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From: Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 12:21:17 +0000
Subject:  Re: Transmission noise

\>> Removing the entire mechanism and placing all the parts in an old
\>> bucket, and then bolting the drum back on was the perfect cure.
\>>>>I presume you now have to use your winching anchor to hold the
\>>>>beast on 
\>a hill.
\>
\>Well, not exactly...reverse for forward facing hills, 1st for
\>backward ones. Not exactly likely to roll uphill...also you can

Um. How does the direction of the gear decide which way you'll roll? 
All it is doing is holdingt he vehicle on the compression. So you 
choose the lowest gear regardless of the way it points? I remember 
first is lower than reverse?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 96 07:57:18 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: S III Speedometer cable

>>>??? I have tried two after market cables and they 
round off after five minutes of use...can use use an aftermarket with a 
shim? thanx.g.s.s.

Surely you must be approaching the cost of a genuine cable by now...25 bucks 
really isn't that much to ask. 

Dave B.
I like to know how slow I'm going.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 96 8:02:36 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: S III Speedometer cable

The end of the speedo cable is indeed square. Unfortunately, aftermarket 
cables don't fit despite shimming and futzing. I think we've all been 
through this little rip-off, run-around fiasco at one time or another. 
Get out your wallet.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 96 08:12:23 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Transmission noise

>>>Um. How does the direction of the gear decide which way you'll roll? 
All it is doing is holdingt he vehicle on the compression. So you 
choose the lowest gear regardless of the way it points? I remember 
first is lower than reverse?

Ok, Ok. It's true. He's right. Regardless, I don't suppose it's real likely to 
go anywhere unless you've got some serious engine problems. (Dixon?) 
Also i think reverse is lower, but at this point I'm not sure I know anything...

Cheers

Dave B.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 96 8:09:58 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Refreshing spring!

OK, I was thinking that there must be a way to swap out some funky leafs 
in the rear without going to the expense of buying whole new springs. Has 
anyone tried this? I should think that a couple leafs from an F-150 
should be sufficient replacements. The junkyard is full of these and 
they're more or less giving them away. 
Thoughts ?

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 96 8:15:06 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: S III Speedometer cable addendum

It's my experience that the cable assembly is most easily routed with the 
engine out of the truck. I got a replacement from our friends in Vermont 
and had a near impossible time trying to route the housing up through the 
engine bay and to the bulkhead. I finally got so pissed that I just ran 
the new cable in the old housing and was done with it.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

------------------------------

From: "Niel J. P. Fagan" <NF@orc.soton.ac.uk>
Date:          Wed, 11 Sep 1996 13:28:08 GMT
Subject:       Re: Jerry cans on the back.

Don't do it, 1 smack from behind and goodbye, either put them on a 
roof rack (hard tops only) or secure them inside, anywhere on the 
outside is just too vunerable to contemplate for fuel cans, water 
cans however are a different matter.Rgds Niel

Views expressed are personal and not those of the 
University, unless otherwise & expressly stated.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 96 09:19:36 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: S III Speedometer cable addendum

B. Adams writes....

>>>>It's my experience that the cable assembly is most easily routed with the 
engine out of the truck. 

True indeed. This unfortunately makes it hard to get the end of the cable into 
the speedometer...:-)
I did mine with the engine in both times, and the second time I attached the 
t-box end while the 'box was out. As far as doing it with everything in place, 
the overdrive will REALLY get in the way. Aside from that, pull the floors, 
gearbox tunnle and bulkhead cowling, and tip the bonnet all the way back. Yes 
this means you have to take your spare off, so stop posing...Also removing the 
air cleaner will make it a little more pleasant. If you can climb around in the 
engine bay it aint too bad. 

If the outside of the cable is ok, then just replace the inner part. If you are 
like me, and you route it too close to the exhaust, then you will need to 
replace the entire thing. Just make sure the outside of the cable isn't bent too
sharply or the new inner cable will break too....

Glad to hear you took care of that, Bill...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 14:16:00 +0100
From: "Geoffrey Said" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Subject: Oil Pressure light

I've am noticing that when I break hard over a considerable distance the Oil 
Pressure light lights up.  If you rev the engine or let go lightly the pedal it 
light goes out.  Any suggestions?

Also when I posted the message about oil consumption.  I have made about 
400miles (not 150 as said earlier!!!)  and the engine consumed about 400cc of 
oil. Contempating that the sump gasket leaks I think this is normal.

Geoffrey
1979 Series III 109" diesel.

------------------------------

From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@biddeford.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 09:32:05 -0500
Subject: (Fwd) re Door Skins

I saw this a while back on the Morgan list and thought I'd forward it as 
helpful info on door skin replacement.  While we can get door skins precut 
this looks like a good method for do it yourselfers, disregarding the 
obvious differences in structure.  (If I did this would my LR look like a 
Morgan?)

Ronnie Franklin

------- Forwarded Message Follows -------
From:          ROGER_GATES@TMD.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM
Date:          11 Jul 96 05:51:15 EDT
Cc:            <COPYOUT@GATEWAY1.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM>
Subject:       re Door Skins
Reply-to:      ROGER_GATES@TMD.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM

     To reskin a door.

     1) Make a plywood template approx 0.040" smaller than current door
     skin.

     2) Grind or file edge of old door skin to remove the folded over edge.
     Remove screw/pins holding the top edge to the door frame. The old door
     skin should now fall off.

     3) The inner door skin will now be visible this can left if in good
     condition or replaced using the plywood template as a pattern for
     cutting new parts. The inner wing is then screwed/pinned in place.

     4) The outer door skin cut approx 0.375" larger than the template. The
     excess material is then folded 90 degrees over the template.

     5) This dor skin can now be placed onto the inner skin and frame
     Screw/pin the top edge to the frame, then fold the remaining 4 edges a
     further 90 degrees to grip the inner skin.

     It is easier to do than write

     Roger Gates

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 96 9:33:57 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure light mystery...

Quit using your brakes! you'll wear them out fast!
Oil pressure light may be coming on because there is not enough oil in 
the sump and applying brakes makes the oil move forward in the sump 
reducing the amount of oil pumped to the sender. OR
You have a gogged-up sender. OR
You have a bad oil pump. OR
You have a bad ground on your light.

>From your description, it sounds like it would be a good idea to pull the 
pan, check the oil pump, fit a new gasket to the sump and do an oil 
change. You'll be glad you did!

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 09:36:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: 1973 88" SIII LR

On Tue, 10 Sep 1996, Jeff & Laura Kessler wrote:

> Must be some answers to his questions here.  Isn't there a "How to by a LR
> FAQ" on the Rover Web?  If I hadn't updated my browser last week, I would
> not of lost (misplaced) all my bookmarks.
>.
	http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/OVLR/FAQ.1.look_for.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 96 10:03:37 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: (Fwd) re Door Skins

No, this is not necessary unless the old door skin is completely trashed. 
The aluminum can be crefully bent out enough to remove it from the frame.
 
Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 10:07:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Transmission noise

On Wed, 11 Sep 1996, Bobeck, David R. wrote:

> Ok, Ok. It's true. He's right. Regardless, I don't suppose it's real likely 
> to go anywhere unless you've got some serious engine problems. (Dixon?) 

	Using blocks of wood, actually firewood, to hold the 109 in place
	right now since the two cylinder is sans head and sitting in the 
	driveway infront of the 109, right next to the Series II engine
	fetched last week that is destined for that spot under the bonnet.
	First I have to replace the broken gearbox mounts, and that 
	requires the blue wrench to get them off.

> Also i think reverse is lower, but at this point I'm not sure I know 
> anything...

	Pull the red lever back.  Low first in fwd.  It won't roll anywhere...

	Rgds,

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 21:03:32 +0000
From: ewhite2@ALPHA2.CURTIN.EDU.AU
Subject: Is there a "right" carb & cam for 2.25l?

Hi,
Just looking for advice on what type of carby is good for my soon to be 
rebuilt 2.25l engine. I currently use a weber but I am not impressed at 
all especially as it cost 200 dollars. I intend doing a thorough overhaul 
especially on the head which I hope to have ported with larger valves 
fitted- any clues?!

I would also like to fit a better camshaft if such a thing exists. Is 
there a performance or economy option or am I stuck with the standard cam?
Your comments and advice would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks

Chris White Perth Western Australia

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 22:16:47 -0700
From: karlsson@edgenet.net (karlsson)
Subject: Re: Metrinch  THE SOURCE

ASFCO@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 96-09-10 17:08:57 EDT, you write:
> >e) is also available from
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 22 lines)]
> Rgds
> Steve Bradke

I have all the paperwork to contact the company for a replacement of the 
defective socket.  Maybe I'll actually do it someday!

John Karlsson
Hope Valley, RI

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 96 14:52:45 UT
From: "Douglas Main, jr" <douglastmain@msn.com>
Subject: Series III Diffs

Hello All,

I was just catching up on my lro reading and came Erik van Dyck's post on how 
the bolts on his ring gear in his differential were loose.  Well, I have had 
the same problem twice and much worse than Erik.  The first time it happened I 
was near my parents house and heard a ticking noise coming from the rear of 
the vehicle when I was moving forward.  To investigate the problem further, I 
put the car in reverse and slid off the clutch and WHAM!!! the ticking noise 
went away.  Thinking nothing of it I parked the car on the side of the road 
and went inside.  Later I was pulling in the driveway in my mothers car and as 
the headlight beams swept under the rover I noticed a huge puddle of oil under 
the rear axle.  When I got under the car I discovered the loud wham that I 
heard earlier was the sound of a bolt being driven through the axle casing 
(OUCH).  I ended up pulling the diff out, soldering the the hole shut and 
replacing the diff with an old high mileage Series IIA diff that I had sitting 
around.  The diff I extracted was a god awful mess.  All but one of the ten 
bolts were sheared off and the one that was intact was only finger tight.  
Since it was the original diff from the car I thought maybe it was just a 
torque oversight by whoever assembled the diff in '73 in England.

The diff that I used to replace the broken one was out of my old '66 IIA 88".  
At the time I removed the diff, it had about 150,000 miles on it and was a 
little sloppy interms of backlash, but it still worked and I thought only to 
use it until I fixed the Ser III diff.  So I bought new bolts and locking tabs 
from Rovers North and followed the reassembly instuctions from the factory 
manual ver batum (sp) and put the diff back together.   I installed the Ser 
III diff back in the car and 20,000 miles later on I-84 in CT I noticed a very 
thick film of oil on the back of the car on the way to a wedding.  When we 
exitted the church there was a group of people circling my car.  I thought it 
was just people admiring the car, but they were wondering why there was so 
much oil under rear of the car.  The same thing happened again, this time with 
no noise.  This time I was about 150 miles from my back up diff.  So I removed 
both half shafts locked the front hubs and drove back to NJ very slowly (I did 
not have the socket to remove the rear drive shaft). 

60,000 miles after my last incident I am still riding on my old IIA diff (now 
with about 230,000 miles on it) that has never been rebuilt.  I now very wary 
of repairing that Ser III diff again.  So has anyone else experienced this 
with their SerIII diff.  I to this date have not come to a clear conclusion as 
to what the problem is.  I am wondering if there was a bad batch of diffs from 
the factory in '73.  And has anyone cured this problem?  Post your respones to 
the lro or to me directly.

Thanks for reading,
Doug Main
douglastmain@msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 96 08:48:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: gshaeffer@sunshine.net (Gerald Shaeffer)
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

 Unsubscribe LRO ASAP.

Thanks for the info, I just find that its a little too much all at once.

Gerald

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 12:02:49 -0400
From: Steve MARGOLIS <sim1@cornell.edu>
Subject: RE: S I Air Cleaners

David Mercer and Peter Hirsch are correct that the air filters for the
Series I were oil bath, at least from 1954 to 1957.  According to my Land
Rover Parts Catalog for 1954 - 1957, the 1954 (and presumably earlier
years) came with the filter that Peter described, with a pre-cleaner.

The descriptions, original AC part numbers, quantities, and L-R part
numbers from the book follow:
1954
 Oil bath air cleaner complete, AC 157493  1  217397
  Filter and case, AC 1574939  1  261412
  Oil container, AC 1574932  1  261413
    Toggle clip for oil container  3  262068
  Cork washer for oil container, AC 1574943  1  261414
 Centrifugal air cleaner, AC E/AC 3447  1  217396  (the pre-cleaner)
 Clip fixing cleaners together,  -  1 232992

1955-57
 Air cleaner, AC 7222906  1  263148
   Oil container, AC 7222910  1  264777
   Washer for container, - 1  264778
   Toggle, -  3  262068

In addition, the hose connections to the carb are different.

Can anyone describe the difference between the siamese-bore and the
spread-bore 2 liter (litre) engines that Peter mentioned?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 12:31:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: S I Air Cleaners

On Wed, 11 Sep 1996, Steve MARGOLIS wrote:

> Can anyone describe the difference between the siamese-bore and the
> spread-bore 2 liter (litre) engines that Peter mentioned?

	When they took the 1.6 out to 2l, the spacing between 2 & 3
	was 1/4".  In 1955 (thereabouts) they increased this spacing
	to 3/8".  Curiosily the part numbers for the head don't change
	in my parts catalogue, though the gasket does.  Another catalogue
	states that the gasket stays the same too.  However, there are a 
	number of differences below.  Different crank, bearings, (pistons
	changes etc, but at a particular engine number, maybe not with
	the block)

	Rgds,

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 12:45:52 -0400
From: Steve MARGOLIS <sim1@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: British Invasion in VT

Jeff Kessler said:
>BTW, I spoke with Chris Francis who is on his 2nd Range Rover, a 4.0SE.

Mike Gaetano, the other coordinator, is president of a recruiting firm near
Boston whom I have been working with professionally in searching for my
next position.  Last month, I rode with Mike in his third Range Rover, also
a 4.0SE.  In April of 1995, Mike posted an opportunity to this list for
someone to buy his loaded 1990 County for the trade-in the dealer was
offering him ($17,500).   I hope someone on the list was able to take him
up on that offer.  If he places me in the right position, I will ask him
for first refusal on his current RR when he orders his fourth one.  By the
way, his other car is a Bentley.

Steve Margolis - Ithaca, NY
1957 107 Station Wagon, Series I, Still in kit form in Maine (Damn!)
        serial number 13470093 engine number 114707468

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 10:18:59 +0000
From: petrova <petrova@loop.com>
Subject: Barbie

Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 06:32:59 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: BRITISH CAR SHOW

At 11:52 PM 9/9/96 -0400, Mike Loiodice wrote:

>TeriAnn sez...
;
>>A series III 88 with an engine compartment so clean you could eat off it
;got an award.  LROA got an award for best club participation.  We still had
>>the barbies out and ale flowing after everyone else left.
;
>Sounds like everyone had a good time, but aren't you a bit too old to be
>playing with barbies??
;
>Cheers
>Mike

>Believe it or not barbie doll collecting is a common adult hobby as is
>collecting many other types of special toys.

>TeriAnn

Did you know that Barbies first car was an English sports car?
An Austin-Healey. Barbie has been an English Car Enthusiast for a long 
time.
Check her out http://EnglishCars.com/barbie.html

******************************************************
Ana Petrova
c/o Peter's Marina Motors    800 Lincoln Blvd.
Venice, California 90291    Tel: 310-399-8313
mailto:petrova@loop.com     http://EnglishCars.com
********************************************

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 13:27:09 -0400
From: Steve MARGOLIS <sim1@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: Series Database

13470093, 1957, I, 107, El Armatoste (for now), red and pale yellow, Maine,
USA, ur, I bought it second-hand from Taylor Buick - Land Rover in Rumford
Maine, sim1@cornell.edu, lro-net, If I can find the right Adabas DBA
position in the Boston or New England area - perhaps I'll be able to have
the time and money and locality to finish the restoration.  Any and all
leads appreciated.

Steve Margolis - Ithaca, NY
1957 107 Station Wagon, Series I, Still in kit form in Maine (Damn!)
        serial number 13470093 engine number 114707468

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 12:38:11 -0500
From: Don Scott Wallace <swallace@flash.net>
Subject: Reliability info. on 1991 to 1993 Range Rover County

Thanks for your time.

I was told this was the forum to ask my questions.

my first questions follow:

I am considering the purchase of a 1991 to 1993 Range Rover County but,
I have yet to find any substantial information on the auto.  As this
will be my daily driver, I need to know if there are any nagging
problems (electrical or mech.) with the vehicle.  

In other words "whats the dirt?"

I've heard that the Lucus electrical system was put into the auto up to
some year (which yr. I'm not sure) and could be a problem.  (true/false
& which yr.)

I also need to know what the vehicle and engine's life expectancy
is.

What type of work I can do myself (alternator, water pump) or is it best
left to professionals.

Can some or many of the auto’s parts be switched out with American part
from a local parts house?

Your help will be greatly appreciated.

:-)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 19:49:41 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure light

Geoffrey Said wrote:
> I've am noticing that when I break hard over a considerable distance the Oil
> Pressure light lights up.  If you rev the engine or let go lightly the pedal it
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> Geoffrey
> 1979 Series III 109" diesel.

 Sounds to me like you should check your driveway or garage floor for
oil - you appear to be low.

Don't worry, this is a standard Series III feature, to comply with US
emmission regulations the series II was designed to poluute throught 
the sump gasket instead of the exhaust :-)

Seriously though - it sounds like low on oil!
-- 
adrian redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
tel: +45 86 57 22 66  e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk

1:	Series III 1976 109" D Pick-up
2:	Series III 1979  88" D Hard top (Icelander)
---------------------------------------------------
"Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!"
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 11:53:36 -0600
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Subject: SII fuel gauge

The fuel gauge on my SII has never worked since I bought it.  It always
reads 1/4 full when the key is turned, full or empty.  I've run out of ideas
on how to fix it.

The gauge is in a cluster of three in a one piece unit.  I've verified that
the sender lead is making a good connection at the back of the dial.  I've
tried pulling the sender unit from the tank and manipulating the float
manually with no result.  I've tried the same thing with a different sender
unit.  When I short the sender wire the gauge needle flicks to dead bottom
which I take to mean that the wire isn't broken and current is flowing.

Is there anything I can do at the instrument cluster end which might make a
difference apart from changing the entire unit which I am loathe to do?  In
other words, is there any way to get inside the gauge itself and dicker around?

 

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/cobracom
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 96 19:08:26 
From: "Jens Vesterdahl" <jve@phaseone.dk>
Subject: Re:  S III Speedometer cable

Hi all.

George S. Szydlowski wrote:

>Does the Speedometer cable end that fits into the transfer case have a 
>square or rectangular shape??? I have tried two after market cables and they 
>round off after five minutes of use...can use use an aftermarket with a 
>shim? thanx.g.s.s.

Flame me if I'm wrong here, but I seem to recall that it is oval-shaped. It 
could be that mine is old and worn and had a different shape some years ago.

Jens Vesterdahl
1972 109 STW
Copenhagen, Denmark

------------------------------

From: ARTuro500@aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 14:21:11 -0400
Subject: Database: My rig

Here's the specifics on my rig:

24419352B, 1965, IIa, 88, none, Green/Limestone, Washington, USA, dd, Knievel
Imports Butte MT, lro-net; purchased from original owner 10 years ago to
drive MT backroads on a daily basis; this has been a splendid, bombproof
vehicle and remains in original condition. 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 21:11:02 +0200
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Father of modern Diesel engine died

Dear all, just saw on the news that Professor Hans List, the father of the 
modern Diesel engine, died today, 101 years old. Not only was he 
instrumental in developing BMW's and some Japanese Diesels, he also 
developed one of the first Diesel engine ever used on Land-Rovers, the 
Jenbach two-stroke Diesel made in the late fourties.
Regards
Peter Hirsch
Vienna, Austria

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 21:11:13 +0200
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: debrown@srp.gov

David Brown wrote:

>Yeah, I still have a running vehicle, but it's only "running" in front
>wheel drive right now. (Broken axle on the 109.) I do happen to have a
>spare short axle that came with the 88 when I bought it. But I need to
>tear open the center diff of the 109 to remove the other half of the
>axle, and investigate the gears for damage. 

If the main objective is to remove the Missing Link, there is a relatively 
simple way to do it:
- Build a tool consisting of a long, stiff steel rod welded to a piece of tube 
  a little slimmer than the end of your halfshaft
- Grind out two slots of the tube so they will slide over the spindle for 
the   pinion
- Remove the good half shaft
- Stick this tool in and probe until the slots will go over the spindle and the 
  remaining end of the tube comes in contact with the broken halfshaft
- Hit the end of the steel rod smartly with a heavy hammer (L-R tool no. 1)
- The piece of broken halfshaft should now come flying out the other side of the
  axle. If not
- You need to attach a small strong magnet to the steel rod and go fishing for
  the broken piece lying around in the axle casing.
- Drain the diff oil and fish for fragments lying around inside with your finger
Needless to say, if fragments got stuck in your diff you have to strip it.
Hope this makes sense - having a stripped diff for the measurements helps. 
Also, once you have this tool and carry it with you all the time you will 
*never* break another halfshaft.
Good luck
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 16:08:41 -0700 (MST)
From: Dirk Tischer <dtischer@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: Re: Jerry Cans

I've seen J#$%ps with racks bolted to the rear door that come up and set a
basket up over the rear tire. They run only about usd$170.  Anybody know
if one of those will fit a LR? If so it should fit a view Jerry Cans with
ease.

Also, Does anyone know how much clearence the two front steering arms
need?  I'm wondering how closely I can mount a skid plate to them.

The two dimensions I think I need are (1) the distance below the front arm
the plate should sit (D90 on level ground), and (2) the distance between
that front arm and the bottom of the skid plate, can the plate come under
the front of the first arm?. Artistic rendition to follow: 
        _
Bumper> |
        |--- \
skid->         \     O   O  _
plate            \          _| gap (1)?
 
                  |--| gap (2)?        

If anybody has a skid plate and might have a ballpark on these distances
I'd really appreciate it.  I've got an ARB bumper and want to mount a
plate off the fins that run to the frame, but I want to get as close to
the steering links as possible without interfering with travel.

Thanks, 

Dirk Tischer
94 D90
Tucson, Arizona

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 19:50:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Crack kills...

>>I noted a small fracture on the exhaust manifold
In the 'stitch in time' department. You can sometimes save a casting by
drilling at each end of the crack, an eighth inch hole should do it, and
grind around and along the crack to make yourself a little ditch, then, braze
the crack shut from hole to hole. It's also helpful if you have the casting
heated, too. Say around 5-600 degrees f., but not necessarilly necessary. I
learned this back in the seventies. I had a 142 I used to fly low in and the
stress from the engine rocking, broke the manifold into three pieces. The guy
bolted em to his bench and brazed em together. I installed a torque limiting
extra motor mount and it worked fine.
Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD engine rebuild under way!
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!!

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 19:50:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Series Database

I'm enjoying watching this database come together. It's interesting to see
where some of these LRs have ended up. F'rinstance, Dave Bobeck's 72 series 3
was made twenty units after my parts truck. 25900502a is soooo rusted, I've
had to part it out, for now. Never say never, though, not when the number
plates aren't rusted! Wink,wink,nudge,nudge,&c.
Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD engine rebuild under way!
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!!

------------------------------

From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 08:12:28 +0000
Subject: Amsterdam meeting in '98 (50th b'day)

Does anyone have any details on this event?

date(s)
location(s)
contact(s)
entry cost(s)

etc....

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

However strong my opinions are, they are mine and no-one elses.

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: SII fuel gauge
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 96 9:45:41 BST

> The fuel gauge on my SII has never worked since I bought it.  It always
> reads 1/4 full when the key is turned, full or empty.  I've run out of ideas
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> unit.  When I short the sender wire the gauge needle flicks to dead bottom
> which I take to mean that the wire isn't broken and current is flowing.

It does sound like the gauge rather than the wires or the sender.
The best way to make sure, is to put a multimeter to it. I had an intermittent
gauge problem when I bought mine, and ended up going over the whole curcuit
from gauge to sender (complicated by a changeover switch). Measure
resistance, as well as current. Waggling the sender should vary the resistance.

 
> Is there anything I can do at the instrument cluster end which might make a
> difference apart from changing the entire unit which I am loathe to do?  In
> other words, is there any way to get inside the gauge itself and dicker around?

The gauge should just screw out of the cluster. The SIII cluster is very 
similar to the SII cluster, isn't it? In the SIII cluster, the gauges are
attached by two screws. What with the short wires and the steering wheel
(obviously the latter isn't a problem on a SII), its a faff, but I've had
all three of my gauges (mil, so I have an oil temp. gauge too) out at one
point or another.
The gauges are sealed.
A secondhand 24V fuel gauge cost me L10. 12V should be less. About the same
for a new unit, perhaps?  I'd buy a replacement if I knew it was the gauge
at fault.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

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