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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 08:17:00 -0400
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Wheel part numbers

Hi all,

After discussions with a fellow Rover owner, I have come to find that my
rims have different part numbers.  The rears are standard 231601 but the
fronts are part number 272309.  I can't find the latter part number
listed
anywhere.  It is a 16" rim also and looks like the 231601 rim.  Any
thoughts
on differences of the two would be appreciated.
-- 
Nate Dunsmore
88" SIIa ("The Blue Brick" http://members.aol.com/naddmd/first.htm )
dunsmo19@us.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 08:47:57 -0500
From: "John P. Casteel" <jcasteel@mindspring.com>
Subject: Series Database

I've had a number of requests to repost the information and format needed for the database.  That 
information follows.

This database is for all series LR vehicles.  If you send your email address it will NOT be posted when 
the database is moved to a more public location.  Your email address will NOT be passed along to anybody 
else.

My interest in this information is varied.  First, I am interested in how many series LRs are still
considered daily drivers in North America.  Second, I am interested in the location and names of the
original dealers in NA.  Third, I think it will be good fun and practice for my old programming skills.
Fourth, there is interest on lro-net and I have the skills to do this.

When you send the information, please send it in the following format.  For each vehicle you will use a
seperate line.  Each topic is seperated by a comma.  Do not use commas in the notes section.  If there
are multiple bits of information in the notes then seperate them by a semi-colon.  If you have already
sent the infomation then you don't need to resend.  If you have multiple vehicles seperate them with a
carriage return.

If you know of land rovers and can find out their VIN please send that information too.  I am sure that
many of your club members do not have Internet access but that they would like to be included.
________________________________________________________________________

Format needed:
VIN,year,type,size,name,color,current location,country,shape,original dealer,e-mail,lro-net,notes

meaning:
VIN - vehicle identification number
year - year as registered, ie 1967
type - I, II, IIa, III, III S1
size - 86,88,109,107 etc
name - what have you named your vehicle or, noname
color - the current color of vehicle
current location - ie Colorado
country - ie  USA, UK, Germany
shape -   -  choose one of the following
                dd - daily driver: you aren't worried about taking the vehicle out.
                dr - drivable:  you drive the vehicle but not reliable for every day use.
                ur - under restoration:  
                pc - parts car:  
                dy - destroyed:  the vehicle is gone but you know the VIN / SN
original dealer - if know or private party import or "unk" if unknown
e-mail - the owners e-mail address or "none"
lro-net  - if this car is owned by a subsriber to lro-net then put "lro-net" here otherwise use "unk" for
        unknown.
notes -  anything you'd like noted seperated by semi-colon

Examples:
26204112B,1965,IIa,88,Lurch,Light Green,Colorado,USA,dd,private party import,unk,lro-net,RHD Dormobile
owned since 1976

26406309H,1970,IIa,109,White Rover,Tan,Arizona,USA,dd,unk,unk,lro-net,LHD; Safari top;5 door;deluxe
bonnet;tire mount on bonnet and r-door;rear wiper added;overdrive;11 pass wagon;rear heater;deluze
interior;20 gal SS tank;everything works

24442498G,1971,IIa,88,none,Red,Arizona,USA,dr,Arizona,unk,lro-net,trail truck;military 1 ton shacles;white
spoke wheels;headlights in the breakfast;toyota land cruiser rear folding seats;rancho5000 shocks;future
engine transplant

Thanks,

Let's see what we can learn,

John Casteel

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 07:52:21
From: CarDoctor@gnn.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: Vin for Bonniville V6

Hi All,
 The 1980 engine is out of a bonniville with a vin# of 2N37AAX108346 & the 
distribor is in the front of the engine.
 I am guessing that this makes it a Buick engine but what size?  Can anyone 
tell me what the VIN# brakes down to?
 
Rob Davis_Chicago

Failure is not an option
Not on my watch.......

1971 (88)  Treeweaver
1965 (109SW)  OX
1968 (109 three door)  Dad's toy (only the caretaker)

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 19 Sep 96  8:41:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Wheel part numbers

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Engine oil changes
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 96 13:54:57 BST

> You should try a ratched with the little square centre piece removed. It   
> fits the drain plugs perfectly.

Removed? How can that be done (non-destructively - I'd prefer not to buy
a replacement ratchet!). Would that be big enough - somewhere in the region
of 20-21mm.

Also, even with a decent fitting socket (WW), I can't shift it.

 
> Regarding the sump gasket, I hope you have more luck that me. I have a   
> straight 6 cylinder Chev 4.1 engine in my S III and it's gasket consists   
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> everything and after my 5th attempt have now decided to live with the   
> leak.

I've got the original 4 cylinder 2.25l petrol engine.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Sep 96 07:58:29 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Rebuilt OD

Dave Cockey, panic stricken, asks,

>>>>Has Superwinch stopped production, or has demand gone up and the inventory
vanished. I was hoping to buy one for the SW in a year or so.

They're still making em, as far as I know. They ran out a few months ago and now
they're just starting to trickle in. RN's price went back up to $850, but BP's 
stayed the same at 685. Go figger...

Dave B.
Get on the list and get one while you still can 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 08:40:51 -0500
From: "Herman L. Stude" <hermans@krts.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel part numbers

After discussions with a fellow Rover owner, I have come to find that my
rims have different part numbers.  The rears are standard 231601 but the
fronts are part number 272309.  I can't find the latter part number
listed
anywhere.  It is a 16" rim also and looks like the 231601 rim.  Any
thoughts
on differences of the two would be appreciated.
________
They will have different offset. I think.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Sep 96 10:08:22 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Engine oil changes

Richard laments:

>>>Also, even with a decent fitting socket (WW), I can't shift it.

Assuming "ww" means whitworth, the drain plug should be a standard size, 
something like 13/16"...To my recollection
 
Good luck...

Dave b.

------------------------------

From: "S. Vels" <svels@mail-server.dk-online.dk>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 17:46:48 +0001
Subject: Re: Engine oil changes

- - You should try a ratched with the little square centre piece removed. It   
- - fits the drain plugs perfectly.
- Removed? How can that be done (non-destructively - I'd prefer not to buy
- a replacement ratchet!). Would that be big enough - somewhere in the region
- of 20-21mm.
- 
- Also, even with a decent fitting socket (WW), I can't shift it.
 
I've been following this thread superficially and the plug is still stuck it 
seems. Time to take out the big tools. When mine was stuck my brother 
and i used a brace instead of a hatchet and hammered on the next smaller 
socket (either mm or inch, don't remember). Then we put a hydraulic 
jack under it and put a foot on the brace to prevent it from flying 
around (just in case). Off came the plug. Wear industrial strength 
eye protection (like your arm or whatever). The chrome-vanadium tool 
is now bent.

  
- - Regarding the sump gasket, I hope you have more luck that me. I have a   
- - straight 6 cylinder Chev 4.1 engine in my S III and it's gasket consists   
- 	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)]
- - everything and after my 5th attempt have now decided to live with the   
- - leak.
- 
- I've got the original 4 cylinder 2.25l petrol engine.

Put a steel ruler on both surfaces (sump/block) and see if they are 
straight. Use hylomar on both sides of the gasket. You will need a 
sharp stanley blade next time you change gasket though.

good luck
sv

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 08:57:21 -0700
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: More on DuPont Paint Codes

Uncle Roger wrote:
> At 12:59 PM 9/18/96 -0700, you wrote:
> >retrieve the Centari ("Atlantic British") codes but they have no cross
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> scanned stuff on the same metal to make sure it matched?
> Uncle Roger

Possible but it would take some subterfuge and time.  Centari is not legal 
for sale to customers in specific CA counties (air emissions) so it would have
to be purchased from a shop somewhere in the Sierra, picked up and brought down
here.  Then the trick is that even with that the scanner only gives the mixer
a "feel" for the paint; they often have to adjust the indicated mix to get 
an actual match which ends up being done by eye anyway on a test sample (this 
is what the shop is currently doing for me using both the DuPont provided
weights and a Rustoleum painted panel).

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 12:51:02 -0400
From: m8f@ornl.gov (M Scott Fugate)
Subject: Re: Re: Pontiac vs Buick V6

Bill Adams, 3D Artist/Animator, opines: "Go with Ford.  GM is crap, all of it."

Saaaay, Bill, You're not the artist who draws those pictures of Calvin (the
Cartoon, not the theologian) peeing on the Chevy trademarks, are you?  Just
wondering. 

(Apologies for cryptic reference to Non Americans and other people who don't
live near NASCAR fans.)

Scott Fugate
1970 IIa 88
1989 RR

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 16:05:21 -0400
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Back to the "wheel" problem

Hi all,

I now know that the front wheels are 109 standard issue with a different
offset than the rear 88 wheels.  My question is what harm can come from
this?  I have asked several places including RN and BP and the worst 
I've heard is tire wear may be uneven because the wheels are not in the
same track.

Other than possibly some funkiness when turning sharply (not tracking
true) what are the potential problems with running like this?
-- 
Nate Dunsmore
88" SIIa ("The Blue Brick" http://members.aol.com/naddmd/first.htm )
dunsmo19@us.net

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <WI.Center.for.Dairy.Research@calshp.cals.wisc.edu>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 15:27:17 -6
Subject: Re: Back to the "wheel" problem

snip
> Other than possibly some funkiness when turning sharply (not tracking
> true) what are the potential problems with running like this?
> -- 
As long has the two rear wheels match, and the two front ones match,  
can't imagine any problem at all.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 00:39:29 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Jammed sump drain-plug

Bobeck, David R. wrote:
> Richard laments:
> >>>Also, even with a decent fitting socket (WW), I can't shift it.

Might be too simple a suggestion, but have you tried undoing the sumpl
plug with the engine and oil warmed up?  This may help - If you have
only tried when warm - try when cold - the different temperature may
play a role.

As far as I remember, the drainplus on all british vehicles are
taper-threads, thus overtightning will not only crush the pitch of the
thread (as with a normal nut and bolt) but will also tend to expand the
thread-hole. Maybe attempting to overtighten a little more, before
trying to loosen again will open the hole enough to release?

Worse case yop could empty the oil another way - find an opening to the
oil system (through the fuel pump mount maybe?) and suck the oil out
(maybe use a lenght of plastic pipe fitted to the suction pipe of a
compressed air underseal spraycan to draw the oil - or most of it out of
the engine.

Then remove the sump, and work on the jammed plug on the bench? With an
empty sump you could then use heat from a gasgun to loosen the plug?

Good luck!

-- 
adrian redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
tel: +45 86 57 22 66  e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk

1:	Series III 1976 109" D Pick-up
2:	Series III 1979  88" D Hard top (Icelander)
---------------------------------------------------
"Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!"
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 15:27:15 -0700
From: Heather Dixon <hldixon@top.monad.net>
Subject: Re: Series Database

John,
Here's more for the database.

??,1965,IIa,88,Betsy,red/blue,NH,USA,ur,??,redixonsr@aol.com,unk,350 V8 
Auto;custom roll bar w/ 1/4 roof and sun roof;33" tires;many homemade 
cubbies

??,1970,IIa,88,Ellie,blue/red,NH,USA,dd,??,hldixon@top.monad.net,lro-net	
??,1972,III,88,Rufus,red,NH,USA,pc,??,redixonsr@aol.com,unk,snowplow

Heather 

1970 Series IIa 88 (Ellie)
1965 Series IIa 88 hybred (Betsy)
1972 Series III  88  the parts car
Keene, NH

September 19, 1996
3:27 pm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 21:13:35 -0500
From: Scott Fugate <sfugate@mail.tds.net>
Subject: List Entry

My info for the database:

24441678G,1970,IIa,88,none,limestone over light green,Tennessee,USA,dd,Land
Rover Atlanta Ltd.,sfugate@conc.tdsnet.com,lro-net,Deluxe hardtop station
wagon converted to tailgate rear;Second owner;Originally purchased October
31, 1970 for $3,746.96

Scott Fugate
1970 IIa
1989 RR

------------------------------

From: ARTuro500@aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 22:32:49 -0400
Subject: Crankshaft seal

Would anyone care to offer their experiences with changing out the front
crankshaft oil seal? 

My IIa engine has been losing oil out of this seal for quite a while now and
it seems to be getting a bit worse. And I'm getting some complaints about the
oil slick in the driveway.

Specifically, I would like to know if the job can be accomplished without
pulling the radiator. Is this a bigger job than it seems? Should it be
combined with an inspection/overhaul of the front engine, i.e., thermostat,
water pump, cover, timing chain tensioner?

This rig is a daily driver, which is always a consideration in these matters.

Thanks in advance.

Paul Driscoll
65 IIa 88 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 22:46:07 -0700
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Aircraft starter motors

I have an aircraft starter motor running the winch on my Land Rover and 
recently I found a second one at a garage sale.  My questions are two.  
First what is the plunger on these starters for?  They seem to control a 
rod that goes down into the gear box, but when running they don't seem to 
have any effect on the speed or pulling power.  Secondly, the newest 
motor is 75% gearbox.  The motor is made by a company I think is Jackson 
and Heintz.  Does anyone know what kind of foot pounds these things put 
out.  It must be pretty high, because the unit I presently have is so 
strong it once winched the unit right off the vehicle.  The newest one 
has a very fine drum that looks like it could hold 150 feet of 1/4" for 
example.  I am running them at 12 volts even though they say 24, but of 
course this just cuts the speed.  With the 12 volts they are just right 
for line speed, and with relays, they are fully reversable.  Any aircraft 
electricians know these beasts?  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Subject: Re: Series Database
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 23:36:49 -0600 (MDT)

Here's mine (I'm one of the few who is loyal to one LR):

25407034B,1966,IIa,109,Sali,redbrown,Colorado,USA,dd,unk,tomills@du.edu,lro-net,PU with tailgate;full white hardtop in winter and green bikini top in summer;Fairey overdrive;CH oval sticker;

I know of some 60-80 Series vehicles in Colorado; almost none are on 
lro-net; and I'm sorry but I doubt I'll find the time to collect their 
VINs etc.

T. F. Mills
tomills@du.edu                               University of Denver Library
http://www.du.edu/~tomills                          Denver  CO 80208  USA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 03:47:19 -0500
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Subject: Lug wrenches

Does anyone have a source for good oversized lug wrenches that will not
cost an arm and a leg? The not-rocket-scientists at our local tire shop
have a tendency to set their air-wrench phasers on "kill" when they tighten
lugs. Yesterday I borrowed a mechanic's socket and breaker bar after my
Rover-issue lug wrench bent for the umpty-leventh time. This was after the
shop claimed they had backed off my lug nuts with their air tool. The
standard Rover IIa lug wrench is worse than useless, with its oblique angle
and wimpy handle. It almost guarantees that a $50 road-service call will
follow whenever you have a flat. If you should be out in the woods with
nothing to do, and decide that it is time to rotate the tires, you are in
real doodoo with the stock lug wrench.  See why I really want a portable
air compressor for my Land Rover?

 _______
 |___|__\__==
 | _ |  |  --]   Ned Heite, Camden, DE 19934        <DARWIN><
 =(O)-----(O)=                                        "   "

                             

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 10:05:03 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Lug wrenches

>Does anyone have a source for good oversized lug wrenches that will not
>cost an arm and a leg?
If you feel like importing,John Craddock has heavy duty ones at UKP8.23.
I've got one,and they certainly wont break!Usual method,put wheelbrace
on and jump on it.You would have to state what size wheel nut you have.
The 8.23 includes 17.5%VAT so in your case the cost would be less by
14.9%(dont ask,,,I dont know:-)

Tel 01543 577207
or: 01543 50540
fax:01543 504818
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 96 10:59:46 +0200
Subject: Re: Diesel pump timing on SIII...Hmmm...

Bill,

(sorry if this gets its way to the list twice - mail problems...)

>You don't need any special tools, a half inch socket on an extension and 
>an adjustable spanner is enough.
...
>Remove the small cover on the rear of the Diesel pump (a small amount of 
>diesel will goop out onto your hand).

thanks for the info, but my pump does not have internal marks.  According to 
the manual I have (not a very good one) there are two types of pumps - the 
"earlier" type with internal marks and an "inspection window" (your small 
cover?), and a "later" one with an external timing mark.  Mine seems to me 
the latter.  The problem with this is that the external timing mark is 
supposed to align with a little pointer that is bolted on somewhere next to 
the pump.  The pointer can be adjusted.  So if I don't trust the pointer, 
what do I do?  The manual says I should use special tool #605863, which I 
don't have & don't want to buy.

A friend (who knows what he does, but who does not know land rovers in 
particular) suggested to me that I should disconnect the copper pipe that 
goes from the pump to the injector in cyl #1.  I should then replace it with 
a similar pipe of which the injector-end is cut of in such a way that its 
opening is 100% horizontal.  By observing the #1 inlet valve & (very 
carefully I suppose) the bubble of diesel lying in the open end of the pipe 
I can then adjust the pump.  If i remember correctly he said that just as 
the inlet valve starts to close (/has closed?) the pump should begin to move 
the diesel.

Does this sound like a good idea?

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iwan Vosloo
Department of Computer Science
University of Pretoria
South Africa

------------------------------

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