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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 96 7:54:40 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Lug wrenches

Go to Sears and buy yourself a nice long breaker bar, preferably half 
inch drive or bigger, and the correct size deep well socket (6 point). 
This rig probably won't break and if it does, Sears will cheerfully 
replace it even if you did stick four feet of galvanized plumbing pipe on 
the end and jump on it.
Another tool you should consider is AAA. For sixty bucks a year, you get 
free towing, peace of mind, and tons of discounts all over this great 
country of ours. No, they don't do off-road recovery.
The Rover wrench does a wonderful job of locking my FWhubs, but I 
wouldn't trust it to anything more trying. Walking stick for Gnomes?
BTW, next time you're at the tire store, insist that they hand tighten 
the lugnuts.Good tire shops usually do, but your Rapid Rubber stores only 
care about how fast they can get you out the door less your cash.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 20 Sep 96  8:15:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Crankshaft seal

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 96 8:23:15 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Diesel pump timing on SIII...Hmmm...

Well this is a fine kettle of fish. I would say offhand that the pointer 
should be a fixed item and the pump is the adjustable member of the 
squad. It seems that maybe a new pointer should go on the wish list, but 
what do I know?
OK, lets try this. I'll have to double check, but I think the injection 
event is supposed to begin at the 16 degree before TDC mark.
If you remove injector number 1 and then reattach it so that the spray is 
directed somewhere you can see it, you should be able to tell if it is 
squirting at the proper instant by hand-turning the engine to the timing 
mark and seeing if the injector is doing its thing. Most likely it will 
merely gurgle, but even so, you should be able to see whether fuel is 
starting to come out at 16 degrees.
If the engine is running more or less OK, the pump timing can't be out by 
more than 1-2 degrees either way as there's just too much junk bolted to 
it to allow it to turn very much. I don't want to say you should actually 
try this, but if you have adjusted the valve train and it still runs 
kinda 'knocky' maybe try just turning it a degree anti-clockwise and see 
how it performs. Then if it runs worse that way go 2 degrees the other 
way. Seat-of-the-pants method may work or not, but in the long run, if 
you have to have this tool to do a proper tune-up, I'd say you should 
track one down and buy it. It can't be anything more than some kind of 
pointer adjuster.
Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 14:43:49 +0200
From: wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter de Waal)
Subject: Re: Wheel part #s

Hi all

My book (II & IIA parts catalogue 605957) sez:
272309 Road wheel, well base rim type, 5.50" x 16",
       109, Offset from rim centre line 1 13/16"
231601 Road wheel, well base rim type, 88 Except NADA (and it seems to go
       with a 6.00 x 16" tube & tyre

also

526753 Road wheel, 6L x 15", 88, NADA (and this one goes with a 7.10" x
       15" tyre)

and

568966 Road wheel, well base rim type, 5.50" x 16",
       109, Offset from rim centre line 1 5/16"

Wouter

--
Wouter de Waal ZS1KE     GE>AT d-(pu) s+:-- a- C++$ UL+ U*+$ P>++ L++ E- W
Argo 505 / FT200       N+++>++ !o K w(--) !O !M V(--) PS+ PE++ Y+ PGP>++ t
Amateur Homebrewer 5? X? R? tv>--- b+++ DI+ D+ G e+++(*) h--- r+++ y+++(*)
                                                      Perseverance my son,
'72 Puma - 1700 FI Type IV engine                        it's a   Land/
Series II LR SW - factory fitted Lucas immobiliser                /Rover

"All journeys end when we reach our destination but the journeying remains
a thing apart, unique unto itself. Most of us make life's journeys without
understanding that the journeying is a separate thing."  --  Bob Hoover

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Jammed sump drain-plug
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 96 13:38:42 BST

Thanks for the suggestions that keep coming through. (from everyone)

> Might be too simple a suggestion, but have you tried undoing the sumpl
> plug with the engine and oil warmed up?  This may help - If you have
> only tried when warm - try when cold - the different temperature may
> play a role.

I did only try when warm. Could try it cold this afternoon.
Tomorrow, we're going to give it a go with me Dad's impact driver (I should
really get one!). If that doesn't work, there's an air tool thingy at the
workshop me brother does his stuff (he's a VW camper heathen).
If *that* fails, then I think I might just replace the sump with it's
seals, even though I risk Exxon-ising Crawley.

 
> As far as I remember, the drainplus on all british vehicles are
> taper-threads, thus overtightning will not only crush the pitch of the
> thread (as with a normal nut and bolt) but will also tend to expand the
> thread-hole. Maybe attempting to overtighten a little more, before
> trying to loosen again will open the hole enough to release?

Another thing to perhaps try if getting desparate. If so, we it might need
replacing anyway...

> Worse case yop could empty the oil another way - find an opening to the
> oil system (through the fuel pump mount maybe?) and suck the oil out
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> Then remove the sump, and work on the jammed plug on the bench? With an
> empty sump you could then use heat from a gasgun to loosen the plug?

I used a heatgun to remove one of my rear seat bolts. The bolt won't be
holding much again. I suspect heatgun treatment may not be "beneficial" to
the bolt * sump - in which case, I might as well replace the whole thing.
(also, I don't have a decent workbench as yet...)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR - with an engine that leaks oil, but not
in the right places?)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 14:01:05 +0100 (BST)
From: "T. Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Engine oil changes

The stuck oil drain plug...
        Try an impact driver. They only cost 10 quid from Halfords and have
101 uses on a Land Rover; e.g. door pillar hinge bolts, brake drum securing
screws etc.

I find that the sump gasket is replaced most easily (and lined up etc) by
glueing it to the sump with evo-stik, after making sure the sump lip is
flat. Once it is firmly attached, use blue hylomar between the sump gasket
and the engine block.
Tom

Thomas D.I. Stevenson        gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station, Millport
Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland KA28 OEG

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 14:03:24 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Jammed sump drain-plug

>> As far as I remember, the drainplus on all british vehicles are
>> taper-threads,
Not sump drains.Gearbox and swivels etc are,but my sump plug is
parallel,as is every other I've seen.
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 08:10:37 -6
Subject: Re: Jammed sump drain-plug

This may sound stupid, but have you verfied that you aren't having a 
SPOT of bad luck and the drain plug isn't welded in place?

I've seen some tight drain plugs, but never one so tight that a pipe 
wrench, at least, wouldn't loosen. Oh, and don't forget 
righty-tighty-lefty-loosy.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Engine oil changes
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 96 14:09:15 BST

> The stuck oil drain plug...
>         Try an impact driver. They only cost 10 quid from Halfords and have
> 101 uses on a Land Rover; e.g. door pillar hinge bolts, brake drum securing
> screws etc.

See my posting a few minutes ago!  :-)
Yes, I really could do with an impact driver. Didn't know they were so cheap
- are the Halfords ones any good?
I've used my father's on my front brake drums - it was over 30 quid
I believe, but an RS one (RS tend to be expensive, but guaranteed good
quality and good service).

> I find that the sump gasket is replaced most easily (and lined up etc) by
> glueing it to the sump with evo-stik, after making sure the sump lip is
> flat. Once it is firmly attached, use blue hylomar between the sump gasket
> and the engine block.

Sounds a handy tip.

Perhaps we should have a FAHT - Frequently Asked Handy Tips?
Just hope nobody attempts to pronounce that as a word...

Richard

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 14:12:42 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Diesel pump timing on SIII...Hmmm...

. It can't be anything more than some kind of
>pointer adjuster.
That's all it is Bill.Basically,it takes up the play in the skew
gears that drive the pump.You then set the pointer to the mark
on the tool.And rocking horse s**t is plentiful compared to the
availability of this thing.Not to mention the price if you *can*
find one.And that's in the UK!Damned nuisance.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 08:17:20 -6
Subject: Re: Lug wrenches

Ned Heite asks:
> Does anyone have a source for good oversized lug wrenches that will not
> cost an arm and a leg?
 snip
A socket of the corect size (deep, to clear your hub) and an 18" 
breaker bar, or flex head ratchet. My weapon of choice is the flex 
head ratchet, because once the nuts are broken loose, I can then fold 
the handle staright out from the wheel and quicly spin the nuts off. 
I works as fast as one of those big four-way lug wrenches but takes 
less room and is more useful. You can get what you need at Sears.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 08:21:51 -0300
From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
Subject: Re: Lug wrenches

>Does anyone have a source for good oversized lug wrenches that will not
>cost an arm and a leg? The not-rocket-scientists at our local tire shop

Rovers North sells the same wrench as John Craddock, not sure of the price,
but less than the on site service charge.
                                                                       Steve

Steve Paustian
95 arles blue D90 SW
95 coniston green D90 SW

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Jammed sump drain-plug
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 96 14:23:02 BST

> This may sound stupid, but have you verfied that you aren't having a 
> SPOT of bad luck and the drain plug isn't welded in place?

If it is, its not obvious from the outside. Would explain why it won't shift.
Something to bear in mind...

> I've seen some tight drain plugs, but never one so tight that a pipe 
> wrench, at least, wouldn't loosen. Oh, and don't forget 
> righty-tighty-lefty-loosy.
:-) Not the first to suggest this! Yes, I'm trying to turn it in the correct
direction - anti-clockwise...
(left to right, from below)

"Pipe wrench" all these names for the same tools!
I've tried a ratchet (12" long handle) spanner, "proper" spanners
(but none were a decent fit), what I call a "self-grip wrench" (could be
your pipe wench?). Haven't tried the stillson, but mine is only dinky 8" one.
With the self-grip wrench, I even tried hammering it, but it decided to
start rounding the head.

Cheers,

Richard

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Lug wrenches
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 96 14:25:16 BST

> >Does anyone have a source for good oversized lug wrenches that will not
> >cost an arm and a leg? The not-rocket-scientists at our local tire shop
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Rovers North sells the same wrench as John Craddock, not sure of the price,
> but less than the on site service charge.

Yet another tool with a silly American name!  :-)
My *crossbrace* from Craddocks is well built, and does the job well.
It even fits in one of my rear lockers - despite the cross-piece.

Shame, that later orders mean that I'm not satisified with Craddocks service...

Richard

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 09:38:21 -0500
From: "John P. Casteel" <jcasteel@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Series Database

Heather Dixon wrote:
> John,
> Here's more for the database.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> cubbies
> ??,1970,IIa,88,Ellie,blue/red,NH,USA,dd,??,hldixon@top.monad.net,lro-net> ??,1972,III,88,Rufus,red,NH,USA,pc,??,redixonsr@aol.com,unk,snowplow

Hi Heather,  can you supply the VIN or Serial number on these vehicles? 
 If not, I will place them in the database anyway.

Thanks,

jc

------------------------------

Subject: Another one for the database
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 14:38:12 +0100 (BST)
From: gkb@aber.ac.uk (Gary Barnes)

24131258D,1967,IIa,88,Expat,Bronze Green,Aberystwyth,Wales,dd,unk,
gkb@bofh.org.uk,lro-net

Gaz
-- 
 /\./\   
( - - )   gkb@aber.ac.uk (Gary "Wolf" Barnes)
 \ " /
  ~~~    

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 06:42:16 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Aircraft starter motors

At 10:46 PM 9/19/96 -0700, David Place wrote:

>I have an aircraft starter motor running the winch on my Land Rover and
>recently I found a second one at a garage sale.  My questions are two.
;First what is the plunger on these starters for?  They seem to control a
>rod that goes down into the gear box, but when running they don't seem to
;have any effect on the speed or pulling power.  Secondly, the newest
>motor is 75% gearbox.  The motor is made by a company I think is Jackson
;and Heintz.  Does anyone know what kind of foot pounds these things put
>out.  It must be pretty high, because the unit I presently have is so
>strong it once winched the unit right off the vehicle.  The newest one
;has a very fine drum that looks like it could hold 150 feet of 1/4" for
>example.
;
snip

Dave,
I'm not sure what you are describing.  Since starter motors do not come
with drums are you talking about complete winches using and aircraft motor?

There was a British Columbia winch company named Vancouver Winches that
went out of business in the mid seventies.  I have one of their winches.
It has an aircraft motor which is not a starter motor.  There is a
reduction gear at the front of the motor housing and a hand crank takeoff.
The winch has a substantial frame under the motor.  The drum holds 150 feet
of 3/8 inch cable.  There is  housing on one side tht holds a drum break
and a big latter chain.  The chain goes between a gear on the motor and a
larger gear in the drum.  There is a single shaft that comes off the lower
side of the winch on the drum side.  This shaft releases the brake if in
the up position.  When the motor starts, the shaft gets pulled down.

I finely ran across someone who thinks he recognized the motor.  He thinks
its the cargo winch motor off an old helecoptor.

My winch looks like the original paint was a black motor and slightly
mataic green with the name painted on in black.

If your winch is like this, you probably have a Vancouver winch.  I do not
know if they had many different styles.  The one I have is very impressive
in action.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 09:52:07 -0400
From: source@trinidad.net (Peter Quentrall-Thomas)
Subject: I'm Drowing

< Richard Maynard suggested "Split the list?"

I now spend more time each day trying to read all the messages from the
Digest than I do working on Hercules (68.IIaA). Richard is right....is it
possible to "get technical'" on one list only......suppliers on another
etc.

I haven't even had time to tell TeriAnn, Leon Akong and the others thanks
for their suggestions to my wading problems.... haven't had time to try out
their solutions.....By the way Leon joined our Sunday off road trip this
week as we tried to pioneer a new trail through a tropical rain forest on
the side of a mountain. He is a very experienced off roader.. don't let his
mild manner fool you. You should see him handle that V8 like it is a just a
toy.

Back to the "split"... I'm in favour if the hard working folks who run this
say it's possible.

Peter is the wolf!!! Source@Trinidad.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 08:08:48 -0700
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Aircraft starter motors

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
> At 10:46 PM 9/19/96 -0700, David Place wrote:
> >I have an aircraft starter motor running the winch on my Land Rover and
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 46 lines)]
> TeriAnn
> twakeman@scruznet.comHi TerriAnne.  Well what you are describing is very similar to this unit 
but there were all kinds of companies after the war using these motors to 
make winches.  Mine is one from Princess Auto, an old established company 
that did a lot of surplus sales in Canada over the years.  Mine is 
similar to yours.  On mine the outboard shaft part you describe is for a 
hand crank so that a couple of CB's could hand crank the B29 if the 
battery failed.  This one actually says starter motor on it.  It has the 
gear reduction box etc. and is black as you suggest.  Mine has the drum 
like yours.  What I haven't been able to decern, is what these motors use 
the little plunger for.  Both my winches have them.  The first winch 
motor is from a DC3 and the second must be from a larger engine because 
it is physically larger.  And I agree, they really haul.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 08:14:13 -0700
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Lug wrenches

Ned Heite wrote:
> Does anyone have a source for good oversized lug wrenches that will not
> cost an arm and a leg? The not-rocket-scientists at our local tire shop
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
>  =(O)-----(O)=                                        "   "
> I made a nice wrench by getting two pieces of steel and makeing a "T" 
handle and then having the correct socket welded to it.  I can take any 
wheel bolt off, and in one case when the bolt didn't move, I removed the 
stud:-( But it did save the $50 tow and it isn't a big job to replace the 
stud when you are at your shop.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 09:04:02 -6
Subject: Re: Jammed sump drain-plug

Snip
> > righty-tighty-lefty-loosy.
> :-) Not the first to suggest this! Yes, I'm trying to turn it in the correct
> direction - anti-clockwise...
Hope you weren't offended. Even when I used to turn things for a 
living, after getting myself all twisted around in some places I try 
to turn a pipe fitting in the wrong direction. ;-)

> "Pipe wrench" all these names for the same tools!
> I've tried a ratchet (12" long handle) spanner, "proper" spanners
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> With the self-grip wrench, I even tried hammering it, but it decided to
> start rounding the head.

The "pipe" wrenches I refer to are made by Rigid here in the US, but 
area "self-grip" wrench. The same or not, I don't know. If I remeber 
correctly, the Stillson is very similar, but has jaws more parallel 
that don't pivot quite as much. Try a longer handle pipe or Stillson 
wrench, 14" or 18". Most likely, once you start using thinks other 
that spanners or socket spanners, you won't ever get a spnner on it 
again.
And then there's always the drill.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 09:03:25 -0500
From: "Herman L. Stude" <hermans@krts.com>
Subject: Re: Lug wrenches

>Does anyone have a source for good oversized lug wrenches that will not
>cost an arm and a leg? The not-rocket-scientists at our local tire shop

Rovers North sells the same wrench as John Craddock, not sure of the 
price,
but less than the on site service charge.

-- 
I bought one of these wrenches from RN very, very solid.  A good self 
defense weapon!

------------------------------

From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 11:05:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Lug wrenches

On 20 Sep 96 at 9:03, Herman L. Stude wrote:

> >Does anyone have a source for good oversized lug wrenches that will not
> >cost an arm and a leg? The not-rocket-scientists at our local tire shop
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> I bought one of these wrenches from RN very, very solid.  A good self 
> defense weapon!

I also have one of these.  If you could bend it by jumping on it you need 
HD springs on your Rover and probably ride a Harley.  Not expensive either, though I think I got mine 
on special.

Ron Franklin

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

------------------------------

From: g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald)
Subject: Re: Aircraft starter motors
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 15:06:52 GMT

On Thu, 19 Sep 1996 22:46:07 -0700, you wrote:

>I have an aircraft starter motor running the winch on my Land Rover and 
>recently I found a second one at a garage sale.  My questions are two.  
>First what is the plunger on these starters for?  They seem to control a 
>rod that goes down into the gear box, but when running they don't seem to 
>have any effect on the speed or pulling power.

Don't know much about 24 volt ones, my experience is on pkanes with
12v systems. These had "impulse couplers" that did something so that
the magneto gave a bigger spark when cranking. Maybe that is related
to the plunger.

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 09:19:17 -0600
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Subject: Re: Aircraft starter motors

At 10:46 PM 19/09/96 -0700, David Place, wrote

>I have an aircraft starter motor running the winch on my Land Rover and 
>recently I found a second one at a garage sale.  My questions are two.  
>First what is the plunger on these starters for? 

Hi David, I think what you may have is either a landing gear or flap motor.
I'd suggest that you look through your Yellow Pages under aircraft and find
an airframe and powerplant maintenance shop and ask them.  An A&P engineer
would probably know right off what you've got.  You could also try posting
in one of the rec.aviation newsgroups.

                                                         Rick Grant

Cobra Media Communications, Calgary Canada
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/cobracom
rgrant@cadvision.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 16:12:45 +0100
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Crankshaft Seal

Paul Driscoll asks about replacing the front crankshaft oilseal.
Although it is possible to do want you want without removing the 
radiator, I would not recommend it.
I recommend that you remove the front bulkhead complete with radiator 
attached. I have found this little more trouble than removing the 
radiator from the bulkhead, and it gives much more space to work. The 
advantage is that you will have a chance to ensure that the bulkhead to 
wing/chassis fixings are overhauled and coppereased.

Using the correct sized spanner, remove the nut/starter dog (remembering 
to select a gear and apply the parking brake).

The pulley should come off easily with a small amount of coaxing with 
judicious leverage.

If you find that the seal cover is fixed to the timing cover with self 
tapping screws it will indicate that the seal has previously been 
renewed, and life will be very easy - just unscrew them and pull the 
seal out. Press a new one in and then screw the cover back on.

If the cover is rivetted, then you must drill out the rivets. Obviously, 
because of the risk of getting swarf and bits of rivet inside the timing 
case, this must be removed first.

Remove the water pump. Undo all of the bolts around the timing cover. 
Undo the sump bolts at the front of the sump which are screwed into the 
bottom of the timing cover - failure to remember this will lead to lots 
of head scratching!

Pull off the cover and drill out the rivets. Secure the cover afterwards 
with self tapping screws of the correct type, or new rivets (if you are 
up to using solid rivets).

Don't forget to get new gaskets for the timing cover and water pump.

I suggest you replace the bypass hose between the head and water pump 
while you are about it. It is a cheap little piece of hose, and now is 
the easiest time to replace it. Use decent worm drive clips - stainless 
steel with hexagon head drive - to make life easy in the future - and 
throw away the old corroded ones.

It will be a good opportunity to check the timing chain. If the 
tensioner has not taken up slack, check to see that it has not used up 
all of it's travel - unlikely. If it does not move freely after 
releasing the ratchet pawl, you should remove it and inspect it. Rotate 
the crankshaft so that the No 1 piston is at TDC while doing this so 
that it will be easy to ensure that valve timing is not disturbed.

Don't forget the rule: if it moves, lube it; if it doesn't move, paint 
it!

Cheers

-- 
David G. Olley
-----------------------------------------------------
New Concept, PO Box 61, Winchester, SO23 8XR, England
Tel: +44-(0)1962-840769  Fax: +44-(0)1962-867367
Web Site: http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
-----------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 16:35:59 +0100
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Lug wrenches

Ned Heite is having trouble with his mechanics, who overtighten the 
wheel nuts. Common problem. Has anyone had alloy wheels damaged by these 
jokers? If so, get a new set of wheels from them. Most manufacturers 
quote a specific torque figure for wheel nuts. First it stops the nuts 
coming loose, and second it prevents the threads being overstressed. In 
the case of alloy wheels, they can crack and fracture if the nuts are 
overtightened. The British AA, and other recovery services are aware of 
their responsibilities and liabilities in this regards and use torque 
wrenches at the roadside (or should).

I occasionally sell a telescopic lug wrench to customers with strength 
problems (or disabilities), for use on their cars/trailers. The wrench 
is 13 inches (33cm) long when retracted and 18 inches (46 cm) extended 
(measuring perpendicular to the centre line of the wheel nut. It is 21 
inches long in fact, but runs at an angle).
I imagine these are available in the USA because they are made in 
Taiwan. Availability elsewhere is unknown. The item comes with two 
double ended sockets giving 17,19,21 & 22mm. You will have to buy a 
socket for the Land Rover wheel nut.

It is also a useful tool for any really hard to shift nuts, because it 
has a standard half inch square drive for sockets.

Hope this helps.

If you can't get one, let me know to my email address, and I may be able 
to help - I have a few here.

-- 
David G. Olley
-----------------------------------------------------
New Concept, PO Box 61, Winchester, SO23 8XR, England
Tel: +44-(0)1962-840769  Fax: +44-(0)1962-867367
Web Site: http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
-----------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 12:13:44 -0400
From: m8f@ornl.gov (M Scott Fugate)
Subject: Re: Lug Wrench

Ned needs a lug wrench...

I'd heartily recommend a half inch drive breaker bar with a six point1 1/16
socket.  Deep drive is better.  Actually, I can't fathom getting along
without these items.  Try Home Depot.  Their "Husky" line of tools seem to
be of good quality, and are reasonably priced.    While you're at it, get a
two to two and a half foot length of  iron pipe that will fit over the
breaker bar.  You'll eventually need to "cheat". Just don't tell the Safety
Police I recommended it to you.

Happy wrenching,

Scott Fugate
1970 IIa
1989 RR

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 09:22:58 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: Pinion bearing

Hello all,

I'm looking for a bearing number and bore size for the pinion bearing in 
the rear end of a 11A SWB (non-salisbury). I have a part no., 
Consolidated RLS12 but no bore size. Can anyone confirm this number?

Thanks, Greg "losing your bearings at 60 mph is not a good thing"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 96 13:15:01 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Pinion bearing

Hello all,

I'm looking for a bearing number and bore size for the pinion bearing in 
the rear end of a 11A SWB (non-salisbury). I have a part no., 
Consolidated RLS12 but no bore size. Can anyone confirm this number?

Thanks, Greg "losing your bearings at 60 mph is not a good thing"

Sorry, no dice on the RLS12. I see it listed on the aftermarket list as a 
primary pinion bearing. this is for the input shaft on the transmission.
Looking at the blow up in the RN catalog, there are two diff pinion bearings, 
one inner and one outer.
If you want to go aftermarket, then pull the thing apart and bring em to your 
local 'bearings 'r' us.

Cheers

Dave b.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 96 13:22:31 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Since were on the subject of pinion bearings...

Question:

A friend's SIII makes a particularly alarming rumbling sound on the overrun. We 
checked the UJ's and splines on the driveshaft's and they are ok. The noise 
stops completely when in four wheel drive, but locking or unlocking the hubs 
when in 2wd makes no difference, the noise is still there. Pop the yellow knob 
down and it's gone. Any ideas? My guess is that there is some kind of play in 
the front diff pinion bearing that only appears when the prop, and hence the 
pinion, is floating in 2wd "limbo". 

Thanks'

Dave B.
it really is somebody else's truck

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 10:28:34 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: Re: Pinion bearing

Bobeck, David R. wrote:

> Sorry, no dice on the RLS12.

Thanks for setting the numbers straight Dave.

> If you want to go aftermarket, then pull the thing apart and bring em to your
> local 'bearings 'r' us.

Unfortunately there is not enough of it left to identify :-(

Greg

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 14:46:24 -0400
Subject: Lug Wrenches

Subject: Lug wrenches

Ned Heite Writes: Does anyone have a source for good oversized lug wrenches
that will not cost an arm and a leg?

Yes.  Sears.  Get yourself a half inch drive, 6 point, 15/16" socket and the
least expensive breaker bar.  Also get a 3' length of pipe which will fit
over the handle for additional leverage.  My IIA arrived (used) without the
original Lucas lug wrench.  The above solution works well, is inexpensive,
and carries the Craftsman guarantee of free replacements if you break it.
In addition you now have a 15/16 socket.

Paul Donohue, Denver
1965 109" Dormobile (is this redundant?)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 96 22:05:12 UT
From: "Trevor Talbot" <fc101@msn.com>
Subject: Oil Change Problem

Richard
         I've been following your saga of the jammed sump plug. May I suggest 
a different approach because your problem seems to be lack of ooomph (power). 
Use a socket & Tee bar, fit this on the drain plug at approx 45 degrees 
towards the g/box .Crawl underneath  the LR  and bend your leg and rest your 
foot on the Tee bar .Grip one of the cross members with both hands & then take 
three short breaths ,like the weightlifters do to oxygenate the blood, then 
push like hell on the Tee bar with your foot. It will take a few seconds to 
reach full power. Suddenly the leg will shoot forward as the drain plug  
releases. At this point your body will shoot forward and your head will go 
backwards and hit the concrete floor , you will shout aggghhhhh and you will 
automatically lift your head up and smash your face under the transfer box, 
usually the drain plug.The head will drop and come to rest on the concrete. 
During this time your leg will  have travelled forward at a great rate of 
knots and briefly dislocated your knee joint and the socket & Tee bar will 
have jumped off the drain plug and fallen to the floor just as your body was 
passing underneath ,the point where your legs join your body. Your hand will 
hand will stretch forward to hold the damaged 'ITEM' and your face will again 
smash into the transfer box again. By now all the energy in your body will be 
dissipated  & you can crawl out from underneath & rest against the side of the 
LR ,your eyes watering ,nose running ,your left hand holding the bump on the 
back of your head & the right hand holding the painfull 'ITEM' .You then 
stretch underneath with your arm to unsunscrew the drain plug only to find it 
still stuck because the socket had slipped off . You shout S---T and your head 
hits an outrigger. Only joking .I know this sounds a  bit like Gerard 
Hoffnan's barrel of bricks But this method does work  , believe me. By the way 
,if you are at any of the millitary shows next year and you see an old chap 
with white hair climbing out of a 101 GS & limping, with a bump on the back of 
his head and the imprint of a hexagon on the forhead , come & say hello.On the 
other hand, if I see a young chap with the same marks I'll know its you!!
Hope you have success with your problem 
Cheers
Trevor      101 GS
                 88 SWB
                Series 1 SWB 
 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 20:53:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: cmw@tiac.net (Christopher Weinbeck)
Subject: Yikes, tough crowd

Two things caught my eye recently:

Teriann -WOW, that was cold -telling David that his FJ40 might qualify as an 
honorary Nissan Patrol :-).  -Do you still have those trim panels and/or are
you 
done with them?

3000 bucks for a (used?) galv. 109 sw chassis???  Why not buy it from RN for
$5 less!!  You still pay shipping, but at least someone else makes the
arrangements. 

Maybe that price isn't totally nuts, but coming so soon after the ad for the
unrusty, straight looking, strong running AZ 88 for $4500 it sure stood out.

Chris
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 Christopher Weinbeck       Office Logic, Inc.      V (508) 392-0288
   _______                  7 Littleton Road        F (508) 692-0897   
  |__][_[_\__               Westford, MA 01886    Computerization for 
  |___\_|_]__]                                      the healthcare
    (o)    (o)  '69 109" RHD OD 2.6 Dormobile        professional        
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

From: JDALLLEN@aol.com
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 06:04:23 -0400
Subject: Series Database  

27105182B,1965,IIA,88,noname,green,cornwall,UK,dd,unk,jdalllen@aol.com,lro-net
, volvo seats, overdrive 

------------------------------

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