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msgSender linesSubject
1 Paul Hanson ["HANSONPA@"13notched frame ?
2 David Place [dplace@SIRN31tyre inflating
3 lopezba@atnet.at 28Re: S I Air Cleaners
4 Irv Berteig [berteig@acc23Brake Problems
5 ChrisF6724@aol.com 41RE: Leaf to Coil Springs
6 "Trevor Talbot" [fc101@m26Gaiter Kit
7 Jeff & Laura Kessler [lm23Parking brake
8 Daryl Webb [dwebb@waite.33Re: Parking brake
9 Andrew Howton [andrew_ho24109 frames & 2.25L 5main blocks for sale
10 "Leon H. Akong" [akongj@22[not specified]
11 David Place [dplace@SIRN9Re: Brake Problems
12 David Place [dplace@SIRN17RE: Leaf to Coil Springs
13 karlsson@edgenet.net (ka20Re: Parking brake
14 Jeremy J Bartlett [Bartl22CB was Re: Brake Problems
15 Andy Purser [apurs@world7unsubscribe
16 Andy Purser [apurs@world15Re: Series III
17 Irv Berteig [berteig@acc25Brake Problems HELP!!!!
18 "T.F. Mills" [tomills@du24LR toys for sale
19 David Bothe [bothe@ns.it17Mercedes Benz Diesel Engine
20 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u24Re: Top Gear and Euro Legislation
21 philippe.carchon@rug.ac.23gauges
22 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u26Re: gauges
23 "Jean Risse" [jris@oce.n34How to exceed roof load capacity?
24 Inkornoink@aol.com 17Re: BRITISH CAR SHOW
25 Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-m35Re: How to exceed roof load capacity?
26 g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald)19Re: Green Laning
27 g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald)18Re: French Members
28 "Peter & Julie Rosvall" 14Re: 109 frames & 2.25L 5main blocks for sale


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Date: Sun, 08 Sep 1996 08:15:06 -0500
From: Paul Hanson <"HANSONPA@"@mail.milwaukee.k12.wi.us>
Subject: notched frame ?

I am considering purchasing a D-90 "clone" apparently built by Avon in 
UK.  It has a 3.5v-8 with side SUs and complicated exhaust sys.  The 
touble is with a rather severe engine vibration which worsens with rpm. 
the owner tells me the problem is in the motor mounts [I doubt this] and 
that the exhaust sys. needs a "flex" pipe.  HELP!  If you've any advice 
or info on this please let me know.  I am extremely cautious being a 
past vic. of the infamous "RoverWorks". 
	Paul Hanson

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Date: Sun, 8 Sep 1996 09:19:04 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca>
Subject: tyre inflating

For those who don't want to bother with a compressor under the hood, you 
can get a rig that screws into a spark plug hole and the engine 
compression inflates the tires.  J.C. Whitney has them in their catalogue 
and I have found at least two in the past 5 years at local garage sales.  
They come with a sparkplug adapter for various size plug holes and the 
better ones have a dial indicator to indicate pressure.  The hose is long 
enough to put air in any tyre without taking it off.  The last one I had 
used a very nice cloth covered rubber hose and had good quality 
fittings.  It sure beats pumping by hand and it doesn't require taking up 
engine bay space etc.  Most engines will pump well over what any tyre we 
are likely to use will need. 
I found a company in Vancouver that sells rear 88 springs for $199 each 
Canadian.  That sounds pretty good to me.  The phone number is 
604-925-1514.  I think that used to be Octopus Motors but the name on the 
note they sent me is Concise Exportise Limited at 3396 Marine Drive.  The 
guy that signed the not is Ray or Roy so maybe aske for him and he will 
know what you are talking about.  I got my Mersyside springs all in 
Friday and with the new bushes etc. it runs very nicely.  I don't think 
you need coils if you have good leafs.  By the way, I finally had to take 
the bench vice to the bush on one side to press it home.  The rod and nut 
system just wouldn't budge it the last 1/2 inch.  It does work, but it 
takes a good hard push to do it.  I also had my son run a tap through the 
shackles at his machine shop because the threads just don't let the bolt 
turn easily if you don't.  Save yourself lost of hassle and order new 
shakle plates when you order your springs, you will be glad you did and 
they are not expensive.  Dave VE4PN

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Date: Sun, 8 Sep 1996 18:54:55 +0200
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: S I Air Cleaners

hilltop <hilltop@advantage.ca> wrote:

:A funny thing happened to me on my way to the tune-up...

: My Series I 86" with a 2 litre petrol engine has a paper element air 
:cleaner. It is sitting on a Solex carburator. The air cleaner says "AC 
:made in England" as do all the oil fittings, filters, etc. and the carb 
:has a very stock looking adapter to make it fit.
: My LR parts store/garage says he's never herd of any air cleaner but 
:the oil bath type. So let's have your vote. Has anyone out there seen a 
:factory, paper element air cleaner on a 2 litre?

:NOTE; if this is a REALLY rare option I'll sell it for the BIG BUCKS :-)

Your garage person is right, I believe. The only air cleaners on S I's were 
oil bath types, either with a pre-cleaner (on 1,6 l or siamese-bore 2 l 
engines) or without (on spread-bore 2 l engines). These air cleaners were 
made by AC, like yours.

Hope you are happy with it
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

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Date: Sun, 08 Sep 1996 10:30:51 -0700
From: Irv Berteig <berteig@accessone.com>
Subject: Brake Problems

One trick that I have not seen mentioned in this thread on bleeding brakes
on 109's is to elevate the front wheels as much as possible due to the
location of the bleed nipples and/or pipe routing.  Seems that some air
remains trapped and rejoins in the night . . . or something like that.
Anyway, it worked for me after a month of frustration and alot of brake
fluid pumpted through the system.

Good luck

Irv

     _________
    |----+----|         berteig@accessone.com
    |___=3D=3D=3D___|          
    |=95=95|O O|=95=95|         '67 SIIA 109SW - 2.6L
    |__|___|__|       
     ||     ||      I became an automechanic at age 50 
  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^      upon buying a Land Rover.

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From: ChrisF6724@aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 1996 14:52:54 -0400
Subject: RE: Leaf to Coil Springs

Manny,
I assume that you want to convert to coils because of the rough ride your
Series vehicle is giving you.  A large advantage of converting to coils is
that most likely you will have to replace the frame (great if it's already in
poor condition), not to mention a superior suspension system.  However, if
your frame is in good condition, and your budget is small, I would check into
having your leaf springs engineered by a good spring shop.  Chances are right
now, that your springs have rust on them and don't slip to well.  A.P.
(Sandy) Grice mentioned  "plastic sheets" to fit in between springs.
 Actually, most of these are teflon sheets that don't need lubrication, and
have a low friction coefficient (they slip much better).  I believe that Old
Man Emu now uses this kind of sheet in their spring kits.  A good spring shop
could engineer your springs for a better ride.  They can usually put together
something using OEM parts and add or remove springs to change the ride
characteristics.  Something else that helps is to remove the spring alignment
rings (the bent pieces around the springs to keep them in place) and switch
to a aftermarket kind that don't bind the springs together.  The style used
on the Series vehicles are the type that force the springs to "mash" the
stack together, when what your actually after is just to keep them from
shifting out of the stack.  "Mashing" the springs means they won't slip as
easily;  if they slip easily, then your ride will greatly improve.  Another
thing that can improve ride is to put on something like the Rancho RS9000
adjustable shock.  You can change the "stiffness" of the shock by turning a
switch.  I've heard great things about these shocks, but don't know if
they'll have one to work with your Rover...  The easiest, cheapest way of
improving your ride would be to make sure that all your suspension components
are in pristine condition and working properly....  I'd suggest that you pull
the spring stacks apart yourself, clean them up and lubricate (I prefer
graphite dust cause it doesn't attract dirt, mix with alcohol to work into
the cracks).  Also replace the spring bushings with OEM rubber and clean the
shackles really well as well as the shock mounts.  It can make a world of
difference in the ride and save you tons of cash...

Chris Fisher
'73 Land Rover Series III hybrid 

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Date: Sun, 8 Sep 96 19:55:45 UT
From: "Trevor Talbot" <fc101@msn.com>
Subject: Gaiter Kit

Adrian Redman asked . Pardon my ignorance but what is a 'Gaiter Kit' when its 
at home.

 Adrian.
          The Gaiter kit consists of 2 leather gaiters with laces and you lace 
one round each ankle ,with your trousers tucked in, This stops the water 
dripping into your shoes thus keeping your socks dry when driving a Land Rover 
in the rain, especially when you go round a corner. A lot of LR  drivers have 
been using the Gaiters Kits to keep their 'balls' dry and free from rust, I 
can only say they must be bloody uncomfortable to drive in .Ive been driving 
LR's for years and my balls aren't rusty and I check them every morning, I 
prefer to keep my feet dry.You can buy Nylon Gaiter kits from sports 
equiptment shops, a lot of walkers use them in the hills and mountains ,these 
are more flexible than the leather ones 
  Hope this is of some help.
  Cheers  
  Trevor.
               101 FWD CONTROL  GS
                88 SWB STN WAGGON 
                SER 1 SWB SOFT TOP
  

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Date: Sun, 8 Sep 1996 17:51:39 -0500 (EST)
From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com>
Subject: Parking brake

Sorry about cross posting, but I bet the parking brake is very similar on
all LRs and most coil sprung owners probably have not been into it.

I am stuck in my attempt to investigate the reason my parking brake fails to
release completely.  I believe the release springs are responsible.

My problem are the 2 No. 5? phillips head screws that hold the drum on.
They will not move and are starting to round off.

Any recommendations on removing the screws?  I am thinking about getting an
impact screwdriver.  If the head is drilled off, is there enough left to
remove with visegrips?

Thanks.

Jeff Kessler
1988 Range Rover
Newport NH USA   603-863-7883   lmkessler@srnet.com

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From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Parking brake
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 08:20:28 +0930 (CST)

Jeff & Laura Kessler writes:

> I am stuck in my attempt to investigate the reason my parking brake fails to
> release completely.  I believe the release springs are responsible.
> My problem are the 2 No. 5? phillips head screws that hold the drum on.
> They will not move and are starting to round off.

These are a Posidrive screw not a phillips head, that is why they are now 
rounding off :-(.  Appart from suggesting the correct bit and an Impact 
driver I cant think of much else to get them off, unless its reached the 
cold chisel stage....

Once you get the drum off make sure that the top of the shoes rests 
happily on the top post.  On mine the cable had been over adjusted such 
that the shoes could not return, and hence were in a "free floating" mode 
such that they just bounced around inside the drum making contact when 
ever they "felt" like it.

Backing the cable off until the shoes rested properly and re-adjusting 
the shoes worked wonders (ie the brake now works both forwards and 
reverse, cf reverse only before)

best of luck

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

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Date: Sun, 8 Sep 1996 16:34:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Howton <andrew_howton@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: 109 frames & 2.25L 5main blocks for sale

Ok I addmit it, I've got too much Rover junk laying around here.  Two of the
bigest lumps to work around are a pair of 109 frames.  My dad wants them out
of the yard so there going cheap.  Hows 500 CND (about 375 US) for a 1982
civi frame in exelent condition sound?  Not what you want?  How about a 70s
military frame that has been galvanized for 750 CND (about 563 US)?  I need
to move these things so make an offer.

The frames are in Calgary Alberta so you can figure out the shipping to were
ever you may be.

We also have two 2.25L 5main br blocks to flog (used and stripped) (come
with cranks, cams, etc...).  I think 500 CND each is a good price but as
with the frames we'd like them moved out so offer away.

Thanks for your time.

Andrew Howton    (604) 425-0598 
109 2door
110 2door (in parts still)

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Date: 8 Sep 96 19:52:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Wading and Winching
From: "Leon H. Akong" <akongj@tstt.net.tt>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

>A)-I have taken Hercules, my 1968 IIA which I have owned from new,
off
>roading in the newly formed Trinidad & Tobago Off Road Club.

Peter I'm interested in the club.  This is the first time I'm hearing
of it. Could you e-mail me the details.

We can also get together and look at your problem.

Jr (Series III 88" V8)
akongj@tstt.net.tt
809 642 8215
located in 
	http://www.city.net/countries/trinidad_and_tobago/

---------------------------------------------------

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Date: Sun, 8 Sep 1996 18:57:43 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca>
Subject: Re: Brake Problems

I think the trick of raising the vehicle front end will only work on the 
vehicles using CB type brake masters.  CB stands for centre ball and the 
ball has to be at the back of the master or it won't bleed, hence the 
raise the vehicle trick to get it there.  Dave VE4PN

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Date: Sun, 8 Sep 1996 19:01:47 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca>
Subject: RE: Leaf to Coil Springs

In the same vein of springs that won't slip hence a hard ride, the ones I 
just installed have a rubber consistency paint on them that seems to seal 
the slots so that dirt wont get in but at the same time allows sliding of 
the spring elements.  I have noticed a marked ride imporvement and if you 
stand on the bumper, you actually can bounce the Land Rover up and down.  
This is the first new set of springs I have ever installed so it is a 
treat after 8 bricks to actually ride in comfort.  One problem I am 
having and maybe my warning will help someone else, I haven't been able 
to find new rubber replacment eyes for the shocks in Manitoba.  I haven't 
tried a real chassis shop yet, but Canadian Tire etc. just laughed when I 
showed them what I wanted.  If the rubbers don't hold the shock tightly, 
you may as well run without shocks! Dave VE4PN

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Date: Sun, 08 Sep 1996 21:41:14 -0700
From: karlsson@edgenet.net (karlsson)
Subject: Re: Parking brake

Jeff & Laura Kessler wrote:
> Sorry about cross posting, but I bet the parking brake is very similar on
> all LRs and most coil sprung owners probably have not been into it.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)]
> 1988 Range Rover
> Newport NH USA   603-863-7883   lmkessler@srnet.com

I have never had any success with impact screwdrivers.  After struggling 
unsuccessfully trying to remove brake drum screws with the impact tool, I 
tried hammer and chisel.  Worked like magic!  If you are careful, you can 
remove these screws with little or no damage.  Don't know how it would 
work in your case.

John Karlsson
Hope Valley, RI

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Date: Sun, 08 Sep 1996 18:06:00 -0700
From: Jeremy J Bartlett <Bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: CB was Re: Brake Problems

David Place wrote:
> I think the trick of raising the vehicle front end will only work on the
> vehicles using CB type brake masters.  CB stands for centre ball and the
> ball has to be at the back of the master or it won't bleed, hence the
> raise the vehicle trick to get it there.  Dave VE4PN

At the risk of sounding like I know what I'm talking about :) ,
CB stands for Compression Barrel - there's no ball in it.
(CV stands for Center Valve).  I believe that the act of raising the 
vehicle front is to account for the tilt of the master cylinder on the
brake pedal mount.  I think the tilt leads to trapping of air in the
rear of the CB unit.  I'm not sure why this isn't also the case for the 
CV

cheers,

Jeremy

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From: Andy Purser <apurs@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: unsubscribe 
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 03:52:44 +0000

unsubscribe

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From: Andy Purser <apurs@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Series III 
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 03:58:27 +0000

Hello,
    Thanks to all those who have answered my questions and swapped ideas and
parts around the last year or so, but I must say goodbye. I finally sent my
'73 Series III to a new home this past Sat.  I'm going to start some new
vehicular projects this fall to include a 1957 model CJ-6 JEEP (like a CJ-5
but 20" longer) of which only 1236 were made in that year. I will miss the
Landy but certainly not the high part prices or the attitudes of some of the
parts vendors. Well, everyone take care and happy rovering.
Andy

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Date: Sun, 08 Sep 1996 21:44:13 -0700
From: Irv Berteig <berteig@accessone.com>
Subject: Brake Problems HELP!!!!

Bruce raised the last question on this thread...

One trick that I have not seen mentioned in this thread on bleeding brakes
on 109's is to elevate the front wheels as much as possible due to the
location of the bleed nipples and/or pipe routing.  Seems that some air
remains trapped and rejoins in the night . . . or something like that.
Anyway, it worked for me after a month of frustration and alot of brake
fluid pumpted through the system.

Good luck

Irv

     _________
    |----+----|         berteig@accessone.com
    |___=3D=3D=3D___|          
    |=95=95|O O|=95=95|         '67 SIIA 109SW - 2.6L
    |__|___|__|       
     ||     ||      I became an automechanic at age 50 
  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^      upon buying a Land Rover.

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From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Subject: LR toys for sale
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 01:27:54 -0600 (MDT)

A while ago, Dixon posted a message about Robin Craig's large toy and 
model collection going up for sale as a single unit.  He was unable to 
find a buyer, and is now prepared to sell individual pieces.  Contact 
Robin and he will send you a list of pieces:

Robin Craig
2821 H Baycrest Drive
Ottawa, Ontario K1V 7P6

613-738-7880

(he no longer has an email address)

... and don't contact me about this matter:  this is all I know.

T. F. Mills
tomills@du.edu                               University of Denver Library
http://www.du.edu/~tomills                          Denver  CO 80208  USA

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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 09:35:48 +0100 (WET DST)
From: David Bothe <bothe@ns.itz-koeln.de>
Subject: Mercedes Benz Diesel Engine

Hi!

I am thinking about swaping the V8-engine of my SIII 109 Station with a
Mercedes Benz 300 D Diesel engine. A Guy in my town offers cits to fix
non-rover machines to Landys. The cits consist of a special disc, to fix
the engine to the gearbox and some transmission parts. He sells it for 700
DM (450-500 $, I think). What do you think about this? Is it fair? What
are your experiences with non-rover engines?

Thanx,

David

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Top Gear and Euro Legislation
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 96 8:45:05 BST

> The subject of the Top Gear report is of tremendous significance to all 
> freedom loving individuals.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> heads which shear off when the correct torque is reached. Why? To stop 
> individuals taking them apart and changing them - or 

Yes, I was talking to a mate of mine at the weekend, in Cambridge, who is
a recent bike convert. Surprised Top Gear didn't mention the bike proposals.

> Write to your MP and Euro MP now, before the young graduates who are 
> attempting to justify their existence in Brussels actually sneak this 
> legislation through.

<cough>
I'm not in Brussels, but there's nothing wrong with the majority of
graduates...             :-)

Richard   (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR, and 2 recent degrees)

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From: philippe.carchon@rug.ac.be
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 10:01:04 +0200
Subject: gauges

Hi,
maybe a stupid question: yesterday the fuel gauge, water temperature gauge 
and oil temperature gauge (ex-mil.) didn't move. Is this because of a bad 
fuse or something else ? If it is where can this fuse be located 
(lightweight)? I've checked the ones on  the steering wheel but they look fine.

Philippe Carchon
'81 lightweight
Ghent, Belgium
Marnix Vangheluwe
Laboratory for Biological Research in Aquatic Pollution
J. Plateaustraat 22
University Ghent
9000 Gent, Belgium
T:  32 9 264 37 66
F:  32 9 264 41 99
E mail: marnix.vangheluwe@rug.ac.be

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: gauges
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 96 9:29:43 BST

> Hi,
> maybe a stupid question: yesterday the fuel gauge, water temperature gauge 
> and oil temperature gauge (ex-mil.) didn't move. Is this because of a bad 
> fuse or something else ? If it is where can this fuse be located 
> (lightweight)? I've checked the ones on  the steering wheel but they look fine.

24V?
the temp. gauge and the oil gauge are both capillary devices. There is no
such thing as an electric oil gauge (apparently).
This appears to rule out your fuse problem.
It would be hard to explain all three gauges not working, unless 2 capillaries
came un-done, and a wire.
Its possible that you're now running a 12V temp gauge, in which case you
only need to break 2 things.

I'm currently in the process of getting my temp. gauges working.
I'm replacing the capillary gauges with civvie. 12V items (using a water gauge
for the oil gauge,etc) and adding a 12V regulator.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

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From: "Jean Risse" <jris@oce.nl>
Subject: How to exceed roof load capacity?
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 10:29:01 +0100

Hi there,

I am planning on mounting a roof rack plus sleeping unit on my LR which
weighs about 160 kilo. The load is evenly spread on the D-110 ('94) roof
and there are 12 supporting beams of 10 centimeters wide. Also there will
be two people sleeping up there, but then the car will not be in motion (I
hope ;-))

I know that LR states that 75 kilo should not be exceeded, but I've seen
roof loads far heavier than that, while the shape of the car still reminded
me of a LR.

Does anyone have experience with 'heavy' loads on D-110? I am specially
looking for information on things, like the gutter, (not) breaking off.
Please tell me about it.

I know I can install chassis mounts, but I don't want to put on extra
weight unnecessary.

Thanks,

Jean Risse
D110/94

___________________
This note does not necessarily represent the position of Oce-
Nederland B.V. Therefore no liability or responsibility for what-
ever will be accepted.

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From: Inkornoink@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 05:01:27 -0400
Subject: Re: BRITISH CAR SHOW 

greg--

enjoyed meeting you yesterday...hope that your family were able to enjoy a
bit of the show (in between the raindrops!)

hank gregory
1990 RRc (moby)
1966 109sw (ted)

PS -- your defender is incredible looking  ---  where did you get the
black/grey colored seat covers?

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From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de
Subject: Re: How to exceed roof load capacity?
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 11:02:24 +0200 (METDST)

Hi Jean,
| I know that LR states that 75 kilo should not be exceeded, but I've seen
OUPS! Are you sure?

| roof loads far heavier than that, while the shape of the car still reminded
| me of a LR.
| Does anyone have experience with 'heavy' loads on D-110? I am specially
| looking for information on things, like the gutter, (not) breaking off.

I occasionaly transported up to about 300kg of wood (how are this long 
rectangular cut pieces used for bilding house roofs called ?) on
4 Thule roof bars. I had to drive carefully and slow, but the hardtop
still looks as before.
I think 160kg is still ok if you don't travel on very rough roads.
The additional load when you sleep up there won't harm, since this
is a more or less static force, while the dynamic forces from the 
Rover jumping over bumps in the road are much greater.

Be aware that increasing the roofload will increase the risk of a roll over.

Hope this helps
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                 tbr1102@sunmail.lrz-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

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From: g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald)
Subject: Re: Green Laning
Date: Mon, 09 Sep 1996 09:42:05 GMT

On Mon, 26 Aug 1996 10:18:27 -0400 (EDT), you wrote:

>Would anyone be interested in some light green laning on Sat. 28, Sept.?  This 
>would be in Moultonboro, NH.  Meeting abiut 10:00, picnic in the mountains 
>with a view, then to the top of mt Shaw (3000'). No body damage.

Can't recall if I replied, just back from 2 weeks away. Yes, planning
on attending. Maybe more news in later emails fromyou, will wade
through them all.

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

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From: g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald)
Subject: Re: French Members
Date: Mon, 09 Sep 1996 10:30:57 GMT

On Wed, 28 Aug 1996 14:51:24 +0200, you wrote:

>Like some of us, I don't know where are the french 
>rovers, probably not over the Internet, but here I 
>am. 

I picked up a French 4WD magazine which included a list of dealers in
France. There seem to me to be very few LR dealers in France.

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

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From: "Peter & Julie Rosvall" <rosvall@mis.ca>
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 07:30:27 +0000
Subject: Re: 109 frames & 2.25L 5main blocks for sale

military frame that has been galvanized for 750 CND (about 563 US)?  I need
to move these things so make an offer.

I might be interested in this if shipping was halfway 
reasonable.......

Peter Rosvall
rosvall@mi.net

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  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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