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Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 07:15:49 -0400
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Technical Vocabulary

Hi all,

In the automotive/mechanical world, we all have seen that there are
many technical terms which are not intuitively obvious:  "Tapping" 
a hole isn't really tapping its cutting threads, "seating" brake
shoes has nothing to do with chairs and the like.

Yesterday I bought blind spot mirrors to install.  They look easy
enough to put on but The first line of the instructions state:
"Clean off area to be ibstalled."

Is ibstallation a special machining process?  Does one ibstall 
other items or just mirrors?  

There should be a technical dictionary. ;-)

Nate
You all know the rest

------------------------------

From: g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald)
Subject: Re: Land Rover Bicycle and related subjects.
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 12:39:28 GMT

On Sat, 24 Aug 1996 23:29:31 -0700, you wrote:

>I am trying to compile a European Land Rover Cook Book - hot meals which
>you can make on the exhauset manifold of a land rover - 

I think your ultimate recipe should use road kill.

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 17:02:06 +0200
From: Jan Schokker <janjan@xs4all.nl>
Subject: How do I get the head off?

Hello all,

A couple of weeks ago someone wrote about the "coughing" of his Landrover, 
caused by a burning valve. I guess the fuel ignites when the piston is still
going
up, giving a push in the wrong direction. 
I had exactly the same symptoms, very slowly getting worse during our recent
trip through Portugal and Spain (great trip, by the way. Spain is very
beautiful,  
and Landrovers are everywhere). 
After checking the compression I knew I have the same problem.
Only 2.5 Bar on number two! That explaines why I can't use the overdrive 
anymore the for last couple of weeks.
At the moment I am busy taking the head off, but the final part is giving
problems.
That is lifting the head.
And, yes, I am very positive I didn't forget to take out all the bolts.
Hitting the cilinderhead with a hammer and a piece of  wood is not moving
anything.
Could anyone give me a tip? Are there any points that I could use to lever
it off?
Is there some kind of trick, or do I just have to hit it a little bit harder?

Thanks for any input, Jan.

janjan@xs4all.nl
De Woude, Netherlands.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 08:30:41 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: How do I get the head off?

At  5:02 PM 8/25/96 +0200, Jan Schokker wrote:

>At the moment I am busy taking the head off, but the final part is giving
>problems.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
>Thanks for any input, Jan.
>janjan@xs4all.nl
>De Woude, Netherlands.

Jan which engine do you have in your Land Rover?

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 11:45:43 -0400
Subject: The original "Rover"...

John Dillingham wrote:
"How many of us know the first 'diamond' shape bicycle frame was introduced
by the Coventry Sewing Machine Co? They called it the Rover."
 
Didn't realize that about the shape, but another distinguishing feature of
that bicycle is that it was the first to use chain from pedal/crank to wheel
to transmit power.
If Rover does get into bike manufacture, I hope they have the good sense to
use Italian craftsmen, if they don't do it in the UK. I myself don't have
anything to do with Asian bicycles. If they make folding versions, that's
probably just what they'll do- fold!  Maybe they'll put "Rover Off-Road
Recovery Roller Skates" in the Ralph Lauren saddle bag for when the thing
collapses! Hey! They could name the bicycle the "Recovery"!  Don't get me
started on a rant... Really tho- they should use Henry James (UK) lugs and
Campagnolo components, and build something as good/rugged as their earlier
vehicles, IMO. The hardest part might be figuring out how to get the thing to
leak.....
see 'ya on the old road...
Jim '61 LR 88" SW  w/ 16's, OD 1 Bbl weber (econobox?)  "Nicky" <- getting
'gimpy'
       '63 Frejus (all 'Campy', from Wash. DC Capital Open Race, 1963)
        ?? Bottecchia, FS (all 'Campy', criterium frame, Columbus)
       '85 Ouellette (built to fit, all 'Campy')
LR...quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised! 

------------------------------

From: robot1@juno.com
Subject: Cooking
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 12:43:44 EDT

I don't know what temperatures a Rover generates, but I have found that I
can cook a couple of burgers w/onions and mushrooms in 1/2 hour of city
driving on the intake manifold of my Suburban.

Here's another gem: I call it Linus the Dip, after the gentleman who
invented it.
Ingredients:
1 lb ground chuck or hamburger
1medium vidalia onion
1 can Ro-Tel diced tomatoes with chilis
1 can chili beans in hot sauced
1 lb Velveeta Mild Mexican (petroleum by-product cheese food)

1) Brown 1 lb hamburger w/1 medium vidalia onion. Make sure hamburger is
well     crumbled. ( I use ground chuck for best results). 

2) Combine beef/onions with other ingredients in covered container ( I
use an old          pressure cooker because it has a tight fitting
lid)Attach container to intake      manifold.

3)  Stir/offroad until ingredients are mixed and cheese is melted.

Serve with tortilla chips. (can also be eaten on a bun like sloppy joe's)

(note: if you don't have anywhere to go, you can perform steps 2 & 3 in a
Crock Pot.)

This mixture looks BAD. It looks as though it has already been eaten
once. For those with cojones enough to try it, it is WONDERFUL, and about
a 4 on a 1-10 spicy scale. 
Careful the first time you try it; it gave my wife a case of Montezuma's
Revenge which lasted three hours (she ate the entire batch) Guaranteed to
make you a hit at your next  Rover picnic

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 22:43:24 +0200
From: Jan Schokker <janjan@xs4all.nl>
Subject: Re: How do I get the head off?

>>At the moment I am busy taking the head off, but the final part is giving
>>problems.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>TeriAnn
>twakeman@scruznet.com
Good question. The 2,25 5-bearing petrol of 1983.
Does this help?

Jan.

janjan@xs4all.nl
De Woude, Netherlands.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Aug 96 20:46:05 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: RR for Sale in MA

I was asked to post this : 

For Sale 1987 RR. Green, 250K miles. New engine fitted some time ago. 

Vehicle is not running because a stud off the timing chain cover came lose and 
hit the fan, broke that and forced the fan into the radiator. Vehicle will 
need approx. $2000 to make good. Owner is thinking of selling and is 
considering offers. Vehicle is currently sitting at DAP, owner lives in 
Holyoke MA. Not sure of asking price. 

This RR was the first imported into the Northeast !!!! 

Call Bill Finn @ 413 536 5261

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 18:26:20 -0400
Subject: Re: How do I get the head off?

Does the five bearing engine have the external line to oil feed the rockers?
Did you remember to undo it? I can't imagine gasket sticking, but if you have
all eighteen blots out and the oil line off, perhaps pry ever so gently on
some exposed corner of the head!
Cheers!! John Dillingham

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 20:40:44 -0400
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: LR sighting: North of Baltimore

Hi all,

Saw a 88" (possibly 90") headed north on I-83 on Sunday evening.  It was blue up 
to the roof line which was white, with alpine windows, sunroof and external 
rollbar along the roofline (like a Defender).  The front had a Defender grill
but the badge said "Land Rover" not "Defender".  The lights on the rear
were three across the bottom of the rear panel.  

It was traveling in the mid 60 mph range and was driven by a young woman. She 
exited at the Belfast exit, clearly a well maintained vehicle.

Anybody familiar with this Rover?  Is this a SIII with body updates?

Nate Dunsmore
Rocking Horse Farm
Boring, MD 21020
dunsmo19@us.net

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 20:50:26 -0400
Subject: Subscriber Inquiry...

Sorry for no LR content, but I was wondering if Stephen Brown was successful
in his move from New Mexico to Vermont? (Oh, LR content- he was going to tow
his 88" behind a truck). If so, welcome! Get in touch if you need to know
where anything is around here! Offroading almost daily in the woodlot...
see 'ya on the old road...
Jim '61 LR 88" SW  w/ 16's, OD 1 Bbl weber (econobox?)  "Nicky"  <- getting
'gimpy'
jdolan2109@aol.com
LR...quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised!  

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Aug 96 20:46:05 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: RR for Sale in MA

I was asked to post this : 

For Sale 1987 RR. Green, 250K miles. New engine fitted some time ago. 

Vehicle is not running because a stud off the timing chain cover came lose and 
hit the fan, broke that and forced the fan into the radiator. Vehicle will 
need approx. $2000 to make good. Owner is thinking of selling and is 
considering offers. Vehicle is currently sitting at DAP, owner lives in 
Holyoke MA. Not sure of asking price. 

This RR was the first imported into the Northeast !!!! 

Call Bill Finn @ 413 536 5261

------------------------------

From: dsticht@cyberportal.net
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 21:18:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RR for sale

FYI..Saw today (Sunday), at Mariano Motors (1 800 245 1345) Concord NH, a 1993 
white RR 40K miles? listed for $30K. Was just riding by and saw it out front.
Dave Sticht

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 18:20:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (Clinton D. Coates)
Subject: Yukon ho!

Yukon Ho!

Here is a proposed, tentative (other weasel-words)
 itinerary for next summer.  As for dates, I would either
like to hit Dawson City in mid summer (June 21) or for 
Discovery Days (August 17-ish).  If this is acceptable as
a starting point, we can then start more detailed planning.

Does anyone know how to set up a quick and dirty mailer?
I *might* be able to do a multiple mail thingy on my 
freenet account, but my hopes are not very high...

Dawson Creek-Fort Nelson-Watson Lake via Alaska Hwy
Watson Lake-Ross River-Carmacks via Campbell Hwy
Dawson City
Tok (bang around in Alaska for a while)
Haines Juncion-Whitehorse
Whitehorse-Watson Lake via Alaska Hwy
Watson Lake-Stewart/Hyder (get Hyderized?) and
   Kitwanga to Highway 16 via Stewart-Cassiar Hwy
Hwy 16 to "home" wherever that is!

Comments/suggestions would be appreciated!

copy to:
Dixon Kenner dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca
Granville Pool    gpool@pacific.net
Robert Davis    CarDoctor@gnn.com
Rick Robinson mage@cia.com
Richard Marsden     marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk
Gordon Rea     grea@net.gov.bc.ca
Jon R. Haskell jhaskell@iquest.net
Mark Perry      rxq281@freenet.mb.ca
Quintin Aspin QROVER80@aol.com

--
 __x___x_  /    Clinton D. Coates  uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca    
|__|__|__\/__   
|     |   |_ |  *Emerson* 61 lwb pickup.....mostly runs
  (_)"""""(_)"  *If it doesn't leak, its not a Land Rover*

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 23:00:54 -0400
Subject: Re: How do I get the head off?

Jan is having difficulties removing his head (actually the head of his LRs
'83 2.25 petrol engine).
1) Double check that all bolts are removed. I believe there are 18 head bolts
in all, but someone else might check. The rocker arm assembly must be removed
to access several. BTW, don't forget the oil line.
2) There are several dowel pins which locate the head and prevent it from
sliding. So trying to knock it side to side to lossen it doesn't work. Try
knocking upward using a block of wood. The pins can also bind if you don't
lift evenly.
3) If an overhead hoist is available, hook a chain to the head the lifting
brackets at either end of the head and hoist. I recently used those brackets
to remove an engine with a "cherry picker", then left the chain in place
while I unbolted the head. No problem separating head and block.
4) Use compression to lift head. Rotate crankshaft so timing mark is near
TDC. Then identify which two cylinders are at TDC, should be 1 and 4. Now you
want spark plugs in other cylinders (2 & 3) which should be bottom dead
center, but not in those at TDC. Now rotate crank 1/2 revolution and
compression should lift head. Or use an adaptor and compressed air into the
cylinder to do the same. Of course if you have a badly blown head gasket or
shot valves this may not work.
5) Don't use anything to lever between head and block. But if you must I have
sucessfully tapped a thin steel scraper into the head/block joint at a
corner, well away from cylinder bores, oil drains, coolant passages, etc. and
then used that to gently pry.
Not a desirable method.
6) Recheck for overlooked bolt, etc.

Good luck,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Aug 1996 23:03:22 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Left wing/right wing

T. F. Mills wrote:

>one on the left and one on the right.  (and the driver is left or right of
>center, pretty much dependent on your country's former relationship with the
>UK...

Uh...I think *all* of our Rover ancestors were "centrist" (as in the 
center-position prototypes)....  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *----1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7 ----*

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 07:57:25 +0200
From: wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter de Waal)
Subject: WARN FW Hubs

Hi all

I bought a set of axles, mainly for the chrome balls and the WARN free wheel
hubs. Can anybody tell me how to remove the hubs?

I've removed the 6 long bolts and the cover. Also the split pin, castle nut
and washer. Now what? It looks as if the stub shaft should pull straight
out, but some moderate persuation with a hammer has so far achieved nothing.
I have a bigger hammer, but I don't want to break anything :-)

Has anybody got an exploded drawing, or maybe assembly instructions, for
these goodies? Can you fax it to me?

Thanks!

Wouter
--
Wouter de Waal        Phone : +27 21 683 5490
Development Engineer  Fax   : +27 21 683 5435
CCII Systems
Kenilworth, South Africa

------------------------------

From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de
Subject: strange noise on 2.5D (valves??)
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 08:20:31 +0200 (METDST)

Hello folks,
first I want to apologize for wasting bandwidth and posting this to the 
leafsprung and to the coilsprung list.

My 2.5D had a little noise from the point when I bought it at 56.000km that
I thought were deajusted valves. First it was rather quiet and I didn't bother
much about it. Now I have had my valves ajusted about a month ago and the 
noise is still there and gradually getting a little louder. 
It's not there in idle and loudest at medium revs and probably getting hidden
my the engine noise at high revs. I didn't notice any corelation to engine 
temperature. One further problem is that it isn't always there. One day I
think I should really have it checked out and the next it's not hearable at all.
I suspect something in the valve drive (how is that shaft called that does this?).
But I'm not sure at all.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Franz, getting worried
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                 tbr1102@sunmail.lrz-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: WARN FW Hubs
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 16:43:20 +0930 (CST)

Wouter de Waal writes:
> I've removed the 6 long bolts and the cover. Also the split pin, castle nut
> and washer. Now what? It looks as if the stub shaft should pull straight
> out, but some moderate persuation with a hammer has so far achieved nothing.
> I have a bigger hammer, but I don't want to break anything :-)

I'm not 100% sure of just what the problem is here.  the stub you mention 
sounds like the axle itself.  you can not remove this until the whole 
swivel is dismantled. it should be possible to move it a small amount in 
and out, but it definitely wont come out of the stub axle.... 

If this is your objective you now need to remove the swivel ball seals 
and the top and bottom swivel pins (and other assorted bits).  you can 
then remove the outer housing revealing the uni-joint and axles

cheers
-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

From: philippe.carchon@rug.ac.be
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 11:37:38 +0200
Subject: LR

Few weeks ago somebody wrote: 'what started as a minor repair turned out as 
a complete rebuild of...'
Now I know what this means: what started as a a stupid change of the joint 
washer paper of the steering box turns out to be a complete rebuild of the 
steering assembly aaaaaghhh...  

Philippe Carchon
'81 Lightweight
Ghent, Belgium
Marnix Vangheluwe
Laboratory for Biological Research in Aquatic Pollution
J. Plateaustraat 22
University Ghent
9000 Gent, Belgium
T:  32 9 264 37 66
F:  32 9 264 41 99
E mail: marnix.vangheluwe@rug.ac.be

------------------------------

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