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From: colleran@headwaters.com
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 07:59:52 +0400
Subject: Re: Unidentified wrenches

Just adding my two cents worth to the thread concerning British Standard
Whitworth (BSW) and British Standard Fine (BSF) and the relationship
between the two. I've been dealing with this little puzzle for about 30
years now (ever since I bought a 1957 AJS in 1967, my first 50's-era
British motorbike). It's both more complicated and simpler than it seems.

I'll start with the simpler part:

Despite the fact that older wrenches do indicate a difference between BSF
and BSW head sizes, in practice BSF and BSW fasteners with the same
diameter threaded portions have the same size hex heads. For example, a
1/4BSF and a 1/4BSW bolt both have heads that measure between .438 and .445
inches across the flats. I have never, for instance, found a 1/4BSW bolt
that had a head .518 to .525 inch measurement across the flat -- which, if
you saw one would look very top-heavy, indeed.

Nevertheless, almost every day, I use an old King Dick open end wrench

I've never really thought about it before. I just ignore the BSW reference
and use the BSF sized tool (wrench or socket ) that corresponds to the
threaded diameter of the fastener -- whether BSF or BSW. You'll probably
find you do the same.

Here's a bonus: those 1/4 inch British Standard fasteners will usually fit
into a 7/16 SAE tool, which allows clearance for .4375 inches or slightly
more across the flats -- so the same 7/16 wrenches and sockets that can be
used in so many places on a Series Landie will also work on 1/4BSW/BSF nuts
and bolts.  Of course, 7/16 across the flat SAE fasteners have either1/4UNC
or 1/4UNF threads which can lead to a complication, as I'll touch upon in
the complication part of this posting.

But, while we're on the good stuff, here's another bonus: 11mm wrenches and
sockets will also normally fit on 1/4 BSF/BSW nuts and bolts -- as well as
7/16 across-the-flat 1/4 diameter SAE fasteners.  11mm tools measure a thou
or two over .433 across the flats. The 11mm head size doesn't correspond to
any the more-commonly-used metric fasteners, as it happens. So, if you have
metric tools and usually work on Land Rovers just slip all those 11mm
wrenches and sockets out of your metric drawer and pop 'em into your
'Murrican drawer -- Hey presto! Spare 7/16 inchers!

Here's another bonus fact: (possibly the best of the bunch) With one
particularly vexing exception, BSW and UNC fasteners of the same diameter
have the same number of threads per inch (TPI). The difference is that BSW
(and BSF) threads have a 55 degree thread angle while UNC, UNF, and ISO
(metric) threads all have a 60 degree thread angle. This means British
Standard male and female threads have a somewhat deeper interpenetration
and are theoretically stronger.  For most of our purposes, this is pretty
much an academic consideration. In practice, for sizes up to about 1 inch
in diameter, UNC fasteners and BSW fasteners of the same thread diameter
have the same TPI and are interchangeable.

For those of us in North America particularly this can be very useful.
Here's one way: Often, studs mounted into alloy castings in older Brit
machines were threaded BSW on the part that goes into the alloy. If they
get stripped out, they can be restored with a same-diameter UNC Helicoil
and the same size BSW stud can still be used in it.

The one very important deviation from this BSW/UNC interchangeability is in
the 1/2 inch thread diameter size.

Which gets us into the complications:

1/2BSW has 12TPI while 1/2UNC has 13TPI. That 1TPI difference is worth
watching out for. You can start threading a 1/2UNC bolt into a hole tapped
for 1/2BSW, for example, and at first it may seem fine, maybe just a little
tight. As you go deeper it gets tighter and tighter. If you persist, after
a half dozen turns, you could end up stripping the threads.

Luckily 1/4BSW and 1/4UNC both have 20TPI. They both have pretty much the
the across the flats measurement. So, except for the thread profile, a
1/4BSFW and a 1/4UNC are pretty much indistinguishable from one another and
can be used interchangeably.

That handy 7/16 across-the-flats head size for all 1/4inch fasteners can
turn troublesome if you confuse a 1/4BSF with a 1/4UNF thread. This is
unfortunately quite easy to do, going by appearance alone. 1/4BSF has 26TPI
while 1/4UNF has 28TPI.

Fortunately, that 2TPI difference makes them hard to start against one
another. But if you didn't know what you were up against you might just
think they were overplated or something and end up stripping or breaking a
bolt. Or, worse yet,  cramming a nut and bolt together and thinking you had
a secure fastening, when in fact it was just a lot of loose broken-off
threads holding them together -- only to fall apart soon after (at the
least opportune moment -- Sod's Law).

On my 69 IIA all the 1/4 panel bolts are UNF. So I can hold onto the good
ones and mix and match with easily available UNF replacements without
worrying. I wouldn't be surprised, though,  to hear that earlier Series
machines used 1/4BSF all over the place instead. In which case, you could
end up with a few headaches. A Series I or earlier IIA or II owner might be
able to comment on this.

In general, on this vehicle (1969 NAS 'bugeye' IIA SWB) I have found the
British Standard stuff confined to mechanical bits (brake cam adjuster hex,
for example) while most of the bodywork fasteners as I've said are UNC.

This is an awfully long posting, I guess. But I hope it may prove useful
for those who haven't encountered these thread-system issues before.

I won't get into the whole BA question here (pretty much confined to
dashboard/instrument/electrics applications), except to say that I have
found that some small SAE numerical-series fasteners work with or instead
of some of the little buggers. I could work out the specifics and post it
later if there is any interest in hearing about this.

Also, I have worked out a single-page comparison chart showing size and TPI
for BSF, BSW, UNC, UNF, metric, BA and the mysterious and dreaded CEI
(26TPI for everything regardless of diameter, execept 3/16 and 7/8, but I
digress). Unfortunately, it's in GraphSoft BluePrint for Macintosh format
as it stands. I could convert it to something a bit more e-mailable, if
anyone wants a copy. E-mail me directly, if you're interested.

One last BTW. Most of this info was derived from my direct experience
(yours may differ) and supplemented by my old copy of Machinery's Handbook.
If you spot a copy of this book floating around in a remaindered bin or
yard sale, I'd recommend picking one up. It's pretty(!) technical but can
sometimes answer questions very few other people are ever even likely to
ask.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Aug 96 8:04:54 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: JPAPPAS mail logjam

Am I the only one getting a giant something-or-other file stuck to every 
message from Jim Pappas ? If not, can anything be done about it? These 
pups are huge.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Aug 96 08:27:47 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Stage One Driveshafts

>>>>Are you having problems with driveshaft bolts coming loose?  ...snip.....I 
still have to tighten them every time I'm under the vehicle.

Well, Eric...
Just don't go under the vehicle...:-)

>>>> I've had both driveshafts let go (as in 
break the bolts at the flange) within the past 18 months. 

My guess is that one of the following is taking place:

1. You havent used the proper NUTS. They should at least be nylocks, if not the 
all metal ones with the slightly oval top. (these can be "refreshed" by simply 
squeezing the top back into an oval before putting em back on) Mine were 
nylocks, and I used new ones when I reinstalled 'em. Once they come loose, they 
aren't holding their torque and should be replaced.

2. The bolts should be grade 8 I think, grade 5 could maybe stretch just a 
little, then its all over from there. They must be fine thread. Takes more 
vibration to loosen. 

3. The non-threaded part of the bolt isn't long enough. The non-thread part, 
being wider, allows less movement of the bolt in the hole. Try getting a longer 
bolt with a nonthreaded portion that is as close (must be less, duh) to the 
thickness of the two flanges, then cut off any excess length if necessary and 
dress the ends.

>>>> I am still thanking my lucky 
stars that the vehicle didn't pitch-pole ...

Ive heard of propshafts cracking blocks, as well as thrashing brake/fuel 
lines...

No matter how ya slice it, it comes up ugly....

Good luck. 

Dave

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 08:34:12 -0400
Subject: Hvy Duty gaiters

I had seen someone else ask this question but didn't see any replies so here
goes again...
Has anyone in the UK seen or used the Heavy Duty Gaiters advertised by
P.A.Blanchard in the Sept. issue of Land Rover World on page 35??
TIA
Steve Bradke    72 Series lll ( for Sale )
WA2GMC        68 S lla 88
                       96 Discovery SE-7

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 13:51:00 +0100
From: "Geoffrey Said" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Subject: Queries

I own an 1979 lwb 2.25l diesel Series 3.

I would like to ask some questions?

1 - Is it normal that the engine consums some oil?  The landrover does not emite 
any blue smoke.

2 - Is it also normal that when going up a steap hill the water tempreture goes 
up?  I live in Malta and in summer the tempreture can be very hot.

3 - What is the normal fuel consumption of a 2.25 diesel?

Geoffrey

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 08:52:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Stage One Driveshafts

On Wed, 21 Aug 96, "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org> wrote:

>Well, Eric...
>Just don't go under the vehicle...:-)

That got me to the problem I'm in right now!

>My guess is that one of the following is taking place:
>1. You havent used the proper NUTS. They should at least be nylocks, if not the 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>nylocks, and I used new ones when I reinstalled 'em. Once they come loose, they 
>aren't holding their torque and should be replaced.

Been using nylocks...buggers only slow the process.

>2. The bolts should be grade 8 I think, grade 5 could maybe stretch just a 
>little, then its all over from there. They must be fine thread. Takes more 
>vibration to loosen. 

I've heard various arguments about grade 8 vs. grade 5:  Some say that the 
difference in tensile strength doesn't make up for the fact that grade 5 has a 
more resilient duty cycle than the grade 8...I guess it depends on application. 
 Engineering types, please feel free to correct me.
>3. The non-threaded part of the bolt isn't long enough. The non-thread part, 
>being wider, allows less movement of the bolt in the hole. Try getting a longer 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>thickness of the two flanges, then cut off any excess length if necessary and 
>dress the ends.

Working on it...going out to the shop now to take things apart and figure out if 
I can put it all back together or if I did some expensive damage...I'm also 
going to get some real locktite.

>Ive heard of propshafts cracking blocks, as well as thrashing brake/fuel 
>lines...
>No matter how ya slice it, it comes up ugly....
>thickness of the two flanges, then cut off any excess length if necessary and 

That's for sure...we'll see what happens

Thanks,
Eric

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Aug 96 9:21:15 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Queries 4 a S3 Diesel

1. How fast is the engine using oil? Do you have to put in 500cc every 
week or what?
2. Yes it's normal for the temp to rise on 'steap' hills. This assumes 
you have a properly working cooling system that is filled to capacity.
3. I can't speak for others but I get between 20 and 30 miles per gallon 
depending on conditions.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

------------------------------

From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de
Subject: Re: Queries
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 15:24:59 +0200 (METDST)

Geoffrey asks:
| 1 - Is it normal that the engine consums some oil?  The landrover does not emite 
| any blue smoke.

Depends on how much 'some' is. If the LR doesn't smoke blue and you can't smell it,
it can't be too much (if it's not dripping out somewhere). I hardly ever have to 
top mine up.

| 2 - Is it also normal that when going up a steap hill the water tempreture goes 
| up?  I live in Malta and in summer the tempreture can be very hot.
When I go up long steap hills, the temperature of my 2.5D gets higher, too.
But not dramaticaly. It keeps a good way from the red. To be precise:
it normaly runs at about the middle of the temp gauge and it never was
up more than the half way to the red from there.

| 3 - What is the normal fuel consumption of a 2.25 diesel?
This depends very much on how heavy your right foot is and
of the terrain you drive.
My 110 2.5D normally makes 9 to 10 km/l and a friend with a
1973 SIII 109 2.25D usually gets about 8 to 9 km/l as long as
we stay on paved roads.

Hope this helps a bit.
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                 tbr1102@sunmail.lrz-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Aug 96 9:27:41 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Stage One Driveshafts

	Would castle nuts and cotter pins do the trick? I haven't looked at my 
prop shaft to see if this is an option, but some kind of safety wiring 
would be pretty bullet proof, I should think.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 07:08:38 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Stage One Driveshafts

>Eric writes:
;
> Are you having problems with driveshaft bolts coming loose?  Or do I just
>have > a
> problem with my installation that I'm missing? Like on any other vehicle I've
; been using the proper size bolts (grade 5 or 8) as well as copious amounts of
> locktite and I still have to tighten them every time I'm under the vehicle.

I have a 109 not a stage 1.  I use grade 8 bolts and Nyloc nuts on my
driveshafts and have never had a problem with the nyloc nuts coming loose.
You might try those.

But is sorta sounds like you may have some strange vibraions in your drive
shaft.  Have you considered checking them for absolute straightness and
having them balanced?

Good luck

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Aug 96 10:47:54 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Latest frameover blab

Well, the end is near...

As of now I have the entire drive train hooked up. "cept for the missing 
cylinder head (where'd it go?!) it's pretty much ready to run. 

Rear tub is bolted down and ready for action, holes and all...no more stupid 
steel seat belt brackets...

Seat box, seats and sills are back.        

Still waiting for the firewall, which actually is supposed to "happen" 
tomorrow...

Last night I pulled apart the spaghetti...er...wiring, and removed the two fried
wires that were once the coil positive lead and the power to the taillights. 

Also dissassembled the motor that used to run my winch. The inside was *a 
little* caked with crud. left the casing soaking in PB power blaster (the best 
IMO) penetrating lubey stuff, in the interest of removing the magnets from the 
inside and cleaning them up a little. 

Hopefully after the bulkhead is put on, I can paint it and start putting stuff 
back, and maybe i'll be finished soon.

Cheers

Dave B.

------------------------------

From: Peter Reynolds <Peter_Reynolds@mktplace.com>
Date: 21 Aug 96 10:30:35 
Subject: a third try to post a whole message

------------------------------

From: newsroom@acsworld.net (Merf Radio/WIEZ Newsroom)
Subject: Tire size?
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 10:55:36 -0400

Question from a relative newbie to the list - So forgive me if i've =
missed a recent chain!

My beastie came with an odd-lot assortment of tire sizes and types.
(I chucked the lot, and fitted a set of 235/75R15s that I stumbled =
across at a swap meet)
Is there any general consensus on the optimal size for my LR?  - it's a =
1970, SIIA, 88'.

Also - any opinions about which brand/tread pattern works best, given =
mostly on-road use... with a bit of warm-weather off-road and wintertime =
snowy road use thrown in.

Thanks for any help!

Nils Frederiksen
No longer stuck in Central PA,
thanks to my "Lan'Grover"!
** Name courtesy of my 3yr old...;-)

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 11:59:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Stage One Driveshafts

On Wed, 21 Aug 1996, twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) wrote:

>But is sorta sounds like you may have some strange vibraions in your drive
>shaft.  Have you considered checking them for absolute straightness and
>having them balanced?

Just dropped them off...

Eric

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 09:13:10 -0700
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: Series Steering Wheels

        I, too, wanted a better steering wheel.  Before purchasing the IIA,
our Disco was my daily driver, and its steering wheel had two features I
loved:  thickness and the leather just felt nice to the touch.  My solution
was to purchase two stering wheel covers.  The first was the cheap PVC type
and boasted about its padding qualities.  This is jus the simple kind you
wrap around the wheel and then there is a plastic cord that spirals around
it.  I then purchased a leather cover which required stitching on the inside
of the wheel.  The result looks quite nice, has the thickness I wanted, and
feels good.  Note that the leather cover would only stretch over the other
one and the wheel after I globbed it up but good with a leather conditioner.

C
At 03:10 AM 8/21/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Recently mention was made of a decent treatment for steering wheel decay. 

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)]
>Paul Driscoll
>'65 88 IIA HT

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 12:12:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Latest frameover blab

I agree, for things that won't move, use PB Blaster penetrating Catalyst it
is by far the best product of its kind I have ever come across..
Glad to see the end of the frameover is in sight
Rgds
Steve Bradke   72 S lll 88 ( for sale )
WA2GMC        68 S lla 88
                      96 Discovery SE-7 

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 13:07:18 -0400
Subject: Battery & Hand-Throttle-Job

Has anyone with a 93(NAS)110 used the + & - poles/terminals inside the
battery box for anything? 

I occasionally need to run a large Inverter (gives 110/220VAC) and was
wondering if I could connect the inverter's pigtail direct to those poles or
if I should continue connecting to the battery. Are they for adding a second
battery / has anyone done that on this particular vehicle? I'm led to believe
by the Service Manual that a "Split-Charge" system was installed at the
factory; the dealership says it is an option they can install for a few $$.

BTW, the wiring diagram (the Split Charging Page) in the Factory Service
Manual has the battery installed/labelled backwards. A Lucas red-herring or
perhaps a hold-over from +ive groung days?! 

When I used the inverter to run photo lights for the first time, after the
strobes fired, the engine idle dipped down and it struggled for a few seconds
while the inverter sucked major amps from the alternator. I  have since used
a lot of duct tape and an appropriately sized stick to hold down the acc
pedal. I miss the hand throttle like on dad's old sIIA. Any hope of
getting/coverting one for use on the 110? I was too young to understand how
it connected to the accelerator system so I'm just guessing that one can be
used...

Any info appreciated,
thanks

patrick
93  110

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 13:04:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: 12/4/95 <rsloan@titan.liunet.edu>
Subject: the bicycle

I would have to agree with Bill about the LR bicycle I saw while in Japan.  
I'll admit I only saw it in passing but it looked too much like a toy to be of
any practicle use.  I mentioned it only as a curiousity and in the small hope 
there were other models.  Look what Land Rover did for vehicular off 
roading, imagine what they could do for mountain bikes?  I couldn't 
imagine riding a collapsible bike around the woods, much less one with 
wheels so small.

Rich
D90 #2948
Gash healing nicely, thankyou...

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 13:07:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Music

I promised myself not to add to this thread (being musically and rhythmically
challenged), but...

Has anyone suggested: "Shake, Rattle & Roll"
I forget who did it, I saw it on a Juke Box and the title sure applies to
LRs.

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 21 Aug 96  8:10:04 EDT
Subject: Columbus Day weekend trip in the Berkshires, Ma., USA?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 14:23:17 -0400
From: jim@kidd.com (jnk)
Subject: speedo

does anyone else have a problem with the seedometer needle bouncing. mine
does... i have to guestimate my speed. i've lubricated the end that goes
into the transimssion and it still does this. does anyone have a suggestion
on how to fix it?

also, i think i'm going to bight the bullet and order a canvas top. i would
like an olive one with no side windows. does anyone have a suggestion for
the best deal/fit?

jim karantinos
tallahassee, fl usa

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 21 Aug 96  6:47:11 EDT
Subject: Re: Stage One Driveshafts

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 15:11:45 -0300
From: johnsonm@borg.com (myk)
Subject: Re: Stage One Driveshafts

Are you having problems with driveshaft bolts coming loose?  Or do I just have
a problem with my installation that I'm missing? Like on any other vehicle I've
been using the proper size bolts (grade 5 or 8) as well as copious amounts of
locktite and I still have to tighten them every time I'm under the vehicle.

>1). That the shafts are assembled properly, i.e.: with the flanges aligned
>properly and so forth? An out-of-balance shaft can do this.

Thats what it sound like to me.  They are out of phase.  It is easy to get
them almost 180 out (more like 170-175).  Then they will jump around a bit
at all speeds.

74 SIII 88 (Chester)
73 SIII 88 (Jezebel)
http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 15:33:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Columbus Day weekend trip in the Berkshires, Ma., USA?

I expect to see a post on this from Jim Pappas soon but...
The same goes for me....I would also like all available info on this event as
I am contemplating going as well
Thanks
Steve

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 12:55:50 -0700 (MST)
From: Dirk Tischer <dtischer@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: D90 rear door

Sorry for the confusion.  I'm wondering whether the D90 rear door, the
tail gate (half door), will fit in place of a full size Series III rear
door (ie with glass).  I've seen the two side by side and my guess is that
they'll fit, but if anybody knows for sure it would save alot of hassles.  

Thanks, 

Dirk Tischer 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 18:39:35 -0500
From: "John P. Casteel" <jcasteel@mindspring.com>
Subject: Can of Worms

As I sit waiting for my Range Rover to sell, and as I daydream about the Series 
vehicle that I will purchase.  I thought that I would fill my spare time with a 
small task.  Here is what I want to do...

I am going to build a database of Series Land Rovers in North America similiar to 
the Defender VIN list.  I know, hence the subject of this message.  I will start 
soliciting this information by this weekend so I am running my idea past all of 
you for your input.

I will request that the information be sent to my E-mail address in a strict 
comma delimited format so that I can do the things required to build the 
database.

The core information that I want are as follows,

VIN                          -  vehicle identification number
year                         -  the year as registered
model                        -  I, II, IIa, III
name                         -  the anti-christ
color                        -  current predominant color
location                     -  State on license tag or last resting place
current                      -  choose one of the following
                                  dd - daily driver
                                  dr - drivable
                                  ur - under restoration
                                  pc - parts car
                                  dy - destroyed
dealer of original purchase  -  if known or if post 1975 import, then year of 
                                import
notes                        -  anything up to 250 characters
                                ie.  Station Wagon with soft top, Concours,
                                     original owner
your E-mail address          -  for future reference

What do you think?  What else would we like to know?  It's easier to ask the 
question now than try to append to a database.  I'd like to know your first name, 
last name, location of original purchase, maybe you are interested in knowing 
other information.  I figure that with our contacts the digest is probably in 
contact with all North American Series Land Rovers.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 09:24:58 +1100
From: m.belik@uws.edu.au (Miroslav Belik)
Subject: Fly wheel Bush

Dear LROs

I was just wondering how do you remove the bush from the fly wheel and how
is it replaced. Does anyone have the dimensions for this bush.

Thanks in advance.
Miroslav Belik                    Email: M.Belik@UWS.EDU.AU        
UWS, Macarthur               Phone: 018-028-708 or 61 2 823 9445
P.O. Box 555                     FAX:   61 46 203025              
Campbelltown, 2560                                                             
NSW      
Australia.
         

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 19:38:44 -0400
From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: Music

>Has anyone suggested: "Shake, Rattle & Roll"
>I forget who did it, I saw it on a Juke Box and the title sure applies to

Bill Haley and the Comets.  Their first single if I'm not mistaken.  Not a
bad little ditty...

RoverOn!

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg          Purple Shark Media                 Rowayton, CT

                         jeff@purpleshark.com
                          ==================
               My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
          My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
                       Taste for the good life,
                      I can see it no other way.
                                --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Aug 96 19:40:46 EDT
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: ECU unit for Range Rover

 Hello Rovers,

 I don't recall which email list the thread on ECU's was on, I was more
 impressed by the quoted replacement prices of $1,400!!  and resulting
 total frustration.  Apologies to those receiving double messages.

 Just received at LROA is the following postcard:

        V8 RANGE ROVER ECU SPECIALISTS

        Electronic Fuel Injection ECU Problems?  ECU common failure
        symptoms and diagnostic checklist available by Email

        ECU's repaired and reconditioned from GBP 85 /US$ 128
        Factory Reconditioned airflow meters GBP 125 /US$ 188
        Prices exclude carriage & VAT (VAT applies to EU only)

        CAR ELECTRONIC SERVICES               Tel. +44 1725 513145
        Downton, Salisbury SP5 3NQ, England   <rod@carelect.demon.co.uk>

 Regards from California,

                         ______
 Michael Carradine       [__[__\==                    Rumpole of the Bay
 510-988-0900            [________]               Land-Rover Roughmobile
 cs@crl.com  __________.._(o)__.(o)____...o^^^  '65 IIA 2.235m (was 88")
 _______________________________________________________________________
 Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page:   http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 19:42:44 -0400
From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: Can of Worms

>current                      -  choose one of the following
>                                  dd - daily driver
>                                  dr - drivable

>                                  ur - under restoration
>                                  pc - parts car
>                                  dy - destroyed

You might want to add one more category -- with full credit to Spenny, who
came up with this one at Owls Head:

		cu- currently unrestoring

RoverOn!

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg          Purple Shark Media                 Rowayton, CT

                         jeff@purpleshark.com
                          ==================
               My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
          My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
                       Taste for the good life,
                      I can see it no other way.
                                --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 18:42:26 -0600
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Subject: Duct Tape Heatglove

I discovered another use for duct tape this afternoon.  I was in downtown
Calgary with VORIZO when the charging light came on.  Sure enough, one of
the wires had fallen off one of the lugs at the back of the generator yet
again.  One of these days I'm going to have to fix it properly.

Anyway, fixing the thing meant putting the back of my hand to within half an
inch of a near red hot manifold.  I didn't have any gloves in the beast,
we're still in the middle of our six weeks of summer here in Canada, but I
always have duct tape.

Three lashings of tape around my hand later and the job was done without
third degree burns.

It sure was painful ripping that tape off though.

                                                         Rick Grant

Cobra Media Communications
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/cobracom
rgrant@cadvision.com
Calgary, Canada

------------------------------

From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com>
Subject: RE:BSROA Fall Heritage @ Berkshires
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 17:59:38 -0400
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

The annual BSROA Fall Heritage event is scheduled for the Columbus Day =
weekend this year in the Berkshire mountains of Massachusetts - the =
Hancock/Pittsfield area. The entire event will encompass 10/11-10/14.

Primary campground is the amazing Privacy campground.

We are assembling a flyer for members going out next week on alternate =
lodging sites as well as the campsite number so that people may make =
accomodation plans soonest.

Highlights to include a night run, day run up Jiminy peak, catered pig =
roast, raffle, showing of the 1996 Camel Trophy video, and much more!

Details will be posted on the digest for those interested as well as on =
the Club line - ring on 617-545-4743...

----------
From: 	ASFCO@aol.com[SMTP:ASFCO@aol.com]
Sent: 	Wednesday, August 21, 1996 3:33 PM
Subject: 	Re: Columbus Day weekend trip in the Berkshires, Ma., USA?

I expect to see a post on this from Jim Pappas soon but...
The same goes for me....I would also like all available info on this =
event as
I am contemplating going as well
Thanks
Steve

------ =_NextPart_000_01BB8FA5.5313C140

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 21:02:47 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: RE: D90 steering wheels

On Mon, 19 Aug 1996, Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com> wrote:

>No NAS D90 (or any other Defender, FTM) has an airbag. 
>I have seen a few D90 owners around with MOMO steering wheels. The trick =
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>is to find the hub mounting kit - the wheel is easy once you have =
>that...

Thanks. The person I spoke to at Grant some weeks ago told me about the 
unavailability of a mounting kit for Defenders because of air bags, and I 
believed them. I'll call back. Meanwhile, I wouldn't mind finding out more about 
MOMO. If anyone is able to send a fax or phone number number I would appreciate 
it. I'm also looking out for anyone with a 90/110 to have a look at the earlier 
design, suggested by Franz, but there may not be one on the island.
Cheers
Allan

------------------------------

From: robot1@juno.com
Subject: Music, and tea, and spare tires(tyres?)
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 21:56:05 EDT

Dragging out that music thread again, do you know what the difference
between a cat and a bagpipe? Nobody yells if you slice up a bagpipe with
a butcher's knife.

If you have a metal teapot you can boil water on your intake manifold. I
regularly carry a stainless thermos bottle (now devoid of it's vacuum and
therefore it's insulating properties) which I tie with wire to the
exhaust of my car so as to have hot water for tea on long road trips. It
works, it's cheap, you just have to have mitts to hold it with!

This trick also works for canned chili or corned beef, if you first
puncture the can so it doesn't explode.

I've been thinking that a full moon type wheel cover such as the type old
"lead sledders" used  would not only keep the rain/snow/elements out of
the spare  wheel, but provide a handy storage space for jumper cables,
tow straps, etc.
Just my .02

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 13:04:29 +0900
From: Alan Logue <Logue@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: Re: JPAPPAS mail logjam

You are not the only one - I'm getting it too. Is it a picture or something?????
Alan

At 08:04 21/8/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Am I the only one getting a giant something-or-other file stuck to every 
>message from Jim Pappas ? If not, can anything be done about it? These 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>Bill Adams
>3D Artist/Animator
==============================================
Logue & Associates
Alan and Catherine Logue
Training & Development Consultants
PO Box 689
Morphett Vale
South Australia
Phone 61-(0)8-83844443	Fax 61-(0)8-83267227

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 23:08:00 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca>
Subject: 15W40 oil

Has anyone tried the 15W40 in their Ser vehicles, and how did it work 
out?  I saw some in the U.S. last week but I haven't seen it in Canada 
before.  Is it just for Diesel engines or can it be run in petrol engines 
without the increased oil pressure pushing the seals out?  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

From: J0KSeiwert@aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 00:25:19 -0400
Subject: sterling 825 shop manual

I thought someone had posted a message cocnerning the sale of a sterling 825
shop manual.  However, since I have checked with my sterlling owner friend,
and found that he was indeed interested in obtaining such a manual, I have
been unable to find the message again.  Would the purveyor or some other
aware soul please e-mail with additional information?  Much gratitude for
your assistance.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 07:03:00 +0100
From: "Geoffrey Said" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Subject: RE:Re: Queries 4 a S3 Diesel

Adams, Bill:
>1. How fast is the engine using oil? Do you have to put in 500cc every 

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]

>1. How fast is the engine using oil? Do you have to put in 500cc every 
>week or what?

No it uses less than this ammount.  Also it depends on the mileage 
covered.

>2. Yes it's normal for the temp to rise on 'steap' hills. This assumes 
>you have a properly working cooling system that is filled to capacity.
>3. I can't speak for others but I get between 20 and 30 miles per 
gallon 
>depending on conditions.
>Bill Adams
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>Bill Adams
>3D Artist/Animator
Geoffrey

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 02:25:05 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: speedo

jim karantinos asks...
 
>does anyone else have a problem with the seedometer needle bouncing. mine
>does... i have to guestimate my speed. i've lubricated the end that goes
>into the transimssion and it still does this. does anyone have a suggestion
>on how to fix it?
-

Believe it or not, one of the things that can cause your speedometer needle
to jump like that is a loose nut on the rear output flange on the transfer
case. You'll have to disconnect the rear driveshaft from the transfer case
to get to it.

Cheers
Mike Loiodice
166 W. Fulton St.                  1965 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Faded Green     
Gloversville                       1972 SerIII 88 Petrol - Fern Camo
NY  12078  (USA)        7          1971 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Red and Blue
                     #:-}>         1964 Triumph Spitfire - BRG

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 02:25:17 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: music

Jeff comments...

>Though I agree that the evening pipes were most welcome, Mr. Loidice
>exaggerates the esteem in which we hold his coffee-less wake up call.  And
>he's yet again confused as to the time of the incident -- the pipes brought
>me to attention at first light, which was 5AM. 

Naaa... 5AM? Couldn't have been.. Naaaa... 

>-- Mike remarked something on the order of, "You mean it's only 6AM now?  I
>thought it was later.  We didn't even turn in until 3." 

Well, you know we get during those events... that "crack-of-dawn expedition
mentality".. Gotta remember my stove next year...

Cheers
Mike Loiodice
166 W. Fulton St.                  1965 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Faded Green     
Gloversville                       1972 SerIII 88 Petrol - Fern Camo
NY  12078  (USA)        7          1971 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Red and Blue
                     #:-}>         1964 Triumph Spitfire - BRG

------------------------------

From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: Battery & Hand-Throttle-Job
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 08:27:14 +-200

Maybee! Depends on the engine you have.
If it is a V8 with carburettors, there is
a handthrottle system availyble, that connects
directly. Therefore it has its own cable, and
have nothing to do with the normal throttle.
They are connected to the same laver on the
carburettors, in a way that the hand operated
change the minimum but the pedal can add to this
without problem.
If you have one of those DIY-unfreindly models
with electronic controlled injection, I'm not
sure if its possible, but they should open with
increasing load.
If You have a diesel, someone els must answer, but
it must exist for use with a winch.

Happy Rovering
Bent Boehlers, Denmark.
When I used the inverter to run photo lights for the first time, after =
the strobes fired, the engine idle dipped down and it struggled for a =
few seconds while the inverter sucked major amps from the alternator. I  =
have since used a lot of duct tape and an appropriately sized stick to =
hold down the acc pedal. I miss the hand throttle like on dad's old =
sIIA. Any hope of getting/coverting one for use on the 110? I was too =
young to understand how it connected to the accelerator system so I'm =
just guessing that one can be used...

------------------------------

From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: Sparenumber for stage 1
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 09:01:55 +-200

Posted for a freind in Copenhagen, Denmark.

Stage 1, 109" with V8.
The front was moved forward to give space for the engine, 
and a new grill was used.
It have not been possible to find the correct sparepart 
number for that grill.
It is the size of the later plastic on the 90" and 110". 
It is galvanized (boiled in zinck) and made of wiremess 
like series I and II.
Does anyone have the sparenumber, and maybee know were to 
order it ??
Used ones is also interesting.

Hapy Rovering
Bent Boehlers, Denmark
86" 1955
110" 1983

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 09:52:00 +0100
From: "Geoffrey Said" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Subject: RE:RE:Queries for S3

Adams, Bill:
>1. How fast is the engine using oil? Do you have to put in 500cc every 

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]

>1. How fast is the engine using oil? Do you have to put in 500cc every 
>week or what?

No it uses less than this ammount.  Also it depends on the mileage 
covered.

>2. Yes it's normal for the temp to rise on 'steap' hills. This assumes 
>you have a properly working cooling system that is filled to capacity.
>3. I can't speak for others but I get between 20 and 30 miles per 
gallon 
>depending on conditions.
>Bill Adams
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>Bill Adams
>3D Artist/Animator
Geoffrey

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Aug 1996 09:57:00 +0100
From: "Geoffrey Said" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Subject: RE:RE:queries

Geoffrey asks:
| 1 - Is it normal that the engine consums some oil?  The landrover does not 
emite 
| any blue smoke.

Depends on how much 'some' is. If the LR doesn't smoke blue and you can't smell 
it,
it can't be too much (if it's not dripping out somewhere). I hardly ever have to 
top mine up.

It is about a bottle of coke in every forthnight.  To say the truth the sump 
leakes some but not much.  Also I think that some is also coming out near the 
oil filter.

Also another question.  From the oil filler tube some slite white smoke comes 
out.  Is it normal?

Geoffrey

| 2 - Is it also normal that when going up a steap hill the water tempreture 
goes 
| up?  I live in Malta and in summer the tempreture can be very hot.
When I go up long steap hills, the temperature of my 2.5D gets higher, too.
But not dramaticaly. It keeps a good way from the red. To be precise:
it normaly runs at about the middle of the temp gauge and it never was
up more than the half way to the red from there.

| 3 - What is the normal fuel consumption of a 2.25 diesel?
This depends very much on how heavy your right foot is and
of the terrain you drive.
My 110 2.5D normally makes 9 to 10 km/l and a friend with a
1973 SIII 109 2.25D usually gets about 8 to 9 km/l as long as
we stay on paved roads.

Hope this helps a bit.
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                 tbr1102@sunmail.lrz-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

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