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Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 13:59:57 +0200
From: wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter de Waal)
Subject: Re: WARN FW Hubs

Hi

Daryl asks:

>> and washer. Now what? It looks as if the stub shaft should pull straight
>> out, but some moderate persuation with a hammer has so far achieved nothing.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>swivel is dismantled. it should be possible to move it a small amount in 
>and out, but it definitely wont come out of the stub axle.... 

Oh my, this is too complex for ascii art, so a 1000 words will have to do...

The FW hub is a cylinder, fastened to the wheel hub. After I took out the 6
bolts, the top cover came off. This is the bit with the selector on. But
most of the cylinder is still on the wheel. It's loose, but doesn't slide
off. The stub axle goes through the centre of this cylinder, to another bit
that has splines on the outside. This bit is fastened to the stub axle
fairly securely, and doesn't move, even after I removed the castle nut &c.
And the large cylinder is trapped behind this bit. It looks as if this bit
just slides over the stub axle, in the same way as the standard driving
member. But it doesn't.

Are the stub axles longer for FWHs? Is the bit I'm seeing an extension of
the stub axle (i.e. part of the FWH) or the stub axle itself?

If I undo the steering arm &c and remove the hub and everything I still
won't know how to get the rest of the hub off.

Thanks

W
--
Wouter de Waal        Phone : +27 21 683 5490
Development Engineer  Fax   : +27 21 683 5435
CCII Systems
Kenilworth, South Africa

------------------------------

From: newsroom@acsworld.net (Merf Radio/WIEZ Newsroom)
Subject: Replacement Seats
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 10:13:56 -0400

Question of the day, as I continue to work on "Project: Spend all the =
Money I Have, and More, on the LR"  --

Has anybody tried a high-back replacement seat for their Series Rover, =
such as the ones listed by "TRAKKERS" or B.L.R.S.Limited", as listed in =
the latest LRO.  --  or any other suggestions for seat replacements on a =
Series.

The seats on my are in eventual need of replacement <what isn't :-)>, =
and I like the idea of some more upper back and neck support!

Thanks for any ideas, and thanks to everyone who e-mailed responses to =
my tire size questions.

Nils Frederiksen

No longer stuck in Central PA,
thanks to my "Lan'Grover"!

1970 sIIa, 88", name change courtesy of my 3yr old...;-)

------------------------------

From: dsticht@cyberportal.net
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 10:18:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Green Laning

Would anyone be interested in some light green laning on Sat. 28, Sept.?  This 
would be in Moultonboro, NH.  Meeting abiut 10:00, picnic in the mountains 
with a view, then to the top of mt Shaw (3000'). No body damage.
Dave Sticht
'94 D90
'96 Disco

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 11:30:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: 12/4/95 <rsloan@titan.liunet.edu>
Subject: how to get the head off

Try using a crow bar.  I nearly got mine off with one shot:)!

rich
D90 #2948 "scarface"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 11:44:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: 12/4/95 <rsloan@titan.liunet.edu>
Subject: Jacob's Electronics

Has anyone on the list had any experiences they could relate about 
dealing with Jacob's Electronics?  I read their ad boasting about 
increased performance, ie: increased horsepower, (about 8 on the average) 
increased miles to the gallon (here's where I started getting interested) 
and so on.  The ad was in Peterson's 4wheel Drive Mag, I've seen it 
advertised there quite often back when I drove an early bronco, and i had 
thought about using the Power Pack (I think that's what they call it) on 
that rig.  The whole thing is supposed to just tie right in with whatever 
setup the vehicle runs with now.  There is some kind of computer (warning 
bells?) a new coil, plugs, and beefy wires.  Probably some other stuff 
too but I don't remember.  Someone I was aquainted with way back when got 
one and swore by it, so I'm wondering if any of the list members have any 
info.  I'm most interested in reducing the amount of fuel my truck is 
guzzling, driving habits aside, I'd be willing to consider some kind of 
device like that to increase the mpg without having to relinquish 
"normal" traffic speeds. From standing to driving where I live is not 
adequate time for my D90 to "gently" accelerate.  Also, I'm usually 
always late to wherever it is I'm going so I'm heavy on the pedal so to 
speak...regardless of how I drive though, if anyone has any experiences 
let's hear 'em!

rich
D90 #2948 "scarface"
  

------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 14:14:24 -0400
Subject: Re: How do I get the head off?

Delete this item from my message on head removal. I was wrong (faulty memory)
and 4cyl LRs don't have dowel pins.
>2) There are several dowel pins which locate the head and prevent it from
>sliding. So trying to knock it side to side to lossen it doesn't work. Try
>knocking upward using a block of wood. The pins can also bind if you don't
>lift evenly.

Sorry about that,
David Cockey
Rochester, Michigan
'60 SII PU awaiting its head

------------------------------

From: RALPH@SMUGGITS.MHS.CompuServe.COM
Date: 26 Aug 96 14:39:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Replacement Seats

Nils,

If you are willing to do a bit of work to get them to fit, I would 
reccomend replacing the seats with Recaros, or similar from another car 
as they are far more comfortable than any seat designed to fit the LR. If 
you get them second hand, they may well be cheaper too. The only issue is 
originality (and losing the middle seat.)

Ralph 

101 FC 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 12:28:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: johnliu@earthlink.net
Subject: WARN FW Hubs

If you need more detail about the removal of your hubs let me know
and I can scan an exploded drawing and email the image to you as a JPEG
file, and/or narrate the process in more detail.  The shiny driveshaft with
a splined end that is sticking out of the Warn FWH body is the halfshaft and
it goes all the way to the differential.  To remove it, you need to
remove the body of the Warn FWH unit (if you've removed all bolts, it should
come off with gentle persuasion, e.g., rubber mallet),
remove the two large nuts that are holding the hub assembly onto the stub
axle, pull off the hub (which is
different from the Warn FWH unit) and then unbolt
the stub axle from the swivel housing.  After you have stripped
things down to the swivel housing, you can pull the halfshaft out.  You will
not have to remove the swivel housing or brake backing plate
to get the halfshaft out.  (I hope I'm remembering this correctly.)  It
is not a difficult process although you may encounter some rusted bolts and
all the fun attendant to such discoveries.

John Y. Liu
johnliu@earthlink.net (via HP200LX and NetTamer)

John Y. Liu

`[1;32;45mNet-Tamer V 1.05.1 - Registered

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Aug 96 15:42:33 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Off with your head!!

Speaking of heads...

I just got mine friday. It went back on with the "greatest of ease". Here's a 
quick tutorial on head maintenance...

HOW TO PROPERLY RE-TORQUE THE HEAD BOLTS-
Another 10 Step Tutorial by Dave Bobeck

1. Paint the entire engine. Loosen all the head bolts. This is so that when you 
retorque them, you will be "starting fresh". If you hear a whoosh when you 
loosen a bolt you must go to to step 2. Otherwise, go to step 2.

2. Remove all the head bolts. Look for oil and other nasties in the holes. If 
you see oil in the bottom of the holes then you must remove the head

3. Remove the head. You can now clean out all the holes in the top of the block
  Also a good time to decoke the pistons.

4. Inspect the valves. Bring the head to a machine shop to have them install 
hardened exhaust valves and seats.

5. Collect your newly reconditioned head, together with all the proper gaskets. 

6. Get some 1/2" fine thread bolts and cut the heads off. Make sur they are 
plenty long. Cut a notch where the head used to be so that you can use a 
screwdriver to get em out. Place the new head gasket on there followed by the 
head. Put all the head bolts back in except for the five that hold down the 
rocker shaft. Twiddle 'em down so that they are just up against the head but not
tight at all.

7. Place the rocker shaft in place and put the five head bolts in that hold it. 
Then put in the five small bolts that hold the rocker to the head. In doing this
it is extremely important to try to drop at least one very small piece of 
hardware into some small hole in the head so that it cannot possibly be 
retrieved. If you think it may be retievable, than simply kknock it with a 
screwdriver so that it goes all the wayt down into the engine.

8. Now you are faced with a real challenge! Putting a head no is "easy stuff" so
we thought we'd beef up the difficulty level here. You must now retieve the 
dropped Small Part. First climb under the truck. Remove the oil pan. This will 
give you a good hearty taste of the do-it-yourself ethic we all live for.
Of course the aforementioned Small Part won't be in there! Dummy! Who said this 
was easy?! Now. Remove one of the side covers and retrieve the lost Small Part 
and replace the cover. Don't worry about the oil pan, you don't need that yet.

9. Go back ot step 6 and replace the head again. This time don't drop anything 
into the engine. You will have enough trouble re-assembling the valve gear since
you  are going to purposefully have it spring apart just before you install it. 
Try putting it together backwards the first time just so that you are sure how 
it's supposed to go.

10. Adjust all valves and replace all your senders, oil feed pipe dood-ads, 
hoses, etc. Invite Bill Adams to come over and reinstall your oil pan. Bill will
be more than happy to cut you a custom sump gasket for no extra charge. It will 
surely be better than the original.

That's it! You've now gone "beyond the oil change" and can consider yourelf a 
real, hgonest-to-god, no-bullshit, dyed-in-the-Ralph Lauren-Denim, Land Rover 
enthusiast...

Cheers
Dave B. 
72 SIII "Almost there"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 16:01:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Off with your head!!

On Mon, 26 Aug 1996, Bobeck, David R. wrote:

> Speaking of heads...

	or lack thereof...

> 3. Remove the head. You can now clean out all the holes in the top of the block
>   Also a good time to decoke the pistons.

  3a.  After removing head bolts, and prying for a while with the upward
	pressure exerted by the valve springs, remember that you have not
	removed the oil pipe at the back of the head.  Remove before you
	break it in half...

> 10. Adjust all valves and replace all your senders, oil feed pipe dood-ads, 

	Perfect!  You remembered to replace the oil-feed pipe...  Engine 
	makes a curious gurgling sound if it isn't attached.

  10a. If you have forgotten the oil feed pipe, have run the engine for a
	little while, realised all of a sudden what it was, you can flip 
	a coin to see what you do next.  Run 8 feet for the hose, turning
	it on full blast under the LR so the huge river of oil gets washed
	away before leaving a horrid mark on the girlfriends driveway,
	or shut the engine off and run for the hose.... etc etc...

> That's it! You've now gone "beyond the oil change" and can consider yourelf a 
> real, hgonest-to-god, no-bullshit, dyed-in-the-Ralph Lauren-Denim, Land Rover 
> enthusiast...

	If the oil casister casing isn't on right, or your spin on 
	adapter PH-8A filter isn't on tight, the sound of rain means that
	you don't run for cover, you run for the ignition key and/or the
	hose as in step 10a.

	Conclusion:  rain-like sounds = you forgot the oil filter
		     gurgling sounds  = you forgot the oil feed pipe thingie

	Rgds,

	PS.  The black concrete at the curb is from extra asphalt laid down
	when they paved the girlfrinds street last Fall, I firmly deny that
	it is blackened 30w50.  We recycle that... <ahem>

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 26 Aug 96 13:01:17 MST
Subject: Slow progress on the 88's g-box.

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486

Hello all, you probably won't remember this, but just over a year ago, I
shattered the clutch on my '71 IIa 88. I have finally gathered most
(there's always something more, so you can "never" say "never") of bits
to put it all back together. This past weekend, I finally got the new
clutch in, and managed to get the gearbox in BY MYSELF! Not because I
was too prideful to ask for help, just that nobody was available to
help. (And I was too impatient to wait for help!) I did have the
assistance of my 16 year old son to place it "in" the LR, to where the
front was on the frame cross member, and the rear was touching the
driveway. This is most definitely NOT the recommended thing to do. I
have numerous bruises on my thighs from supporting and pushing the rear
of the g-box while trying to align it with the clutch and engine. I'm
not the biggest of men, weighing in at 155 fully dressed with hiking
boots on.

As with many of my "home repairs" I had to do it twice. The first time I
had the help of my son, but the clutch wouldn't disengage. The petal
would stop about an inch from the floor. To make a LONG story short(er)
this turned out to be a problem with the clutch withdrawal mechanism
inside the front of the g-box. A misaligned bushing wouldn't allow the
throwout bearing to travel fully forwards.

Just thought you may be interested to know that it "can" be done single
handed, but not easily. I tried using a weightlifting bar between the
top of the dash and the bulkhead behind the seats with a rope slung
around the g-box, and a tire iron to tighten the rope as a tourniquet.

Almost running again, after over a year!!! Now, the parking brake, prop
shafts, seat box, and floors. Then, back to the DMV for licensing!

Dave (starting to get excited) Brown

 #=====#         #========#            _____l___
 |___|__\___     |___|__|__\___       //__/__|__\___
 | _ |   |_ |}   | _ |  |   |_ |}     \__ - ____ - _|}
 "(_)""""(_)"    "(_)"""""""(_)"         (_)    (_)

 1971 "88" IIa   1970 "109" IIa        '87 Range Rover
 LIC: LION B8    Historic plates        rear Lock-Right  Bilstein shocks
                 Will be restored...    Crane cam        Optima battery
 Dave Brown                             OME HD springs   SSB CB radio
 Phoenix Arizona USA (602) 820-8052     Hella lights (6) Flowmaster muffler
 Books, tools, knowledge, lodging, coffee...  Pager: 602.275.2508 #6486

#=======#         _________         "What lies behind us and what lies
|__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___    before us are tiny matters compared
| _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ - _|}  to what lies within us."
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                     Ralph Waldo Emerson

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 22:20:53 +0200
From: Jan Schokker <janjan@xs4all.nl>
Subject: Re: How do I get the head off?

At 14:14 26-08-96 -0400, you wrote:

   Delete this item from my message on head removal. I was wrong (faulty memory)
   and 4cyl LRs don't have dowel pins.
        2) There are several dowel pins which locate the head and prevent it
from
        sliding. So trying to knock it side to side to lossen it doesn't
work. Try
        knocking upward using a block of wood. The pins can also bind if you
don't
        lift evenly.
   Sorry about that,
   David Cockey
   Rochester, Michigan

David, 

You are forgiven. No problem.
Thanks for the tips everyone. I started this job by reading the factory
manual, so I am pretty sure
I unbolted everything (yes, there is an oil pipe). Today someone gave me
some pieces of hard wood.
That should work better then what I used until now. 
Using the compression to lift the head sounds interresting. Maybe the
combination
of compression, a hoist, and some gentle tapping with a hammer will make it fly
through the ceiling.
I'll give it a go tomorrow.

Jan.

janjan@xs4all.nl
De Woude, Netherlands.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 15:08:58 -5
Subject: Re: Off with your head!!

Snip
> 10. Adjust all valves and replace all your senders, oil feed pipe dood-ads, 
> hoses, etc. Invite Bill Adams to come over and reinstall your oil pan. Bill will
> be more than happy to cut you a custom sump gasket for no extra charge. It will 
> surely be better than the original.
snip

Dave,
You left out one important step before replaceing the oil pan, which 
is;
refill the engine with oil. Just in case there isn't enough 
already all over your (pick one or more) garage 
floor/driveway/yard/feet.

*Then* you have Bill come over to reinstall the oil pan.

Other than that one omission, it looks about right. At least that's 
the way I do it.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 16:20:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Off with your head!!

On Mon, 26 Aug 1996, Tom Rowe wrote:

> You left out one important step before replaceing the oil pan, which 
> is; refill the engine with oil. Just in case there isn't enough 
> already all over your (pick one or more) garage floor/driveway/yard/feet.
>.
	Refill the engine with oil?  I'm missing something here.  When the
	pan comes off it is full of oil, so when the pan goes back on the
	same engine oil is already to be used.  You wouldn't want to 
	shock the engine with different oil after such a delicate operation!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Aug 96 16:49:55 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Off with your head!!

>.
>>>> Refill the engine with oil?  I'm missing something here.  When the
 pan comes off it is full of oil, ...snip...  You wouldn't want to 
 shock the engine with different oil after such a delicate operation!

Excuse me! Expert mechanics that we are, we wouldn't THINK of not draining the 
oil pan before removal! Also we ALWAYS replace the little copper sealing washer 
on the drain plug. OH, and we NEVER, ever, ever mix different oils, not even 
brands. Right guys? Right?...uh, guys?...uh never mind...

:-):-)

Dave
Mr. Detail

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Aug 96 16:53:14 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Slow progress on the 88's g-box.

Dave Brown writes:

 I
have numerous bruises on my thighs from supporting and pushing the rear
of the g-box while trying to align it with the clutch and engine. 

Hmm. Ride 'em, cowboy! :-)

Good luck.

Dave B.
Whatever floats your boat...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 13:59:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: johnliu@earthlink.net
Subject: Replacement Seats

I had second hand seats from a Porsche 914 in my LR.  They were narrow
enough that the center seat could stay.  I think both seats cost $75 or so.
These buckets really hold you in place when the Rover is pulling maximum
lateral g's!  :-)
John Y. Liu
johnliu@earthlink.net (via HP200LX and NetTamer)

John Y. Liu

`[1;37;47mNet-Tamer V 1.05.1 - Registered

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 16:04:44 -5
Subject: Re: Off with your head!!

> 	Refill the engine with oil?  I'm missing something here.  When the
 	pan comes off it is full of oil, so when the pan goes back on the
 	same engine oil is already to be used.  You wouldn't want to 
 	shock the engine with different oil after such a delicate operation!
> 	Refill the engine with oil?  I'm missing something here.  When the
Nope. When you remove the oil pan, you leave one corner bolt in so it 
tips over and pours into your face.
Sheesh, some people don't know how to do anything!. ;-)

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 17:08:29 -0400
Subject: Torque settings

     Does anyone know the correct torque setting for the front brake backing
plate to stub axle bolts?
     40 ft.lbs seems to stick in my mind for some reason , but I am unable to
find this info in the books I have
TIA
Steve Bradke    72 S lll 88 ( for sale)
                       68 S lla 88...front end apart
                       96 Discovery SE-7

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 14:16:00 -0700
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: Replacement Seats

        They want 60 quid for shipping to San Francisco, so I decided to
pursue other avenues.

C

At 10:13 AM 8/26/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Question of the day, as I continue to work on "Project: Spend all the =
>Money I Have, and More, on the LR"  --
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 26 lines)]
>thanks to my "Lan'Grover"!
>1970 sIIa, 88", name change courtesy of my 3yr old...;-)

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 18:33:43 -0400
Subject: Warn M-11 FWH's

Re-installed one of the FWH's on my '68 lla  and I noticed when turning fom
Lock to free, the hub only turns half way to  "free"
 I " think"  half way is enough to disengage the internal gears  but am not
sure 
    I can't remember if they ever turned all the way 'round so the arrow was
pointing to free or not
Any suggestions as to what is preventing the lever from turning all the way
to free?
when it's apart it does turn all the way with no problems.
Have I put it back on correctly?
Don't want to take it apart if I don't have to :)

Any help appreciated
TIA
Steve Bradke      

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 09:02:55 +1000
From: scholes@modemss.brisnet.org.au (David  R Scholes)
Subject: Tyre Pressures

My SWB SIII has 750 x 16 Olympic Trojan tyres on it. They're described on
the tyre wall as a light truck tyre. The tyre wall doesn't actually give a
recommended inflation pressure. Any suggestions as to the best pressure for
on-road use?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 00:58:08 -0700
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Unofficial Land Rover Cook Book

Anyone interested in four-wheel drive off-raod cooking, see my homepage
for details on how you can contribute to the craziest internet cookbook
for Land Rover owners and cooks!

I am planning to make a (english language) film about Land Rover Owners
and our vehicles - anyon with ideas for sponsorship or funding, besides
the obvious in Solihull, please forward ideas.

Any good anecdotes about Land Rovers (four-wheeled or two legged)
welcome.

Cheers! Bon Appetite!

Adrian Redmond

http://home2.inet.tele.dk/channel6/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 19:29:24 -0400
From: myk <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: Off with your head!!

At 04:04 PM 8/26/96 -5, you wrote:
>> 	Refill the engine with oil?  I'm missing something here.  When the

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
>tips over and pours into your face.
>Sheesh, some people don't know how to do anything!. ;-)
You guys must have been droped at birth.  Everyone know british cars never
have oil leftover (thats what that seal type thing is for, to control the
leak to a slow steady stream).  When I drop the pan it's always as dry as
the sahara.
Mike Johnson

74 SIII 88 (Chester)  174k daily driver
73 SIII 88 (Jezabel)  everyone's gettin a piece

http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 18:48:06 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca>
Subject: Rover duds

I found the best Land Rover T shirt ever here last week.  It is dark 
Rover green with the word Simple on the front. All the writing is in 
the Land Rover yellow used on the old signes.  On the back is a very 
fine Ser IIA 88 with no top.  It has the lamp guards, side step and even 
a pair of little lift rings on the bumber.  It is not just a line 
drawing, but a full art rendition  of the IIA.  It is made in Jamaica and 
the main label says Tultex.  I don't know what these numbers mean, but 
they are on the label--RN68046 and CA 20832. It is a great shirt.  The 
licence plate says simple.  The vehicle has front hubs and is left hand 
drive.  It is the best drawing I have seen on a shirt for a Land Rover.  
Also our local paper had an article saying that Waxoyl went into 
receivership and is now based in Florida. The original was Waxoyl 
Warranty Inc. of Cincinnati Ohio.  The new owner of the product is 
Safeguard Distributors of Florida.  Seems our consumers bureau issued a 
warning on them because they were not living up to warranty claims.  One 
good note is that someone in Winnipeg got a settlement from them for 
$1200 for rust damage.  Mark Perry who works for a newspaper might be 
able to get the wire reference on the article if anyone wants to know 
more about the company and the problems.  (Mark, it was in Mike Ward's 
Column)  
Has anyone tried Paddocks in England for springs.  They want 18 pounds 
for them and Merseyside says 24 pounds.  Not a bad saving even with air 
shipments makeing it 3 times the quoted price, that is only about $100 a 
spring delivered in Canada.  Dave VE4PN
   

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 19:44:03 -0500
From: hilltop <hilltop@advantage.ca>
Subject: Re: Jacob's Electronics

12/4/95 wrote:
> Has anyone on the list had any experiences they could relate about
> dealing with Jacob's Electronics?  
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> D90 #2948 "scarface"
> Hello Rich;
    Jacobs has an excellent reputation with the racing and horse power 
enthusiasts. I have READ many articles on ignition upgrades and the 
performance improvements resulting from high perf. ignition systems are 
almost too good to believe. If the system helped correct a problem, 
be it ignition or poor mixture, etc. some engines jumped almost 140 
horse! Note; these people were not after mileage but did mention it had 
improved.
    It will make the biggest difference on a vehicle that has a mediocre 
ignition system to begin with (ie series rover or FORD).
    However, to recieve the best results you would need a complete 
system which also controls accuracy of timing signal, not just a hotter, 
longer spark. Usually this means a crankshaft sensor, replacement 
computer or new distributor. I would be suprised if Jacobs made a 
complete system for rover engines, just an add-on to a breaker system 
should give a cleaner burn but no huge HP or mileage gains.
     Hope that helped.
					Ronald

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 19:51:45 -0500
From: hilltop <hilltop@advantage.ca>
Subject: Series I Axle Inquiry

Hello All;
    Here's one for the old-timers. (Or we poor folk)
    Recall the rear axles on the Series I which displayed a flat centre 
hub in lieu of the dust cap an nut assembly (resembling the front axle) 
which eventually replaced them?
    It appears the shaft, bearing and casing are all pressed together in 
some wonderful albeit mysterious fashion. Since I now have need of 
replacing one of these bearings any insights as to the correct procedure 
would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
						Ronald

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 17:19:06 -0700
From: faurecm@halcyon.com (C. Marin Faure)
Subject: Re: Yukon Ho!

>Here is a proposed, tentative (other weasel-words)
> itinerary for next summer.  As for dates, I would either
>like to hit Dawson City in mid summer (June 21) or for
>Discovery Days (August 17-ish).  If this is acceptable as
>a starting point, we can then start more detailed planning.

>Dawson Creek-Fort Nelson-Watson Lake via Alaska Hwy
>Watson Lake-Ross River-Carmacks via Campbell Hwy
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>Watson Lake-Stewart/Hyder (get Hyderized?) and
>   Kitwanga to Highway 16 via Stewart-Cassiar Hwy

I and a friend made a similar trip in my 1973 Series III in 1977 with a
17-foot Grumman canoe on a homemade rack on the roof.  It was a great trip.
We spent the entire time in the Yukon, as we'd been in Alaska before and
found the Yukon Territory much more interesting.  Unfortunately, most of
the roads in that region suffer from pavement now.  The Cassiar Highway is
much more interesting than the Alaska Highway in my opinion, and if I were
to drive up there again (as opposed to flying which I do now) I would not
bother with the Alaska Highway at all but would drive east from Prince
George on the Yellowhead Highway to Terrace and go north on the Cassiar.

If you have the funds, a nice way to end the trip is to go west to Prince
Rupert after you come off the Cassiar going south and take the ferry down
the Inside Passage from Rupert to Port Hardy on Vancouver Island.  Then you
drive down Vancouver Island to Nanaimo where there are ferries to either
Vancouver or Tsawassen (sp?) just north of the BC-US border.  Or you can
continue down the island to Victoria, where you can catch a ferry from
Sydney to Anacortes in the US.  The run takes you right through the middle
of the San Juan Islands.

The trip down the Inside Passage is quite spectacular.  Taking a vehicle on
the boat can be pretty expensive, so you might want to inquire beforehand,
but it's a great way to finish up and beats the relatively boring drive
back down the Alaska Highway, highway 97, and highway 1 to Vancouver.  If
your ultimate destination is somewhere east, however, this may not be very
practical.

Have fun, and take LOTS of bug repellent and long sleeve shirts.  This
keeps the bugs busy eating the repellent, which they love and apparently
has no effect whatsoever on them, while the long-sleeve shirt helps keep
them from eating you after they've finished off the repellent.

C. Marin Faure
  1973 LR Series III 88
  1991 RR Vogue SE

------------------------------

From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Tyre Pressures
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 10:53:47 +0930 (CST)

David  R Scholes writes:
> My SWB SIII has 750 x 16 Olympic Trojan tyres on it. They're described on
> the tyre wall as a light truck tyre. The tyre wall doesn't actually give a
> recommended inflation pressure. Any suggestions as to the best pressure for
> on-road use?

The Trojans are a "traditional" bias or cross ply tyre, and are very 
similar to the original LR fitment.  The manual probably provides a 
reasonable starting point.

I'm guessing that these are either 6ply or 8ply tyres ( hopefully 6's on 
an 88")  I'd start around 26 - 28 PSI, and go from there.  Too low a 
pressure will result in the steering being heavy and the outside lugs 
wearing quickly, too high and the outside lugs wont even touch the road, 
centre wear will be accelerated.  Off road airing down to 16-18 will get 
good lug bite.

cheers

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: Replacement Seats
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 08:33:31 +-200
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Merf Radio/WIEZ Newsroom[SMTP:newsroom@acsworld.net] wrote:

Has anybody tried a high-back replacement seat for their Series Rover, =
such as the ones listed by "TRAKKERS" or B.L.R.S.Limited", as listed in =
the latest LRO.  --  or any other suggestions for seat replacements on a =
Series.
Have not tryed the high-back, but to protect my children 
against wipelash I have replaced with high-back second 
hand seats from a Ford Capri. This is the name used in 
europe, I do not know if it was the same in US. The 
front seats from this car is so narrow, that there is still room for a centre seat. For this I have used a front centre 
seat from my own LR, and put in a cubbybox instead. In Denmark it is nessesary to keep 3 seats, because of 
tax-regulations.
I got the 2 Capri seats from a scrapyard, prize $80 for both.

Happy Rovering

Bent Boehlers, Denmark.
86" 1955
110" 1983

------ =_NextPart_000_01BB93F2.6ECCB9E0

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 09:20:23 +0100 (BST)
From: "T. Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Cylinder Head removal

>That is lifting the head.
>And, yes, I am very positive I didn't forget to take out all the bolts.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>Could anyone give me a tip? Are there any points that I could use to lever
>it off?

Make sure that all the ignition circuit is disconnected; then flick the
engine over on the starter. The compression of the engine should break the
seal without resorting to levering which could damage the head.
Good luck!
Tom

Thomas D.I. Stevenson        gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station, Millport
Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland KA28 OEG

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 05:13:19 EDT
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Head removal

My usual (it's a bad sign when it's usual) head removal method is to use
the valve springs. If you leave the tappets until the head bolts are all
removed, or if needs be re-install the required bits of the tappet
assembly the compressed valve springs will uncompress themselves and
lift the head off.

BUT I have never had the head off a 2.25 lump so this may not be
possible...

Another plan:  Lever the bottom of the exhaust manifold against the
bracket that would hold the steering box if it were LHD.  But you
removed the manifold to make the head light enough to lift...
Bet it's LHD as well...

Another plan: I haven't tried this, but I have heard it suggested.
Put the plugs in, BUT NOT THE HT LEADS, make sure there is no fuel
in there (ie carb removed) and turn the starter.  You do not want the
engine to fire, just to use the compression to pop the head off.

I have a funny image of a headless LR in a garage with a head shaped
hole in the roof in mind at the moment!

Speak to a frenchman.  They had a quite inventive machine for head
removal in the revolution.

Have fun, Steve

PS My LR is finally on the road to recovery.  Priming the chassis has
started at last!!!!!

Steve Reddock, Xyratex        |  "NEVER QUESTION AN
Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450      |   ENGINEER'S OPINION,
IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P)            |   YOU THUNDERING MORON !"
Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com  |     - Dogbert 1996

------------------------------

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