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msgSender linesSubject
1 Lloyd Allison [lloyd@cs.15Universals phase
2 EvanD103@aol.com 26Re: Ser III plastic dash
3 charles wolfe [cwolfe@d.14bulkhead and 109 safari roof available
4 "Gene Sparks" [galleryg@59Report from Portland
5 Mike Jasper [jasperm@iqu46[not specified]
6 David Rosenbaum [rosenba31Re: Couple of D90 questions
7 David Olley at New Conce222.5 L TORQUE SETTINGS
8 David Olley at New Conce18About the Breaks
9 bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bo18GM HEI ignition
10 Wdcockey@aol.com 29Replacing bushes ala LRW
11 Wdcockey@aol.com 20Re: 50th Anniversary When????
12 Roger Sinasohn [sinasohn24Re: Series Database
13 lopezba@atnet.at 28Re: Brakes
14 lopezba@atnet.at 17Re: 1998 50th anniversary
15 "John C. White, III" [jc16Re: Report from Portland
16 Solihull@aol.com 15Re: 2.5 L TORQUE SETTINGS
17 Greg Moore [gmoore@islan11fiberglass springs
18 ericz@cloud9.net 19Driveshafts
19 "Stefan R. Jacob" [1000422Re: steering box rebuild (reaming)
20 GNBull3@aol.com 29Re: Replacing bushes ala LRW
21 Wdcockey@aol.com 28Re: Driveshafts
22 rover@pinn.net (Alexande26Spin-on oil filters
23 CarDoctor@gnn.com (Rober34109 Brake bleeding.
24 Blair Gillespie [Gillesp31towing
25 Rob Dennis [73363.427@Co31towing
26 johnsona@com.usq.edu.au 46Series 1. 2 litre Questions
27 ericz@cloud9.net 13Re: towing
28 m.belik@uws.edu.au (Miro28Re: Back Breaks
29 bcotton@lia.co.za (Brian19SIII sil panel and "I'm back"
30 bcotton@lia.co.za (Brian11SIII sil panel and "I'm back"
31 m.belik@uws.edu.au (Miro31The locks on SIII
32 Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-m29Re: The locks on SIII
33 bcotton@lia.co.za (Brian35LROC of SA
34 bcotton@lia.co.za (Brian35LROC of SA
35 "Mr Ian Stuart" [Ian.Stu23Re: Replacing bushes ala LRW
36 "Huub Pennings" [penning15 Re: Can of Worms
37 Benjamin Allan Smith [be120[not specified]
38 Benjamin Allan Smith [be13[not specified]


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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 23:12:46 +1000 (EST)
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: Universals phase

there is a Java applet to calculate the variation
in angular displacement twixt in and out shafts
for various phase and deflection angles at:
   <URL:http://www.sofcom.com.au/4WD/A.hints/Universals.html>

Can anyone explain to me this funny business on (some) Range Rovers
about being deliberately not in phase?  I've heard several theories,
none absolutely convincing.

Lloyd

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From: EvanD103@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 09:42:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Ser III plastic dash

Adrian asked about recovering his plastic dash sill panels...

Not quite sure what you mean by sill panels - the lower dash or fascia paded
panels perhaps?  Mine were in good shape, but the dash top (crash pad) was
cracked in several places.  I did recover that with pretty good success.
 Peeling off the petrified old vinyl was the hardest part.  It was then a
matter of cutting out the deteriorated foam beneath the areas where the vinyl
covering had cracked.  Expanding insulating foam was then sprayed into the
inlarged cracks.  It was allowed to expand and dry overnight, then trimmed
and sanded down like body filler on a fender.  Aerosal trim adhesive was
sprayed on and new vinyl (from the neigborhood fabric store) was stretched
on. Had to hunt a while to get vinyl with the proper hue/gloss/grain.   Note
that the vinyl stretches in only one direction, so have it aligned properly
to allow the stretch to follow the curve of the dash.  The plastic end caps
screw on to cover the only rough looking/creased parts of the exercise.  It
ended up looking pretty good for something done in my garage.
  erik
Erik van Dyck
Stone Mountain, Georgia
'73 Ser. III 88"

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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 08:53:39 -0500 (CDT)
From: charles wolfe <cwolfe@d.umn.edu>
Subject: bulkhead and 109 safari roof available

I have a rebuilt bulkhead and a 109 safari roof available.

cwolfe

*********************************************************************

C. R. Wolfe M.D.				Emergency Medicine
Setters & Grouse				Duluth Clinic
New Independence, MN				Duluth, MN

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From: "Gene Sparks" <galleryg@techline.com>
Subject: Report from Portland
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 07:36:37 -0700

For those of you that did not attend, this is just a brief overview of the
ABFM in Portland. ROVERS, ROVERS, ROVERS. There were about 50 rovers in
attendance with a pleasant variety. Mostly series vehicles in all flavors
and in all states of repair, with a nice spattering of D90's, Discos and
Range Rovers. There was also a bevy of awesome Dormobiles, 1 Lightweight
and a early model RR swamp buggy that had seen some very hard use (every
body panel dented and bent) Nice to get a preview of what our plushmobiles
will look like in 20 years. A couple of the Discos had the Safari Gard
front bumpers and got lots of oohs and aahs and there was a D90 with a
Mantec snorkel kit. Gordon's Camo Hybrid Coil Sprung Series Showed of it's
impressive articulation by backing one of his rear tires up a stack of 3
spare tires with his trailer attached!

I'd like to say that is was very nice to finally meet many of the frequent
posters to lists and be able to associate faces with names. Lot's of
valuable info available on virtually any Rover subject from the many of
Rover Guru's in attendance. This was definitely a slice of Rover heaven.
Steve from BritPac was there as well as Greg from Safari Gard and had a
nice Kiosk set up with plenty of "can't live without Rover goodies"

It seemed to me that the Rovers were the hit of the show (was there any
doubt). I wandered around to the other areas for the Jags, MGs, Lotus,
Coopers etc. and noticed that they were inhabited mostly by there own but
in the Rover camp there were visitors from all of the other cliques. I
overheard one of the Judges from the Host club say "I've never seen so many
Rovers in one place before. Used to be every year just a handful would show
up. Nice to see them finally make a good showing."

Just a note about the organization of the show, it seems that the Host club
doesn't know the difference between the Classes of Rovers. Many of them
were classed in the wrong groups for judging (88's mixed w/109's etc.) Not
that anyone seemed to care. At the Award ceremony (yawn) over half of the
Rover winners didn't pick-up there winning plates.

The BBQ had good food but did not deliver on the cocktails that were
supposed to be included so it was not a real good value at $15 a head. They
had a raffle with plenty of good prizes and some not so great ones (Monkey
Gland Sauce anyone?) John White must have paid off the ticket drawers cause
he won twice (do the pearls fit John?).

The off road jungle course wasn't very challenging but was worth a ride
anyway. LR Portland closed off the mud pit because one of their drivers (a
woman salesperson) got a new Range Rover stuck in the mud   after stopping
in the middle of the pit. I won't make any further comments on this for
obvious reasons.

BTW I Promised that I would post to the List(s) the winner of the drawing
for the Free Rhino Gear differential protector. And the winner is (drum
role) Robert Watson of Washington. Congratulations Bob!!! E-mail me to
arrange delivery of your prize.

Gene
USS Disco

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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 96 09:46 EST
Subject: Land rover Virgin seeking info.
From: Mike Jasper <jasperm@iquest.net>

This may duplicate a forwarded post if so I apologize.

I live in Indianapolis and am in the process of considering a new 
vehicle.  I currently have a Jeep Cherokee Larado 1988 w/150,000 miles +. 
 It has been an excellent vehicle.  Recently I have had some problems and 
although I have everything in hand now it has caused me to feel I need to 
be finding something that wont strand me.  I am in business for myself 
and all I feel I need is my Health, my Macintosh and the most versitale, 
reliable, unstopable transportation I can find.

It was my intention to buy a new Grand Cherokee because of my good 
experience w/the current one but I want a manual 5 speed transmission and 
Chrysler has determined that if I want the Grand Cherokee I can't have 
one.  This and the general BS I went through this last time in the 
dealerships service department has caused me to take a look around and 
the Discovery seems to be of great potential.  I have gone to the local 
dealer and they have steered me to a 1996 SE7 (7,500 miles) which they 
have taken as a trade.  It seems to have more stuff on it than I need but 
they are telling me 1 that they are offering me a tremendous deal 
($32,900 for a "$40,000 car) and 2 that only about 8% of Land rovers come 
with a manual transmission so I need to take what I can get.  (these are 
my words not theirs.)

So my questions:

This doesn't seem all that great a deal on essentially a used car.  I 
would have been more interested @ say $28,500 am I being unreasonable in 
value here?! 

How much more difficult is it going to be if I want a new one that is 
just the basic model w/5 speed really?!

I took a friend who is originally from NZ w/me,  he has done some 
follow-up with friends and there seems to be this vague consensus that 
there are some problems with the longevity of the retooled Buick power 
plant.  Is this true.  Being and indy 500 fan I have watched alot of 
Buicks go fast but not last so it does worry me.

Well enough for now.  Thanking you in Advance for any feedback you feel 
like giving me.

Mike

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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 08:15:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Couple of D90 questions

On Thu, 29 Aug 1996, Lucas Andres Cascardo wrote:
> Hello all,
> 1.  On my D90 station wagon I have a trailer wiring plug that has 7
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> I correct?  If so is one pin specifically dedicated to the parking
> lights (which one)?

Dear Lucas:
I connected a "flat four" trailer harness to my '94 D90 a couple of years
ago - so I'm a little foggy on the details, but the PURPLE wire is Hot
regardless of light selection (according to manual, connects to terminal
post of starter solenoid via a 20A fuse in the dash box and a 60A fuse in
the main box).
According to my manual other wires are as follows:
Red/Black: Tail Lights
Green: Reverse (not used with flat 4-pin)
Green/Purple: Stop
Green/White: RH Indicator
Green/Red: LH Indicator
Purple: Trailer Feed (not used with flat 4-pin)
Black: Ground

I don't know if this changed for the '95s or the SWs.

Best wishes,
David R.

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Date: Mon, 02 Sep 1996 16:19:35 +0100
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: 2.5 L TORQUE SETTINGS

Can someone please tell me whether the torque settings for the Main and 
Big end bearing cap bolts of a 2.5 litre 4 cyl petrol Land Rover engine 
are the same as for the 2.25 l engine.

If not, could you tell me what they should be. Then I can get this 
engine screwed back together again.

Thanks

-- 
David Olley
...............................................................
New Concept
PO Box 61, Winchester, SO23 0HA, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
...............................................................

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Date: Mon, 02 Sep 1996 16:43:16 +0100
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: About the Breaks

> When I put the springs on to theholes that make the springs strech the 
> least the shoes fall off, when I put them onto the next set of holes, the 
> shoes are sprung too tight and ptotrude outwards. WHAT am I doing wrong.

Could it be that you are putting the springs on the front of the 
brake shoes? This would make them spring outwards. The springs go behind 
the shoes and should be just tensioned when seated. I can't remember which 
holes the springs go in, but if you lay the shoes flat on the ground in the 
approximate position they will adopt, it should become apparent. If you 
have them in the wrong holes, they will make contact with the hydraulic 
cylinder or backplate.

Hope this helps.

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From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Subject: GM HEI ignition
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 08:43:55 -0700

Hi,
A few weeks ago someone posted about modifying a GM hei distributor to fit
his 2.25 petrol.Since I've done it also, I would like to compare notes.
I lost the original posting, and wonder if he is listening??
Answer me direct if you like.

Bob Bernard
 __________________________________________________
|>>>>>>>>>>>  bobnsueb@maxinet.com   <<<<<<<<<<<<<<|
|Bob and Sue Bernard,  Paradise, CA,  916-877-5656 |  
|'69 88 SW Sherman, '60 88 P/U Stubby, '51 80 Nelly|
|__________________________________________________| 

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From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 13:56:22 -0400
Subject: Replacing bushes ala LRW

In a message dated 96-09-01 19:15:00 EDT, you write:

>I am about to do the chassis bushes on my 88.  I suspect I will use a 
>threaded rod with a nut on the back and a deep socket on the front and 
>using another nut, draw the bush out into the deep socket.  Has anyone 
>found a better way to do this.

No personal experience.

Land Rover World magazine, Sept '96 pp 124-125 has an article by John Smith
on replacing springs and bushes. Recommendation for removing bushes is to
drill the length of the rubber in 6 to 8 places; put bolt through bush and
drive center tube out. Then use hacksaw blade to almost cut through the outer
tube along its length in two locations 10mm - 12mm apart. Then use punch or
chisel to peel out section between cuts; remainder of bush should follow.

Recommendation for bush installation is to use very large vise as press for
bushes in springs. For bushes in chassis either take vise to chassis, raise
it in position and use as press (shown in photo); or use a long bolt through
chassis and bush with very thick washers to pull bush into position.

David Cockey
Rochester, MI

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From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 14:07:06 -0400
Subject: Re: 50th Anniversary When????

Michael Slade wonders:
>I was talking to a few people this weekend at the Portland All British
>Field Meet about the 50th anniversary of the LR Marque.
>So, the big question is, 'When is it?', and how, if you can, do you
>determine when a marque is created.

The Land Rover was introduced at the Amsterdam Motor Show in April 1948. This
is generally regarded as the anniversary of the Land Rover. I believe a
celebration may be in planning for April 1998 in Holland. The Series I Club
is planning a 50th Anniversary Celebration June 27-28, 1998 at Shugborough
Hall near Stafford.

David Cockey
Rochester, Michigan

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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 11:23:22 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Series Database

I submitted this info before, but not in the right format; here it is 
proper if you haven't entered it yet.

?,1959,II,109,Indy,limestone,California,USA,dd,unk,
sinasohn@crl.com,lro-net,
2dr hard top; Toro OD; Roof Rack; rem. bed & cabinets; lic. "INDY 1"

?,1962,IIa,109,,dark green,California,USA,ur,unk,sinasohn@crl.com,lro-net,
4dr hard top; Chevy 6; Fairey OD; needs trans rebuilt and new engine

?,1974,III,88,,blue,California,USA,ur,unk,sinasohn@crl.com,lro-net,
2dr SW; needs rewiring; lic. plate "SFARI 88"

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 21:24:19 +0200
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Brakes

Miroslav wrote:
:BUT, when I try to put the things back together they
:don't seem to sit properly. The LR is a series 3 stage 1 and I think that I
:might be putting the springs on incorrectly onto the shoes. There are 3 holes
:at the bottom of the shoe and 2 up the top. When I put the springs on to the
:holes that make the springs strech the least the shoes fall off, when I put
:them onto the next set of holes, the shoes are sprung too tight and ptotrude
:outwards. WHAT am I doing wrong.

You just learned a lesson: Before dismantling, sketch (and keep sketch in a 
safe place).

The next-easiest thing in a case like this where things come in pairs is to 
have a look at the other half of the pair, i.e. the other wheel. If things 
are not catastrophic there, you just copy what you see. 

At least on my SI, one spring goes behind the shoes and the other in front; 
that way nothing protrudes. That does not mean the job is easy. I imagine 
the springs would be much stronger on your stage 1...
Good luck
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 21:24:25 +0200
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: 1998 50th anniversary

The official event will take place in Amsterdam in late April 1998 (can't 
find the exact date). Why? Because the Land-Rover was first introduced to 
the public in the April 30, 1948 Amsterdam Motor Show (Rover was a bit late 
for the more prestigious Geneva show in March).

Another event worth keeping in mind is the Land-Rover Series One Club 
meeting on June 27-28 at Shugborough Hall, near Stafford. More than 300 SI's 
should be there.
Regards
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 13:10:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: Report from Portland

At 07:36 02.09.96 -0700, Gene Sparks wrote:
>Gland Sauce anyone?) John White must have paid off the ticket drawers cause
>he won twice (do the pearls fit John?).

Yep, and they look stunning with the plaid nightshirt.

Good to finally get some "face time," as we say in the business, with all
those folks we usually only see in cyberspace.

Cheers!
John

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From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 17:10:05 -0400
Subject: Re: 2.5 L TORQUE SETTINGS

Main Bearing Caps: 85 lbft
Big ends:25 lbft, but 35 lbft if the bolts have machined threads (threaded
portion is same diameter as bolt shank.
The above from the Haynes Manual, #314
Cheers!!
John Dillingham
Woodstock, GA
Yes, I would like a P5, please not last name not spelled with 'worth'
Thanks!!

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Date: Mon, 02 Sep 1996 14:25:11 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: fiberglass springs

I read somewhere that the Australian army was experimenting with 
fiberglass springs on their land rovers. Can anyone confirm or deny this? 
I'd be interested in knowing how they compare to the standard steel ones.

Cheers, Greg
Comox, B.C.

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From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 17:56:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Driveshafts

Another driveshaft question for the 'net:

I've heard that the face of the output flange on the transmission and the input 
flange on the differential must be parallel in order to prevent dangerous 
driveline vibrations from developing....

If this is true, installing military (or one tonne) shackles without extending 
the opposing chassis perch could make for some problems....no?

Thoughts, anyone?

Rgds,
Eric

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Date: 02 Sep 96 18:11:53 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Re: steering box rebuild (reaming)

>>In rebuilding the steering box on my series III, I replaced the brass 
>>bush for the rocker shaft. Trying to replace the rocker shaft is a 
>>If so, is there a particular dimesion or clearance between it and the 
>>rocker shaft?
...
>guide, and to enlarge the bushing slowly, testing after each pass until the
>shaft will just slip thru under its own weight. Sounds like effectively zero
>clearance.

This mother shouldn't have any clearance at all. In fact, a *slight* pre-load
is advisable. You should just about be able to push the rocker shaft through 
and rotate it by hand with some force (it should rotate smoothly without
seizing). It will settle and more or less ream itself in when in use. Fill
box with oil before putting on full load!

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

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From: GNBull3@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 20:02:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Replacing bushes ala LRW

>I am about to do the chassis bushes on my 88.  I suspect I will use a 
>threaded rod with a nut on the back and a deep socket on the front and 
>using another nut, draw the bush out into the deep socket.  Has anyone 
>found a better way to do this.
>No personal experience.

I've tried the LRW way of removing bushes and it was far from being a
pleasent experience. The center tube can be very stuborn to remove and using
a hacksaw is tedious and akward. I'd try pulling them out with a socket as
mentioned first. If that fails then I'd cut them out ala LRW. If you do have
to cut them out be very careful not to cut the actual chassis. Sounds obvious
but it's not that difficult to bung it up.
As for installing new bushes, I froze mine overnight. Then I heated up the
chassis and slid the bushes right in. Most slid in by hand but a few needed a
small tap to help them along. If you do decide to do it this way don't fart
around because as soon as the temp's equalize they won't go anywhere without
more drastic measures such as a vice. Anyway, the old freeze up method worked
wonders for me but then maybe I was lucky, although fate is rarely on my side
when it comes to working on stubborn Landies. 

Cheers

George 

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From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 21:16:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Driveshafts

More driveshaft questions:

>I've heard that the face of the output flange on the transmission and the
>input 
>flange on the differential must be parallel in order to prevent dangerous 
>driveline vibrations from developing....

As has been explained with a standard Cardan joint (cross type) the output
will actually speed up and slow down compared to the input twice each
revolution. One way to deal with this is it use two joints with the input of
the first paralled to the output of the second. Then if they are properly
phased (already discussed) the speed variations will cancel. So yes, raising
your LR by longer spring shackles alone can induce driveshaft harmonics by
rotating the diff.  Another consideration is the max angle you can expect the
U-joints to tolerate. Don't have the standard SAE reference handy, but it
isn't much. I'd guess the reason some RRs have stangely phased front
propshafts is that it wasn't possible to arrange parallel input and output
within the angle limitations, so the u-joint phasing was selected to minimize
but not eliminate the harmonics.

David Cockey
Rochester, MI

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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 21:17:02 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Spin-on oil filters

Jeff Berg asks about the advantages of spin-on oil filters.  The spin on 
adapter has two oil seals - one between the block and the adapter and one on 
each filter cannister.  As such, it replaces about a half dozen 
seals/gaskets on the stock setup.  Your oil pressure relief valve/spring 
gets replaced at every change.  No futzing with the recessed oil filter 
gasket.  Filters are available *everywhere*...and cheap, too.  (Use Fram PH 
8A.)  And lastly, you wont fill your armpit up with hot oil every time you 
change the filter.

The only disadvantage is if you hook it up wrong, you'll pump dirty oil thru 
the enngine instead.  (The oil pressure fitting "aims" in the same direction 
as the existing fitting.)  'Nuff said, eh?  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

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Date: Sun, 01 Sep 1996 20:26:39
From: CarDoctor@gnn.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: 109 Brake bleeding.

Hi All,
 I guess I have met my match & have to call for guidance from those more 
experienced then me.   

Here is the problem. 
   I installed new wheel slaves all around on a 1959 109 SW.  However 
because the rear wheels were the three bolt D mounting kind( which I was 
told were not available here) I installed 1 1/2 Dia. rear wheel slaves.
Normal work so far.  Then the fun begins with no brake pedal.  So following 
the book I clamped off the brake hoses to find the air in the system. If I 
clamp the rear hose at the front I get a half brake pedal.  If I clamp it 
towards the backend of the hose I lost the pedal completely.  I can get 
either front or back brakes but not both. the master also does not seem to 
"return " when in the bleeding process. 

 SO what is happening here???? Is the master bad or to small for the 
additional volume of the larger slaves in the rear ???  NO air is to be 
found by bleeding any of the wheels either.

HELP! 

Rob Davis_Chicago

Failure is not an option
Not on my watch.......

!971 (88)  Treeweaver
!965 (109SW)  OX
1968 (109 three door)  Dad's toy (only the caretaker)

------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 19:02:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Blair Gillespie <Gillespie@thegrid.net>
Subject: towing

Good evening,
        I am about to go pick up my new S III this week and I have a couple
questions.

1. I am sure people have flat towed their series before so I would like to
know their experiences with doing so. I have access to tow bumber that is
made for a series vehicle so that would be a clean installation. This would
be nice because their would be no trailer weight but the idea of not having
brakes behind is not all that appealing. Do people think that my RR  brakes
would be ok?

2. Would it be better to use a tow dolly ?   Does anybody know if tow
dollies have surge brakes?

3. A trailer. While this would probably be the best way it does not lend it
self to loading the Land Rover by myself and the added weight of the trailer
plus an 88 makes for a slow trip up and back.
                Comments,
                        Rover On,
                                Blair
P.S. I will be using my 88 RR for the tow vehicle.
Blair Gillespie
San Luis Obispo Ca. USA
1988 Range Rover
1973 S III 88
1967 FLH HD

------------------------------
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Date: 03 Sep 96 00:00:56 EDT
From: Rob Dennis <73363.427@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: towing

I have a 90RR and used it to tow the SerIII several times using a tow bar. The
longest trip was about 200 miles up through mountainous north georgia, into
North Carolina. I never had any trouble with braking, but did wish I had more
power on several occasions. 

The first rover I purchased was in Virginia, and I towed it home behind a F250
pickup using the tow bar. Drove about 600 miles home, and I couldn't even tell
it was back there.

If you don't have to far to go, I would just use the tow bar.

  
     -------------------       
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     73363.427@Compuserve.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|      (404) 875-4537
   |     |   ###   |     |      
   |     | ####### |     |      1972 SerIII 88
   |_____|_#######_|_____|      1990 RangeRover
  [_______________________]     1996 Discovery
     EEEI           EEEI

Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 On 02-Sep-1996

------------------------------
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From: johnsona@com.usq.edu.au (Arthur Johnson)
Date: Tue, 03 Sep 1996 14:30:05 +1000
Subject: Series 1. 2 litre Questions

Greetings! I have enjoyed your postings over the past couple of weeks and 
hope you may be able to assist with a few engine problems; the start of many 
I feel!

I recently bought a 1950 Series 1 for restoration. The vehicle is reasonably  
complete but was not *a runner*, having a seized engine. The reason for the 
engine condition was that one of the bigend bearings had *fretted*, the 
slippers had moved within the conrod to run *piggyback* and consequently 
ruined the crankshaft and connecting rod. The block also carried repairs from 
a previous incident where a bigend had thrown and passed through the block on 
the RH side where the sump bolts on.

Attempts to obtain a suitable replacement engine have not been wonderfully 
successful. A second engine, a 1950 1.6 litre with appropriate engine #, 
had a bigend and shaft in even worse condition than the first and also 
sported considerable bore damage. The third, a 1952 2 litre was marginally 
better. 

The fourth, a short *spread bore* 2 litre, looks more promising. This one is 
worn but *standard* in bore and shaft and it is in regard to this engine that 
I hope someone may be able to help with some information. The conrods have an 
oiler hole and small gudgeon pin, it is fitted with a large rear 
crankshaft seal, full flow oil filter and crankshaft with separate thrust 
washers. I have a 1954-57 parts book (printed in the 1950's) and it states 
that the oil return pipe is in the centre main bearing cap; this engine has 
the oil return in the rear main cap. The engine # is unreadable due to 
corrosion, but if pressed I would guess that it commences with a 5. 

Can anyone suggest a description of the model of this engine that could be 
used when ordering parts (Is it out of a Rover Car?)? Also, the parts manual 
has written in biro on the *piston-conrod* page (#12), an alteration to the 
gudgeon bush to enable using pistons with the large gudgeon pin. It states 
simply *Gudgeon bush modification to convert small pin to large pin. I.D. 11/
16"; O.D. 7/8"*. Does anyone have any experience of this modification? Should 
I expect any difficulty in completing the relatively late 2 litre engine with 
1.6 and early 2 litre parts?

Thanks!

Arthur Johnson

------------------------------
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From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 00:44:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: towing

I've towed my father's 109" SW behind my 109" (flat tow) on several occasions.  
Although It wasn't the most stable arrangement, a sharp eye for what's ahead and 
a distinct drop in speed around curves was all that was needed for a few hundred 
miles at a shot.

Rgds,
Eric

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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 15:30:19 +1100
From: m.belik@uws.edu.au (Miroslav Belik)
Subject: Re: Back Breaks

        At 08:08 AM 8/28/96 -0600, you wrote:
>     rovers north has an excellent instruction sheet you can get from thier
>     web site. http://www.roversnorth.com  when i did my brakes, one
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>     73 88 sw "peggy"
>hi
 tryed myself and can't find rovernorth on the web.
I'm still trying and let you know .
bye
Ofir

Since I saw the page address I have visited with out problems.
Just thought that I would mention this.

Mirek.
SII Stage 1 (Trying to get it going)
Miroslav Belik                    Email: M.Belik@UWS.EDU.AU        
UWS, Macarthur               Phone: 018-028-708 or 61 2 823 9445
P.O. Box 555                     FAX:   61 46 203025              
Campbelltown, 2560                                                             
NSW      
Australia.
         

------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 07:36:03 +0200
From: bcotton@lia.co.za (Brian Cotton)
Subject: SIII sil panel and "I'm back"

Howdy folks !

I have returned from my holiday travels in the Richersveld Nat Park and
Namaqualand (South Africa) in the flowering desert with many a tale to tell.
I'll assemble a small story for ya all and put some pics on my web page. We
have decided to include this whole area in the now 8 week 50th celebratory
tour of South Africa in 1998.
(To which you are all invited) Tour details will be comming soon. 

I have successfully glued vinyl onto my SIII sil panel with very neat results.

It comes in lots of colours and textures. 
*Hint: Don't use a textured one -the dust sits in the grooves and is
difficult to clean*

------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 07:37:40 +0200
From: bcotton@lia.co.za (Brian Cotton)
Subject: SIII sil panel and "I'm back"

Howdy folks !

Sorry I forgot to say goodbye !

Cheers
Brian -Whats that noise- Cotton 

------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 15:54:16 +1100
From: m.belik@uws.edu.au (Miroslav Belik)
Subject: The locks on SIII

Hello LROs

This weekend I am hoping to finally put my beast together and drive it for
the first time. Now, before I go out into the big world eith my new LR I
want to be able to lock it. This is however an impossibility as only one of
the locks on the car works. Apparently this is a common problem woth these
vehicles. Is there a way to fix this without spending a large amount of my
budget on locks or will the landie have to forgoe other new parts for the
locks. Many people have told me that putting on second hand ones is useless
as it will yield the same problem.

I need to secure the car, as the neighbour-hood I live has a high rate of
theft (I have already had 2 jacks stolen from under the LR, one supporting
the motor, while the gearbox is out and the other under the back spring
whilst I was changing over the backing plate). Anyway I hope that some has
an idea on how to fix this up.

Thanks.
Mirek
Miroslav Belik                    Email: M.Belik@UWS.EDU.AU        
UWS, Macarthur               Phone: 018-028-708 or 61 2 823 9445
P.O. Box 555                     FAX:   61 46 203025              
Campbelltown, 2560                                                             
NSW      
Australia.
         

------------------------------
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From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de
Subject: Re: The locks on SIII
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 08:16:21 +0200 (METDST)

Hi,
| This weekend I am hoping to finally put my beast together and drive it for
| the first time. Now, before I go out into the big world eith my new LR I
| want to be able to lock it.

Nearly impossible, I think. A friend of mine drives a SIII and all the locks
work (means: you can lock and unlock and they stay locked). But I can unlock
them with the key of my bikelock! The locks of my 110 are almost new, but
I'd expect somebody with 'experiance' to get in in minutes or less through
the door. If I'd have to get in without keys, I'd just open the back sliding
window (one of these LR fit later units) with a knive.

I think LR locks are just ment to keep kids from playing in the truck.

Cheers,
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                 tbr1102@sunmail.lrz-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 08:32:24 +0200
From: bcotton@lia.co.za (Brian Cotton)
Subject: LROC of SA

There is a rally on Saturday/Sunday 50 Km from Pretoria.

If there is anyone who wants to come and see be you a new member or an
interested individual, please mail me and I'll give you the info.

50th Celebratory Tour

I will be posting a comprehensive piece of info on my web page in the next
few weeks regarding the tour.
For now:        * Starts at the begining of April 1998
                * Covers about 8000 Km of South Africa
                * Structured in stages which can be left or joined as you wish
                * Self catered, tent camping, no ablutions
                * Private vehicles will be up for hire (pricing to follow later)
                * Off-road trailers will be available with all equip supplied
                * The applicant must be a member of ANY 4wd club and MUST
own a                   LR or any description
                * Small groups will be formed as traveling companions
                * Repairs will be done by the driver or as arranged when a
vehicle is hired.
                * Lots more to follow *

T-Shirts

I've been away for 2 weeks and don't know what the status is on the T-Shirts
for us here in SA or Globaly.  
Please inform me  :-)

Cheers 
Brian -What's happening- Cotton

------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 08:32:20 +0200
From: bcotton@lia.co.za (Brian Cotton)
Subject: LROC of SA

There is a rally on Saturday/Sunday 50 Km from Pretoria.

If there is anyone who wants to come and see be you a new member or an
interested individual, please mail me and I'll give you the info.

50th Celebratory Tour

I will be posting a comprehensive piece of info on my web page in the next
few weeks regarding the tour.
For now:        * Starts at the begining of April 1998
                * Covers about 8000 Km of South Africa
                * Structured in stages which can be left or joined as you wish
                * Self catered, tent camping, no ablutions
                * Private vehicles will be up for hire (pricing to follow later)
                * Off-road trailers will be available with all equip supplied
                * The applicant must be a member of ANY 4wd club and MUST
own a                   LR or any description
                * Small groups will be formed as traveling companions
                * Repairs will be done by the driver or as arranged when a
vehicle is hired.
                * Lots more to follow *

T-Shirts

I've been away for 2 weeks and don't know what the status is on the T-Shirts
for us here in SA or Globaly.  
Please inform me  :-)

Cheers 
Brian -What's happening- Cotton

------------------------------
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From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 08:17:48 +0000
Subject: Re: Replacing bushes ala LRW

> >I am about to do the chassis bushes on my 88.  I suspect I will use a
> >threaded rod with a nut on the back and a deep socket on the front and
> >using another nut, draw the bush out into the deep socket.  Has anyone
> >found a better way to do this.
> No personal experience.
I replaced the front spring-bushes on my 109 - in the street.

details are available at:
	http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/lucas/bushes.html

hope this helps.

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

However strong my opinions are, they are mine and no-one elses.

------------------------------
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From: "Huub Pennings" <pennings@kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 09:30:12 +0100
Subject:       Re: Can of Worms

Just three days ago I bought my first landrover so here is my 
contribution to the series- lr database.  

sallbaag2aa145375,1981,III,88,nonesofar,green,Oosterhout,Holland,dr,unk,Pennings@kfih.azr.nl,lro-
net,still in the proces listing the necessary repairs 

Good Rovering,

Huub

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Subject: Re: Report from Portland 
Date: Tue, 03 Sep 1996 01:02:11 -0700
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@ridgecrest.ca.us>

Gene Sparks wrote:
> For those of you that did not attend, this is just a brief overview of the
> ABFM in Portland. ROVERS, ROVERS, ROVERS. There were about 50 rovers in
> attendance with a pleasant variety. Mostly series vehicles in all flavors
> and in all states of repair, with a nice spattering of D90's, Discos and
> Range Rovers. 

	Actually Gene you undercounted by a bit.  Between 1pm and 2pm on 
Saturday I walked around and counted (it would have been faster, but I kept
on being distracted by conversations with LROs).   No Rovers left while I was
counting.  A total of 93 Land Rovers (and 2 Rover cars) were present.  Of
these, 3 (1 SIIA 88, 1 SIIA 109 and 1 Range Rover Classic) stayed at the
Land Rover camp site (a few hundred yards from the show area) and 12 were in
the parking lot (6 Range Rover Classics, 1 D90 Station Wagon, 4 Discos and
1 SII 109 Station Wagon).

	So the breakdown of total Rovers on site were:
Overview:
Series I              2
Series II             5
Series IIA           37
Series III            4
Defender             13
Range Rover Classic  14
Range Rover, mk2      2
Discovery            16
		   ====
                     93

Details
Series I  80"              1
Series I  86"              0
Series I 107"              0
Series I  88"              1
Series I 109"              0
Series II 88"              2
Series II 109" 3 door      2  (one is being converted to a Dormobile)
Series II 109" 5-door      1
Series IIA 88"            15 
Series IIA 109" 3 door     4 
Series IIA 109" 5-door    16  (6 are Dormobiles)
Series IIA 88" coiler      2  (one is custom built and other has Range Rover
                               rolling chassis)
Series III 88"             1 
Series III 109" 3 door     1 
Series III 109" 5-door     0 
Series III 109 V8 5-door   1  aka "Stage One"  
Series III Lightweight     1

'93 Defender 110           1
'94/5 Defender 90          8
'95 Defender 90 Stn Wgn    4
Range Rover Classic 2door  1
Range Rover Classic 4door 13
Range Rover, mk 2          2
Discovery                 16
                        ====
                          93

Rover by year overview:
1950-9     4
1960-9    36
1970-9     7 
1980-9     5  \__ 1
1990-9    40  /
	====
	  93

Rovers by year:
1951       1
1952-1956  none
1957       1
1958       0
1959       2
1960       2
1961       0
1962       3
1963       3
1964       4
1965       1
1966       4
1967      11
1968       1
1969       3
1970       2
1971       2
1972       0
1973       1
1974       1
1975-1980  none 
1981       1
1982       0
1983       1
1984-1986  none 
1987       1
1988       1
1989       1
1990       2
1991       1
1992       1
1993       3
1994       6
1995      15
1996      12

Non year specific:
1971-1974 SIII       1
1962-1968 SIIA       4 
1987-1996 RR classic 1

Ben
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Benjamin Smith----------bens@ridgecrest.ca.us----------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------
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Subject: new Series I book
Date: Tue, 03 Sep 1996 01:45:09 -0700
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@ridgecrest.ca.us>

 _Origional Land-Rover Series I: The Restorer's Guide to all civil and 
military models 1948-1958_ by James Taylor, Bay View Books, Devon, UK, 
copyright 1996.  ISBN 1 870979 72 9.  128pp lots of color photos.  Hard cover.

	I found this in a bookstore in Portland and read it on the plane ride
back.  Lots and lots of Series I details.  I'd recommend it to anyone
restoring a Series I.  Cover price is L 19.95 and I paid ~$35.

Ben

------------------------------
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