[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | Paul Hanson ["HANSONPA@" | 13 | notched frame ? |
2 | David Place [dplace@SIRN | 31 | tyre inflating |
3 | lopezba@atnet.at | 28 | Re: S I Air Cleaners |
4 | Irv Berteig [berteig@acc | 23 | Brake Problems |
5 | ChrisF6724@aol.com | 41 | RE: Leaf to Coil Springs |
6 | "Trevor Talbot" [fc101@m | 26 | Gaiter Kit |
7 | Jeff & Laura Kessler [lm | 23 | Parking brake |
8 | Daryl Webb [dwebb@waite. | 33 | Re: Parking brake |
9 | Andrew Howton [andrew_ho | 24 | 109 frames & 2.25L 5main blocks for sale |
10 | "Leon H. Akong" [akongj@ | 22 | [not specified] |
11 | David Place [dplace@SIRN | 9 | Re: Brake Problems |
12 | David Place [dplace@SIRN | 17 | RE: Leaf to Coil Springs |
13 | karlsson@edgenet.net (ka | 20 | Re: Parking brake |
14 | Jeremy J Bartlett [Bartl | 22 | CB was Re: Brake Problems |
15 | Andy Purser [apurs@world | 7 | unsubscribe |
16 | Andy Purser [apurs@world | 15 | Re: Series III |
17 | Irv Berteig [berteig@acc | 25 | Brake Problems HELP!!!! |
18 | "T.F. Mills" [tomills@du | 24 | LR toys for sale |
19 | David Bothe [bothe@ns.it | 17 | Mercedes Benz Diesel Engine |
20 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 24 | Re: Top Gear and Euro Legislation |
21 | philippe.carchon@rug.ac. | 23 | gauges |
22 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 26 | Re: gauges |
23 | "Jean Risse" [jris@oce.n | 34 | How to exceed roof load capacity? |
24 | Inkornoink@aol.com | 17 | Re: BRITISH CAR SHOW |
25 | Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-m | 35 | Re: How to exceed roof load capacity? |
26 | g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald) | 19 | Re: Green Laning |
27 | g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald) | 18 | Re: French Members |
28 | "Peter & Julie Rosvall" | 14 | Re: 109 frames & 2.25L 5main blocks for sale |
Date: Sun, 08 Sep 1996 08:15:06 -0500 From: Paul Hanson <"HANSONPA@"@mail.milwaukee.k12.wi.us> Subject: notched frame ? I am considering purchasing a D-90 "clone" apparently built by Avon in UK. It has a 3.5v-8 with side SUs and complicated exhaust sys. The touble is with a rather severe engine vibration which worsens with rpm. the owner tells me the problem is in the motor mounts [I doubt this] and that the exhaust sys. needs a "flex" pipe. HELP! If you've any advice or info on this please let me know. I am extremely cautious being a past vic. of the infamous "RoverWorks". Paul Hanson ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 1996 09:19:04 -0500 (CDT) From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca> Subject: tyre inflating For those who don't want to bother with a compressor under the hood, you can get a rig that screws into a spark plug hole and the engine compression inflates the tires. J.C. Whitney has them in their catalogue and I have found at least two in the past 5 years at local garage sales. They come with a sparkplug adapter for various size plug holes and the better ones have a dial indicator to indicate pressure. The hose is long enough to put air in any tyre without taking it off. The last one I had used a very nice cloth covered rubber hose and had good quality fittings. It sure beats pumping by hand and it doesn't require taking up engine bay space etc. Most engines will pump well over what any tyre we are likely to use will need. I found a company in Vancouver that sells rear 88 springs for $199 each Canadian. That sounds pretty good to me. The phone number is 604-925-1514. I think that used to be Octopus Motors but the name on the note they sent me is Concise Exportise Limited at 3396 Marine Drive. The guy that signed the not is Ray or Roy so maybe aske for him and he will know what you are talking about. I got my Mersyside springs all in Friday and with the new bushes etc. it runs very nicely. I don't think you need coils if you have good leafs. By the way, I finally had to take the bench vice to the bush on one side to press it home. The rod and nut system just wouldn't budge it the last 1/2 inch. It does work, but it takes a good hard push to do it. I also had my son run a tap through the shackles at his machine shop because the threads just don't let the bolt turn easily if you don't. Save yourself lost of hassle and order new shakle plates when you order your springs, you will be glad you did and they are not expensive. Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 1996 18:54:55 +0200 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: Re: S I Air Cleaners hilltop <hilltop@advantage.ca> wrote: :A funny thing happened to me on my way to the tune-up... : My Series I 86" with a 2 litre petrol engine has a paper element air :cleaner. It is sitting on a Solex carburator. The air cleaner says "AC :made in England" as do all the oil fittings, filters, etc. and the carb :has a very stock looking adapter to make it fit. : My LR parts store/garage says he's never herd of any air cleaner but :the oil bath type. So let's have your vote. Has anyone out there seen a :factory, paper element air cleaner on a 2 litre? :NOTE; if this is a REALLY rare option I'll sell it for the BIG BUCKS :-) Your garage person is right, I believe. The only air cleaners on S I's were oil bath types, either with a pre-cleaner (on 1,6 l or siamese-bore 2 l engines) or without (on spread-bore 2 l engines). These air cleaners were made by AC, like yours. Hope you are happy with it Peter Hirsch SI 107in S/W Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1) ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 08 Sep 1996 10:30:51 -0700 From: Irv Berteig <berteig@accessone.com> Subject: Brake Problems One trick that I have not seen mentioned in this thread on bleeding brakes on 109's is to elevate the front wheels as much as possible due to the location of the bleed nipples and/or pipe routing. Seems that some air remains trapped and rejoins in the night . . . or something like that. Anyway, it worked for me after a month of frustration and alot of brake fluid pumpted through the system. Good luck Irv _________ |----+----| berteig@accessone.com |___=3D=3D=3D___| |=95=95|O O|=95=95| '67 SIIA 109SW - 2.6L |__|___|__| || || I became an automechanic at age 50 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ upon buying a Land Rover. ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ChrisF6724@aol.com Date: Sun, 8 Sep 1996 14:52:54 -0400 Subject: RE: Leaf to Coil Springs Manny, I assume that you want to convert to coils because of the rough ride your Series vehicle is giving you. A large advantage of converting to coils is that most likely you will have to replace the frame (great if it's already in poor condition), not to mention a superior suspension system. However, if your frame is in good condition, and your budget is small, I would check into having your leaf springs engineered by a good spring shop. Chances are right now, that your springs have rust on them and don't slip to well. A.P. (Sandy) Grice mentioned "plastic sheets" to fit in between springs. Actually, most of these are teflon sheets that don't need lubrication, and have a low friction coefficient (they slip much better). I believe that Old Man Emu now uses this kind of sheet in their spring kits. A good spring shop could engineer your springs for a better ride. They can usually put together something using OEM parts and add or remove springs to change the ride characteristics. Something else that helps is to remove the spring alignment rings (the bent pieces around the springs to keep them in place) and switch to a aftermarket kind that don't bind the springs together. The style used on the Series vehicles are the type that force the springs to "mash" the stack together, when what your actually after is just to keep them from shifting out of the stack. "Mashing" the springs means they won't slip as easily; if they slip easily, then your ride will greatly improve. Another thing that can improve ride is to put on something like the Rancho RS9000 adjustable shock. You can change the "stiffness" of the shock by turning a switch. I've heard great things about these shocks, but don't know if they'll have one to work with your Rover... The easiest, cheapest way of improving your ride would be to make sure that all your suspension components are in pristine condition and working properly.... I'd suggest that you pull the spring stacks apart yourself, clean them up and lubricate (I prefer graphite dust cause it doesn't attract dirt, mix with alcohol to work into the cracks). Also replace the spring bushings with OEM rubber and clean the shackles really well as well as the shock mounts. It can make a world of difference in the ride and save you tons of cash... Chris Fisher '73 Land Rover Series III hybrid ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 96 19:55:45 UT From: "Trevor Talbot" <fc101@msn.com> Subject: Gaiter Kit Adrian Redman asked . Pardon my ignorance but what is a 'Gaiter Kit' when its at home. Adrian. The Gaiter kit consists of 2 leather gaiters with laces and you lace one round each ankle ,with your trousers tucked in, This stops the water dripping into your shoes thus keeping your socks dry when driving a Land Rover in the rain, especially when you go round a corner. A lot of LR drivers have been using the Gaiters Kits to keep their 'balls' dry and free from rust, I can only say they must be bloody uncomfortable to drive in .Ive been driving LR's for years and my balls aren't rusty and I check them every morning, I prefer to keep my feet dry.You can buy Nylon Gaiter kits from sports equiptment shops, a lot of walkers use them in the hills and mountains ,these are more flexible than the leather ones Hope this is of some help. Cheers Trevor. 101 FWD CONTROL GS 88 SWB STN WAGGON SER 1 SWB SOFT TOP ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 1996 17:51:39 -0500 (EST) From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com> Subject: Parking brake Sorry about cross posting, but I bet the parking brake is very similar on all LRs and most coil sprung owners probably have not been into it. I am stuck in my attempt to investigate the reason my parking brake fails to release completely. I believe the release springs are responsible. My problem are the 2 No. 5? phillips head screws that hold the drum on. They will not move and are starting to round off. Any recommendations on removing the screws? I am thinking about getting an impact screwdriver. If the head is drilled off, is there enough left to remove with visegrips? Thanks. Jeff Kessler 1988 Range Rover Newport NH USA 603-863-7883 lmkessler@srnet.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au> Subject: Re: Parking brake Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 08:20:28 +0930 (CST) Jeff & Laura Kessler writes: > I am stuck in my attempt to investigate the reason my parking brake fails to > release completely. I believe the release springs are responsible. > My problem are the 2 No. 5? phillips head screws that hold the drum on. > They will not move and are starting to round off. These are a Posidrive screw not a phillips head, that is why they are now rounding off :-(. Appart from suggesting the correct bit and an Impact driver I cant think of much else to get them off, unless its reached the cold chisel stage.... Once you get the drum off make sure that the top of the shoes rests happily on the top post. On mine the cable had been over adjusted such that the shoes could not return, and hence were in a "free floating" mode such that they just bounced around inside the drum making contact when ever they "felt" like it. Backing the cable off until the shoes rested properly and re-adjusting the shoes worked wonders (ie the brake now works both forwards and reverse, cf reverse only before) best of luck -- Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 1996 16:34:12 -0700 (PDT) From: Andrew Howton <andrew_howton@bc.sympatico.ca> Subject: 109 frames & 2.25L 5main blocks for sale Ok I addmit it, I've got too much Rover junk laying around here. Two of the bigest lumps to work around are a pair of 109 frames. My dad wants them out of the yard so there going cheap. Hows 500 CND (about 375 US) for a 1982 civi frame in exelent condition sound? Not what you want? How about a 70s military frame that has been galvanized for 750 CND (about 563 US)? I need to move these things so make an offer. The frames are in Calgary Alberta so you can figure out the shipping to were ever you may be. We also have two 2.25L 5main br blocks to flog (used and stripped) (come with cranks, cams, etc...). I think 500 CND each is a good price but as with the frames we'd like them moved out so offer away. Thanks for your time. Andrew Howton (604) 425-0598 109 2door 110 2door (in parts still) ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 8 Sep 96 19:52:18 -0400 Subject: Re: Wading and Winching From: "Leon H. Akong" <akongj@tstt.net.tt> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable >A)-I have taken Hercules, my 1968 IIA which I have owned from new, off >roading in the newly formed Trinidad & Tobago Off Road Club. Peter I'm interested in the club. This is the first time I'm hearing of it. Could you e-mail me the details. We can also get together and look at your problem. Jr (Series III 88" V8) akongj@tstt.net.tt 809 642 8215 located in http://www.city.net/countries/trinidad_and_tobago/ --------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 1996 18:57:43 -0500 (CDT) From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca> Subject: Re: Brake Problems I think the trick of raising the vehicle front end will only work on the vehicles using CB type brake masters. CB stands for centre ball and the ball has to be at the back of the master or it won't bleed, hence the raise the vehicle trick to get it there. Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 1996 19:01:47 -0500 (CDT) From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca> Subject: RE: Leaf to Coil Springs In the same vein of springs that won't slip hence a hard ride, the ones I just installed have a rubber consistency paint on them that seems to seal the slots so that dirt wont get in but at the same time allows sliding of the spring elements. I have noticed a marked ride imporvement and if you stand on the bumper, you actually can bounce the Land Rover up and down. This is the first new set of springs I have ever installed so it is a treat after 8 bricks to actually ride in comfort. One problem I am having and maybe my warning will help someone else, I haven't been able to find new rubber replacment eyes for the shocks in Manitoba. I haven't tried a real chassis shop yet, but Canadian Tire etc. just laughed when I showed them what I wanted. If the rubbers don't hold the shock tightly, you may as well run without shocks! Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 08 Sep 1996 21:41:14 -0700 From: karlsson@edgenet.net (karlsson) Subject: Re: Parking brake Jeff & Laura Kessler wrote: > Sorry about cross posting, but I bet the parking brake is very similar on > all LRs and most coil sprung owners probably have not been into it. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)] > 1988 Range Rover > Newport NH USA 603-863-7883 lmkessler@srnet.com I have never had any success with impact screwdrivers. After struggling unsuccessfully trying to remove brake drum screws with the impact tool, I tried hammer and chisel. Worked like magic! If you are careful, you can remove these screws with little or no damage. Don't know how it would work in your case. John Karlsson Hope Valley, RI ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 08 Sep 1996 18:06:00 -0700 From: Jeremy J Bartlett <Bartlett@slip.net> Subject: CB was Re: Brake Problems David Place wrote: > I think the trick of raising the vehicle front end will only work on the > vehicles using CB type brake masters. CB stands for centre ball and the > ball has to be at the back of the master or it won't bleed, hence the > raise the vehicle trick to get it there. Dave VE4PN At the risk of sounding like I know what I'm talking about :) , CB stands for Compression Barrel - there's no ball in it. (CV stands for Center Valve). I believe that the act of raising the vehicle front is to account for the tilt of the master cylinder on the brake pedal mount. I think the tilt leads to trapping of air in the rear of the CB unit. I'm not sure why this isn't also the case for the CV cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Andy Purser <apurs@worldnet.att.net> Subject: unsubscribe Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 03:52:44 +0000 unsubscribe ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Andy Purser <apurs@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: Series III Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 03:58:27 +0000 Hello, Thanks to all those who have answered my questions and swapped ideas and parts around the last year or so, but I must say goodbye. I finally sent my '73 Series III to a new home this past Sat. I'm going to start some new vehicular projects this fall to include a 1957 model CJ-6 JEEP (like a CJ-5 but 20" longer) of which only 1236 were made in that year. I will miss the Landy but certainly not the high part prices or the attitudes of some of the parts vendors. Well, everyone take care and happy rovering. Andy ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 08 Sep 1996 21:44:13 -0700 From: Irv Berteig <berteig@accessone.com> Subject: Brake Problems HELP!!!! Bruce raised the last question on this thread... One trick that I have not seen mentioned in this thread on bleeding brakes on 109's is to elevate the front wheels as much as possible due to the location of the bleed nipples and/or pipe routing. Seems that some air remains trapped and rejoins in the night . . . or something like that. Anyway, it worked for me after a month of frustration and alot of brake fluid pumpted through the system. Good luck Irv _________ |----+----| berteig@accessone.com |___=3D=3D=3D___| |=95=95|O O|=95=95| '67 SIIA 109SW - 2.6L |__|___|__| || || I became an automechanic at age 50 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ upon buying a Land Rover. ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu> Subject: LR toys for sale Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 01:27:54 -0600 (MDT) A while ago, Dixon posted a message about Robin Craig's large toy and model collection going up for sale as a single unit. He was unable to find a buyer, and is now prepared to sell individual pieces. Contact Robin and he will send you a list of pieces: Robin Craig 2821 H Baycrest Drive Ottawa, Ontario K1V 7P6 613-738-7880 (he no longer has an email address) ... and don't contact me about this matter: this is all I know. T. F. Mills tomills@du.edu University of Denver Library http://www.du.edu/~tomills Denver CO 80208 USA ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 09:35:48 +0100 (WET DST) From: David Bothe <bothe@ns.itz-koeln.de> Subject: Mercedes Benz Diesel Engine Hi! I am thinking about swaping the V8-engine of my SIII 109 Station with a Mercedes Benz 300 D Diesel engine. A Guy in my town offers cits to fix non-rover machines to Landys. The cits consist of a special disc, to fix the engine to the gearbox and some transmission parts. He sells it for 700 DM (450-500 $, I think). What do you think about this? Is it fair? What are your experiences with non-rover engines? Thanx, David ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Top Gear and Euro Legislation Date: Mon, 9 Sep 96 8:45:05 BST > The subject of the Top Gear report is of tremendous significance to all > freedom loving individuals. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > heads which shear off when the correct torque is reached. Why? To stop > individuals taking them apart and changing them - or Yes, I was talking to a mate of mine at the weekend, in Cambridge, who is a recent bike convert. Surprised Top Gear didn't mention the bike proposals. > Write to your MP and Euro MP now, before the young graduates who are > attempting to justify their existence in Brussels actually sneak this > legislation through. <cough> I'm not in Brussels, but there's nothing wrong with the majority of graduates... :-) Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR, and 2 recent degrees) ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: philippe.carchon@rug.ac.be Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 10:01:04 +0200 Subject: gauges Hi, maybe a stupid question: yesterday the fuel gauge, water temperature gauge and oil temperature gauge (ex-mil.) didn't move. Is this because of a bad fuse or something else ? If it is where can this fuse be located (lightweight)? I've checked the ones on the steering wheel but they look fine. Philippe Carchon '81 lightweight Ghent, Belgium Marnix Vangheluwe Laboratory for Biological Research in Aquatic Pollution J. Plateaustraat 22 University Ghent 9000 Gent, Belgium T: 32 9 264 37 66 F: 32 9 264 41 99 E mail: marnix.vangheluwe@rug.ac.be ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: gauges Date: Mon, 9 Sep 96 9:29:43 BST > Hi, > maybe a stupid question: yesterday the fuel gauge, water temperature gauge > and oil temperature gauge (ex-mil.) didn't move. Is this because of a bad > fuse or something else ? If it is where can this fuse be located > (lightweight)? I've checked the ones on the steering wheel but they look fine. 24V? the temp. gauge and the oil gauge are both capillary devices. There is no such thing as an electric oil gauge (apparently). This appears to rule out your fuse problem. It would be hard to explain all three gauges not working, unless 2 capillaries came un-done, and a wire. Its possible that you're now running a 12V temp gauge, in which case you only need to break 2 things. I'm currently in the process of getting my temp. gauges working. I'm replacing the capillary gauges with civvie. 12V items (using a water gauge for the oil gauge,etc) and adding a 12V regulator. Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Jean Risse" <jris@oce.nl> Subject: How to exceed roof load capacity? Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 10:29:01 +0100 Hi there, I am planning on mounting a roof rack plus sleeping unit on my LR which weighs about 160 kilo. The load is evenly spread on the D-110 ('94) roof and there are 12 supporting beams of 10 centimeters wide. Also there will be two people sleeping up there, but then the car will not be in motion (I hope ;-)) I know that LR states that 75 kilo should not be exceeded, but I've seen roof loads far heavier than that, while the shape of the car still reminded me of a LR. Does anyone have experience with 'heavy' loads on D-110? I am specially looking for information on things, like the gutter, (not) breaking off. Please tell me about it. I know I can install chassis mounts, but I don't want to put on extra weight unnecessary. Thanks, Jean Risse D110/94 ___________________ This note does not necessarily represent the position of Oce- Nederland B.V. Therefore no liability or responsibility for what- ever will be accepted. ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Inkornoink@aol.com Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 05:01:27 -0400 Subject: Re: BRITISH CAR SHOW greg-- enjoyed meeting you yesterday...hope that your family were able to enjoy a bit of the show (in between the raindrops!) hank gregory 1990 RRc (moby) 1966 109sw (ted) PS -- your defender is incredible looking --- where did you get the black/grey colored seat covers? ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de Subject: Re: How to exceed roof load capacity? Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 11:02:24 +0200 (METDST) Hi Jean, | I know that LR states that 75 kilo should not be exceeded, but I've seen OUPS! Are you sure? | roof loads far heavier than that, while the shape of the car still reminded | me of a LR. | Does anyone have experience with 'heavy' loads on D-110? I am specially | looking for information on things, like the gutter, (not) breaking off. I occasionaly transported up to about 300kg of wood (how are this long rectangular cut pieces used for bilding house roofs called ?) on 4 Thule roof bars. I had to drive carefully and slow, but the hardtop still looks as before. I think 160kg is still ok if you don't travel on very rough roads. The additional load when you sleep up there won't harm, since this is a more or less static force, while the dynamic forces from the Rover jumping over bumps in the road are much greater. Be aware that increasing the roofload will increase the risk of a roll over. Hope this helps Franz --------------------------------------------------------------- Franz Parzefall tbr1102@sunmail.lrz-muenchen.de _______ [____|\_\== [_-__|__|_-] Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..- ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald) Subject: Re: Green Laning Date: Mon, 09 Sep 1996 09:42:05 GMT On Mon, 26 Aug 1996 10:18:27 -0400 (EDT), you wrote: >Would anyone be interested in some light green laning on Sat. 28, Sept.? This >would be in Moultonboro, NH. Meeting abiut 10:00, picnic in the mountains >with a view, then to the top of mt Shaw (3000'). No body damage. Can't recall if I replied, just back from 2 weeks away. Yes, planning on attending. Maybe more news in later emails fromyou, will wade through them all. -- Gerald g@ix.netcom.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald) Subject: Re: French Members Date: Mon, 09 Sep 1996 10:30:57 GMT On Wed, 28 Aug 1996 14:51:24 +0200, you wrote: >Like some of us, I don't know where are the french >rovers, probably not over the Internet, but here I >am. I picked up a French 4WD magazine which included a list of dealers in France. There seem to me to be very few LR dealers in France. -- Gerald g@ix.netcom.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter & Julie Rosvall" <rosvall@mis.ca> Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 07:30:27 +0000 Subject: Re: 109 frames & 2.25L 5main blocks for sale military frame that has been galvanized for 750 CND (about 563 US)? I need to move these things so make an offer. I might be interested in this if shipping was halfway reasonable....... Peter Rosvall rosvall@mi.net ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST Input: messages 28 lines 1113 [forwarded 63 whitespace 240] Output: lines 822 [content 458 forwarded 45 (cut 18) whitespace 230] Land Rover Owner Subscription Information: * All new subscription requests are via the digest. * In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved (by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net Useful commands for this are 'index lro-digest' which returns a list of files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc. World Wide Web Sites start at http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/pages.html (shadow) http://www.Senie.com/billc/lr/pages.html If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net -B[ First Message | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960909 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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