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Date: Tue, 03 Sep 1996 06:27:36
From: CarDoctor@gnn.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: Re: 109 Brake bleeding

Hi All,
 In my situation all of the hoses were replaced with the slaves & the rear 
backing plate were upgraded to the newer style.  When clamping off the rear 
hose no pedal is found if it is clamped off at the chassie end.  The fact 
that the brakes don't pump up seems to show that the master if at fault.
   
Rob Davis_Chicago

Failure is not an option
Not on my watch.......

1971 (88)  Treeweaver
1965 (109SW)  OX
1968 (109 three door)  Dad's toy (only the caretaker)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Sep 96 8:09:01 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Rubicon Trail, Transmission Noise, and Mr. Lucas

I guess you understand it all now. The endless repairs, the noise, the 
ungodly seats, the leaks, and  the strange electrical system. 
Now your friends know too. Too bad it cost them 30 grand a pop. I'll bet 
they LOOK real good while engaged in the act of getting stuck or breaking 
things.
Your story is not uncommon. For the last 40-odd years Rovers have been 
quietly going about the business of getting you there and back again.
OK so you wasted your tranny brake. That was your fault for not checking 
that the driver knew what he was doing. Next time you'll know better. 
Small price to pay, but the truck got you home didn't it? Those Toys 
can't make that claim.
Tranny knock may be anything from a bad U-joint to a wasted bearing 
caused by the orange-hot brake.
The lights might be a bad ground. Check for short circuits first, a wire 
may have worn off its insulation.
Your body damage is minimal. You can remove the galvanized cappings and 
the rivets and spot welds associated with that area and using a hammer 
and body dolly, simply knock them back flat. Then pop rivet everything 
back in place.
If they are more or less cosmetic, some choose to leave them as battle 
scars.
 
Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 05:38:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: Vinyl stickers

Hi Bruce!

As I said upon seeing it in Portland, I want one.  It looks terrific and is
a good way to make other LROs aware of The Lists.

Cheers!
John

At 15:11 03.09.96 -0700, Bruce Curtis wrote:
>Hi all, had a racing buddy of mine (who just happens to have a vinyl
>printing machine) make up some reverse vinyl window stickers (i.e. for
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 39 lines)]
>SunSoft, Internet Engineering       http://www.badrc.org/~brutus
>2550 Garcia Ave, MS MPK17-202       (415)786-5147
>Mountain View, CA 94043-1100        FAX:(415)786-5896

------------------------------

From: "Terje Krogdahl" <terje@multix.no>
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 14:37:09 +0200
Subject: Re: The head came off!

Dixon wrote:

> > Speaking of fibre gaskets missing some holes, my engine has a small
> > overheating problem after my rebuild... is there a way to figure out
> > wether I have a gasket with missing holes? No? Thought so.
> 	Apart from removing the head and comparing?  Nope...  Well, maybe.
> 	Was the gasket a genuine one circa a couple years ago in mfg.?

Original, yes, but not old. I guess it's ok. Well, I'll just get some
cooler water for my cooling system :)

TK
1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol

-- 
**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--
Terje Krogdahl              Multix A/S            Phone   +47 2206 2600
E-Mail: terje@multix.no     Lilleakerveien 31     Fax     +47 2206 2626
        support@multix.no   N-0283 OSLO, Norway   Support +47 2206 2628

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Sep 96 09:08:58 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Series III Brakes

>>>>The first press of the pedal applies the brakes after considerable travel. 
If 
I press them a second time they are beautifully firm with no sponginess at 
all......snip.....
>>>>Does anyone have any ideas.

Have you looked at the shoes? It sounds like they are worn. Either that or your 
return springs are on wrong.
 If you can hold them firm then there's nothing wrong with the hydraulic part.

Dave B.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 14:12:49 +0100
From: whastelow@atlas.co.uk (Simon Ward-Hastelow)
Subject: Kenlowe fan fitting question?

I have been GIVEN a Kenlowe fan for my 110 V8 (new and unused) Lucky boy!

but I do not have the relevant fitting instructions.

If someone has instructions and would be willing to lend them to me or fax
a copy, I would be very grateful

thanks

_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_

Simon Ward-Hastelow

Orpington, Kent, U.K.

whastelow@atlas.co.uk

_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 14:12:57 +0100
From: whastelow@atlas.co.uk (Simon Ward-Hastelow)
Subject: thank, was 110 fuel tank question

Thanks to all those who responded to my post regarding a leaking fuel tank
on my 110.

I've ordered a new one after some difficulty and much phoning around, and
will be treating the rust trap before fitting.

Someone may be interested to know that the early V8 110 tank is the same as
the diesel version but the design changed in 1985 to put the fuel pump in
the tank, mine is external.

Somehow this alteration resulted in my tank costing DOUBLE the later version!

but at 120 pounds (inc delivery) it wasn't too bad.

next on the list is leaking swivel pin housing and replacement discs on
front (will probably go to vented)

WILL IT EVER END??!!

see ya

_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_

Simon Ward-Hastelow

Orpington, Kent, U.K.

whastelow@atlas.co.uk

_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 14:12:12 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Series III Brakes

The first press of the pedal applies the brakes after considerable travel.
If
I press them a second time they are beautifully firm with no sponginess at
>all......snip.....
>>>>>Does anyone have any ideas.
Have you looked at the shoes? It sounds like they are worn. Either that or your
return springs are on wrong.
 If you can hold them firm then there's nothing wrong with the hydraulic part.

>Dave B.
How about they just need adjusting?

Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Sep 96 09:19:02 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Rubicon Trail, Transmission Noise, and Mr. Lucas

>>>>Tranny knock may be anything from a bad U-joint to a wasted bearing 
caused by the orange-hot brake.

Probably caused by the brake shoes rubbing against the drum. Make sure that the 
linkage hasn't been jammed into place by a rock. Also you may have broken a 
return spring when you ran it at 60 with the brake on. I did some towing this 
winter and backe dup in low reverse with the brake on. One of the springs gave 
up unbeknownst to me, which resulted in tranny knock that made me think my 
gearbox was exploding. Happened more after a long highway run, where the shoe 
had been rubbing and getting hot, and hence expanding. Removing the entire 
mechanism and placing all the parts in an old bucket, and then bolting the drum 
back on was the perfect cure. 

Cheers

Dave B. 
Artist/Nice Guy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Sep 96 09:25:19 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Series III Brakes

u looked at the shoes? It sounds like they are worn. Either that or your

>>>>How about they just need adjusting?

Mike Rooth

I just have one word for you, Mike...

"hesaidhealreadytriedthatmate"

Dave B.
young whippersnapper

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  4 Sep 96  9:27:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Rubicon Trail, Transmission Noise, and Mr. Lucas

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Sep 1996 09:29:06 EDT
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: 2.25 coolant pipe

Hi all,

Back in the old days when I had a 2.25 petrol lump I was always confused
by a "spare" pipe which ran from the rear of the exhaust manifold side
of the block to nowhere. Actually it curved forwards & sat on the
chassis rail. A few inches short of the rad there was a bevel gear
stuffed in it to seal the end.

The pipe was about 1.5 - 2 inches diameter and filled with coolant. It
stuck out at 90 degrees to the block, a little above the starter motor.

Does anybody have any ideas what it was and if it should have gone
anywhere?

The vehicle is a 1973 series III lightweight, but the engine was the
pale blue shade to indicate a military replacement at some time.

I could never find a sensible explanation for it. There were (are) lots
of round holes in the bulkhead, floor, seat base suggesting pipes
entering the body. Could it be extra heating in an arctic vehicle? It
only had the (useless) lightweight heater in it when I had it. It also
had a few civilian owners, some of whom were quite adventurous, one was
even moderately skilled (I can tell who did which piece of work
depending on the level of bodge!).

Cheers, Steve

Steve Reddock, Xyratex        |  "NEVER QUESTION AN
Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450      |   ENGINEER'S OPINION,
IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P)            |   YOU THUNDERING MORON !"
Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com  |     - Dogbert 1996

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Kenlowe fan fitting question?
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 96 14:35:46 BST

Its the standard fan is it?
The instructions are pretty generic. Eg. mine is 24V 12", but the
instructions cover 12V/24V +earth, -earth, and probably different fan sizes
too.
If they sound okay, can send a p/copy in the post (if I can find them ...).
I ended up having bad engine trouble, and fitting needing doing urgently,
so I ended up with a garage "oh, wire that up too, could you?".

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

PS: A suspiciously similar SIII on the Gurkha Prog. on TV on Beeb2 lastnight.
A bit tidier too, but I tihnk I prefer my hardtop rather than the 
Prince-Phillip-Mobile option...

> I have been GIVEN a Kenlowe fan for my 110 V8 (new and unused) Lucky boy!

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 26 lines)]
> Orpington, Kent, U.K.
> whastelow@atlas.co.uk
> _*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_*_

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 14:36:01 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re[2]: Series III Brakes

>>>>>How about they just need adjusting?
>Mike Rooth
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>I just have one word for you, Mike...
>"hesaidhealreadytriedthatmate"
Meandmybiggob.Just goes to show you should never jump in on the first
day back off leave.......

>young whippersnapper
Yeah...All fifty-four years of whippersnapper.Nice thought,though:-)
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 09:41:58 -0100
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Subject: Air Tools?

A gadget-freak acquaintance was helping me rebuild the winch mount on my 88
the other day. I had bought a piece of heavyweight angle, and wasn't
looking forward to hacksawing it. Instead, we went over to his house, where
the whole shop is run on compressed air. I was familiar with air-powered
wrenches and air hammers that the Amish carpenters use, but this fellow was
a complete compressed-air nut. He used an air-driven cutoff saw on my angle
iron, and showed me a range of other air tools. Got me thinking. Could one
set up an air-powered field kit on a Land Rover? Air-driven chain saws?
Air-driven winches? Air-driven trash pumps? PTO-driven compressors? 12v
compressors? I know you can store compressed air for field use, but it has
a finite life. Any experiences?

 _______
 |___|__\__==
 | _ |  |  --]   Ned Heite, Camden, DE 19934        <DARWIN><
 =(O)-----(O)=                                        "   "

                             

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <WI.Center.for.Dairy.Research@calshp.cals.wisc.edu>
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 08:54:57 -6
Subject: Re: Driveshaft phase

> Theoretically, then, you could put a Cardan type joint on both shafts and it 
> wouldn't make a difference what the input or output angles are, no?
Even then, I think there would be limits

>  Seems thats 
> why there is one on the front of the Stage One, couldn't get the axle and front 
> output to line up properly.
But yes, that's why they are used. There is an optimal range for the 
angle that you want a regular LR type driveshaft to operate in.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 14:50:47 +0000
Subject: Series III Brakes

>My 109 Series III Station Wagon has brakes (non-servo, single system)
>that are driving me crazy! The first press of the pedal applies the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>to no effect. My next obvious step is the master cylinder, a step I'm
> hoping to avoid. Does anyone have any ideas.

This sounds EXACTLY lik the problem I had when teh garage put the 
shoe springs on wrong - see my earlier post.

Check the springs are on as per manual. Putting em on so both springs 
went between both shoes (normal in most other vehicles) produced 
just what you describe!

------------------------------

From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 15:08:49 +0000
Subject: Re: Series III Brakes

Quoting Andy Woodward, from  4 Sep 96

> >My 109 Series III Station Wagon has brakes (non-servo, single system)
> >that are driving me crazy! The first press of the pedal applies the...
Three things:

1) are the brake shoes on the right-way round?
2) is one brake contaminated with oil?

My 109 rear shoes are springed as follows:

	top spring: -||||---------||||-
	sits on the outermost holes, *behind* the shoes and below the cylinder

	bottom spring: ---||||||||||||||||||||||||---
	sits on the upper/outermost holes, *behind* the shoes and above the pivot 
point.

As you said, clamping the rear flexihose gave good, solid brakes. With 
this in mind, how can the master-cylinder be at fault?

I replaced the wheel-cylinders and didn't cure the problem.
I bleed 1 liter of fluid through the system and didn't cure the problem.
I adjusted the brakes for hours and couldn't cure the problem.

I put on an old set of brake shoes & bingo!  My guess is the problem lies 
with contaminated shoes!

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

However strong my opinions are, they are mine and no-one elses.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Sep 96 10:17:54 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Replacing bushes ala LRW

I have to agree with Dave, the Green Truck sounds and rides great.  

That's "Green Car"...

Thanks for the compliments. I couldn't have doen it (at least not so quickly) 
without the help of Colonel Smith and several others -hey Bill- and most of all 
my good friend John who is 72 and lives across thge street from the garage. John
was an airplane mechanic during WWII, and proved to be a valuable helper in the 
shop. He always knew what tool to use to do some awkward job that I didn't have 
the "real" tool for, like using a seal puller to remove the 3rd gear snap ring 
on the gearbox mainshaft. It was sometimes frustrating when he couldn't hear me 
or got in the way, but all ni all he made being stuck in the garage for the 
entire summer at least bearable. I told him I'd take him up to College PArk 
airport to sse some of the old planes...

>>>>I had the privilege
 (....oh, please.:-)....)
>>>>of helping Dave get things mostly buttoned up on
Saturday.  Dave has done a great job of getting a truck back together that
was "vandalized" by five of us in April.

Buggers really mixed up the old bolts, too...:-)

>>>>  I would have apprehension in doing
a frame over by myself, where I knew where everything came off and was
supposed to go back on.

Apprehension???!!!
Nah. I would say it was more like sheer mortification...watching itgo to pices 
in a matter of hours...

>>>>My hat's off to ya Dave.

Tanks! The real test is to see how long it lasts...shhhh!

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  4 Sep 96 11:07:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Series III Brakes

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 10:09:38 -0500 (CDT)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: Bye-bye, VWs! (fwd)

if i hadn't found land rovers first, i would be a breadloaf
owner.  with a good editor, the following post could be
changed from vw to lr.  hope this cross-posting doesn't offend anyone
cause i think it is appropriate and certainly fits...

Sincerely,

Ray Harder 

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 14:58:11 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Joseph F. Fournier II" <jfourni@COMP.UARK.EDU>
Cc: jwalker@UA1VM.UA.EDU
Subject: Bye-bye, VWs!

That's it! I've had it! I'm through with volkswagens for good!  I've sold
the '71! (Gave the guy a good deal, too!) I'm finished with these
Volkswagens! They're supposed to be so economical and sensible, but we all
spend our weekends pampering them...tweaking this, adjusting that,
painting this, looking for this part or that. "Oh man! I've just GOT to
have that $300 AM radio! And those semaphores! Hey, don't look at me like
that; I'll get something that uses semaphores someday..."

You're all a bunch of VW addicts. You know your m-codes by heart. You can
rattle off the toll-free numbers of parts dealers in four or five states.
You know the location of every part on your bus. You can spot an idle
adjustment screw in a box of miscellaneous parts from 8 feet away...and
you can tell if it's still good by looking at it.

You go slowly up hills and wear heavy clothes to keep warm in the winter. 
I know some of you have gas heaters, but even those of you who do will
crawl under your bus in the snow to check your valves (and now you're
thinking "but I heard a bad noise in there").  Face it, man!  You're
junkies.  You couldn't quit even if you wanted to!  Your bus is the monkey
on your back---hmmm...maybe that's why so many of you like that druggie
music. You've all got a vdubaddiction! 

Not me! I CAN QUIT ANYTIME I WANT TO. I don't NEED VWs. I don't have to
succumb to the peer pressure. I'm my own man! I can drive a Buick with
pride. There! I said it: BUICK! Buick! buick.

Come to think of it, you all need someone like me around to keep you from
killing yourselves with this insane addition! Look at what almost happened
to Bob Hufford. "I can do it, man. Just one more bus. Okay, so a cherry
23-window deluxe...but just one, man." All this and THE MAN is already
breathin' down his back! NO INOPERABLE VEHICLES, Bob!

You guys really DO need help. Okay, I'll go out slowly. I'll go ahead and
pick up that '67 camper I looked at last Friday. But I'm doing it for you
guys. I don't *need* this bus. I can quit *anytime* I want to. I'm not an
addict! You guys, you need help, though. 

Hey, bustender, pass me that 13mm wrench. 8) Joe

P.S. I know where there's a '62 Sundial camper for $400 (maybe $350) if
     anyone needs a fix.

------------------------------

From: "Niel J. P. Fagan" <NF@orc.soton.ac.uk>
Date:          Wed, 4 Sep 1996 15:59:50 GMT
Subject:       Re: NO BRAKES

Have a look (as already suggested) at the top return spring, it 
should be on ONE shoe (leading) and a post on the back plate.
If on both it pulls the trailing shoe in (without adjuster to hold it 
out) thus no brakes. (This is for SINGLE double ended cylinder 
brakes, NOT twin cylinder double leading with two adjuster types).

RAV4 as described by my Naval commander friend, (a suzuki 410 driver 
no less) a bloody girlys car, (suitable for cat lovers perhaps ;-) .

Rgds Niel

Views expressed are personal and not those of the 
University, unless otherwise & expressly stated.

------------------------------

From: "Neil Jason Steinhagen" <njsteinh@eos.ncsu.edu>
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 12:05:56 -0400
Subject: Rear Wheels/tires

After doing much research for a landy (i.e. spending many late nights looking
at catalogs and Land Rover World Magazine while my wife tells me to put that
'stupid' magazine down), I have noticed that on some early SIIA's and SIII the
rear wheels look like mail J**p with the wheels indented about 6 inches,
(please forgive me for the comparison) while others fill the wheel well very
well.

Is this simply due to wheel/tire combinations, or are the axle lengths
different.  I much more prefer the filled look, buy don't want to sacrifice
wheel articulation.

And I loved the Rubicon story.  Would've loved to see the Jeeper's faces!  My
brother in-law swears that his '94 Cherokee could run circles around a landy.
 I can't wait to get mine!

Thanks a bunch for the expert knowledge!

Neil Steinhagen

-- 
Neil Jason Steinhagen

------------------------------

From: "Mugele, Gerry" <Gerry.Mugele@wellsfargo.com>
Subject: Re: Report from Portland
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 96 09:23:00 PDT

Ben says:

> '95 Defender 90 Stn Wgn    4
showed up at Portland.

True...
 Ed:  the Blue SW with the Safari Guard bumpers.
Michael McKeag's
Stella and Peat (the two of them looking too much alike for Stephanie's 
tastes)

And then Sunday morning over at the 'off road course' I talked to Jeffrey 
Wong and saw his white D90 SW.  Sorry Ben, I don't recall the number but it 
was in the high 400s.  He bought it in March.

So we had 1% of 'em there...

Gerry
*** Don't worry about temptation, as you grow older, it starts avoiding you.
**************************************************************
_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
_/ Gerry Mugele     (Mugeleg@wellsfargo.com)    _/
_/ Glen Ellen, California     (415) 477-3952    _/
_/ "Gooey" '72 SIII 88                          _/
_/ "Peat"  '95 D90 SW (364/500)                 _/
_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
**************************************************************

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <WI.Center.for.Dairy.Research@calshp.cals.wisc.edu>
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 13:02:16 -6
Subject: 88 shocks

I need to get some shocks for the front of my 88. I have Rancho's on 
the rear and they seem to have been fine. Does anyone know if the 
shocks Rancho makes for the 88 front are available in the US? And if 
they aren't, what will fit? I seem to recall that the Toyoto truck 
shocks would, but I can't remember for sure, or the PN.
Any other heavy duty shock recommendations?

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Sep 1996 14:54:34 -0500
From: "Benjamin G. Newman,MD" <medone@iag.net>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Fellow LROs:

I am having a significant problem with my 1966 NADA wagon. I have 
recently had my neighbor replace the original booster pump that had 
gone out of whack. I got a rebuilt Bendix booster from Robert Davis 
with a rebuilt master cylinder, brake shoes, caliber and the 
associated pipes. Though this is an NADA wagon, I have removed the 
6-cylinder engine an have replaced it with a Turner rebuilt 4-cylinder 
2.5 liter petrol. However, the braking system is still the original.

The problem that we are having is, for some reason, the brake fluid 
relief mechanism does not work. After a few minutes of running the 
vehicle, the brake fluid warms up, the pedal becomes stiff because of 
the expansion of the brake fluid, and the wheels, upon touching them 
after a few braking attempts, get too hot to touch with the naked 
hand. Despite repeated adjustments and bleeding the system, nothing 
seems to help. My mechanic friend contacted Mr. Davis, who said that 
this braking mechanism does not work well sometimes because of water 
getting into the booster pump..

I am wondering if someone could recommend some otpions here because, 
at present, my intentions would be just to bypass the booster system 
-- hopefully Mr. Davis will take it back -- and just not have a 
booster system which would (as I understand it) only make the pedal 
pressure requirement a little higher, but would not effect the safety 
of the braking process.

As always, I would be most appreciative to hear comments of 
fellow-Rover owners.

Benjamin G. Newman, M.D.

------------------------------

From: Darrell.Fremont@uni.edu
Date: Wed, 04 Sep 1996 14:16:23 -0600 (cst)
Subject: 88 shocks reply

     i got my ranchos through western auto. took a week to order in. 
     they work great.
     
     darrell fremont
     73 88sw "peggy"
     http://www.uni.edu/cet/STAFF/Fremont

------------------------------

From: Inkornoink@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 15:58:23 -0400
Subject: Re: BRITISH CAR SHOW -- ILLINOIS  ??

is there a british car event in northern illionis this weekend?

if you know, can you please e-mail me details?

thanks in advance,

Hank Gregory
1990 RRC
1966 109 SW

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Sep 96 20:05:47 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: 3 Day off-road trip 

All, 

I have been itching for a while to do a 2-3 day trip into the wilds of upstate 
New Hampshire / Vermont. I have yet to really plan something, but I have been 
studying some maps and there are a ton of routes up there. My neighbour is 
from that area (Lancaster) and he knows of miles of routes that could be used. 

I would like to do a long weekend trip Friday evening to Sunday PM, camping 
out, campfire type stuff.  

Is there anyone out there up for such a trip ???? 

Mark   

------------------------------

From: Gregspitz@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 16:21:02 -0400
Subject: Re: BRITISH CAR SHOW -- ILLINOIS ??

British Car Festival on Sun. Sept 8 and Oakton Community College at the Des
Plaines Campus.    9-4...come early for registration. For more info call the
British Car Union 847-885-7789.  Reg fee is $15.  I will be there with MY
DFNDR...1995 Black D90.

------------------------------

From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 15:02:03 -0500
Subject: Re:  88 shocks

Rancho RS5000s are available in the US for LRs. i have a full set all the way
around on mine.

part #s are 5163 for the front for 88s.

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <WI.Center.for.Dairy.Research@calshp.cals.wisc.edu>
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 15:48:19 -6
Subject: Re: 88 shocks reply

>      i got my ranchos through western auto. took a week to order in. 
>      they work great.

What are the part numbers for the front?

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <WI.Center.for.Dairy.Research@calshp.cals.wisc.edu>
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 15:47:32 -6
Subject: Re: BRITISH CAR SHOW -- ILLINOIS  ??

Anyone else besides me going from the Madison - Milwaukee area?

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: GNBull3@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 17:01:23 -0400
Subject: Re: 2.25 coolant pipe

>Back in the old days when I had a 2.25 petrol lump I was >always confused
>by a "spare" pipe which ran from the rear of the exhaust >manifold side
>of the block to nowhere. Actually it curved forwards & sat on >the
>chassis rail. A few inches short of the rad there was a bevel >gear
>stuffed in it to seal the end.

Sounds like someone attached a hose or pipe to block coolant drain tap, which
sits behind the manifold. Is the tap drain still in place, i.e. the little
valve you open and close to let the fluid out of the block. It's kind of a
bear to get at and spills anti freeze all over the place so maybe somebody
just ran a line from the tap to a more convenient location. Just an idea. 

George Bull
61 SII 109 SW

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 17:03:27 -0400
Subject: Re: riv-nut quandary...

David Mercer suggests:
>Take a bolt the same size as the riv-nut, with a nut screwed on the bolt =
>insert the bolt in to the riv-nut screwing it in so thread is just =
>coming out the back, tighten the nut up to the riv-nut put a socket or =
>wrench on the bolt, and a wrench on the nut, turn the nut clockwise that =
>should make the riv-nut compress. good luck!

Tried that before and the one problem is the rivnut may turn with the nut. To
avoid this put either a one size larger nut with threads drilled to clear
bolt, or a length of metal with clearnance hole for bolt between nut and
riv-nut. Then with one of three hands hold this nut/metal piece while also
holding bolt and tightening nut.

David Cockey

------------------------------

From: kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 17:04:03 -0700
Subject: smog check II and LRs

Hopefully good news to allay many of your concerns. I just got off
the phone with the Smog Check folks here in California after a long
chat with a fine person about the affects of Smog Check II.

Vehicles must only meet the emissions requirements for the specific
engine model and year. All of the engine parts related to emissions
must be original equipment or optionally available or have a
certification from the ARB (or some other body). Being a 1966
import my new 109 need only have a PCV system. It only needs to
meet the 1966 standards.

For engine swaps, the replacement engine must be of the same year
or later and has the same requirements for components as above:
what was available for the model year of the engine.

It is not possible to put alternative components on even if the
tailpipe emissions are better than the engine model/year
requirements. He agrees this is most likely political as it doesn't
make any sense whatsoever.

The hipe about gross polluters and confiscation/crushing is truly
hipe. He has never heard of a confiscation for emissions reasons
and supposedly, a new bill has been passed which overrides any
wording to suggest this kind of  action.

Gross polluters are gross polluters for the engine and year in
question. So I could have a new 95 engine which doesn't meet the 95
emissions standards and it would be a gross polluter even if the
actual output is considerably less than a 66 engine. Even though a
66 is putting out a lot of emissions, if it is under the gross
polluter level for 66 it is ok.

I think this is probably good news for those of us in California
who had concerns about what SCII really meant. The truly
unfortunate part is that we can't improve the emissions for a
particular engine by putting an "illegal" part on such as fuel
injection.

-- 
Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 22:23:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Bye-bye, VWs! (fwd)

Hmmmmmm, Ray, do you think you could help me find that $350 bus. Its been a
long time between type IIs, I need a break from the Rovers. I know the S3's
not done yet, but are any of them ever really <done>?? Even EvanD103 still
needs bits for his 88....

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 19:37:58 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: non-LR /Guinness steak pie

Sorry for the non-Land Rover posting

I'm looking for a good recipe for Guinness steak pie.  I had it a few times
on my recent UK trip & liked it.  There is something in it beyond
overcooked steak and Guinness under a pie crust.

Anyone have a good recipe to share?????

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 22:42:45 -0500 (EST)
From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com>
Subject: British Invasion in VT

On 31 Aug 96 info about contact persons was posted to the LRO list by
Stephen  Margolisfor about the British Invasion in Stowe VT on 20-22 Sept 96.  

I called for info today and learned that they are expecting 550 to 600
British vehicles there and the deadline for registering to park/display your
British auto is now 10 Sept 96 (was the 1st).

Cost is $35 and as I was told the goodys they give you is worth at least that.

Manufacturers attending include LRNA, Jaguar and RR (as in Rolls Royce).

Stephen's message states "Among the classes of vehicles are Class R: Land
Rover, and Class S: Land Rover and Range Rover (Current Series).

For more information, contact one of the event coordinators:
Michael Gaetano, "Ravenwood," 6 Pendulum Place, Hopkinton, MA 07148-2658
(508) 435-8007 (home) or (617) 237-4950 (work) mailto:maainc@world.std.com
or
Christopher Francis, c/o Ye Olde England Inne, The Mountain Road, Stowe, VT
05672 (802) 253-2106."

BTW, I spoke with Chris Francis who is on his 2nd Range Rover, a 4.0SE.

Jeff Kessler
1988 Range Rover
Newport NH USA   603-863-7883

------------------------------

From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: thank, was 110 fuel tank question
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 08:58:20 +-200

Simon Ward-Hastelow[SMTP:whastelow@atlas.co.uk] wrote:

Someone may be interested to know that the early V8 110 tank is the same as
the diesel version but the design changed in 1985 to put the fuel pump in
the tank, mine is external.

Wrong, I have also mounted a diesel tank instead of the 
petrol, but I ordered a petrol. It works, but the 
difference is the air-out that is connected to the filler 
cap. On the petrol it is in the middle of the tanktop, on 
the diesel it is in the right side. This gives a strange 
behavior in my 110", when I fill the tank 100%, petrol is 
sendt out in the top of the filler stud.

Best regards
Bent Boehlers

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Al and Steel
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 96 8:46:53 BST

Al is more reactive than Fe.

>From what I remember, the lumps of Zn (also more reactive than Fe) are put
on boats below the water line, so that the Zn corrodes rather than the Fe.

K Na Ca Mg Al Zn Fe Pb H etc.

(KNA-CA-My Granny At London Zoo Not FEeling ********)

Richard

> *** Resending note of 04/09/96 11:04
> Adny asked:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)]
> University of Dundee. Tel +44 (0)1382 344227  Fax +44 (0)1382 322318
> ****************************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: 2.25 coolant pipe
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 96 8:56:59 BST

> Sounds like someone attached a hose or pipe to block coolant drain tap, which
> sits behind the manifold. Is the tap drain still in place, i.e. the little
> valve you open and close to let the fluid out of the block. It's kind of a
> bear to get at and spills anti freeze all over the place so maybe somebody

Anti-freeze? You've got anti-freeze?   LuXURY!!!    :-)
Yes, its nasty to get at - just below the exhaust manifold, so with a hot
engine...
Mine's getting a bit bu***red - probably the armoury of tools myself and the
PO used to get it out, so I've just gone and ordered a replacement.
L4 for a little bit of brass!

I also have a hose that comes out of the cylinder head, at the rear, on the
manifold side. This goes to the heater. I've just had to replace that hose.

Richard   (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)
PS:  When I get my temp. gauges sorted, and the drain tap replaced, I
*will* have anti-freeze in there!

------------------------------

From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: V8 - Engine
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 09:37:33 +0930 (CST)

Dieter Bothe:

> 1. I find in the database of a petrol-station that the V8 engines runs with 
> "normal" 91 octane fuel unleaded. Can anybody confirm this?

This has been covered here before.  ISTR that the 8.13 CR motor will happily 
run mid 80's octane fuel.  As for using unleaded...  Well I and others 
do, but the conventional wisdom is that it wasnt until the mid - late 80's 
that rover got the metalurgy right, and that prior to this time 
accelerated wear when using unleaded is likely (and frequently observed) 

> 2. At the moment our baby takes around 20 litres of fuel per 100 km.
This seems to  be much, because she doesn't grow any more. What
experiences made other  V8-Parents? 

Sorry thats about the norm for mine too, frequently worse,  I have 
friends with a new motor who are reporting ~ 15 - 16L/100K on long runs.

> 3. I know there have been some discussion, but maybe somebody could give me a 
> summerize of how to reduce this extensive fuel-consuming (remember in 
> Germany 1 litre fuel costs about 1$) 
 
I sympathise, my normal daily commute uses up ~ 19% of my pre tax income 
The price we pay I guess. :-(

Have you removed the restrictors behind the Carbs ?  This is supposed to 
help.

Is the cam OK, they have a tendancy to chew cams and lifters (Mine are 
totally US :-(

Otherwise its  a $$$'s thing, Higher compression seems to helps a lot 
(D110, with the same engine/g/box set-up but the 9.35 CR motor regularly get 
15 - 16 L/100K)  This is the motor in my friends stage 1.

You can play with cams etc I guess.

If the motor is in good condition (unlike mine) a good dyno (rolling 
road) tune including carb adjustment would probably be the first line of 
attack. 

Cheers
-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Diffs
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 12:45:16 +0930 (CST)

Steve Rochna asks:
> Has anybody had any experience with positive locking diffs of detroit 
> lockers?  After a few calls I talked to a company that said they had 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> stories, words of wisdom, etc...
> Thanks.  Steve Rochna '72 SIII 88 

1st point, on an 88" no way. the manual for the original series 1 detroit 
locker (no-spin) did not recomend fitment to any vehicle with a wheelbase 
less than 110". 

Unless the ones you are talking about are *much* more progressive, the 
steering effect will be horrific.  a series 1 locker is quite noticable 
in a 109 and makes the vehicle very twitchy as axles cam in and out.

The new positive locking diffs may be a lot better, but make sure you get 
a "dissatisfaction" guarantee in case the 88" becomes undrivable.

  
2nd point.  With an 88" you would need to be *very* gentle on the 
throttle as the ratcheting action is hard on axles splines and flanges., 
i've seen a  salisbury axle snapped cleanly on a locker equiped vehicle 
(the owner was hard on the gas leaving a slippery road side (lots of 
wheel spin) and  the axle snapped when it made contact with the tarmac 
(couldnt dump  torque to the other axle).  the splines and flanges 
certainly get a harder time with a locker.

On a stock rover diff, which after all is not renowned for its 
un-breakability, you would want to keep all these things in the back of 
your mind when driving.

On the plus side a locker does inspire confidence once you get used to 
the handling quirks (in a 109 at least) and makes rock-crawling hill 
climbing much nicer, they also make side hills a bit scarier.

Of course this is just my opinion, and may be purely fanciful, as always 
YMMV.

cheers

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

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