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Date: Thu, 22 Aug 96 07:50:45 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Fly wheel Bush

is it replaced. Does anyone have the dimensions for this bush.

I don't have the dimensions anymore since I used the old one as a driver for 
installing/ removing u joints...

Removal is the opposite of installation...:-)
Actually, just get a socket that is slightly smaller than the bush and whack it 
out with a hammer. Shouldn't take a whole lot of muscle. The new should drive 
fairly easily as well, and it doesn't require reaming at least mine didn't.
You may be able to source one at the local bearing supplier but you may be 
better off just getting it from a parts house, as they aren't real steep in 
price.

Dave B.
Arlington VA
72 SIII SWB...almost there

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Aug 96 8:13:48 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: 15W40 oil

Sorry, it's just for us lucky diesel owners.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Aug 96 8:33:07 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Geoffrey Said's Maltese diesel

>From all that you've told us, it appears as though everything is pretty 
much normal. I assume that you recently bought this truck. If so, be sure 
to keep up routine maintenance and use good quality diesel fuel. 99.9% of 
all diesel problems are caused by bad fuel, so keep good diesel in the 
tank and change the filters twice a year. 
Engine oil seeps out of every crack and crevice in my diesel, but even so 
it seems to use very little oil. The rear main seal was replaced last 
winter, and that had a lot to do with oil use.
Be sure to change the oil in the air filter when you change engine oil.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Aug 96 8:40:23 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: 15W40 oil...more info

	Oil is graded in several ways, but you can determine application by 
looking for a letter code on the container such as SG, CD, and so on. 
These refer to Spark(S) or Compression(C) ignited engines. I think the 
latest SAE compression rating is G and for spark it's E  or F. I don't 
recall. Anyway by matching your engine's requirement by letter code to 
the oil in question you can figure out if you can run it in your engine. 
15W40 only carries codes like CD, CG and such, so it's not for spark 
ignited engines.
Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 22 Aug 96  8:46:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Music, and tea, and spare tires(tyres?)

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 08:08:23 -5
Subject: Re: Music  and spare tires(tyres?)

> >Dragging out that music thread again, do you know what the difference
between a cat and a bagpipe? Nobody yells if you slice up a bagpipe with
> >a butcher's knife.
-
But I wouldn't want a bagpipe in my AAAA.

snip
> I've never seen a full-moon cap that was 16" across - that would be a perfect 
> solution, though.
I just saw one (four, actually) the other day on a Ford PU. I *think* 
they were 16", but I'm not sure. They seemed like a good idea for 
during mud season. But as I thought about it I remembered I always 
had the biggest problem of mud buildup on the inside of the wheels.

I've never really had a problem with the spare cover flapping, just 
collecting water. But to solve either, how about just a block of wood? 
Then you'll also have a wheel chock if needed.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: The bush in the flywheel
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 96 09:10:00 DST

I was just wondering how do you remove the bush from the fly wheel and how
is it replaced. Does anyone have the dimensions for this bush.

Thanks in advance.
Miroslav Belik

I don't have the dimensions handy but can tell you how to remove it.
1 Find a length of bar that is a tight fit in the bush. (about 8 inches 
long)
(Not too tight but a good fit with no clearance)
2 Fill the bush with thick grease.
3 Put the bar into the end of the bush
4 Drive bar into bush with a hammer
All things being equal the bush will come out of the flywheel and slide up 
the bar driven by the pressure you create with the grease. You may require 
some experimentation to get this to work. I've also used a wooden drift and 
a leather washer to achieve the same result. The object of the exercise is 
to create a pressure behind the bush to force it out. YMMV    

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Aug 96 09:19:44 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@INETMAIL.ushmm.org>
Subject: For Sale - The wife says I have to clean up....

     

Dave, could you post this to the list for me? I want this to get to the Digest, 
and thhanks to Notes mail, my postings get snipped...
Please use the title above. Thanks, ajr

....and some of this stuff has to go before I do.

This is Al Richer, alan_richer@crd.lotus.com. Dave Bobeck is kind enough to 
post this for me, as my mailer is getting stripped of content for the Digest, 
and I want slightly better distribution on this...

All items are in the Chelmsford, Ma. USA area, and I'd prefer pickup on the 
larger bits... and trades are welcome, as are offers if you don't like the 
prices.

1. Series II cylinder head

It's a real, live Series II (not IIA) cylinder head, came as part of an engine 
I bought with my truck when I purchased it originally. At present, it's a 
stripped head with no rocker gear, but the valves and guides are in place. No 
cracks as far as I can tell, and the engine it came off only had about 40K 
miles on it. (the block is beautiful, and that I'm keeping!) $100 plus shipping.

2. Series II front cover

This is a nice, clesn Series II front cover that came off the same engine as 
above. The oil seal is hard as a rock, but it's in nice shape otherwise. No 
water pump.
$25 plus shipping

3. Door latches, 1969 thru 71 type - 2 (1 each right and left)

These are the hook-type latches that are no longer availabe from RN, LR or 
anyone else. I ended up with them and figured someone could use them who wants 
to do a clean restoration on a car of this age. $20. plus shipping for the pair.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Aug 96 09:41:03 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: The bush in the flywheel

....

>>>>2 Fill the bush with thick grease.
>>>>3 Put the bar into the end of the bush
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>>>>a leather washer to achieve the same result. The object of the exercise is 
>>>>o create a pressure behind the bush to force it out. YMMV    

Well, like, if you're going to take the engine or gearbox out to get to the damn
thing then you may (unless you're a glutton for punishment) take off the clutch 
and have a look at it. At that point it's only six or eight bolts to remove the 
flywheel, and just knock the silly bushing out the other side...
There's certainly no reason why you would replace JUST the bushing, unless you 
already did the clutch and neglected the bushing and now you're in there again, 
in which case I pity you...

Dave "whatever..." B.    

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 21:33:09 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: Re: 15W40 oil

David wrote:
> Has anyone tried the 15W40 in their Ser vehicles, and how did it work
> out?.
I use 20W50 and it still leaks :-)

Cheers, Greg

------------------------------

From: RALPH@SMUGGITS.MHS.CompuServe.COM
Date: 22 Aug 96 10:12:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Weber conversions for v8

With reference to..

> He said that he remembered several years ago one of the LR mags doing 
an

> article on a Weber conversion for the V8 that resulted in much improved

> power, torque and fuel consumption.

> I had to admit knowing nothing about this but said somebody on the list

> would probably be able to help.

> Can anybody remember this or better yet know of details on where one is

> available?

I can certainly remember it. It was Mike Scott ex-awdc rights of way

officer. He had someone machine the penthouse off the standard v8

manifold and fit a wedge shaped plate to bolt the weber to. The weber

used was one off a ford 3l v6. Apparently the engine had a hot cam,

and when raceing with the standard su setup would give only single

figures for fuel consumption. With the weber it gave better power low

and mid range, but suffered slightly from lack of breath at max rpm. 

Fuel consumption was improved considerably. 

The su setup is adaquate with the standard engine, but literaly

strangles a well tuned 'hot' engine. The real way to go is with the

offenhauser manifold and holly carb' set - IMO.<<

I am going to have my carbs serviced in the near future, but in the 
eternal quest for smoother running, more power and better fuel economy I 
am considering fitting a holley carb on an aftermarket (maybe Edelbrock) 
manifold (also so I don't have to worry about balancing the carbs.) The 
two things I wonder are what, if any improvement I will get from this and 
also how widely used the holley carbs are, I don't want to be stuck 
without spare parts.

Any comments?

Ralph

101 FC.  

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 08:30:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (Clinton D. Coates)
Subject: SI 80" advice

I have located an early 51 or 52
80" possibly for sale.  It is all
there
-the body is complete but pretty rough,
 possibly needing some replacement panels
 fabricated.
-frame is rusty, however it appears to
 be mostly surface???!!!
-springs have sagged so that the shackles
 bind on the frame
-no brakes
-the present owner (inherited the truck with
 property) fires it up twice a year to drive
 it around a bit.  He says the motor "sounds
 like a well oiled sewing machine" and the
 drive train has a fair bit of slop in it.
-rear x-member is bashed in on one side, but
 lookes like it could be pulled out ok.
-no idea of condition of diffs and other axle
 internals

I think I can get him to sell for 5-700 bucks.
Is it worth it?

TIA

Clinton

PS anyone have a good OD layshaft and perhaps
laygear for sale?

--
 __x___x_  /    Clinton D. Coates  uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca    
|__|__|__\/__   
|     |   |_ |  *Emerson* 61 lwb pickup.....mostly runs
  (_)"""""(_)"  *If it doesn't leak, its not a Land Rover*

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 12:08:34 -0400
Subject: Re: 15W40 oil

>Has anyone tried the 15W40 in their Ser vehicles, and how did it work 
>out?  I saw some in the U.S. last week but I haven't seen it in Canada 
>before.  Is it just for Diesel engines or can it be run in petrol engines 
>without the increased oil pressure pushing the seals out?

The SIIA instruction manual reprint (LSM 64) reccomends for year-round use in
the British Isles then-current engine oils with viscosities of 15W/50,
10W/40, 10W/30 and 15W/40 depending on refiner. Haynes reccommends 10W40 to
20W50. So 15W40 should be fine. So the visosity shouldn't cause any problems.
Maximum oil pressure should be regulated by the relief valve in the oil pump.

Basic refined oil "thins" as the temperature increases. Multi-weight oils are
intended to reduce the thinning. So with a 15W40 oil your engine should start
in the winter as if it had 15W oil, and run at normal operating temperature
as if it had 40W oil.

Engine oils should for spark ignition (gasoline) engines have a rating
starting with an "S" such as "SG" (I'm not sure what the latest is) and for
compression ignition (diesel) engines a rating starting with a "C". Most
readily available oils have both ratings. The latest oil rating in NA is the
API "Starburst" symbol containing the words "certified for gasoline engines".
Any oil with a gasoline/petrol certification/rating should be fine for
gasoline/petrol series LRs.

David Cockey
(Above are my personal opinions)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 18:42:21 +0200
From: Christopher Schembri <chrissch@dream.vol.net.mt>
Subject: Lookign for advise on a used D110

Hello people,

I wonder if anyone could help me. I'm new to Land Rovering and I have
recently been
shown a used Land Rover D110, with a standard diesel 2.5 engine, power
steering and with a milage of 60,000 miles. The body is good. The asking
price is Pounds Sterling 8,550 
(about US Dollar 13,344). Is the price expensive, cheap, reasonable ?

Also, at what particular details should I look and inspect ?

Thanks

Christopher Schembri

chrissch@vol.net.mt

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 13:30:48
From: KAACPA@gnn.com (KEITH ARMSTRONG, CPA)
Subject: 1980 Rover SD-1 / 3500 FS

Hi All,

While I'm curently on the cso list (Disco), I need to sell/trade 
the SD-1. 

Since we bought the Disco, it just hasn't seen its share of road 
time.  Then my buddy goes and gets his old SIII 88 back and lets me 
drive it!  How mean can a guy get!

Short story...Mom says, "get rid of the SD1 and get yourself a 
Series."

You know what it is right, 5-door hatchback, power windows, brakes, 
a/c, sunroof, 5-sp.  69K miles, 5 original alloy wheels.  New paint 
(Jaguar met. green), shocks, struts about 4years and 15,000 miles 
ago.

Needs exhaust work, interior upholstery & headliner.

So either throw some money at me (lets start ~$3,900) or show me a 
SII/SIIa/SIIb, etc. that you want to trade!

Keith A. Armstrong

515.224.7640w   515.274.6506h
West Des Moines, IA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 19:03:38
From: GeorgeEsq@gnn.com (George S. Szydlowski)
Subject: RE: D90 steering wheels

>Date:	Wed, 21 Aug 1996 21:02:47 -0500
>From:	Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 29 lines)]
>design, suggested by Franz, but there may not be one on the island.
>Cheers
>Allan

for your info I have a motolita wheel and hub on my 73 sIII. I bought a 
spare wheel from rovers north and had the bushing cut out and pressed in to 
the motolita hub.  If you are interested, I'll sell you my old wheel for $20 
plus shipping and you can try the same.  g.s.s.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 16:45:24 -0500 (CDT)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: Engine Temp Thermal Switches (fwd)

Sincerely,

Ray Harder 

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 96 09:39:35 -0700
From: David Lambdin <dlambdin@filoli.com>
Subject: Engine Temp Thermal Switches

Hello all,

Picked this off the net, sounds like the greatest thing
since sliced bread.  I didn't write it credits included.

Dave "da 74 bus man"

HEATGARD

Avoid expensive engine damage with this homemade monitoring device

by Glen Deibert
<published in Motorhome magazine, but i can't tell which year/month>

When I asked my wife and son how often they monitor the instrument
gauges while driving our motorhome, I got two blank looks.  This is
probably true for many drivers.  Gauges should alert the driver that
something is happening, but by the time they are noticed, damage may
already have occurred.  Even "idiot lights" can go unnoticed until it
is too late.

Most drivers cannot constantly monitor their instruments, especially
in traffic or on winding roads.  However, heat damage can rapidly
occur during high-load conditions, such as hill climbing or towing
(especially if the engine air conditioner is on).  Damaging temperatures
can also be quickly reached if there is a failure in any part of the
cooling system.  Loss of oil pressure will have a secondary effect of
an increase in engine temperature.

I have designed a device I call "Heatgard" that supplements the
coolant's temperature guage on my motorhome.  Heatgard constantly
monitors my engine electronically for high-coolant temperatures.  It
relieves a driver of constantly monitoring coolant temperature and is
especially usedful when traveling in a scenic or busy area where the
driver cannot look away from the road to glance at the instrument
panel.  The monitor does it for you.

Description
The monitoring circuit uses two Snap Action thermal switches (also
known as sensors), which are glued to the rear of one of the engine's
cylinder heads (this should be the hot spot of the engine).  The sensors
monitor for two different temperatures.

One of the thermal switches will close when the lower of two
temperatures is reached, causing a red light-emitting diode (LED) on
the monitor panel to flash.  If the driver doesn't catch this warning
and take appropriate action, the second switch closes when the higher
temperature is reached (this causes a second red LED to illuminate
steadily and activates a two-tone audible alarm).  The driver is thus
alerted that it is time to take immediate action or suffer engine
damage.

The maximum, or red line, reading for the existing coolant temperature
gauge is 265 degrees F.  An actuating temperature of 248 degrees F was
selected for the flashing LED and 257 degrees for the audible/visual
alarm.  With these temperature limits, you should have a little time
to start doing something to decrease the coolant temperature.  This can
include immedicately turning on the heater (not defroster) full blast,
and taking the load off the engine by pulling off the road and letting
the engine run at a high idle in park.  Do not turn the engine off
until you check for coolant loss.

When the rig is safely away from traffic, immediately look under the
engine for coolant loss.  If you see fluid pouring down, or smell the
characteristic odor of hot coolant, it is probable that you have a
leak.  If you have lost a lot of coolant, idling will not help cool
the engine.  In this case, shut down the engine right away.  If the
electric auxiliary cooling fan only runs when the key is on, leave the
ignition switch in the run position after the engine stops ... this
may help cool the system.

Circuit Design
Upon starting the vehicle, with the ignition switch on, the system's
green LED will illuminate to indicate the circuit is functional.  This
is the ony LED that should ever illuminate unless there is an over-
heating condition.  If 248 degrees F is reached, the first LED will
flash.  This indicates the engine temperature is approaching an unsafe
operating range.  The drive can then take appropriate action to lower
the temperature.  As the temperature reaches approximately 257 degrees
F, the second LED and an pulsating audible alarm activates.  Immediate
action must be taken to prevent engine damage.

Snap Action switches are available with various temperature settings.
We selected the switch temperature ratings based on a coolant 50/50
percent mixture of water and antifreeze and a 15-psi radiator cap,
which is the most common setup.  This gives a boiling point of about
260 degrees F.

There is a time lag for the thermal switch to reset when the engine
temperature is reduced.  After taking action to reduce engine
temperature, the driver may turn off the circuit to silence the alarm,
but continue to monitor the gauge.

Installation
The three wires should be connected to the thermal switches before they
are attached to the cylinder heads.  Do this to ensure that you have
the correct switch connected to the correct wire.

Working in the engine compartment, choose a flat spot near the rear
of a cylinder head that is away from the exhaust manifold and clean
the spot thoroughly.  Apply  Delta Bond adhesive  (or equivalent) to
this spot and push the Snap Action switch into the adhesive.  Form
the adhesive to hold the switch securely to the cylinder head.  Ensure
that the flat part of the Snap Action switch is tight against the
cylinder head.  Allow the adhesive to dry several hours before starting
the engine.  (NOTE: Products other than Delta Bond thermal adhesive,
such as JB Weld, might work; however, these may not transfer heat as
well.)

In addition to the items shown in the parts list, you will need some
lightweight wire (18 or 20 gauge) and some connectors.  Although some
skill and basic electrical tools are required to construct this circuit,
all wiring is straightforward.  The only critical area is connecting
the LEDs and the alarm.  They are polarity-sensitive, and, to function,
they must be wired as shown in Figures 1A and 1B.

After the circuit is built, it may be tested by applying power from a
9-volt battery to the power and ground wires.  Figure 3 shows how to
short the leads to check the action of the LEDs.  Turn on the Heatgard
and momentarily short together the three leads that will be fastened
to the thermal switches ... both red and green LEDs should light and
the audible alarm should sound.  Then, short out the higher temperature
switch ... the nonflashing LED should light and the audible alarm
should sound.

Mounting Display
Mount the monitor display panel under the edge of the dash or at any
other convenient location that is readily visible to the driver.  Attach
the monitor panel with adhesive hook and loop fasteners or a general-
purpose adhesive such as  Goop.

Construct the monitor panel from a small plastic box or scraps from the
parts bin.  We made our monitor display panel from a 3-inch long scrap
section of a plastic rain gutter downspout.  Cut until you get a 90
degree angle mount, then fasten the completed Heatgard to the chosen
location.  If plastic downspout is not available, it should not be
too difficult to obtain a plastic box that will allow mounting of the
electrical parts and mounting to the dashboard.

The completed unit should have five wires coming from it.  Three will
go to the thermal switches, one to a ground and one to ignition-switched
12 volts DC. Next, route the wiring to the vehicle fuse block for power
and ground, and to the engine compartment for connecting to the thermal
switches.  Connect all wires according to the circuit diagram and you
are finished.

Alternative Display
Figures 2A and 2B show a simpler circuit for those who don't feel that
they need two warning LEDs and an audible alarm.  This monitor uses the
audible alarm only and a green LED to show that the ciruict is active.

Parts List
Snap Action Switch (Thermal Sensors):
   SAS120 A (248 degrees F) .............................. $10
   SAS125 A (257 degrees F) .............................. $10
      Thermo Disc Incorporated
      P. O. Box 3303
      1981 Port City Boulevard
      Muskegon, MI 49443
      (616) 777-2602

Radio Shack Catalog Numbers  (total under $20)
  Piezo Alarm (dual tone) ...................... 273-070
  Resisters (3 @ 470 ohms, 0.5 watt) ........... 271-019
  Switch SPST push on/push off ................. 275-011
  LED blinking red ............................. 276-036
  LED red high brightness ...................... 276-066
  LED green .................................... 276-011
  Fuse and fuse holder (0.25 amp) .............. 270-1238

Adhesive
  Delta Bond  152 or 155 ................................. $2
    Newark Electronics
    3737 Executive Center Drive
    Austin, TX 78731-1635
    (512) 338-0287

========================================================================
Figure 1A                Dual Warning Circuit

To Power            Switch
(+)_____XXXXXXXXX____./ .________
        0.25A Fuse              |
                     ___________+____________
                     |      |       |       |
                     /      /       /       |
                     \R1    \R1     \R1    (x)  Audible Alarm
     Resistors ->    /      /       /       |
                     \      \       \       |
                   __|      |       |       |
 Flashing Red->  (|__  LED__|       |       |
   Steady Green->    |  (|__  LED __|       |
      Steady Red->   |      |   (|__  LED   |
               ______|      |       +_______|
 248 degree F  |248|        |       |
  Sensor ->    | F |        |       |
               |___|_       |       |______
                     |      |         |257 | <-257 degree F
                     |      |         | F  |    Sensor
                     |______+_________|____|
                            |
                         Ground (-)
========================================================================
Figure 1B                Dual Warning System
                               _____________________________   __
  _____________________________|  | |                       |
  |                   _________| (___)  (G) (FR) (SR) (AA)  |
  |                  |      ___|                            |  1.5"
  |                  |      |  |____________________________|  __
  |                  |      |  |          3.5"              |
  |       ___________+______|                     /\     Audible Alarm
  |      |           |      |                /\   Steady Red LED
  |______|           |______|            /\  Flashing Red LED
  |248 F |<-Sensors->|257 F |      /\    Green LED
  |______|           |______|     On-Off Switch

========================================================================
Figure 2A                Single Warning Circuit

To Power            Switch
(+)_____XXXXXXXXX____./ .___+________
        0.25A Fuse          |       |
                            /       |
                            \R1    (x)  Audible Alarm
             Resistor  ->   /       |
                            \       |
                          __|       |
   Steady Green->       (|__  LED   |______
                            |         |248 | <-248 degree F
                            |         | F  |    Sensor
                            +_________|____|
                            |
                         Ground (-)
========================================================================
Figure 2B                Single Warning System
                        ___________________   __
  _____________________|  | |              |
  |       _____________| (___)  (G)  (AA)  |
  |      |             |                   |  1.5"
  |      |             |___________________|  __
  |      |             |          2"       |
  |      |                            /\
  |______|                       /\   Audible Alarm
  |248 F |<-Sensor         /\    Green LED
  |______|                On-Off Switch
========================================================================
Figure 3
Shorting the leads to check the circuits for correct operation

  _______
  |     |_________ A _____
  | ()  |                 |
  |     |                 O Short A & B to test Lower Temperature
  | ()  |                 |
  |     |_________ B _____|
  | ()  |                 |
  |     |                 O Short B & C to test Higher Temperature
  | ()  |                 |
  |     |_________ C _____|
  |_____|

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 22:50:54 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: Re: 15W40 oil

On Thu, 22 Aug 96, "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov> wrote:

>Sorry, it's just for us lucky diesel owners.

And lucky you are. The only dino oil available for diesel in the Caribbean 
(Rimula X or Rotella) is rated by LR as appropriate for emergency use only for 
the Tdi, to be changed as soon as possible to the appropriate SHPD grade (Myrena 
in the case of Shell). Some months ago there was a discussion about synthetics, 
and about the same time the Shell stations began offering a synthetic oil. Given 
that a temperature spread requires a lot of additives that are particularly 
undesirable for diesels, we have the least appropriate oil that one could 
imagine for this part of the world - 5W40 only. 
Stock up and be ready for the next glaciation.
Allan

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 00:42:29 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Sighting - Lake George, NY

Saw a red 88 with what looked like a gray canvas top on Saturday, 17 Aug
driving past the "Great Escape" amusement park. I was too far away to see if
was a IIa or III or even to see the driver. Anyone here on the list own it?

Cheers
Mike Loiodice
166 W. Fulton St.                  1965 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Faded Green     
Gloversville                       1972 SerIII 88 Petrol - Fern Camo
NY  12078  (USA)        7          1971 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Red and Blue
                     #:-}>         1964 Triumph Spitfire - BRG

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 00:42:31 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Sighting - Cooperstown, NY

My girlfriend saw a green 88 with a canvas top running around Cooperstown on
Tuesday, 20 Aug. She says it was as beat-up looking as mine!! :-)

Cheers
Mike Loiodice
166 W. Fulton St.                  1965 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Faded Green     
Gloversville                       1972 SerIII 88 Petrol - Fern Camo
NY  12078  (USA)        7          1971 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Red and Blue
                     #:-}>         1964 Triumph Spitfire - BRG

------------------------------

From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de
Subject: Re: Lookign for advise on a used D110
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 1996 08:57:11 +0200 (METDST)

Hello Christopher

| shown a used Land Rover D110, with a standard diesel 2.5 engine, power
If it's the 2.5 normal aspirated Diesel, it must be preDefender. The name
Defender was introduced when the Disco came out (1992?). From there on
the 90 and 110 had the 2.5l Tdi or the V8 engine.
Be warned, the 2.5 n.a. D has not much power. Though if you don't like
slow driving go for a Tdi. The 2.5 TD is just a altered 2.5D and has
a bad reputation since there seem to be some problems corelated with
the turbocharger. The Tdi is a completely new construction (see LROi
July 96).
 
| steering and with a milage of 60,000 miles. The body is good.
Body hardly doesn't matter. Crawl under it with a BIG maglight and have
a 20 minute look at the frame. Had some sad surprises during this
procedure when I was shopping for a 110 last year.

| The asking
| price is Pounds Sterling 8,550 
| (about US Dollar 13,344). Is the price expensive, cheap, reasonable ?
Prices are very locally. But that's about the same I paid for my 110
last year here in Germany (1989, 56000km, exBrit.MOD but LHD, 2.5D, HT, sliding
windows in the back, 3door, new civi seats, civi paintjob, very good frame)

| Also, at what particular details should I look and inspect ?
frame, frame, frame, oilleaks (be sure there is oil inside!),steering play.
If the truck is more than 6 years old expect the rubber bushes to need 
replacement soon (btw. don't waxoil them!). I'm replacing mine with polybushes 
from R.H.Engineering in the moment.

Hope this helps, if you have further questions email me.
Cheers,
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                 tbr1102@sunmail.lrz-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

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