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From: PDoncaster@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 09:46:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Re: Diff Damage

>immeadiately pull the diffs and replace the bolts. The advice was particular
>to SIII. Does anyone know if this a common problem? Is there a reason it is
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>David Cockey
>Rochester, MI

The diff. on my IIa busted last week. When I opened it up, I found all 10
bolts sheared, and the ring gear (?) completely free. 

Peter Doncaster
'64 IIa 88"

------------------------------

From: "Niel J. P. Fagan" <NF@orc.soton.ac.uk>
Date:          Thu, 12 Sep 1996 13:29:47 GMT
Subject:       Re: Speedo cable end.

Having just replaced mine, square at both ends, 30mins total time 
taken, it is a series 1 after all !Rgds Niel

Views expressed are personal and not those of the 
University, unless otherwise & expressly stated.

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Differentials and Broken Bolts
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 96 10:11:00 DST

I too have sufferred the broken crown wheel mounting bolt problem including 
the schrapnel through the casing symptom. There was a thread some while back 
that mentioned a factory bulletin about replacing these bolts after a half 
shaft had broken.

 It appears that the strength ratio between half shafts and the ring of 
bolts is very close to 1:1 and the overload of half shaft fracture is 
sufficient to yield the bolts which then become loose and vibrate out . My 
crown wheel had all remaining bolts loose two in the axle casing and one 
gone completely.

The failure happened on a dark rainy night and being unable to locate the 
source of the load bag I drove Miss Golightly the 12 miles to home,  in true 
Land Rover Tradition, she made it with no further problems. later I found 
the gaping (1/2") hole in the casing and absence of oil. At least I didn't 
pollute all in one spot.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Sep 96 15:17:56 
From: "Jens Vesterdahl" <jve@phaseone.dk>
Subject: LR speedometers ...

Hi all.

This summer I hauled 6 friends to the Skanderborg Festival as usual. This time 
we had a new guy with with us and apparently he hadn't been in a LR before (his 
usual means of transportation is a Yamaha motorcycle). After an hour of driving 
he asked me: "Is there a speedometer in this car?"
Maybe I should have suspected something here, but as the kind and friendly 
person I am, I said: "Yes".
Then he simply said: "Why?" (The car was filled with laughter here)
That had me thinking for several seconds before I came up with a reasonable 
answer: "If there wasn't, there would be a hole in the dashboard!!"

It's nice to have things looked at from a different point of view, isn't it?

Happy Rovering

Jens "SloMo" Vesterdahl
Copenhagen, Denmark

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 10:23:03 -0400
Subject: Request

get faq a

------------------------------

From: <@lucent.lucent.com:ben@bell-labs.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 10:26:07 -0400
Subject: test, pls ignore

testing, testing.. can anybody hear me..
Jeep is the best..
anybody there?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Sep 96 10:30:43 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Differentials and Broken Bolts

Trevor writes...

>>>The failure happened on a dark rainy night and being unable to locate the 
source of the load bag...snip.... 

Pardon my lack of knowledge, but what is a "load bag"?

Dave "did you check in the ARB locker?" B.

------------------------------

From: "Gene Sparks" <galleryg@techline.com>
Subject: Off road video Free offer
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 08:10:42 -0700

I saw an ad in last months 4wd magazine for the Nissan Pathfinder offering
a free Pathfinder on safari video so for laughs I ordered it. I received it
yesterday and it was interesting to see that they are trying to copy LR at
every turn. British accents and all. The video showed the PF in a variety
of driving situations that any standard car could drive with lots of
exciting music and scenery. WOW I was impressed ROTFL. But what was great
was a free offer that came with the video. If you test drive a PF they will
send you at no cost a pair of Bushnell Binoculars $54.95 value. And to top
it all off the video is sent in a nice zippered canvas bag that I'm sure
many of you could find a use for. If anyone on the list needs some
binoculars and some cheap entertainment, here's your ticket.

Gene
USS Disco

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Sep 96 11:36:22 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: test, pls ignore

>>>>testing, testing.. can anybody hear me..
Jeep is the best..
anybody there?

You wanted a response, I take it? Why don't Land Rover owners go on the J**p 
list and write these kind of things? Because we are secure in our vehicles' 
superiority, and the Land-Rover legend speaks for itself...

Dave "Yes I read the "test" messages"  B.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 08:46:09 -0700
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: SII fuel gauge

> > The fuel gauge on my SII has never worked since I bought it.  It always
> > reads 1/4 full when the key is turned, full or empty.  I've run out of ideas
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> > which I take to mean that the wire isn't broken and current is flowing.
> It does sound like the gauge rather than the wires or the sender.

Try extra cleaning of all the contacts.

I had a problem with my unit reading when I was rebuilding Mathilda. What
solved it was very carefully polishing of both the ground contact for 
the sender and the spade contact for the guage wire.  I initially only cleaned
them off with degreaser etc. but after polishing (0000 steel wool and dremel tool)
the resistance at the contacts drastically decreased and the system worked.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 10:24:31 -0600
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Subject: Re: SII fuel gauge

At 09:45 AM 12/09/96 BST, Richard Marsden, wrote

> I had an intermittent
>gauge problem when I bought mine, and ended up going over the whole curcuit
>from gauge to sender (complicated by a changeover switch).

I'll be doing that Richard.  I've received some excellent advice on how to
track this down but you raise a point about polarity that has been mentioned
by a couple of people who have heard, but not verified, that the sender
won't work if the polarity of the vehicle has been changed.

When I did the changeover I took advice from both Rovers North and Paul
Safari Components that the fuel sensor system needed no modification.  As I
said in my original post, the gauge exhibited the same behaviour before the
changeover.  I really shouldn't be speculating without doing a bunch of
tests but, in your experience, is polarity a potential problem here? 

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/cobracom
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 10:30:41 -0600
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Subject: Re: SII fuel gauge

At 08:46 AM 12/09/96 -0700, Jeremy Bartlett, wrote
I had a problem with my unit reading when I was rebuilding Mathilda. What
>solved it was very carefully polishing of both the ground contact for 
>the sender and the spade contact for the guage wire.

Well that's the simplest thing that's been suggested so far so it'll be the
first I try.

What has me a little worried is the fact that Lucas is supposedly just about
the world's largest supplier of fuel sensor systems for airliners.

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/cobracom
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 13:01:55 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Re: SII fuel gauge

>At 09:45 AM 12/09/96 BST, Richard Marsden, wrote
>> I had an intermittent
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
>polarity a potential problem here?
>                        Rick Grant

        Dear All,
        YES, polarity is a problem... they should have told you that!!! If
you have a stock SII with a positive earth system, all is well, you'll just
have to seek out what part has let you down, and replace or repair it. If
you have changed to a neg. earth system, you them must change to a neg.
earth fuel gauge system. Only a few things get messed up when you go Neg.
earth, and the fuel gauge and ammeter are a few of them *ammeter is easy
though, just reverse the wires*.
        The fuel gauge system will have to be changed to a neg. earth type,
as if you were doing an alternator conversion, same sort of problems apply.
You should find the sender, gauge, and voltage stabilizer from later model,
and install that, as the new system runs on reduced voltage of about 7 or 8
volts, not 12. In the SII gauge cluster, if you want to keep it, you'll
have to grind away some of the cluster housing to fit the new neg. earth
fuel gauge. The locating pins are the same, but the body of the gauge is
bigger and requires that material from cluster be removed. It works though,
and unless your freinds are really quick, no one will ever notice you made
the switch. Our you can change the whole thing to the later style gauge
cluster. * but that brings up even more needed changes!*
        Any problems, email me directly, and I'll explain it better.

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 19:51:26 +0200
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Bores

Steve MARGOLIS <sim1@cornell.edu> wanted to know the difference between 
siamese-bore and spread-bore two litre engines. 

Basically it is like this: Rover found out that the 1.6 litre engine of the 
80" model was not up to all the abuse it was getting from its users, so they 
bored it out to two litres. This became the standard engine of the 80" in 
1952. For structural reasons, however, the cylinders in this engine were not 
placed equidistant, but cylinders one and two as well as cylinders three and 
four sat close to each other, while there was a larger distance between 
cylinders two and three. Thus, siamese-bore - two pairs of "Siamese twin" 
cylinders. While this larger engine provided a lot more torque at lower 
revs, it was not so good at cooling, since there was no space for water 
passages between the twin cylinders. Eventually, in 1955, Rover switched to 
a somewhat redesigned engine with equal spacing between the cylinders, and 
therefore improved cooling, which was called spread-bore. This was actually 
two-thirds of their six cylinder for their better saloon cars. I think the 
easiest way to tell which engine it is is by looking at the exhaust 
manifold; the siamese-bore also has twinned inlet pipes, while the 
spread-bore engine's is more evenly spaced.

The 2.25 that was used later, btw, is a totally different design from both 
the 1.6 and the two 2 litre engines, which are closely related.

Not that there is much chance to see a real siamese-bore engine outside the 
UK any more...

BTW, Steve, could you send details of your 107 S/W, and maybe some fotos, to 
my favourite L-R person in the UK? He has a 107" S/W as his daily driver, 
and repairs and restores S 1's. He is also trying to set up a Ten-Seater 
Register.

L. Stafford Dovey
173/4 Acre Rd.
Carlton
nr. Newmarket
Suffolk CB8 9LF

He got me some used spare parts for mine that I would have thought 
impossible (only about 240 107" S/W were ever sold in the UK).
Regards
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 11:05:24 -0700
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: fuel gauge polarity

Rick Grant asks: >by a couple of people who have heard, but not verified, 
that the sender
>won't work if the polarity of the vehicle has been changed.
snip
>tests but, in your experience, is polarity a potential problem here? 

The II-A (and presumably the III) gages are not magnetically nor 
electrically polarized. (They ARE magnetic and electrical, which is slightly 
different). When you change battery polarity, the fuel gage will continue 
working as it did before. Mine did. When I replaced the fuel tank with the 
later style sender, I discovered that it was not compatible with the 
indicator; a different problem.

'64 109 diesel 5-door (Safari-SoGoody)
jouster@earth.rocket.com (John Ousterhout)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 14:04:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu>
Subject: Re: test, pls ignore

On Thu, 12 Sep 1996 ben@bell-labs.com wrote:

> testing, testing.. can anybody hear me..
> Jeep is the best..vehicle in the world to get stuck in.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Jeep is the best..vehicle in the world to get stuck in.
> anybody there?  With a Land Rover that can pull me out???

Russ W.

> testing, testing.. can anybody hear me..

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 16:32:58 -0500
From: "John P. Casteel" <jcasteel@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Series Database

Dixon Kenner wrote:
 
>         What constitutes a parts vehicle?  What percentage of garbage do
>         you really need to be holding onto when the rest is the most
>         worthless junk lying around (and if it is to far gone for even me
>         to use, I'll guarantee it is probably worthless...  though I do know
>         people worse than me around here...)

Hi Dixon,  thanks for the info.  A Parts car is one that you could still rob even one more part from.  
Destroyed either means that it has been hauled off to the dump or should be.  I am trying (slowly) to 
track down all cars in North America.  Though I have found that this is not the way to do it.

One question that I wish I had asked up front is mileage.  I will send out a private mailing to all 
respondants to get that information.  Might be fun to see the average mileage for our cars.

I have to get to the book store or library to read up on some of the people that you asked me about (in 
you unanswered E-mails to me.)  So, I haven't forgotten them.  They are on a back burner.

cheers,
jc

------------------------------

From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: test, pls ignore
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 07:59:05 +0930 (CST)

> testing, testing.. can anybody hear me..
> Jeep is the best..
> anybody there?

Hi Jan, Mailer problems ????

Hows the V8 109?

P.S. I did get your message about the 4.4L, I'm still trying to avoid 
selling it.......

cheers
-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

From: "Hugh Grierson" <Hugh.Grierson@trimble.co.nz>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 12:23:54 +1200
Subject: Re: Transmission noise

> \>Well, not exactly...reverse for forward facing hills, 1st for
> \>backward ones. Not exactly likely to roll uphill...also you can
> Um. How does the direction of the gear decide which way you'll roll? 

Yeah.  Everyone knows it only depends on which hemisphere you're 
in.
-- 
hugh.grierson@trimble.co.nz

------------------------------

From: "Gene Sparks" <galleryg@techline.com>
Subject: 800 # for Pathfinder Video
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 18:30:34 -0700

Due to an overwhelming response about the PF video and free offer here is
the # for all 800 946 8632 

Gene
USS Disco

------------------------------

From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Master cylinders/silicon brake fluid
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 02:04:34 +0000

  Hi Ho Lads !
   I have been looking into several things on the brake system of my 1966
109 SIIa s/w (under restoration). The first is having the master cylinders
sleeved. The fellow from Oz a short time ago said he used stainless steel.
However, the owner of a Virginia old car restoration co. said he uses only
brass and has for about 30 years. Any one have any experience with these two
materials? Cost is about the same as purchasing new. They come back ready to
install. 
   The second deals with silicon brake fluid (hereafter called SBF). The
owner of this co.sent me reprints from the Jan-Feb 1994 issue of "Octagon"
the American MGB Assoc. According to this article SBF isn't recommended for
hydraulic clutches. This is due to the amount of air. The DOT 5 fluid
absorbs. Any comments from SBF users? For the brakes it seems to be OK,
although there can be slightly mushy feel to the pedal, but not necessarily.
  The second article comes from the October 1993 issue of "British Car".
This one says that SBF has about three times the amount of dissolved air as
glycol ie.15% v/s 5%. Again they say more pedal travel is required for
braking. Now to something slightly different. They go on about the rubber
bits ie.3 used: neoprene for brake hoses , and EPDM rubber and SBR rubber
used in the seals. They say that swelling must occur in either type of brake
fluid. SBF works OK with modern FPDM rubber, but causes SBR rubber to soften
and swell too much causing failure of brake system. I would appreciate feed
back from Landy owners that are using SBF. Pros and cons? What kind of
rubber is used in our brake and clutch systems? EPDM or SBR? Who could tell
us? Anyone from Girling on the Digest?
 Thanks,
  Jim Wolf
  1966 109 SIIa s/w (Vicky)
  Portsmouth, Virginia, USA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 22:24:13 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Re: Crack kills

>>>I noted a small fracture on the exhaust manifold

Lemme guess...from the rear topmost bolt hole (or vicinity) extending 
downwards towards the front of the vehicle.  Now, was the "heat shield" fitted?

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 19:49:55 -0700
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: a satisfied SBF user

Jim Wolf asks about Silicone Brake Fluid. FWIW, here's my .02c:
 First of all, I got several gallons very cheaply at a time I needed to 
rebuild my brakes (again). I've been using it in my '64 109 (single 
reservoir, unboosted) with absolutely no problems for three years now 
(45,000 miles). It shares the reservoir with the clutch. However, I did some 
homework first, that indicated the SBF was not as good a lubricant, 
therefore requiring silicone grease be used on all the pistons. This I did 
by rebuilding all cylinders with fresh rubber parts at once (no honing), 
smearing liberal amounts of the grease inside the cylinders and on the 
pistons, including the rubber bits. The lines were flushed with alcohol and 
blown out with air. Bleeding was normal (pun accepted). I have had good 
pedal since. Last year I checked the cylinders and found the grease still in 
place, with a little dirt only coating the surface, not mixed in. I 
occasionally find water floating in the top of the reservoir, which I remove 
by dipping a towel in it.
I've heard and believe that the problem with our Girling systems has to do 
with condensation and absorbtion of water into the fluid, which allows 
hydrolysis and galvanic action to attack the dissimilar metals in the lower 
parts of the brake system, where the water collects. As I recall, the 
handbook suggests changing (drain and refill, not just topping off) every 
two years (if memory is accurate) when using Girling. I think this would 
also adequately protect from galvanic effects. With (expensive) SBF, the 
water floats to the top, with (cheap) Girling, it sinks to the bottom, to 
the wheel cylinders. 
If and when I run out of cheap SBF, I will change back to Girling, and 
change it annually.

'64 109 diesel 5-door (Safari-SoGoody)
jouster@earth.rocket.com (John Ousterhout)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 23:09:33 -0500 (EST)
From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com>
Subject: 1973 88" SIII LR

This was shorted when I first forwarded it so I will try again.

Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 21:17:38 -0400
X-Sender: garymead@mail.microserve.net
From: "Gary F. Mead" <garymead@mail.microserve.net>
Subject: 1973 88" SIII LR

I got to test drive a series III today. What a differance from my 89 RR
Person wants to sell it for $10.5K
I am interested, but
It has had some frame work
runs nice.
How does one judge the quality of a series ??? What does one look for good
or bad?
has soft top, hard top,2.2 l petrol no overdrive, new tires 78 k miles, new
paint, rear seats, looks real nice
I know that this is for range rovers and the like, but I see that many of
you own Series vehicles
Any help would be appreciated
thanks
gary mead
89 RR

Jeff Kessler
1988 Range Rover
Newport NH USA   603-863-7883   lmkessler@srnet.com

------------------------------

From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de
Subject: off for 2 weeks
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 09:16:15 +0200 (METDST)

Hi folks,
if anyone misses my dumb questions and comments, I'm off to
Corsica (la Corse) for 2 weeks of hopefully sunny climbing. 

Cheers,
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                 tbr1102@sunmail.lrz-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: fuel gauge polarity
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 96 9:16:42 BST

> Rick Grant asks: >by a couple of people who have heard, but not verified, 
> that the sender
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> working as it did before. Mine did. When I replaced the fuel tank with the 
> later style sender, I discovered that it was not compatible with the 
> indicator; a different problem.

The III temp. gauge sitting in my window sill is polarity sensitive,
and I *thought* I saw a polarity marking on the back of my fuel gauge
(could be wrong though).

Thinking it through, and assuming the voltage stabiliser is correct, then
all you *should* need to change is the gauge - swap the terminals if its
polarised. If not, you don't need to.
The sender should be okay, unless its got a protection diode or something in
it (from what I remember, they "vanilla" potentiometers, so no problem).
You can't swap the terminals of the sender, of course!   :-)

If the problem was there before the polarity change, wouldn't this indicate
that the polarity wasn't the main problem?

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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