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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 06:56:02 -0300
From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
Subject: Re: Parking brake

>all LRs and most coil sprung owners probably have not been into it.

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>I am stuck in my attempt to investigate the reason my parking brake fails to
>release completely.  I believe the release springs are responsible.
I used to have the same problem with both a serIII 88 and a 109 ser II.
Both needed periodic doses of wd40 at the point where the lever actuates
the drum component at the transmission. (NOT the drum itself, obviously).
The stuff under there just seemed to get gritty and seize up now and again.
Your problem may be something else altogether of course.  Good luck.

Steve Paustian
95 arles blue D90 SW
95 coniston green D90 SW

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Sep 1996 08:17:53 -0400
From: Ernie Young <ernyoung@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

If you don't want the V-8 in your 109 I would have to say that the MB 5
cylinder deisel should do a good job...I own a 79 300d wagon and am very
happy with the reliability of the engine even though it only has 179,000
miles on the OD...I also have a 240d with the 4 cylinder deisel (420,000
miles)...that engine outperformed the 5 cylinder I have now...Can't be
sure if that would be consistant with all the 4 & 5 cylinder diesels but
that was the case with my two mbs...I have been told that even fresh
from the factory some mercedes deisels would be rockets and some would
be dogs...I guess if you can test the engine before you install it would
be your best bet...If you could send me info on the kit or the guy that
would be great...

Ernie Young
16 Clyde Street
Providence RI 02908-1515
401-861-3811

90 RR county
79 MB 300TD
77 MB 240D (paperwieght/ possible Landie donor)
 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 09:35:48 +0100 (WET DST)
From: David Bothe <bothe@ns.itz-koeln.de>
Subject: Mercedes Benz Diesel Engine

Hi!

I am thinking about swaping the V8-engine of my SIII 109 Station with a
Mercedes Benz 300 D Diesel engine. A Guy in my town offers cits to fix
non-rover machines to Landys. The cits consist of a special disc, to fix
the engine to the gearbox and some transmission parts. He sells it for
700
DM (450-500 $, I think). What do you think about this? Is it fair? What
are your experiences with non-rover engines?

Thanx,

David

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Sep 1996 08:14:35 EDT
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: EU

The supposed reasoning behind the parts laws are to prevent low quality,
dangerous, spares from entering the market. There was also mention of
the manufacturers pending millions to develop parts only to have them
copied by a third party.

European laws in the main seemed aimed to take a totally reasonable
activity and make it illegal in the name of something quite far fetched.

If pattern brake parts are not allowed, how many people are going to try
to stretch as much mileage out of their old set to save a few quid? Bad
example I know as OEM braking components usually work best, but you see
the point.

The anti-tampering laws for motorbikes are frightening. They would make
it impossible to strip the engine of a bike. With two strokes this is
required on a regular basis to de-coke the engine, especially if you use
cheap oil. The logic behind this was to stop engines being modified with
high performance reed valves (clever parts of the intake manifold for
those who don't know). After all we can't have Kevin on his little 125
increasing the power by changing his reeds & thus making the bike
illegal. Lets make him buy a new engine every time it needs a de-coke!

The reality is that reed valves haven't changed in 15 years. The only
improvement from changing them is if they were worn out. This obsession
with legislation to prohibit everything which could be deemed as
slightly bad is frightening.

It's odd, but the head of the EU automotive group is a nice chap called
Herr Bangermann. Most of the laws he has brought in have been aimed at
eliminating small, fast or chain driven motorbikes.

Mmmm, there is a certain German motorbike company who makes large,
relatively slow shaft driven motorbikes who will not be particularly
affected by most of his recommendations. Guess what his next target will
be after he has eliminated Japanese motorbike sales in Europe. THE CARS.

This is all a gross breach of our freedom.

Along with the Pattern parts laws and anti-tampering (which will end up
on cars soon) there are also laws in the pipe line to bring in German
style TUV tests.

By this you will not be allowed to modify a vehicle in anyway without
the part being approved by the manufacturer or you going through the
expensive procedure of having it approved yourself.

Modifications include fitting a different brand of tyre to the one which
came supplied. Alloy wheel? No alloyed (crap joke!) unless approved.
Same goes for winches, snorkles, seats...

There can't be many Land Rovers out there which are totally un-modified.

As for these lunatics who fit non-original spec engines... Lined up and
shot is too good for them :-)

Time has come to write to MPs, MEPs, your gran (get her to write as

well!), anybody else who might be useful to get this stopped.

The European Union is great in the common market sense, but not in the
United States of Europe sense. If I wanted to live by French, Italian or
German laws I would move there and live by them!

There is a list of MPs at http://www.Parliament.uk/lib/almsped.htm

It's in alphabetical order by name so if you don't know your's it's
not too hard (assuming you know the constituency).

You can write to them at the following address:

Mr (Mrs) MP WhoWouldLikeMeToVoteForThem
Houses of Parliament
Westminster
London

In these sorts of things they count the numbers of letters, not
signatures.  ie a 10000 name petition counts as much as 1 letter!

Start writing now!

If I find a list of MEPs I'll post that as well.

Have a look at http://www.soton.ac.uk/?nss194/index.html for the
sceptics view of europe

The official EU pages are at http://www.helsinki.fi/?aunesluo/eueng.html

Get writing!

Steve

Steve Reddock, Xyratex        |  "NEVER QUESTION AN
Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450      |   ENGINEER'S OPINION,
IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P)            |   YOU THUNDERING MORON !"
Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com  |     - Dogbert 1996

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Sep 1996 13:42:08 +0100
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Top Gear and Euro Legislation

Tom Rowe said:
> Maybe I'm dense, but since the head of the bolt is what retains
> whatever is bolted, how would this work?

The hexagon head is separated from the retaining head by a shearable 
waist, so that when the hex head shears off, the remaining (round) head 
retains the component. This type of bolt is in fact used to hold the 
steering lock bracket to the frame on my SIII 88" (Have a look at 
yours.). I do not tighten it enough to shear off the hex head, though, 
because I do want to be able to remove it. The bolts are referred to in 
the Land Rover manual.

> Also seems it would make it *very* expensive to get repairs done.

That, of course, is the point. No repairs - new engine, gearbox, etc. Or 
just scrap the vehicle.
The motor manufacturers in Europe are trying to force us to buy new cars 
more often. If new car prices in Europe were more realistic, this might 
just be acceptable. After all, with new mass production engineering 
techniques, build prices have come down significantly, and reliability 
and longevity has increased. But still, personal choice is a freedom we 
don't want to lose.

-- 
David Olley
...............................................................
New Concept
PO Box 61, Winchester, SO23 0HA, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
...............................................................

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Sep 1996 13:41:48 +0100
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Air Tools

Floris Houniet wrote:

> Correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems more logical to use an electric 
> compressor as it can also be used when the engine doesn't work... 
> which is also the time that you will most need your air tools !?

Well you make a good point, but, as I said, air tools require a lot of 
air, and I am not aware of any 12V electric compressors which will 
deliver the required volume and pressure. If one did exist it would 
require a motor more powerful than the starter motor, and just think how 
long your battery would last with that load. You may get the job done 
but would have a flat battery.

You could use a mains compressor and largish output generator, but I 
think this is going too far! They would never fit in the ARB locker.

If anyone does know of a really good, high volume output 12V compressor, 
please let me know. The Hella "Optilux" has been taken off the market, I 
believe, and that was the only one worth using. The various Halfords, 
Argos etc. 12v tyre inflator compressors are simply a waste of time and 
space.

-- 
David Olley
...............................................................
New Concept
PO Box 61, Winchester, SO23 0HA, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
...............................................................

------------------------------

From: daviscar@concentric.net
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 08:57:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: BRITISH CAR SHOW 

At 05:01 AM 9/9/96 -0400, you wrote:

HI All 

Well the show was fun. Over 700 cars showed up. about 23 Rovers showed
including my 1959 109sw. The brakes are not fix yet but with the back brakes
clamped off  it stopped ok, the show was not vary far from me so. I got there.
I meet a few new people which is great. how ever I did not see Tom there.

Tom did you make it?

the oldest car there was a 1920 Rolls. 
None of the Rovers got an award.

Hey Bill did anyone get the long distance award?

The weather held for most of the day some light rain about 2 sent a lot of
converts running. for those of you who plain a head for this type thing it
is held the second weekend in Sept every year on Sunday.
Maybe next year we will be less out numberd.
Bruce
67 SIIA 88 Patches
59 109 SW (no name yet) (home now.)
Daviscar@concentric.net
       

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Sep 96 8:55:48 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: A lovely mess...

OOPS. Just a quick reminder to all you diesel owners:
When the manual says "with the cylinder ascending the bore" that means 
that you have to have valves one and two >closed< when the 16 degree 
timing mark is lined up. Otherwise, you'll be crankin' that pup all night 
long and it won't go.
Also it is helpful to turn the engine a few times and recheck the setting 
so that the backlash from the gear drive is taken up.

I love diesels; no muss, no fuss, no points, no plugs....

p.s. keep lots of kitty litter on hand for the torrents of diesel fuel 
that come from the pump and filters.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

------------------------------

From: EvanD103@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 09:16:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Diff Damage

Hello all,
   I have just spent most of the weekend under my '73 Ser III installing an
ARB Air Locker. ( Thanks Rob Dennis for the loan of the spanners and gauge:
they came in handy.)  The job is nearly complete - 'have only the air line
between the compressor and rear diff to route and connect.  It'll take a
little longer to get the 90wt. and dirt out of my hair though.  The reason
for this posting - when I got the rear diff out and apart I found two of the
ten bolts holding the ring gear (or crown gear) to the carrier were broken,
the other eight were loose.  They were kept from unscrewing competely by the
five locking tabs.  There was slight damage to the carrier by fretting of the
gear against it.  I had noted no abnormal noises, wonder how long this has
been like this.  I also wonder what the front diff is like.  With FW hubs it
doesn't get much use, so I think I'll just leave it alone, but would welcome
comments on this disconcerting find in the rear diff.
  erik
Erik van Dyck
Stone Mountain, Georgia
1973 Ser III  88"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Sep 96 9:34:01 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Air Tools 2

The myth that everything has to be run off the engine seems to be getting 
a bit out of hand. If field air power is needed there are any number of 
small gasoline powered compressors out there designed for contractor use. 
I would recommend the units made by Emglo as being most reliable and 
commonly used. They produce a "pancake" type of unit that has a small 
reservoir and a 3 horse engine. 
The advantage is that they operate independently of the vehicle and are 
generally light enough to carry from place to place without too much 
struggle.
No, you can't run your air locking diff from it, but that's not what it's 
for. 
I've used this kind of compressor to run nail guns, impact wrenches, 
chisels and the like during my carpenter days. The engine runs constantly 
on the smaller models and powers the pump on demand.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 09:55:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: LR toys for sale

On Mon, 9 Sep 1996, T.F. Mills wrote:

> A while ago, Dixon posted a message about Robin Craig's large toy and 
> model collection going up for sale as a single unit.  He was unable to 
> find a buyer, and is now prepared to sell individual pieces.  Contact 
> Robin and he will send you a list of pieces:
> (he no longer has an email address) 

	Fourfold is still dead with parity and disc problems.  I can relay
	e-mail requests if people send them to me.  He still has quite a 
	pile of stuff kicking about, some of it is a bit rare.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 15:10:24 +0100
From: whastelow@atlas.co.uk (Simon Ward-Hastelow)
Subject: Re: Parking brake

>My problem are the 2 No. 5? phillips head screws that hold the drum on.
>They will not move and are starting to round off.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>remove with visegrips?
>Jeff Kessler

I had a similar problem last ytear but I wussed-out and got a
'professional' to do it.

However, regarding your corroded and rounding-off screws, my father put me
onto a possible solution for another job.

In UK we can get something called 'Easy-Outs' these are reverse threaded
bolts. What you do is drill into the stuck bolt/screw a little and then
screw in the 'easy-out' as it is reverse threaded when it tightens, your
action of tightening further acts to loosen the stuck one and out it comes
- well thats the theory anyway!

I don't know where to get them from as my father uses them where he works
so he just 'borrows' them for me.

Good luck

___________________________________________________________________

Simon Ward-Hastelow

Orpington, Kent, U.K.

whastelow@atlas.co.uk

___________________________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Sep 1996 10:12:28 -0400
From: Rob MacCormick <Rob_MacCormick@Harvard.Edu>
Subject: grease is the word

As I was getting ready for a 200 mile or so journey in our IIa I was
crawling around and  filling boxes with 90wght and pumping grease in the
zerk fittings that I came across....When I got to the rear end of the rear
prop shaft I noticed that the U-joint inner (shaped like a "+") was missing
a zerk fitting....Instead there was a hole into which I inserted some grease
(probably now serving as a rust preventative on the bottom of the body)
Anyway....Am I correct in thinking that there ought to be a fitting here and
that it flew off somewhere along its life? This was the first time I greased
anything on the vehicle (recent acquisition) so I don't know how long the
fitting (if there ever was one) has been missing. How do I determine the
condition of the U-joint? What else should I be greasing? I found fittings
on the accelerator linkage (likely associated with chevy conversion) and
along the prop shaft...What's the easiest way to grease the steering ball
joints how many are there?
What other advice you got? Easy...Easy....Keep it clean.....

We also began the economic rationalization plan for spending the big bucks
for the dormobile....We slept in it for the first time following a
wedding/reception that we attended! A few thousand nights more and we'll be
even.....Rob M Concord, MA USA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Sep 1996 16:20:42 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Parking brake

Simon Ward-Hastelow wrote:
> >My problem are the 2 No. 5? phillips head screws that hold the drum on.
> >They will not move and are starting to round off.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 34 lines)]
> Orpington, Kent, U.K.
> whastelow@atlas.co.uk
> ___________________________________________________________________
The left-hand threaded screw-extractors are fine if used on large
threads, but on smaller bolts (below 8mm Ø) they have a tendancy to
break like a overstressed thread-tap. I made just that mistake trying to
loosen the hub-screws on my Ferguson 31, which resembles the LR problem.
I have found no substitute for heat - making a spot weld onto the head
of the screw or bold can be a handy idea, as can welding a piece of flat
bar onto the head and using this as a handle to undo the bolt, which
will have been loosened by the heat of welding. A liberal deposit of
WD40 will maybe also help.
-- 
adrian redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
tel: +45 86 57 22 66  e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk

1:	Series III 1976 109" D Pick-up
2:	Series III 1979  88" D Hard top (Icelander)
---------------------------------------------------
"Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!"
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  9 Sep 96  6:49:20 EDT
Subject: Re: gauges

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <WI.Center.for.Dairy.Research@calshp.cals.wisc.edu>
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 10:23:07 -6
Subject: Re: BRITISH CAR SHOW 

> Tom did you make it?

Nope. During the final (I'd hoped) assembly of my steering box on 
Saturday, I dropped it. It's no fun, I guarantee, chasing little ball 
bearings all over your driveway. That, combined with the fact that 
I'd misplaced a part of my turn signal switch, but the brakes on me 
making it to Des Plaines for the show.

On that note. Does anyone (in the US) have the little half bracket that is used 
to attach a Series III turn signal switch to the steering column? It 
would have to be off a parts car as the replacement switches don't 
come with them.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 08:38:00 -0700
From: Bruce.Curtis@Eng.Sun.COM (Bruce Curtis)
Subject: Re: Vinyl stickers

Ok, it's time to get this thing going, a few of the stickers were sold
at the Palo Alto BFM on Sunday, i'ave gotten mostly positive feedback.

The only issue raised by a few was concerning the cost of $15US, well
let's just say that between production (time and material by my nonLRO
buddy) and packaging and shipping (material by me) we wont get rich.

So, here's the deal, send $15US (no cash please) with either a clear
return snail mail address on the envelope or in addition just E-Mail
it to me at:

Bruce Curtis
1220 N. Fair Oaks Ave. #3112
Sunnyvale, CA  94089

Bruce.Curtis@Eng.Sun.COM

When i receive and cash your check i'll add your name to a ship-to
list, then every so often order the stickers and ship them.

Later, Bruce.
'95 Disco

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 16:51:17 +0200
From: Defender@belgonet.be (Luc Rokegem)
Subject: re: gauges

Hi Philippe,

Your problem concerning the gauges not working IS electrical !
It has nothing to do with capillary gauges otherwise  the fuel gauge was
still working.  I remember that you last rebuild your steering,  I think
that you should check the dash, probably there are some wires loose.  It
looks too coincidence .  

regards,
 

            _______________    Luc Rokegem
           //   |          |   St-Pauwels (Belgie)
    ______//_ _ |          |#  defender@belgonet.be
    |   __            __   |#  http://www.belgonet.be/~bn000165/index.html
    |__/  \__________/  \__|  
       \__/          \__/      lawyers and Land-Rovers must be well greased

------------------------------

From: Andy Purser <apurs@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: unsubscribe
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 16:11:09 +0000

UNSUBSCRIBE

------------------------------

From: BwanaE@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 13:44:48 -0400
Subject: 2.5 litre petrol cam info

Anybody out there have the factory shop manual for a Landrover equipped with
the 2.5 litre petrol engine ? If so, could you please look up in the
"specifications" section the camshaft timing information ... ie: "exhaust
valve begins to open at __o BTDC" etc .

I need this info as I've installed the 2.5 cam into my newly overhauled 2.25
petrol, and it will simplify the cam timing process.

Many thanks,    Eric Cope     <  BwanaE@aol.com  >

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Sep 1996 19:56:52 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Series III springs

Just got the price on a new set of springs for the 88 here in Denmark,
DKr 800 ($139 / £89) each for the front and DKr 950 ($165 / £106) each
for the rear, including new bushes and bolts - does this sound like a
good deal? Any better ideas from any Danish readers?
-- 
adrian redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
tel: +45 86 57 22 66  e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk

1:	Series III 1976 109" D Pick-up
2:	Series III 1979  88" D Hard top (Icelander)
---------------------------------------------------
"Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!"
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 14:16:52 -0400
Subject: Social Circle GA

Sandy Grice writes "I can do even better...I can tell you where the US trials
are.  First off, 
the next year's trophy is going to be in Mongolia.  Not much mud there.  The 
US trials are going to be in Social Circle, Georgia in December.  "Social 
Circle, GA???" you say?  Yup, about 50 miles east of Atlanta just north if 
I-20.  Cheers"

Interesting.. North Point Land Rover has a farm in the area where they take
new owners for a bit of off-road training.  And, they just took delivery of 5
of the Discovery Trek vehicles.   I think the farm is about 400 acres in size
with several small streams and hill, woods, etc.  It all seems to fit rather
nicely doesn’t it.  

Gerry "Social Circle?  Been there by bicycle and Land Rover" Elam

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Sep 1996 13:24:34 -0500
From: "Herman L. Stude" <hermans@krts.com>
Subject: Air Locker

Hello all,
   I have just spent most of the weekend under my '73 Ser III 88"
installing an ARB Air Locker. 
Erik van Dyck

I've got the same vehicle as Erik, and am new to the list.  Can anyone
refer me to some info showing the pro's and con's of an ARB air locker. 
I spend much time bouncing around on rocks and sand how will one of
these guys help me get around?  Thanks in advance.
-- 

Herman L. Stude

hermans@krts.com   
1973 88" SIII

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Sep 1996 20:39:36 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: LANDY LINGO

Hej folks!

I've been a subscriber here for three weeks, already I'm addicted, but
sometimes I don't feel as if I've been rovering for 15 years - all this
jargon!

Maybe we should start a "Landy Lexicon" translating some of these LRO
terms for new (and older) owners - things like "Headlights in the
Breakfast" Gaiters, ARB locker, Ranchos, Torpedo (Danish for SIII
firewall), the list is long.

I may have been rovering a decade and a half - but there's lots to learn
yet. If anyone is interested in contributing, I'll put a page of my
homepage at our disposal for an alphabetical register of Series Lingo.

Suggestions and contributions welcome.

-- 
adrian redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
tel: +45 86 57 22 66  e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk

1:	Series III 1976 109" D Pick-up
2:	Series III 1979  88" D Hard top (Icelander)
---------------------------------------------------
"Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!" (SOMETIMES!)
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Sep 96 14:28:32 EST
From: rscholl@lib.com
Subject: Returned mail: Host unknown (Name server: landrover.team.net

Subject: Re: grease is the word
     
Rob M. Concord, MA
     
Rob, 
     
        My only experience with the U-joints has been to replace one on the 
front prop shaft of my 1970 SIIa RHD landy.  The joint had obviously been dry 
and had a considerable amount of 'slop' or play.  The process is quick when you 
have the parts on hand (I was fortunate enough to have a spare from a friend) 
but should be available locally.  Colonial Automotive in West Acton (just of 111
next to the post office) examined a similar joint from my old project car and 
had the part in stock.  A few 9/16 open end wrenches, a hammer (maybe a punch), 
and some grease!  If you have not replaced one before, beware that when you 
replace them, turning the 'cups' upside down and tapping is not advisable - the 
needle bearings will drop out!  I think the part ran about $12.xx ??   Feel free
to send a question or 2 back over - Good luck.
     
Ray S,  Acton, MA
> Subject: grease is the word
> Author:  Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com at mailgate 
     
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 38 lines)]
> even.....Rob M Concord, MA USA
> --OAA09737.842292684/fw.lib.com--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 16:21:19 -0400
From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: Where's the Camel Trophy next year?

>1. Hold it in Manhattan using the new Range Rovers. Competitors from all
>countries would complete special tasks such as:Winching over taxi, obstacle
>course (sidewalk), best time frome SoHo to Uptown at 5:30 pm, Team Shopping

I might just be a shoe-in for the best time Soho to Uptown in that time
slot -- especially if I'm motivated by an intense desire to catch the 5:58
train back to civilization.  What sounds like a Camel Trophy event to some
is just part of my daily commute -- at least it was back when I worked for
NYU.

I shouldn't reveal reveal any "professional secrets" here, but the smart
teams here will opt for taking the subway.  The steps shouldn't present
much of a problem for the Rangies suspension, and the "bull bar" will
easily deal with the turnstyle (or even easier the special entrance gate)
and any pedestrians trying to jockey for position.  It might take a few
minutes to winch your way back up the stairs to street level when you
arrive uptown, but you'll still arrive well ahead of the teams electing to
take surface routes -- unless of course you're unfortunate enough to have a
"sick passenger" delay.  Even that isn't so bad as it's usually easy enough
to convince one of the "friendly natives" (hearts and minds!) to toss the
poor person out on the platform -- allowing you to continue on your
journey.  (You think I'm kidding?  I've seen it done -- several times--even
once when the "sick" person was no longer amongst the living.)

Of course, the best part of this whole idea is that it meets one of my
primary criteria for motorized vehicle competition: The best race car in
the world belongs to someone else.

RoverOn!

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg          Purple Shark Media                 Rowayton, CT

                         jeff@purpleshark.com
                          ==================
               My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
          My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
                       Taste for the good life,
                      I can see it no other way.
                                --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Sep 96 16:18:37 EST
From: rscholl@lib.com
Subject: re: Grease is the word

     To: lro@landrover.team.net 
     Subject: Re: grease is the word ****       
     
     Rob M. Concord, MA
     
     Rob, 
     My only experience with the U-joints has been to replace one on the
     front prop shaft of my 1970 SIIa RHD landy.  The joint had          
     obviously been dry and had a considerable amount of 'slop' or play. 
     The process is quick when you have the parts on hand (I was         
     fortunate enough to have a spare from a friend) but should be       
     available locally.  Colonial Automotive in West Acton (just off 111  
     next to the post office) examined a similar joint from my old        
     project car and had the part in stock.  A few 9/16 open end         
     wrenches, a hammer (maybe a punch), and some grease!  If you have   
     not replaced one before, beware that when you replace them,         
     turning the 'cups' upside down and tapping is not advisable - the   
     needle bearings will drop out!  I think the part ranabout $12.xx ?? 
     Feel free to send questions back - Good luck.
     
     Ray Scholl,  Acton, MA
     rscholl@lib.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 00:21:13 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Series III springs

I'm just about to embark on replacing all four springs on a series III
88" - would be glad to hear from anyone else whose done this themselves.

I have a good large workshop with solid floor, a 2 ton hydraulic jack, 2
stands which can support one end of the car, and lots of compressed air
for the nut-spinner. Is this enough?

What is the best way of supporting the axle and springs when dismantling
and reassembling? What is the best order to do the job in? Should I weld
up some form of stand(s) to support the axle at it's "normal"
without-wheels height, before removing the springs. How does this whole
operation affect the steering. Do you take the shocks off first? Can the
job be done without disconnecting the brakes and transmission?

The new springs come complete with the bushes and bolts which go through
the curled ends of the springs - do I need anything else. Should the
U-bolts be changed?

ANY ADVICE WELCOME! THANKS!
-- 
adrian redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
tel: +45 86 57 22 66  e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk

1:	Series III 1976 109" D Pick-up
2:	Series III 1979  88" D Hard top (Icelander)
---------------------------------------------------
"Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!"
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 09 Sep 96 16:59:09 MST
Subject: Good week for waving...

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486

Just thought I'd let you know that I had a good week for "waves" last
week. I got return waves from 2 RR's while driving my 109 last week. One
was a white RR with 2 "young" (under 30?) women in it. At first I
thought it was just my "animal magnetism" that attracted a return wave,
but then, a few days later I got another return wave from a gentleman in
a RR. Both were in Mesa Arizona. Anyone??

Dave (the animal) Brown ;-)

#=======#         _________         "What lies behind us and what lies
|__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___    before us are tiny matters compared
| _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ - _|}  to what lies within us."
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                     Ralph Waldo Emerson

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 09 Sep 96 17:06:03 MST
Subject: Finally got the 88 running!

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486

Some of you may remember that I toasted my clutch in my '71 IIa 88 over
a year ago, in July '95. Well, after a VERY slow transmission rebuild
and clutch replacement it's finally back in running order! The battery
was dead after all that time, but without much cranking, it started
right up. Incredible devices, these Land Rovers... While it was down, I
also replaced the steering track rod, and both track rod ends, and I
still have to replace the floor, have it emission tested, insured, and
licensed, but at last there's forward progress!!

I'm excited! Thanks for letting me share in my excitement! (It doesn't
take much to get me excited, as you can tell! ;-) )

Dave (very excitable) Brown

#=======#         _________         "What lies behind us and what lies
|__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___    before us are tiny matters compared
| _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ - _|}  to what lies within us."
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                     Ralph Waldo Emerson

------------------------------

From: "S. Vels" <svels@mail-server.dk-online.dk>
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 01:55:08 +0001
Subject: Re: Series III springs

> Just got the price on a new set of springs for the 88 here in Denmark,
 DKr 800 ($139 / =FA89) each for the front and DKr 950 ($165 / =FA106) eac=
h
 for the rear, including new bushes and bolts - does this sound like a
 good deal? Any better ideas from any Danish readers?

> adrian redmond

Try to ring Midtjysk. I got my rear springs there for about DKK one 
plovmand (500) plus tax/vat/moms (25%). Bushes was incl. Remember
to specify length of bolts with this shop!!!

You live in the neighbourhood, so picking them up is probably chaper 
than shipping.

rgds
sv/aurens

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 17:46:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Howton <andrew_howton@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: 109 frames & 2.25L 5main blocks for sale

At 07:30 AM 9/9/96 +0000, you wrote:
>military frame that has been galvanized for 750 CND (about 563 US)?  I need

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
>Peter Rosvall
>rosvall@mi.net
Hi Peter, where do you live?  There is a main rail line and the  trans
Canada highway passing through Calgary.  Shipping cost, I don't know.

Andrew

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 17:48:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Howton <andrew_howton@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: 109 frames & 2.25L 5main blocks for sale

At 07:30 AM 9/9/96 +0000, you wrote:
>military frame that has been galvanized for 750 CND (about 563 US)?  I need

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
>Peter Rosvall
>rosvall@mi.net
Hi Peter, where do you live?  There is a main rail line and the  trans
Canada highway passing through Calgary.  Shipping cost, I don't know.

Andrew

------------------------------

From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re:senseless legislation (was EU)
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 10:23:07 +0930 (CST)

Steve Reddock has struck a chord with me on this one.:
> This obsession with legislation to prohibit everything which could be 
> deemed as slightly bad is frightening.

Yeh aint it. :-(  as Mike R might say no room for common sense.

He in good old South OZ the new firearms laws came in yesterday.

With the new legistation it became illegal to *use* your self loading 
rifles/shotguns.  Now the government have given us a 3 month amnesty to 
return them, but were swamped on the first day and cant understand why.  
Hey if I cant *use* it during the amnesty I want to hand it in so I can 
buy something I can *use*.  It doesnt take a genius to realise that if  
> 60,000 people are affected, its going to take a more than a tent at the 
police barracks to handle the volume.

OB LR content:  At least now the LR wont get abused so much running 
around chasing foxes in the scrub.

Sorry I just needed to vent 

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 21:24:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Re: Diff Damage

Erik's SIII had a problem:
>The reason
>for this posting - when I got the rear diff out and apart I found two of the
>ten bolts holding the ring gear (or crown gear) to the carrier were broken,
>the other eight were loose.  They were kept from unscrewing competely by the
>five locking tabs.

I remember reading somewhere that if you bought a SIII, you should
immeadiately pull the diffs and replace the bolts. The advice was particular
to SIII. Does anyone know if this a common problem? Is there a reason it is
specific to SIIIs, or are SII/IIAs also suspect. Thanks

David Cockey
Rochester, MI

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 21:39:26 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Mid-Atlantic Rover Rally

An update.  So far, we have received over *50* reservation forms.  If this 
year is anything like last, that means 150+ vehicles!!!

Anyway, I called Mike the other day to enquire as to any damage Hurrican 
Fran might have done.  A few dead trees down across the course, but nothing 
major.  And the mud bog that we reinforced with sandbags two weeks ago is 
*chock full*.  Maybe we'll have enough for the "Ontario Mud Maniacs."

As to the "Aluminium Man Triathlon," if you are planning on competing, 
you'll need a compass.  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 18:51:46 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: BRITISH CAR SHOW

At  8:57 AM 9/9/96 -0400, daviscar@concentric.net wrote:
>At 05:01 AM 9/9/96 -0400, you wrote:
>HI All
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>clamped off  it stopped ok, the show was not vary far from me so. I got there.
>I meet a few new people which is great. how ever I did not see Tom there.

Weii the show this last Sunday was indeed fun. I think the total mumber of
British cars that showed up was closer to 500 to 600, and there was a long
double row of Land Rovers there, probably around 50ish.

>the oldest car there was a 1920 Rolls.
>None of the Rovers got an award.

A series III 88 with an engine compartment so clean you could eat off it
got an award.  LROA got an award for best club participation.  We still had
the barbies out and ale flowing after everyone else left.

>The weather held for most of the day some light rain about 2 sent a lot of
>converts running.

The weather was sunny and hot all day.

Say, I don't suppose we were at different British car shows?

;*)

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

From: "Hugh Grierson" <Hugh.Grierson@trimble.co.nz>
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 12:16:26 +1200
Subject: Re: Series III springs

> What is the best way of supporting the axle and springs when dismantling
> and reassembling?

If your axle stands are tall enough to support the chassis with the 
wheels only just touching the ground, then simply leave the wheels 
on.

> What is the best order to do the job in?

Jack up chassis and lower onto axle stands, remove U-bolts, remove 
shackle bolts, drop springs on toes.

Reassembly is the opposite of removal.  Ha!  The new springs will 
probably have more free camber in them, so you wont get the Ubolts 
done up again.  I seem to recall I had to compress the spring with a 
bottle jack.  Actually, that's not a bad way to remove them either: 
support chassis on stands, raise spring bottom plate slightly with
jack, remove U-bolt nuts, then slowly lower the jack. This avoids any
brake hose problems.  But make sure that there's enough downward
travel in your jack, otherwise you'll wish you had a spare jack 
handy.  I think by the time I finished I'd used 4 axle stands and 3 
jacks...
  
> How does this whole
> operation affect the steering.

No effect.

> Do you take the shocks off first?

Not unless you're replacing them.  Just swing the spring bottom 
plate/shock mount out of the way once the Ubolts are undone.

> Can the
> job be done without disconnecting the brakes and transmission?

Yes.  But watch out that you don't lift the chassis too high and
strain the flexi brake hoses.

> The new springs come complete with the bushes and bolts which go through
> the curled ends of the springs - do I need anything else. Should the
> U-bolts be changed?

Depends on their condition, I didn't.  But fit new lock tabs or 
spring washers on the Ubolt nuts.  Maybe some loctite.

See other recent advice on fitting the new spring bushes.
Removal of the shackle bolts can sometimes be difficult.  Before
you try to drive the bolt out remember that one shackle plate is
threaded 
-- 
hugh.grierson@trimble.co.nz

------------------------------

Subject: Re: BRITISH CAR SHOW 
Date: Mon, 09 Sep 1996 19:17:01 -0700
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@ridgecrest.ca.us>

In message <bulk.23800.19960909184922@Land-Rover.Team.Net>you write:

> Weii the show this last Sunday was indeed fun. I think the total mumber of
> British cars that showed up was closer to 500 to 600, and there was a long
> double row of Land Rovers there, probably around 50ish.

Land Rover:  21
        80".....................1  (1952)
        Series II 88"...........2
        Series II 109" 2 door...2  (one is a Dormobile conversion)
        Series IIA 88"..........5
        Series IIA 109" 2 door..1
        Series IIA 109" 5 door..6
        Series III 88"..........3
        110.....................1  (1984)
 
Defender:  5
        '94...2
        '95...0
     '95 SW...5
 
Discovery:  4
        '94...1
        '95...2
        '96...1
 
Range Rover Classic:  9 
        '72...1
        '88...3
        '89...3
        '90...2
 
Range Rover (mk2):  0
 
Total:  41

Ben
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Benjamin Smith----------bens@ridgecrest.ca.us----------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 19:20:50 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: LANDY LINGO

At  8:39 PM 9/9/96 -0700, Adrian Redmond wrote:

>Maybe we should start a "Landy Lexicon" translating some of these LRO
>terms for new (and older) owners - things like "Headlights in the
>Breakfast" Gaiters, ARB locker, Ranchos, Torpedo (Danish for SIII
>firewall), the list is long.

I would like to see the ARB lovker thread placed into the alternate FAQ web
pages.  It was one of the better threads we have had in a long time and
explained a lot about the science of Land Rover ownership and our
understanding of the space time continuim.

Did anyone save that thread?

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Sep 1996 17:01:43 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: Re: Series III springs

Adrian Redmond wrote:

> I'm just about to embark on replacing all four springs on a series III
> 88" - would be glad to hear from anyone else whose done this themselves.

Frame bushes aside swapping new springs in shouldn't be too big a deal.  
A set of wheel chocks helps as does a length of 2*4 or similar. Chock the 
end opposite to the end you are going to work on first. Undo the U bolts 
and just leave the brackets hanging on the shock - no need to remove 
shocks or brake lines. A scissor or bottle jack under the spring will 
help take the weight off the shackle bolt while you remove it. Putting th 
new spring on is the reverse. I've found it helps to jack the new spring 
into position (height) after fastening one end - I prefer to fasten 
the shackle end first - and then use a crow bar or stick of lumber to 
lever the spring towards the chassis mount.

Not too difficult and once started I'm sure you'll find your own way. 

Cheers, Greg  "what do you mean the centre bolt is in upside down?"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Sep 96 02:18:55 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: RE: Green Laning

Gerald, 

Sat 28th is the date for off-road in Moultonbrough NH. I'm going along with a 
few from this neck of the woods. I think Bob V is going, so is Jim Pappas et 
al.

See you on the 28th. 

Mark

Below is what i got last week. 

******************************************************************************
**********

Hi to all!!
Thanks for the great responce to my invite.  More than I thought would answer 
did.  To those of you who wanted to invite some others, it's OK to do so.  
With the respondents and friends the total will be about 15 if all show up.  
This number is about all I can handle for the first time.  It will be tight 
fitting all the trucks into some of the stopping areas, so please keep the 
numbers at the 15 level.
For those who have GPS...The meeting place, Meredith Town Docks, N 43deg 39min 

23.4sec - W 71deg 29min 56.7sec.  MEETING TIME IS 10:00AM 28 Sept.  The trail 
head is 20 mins. down the road.  If you need gas, oil, or food, we can pick up 

on way.  I will be in my yellow D90.
I am sending along a list of those going.  It seems that many are coming from 
SW NH.  It may be easy for some to drive together.  Steve is coming from 
Albany through Keene, so he and Heather should hook up.  I think(not very 
often or much) that it about 1 hr from Keene to Concord.  From Concord to 
Meredith is about 45 min either by I93 to 104 to Meredith or US4 to 106 to 
Meredith.  106 is the nicer road but a little harder to find.

----------
From: 	Gerald
Sent: 	Monday, September 09, 1996 5:42 AM
Subject: 	Re: Green Laning

On Mon, 26 Aug 1996 10:18:27 -0400 (EDT), you wrote:

>Would anyone be interested in some light green laning on Sat. 28, Sept.?  
This 
>would be in Moultonboro, NH.  Meeting abiut 10:00, picnic in the mountains 
>with a view, then to the top of mt Shaw (3000'). No body damage.
Can't recall if I replied, just back from 2 weeks away. Yes, planning
on attending. Maybe more news in later emails fromyou, will wade
through them all.

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 20:48:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Gaiter kit for D90

On Sat, 7 Sep 1996, Allan Smith wrote:
> Hi all -
> The long-awaited replacement for the gaiter kit that didn't fit the D90 has
> arrived. It doesn't fit either. I think this one is for a SII or III - can
> anyone confirm? The kit no. is 276954.

About a year ago, R.Pierce Reid wrote about installing gaiters on a NAS
D90. He used part "RTC 3826." The pieces required some "cutting, drilling
and grinding" but he was able to make what sounded like good gaiters out
of them. I have bought the same gaiter kit, but haven't yet installed it -
it is on my list of "fall projects"........
Best wishes,
David Rosenbaum
'94 NAS D90 with bare swivel balls

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Sep 1996 23:49:27 -0400
From: myk <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: Series III springs

At 12:21 AM 9/10/96 -0700, you wrote:
>I'm just about to embark on replacing all four springs on a series III
>88" - would be glad to hear from anyone else whose done this themselves.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 24 lines)]
>-- 
>adrian redmond

Here is what I did right or wrong.
I used two jacks and two jack stands.  
I left in place all tires and shocks. ( do 'em later) also serves as a sort
of protection if something happens (tires).
I also used one very large pry-bar.

Step 1
Jacked up the axle just a bit and secured with a jack stand. tire still
pretty much on the floor. Also had a jack on the bumper, snug but not lifting.

Step 2
I loosened/removed the U-bolts.

Step 3
Then removed the non-shackle end of the spring so as not to be pounding on a
possibly tight bolt when the spring falls.
 
Step 4 Then remove the shackle end.

ITS OFF.

Now Putting a new one on.  ( get a good nights sleep and maybe a
friend/priest or someone who can speak with the All Mighty with respect. )

Step one
I secured the shackle end first.

Step two ( Make VERY sure the Rover is very stable during this stage )
Then the U-bolts loosely for now.
Getting the hole to line up with the pin isn't too hard.  I used the other
jack for the spring position.  Moving the axle up/down and the spring
up/down till they lined up.
When they line up tighten the U-bolts snugly. Don't torque them down yet.

Step three
You MAY be able to remove the jack/jack-stand from the axle as the spring
will now be rubbing against the frame.
I still had the jack on the bumper for take some weight off the spring.
Then I used the pry-bar to line up the holes and a friend to shove the bolt in.
with all of the Rovers weight on the springs loosen the U-bolts a bit to
relieve any stress they may be under.  Then torque them down ( or up as the
case may be ) If you forget this to do this you can end up bending the heck
out of the U-bolts. 

I have used this methods on the 7 of 8 springs I have changed or assisted in
changing.

Hope this helps.
Mike Johnson

74 SIII 88 (Chester)  175k daily driver
73 SIII 88 (Jezabel)  everyone's gettin a piece

http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Sep 1996 23:52:57 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: BRITISH CAR SHOW

TeriAnn sez...

>A series III 88 with an engine compartment so clean you could eat off it
>got an award.  LROA got an award for best club participation.  We still had
>the barbies out and ale flowing after everyone else left.
-

Sounds like everyone had a good time, but aren't you a bit too old to be
playing with barbies??

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

From: Andy Purser <apurs@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: UNSUBSCRIBE
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 05:55:55 +0000

UNSUBSCRIBE

Please UNSUBSCRIBE me from the LRO net. This is the third request. If my
other request have been in the wrong format, someone please let me know.
Thanks
Andy

------------------------------

From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de
Subject: Re: LANDY LINGO
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 08:17:32 +0200 (METDST)

Hi Adrian,
| Maybe we should start a "Landy Lexicon" translating some of these LRO
| terms for new (and older) owners - things like "Headlights in the
| Breakfast" Gaiters, ARB locker, Ranchos, Torpedo (Danish for SIII
| firewall), the list is long.
If a English German LR dictionary is of some help for you try Peter 
Kutscheras website at http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter/LR .
Perhaps you could try to extend it to English German Danish. 
Helped me a lot to get out some of these technical terms. Sadly you
don't learn how to repair a Land Rover in English at school.

Cheers,
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                 tbr1102@sunmail.lrz-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de
Subject: Re: Mercedes Benz Diesel Engine
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 08:45:53 +0200 (METDST)

Hi David 

| I am thinking about swaping the V8-engine of my SIII 109 Station with a
| Mercedes Benz 300 D Diesel engine. A Guy in my town offers cits to fix
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
| DM (450-500 $, I think). What do you think about this? Is it fair? What
| are your experiences with non-rover engines?

I had a guy just round the corner who had a SIIA 88 with a SIII gearbox and
a MB 300 D engine. He said he was very satisfied with it. He told me
that the MB engine revs a bit faster than the old 2.3 Rover engine, what
improves the top speed a bit. Later I was told that he was selling the Rover
and had some problems to get it off because of the engine conversion.
Sorry I can't tell you more since I never drove this rig nor even saw it
running.
I can get you the telephon number if you'd like to phone him.

Cheers,
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                 tbr1102@sunmail.lrz-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 07:59:41 +0000
Subject: 3 or 5 bearing engine?

Lucas had an engine transplant before he adpoted me.

The serial number is 25306936J - is this a 3 or 5 bearing engine?

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

However strong my opinions are, they are mine and no-one elses.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 09:42:28 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re:senseless legislation (was EU)

>Yeh aint it. :-(  as Mike R might say no room for common sense.
>He in good old South OZ the new firearms laws came in yesterday.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>rifles/shotguns.  Now the government have given us a 3 month amnesty to
>return them, but were swamped on the first day and cant understand why.
Common sense? No-one expects politicians to know what it *means*,let
alone to possess any.Here's one from the UK Govt document on Greenlanes:
"Byways would continue to carry vehicular rights,but except for vehicles
using byways in order to gain access to premises and equipment,THOSE
RIGHTS WOULD NOT BE EXERCISABLE.(My capitals)
How the hell can you call something you cant do,a right?

Mike Rooth

BTW Darryl,I hope the wimpish bastards *paid* you the money you spent
on that gun.

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: re: gauges
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 96 10:30:47 BST

> Hi Philippe,
> Your problem concerning the gauges not working IS electrical !
> It has nothing to do with capillary gauges otherwise  the fuel gauge was

Assuming someone hasn't done a heath-robinson oil gauge replacement
(like I'm planning), then he must have capillary gauges. These aren't
electrical.
They don't make an electric oil temp. gauge.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

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