[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter d | 41 | Re: WARN FW Hubs |
2 | newsroom@acsworld.net (M | 26 | Replacement Seats |
3 | dsticht@cyberportal.net | 12 | Green Laning |
4 | 12/4/95 [rsloan@titan.li | 9 | how to get the head off |
5 | 12/4/95 [rsloan@titan.li | 29 | Jacob's Electronics |
6 | 12/4/95 [rsloan@titan.li | 2 | [not specified] |
7 | Wdcockey@aol.com | 17 | Re: How do I get the head off? |
8 | RALPH@SMUGGITS.MHS.Compu | 17 | Re: Replacement Seats |
9 | johnliu@earthlink.net | 28 | WARN FW Hubs |
10 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 68 | Off with your head!! |
11 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 48 | Re: Off with your head!! |
12 | debrown@srp.gov | 58 | Slow progress on the 88's g-box. |
13 | Jan Schokker [janjan@xs4 | 38 | Re: How do I get the head off? |
14 | "Tom Rowe" [trowe@aae.wi | 33 | Re: Off with your head!! |
15 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 15 | Re: Off with your head!! |
16 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 19 | Re[2]: Off with your head!! |
17 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 17 | Re: Slow progress on the 88's g-box. |
18 | johnliu@earthlink.net | 15 | Replacement Seats |
19 | "Tom Rowe" [trowe@aae.wi | 23 | Re: Off with your head!! |
20 | ASFCO@aol.com | 14 | Torque settings |
21 | "Christopher H. Dow" [do | 16 | Re: Replacement Seats |
22 | ASFCO@aol.com | 21 | Warn M-11 FWH's |
23 | scholes@modemss.brisnet. | 9 | Tyre Pressures |
24 | Adrian Redmond [channel6 | 21 | Unofficial Land Rover Cook Book |
25 | myk [johnsonm@borg.com> | 21 | Re: Off with your head!! |
26 | David Place [dplace@SIRN | 30 | Rover duds |
27 | hilltop [hilltop@advanta | 28 | Re: Jacob's Electronics |
28 | hilltop [hilltop@advanta | 15 | Series I Axle Inquiry |
29 | faurecm@halcyon.com (C. | 51 | Re: Yukon Ho! |
30 | Daryl Webb [dwebb@waite. | 28 | Re: Tyre Pressures |
31 | bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Boh | 30 | RE: Replacement Seats |
32 | "T. Stevenson" [gbfv08@u | 20 | Cylinder Head removal |
33 | "Steve Reddock" [steve_r | 39 | Head removal |
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 13:59:57 +0200 From: wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter de Waal) Subject: Re: WARN FW Hubs Hi Daryl asks: >> and washer. Now what? It looks as if the stub shaft should pull straight >> out, but some moderate persuation with a hammer has so far achieved nothing. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] >swivel is dismantled. it should be possible to move it a small amount in >and out, but it definitely wont come out of the stub axle.... Oh my, this is too complex for ascii art, so a 1000 words will have to do... The FW hub is a cylinder, fastened to the wheel hub. After I took out the 6 bolts, the top cover came off. This is the bit with the selector on. But most of the cylinder is still on the wheel. It's loose, but doesn't slide off. The stub axle goes through the centre of this cylinder, to another bit that has splines on the outside. This bit is fastened to the stub axle fairly securely, and doesn't move, even after I removed the castle nut &c. And the large cylinder is trapped behind this bit. It looks as if this bit just slides over the stub axle, in the same way as the standard driving member. But it doesn't. Are the stub axles longer for FWHs? Is the bit I'm seeing an extension of the stub axle (i.e. part of the FWH) or the stub axle itself? If I undo the steering arm &c and remove the hub and everything I still won't know how to get the rest of the hub off. Thanks W -- Wouter de Waal Phone : +27 21 683 5490 Development Engineer Fax : +27 21 683 5435 CCII Systems Kenilworth, South Africa ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: newsroom@acsworld.net (Merf Radio/WIEZ Newsroom) Subject: Replacement Seats Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 10:13:56 -0400 Question of the day, as I continue to work on "Project: Spend all the = Money I Have, and More, on the LR" -- Has anybody tried a high-back replacement seat for their Series Rover, = such as the ones listed by "TRAKKERS" or B.L.R.S.Limited", as listed in = the latest LRO. -- or any other suggestions for seat replacements on a = Series. The seats on my are in eventual need of replacement <what isn't :-)>, = and I like the idea of some more upper back and neck support! Thanks for any ideas, and thanks to everyone who e-mailed responses to = my tire size questions. Nils Frederiksen No longer stuck in Central PA, thanks to my "Lan'Grover"! 1970 sIIa, 88", name change courtesy of my 3yr old...;-) ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dsticht@cyberportal.net Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 10:18:27 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Green Laning Would anyone be interested in some light green laning on Sat. 28, Sept.? This would be in Moultonboro, NH. Meeting abiut 10:00, picnic in the mountains with a view, then to the top of mt Shaw (3000'). No body damage. Dave Sticht '94 D90 '96 Disco ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 11:30:30 -0400 (EDT) From: 12/4/95 <rsloan@titan.liunet.edu> Subject: how to get the head off Try using a crow bar. I nearly got mine off with one shot:)! rich D90 #2948 "scarface" ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 11:44:05 -0400 (EDT) From: 12/4/95 <rsloan@titan.liunet.edu> Subject: Jacob's Electronics Has anyone on the list had any experiences they could relate about dealing with Jacob's Electronics? I read their ad boasting about increased performance, ie: increased horsepower, (about 8 on the average) increased miles to the gallon (here's where I started getting interested) and so on. The ad was in Peterson's 4wheel Drive Mag, I've seen it advertised there quite often back when I drove an early bronco, and i had thought about using the Power Pack (I think that's what they call it) on that rig. The whole thing is supposed to just tie right in with whatever setup the vehicle runs with now. There is some kind of computer (warning bells?) a new coil, plugs, and beefy wires. Probably some other stuff too but I don't remember. Someone I was aquainted with way back when got one and swore by it, so I'm wondering if any of the list members have any info. I'm most interested in reducing the amount of fuel my truck is guzzling, driving habits aside, I'd be willing to consider some kind of device like that to increase the mpg without having to relinquish "normal" traffic speeds. From standing to driving where I live is not adequate time for my D90 to "gently" accelerate. Also, I'm usually always late to wherever it is I'm going so I'm heavy on the pedal so to speak...regardless of how I drive though, if anyone has any experiences let's hear 'em! rich D90 #2948 "scarface" ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Wdcockey@aol.com Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 14:14:24 -0400 Subject: Re: How do I get the head off? Delete this item from my message on head removal. I was wrong (faulty memory) and 4cyl LRs don't have dowel pins. >2) There are several dowel pins which locate the head and prevent it from >sliding. So trying to knock it side to side to lossen it doesn't work. Try >knocking upward using a block of wood. The pins can also bind if you don't >lift evenly. Sorry about that, David Cockey Rochester, Michigan '60 SII PU awaiting its head ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: RALPH@SMUGGITS.MHS.CompuServe.COM Date: 26 Aug 96 14:39:22 EDT Subject: Re: Replacement Seats Nils, If you are willing to do a bit of work to get them to fit, I would reccomend replacing the seats with Recaros, or similar from another car as they are far more comfortable than any seat designed to fit the LR. If you get them second hand, they may well be cheaper too. The only issue is originality (and losing the middle seat.) Ralph 101 FC ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 12:28:01 -0700 (PDT) From: johnliu@earthlink.net Subject: WARN FW Hubs If you need more detail about the removal of your hubs let me know and I can scan an exploded drawing and email the image to you as a JPEG file, and/or narrate the process in more detail. The shiny driveshaft with a splined end that is sticking out of the Warn FWH body is the halfshaft and it goes all the way to the differential. To remove it, you need to remove the body of the Warn FWH unit (if you've removed all bolts, it should come off with gentle persuasion, e.g., rubber mallet), remove the two large nuts that are holding the hub assembly onto the stub axle, pull off the hub (which is different from the Warn FWH unit) and then unbolt the stub axle from the swivel housing. After you have stripped things down to the swivel housing, you can pull the halfshaft out. You will not have to remove the swivel housing or brake backing plate to get the halfshaft out. (I hope I'm remembering this correctly.) It is not a difficult process although you may encounter some rusted bolts and all the fun attendant to such discoveries. John Y. Liu johnliu@earthlink.net (via HP200LX and NetTamer) John Y. Liu `[1;32;45mNet-Tamer V 1.05.1 - Registered ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 96 15:42:33 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Subject: Off with your head!! Speaking of heads... I just got mine friday. It went back on with the "greatest of ease". Here's a quick tutorial on head maintenance... HOW TO PROPERLY RE-TORQUE THE HEAD BOLTS- Another 10 Step Tutorial by Dave Bobeck 1. Paint the entire engine. Loosen all the head bolts. This is so that when you retorque them, you will be "starting fresh". If you hear a whoosh when you loosen a bolt you must go to to step 2. Otherwise, go to step 2. 2. Remove all the head bolts. Look for oil and other nasties in the holes. If you see oil in the bottom of the holes then you must remove the head 3. Remove the head. You can now clean out all the holes in the top of the block Also a good time to decoke the pistons. 4. Inspect the valves. Bring the head to a machine shop to have them install hardened exhaust valves and seats. 5. Collect your newly reconditioned head, together with all the proper gaskets. 6. Get some 1/2" fine thread bolts and cut the heads off. Make sur they are plenty long. Cut a notch where the head used to be so that you can use a screwdriver to get em out. Place the new head gasket on there followed by the head. Put all the head bolts back in except for the five that hold down the rocker shaft. Twiddle 'em down so that they are just up against the head but not tight at all. 7. Place the rocker shaft in place and put the five head bolts in that hold it. Then put in the five small bolts that hold the rocker to the head. In doing this it is extremely important to try to drop at least one very small piece of hardware into some small hole in the head so that it cannot possibly be retrieved. If you think it may be retievable, than simply kknock it with a screwdriver so that it goes all the wayt down into the engine. 8. Now you are faced with a real challenge! Putting a head no is "easy stuff" so we thought we'd beef up the difficulty level here. You must now retieve the dropped Small Part. First climb under the truck. Remove the oil pan. This will give you a good hearty taste of the do-it-yourself ethic we all live for. Of course the aforementioned Small Part won't be in there! Dummy! Who said this was easy?! Now. Remove one of the side covers and retrieve the lost Small Part and replace the cover. Don't worry about the oil pan, you don't need that yet. 9. Go back ot step 6 and replace the head again. This time don't drop anything into the engine. You will have enough trouble re-assembling the valve gear since you are going to purposefully have it spring apart just before you install it. Try putting it together backwards the first time just so that you are sure how it's supposed to go. 10. Adjust all valves and replace all your senders, oil feed pipe dood-ads, hoses, etc. Invite Bill Adams to come over and reinstall your oil pan. Bill will be more than happy to cut you a custom sump gasket for no extra charge. It will surely be better than the original. That's it! You've now gone "beyond the oil change" and can consider yourelf a real, hgonest-to-god, no-bullshit, dyed-in-the-Ralph Lauren-Denim, Land Rover enthusiast... Cheers Dave B. 72 SIII "Almost there" ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 16:01:20 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: Re: Off with your head!! On Mon, 26 Aug 1996, Bobeck, David R. wrote: > Speaking of heads... or lack thereof... > 3. Remove the head. You can now clean out all the holes in the top of the block > Also a good time to decoke the pistons. 3a. After removing head bolts, and prying for a while with the upward pressure exerted by the valve springs, remember that you have not removed the oil pipe at the back of the head. Remove before you break it in half... > 10. Adjust all valves and replace all your senders, oil feed pipe dood-ads, Perfect! You remembered to replace the oil-feed pipe... Engine makes a curious gurgling sound if it isn't attached. 10a. If you have forgotten the oil feed pipe, have run the engine for a little while, realised all of a sudden what it was, you can flip a coin to see what you do next. Run 8 feet for the hose, turning it on full blast under the LR so the huge river of oil gets washed away before leaving a horrid mark on the girlfriends driveway, or shut the engine off and run for the hose.... etc etc... > That's it! You've now gone "beyond the oil change" and can consider yourelf a > real, hgonest-to-god, no-bullshit, dyed-in-the-Ralph Lauren-Denim, Land Rover > enthusiast... If the oil casister casing isn't on right, or your spin on adapter PH-8A filter isn't on tight, the sound of rain means that you don't run for cover, you run for the ignition key and/or the hose as in step 10a. Conclusion: rain-like sounds = you forgot the oil filter gurgling sounds = you forgot the oil feed pipe thingie Rgds, PS. The black concrete at the curb is from extra asphalt laid down when they paved the girlfrinds street last Fall, I firmly deny that it is blackened 30w50. We recycle that... <ahem> ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: debrown@srp.gov Date: 26 Aug 96 13:01:17 MST Subject: Slow progress on the 88's g-box. FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 Hello all, you probably won't remember this, but just over a year ago, I shattered the clutch on my '71 IIa 88. I have finally gathered most (there's always something more, so you can "never" say "never") of bits to put it all back together. This past weekend, I finally got the new clutch in, and managed to get the gearbox in BY MYSELF! Not because I was too prideful to ask for help, just that nobody was available to help. (And I was too impatient to wait for help!) I did have the assistance of my 16 year old son to place it "in" the LR, to where the front was on the frame cross member, and the rear was touching the driveway. This is most definitely NOT the recommended thing to do. I have numerous bruises on my thighs from supporting and pushing the rear of the g-box while trying to align it with the clutch and engine. I'm not the biggest of men, weighing in at 155 fully dressed with hiking boots on. As with many of my "home repairs" I had to do it twice. The first time I had the help of my son, but the clutch wouldn't disengage. The petal would stop about an inch from the floor. To make a LONG story short(er) this turned out to be a problem with the clutch withdrawal mechanism inside the front of the g-box. A misaligned bushing wouldn't allow the throwout bearing to travel fully forwards. Just thought you may be interested to know that it "can" be done single handed, but not easily. I tried using a weightlifting bar between the top of the dash and the bulkhead behind the seats with a rope slung around the g-box, and a tire iron to tighten the rope as a tourniquet. Almost running again, after over a year!!! Now, the parking brake, prop shafts, seat box, and floors. Then, back to the DMV for licensing! Dave (starting to get excited) Brown #=====# #========# _____l___ |___|__\___ |___|__|__\___ //__/__|__\___ | _ | |_ |} | _ | | |_ |} \__ - ____ - _|} "(_)""""(_)" "(_)"""""""(_)" (_) (_) 1971 "88" IIa 1970 "109" IIa '87 Range Rover LIC: LION B8 Historic plates rear Lock-Right Bilstein shocks Will be restored... Crane cam Optima battery Dave Brown OME HD springs SSB CB radio Phoenix Arizona USA (602) 820-8052 Hella lights (6) Flowmaster muffler Books, tools, knowledge, lodging, coffee... Pager: 602.275.2508 #6486 #=======# _________ "What lies behind us and what lies |__|__|__\___ //__/__|__\___ before us are tiny matters compared | _| | |_ |} \__ - ____ - _|} to what lies within us." "(_)""""""(_)" (_) (_) Ralph Waldo Emerson ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 22:20:53 +0200 From: Jan Schokker <janjan@xs4all.nl> Subject: Re: How do I get the head off? At 14:14 26-08-96 -0400, you wrote: Delete this item from my message on head removal. I was wrong (faulty memory) and 4cyl LRs don't have dowel pins. 2) There are several dowel pins which locate the head and prevent it from sliding. So trying to knock it side to side to lossen it doesn't work. Try knocking upward using a block of wood. The pins can also bind if you don't lift evenly. Sorry about that, David Cockey Rochester, Michigan David, You are forgiven. No problem. Thanks for the tips everyone. I started this job by reading the factory manual, so I am pretty sure I unbolted everything (yes, there is an oil pipe). Today someone gave me some pieces of hard wood. That should work better then what I used until now. Using the compression to lift the head sounds interresting. Maybe the combination of compression, a hoist, and some gentle tapping with a hammer will make it fly through the ceiling. I'll give it a go tomorrow. Jan. janjan@xs4all.nl De Woude, Netherlands. ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu> Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 15:08:58 -5 Subject: Re: Off with your head!! Snip > 10. Adjust all valves and replace all your senders, oil feed pipe dood-ads, > hoses, etc. Invite Bill Adams to come over and reinstall your oil pan. Bill will > be more than happy to cut you a custom sump gasket for no extra charge. It will > surely be better than the original. snip Dave, You left out one important step before replaceing the oil pan, which is; refill the engine with oil. Just in case there isn't enough already all over your (pick one or more) garage floor/driveway/yard/feet. *Then* you have Bill come over to reinstall the oil pan. Other than that one omission, it looks about right. At least that's the way I do it. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research Madison,WI, USA 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@aae.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 16:20:36 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: Re: Off with your head!! On Mon, 26 Aug 1996, Tom Rowe wrote: > You left out one important step before replaceing the oil pan, which > is; refill the engine with oil. Just in case there isn't enough > already all over your (pick one or more) garage floor/driveway/yard/feet. >. Refill the engine with oil? I'm missing something here. When the pan comes off it is full of oil, so when the pan goes back on the same engine oil is already to be used. You wouldn't want to shock the engine with different oil after such a delicate operation! ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 96 16:49:55 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Subject: Re[2]: Off with your head!! >. >>>> Refill the engine with oil? I'm missing something here. When the pan comes off it is full of oil, ...snip... You wouldn't want to shock the engine with different oil after such a delicate operation! Excuse me! Expert mechanics that we are, we wouldn't THINK of not draining the oil pan before removal! Also we ALWAYS replace the little copper sealing washer on the drain plug. OH, and we NEVER, ever, ever mix different oils, not even brands. Right guys? Right?...uh, guys?...uh never mind... :-):-) Dave Mr. Detail ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 96 16:53:14 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> Subject: Re: Slow progress on the 88's g-box. Dave Brown writes: I have numerous bruises on my thighs from supporting and pushing the rear of the g-box while trying to align it with the clutch and engine. Hmm. Ride 'em, cowboy! :-) Good luck. Dave B. Whatever floats your boat... ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 13:59:34 -0700 (PDT) From: johnliu@earthlink.net Subject: Replacement Seats I had second hand seats from a Porsche 914 in my LR. They were narrow enough that the center seat could stay. I think both seats cost $75 or so. These buckets really hold you in place when the Rover is pulling maximum lateral g's! :-) John Y. Liu johnliu@earthlink.net (via HP200LX and NetTamer) John Y. Liu `[1;37;47mNet-Tamer V 1.05.1 - Registered ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu> Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 16:04:44 -5 Subject: Re: Off with your head!! > Refill the engine with oil? I'm missing something here. When the pan comes off it is full of oil, so when the pan goes back on the same engine oil is already to be used. You wouldn't want to shock the engine with different oil after such a delicate operation! > Refill the engine with oil? I'm missing something here. When the Nope. When you remove the oil pan, you leave one corner bolt in so it tips over and pours into your face. Sheesh, some people don't know how to do anything!. ;-) Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research Madison,WI, USA 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@aae.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ASFCO@aol.com Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 17:08:29 -0400 Subject: Torque settings Does anyone know the correct torque setting for the front brake backing plate to stub axle bolts? 40 ft.lbs seems to stick in my mind for some reason , but I am unable to find this info in the books I have TIA Steve Bradke 72 S lll 88 ( for sale) 68 S lla 88...front end apart 96 Discovery SE-7 ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 14:16:00 -0700 From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org> Subject: Re: Replacement Seats They want 60 quid for shipping to San Francisco, so I decided to pursue other avenues. C At 10:13 AM 8/26/96 -0400, you wrote: >Question of the day, as I continue to work on "Project: Spend all the = >Money I Have, and More, on the LR" -- [ truncated by lro-digester (was 26 lines)] >thanks to my "Lan'Grover"! >1970 sIIa, 88", name change courtesy of my 3yr old...;-) ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ASFCO@aol.com Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 18:33:43 -0400 Subject: Warn M-11 FWH's Re-installed one of the FWH's on my '68 lla and I noticed when turning fom Lock to free, the hub only turns half way to "free" I " think" half way is enough to disengage the internal gears but am not sure I can't remember if they ever turned all the way 'round so the arrow was pointing to free or not Any suggestions as to what is preventing the lever from turning all the way to free? when it's apart it does turn all the way with no problems. Have I put it back on correctly? Don't want to take it apart if I don't have to :) Any help appreciated TIA Steve Bradke ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 09:02:55 +1000 From: scholes@modemss.brisnet.org.au (David R Scholes) Subject: Tyre Pressures My SWB SIII has 750 x 16 Olympic Trojan tyres on it. They're described on the tyre wall as a light truck tyre. The tyre wall doesn't actually give a recommended inflation pressure. Any suggestions as to the best pressure for on-road use? ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 00:58:08 -0700 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Unofficial Land Rover Cook Book Anyone interested in four-wheel drive off-raod cooking, see my homepage for details on how you can contribute to the craziest internet cookbook for Land Rover owners and cooks! I am planning to make a (english language) film about Land Rover Owners and our vehicles - anyon with ideas for sponsorship or funding, besides the obvious in Solihull, please forward ideas. Any good anecdotes about Land Rovers (four-wheeled or two legged) welcome. Cheers! Bon Appetite! Adrian Redmond http://home2.inet.tele.dk/channel6/ ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 19:29:24 -0400 From: myk <johnsonm@borg.com> Subject: Re: Off with your head!! At 04:04 PM 8/26/96 -5, you wrote: >> Refill the engine with oil? I'm missing something here. When the [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)] >tips over and pours into your face. >Sheesh, some people don't know how to do anything!. ;-) You guys must have been droped at birth. Everyone know british cars never have oil leftover (thats what that seal type thing is for, to control the leak to a slow steady stream). When I drop the pan it's always as dry as the sahara. Mike Johnson 74 SIII 88 (Chester) 174k daily driver 73 SIII 88 (Jezabel) everyone's gettin a piece http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 18:48:06 -0500 (CDT) From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca> Subject: Rover duds I found the best Land Rover T shirt ever here last week. It is dark Rover green with the word Simple on the front. All the writing is in the Land Rover yellow used on the old signes. On the back is a very fine Ser IIA 88 with no top. It has the lamp guards, side step and even a pair of little lift rings on the bumber. It is not just a line drawing, but a full art rendition of the IIA. It is made in Jamaica and the main label says Tultex. I don't know what these numbers mean, but they are on the label--RN68046 and CA 20832. It is a great shirt. The licence plate says simple. The vehicle has front hubs and is left hand drive. It is the best drawing I have seen on a shirt for a Land Rover. Also our local paper had an article saying that Waxoyl went into receivership and is now based in Florida. The original was Waxoyl Warranty Inc. of Cincinnati Ohio. The new owner of the product is Safeguard Distributors of Florida. Seems our consumers bureau issued a warning on them because they were not living up to warranty claims. One good note is that someone in Winnipeg got a settlement from them for $1200 for rust damage. Mark Perry who works for a newspaper might be able to get the wire reference on the article if anyone wants to know more about the company and the problems. (Mark, it was in Mike Ward's Column) Has anyone tried Paddocks in England for springs. They want 18 pounds for them and Merseyside says 24 pounds. Not a bad saving even with air shipments makeing it 3 times the quoted price, that is only about $100 a spring delivered in Canada. Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 19:44:03 -0500 From: hilltop <hilltop@advantage.ca> Subject: Re: Jacob's Electronics 12/4/95 wrote: > Has anyone on the list had any experiences they could relate about > dealing with Jacob's Electronics? [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > D90 #2948 "scarface" > Hello Rich; Jacobs has an excellent reputation with the racing and horse power enthusiasts. I have READ many articles on ignition upgrades and the performance improvements resulting from high perf. ignition systems are almost too good to believe. If the system helped correct a problem, be it ignition or poor mixture, etc. some engines jumped almost 140 horse! Note; these people were not after mileage but did mention it had improved. It will make the biggest difference on a vehicle that has a mediocre ignition system to begin with (ie series rover or FORD). However, to recieve the best results you would need a complete system which also controls accuracy of timing signal, not just a hotter, longer spark. Usually this means a crankshaft sensor, replacement computer or new distributor. I would be suprised if Jacobs made a complete system for rover engines, just an add-on to a breaker system should give a cleaner burn but no huge HP or mileage gains. Hope that helped. Ronald ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 19:51:45 -0500 From: hilltop <hilltop@advantage.ca> Subject: Series I Axle Inquiry Hello All; Here's one for the old-timers. (Or we poor folk) Recall the rear axles on the Series I which displayed a flat centre hub in lieu of the dust cap an nut assembly (resembling the front axle) which eventually replaced them? It appears the shaft, bearing and casing are all pressed together in some wonderful albeit mysterious fashion. Since I now have need of replacing one of these bearings any insights as to the correct procedure would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Ronald ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 17:19:06 -0700 From: faurecm@halcyon.com (C. Marin Faure) Subject: Re: Yukon Ho! >Here is a proposed, tentative (other weasel-words) > itinerary for next summer. As for dates, I would either >like to hit Dawson City in mid summer (June 21) or for >Discovery Days (August 17-ish). If this is acceptable as >a starting point, we can then start more detailed planning. >Dawson Creek-Fort Nelson-Watson Lake via Alaska Hwy >Watson Lake-Ross River-Carmacks via Campbell Hwy [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] >Watson Lake-Stewart/Hyder (get Hyderized?) and > Kitwanga to Highway 16 via Stewart-Cassiar Hwy I and a friend made a similar trip in my 1973 Series III in 1977 with a 17-foot Grumman canoe on a homemade rack on the roof. It was a great trip. We spent the entire time in the Yukon, as we'd been in Alaska before and found the Yukon Territory much more interesting. Unfortunately, most of the roads in that region suffer from pavement now. The Cassiar Highway is much more interesting than the Alaska Highway in my opinion, and if I were to drive up there again (as opposed to flying which I do now) I would not bother with the Alaska Highway at all but would drive east from Prince George on the Yellowhead Highway to Terrace and go north on the Cassiar. If you have the funds, a nice way to end the trip is to go west to Prince Rupert after you come off the Cassiar going south and take the ferry down the Inside Passage from Rupert to Port Hardy on Vancouver Island. Then you drive down Vancouver Island to Nanaimo where there are ferries to either Vancouver or Tsawassen (sp?) just north of the BC-US border. Or you can continue down the island to Victoria, where you can catch a ferry from Sydney to Anacortes in the US. The run takes you right through the middle of the San Juan Islands. The trip down the Inside Passage is quite spectacular. Taking a vehicle on the boat can be pretty expensive, so you might want to inquire beforehand, but it's a great way to finish up and beats the relatively boring drive back down the Alaska Highway, highway 97, and highway 1 to Vancouver. If your ultimate destination is somewhere east, however, this may not be very practical. Have fun, and take LOTS of bug repellent and long sleeve shirts. This keeps the bugs busy eating the repellent, which they love and apparently has no effect whatsoever on them, while the long-sleeve shirt helps keep them from eating you after they've finished off the repellent. C. Marin Faure 1973 LR Series III 88 1991 RR Vogue SE ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au> Subject: Re: Tyre Pressures Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 10:53:47 +0930 (CST) David R Scholes writes: > My SWB SIII has 750 x 16 Olympic Trojan tyres on it. They're described on > the tyre wall as a light truck tyre. The tyre wall doesn't actually give a > recommended inflation pressure. Any suggestions as to the best pressure for > on-road use? The Trojans are a "traditional" bias or cross ply tyre, and are very similar to the original LR fitment. The manual probably provides a reasonable starting point. I'm guessing that these are either 6ply or 8ply tyres ( hopefully 6's on an 88") I'd start around 26 - 28 PSI, and go from there. Too low a pressure will result in the steering being heavy and the outside lugs wearing quickly, too high and the outside lugs wont even touch the road, centre wear will be accelerated. Off road airing down to 16-18 will get good lug bite. cheers -- Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers) Subject: RE: Replacement Seats Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 08:33:31 +-200 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Merf Radio/WIEZ Newsroom[SMTP:newsroom@acsworld.net] wrote: Has anybody tried a high-back replacement seat for their Series Rover, = such as the ones listed by "TRAKKERS" or B.L.R.S.Limited", as listed in = the latest LRO. -- or any other suggestions for seat replacements on a = Series. Have not tryed the high-back, but to protect my children against wipelash I have replaced with high-back second hand seats from a Ford Capri. This is the name used in europe, I do not know if it was the same in US. The front seats from this car is so narrow, that there is still room for a centre seat. For this I have used a front centre seat from my own LR, and put in a cubbybox instead. In Denmark it is nessesary to keep 3 seats, because of tax-regulations. I got the 2 Capri seats from a scrapyard, prize $80 for both. Happy Rovering Bent Boehlers, Denmark. 86" 1955 110" 1983 ------ =_NextPart_000_01BB93F2.6ECCB9E0 ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 09:20:23 +0100 (BST) From: "T. Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk> Subject: Cylinder Head removal >That is lifting the head. >And, yes, I am very positive I didn't forget to take out all the bolts. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >Could anyone give me a tip? Are there any points that I could use to lever >it off? Make sure that all the ignition circuit is disconnected; then flick the engine over on the starter. The compression of the engine should break the seal without resorting to levering which could damage the head. Good luck! Tom Thomas D.I. Stevenson gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk University Marine Biological Station, Millport Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland KA28 OEG ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 05:13:19 EDT From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com> Subject: Head removal My usual (it's a bad sign when it's usual) head removal method is to use the valve springs. If you leave the tappets until the head bolts are all removed, or if needs be re-install the required bits of the tappet assembly the compressed valve springs will uncompress themselves and lift the head off. BUT I have never had the head off a 2.25 lump so this may not be possible... Another plan: Lever the bottom of the exhaust manifold against the bracket that would hold the steering box if it were LHD. But you removed the manifold to make the head light enough to lift... Bet it's LHD as well... Another plan: I haven't tried this, but I have heard it suggested. Put the plugs in, BUT NOT THE HT LEADS, make sure there is no fuel in there (ie carb removed) and turn the starter. You do not want the engine to fire, just to use the compression to pop the head off. I have a funny image of a headless LR in a garage with a head shaped hole in the roof in mind at the moment! Speak to a frenchman. They had a quite inventive machine for head removal in the revolution. Have fun, Steve PS My LR is finally on the road to recovery. Priming the chassis has started at last!!!!! Steve Reddock, Xyratex | "NEVER QUESTION AN Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450 | ENGINEER'S OPINION, IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P) | YOU THUNDERING MORON !" Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com | - Dogbert 1996 ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST Input: messages 33 lines 1431 [forwarded 104 whitespace 326] Output: lines 1084 [content 647 forwarded 58 (cut 46) whitespace 304] Land Rover Owner Subscription Information: * All new subscription requests are via the digest. * In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved (by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net Useful commands for this are 'index lro-digest' which returns a list of files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc. World Wide Web Sites start at http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/pages.html (shadow) http://www.Senie.com/billc/lr/pages.html If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net -B[ First Message | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960827 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Back | Forward | |
---|---|---|
Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.
|