.kosone.com (G.Stoneham)
Subject: Re:Roofsides

Hi,
I've only been on the "List" for a couple of days but I think I have what
you need.
I have dismantled a 1966 109 2dr. and have many spare parts left
over.(Except the frame which I more or less swept up off my garage floor...)
Currently I'm restoring a 1968 Station Wagon and it sounds as if you may have
some things there I could use.
Send me some email or your phone number and we'll discuss the details!
Regards,
Steve

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 19:40:08 -0700
From: Heather Dixon <hldixon@top.monad.net>
Subject: Re: Proper way to use Hi-Lift

Stefan R. Jacob wrote:
> At a second glance, that doesn't seem to be Dixon after all. That web-portrait
> is a bit misleading. Sorry I questioned your gallantry...
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> > Get a load of Dixon ...
> ... etc. bla bla)

Heather was unaccounted for for about 30 hours as her ISP was down.

Thank God it's back up again. Hope that doesn't happen again for a very 
l-o-o-o-o-o-o-n-g time.

Heather

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 16:50:32 -0700
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: What your truck is for...

Great image...  Makes all the gear oil and busted knuckles worth it, eh?

>I've never driven over it (I've walked over parts of it that were wet 
>and the clay kind of sucks you down if stand in one place too long) when it 

Okay, my uninformed, never-done-either, living-room-couch,
back-seat-rovering guess is, #1, let a lot of air out of your tires so you
float on top of the mud (lessen the lbs/sq. in), and when you stop, lay down
some old plywood and park your wheels on it, again to spread your weight out
as much as possible.

But, better to wait and see what the experts say.

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

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Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 11:13:17 -0700
From: Miroslav Belik <m.belik@uws.edu.au>
Subject: My Land Rover is going

Well Dear LROs I finally got my LR going last week. It took me 7 week=
s
and now I can enjoy loud driving around Sydney in my LWB. I had a bit=
 of
difficulty getting my new gearbox in. It took about 4 hours just to g=
et
it in there. One it was, I found that I had no clutch. So I had to go=
 and
get a new master cylinder (this part must be one of the cheapest at A=
U$50
for a land rover). Anyway I stuck the new Master cylinder...... this =
is
no easy task as the whole pedal has to come out...... I bled the clut=
ch
AND STILL only a very small pedal pressure. So I am going to get the=

slave cylinder reconditioned this weekend. Just a quick question here=
,
could this clutch problem be synonymous with this model?

The vehicle is still drivable, however several things did happen whil=
st
taking it to work for the first time yesterday. When I hit a pot hole=
 in
the road the left hand side started to uncontrollable shake and vibra=
te.
Could this be the bushes in the springs. I know that one way to fix t=
his
problem is not drive over pot holes, but I don=92t think that this wo=
uld be
feasible as I am hoping to track around Australia in it soon (and I t=
hink
that this particular vehicle has already done this a couple of times=

judging by the stickers on the windows).

One other thing that happened was that the CHARGE light kept coming o=
n
and off as I was driving, could the regulator be stuffed.

Well anyway, thanks for all your assistance in getting the LR on the=

road. Having this group to consult definitely made things much easier=
>.

Cheers
Miroslav Belik
SIII Stage 1 1982 3.9 D LWB (fun to drive)

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 21:37:59 -0500 (EST)
From: "M. ABERCROMBIE" <maa0818@ritvax.isc.rit.edu>
Subject: wheel width

Hello again-
I have another question about wheels.  Does anyone know what the width of
the LR stock 15" wheel is?  If it is under 6 1/2 inches, does any one have a
set of 16" wheels that they want to part with?  
Thanks-
Matt

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 18:38:20 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Looking for 109 regular roofsides

At  9:39 AM 9/25/96 -0400, Adams, Bill wrote:

>Aren't the 109 roofsides the same as 88 roofsides or am I a total idiot.

109 four (five) doors use the same sides as 88s. 109 two door sides are the
width of the rear side door longer.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

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From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 08:19:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Formula for  Springs

On 23 Sep 96 at 21:24, Trevor Talbot wrote:

> David
     These figures are copied from genuine Land Rover Workshop Manual for Right 
 Hand Drive 88 petrol
  88 Petrol ,rear.                                  Drivers side                
    Passenger side
 
   No of leaves                                      11                         
         11
   Width of leaves                                  21/2 inch                   
      21/2 inch
   Static load (vehicle unladen)               690 lbs                          
  580 lbs
 Camber under static load                      3 1/4 inch                       
  3 1/4 inch
 Free camber                                        7.42 inch                   
      6.75 inch

    I'm not sure but I think you change the springs over for a Left Hand Drive, 
> maybe some one can confirm this . Hope this is of some help.

I have often wondered at this theory that the weight of the driver is the 
reason for different springs for each side.  Aside from the RHD/LHD 
differences isn't the weight distribution affected by the fact that the 
engine/transmission is offset to the left a couple of inches and the full tank of gas in 
an 88 adds 100 lbs to the extreme right?  What about torque reaction? 
...don't laugh now.   (And then there is the 80 lb dog that 
is a permanent addition to the passenger side).  Does anyone have the real 
reasons for this spring difference which carries right on into the coiler 
versions?  Are LHD/RHD vehicles sprung differently?  How far wrong can I go 
by using the same springs on each side?

Ron Franklin

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

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From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 21:46:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Roof vents: Trade top?

In a message dated 96-09-23 23:53:17 EDT, you write:

> I do not have the tropical skin as of yet, I do however, have
>the vents and have been iching to put these guys in for a while.

I have a Safari top off a '59 88". It's in good shape other than a hole for
mounting a spotlight at the front of the main roof (not in the tropical
awning). The window tracks presumably could use replacing. Where are you
located? Are you interested in a trade? What exactly is your top if you're
interested?

Regards,
David Cockey
Rochester, MI
810-651-2744

------------------------------
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From: Kevin Isemonger <KISEMON@clear.co.nz>
Subject: Why won't my speedo work????
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 15:25:00 +1200

From: "Alan Logue" <logue@a011.aone.net.au>

Looking for ideas for anyone.

Driving along in the Series III and the speedo stops working.

 -----------------------------
I had exactly the same problem on my Series 111.  The plastic sheath had
burned off the steel cover, being too close to the exhaust and it let
the grit get in and ground its way through the centre drive.  I bought
another one and struck the exact same problem.

I grabbed the speedo end with some long nose pliers and tried to turn it
and it had not engaged the gear drive in the gear box.  When it had
engaged, it was not protruding enough to connect to the speedo.  I
pulled the centre flexi drive out and compared it with the original and
it was half a smidgen shorter.

I took it back to the dealer that I bought it off and we went through a
few packets before we found a centre drive long enough.  It was a
mongrel batch that was made.

regards
Kevin Isemonger
kisemon@clear.co.nz

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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 20:33:46 -0700
From: "Franklin H. Yap" <FHYap@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Nice tires, man...

Tom Rowe wrote:
> > seen. Now on to the tires. They are Michelin 7.50x16 XCL's. Where does one
> > obtain such a meaty slab o' rubber?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> > obtain such a meaty slab o' rubber?
> >From your local Michelin dealer?

The XCL is no longer made and was never made available through Michelin 
dealers in the US.  I recently heard that Safari Gard has some in stock.

FHY

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From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 23:38:15 -0400
Subject: Different springs: was Formula for Springs

Ron writes about the great spring mystery:
>I have often wondered at this theory that the weight of the driver is the 
>reason for different springs for each side.  Aside from the RHD/LHD 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>tank of gas in 
>an 88 adds 100 lbs to the extreme right?

Some trivia of quetionable utility.

Looking through various parts books including SI '54-'58 (4107, revised
1961), SII&IIA (4565, July 1964), SII&IIA (605957, Dec 1968), SIII (RTC
9007C, March 1977) and SIIA (RTC9840CC, April 1987):
All call for different springs on driver and passenger side
EXCEPT for the July '64 SII&IIA book which calls for the same springs on both
sides from vehicle suffix "B" onward. The springs called for are the same as
the Driver's side in vehicles up to suffix "A".  This was superceded in the
later books with a return to different springs side-to-side for all vehicles.

It's interesting that most NA parts sources (other than British Pacific) list
only one spring per application. Maybe they all have the July '64 parts book,
and assume all vehicles are suffix "B" or later. Or maybe it the same springs
work better for LHD. Or maybe it really doesn't make much difference.

Looking at the LR SII/IIA spring repair manual specs, the front static loads
differ by 146# between sides for the 88" petrol, and are the same for 88"
diesel and 109". The rear static loads differ by 110# for 88", and 180# for
109". I have no idea either what this is based on, or what it means.

Regards,
David Cockey

 

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Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 00:34:47 -0300
From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
Subject: Re: Nice tires, man...

 Now on to the tires. They are Michelin 7.50x16 XCL's. Where does one
>obtain such a meaty slab o' rubber?
The XCL's, as I understand it, are about $350 apeice.  Ask any Michelin Dealer.

Steve Paustian
95 arles blue D90 SW
95 coniston green D90 SW
Scitex Prismax II

------------------------------
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From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: My Land Rover is going
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 15:19:00 +0930 (CST)

> Anyway I stuck the new Master cylinder...... this is no easy task as
the whole pedal has to come out...... I bled the clutch  AND STILL
only a very small pedal pressure. So I am going to get the slave
cylinder reconditioned this weekend. Just a quick question here
could this clutch problem be synonymous with this model?

Not that i am aware of.  when you get the slave reconditioned make sure 
that you get/already have a slave cyl foir a stage 1.  They have a larger 
bore than the std LR,  though they look the same.  Mixing them up is 
supposed to be a no - no...
 Is the clutch working OK ?  it never ceases to amaze me how light the
clutch is on my stage 1 compared the the little renault that the wife
drives, maybe you just expect the clutch to be like the brakes and
steering...... 

> The vehicle is still drivable, however several things did happen whilst
taking it to work for the first time yesterday. When I hit a pot hole in
the road the left hand side started to uncontrollable shake and vibrate. 
Could this be the bushes in the springs. 

Yes but...  Its most likely the swivel pin pre-load  ( a favourite topic 
of mine)  You probably need to pull a couple of shims from out the top of 
the swivel pin housings.  Get the pre-load right and most of the steering 
shakes and shudders will go away.  If you still have problems after the 
pre-load is done and the wheels have been balanced (and any US tie-rod 
ends have been replaced) then look at the steering damper.

cheers

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------
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From: johnliu@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 22:51:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Uncl: thar she blows!

Hi Jon.  I assume you're talking about the oily film that collects on the
underside of the oil fill tube breather cap?  There is not, or shouldn't be,
visible oil smoke puffing from the breather cap or large quantities of oil
issuing from the breather vents.  Well, I never had a way to
look under the hood while working the engine hard (neck not long enough),
but I don't recall any puffing at idle or any large accumulation of oil
around the cap/tube.

I looked through my manual (yes, I still have it on my bookshelf for the
next Rover).  I found where I had checked the compression and recorded the
readings.  It was on 6/9/95, at least that's the date I put down.  I got:

  #1 135  (#1 is front cylinder)
  #2 130
  #3 115
  #4 135

This was using a compression gauge with a screw-in fitting, cranking over
with the starter.  Don't recall if the engine was cold or hot.  No oil added
to the compression chamber during the test.  I never did a leakdown test.

The manual gives these specs for a new engine (for a 7 to 1 head, which I
think this truck has): 145 (engine hot.)

Maybe you should check the compression, with the engine hot.  Record the
readings.  If they are much lower than they were in 6/95, then squirt a
little oil into the sparkplug holes and recheck to diagnose.

Anyway, I think oily film on the bottom of the breather cap is not unusual.
And the mechanics who inspected the truck (and did a compression check) said
compression was normal.  If it has started puffing visible smoke or dribbling
oil or gunk, I don't understand it.

John Y. Liu johnliu@earthlink.net or 101670,2635@compuserve.com
via HP20OLX, Nettamer, and acCIS

Net-Tamer V 1.06H For HP100/200 & OG700 - Registered

------------------------------
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Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 02:01:39 -0400
From: Steve MARGOLIS <sim1@cornell.edu>
Subject: Looking forward (was Re: your mail)

Dixon suggested "go for the older Series One 80" windscreen which was
taller from top to bottom..."  That's true of the 107" as well.  I'm 6 feet
tall and put a lot of miles on my 107.  The only time I ever had to scrunch
down to see where I was going was when it was snowing or raining, since the
12 inch wiper blade didn't reach very high - if I remember right there was
a four or five inch part at the top of the windscreen that didn't get
cleared.  Of course, since I was living in Vermont and Maine most of the
time, I did my share of scunching.  I got stopped for running a red light
at 2:30 in the morning in a driving downpour in Austin, Texas.  When I went
back to that intersection in daylight, I saw that the only traffic lights
were overhead - real high.  There were no lights on the curbside as most
intersections there had.  I went to court and my guilty with explanation
defense was "I don't know if you've ever driven a Land Rover in the rain,
your honor, but it is not possible to see those overhead lights.  I did
stop at the next intersection where there was an eyelevel light, before the
officer pulled me over."   He smiled, accepted my plea, dismissed the
charge, and charged me $1.00 for court costs.  (Things were cheaper in
1972, but the fine would have been $25.)

Also on the subject of looking forward, I am leaving centrally isolated New
York State on Sunday to work at a job that pays real money.  Once I pay off
a few debts, it is conceivable and I am hopeful that there will be some
money for parts and labor to move the rebuilding of my 107 SW (1957)
forward.  I may have to drop off the list for a little while, but if I do,
I'll be back.

Steve

Steve Margolis - Ithaca, NY
1957 107 Station Wagon, Series I, Still in kit form in Maine (Damn!)
        serial number 13470093 engine number 114707468

------------------------------
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From: etlgtr@etlxdmx.ericsson.se (Graham Tanner XB/V)
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 96 08:14:18 BST
Subject: Series III Oil Leak

Hi All

I have a friend that has recently bought a LWB Seriess III 2.25 diesel which
seems to burn a lot of oil. It uses 1 litre every 700 km. This to me a 90 tdi
owner to be rather a lot. He sayes that it does not smoke more than a
normal diesel when it starts up and does not seem to smoke when pulling up hill.
There are no signs of the obvious oil leaks from the output shaft between the
engine and the gearbox and does not drip oil onto the road (more than usual thatis).

Has anyone got any suggestions on what it could be. I thought it could
be burning the oil but I would expect to see black smoke from the exhaust.

       ______
      [___|\_\__
      [_-_|__|_-]
 ___.._(0).._.(0)__..-

"Plod"
Ex Manchester Police (High Speed Traffic Car NOT)
2.5 TDI 90

------------------------------
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From: "Alan Cookson" <acookson@aztec.co.za>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 09:54:20 +0200
Subject: SWB shocks

Here's a tale that will amuse all SWB owners!

A year ago I purchased "Oscar", a 1976 S111 SWB SW, 2.25 petrol. My 
previous L-R was a LWB 11A, and I expected a choppier ride with Oscar 
88" compared with the old 109", so I put up with the crashing and 
banging - and lost weight in the process (previous vehicle - BMW 
325), as Oscar is my DD. I did replace the rear springs, with LWB SW spec. ones, as they 
were sagging badly. 

Last week, whilst probing around underneath, I noticed that the front 
shock-absorber bushes were shot - plenty of play there! Aha, thought 
I, new bushes, easy job. Got new bushes, took off shocks, put on new 
bush inners, tried to fit shocks back - nothing doing! Even at full 
extension I couldn't get the shocks back with the new bushes on! This 
is with Oscar on the ground, not jacked up with wheels hanging. 

Obviously some PO had fitted very sub-standard shocks for reasons of 
economy or expediency. I immediately installed a set of new Gabriel Safari's, set to "firm", and Oscar is 
like a new vehicle now, with a (relatively) comfortable ride, and far 
less crashing and banging! I can't get over the difference in ride 
and handling. I'm just worried about putting on weight now - because 
of the previously harsh ride I lost about 6 kg!

A smooth ride from a series SWB?! Wonders will never cease!
Alan Cookson

Company: MSI (Pty) Ltd, Cape Town, South Africa
Business: International Marketing Consultancy
Tel: 27-21-531-5976
Fax: 27-21-531-5992
email: acookson@aztec.co.za

------------------------------
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From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Vaccum Advance/Servo
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 19:04:18 +0930 (CST)

Ian writes:
>  As I brake, coming to a stop, I notice that the engine 
> increases in revs, and I finally madew the connection that it is the 
> vacuum on the brake servo that acts like vacuum from the carb and advances 
> the ignition, thus speeding it up.

Hmm sounds like something amiss here.....

1st WAG, leaky servo diaphragm, when the brake pedal is depressed you end 
up with a manifold air leak which is leaning out a rich idle mixture....

have you tried disconnecting the vac advance to see if it definitely is 
vac advance related  (i'd be suprised if it is)?

have you tried disconecting the servo to see if it isnt just something 
sticking in the carb or throttle linkage?

just random thoughts

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

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