[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | Defender@belgonet.be (Lu | 27 | re: Series III Brakes |
2 | Michel Bertrand [mbertra | 30 | Re: British Invasion in VT |
3 | Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D | 11 | Brakes-Relief Valve |
4 | source@trinidad.net (Pet | 55 | Wading and Winching |
5 | source@trinidad.net (Pet | 13 | Wader Kit |
6 | Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D | 11 | British Car Show-Oakville Ontario Sept 15th |
7 | Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D | 13 | Re Bye Bye VW's |
8 | Stephen Brown [sbrown@tr | 30 | Corrosion Protection, how? |
9 | QROVER80@aol.com | 15 | Brake Booster Question |
10 | harincar@internet.mdms.c | 28 | Re: 88 shocks |
11 | Adrian Redmond [channel6 | 45 | Brake servo warning lamp |
12 | Jonathan Morris Coulter | 15 | Re: Transfer case problems |
13 | "Tom Rowe" [WI.Center.fo | 48 | Re: Brake servo warning lamp |
14 | "Tom Rowe" [WI.Center.fo | 19 | Re: 88 (Rancho) shocks |
15 | uf974@freenet.victoria.b | 18 | Chatter |
16 | uf974@freenet.victoria.b | 21 | UK Computer Prices |
17 | uf974@freenet.victoria.b | 21 | SI Questions |
18 | daviscar@concentric.net | 47 | the big adventure |
19 | David Olley at New Conce | 24 | Transmission noise |
20 | David Olley at New Conce | 21 | Air Tools |
21 | Adrian Redmond [channel6 | 40 | Re: Brake servo warning lamp |
22 | Andrew Steele [ad158@day | 26 | Re: towing |
23 | "Tom Rowe" [WI.Center.fo | 22 | Re: Brake servo warning lamp |
24 | ASFCO@aol.com | 9 | Re: 88 (Rancho) shocks |
25 | lopezba@atnet.at | 16 | Re: Rear brake troubles |
26 | lopezba@atnet.at | 23 | Re: Air tools |
27 | Adrian Redmond [channel6 | 31 | Series III leaf-springs |
28 | "John P. Casteel" [jcast | 53 | Series Database |
29 | PDoncaster@aol.com | 44 | Busted Diff. in N.C....Wait'n for parts |
30 | Ernie Young [ernyoung@ea | 13 | Missing holes in head |
31 | Solihull@aol.com | 19 | Re: 88 shocks reply |
32 | twakeman@scruznet.com (T | 87 | Re: Wading and Winching |
33 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 23 | Air saws |
34 | "Steven L. Meier" [1021 | 136 | 109 BRAKES AND BOOSTER |
35 | Jeff & Laura Kessler [lm | 22 | Re: British Invasion in VT |
36 | Greg Moore [gmoore@islan | 16 | Re: Air tools |
37 | Allan Smith [smitha@cand | 24 | Then there were two |
38 | faurecm@halcyon.com (C. | 31 | Re: Vehicle database |
39 | "P Burgers" [PBURGERS@CP | 14 | lead free Chevy conversions |
40 | "Mr Ian Stuart" [Ian.Stu | 32 | Re: Replacing (Series III) leaf-springs |
41 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 21 | Re: Brake servo warning lamp |
42 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 20 | Re: So Called Specialists |
43 | M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M | 12 | Re: So Called Specialists |
44 | "Mr Ian Stuart" [Ian.Stu | 45 | Re: Top Gear V's the car lobby |
45 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 32 | Re: So Called Specialists |
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 12:21:50 +0200 From: Defender@belgonet.be (Luc Rokegem) Subject: re: Series III Brakes I had the same problem with my 110 and replacing the master cilynder didn't help, replacing the drums either, So I started to live with it and adjusted the brakes regulary. After some time I pulled the drums off and noticed that the shoes where not dragging even. The reason for this could be the shoes-adjusters or maybe there is a difference between the leading and trailling shoes. What will help is replacing the brake cilynders by smaller ones. Originally one my 110 there where smaller ones fitted and till then I had never problems, but a mechanic had told me that I needed the bigger ones and from then the problems started. Eventually I gave up and replaced the hole thing with diskbrakes witch work fine. No more adjusting and instant and progressive breaking. This was the best conversion I ever did. regards, _______________ Luc Rokegem // | | St-Pauwels (Belgie) ______//_ _ | |# defender@belgonet.be | __ __ |# http://www.belgonet.be/~bn000165/index.html |__/ \__________/ \__| \__/ \__/ lawyers and Land-Rovers must be well greased ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 07:31:08 -0400 From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@InterLinx.qc.ca> Subject: Re: British Invasion in VT At 22:42 96-09-04 -0500, you wrote: >Cost is $35 and as I was told the goodys they give you is worth at least that. 35$!! What kind of goodies do you get for 35$? Is it reallly worth it. Must be the most expensive show in North America. And after that, you have to pay a car-wash to remove all the drool left on the wings and such by MG and Triumph owners. Do they have student rates? Hey, I'm not that rich.... Michel Michel Bertrand ______ Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, / __ / \ 1963 109 PU (Rudolph) | Lucas | 1968 109 SW (in the works) | Inside | 1973 88 SW (21st century project) \ / \______/ mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca <<---- Note new address! ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA> Subject: Brakes-Relief Valve Date: Thu, 05 Sep 96 08:01:00 DST Ben Your problem sounds like it may be related to the setting of the pedal stop bolt. If the pedal doesn't return far enough the small check valve at the end of the master cylinder is held closed and fliud can't return to the reservior. ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 07:55:43 -0400 From: source@trinidad.net (Peter Quentrall-Thomas) Subject: Wading and Winching Three fantastic events have recently happened in my life. A)-I have taken Hercules, my 1968 IIA which I have owned from new, off roading in the newly formed Trinidad & Tobago Off Road Club. B)-I have dicovered the InterNet and e-mail C)-I have dicovered the LR Digest. However I need HELP. If I have sent this message to the wrong place or the answers are easily found somewhere else my appoligies in advance and my thanks for telling me how to get there. QUESTIONS:- A)-Every time I cross a stream where the water covers the wheels the 4 cyl. petrol engine promptly shuts off without even a splutter. The moment the Suzuki jeeps which I travel with, and who cross the rivers as if they were just little puddles, pull me out ( imagine the embarrassment), the engine starts first touch of the ignition. I have covered the distibuter and leads with a large plastic container to stop the mechanical fan from drowing the iginition (which does not go under water), all to no avail. Is the problem the dynamo (original) which is on the lower left hand side? Does this somehow short out the electics? As a result of shutting down in the middle of a stream the gearbox always fills with water even though I have a plug in the bellhousing drain hole. How can I prevent this? Where can I find a comprehensive source of advice on preparing a IIA for wading? B)-Ninty percent of the time my Hercules is used to pull other brands of vehicles when they are stuck. Te other 10% is spent with usually two of them trying to pull Hercules out. The day will come when Hercules will really get stuck so I need to think about a winch. WARN USA have quoted me some $600US for a model 9000 + $120US for an accessory kit FOB Miami. This seems like a lot of money to me. Is there a cheaper model/brand/approach to procuring a winch? I see a brand called "SuperWinch" in LRO. Is it any good? Which model is best? C)-Where can I find a book/manual/tips etc on preparing a Series IIA for serious off roading in the tropics i.e. through thick mud in the rain forests, across fairly fast moving streams, up slippery mountain sides. D)-Where can I find info and costs on "Limited Slip", "Air Lockers" or "Locking Diffs" for a IIA? A million thanks for any help or advice offered. If you are ever in Trinidad (Next to Grenada in the Caribbean) and you want to go off road call me on 809-622-7642 (4 lines) Peter ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 07:56:21 -0400 From: source@trinidad.net (Peter Quentrall-Thomas) Subject: Wader Kit Patrick Townsend said he saw a '55 Series 1..... Extensively rebuilt with wader kit. What is a Wader Kit? Who sells them for Series IIA? Price, contact, fax # etc? Regards Peter The Wolf ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA> Subject: British Car Show-Oakville Ontario Sept 15th Date: Thu, 05 Sep 96 08:07:00 DST Toronto Truimph Club's British Car Day takes place at Bronte Creek Provincial Park, Oakville, Ontario (Exit 109 from QEW) September 15. Gates open at 10am for additional details call the TTC info line 416 410 4TTC. Lots of Land Rovers including 101's and multitudes of other British vehicles. ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA> Subject: Re Bye Bye VW's Date: Thu, 05 Sep 96 08:14:00 DST We said bye bye to our VW bus when son Alex (ex LR owner too) left for the west. Alex is now in BC at Salt Spring Island near Victoria and is in the market for another Land Rover. (Then we can get the camper back) He's not connected yet but any LROs in the area, he'd like to get in touch and I can forward phone numbers. RegardsTrevor - SIIA SWB SW 1962 and 1974 VW Westfalia ($100 plus $500 in parts and paint) ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 08:10:30 -0400 From: Stephen Brown <sbrown@trek.ned.ara.com> Subject: Corrosion Protection, how? I just moved from arid New Mexico to Vermont with my 33+ year old 88 IIa. There is only minor surface rust on the frame, mostly under the battery and around the spring bushes (where the spring shop heated it up to replace the springs a few years back). The Bulkhead/firewall is rust free as well. I want to keep it that way, but winter's coming up and this is my daily commuting vehicle so I cant park it. Does anyone have suggestions on the best way to go about preventing corrosion. I've been told to sandblast rust, paint then undercoat -- also the folklore around here is to have the thing oiled or greased completely underneath. Any help will be appreciated. Steve Brown -- +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Stephen Brown Applied Research Associates RR 1 Box 120A, Waterman Road South Royalton, Vermont 05068 (802) 763-8348 voice (802) 763-8283 fax sbrown@ned.ara.com +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: QROVER80@aol.com Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 08:32:30 -0400 Subject: Brake Booster Question Dear Mr. Newman I had a NADA that had exactly the problem you describe. The problem with the brakes on your wagon have nothing to do with the booster. Someone has adjusted the master cylinder pushrod incorrectly. Probably in an effort to improve the brakes when they were in poor condition. You should go through the entire system and adjust the brakes on all four wheels and the master. There needs to be about an inch of "free play" at the brake pedal. It is possible that once everything is adjusted correctly the brakes will need to be bled to regain a firm pedal. Rgds Quintin Aspin ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: harincar@internet.mdms.com Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 08:07:06 -0500 Subject: Re: 88 shocks tom, I bought my ranchos from 4 wheel drive wholesalers in california. they advertise in the monster truck and 4 wheel drive mags. Usually they run a 4/$99 deal on RS5000s, which is how I got mine. They new what i was talking about when I said LR Ser. IIa 88, and just to be sure I made them read me back the part numbers they were sending me. They seemed to be returns or old stock - one of my boxes had definatly been opened before, but the shock itself was in good shape and didn't appear to have ever been used or mounted. There was some discussion once about a lot of counterfiet ranchos being on the market, but none were found from these guys and they matched the identification people said to look for on genuine ranchos (this was on the 4x4 list, maybe?). Anyhow, I'm happy with them. I just need new front springs... Tim --- tim harincar harincar@mooregs.com '66 IIa 88 SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 1996 15:45:36 -0700 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Brake servo warning lamp Can anyobody help with this one? My two series IIIs (and all the other series II's I have seen here in Denmark) have a rectangular black switch on the centre panel of the dash. The switch includes a red lamp, and is momentary in cation. This is connected to a pressure switch in the brake vacuum servo, and if vacuum fails/falls the lamp lights up. The switch can be pressed (labelled "TEST") to check the lamp (I don't know whether it tests the entire circuit, or just the lamp). When you trun on the ignition, the lamp lights, but after a few seconds of tickover it should (used to) go out). The lamp comes on periodically after heavy braking, and goes out soon after. My 88" is retrofitted with a vacuum pump, thus eliminating the traditional series III problem of leaky servo and pipes and missing vaccum. There is plenty of vacuum. Recently my lamp started to light all the time, even though there is plenty of vacuum effect and apparantly good braking. The lamp/test switch circuit is not included in the Haynes manual, or the LR Series III Danish workshop manual. There is a white wire (+12v?) and a black and white wire. Where do they go? There are two wires to the switch on the servo? are these the same two wires? Where is the power feed for this circuit? Can anyone help (sounds like a problem for Dixon kenner?) -- adrian redmond --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) tel: +45 86 57 22 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk 1: Series III 1976 109" D Pick-up 2: Series III 1979 88" D Hard top (Icelander) --------------------------------------------------- "Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!" --------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 10:24:27 -0400 (EDT) From: Jonathan Morris Coulter <jcoulter@warren-wilson.edu> Subject: Re: Transfer case problems Pardon the ignorance, but this is not related to transfer case problems. What this is about trying to stop recieving this mail from this rover group. I am presently enrolled at a college in North Carolina and I will be away from here for a while. I don't want to clog up the E-mail system here so Majordomo, please disconnect me from this service. Thank you. jonathan coulter jcoulter@warren-wilson.edu ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <WI.Center.for.Dairy.Research@calshp.cals.wisc.edu> Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 09:38:56 -6 Subject: Re: Brake servo warning lamp snip > Recently my lamp started to light all the time, even though there is > plenty of vacuum effect and apparantly good braking. snip The circut also includes a switch at a brake failure valve that is in-line between the front and rear circuts. If one or the other circuts has a leak a shuttle valve will move in the direction of that circut to stop the loss of brake fluid. The movement of this valve activates a switch that lights the dash lamp. Because of this valve, you should turn on the ignition switch while bleeding the system (disconnect the coil to prevent it overheating). If the lamp lights during the bleed process you should bleed some fluid out of the other circut until the lamp goes out. I know you said yours comes on when you turn on the ignition, but this should not be the case. You may have a faulty switch somewhere. Try disconnecting the wires at each switch, one at a time to see if the lamp goes out. I'm not sure, but logic tells me that you would have to disconnect the vacum switch while bleeding the brakes to keep it from energizing the lamp. Maybe someone else has the definitive answer on that. There is another switch that will be activated if your pedal travel becomes to great. It's mounted on the box the MC mounts in. And finally, there is the vacum activated switch you know about. This will of course tell if your booster has a leak. One way to test your booster is to, with the engine shut off, pump the brakes several times to get rid of any residual vacum, then start the engine while holding the brake pedal down. You should feel the pedal move to the floor as vacum is created in the booster. Hopefully, with the other info on the circut I've provided, you will have an idea of places to look. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research Madison,WI, USA 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@aae.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <WI.Center.for.Dairy.Research@calshp.cals.wisc.edu> Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 09:41:52 -6 Subject: Re: 88 (Rancho) shocks > I bought my ranchos from 4 wheel drive wholesalers in california. they snip Thanks. I thought they might be a source. They have a web site, but the damn Internet was so slow yesterday, I gave up trying to connect. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research Madison,WI, USA 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@aae.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 07:59:04 -0700 (PDT) From: uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (Clinton D. Coates) Subject: Chatter Does anyone on the net drive a green? military looking 109 with a full soft top around Vancouver? I have passed one twice in the evening on number 1 going east (the 109). Just curious. Clinton -- __x___x_ / Clinton D. Coates uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca |__|__|__\/__ | | |_ | *Emerson* 61 lwb pickup.....mostly runs (_)"""""(_)" *If it doesn't leak, its not a Land Rover* ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 08:00:06 -0700 (PDT) From: uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (Clinton D. Coates) Subject: UK Computer Prices Sorry about the non-rover content. My sister in-law is going to Edinburgh U this fall and was wondering about the price of computers over in the UK, specifically lap tops. If any UK list members could email me back-channel on prices I would really appreciate it. TIA Clinton -- __x___x_ / Clinton D. Coates uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca |__|__|__\/__ | | |_ | *Emerson* 61 lwb pickup.....mostly runs (_)"""""(_)" *If it doesn't leak, its not a Land Rover* ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 08:00:48 -0700 (PDT) From: uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (Clinton D. Coates) Subject: SI Questions Two questions. Will galvanizing a SI 80" frame seriously reduce its value as a collecter item or its ability to be given BC collector plates? And, can the rear axles be easily converted to full floating? Clinton -- __x___x_ / Clinton D. Coates uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca |__|__|__\/__ | | |_ | *Emerson* 61 lwb pickup.....mostly runs (_)"""""(_)" *If it doesn't leak, its not a Land Rover* ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: daviscar@concentric.net Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 11:05:27 -0400 (EDT) Subject: the big adventure Hi All Well some of you know I was looking for a 109. I found it! This last week I went to NY State with the car doctor to pick up a 1959 109 sw. We went with the Idea of fixing the brackes and driving it back to IL. As we were told it was running but had no brakes. The po was of some help but seeing as he is 71 years old and ill he could not help much. Well the LR ran sort of do to the willies carb it runs uneven poppinng back and so on. It seems the LR had not been run for two years or more. The po said he had installed a new master cyl. about a year ago what he did not tell us was he had not reconceted the brake lines. He keep telling us the was no reason to "rebuild the hubs" or "look at the brake shoes" that everything was fine there. Wrong the brake cylinders was seezed in front on one side. The back was not that much better. We found or first real problem when we tried to replace the rear cylinders the new ones did not fit in the backing plate as it was the old style three bolt type not the two bolt type. So after a few phone calles to AB and Dap we found out that there was someone about 8 miles away that might be of some help. We gave him a call and he had two backing plates we bought them. (thanks Erine) I know that the car doctor has already posted some of the other problems we had with the brakes. The lr has solid doors By this I mean you can't remove the door tops. I under stand that this was a cold weather option is this true? The LR came with some pair parts like a galvenized frame, a spair trans, most of the lights, new brake shoes front and rear, and all the wheel cylinders. But even with all of the help and spairs we just could not make it run well enuff to drive back home safely. So I rented a ryder truck annd tow dolly and for the first time for any distances I towed the LR home. I had to Rob (car doctor) was towing the frame. I do have a question the frame has two holes in the cross member the rear drive shaft passes though one of them I know and the pto shaft is to go in the bend of it but what is the other hole for? Just one more thing the LR did come from the East coast so I now know how the mid west got some of its Rovers. It cam from Saugerties NY. For all of you who want to know how I found it. It was advertized in AB's ads. I will have the LR at the Brittish car show on the 8th in Des plaines. If any one who is local whats to see it. Bruce 67 SIIA 88 Patches 59 109 SW (no name yet) (home now.) Daviscar@concentric.net ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 1996 16:25:39 +0100 From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk> Subject: Transmission noise Dave B. says: > Removing the entire mechanism and placing all the parts in an old > bucket, and then bolting the drum back on was the perfect cure. I presume you now have to use your winching anchor to hold the beast on a hill. And what did you do with the bucketful of bits? {:-/ -- David Olley ............................................................... New Concept PO Box 61, Winchester, SO23 0HA, England Tel: +44(0)1962-840769 Fax : +44(0)1962-867367 Home Page: http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept ............................................................... ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 1996 16:25:47 +0100 From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk> Subject: Air Tools Ned Heite is right in saying that it would be impractical to use bottled compressed air for field use. Take a look at a race pit and see the size of bottle that they use for their air wrench! But a high output compressor can be fitted to the PTO of a Landy. Many were fitted that way in the UK. The air reservoir was built under the rear floor. Various utilities used them and examples can still be found here with the original installations. -- David Olley ............................................................... New Concept PO Box 61, Winchester, SO23 0HA, England Tel: +44(0)1962-840769 Fax : +44(0)1962-867367 Home Page: http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept ............................................................... ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 1996 18:08:23 -0700 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Re: Brake servo warning lamp Tom Rowe wrote: > The circut also includes a switch at a brake failure valve that is > in-line between the front and rear circuts. If one or the other circuts [ truncated by lro-digester (was 37 lines)] > Four wheel drive allows you to get > stuck in places even more inaccessible. Thanks Tom! I've just visited the Land Rover mechanic - apparantly the circuit in question is not included in either the Danish or English LR manuals, or even the haynes. If anyone has a circuit diagram (with wiring colours?) I'd be happy for a copy (fax +45 86 57 22 66). Changing the switch didn't help (didn't expect it to, but worth a try) but removing the vacuum reservoir from the circuit did! Without the reservoir in circuit the vacuum level rose (dropped?) and the brakes work fine, AND THE LIGHT GOES OUT!. Now I have got to find the leak - probably the hose! Thanks for the help! -- adrian redmond --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) tel: +45 86 57 22 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk 1: Series III 1976 109" D Pick-up 2: Series III 1979 88" D Hard top (Icelander) --------------------------------------------------- "Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!" (sometimes) --------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 1996 12:19:55 -0400 From: Andrew Steele <ad158@dayton.wright.edu> Subject: Re: towing I towed a series 88 with my 1987 Range Rover. I used the u-haul autotranspost trailer. It has tandem axles and surge brakes. I had to reload the rover 3 times (forwards, rearwards, forwards) trying to get the weight balance correct. The trailer had a hand crank winch (but it's still hard work). I was never able to get the wight balanced on the trailer with the wheels sitting in the load area on the trailer. I ended up disregarding the front wheel tie downs and repositioning the 88 in the center of the trailer using my own tie down straps. Not fun. It was still a very heavy tow with the weight too heavy on the back of the Range Rover. Until I shifted the 88 backwards on the trailer, any stop (even from less than 10 mph at stop signs) caused the front Range rRover wheels to lock and slide. If I ever tow it again, it will be on a tow dolly with only the front wheels loaded. (Never used one; but it would have to work better.) hope this helps. (PS, I went slowish and eventually got home (600+ miles). andrew dayton Oh ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <WI.Center.for.Dairy.Research@calshp.cals.wisc.edu> Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 11:39:43 -6 Subject: Re: Brake servo warning lamp snip > but removing the vacuum reservoir from the circuit did! Without the > reservoir in circuit the vacuum level rose (dropped?) and the brakes > work fine, AND THE LIGHT GOES OUT!. snip I suspected it was a vac leak given the symptoms. I'll see if any of my manuals have a wiring diagram. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research Madison,WI, USA 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@aae.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ASFCO@aol.com Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 12:54:53 -0400 Subject: Re: 88 (Rancho) shocks could someone please post the Rancho Part numbers front & rear, regular and heavy duty if available, then Dixon can add the new info to the FAQ. Steve ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 21:19:13 +0200 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: Re: Rear brake troubles Dear all, I don't know about later vehicles, but on Series I's the rear brake cylinders are supposed to move rather freely on the anchor plate, i. e the three studs have special self-locking nuts and you are *not* supposed to tighten them against the anchor plate. I have been told that if you do tighten them you might get very uneven pedal, apparently because of some adjustment of the shoes in relation to the wheels. You might check your workshop manuals. Regards Peter Hirsch SI 107in S/W Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1) ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 21:19:25 +0200 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: Re: Air tools Ned Heite wrote: :Could one :set up an air-powered field kit on a Land Rover? Air-driven chain saws? :Air-driven winches? Air-driven trash pumps? PTO-driven compressors? 12v :compressors? I know you can store compressed air for field use, but it has :a finite life. Any experiences? There was a PTO-driven compressor for the Series One. There is a club member who demonstrates all sorts of additions to his Series One 80" at shows - mowers, power saw bench, the compressor, and a small grain mill if I remember right. Another member has a rear PTO mounted milking machine on his 88. No idea where you could get any of these, but the idea is sound. Regards Peter Hirsch SI 107in S/W Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1) ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 1996 21:21:20 -0700 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Series III leaf-springs I am considering replacing the leaf-springs on bot my 88" and 109", as they are all of good age and the cars are now a little spongy, and sit at their own peculiar angles when parked level. I am tired of rusty springs, I know they work OK, but they look terrible, especially when the rest of the undercarriage is completly rustfree gloss black. Can one buy Galvanised springs? (In europe? fed-ex charges maybe a little high considering the weight!)) Does anyone have any experience of this matter. Are there better alternatives to LR originals - I seek long working life, good suspension and handling, and a clean, new appearance. Does this exist? -- adrian redmond --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) tel: +45 86 57 22 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk 1: Series III 1976 109" D Pick-up 2: Series III 1979 88" D Hard top (Icelander) --------------------------------------------------- "Two SIII Land Rovers are more reliable than one!" --------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 1996 17:33:23 -0500 From: "John P. Casteel" <jcasteel@mindspring.com> Subject: Series Database OK, after labor day the stream of entries for the database has dwindled. So far, about 29 people have sent me information about their vehicles and I know that there are many more of you out there!!! So, I am soliciting your information again, the format needed is as follows: VIN,year,type,size,name,color,current location,country,shape,original dealer,e-mail,lro-net,notes meaning: VIN - chassis number/vehicle identification number year - year as registered type - I, II, IIa, III size - 86,88,109,107 etc name - what have you named your vehicle or none color - the current color of vehicle current location - ie Colorado country - ie USA, UK, Germany shape - - choose one of the following dd - daily driver dr - drivable ur - under restoration pc - parts car dy - destroyed original dealer - the original dealer if known e-mail - the owners e-mail address or "none" lro-net - if this car is owned by a subsriber to lro-net then put "lro-net" here otherwise use "unk" for unknown. notes - anything you'd like noted seperated by semi-colon Examples: 26204112B,1965,IIa,88,Lurch,Light Green,Colorado,USA,dd,private party import,unk,lro-net,RHD Dormobile owned since 1976 26406309H,1970,IIa,109,White Rover,Tan,Arizona,USA,dd,unk,unk,lro-net,LHD; Safari top;5 door;deluxe bonnet;tire mount on bonnet and r-door;rear wiper added;overdrive;11 pass wagon;rear heater;deluze interior;20 gal SS tank;everything works 24442498G,1971,IIa,88,none,Red,Arizona,USA,dr,Arizona,unk,lro-net,trail truck;military 1 ton shacles;white spoke wheels;headlights in the breakfast;toyota land cruiser rear folding seats;rancho5000 shocks;future engine transplant ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: PDoncaster@aol.com Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 17:45:05 -0400 Subject: Busted Diff. in N.C....Wait'n for parts I left the Big Easy on Monday in my IIa 88. Final destination is Maine. Stopped in Uniontown, Alabama the first night to see an old college professor, then on to Atlanta on Tuesday. I was pulling away from a stop light in Atlanta on Wednesday and POP!.... spin.....klunk...grind...NO foreward momentum. Half Shaft! No Problem, got an extra set with me. 20 MINUTES TOPS! Got out, locked the hubs, eased down the yellow knob, and pulled into a parking lot. It happened to be sloped, so I parked purpendicular to the slope, and went to work on the uphill rear hub. Pulled out the half shaft....It was good! Damn. Turned the truck around and pulled out the other half shaft. It was good TOO! Checked the drive shaft, yeah, it's turning....must be the Diff. By this time I'm thinking " I relly dont want to wait around for surface mail to get a new diff" And the guys eating lunch in a moving van near by were thinking "What the hell is that guy doing" Well, I did what any other LRO would do, I disconnected the rear prop shaft, took out both half shafts, and drove (waving to the guys in the truck) on the front wheels to a quiet (it was about noon) bar, and called RN.... "Aren't the front an rear diff's the same?? Can I swap them??? Yes, cool, send me a couple of diff gaskets and anything else I'll need.........Hey, is it ok to drive on the front wheels with the rear disconnected? Cool, send the parts to North Carolina." I drove to a friend's house in Greeensboro, NC. (where I am now) No problems, even got the same top speed. 100km/hr. The parts should be here tomorow, so I can make the swap. (just in time for the hurricane to hit) I cant wait to pull the diff to see what's awry. I have tools, and soon, parts, but could use any advice y'all can offer...... (this is FUN, right?) Peter Doncaster '64 IIa 88" (front wheel drive) ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 1996 22:02:30 -0400 From: Ernie Young <ernyoung@earthlink.net> Subject: Missing holes in head On Tue, 3 Sep 1996, Terje Krogdahl wrote: > Speaking of fibre gaskets missing some holes, my engine has a small > overheating problem after my rebuild... is there a way to figure out > wether I have a gasket with missing holes? No? Thought so. I believe they have been printing the photos of missing holes on the sides of oil cans for some time now... ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Solihull@aol.com Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 21:49:18 -0400 Subject: Re: 88 shocks reply I copies this from the list about a year ago, Maybe this will help: These are the RS5000's Front Rear 88 5163 7169(this is the rs7000) 109 5164 NONE 109(1ton) 5164 5157 90 5159 5157 For the steering stablizer complete kit 97435 Cheers!! John (packrat, with cluttered hard drive to prove it!) Dillingham ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 19:25:22 -0700 From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Subject: Re: Wading and Winching At 7:55 AM 9/5/96 -0400, Peter Quentrall-Thomas wrote: >QUESTIONS:- ; >A)-Every time I cross a stream where the water covers the wheels the 4 cyl. >petrol engine promptly shuts off without even a splutter. The moment the >Suzuki jeeps which I travel with, and who cross the rivers as if they were ;just little puddles, pull me out ( imagine the embarrassment), the engine >starts first touch of the ignition. I have covered the distibuter and leads ;with a large plastic container to stop the mechanical fan from drowing the >iginition (which does not go under water), all to no avail. Is the problem ;the dynamo (original) which is on the lower left hand side? Does this >somehow short out the electics? ; This seems puzzling, If your electrics got wet, they normally have to dry before they start working again. I think you need to experiment. Get a friend in a trusty rice burner and go find a puddle. When your engine dies, pop the bonnet and look to see what's wet and whats underwater before getting a pull out. You are worried about th generator. Disconnect the wires at the generator and tape them off. Drive through a puddle & see if the engine stops. Do a close examination of your wiring and clean connections while you are at it. If you are wading in deep water, you might want to put a muff in front of the radiator to keep water off the fan. You should have both shrouds behind the radiator. The second one acts as a splash guard. I have bent the wide lip section in front of the distributer down to further protect the distributer. The more expensive genuine LR spark plug leads are the best that I have seen for protecting electrics against moisture. experiment with a hose if you need too. >As a result of shutting down in the middle of a stream the gearbox always >fills with water even though I have a plug in the bellhousing drain hole. >How can I prevent this? Where can I find a comprehensive source of advice >on preparing a IIA for wading? There is a vent hole on the top of the transfer case and on a little plate at the top rear of the transmission. These will let water in if underwater, and at that point you are not doing shallow wading. A cure is to drill out the vent holes, tap them and install D90 rear breathers. You can tee them together and run the tube up the bulkhead. You also want to put Defender axle breathers on the axles too. I found the BIG bonus was reduced pressure and vatly reduced leakage through seals. You NEVER want to get water in your carb. It doesn't compress & will break your engine. Use the stock air cleaner and to not get it under water with the engine running (very difficult to do) or get a snorkle kit. You can try wraping a turn or two of electrical tape around the seam at the base of the distributer cap. There used to be a wading kit that included a rubber cover for the distributer and one for the coil. They were so tight I never could get them on. Don't forget flotation seat bottoms, anchor and proper running lights 8*) >D)-Where can I find info and costs on "Limited Slip", "Air Lockers" or >"Locking Diffs" for a IIA? You probably want air lockers. Limited slip diffs may lok at the wrong time and put you in worse trouble than not having them. Besides they make a wonderful multideminsional storrage cabinet.... but that was a previous thread >A million thanks for any help or advice offered. If you are ever in >Trinidad (Next to Grenada in the Caribbean) and you want to go off road >call me on 809-622-7642 (4 lines) >on preparing a IIA for wading? Say, are you going to be in the path of the full solar eclipse Feb, 1998? >Peter >Trinidad (Next to Grenada in the Caribbean) and you want to go off road TeriAnn twakeman@scruznet.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 23:03:47 -0400 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Air saws Ned Heite wrote: >Got me to thinking. Could one set up an air-powered field kit on a Land >Rover. Air-driven chain saws? I was going though the book "Advertising the Land Rover" just today - basically a collection of twenty years (1949-1969) of LR ads and stuff - and there *was* a photo of a bloke cutting with an air powered saw. Trouble is you need a helluvalot of CFM but only moderate pressure. Cheers *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) | | 757-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 757-622-7056 | | | *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---* ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 05 Sep 96 23:30:03 EDT From: "Steven L. Meier" <102141.3253@CompuServe.COM> Subject: 109 BRAKES AND BOOSTER Re. 109 Brakes and no pedal until a "pump" . . . make sure the brake shoes are the correct thickness (the statement "I put on the old shoes and had brakes") . . . there are some supplied by USA parts houses and maybe others in the world (OZ for instance?) that are too thin = no pedal without a "pump". I don't remember the correct thickness (also insist on bonded of the correct type, not rivited linings, or the "squeal" will rival a "stuck pig") but will measure a set with correct thickness I have at the shop in the AM and post to the list tomorrow PM . . . I've been there . done that before . . . not "fun" . . . days and $ in Castrol GT/LMA and labor. The number of wheel cylinders is increased with no change of mechanical advantage in the pedal set up . . . Land Rover UK in the 60's saves some production $$$$$. Also, the 109 brake system is very sensitive to error in adjusting the brakes (floating shoes) . . . see below for the correct method . . . follow the owners manual (quoted) issued by Land Rover to reach success! Not an impossible problem that requires "rocket science". Re. the recent questions concerning adding vacuum assisted brakes to Series Rovers with a single system. A repost . . . sorry for the waste of band width to those who read it before. Needs to go to the FAQ. 6 cylinder 109's were originally equipped with a remote servo unit mounted behind the engine compartment battery box. The original Girling units are not rebuildable and used ones, due to age and a leather diaphragm (sometimes rubber), are not really safe . . . failure results in your brake fluid being sucked into the engine through the vacuum line, burned in a cloud of white smoke and no brakes. Yet another Land Rover fun experience. This does not mean reversion to no power assist on the 109's so equipped or the inability to add power assist to any single brake system. AP Lockheed, England, still makes new remote servo units and lists Girling interchangeability for 88's and 109's. I have replaced the original 6 cylinder 109 units with these on restoration projects and have added these to others with great results. It's a whole new braking experience for the Land Rover . . . no more "standing position" stops and you can actually lock up the wheels, so some caution and driver retraining is required. After a few test panic stops, relax and enjoy! Finally, servo failure does not result in brake failure . . . just the old pedal pressure you're now using will be in effect. Complete and very understandable installation instructions come with each new unit. Follow the "rules" and all will work well. Location within the right hand side of the engine compartment is ideal (can be a tight, but not impossible, fit with the oil bath air cleaner and battery in the original position). A suitable alternative is within the right wing (see instructions re. extension hose be fitted to the air control valve inlet due to dirt, grit and water exposure). In addition to your normal brake bleeding routine you will now need to bleed the servo unit twice (at the fitting) . . . 1st before bleeding the wheel cylinders and 2nd re-bleed the servo after the wheel cylinders. The following part(s) numbers apply. LR Install Kit* Servo Boost Ratio 88 LE72696 LR17818 1.90:1 109 LE10118 LR15248 2.00:1 109 LE10117 LR18221 3.00:1** * Not absolutely necessary if you're good at fabrication of mounts, pipes and hoses, etc. ** I have used this unit on two 109's and the added boost is quite nice on road, but it is to much for off road use . . . on rocky descents it is too easy to lock up the brakes resulting in tyre sliding rather than controlled wheel turning. Steve at BRITPAC has access to these units . . . it think by special order. Call him for details, $, etc. If you have question/problems re. availability/installation e-Mail to me or post on the list. Re. questions concerning adjusting 109 brakes >From Land-Rover Instruction Manual . Series IIA & IIB by Land Rover Ltd and applies to Series 107's and 109's + Forward Controls equipped with the front dual wheel cylinder set up and the single rear wheel set up. This is not found in the Haynes Manual and is "unclear" in the factory workshop manual. A bit of Land Rover Factory "humor", teaching . . . if a first you don't succeed, read yet another source! If in "= my comments" 1. Jack up each wheel in turn. "Up on 4 jack stands is quicker and easier in the long run." 2. Each shoe is independently set by means of a hexagon adjustment bolt operating through a serrated cam. "Two per wheel." 3. Apply the brake and set the snail cam adjusters so that the brake shoes are in firm contact with the drums. "After firmly applying the brakes (this serves to center the floating shoes to the drum), use a stick to hold the pedal down. If on jack stands, you can now set all the wheel adjusters. Now, remove the stick holding the pedal down." 4. Slacken off each adjuster just sufficiently for the drum to rotate freely. "Switch between the two on each wheel to get a balanced adjustment. If, due to worn snail cams, the adjustment is not precise, go for a bit of extra slack rather than leaving the shoes rub a bit . . . too tight and the drag = locked brakes when they heat up." 5. Repeat for the other wheels in turn. "If not on jack stands." Note: The rear brake shoes should be adjusted individually to obtain the best results. "I've never quite understood this . . . sounds like a British attempt to translate to Japanese and back to English . . . perhaps you all will understand and explain it to me." 6. Road test and readjust as needed (seldom a problem, but not one for heavy traffic later). I think the key point is applying the brakes to center the shoes . . . a logical requirement due to the floating shoe design of the system. It's quick, easy and best of all it works. * * * A Side Bar . . . I just ran some trails in Teluride, CO that were "fun" and "exciting" . . . The Rotary Club puts on a Rally every "late summer" (j**ps, j^ps, etc.) and has a lot of trails mapped out of various difficulty, from 2WD no damage scenery to 4WD + lockers only (they will share the info) . . . perhaps the site for the 1997 Land Rover National Rally . . . getting back to some trails with "adrenalin rush". Crested Butte was fun, but not realy a challenge. Comments . . . experience? Greg and Terry who organize the best events in the west . . . yes, I'll be more than happy to help. Also, whatever happend to the repeat of the "The Continental Divide" run? Perhaps with a "chuckwagon and cook, no NYC salsa" or everyone who comes is responsible for one evening meal and the winner of the "best of the best" gets a prize [(perhaps a new Defender . . . Land Rover North America (BMW) will be proud to supply it for the ads and photo opportunity?)]. I know of a River Runners group that does this each summer . . . they have a great time spending a week on he water with no outside support. * * * School Bus Yellow "69-72" 88, with a custom "Iron Duke", Off Road in Progress . . . Frame Up . . . Mine, for a change. I'm getting to "old?" . . . will be A-Frame towed by a j^p. AC, comfort and no down time on the way to the trails. The "greatest lady of them all" likes the fun and security of both worlds. Keep the "Romance" Alive . . . Steven L. Meier ROVERS YOU CAN RIDE . Santa Fe . New Mexico Specializing in Complete Frame Up Restorations Engine/Gearbox Conversions and other Options Available e-Mail 102141.3253@Compuserve.com 1.505.438.2475 FAX 1.505.989.7622 ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 23:41:26 -0500 (EST) From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com> Subject: Re: British Invasion in VT Cost is high, I could join a LRO club for that, or get spare fan belts, but it is a time to meet other LR owners and network and see their LRs, and since I am the only LR owner in my town, I think it is worth it. I would think you can also just come, park in the regular lot like any one and wander over to the LR area to chat and look around. Jeff Kessler 1988 Range Rover Newport NH USA 603-863-7883 At 07:31 AM 9/5/96 -0400, you wrote: >At 22:42 96-09-04 -0500, you wrote: >>Cost is $35 and as I was told the goodys they give you is worth at least that. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 29 lines)] > \______/ >mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca <<---- Note new address! ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 1996 21:14:56 -0700 From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net> Subject: Re: Air tools Ned Heite wrote: > :Could one > :set up an air-powered field kit on a Land Rover? Grab an automotive air conditioning compressor from a scrap yard. They will come with an electric clutch and are belt driven. I've just begun converting a Chrysler V-2 piston type compressor for on board duties. Great fun! Cheers, Greg ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 01:36:12 -0500 From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc> Subject: Then there were two On Thu, 5 Sep 1996, source@trinidad.net (Peter Quentrall-Thomas) wrote: >Three fantastic events have recently happened in my life. >A)-I have taken Hercules, my 1968 IIA which I have owned from new, off >roading in the newly formed Trinidad & Tobago Off Road Club. >B)-I have dicovered the InterNet and e-mail >C)-I have dicovered the LR Digest. I'd say you've come to the right place. Not many LROs in the region have - so far. Should be a 1957 SI owner in St. Vincent appearing shortly. Cheers, Allan. Allan Smith Caribbean Natural Resources Institute Vieux Fort St. Lucia, West Indies. Tel +(758) 454 6060 Fax +(758) 454 5188 ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 22:54:00 -0700 From: faurecm@halcyon.com (C. Marin Faure) Subject: Re: Vehicle database >Hello Mr. Faure and thanks for the info, When you get a chance will you >pass along the VIN (or >Chassis Number) to me. This is the primary key for my database. Is your >book an instruction >manual or a novel? Sounds interesting. Is it in >bookstores now? >BTW, for the database do you know the name (location) of the original dealer? The serial number of my 1973 Series III Model 88 is 25901891B. I lived in Hawaii when I bought it, but there was no longer a Land Rover dealer on Oahu in 1973. I ordered my Land Rover over the phone from a dealer in the San Francisco Bay area, I think in Santa Clara. I can't remember the name of the dealer. My book, Flying a Floatplane (Third Edition) is a 260-page, illustrated book on how to fly a floatplane. It is aimed at people who already know how to fly, but who want to obtain a seaplane rating. It first came out in 1985. The third edition, which includes new chapters on flying turbine floatplanes (which is what I fly) and floatplane maintenance, came out this spring, and is carried by aviation supply stores and mail-order stores, primarily. It is published by McGraw-Hill. I have seen it sometimes in the aviation sections of larger bookstores like Barnes & Noble. C. Marin Faure 1973 LR Series III Model 88 1991 RR Vogue SE ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "P Burgers" <PBURGERS@CPLS.WCAPE.GOV.ZA> Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 09:32:55 +0200 Subject: lead free Chevy conversions anybody out there got any technical specs. on converting a Chevy 250 cu. incher & 292 cu. incher to run on lead free fuel. I have one of these the motive power for my SIII. I would need info on oversize valve guides, valve seats etc. as well as timing info Peter Burgers ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk> Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 08:33:47 +0000 Subject: Re: Replacing (Series III) leaf-springs Quoting Adrian Redmond, from 5 Sep 96 > Can one buy Galvanised springs? (In europe? fed-ex charges maybe a > little high considering the weight!)) Does anyone have any experience of > this matter. Are there better alternatives to LR originals - I seek long > working life, good suspension and handling, and a clean, new appearance. > Does this exist? My suggestion: Remove each spring in turn, take it apart and clean each leaf (sand-blast/wire brush/whatever) and then oil each one before each re-assembling. If you can use an extra-sticky oil between each leaf before assembly, you will get superb flexibility. (replace the bushes will also improve handling) After re-assembly, "paint" both sides of each spring with old EP90 oil each week. The oil will keep your springs in good condition and give you excellent handling. ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/> However strong my opinions are, they are mine and no-one elses. ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Brake servo warning lamp Date: Fri, 6 Sep 96 8:39:40 BST > snip > > but removing the vacuum reservoir from the circuit did! Without the [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > I suspected it was a vac leak given the symptoms. > I'll see if any of my manuals have a wiring diagram. The MoD 3/4 ton manual includes this switch in the diagrams (or it does for my 24v version). My switch/light doesn't work either, but found it wasn't wire up. Tried wiring up (coloured wires, were not *quite* what they should be) - still doesn't work. Something to investigate in the future... Is this light/switch an MoD special perhaps? Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: So Called Specialists Date: Fri, 6 Sep 96 8:59:08 BST > *know* have been correctly stored and stock rotated into a vehicle before > attempting to diagnose an electrical fault and from there I wouldn't trust > anything but Lucas branded components. This is not an advert for anyone Did anyone see Top Gear last-night? That second-hand-car-dealer geezer (the one who owns the Stage I - Quentin somebody or other?) was extolling the virtues of Lucas parts like nobody's business. Obviously a yuppy Landy enthusiast! :-) The item was about new Euro regulation regarding aftermarket parts. What's the deal on this? Top Gear were laying it on a bit thick, and I can't see them de facto banning all aftermarket parts somehow... Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 11:09:59 +0000 From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Subject: Re: So Called Specialists >The item was about new Euro regulation regarding aftermarket parts. What's >the deal on this? Top Gear were laying it on a bit thick, and I can't >see them de facto banning all aftermarket parts somehow... Could you elaborate for those of us who didnt see it please? Cheers Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk> Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 11:24:36 +0000 Subject: Re: Top Gear V's the car lobby Quoting Mike Rooth, from 6 Sep 96 > >The item was about new Euro regulation regarding aftermarket parts. > >What's the deal on this? Top Gear were laying it on a bit thick, and I > >can't see them de facto banning all aftermarket parts somehow... > Could you elaborate for those of us who didnt see it please? Quentin Wilson did a report concerning possible new legislation (UK? Brussles?) such that car manufacturers would gain a monopoly on supplying "body panels and fittings" for their vehicles. Places like Autoglass would be put out of business as they would be breaking the monoploy legislation. The two examples given were (stlg= UK pond symbol), from memory: Lucas headlight for Ford Fiesta: stlg24 from an aftermarket dealer, stlg45 from a Ford Agent Mondeo windscreen: stlg108 fitted from Autoglass, stlg180 from Ford dealer. The main complaints were: 1) It's a monopoly 2) The car manufacturers are not making enough profit from car sales, so they want to make more profit from spares - at the drivers expense. This would put the cost of insurance up 3) there would be no market forces to keep the price of parts down 4) old cars would die out as the spares became unavailable 5) manufacturers like Boche, Lucas, etc make the parts for the car manufacturers, so how can the manufacturers demand a monopoly on selling the spares? 6) a whole sector of the business comunity would become illegal overnight, putting thousands of people out of work People who spoke out against the idea were Lloyds Insurance and the AA No car manufacturer spoke for the case. ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/> However strong my opinions are, they are mine and no-one elses. ------------------------------[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: So Called Specialists Date: Fri, 6 Sep 96 11:24:55 BST > >The item was about new Euro regulation regarding aftermarket parts. What's > >the deal on this? Top Gear were laying it on a bit thick, and I can't > >see them de facto banning all aftermarket parts somehow... > Could you elaborate for those of us who didnt see it please? I'm not exactly sure - that's why I was asking! (I was also trying to eat my dinner - and add up a phonebill) Somewhere along the lines, the EC want to somehow restrict aftermarket sales to just the original manufacturers' parts. Eg. If I broke an Escort light, I'd have to buy a Ford unit rather than a Lucas one (using Mr. Quentin's example). This would also affect such things as windscreen replacements and the such. He seemed to thing the whole parts industry would collapse, and unemployment would be huge,etc. The manufacturers say they are doing it so that spare parts are in good nick (we've all heard of dodgy parts breaking). TG argued that this doesn't affect the bulk of body parts - which are sold in suitable condition. He also went on to say that the majoirty of aftermarket parts companies (naming Lucas and Hella as particular examples) produce quality parts anyway. I can't see how such regulations would work - and that was main query. Unless they restricted the production rights for parts for new vehicles? Richard ------------------------------[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960906 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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