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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Choke Thermostat Switch (fwd)
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 96 12:07:01 BST

I've got lots of little things to do to Alice the truck. One of them is
to sort this choke warning light out.

Does anyone know the temperature that the choke thermostat switch turns
on/off? I presume it is closed when hot.
The engine is the 2.25l petrol. 1973 vintage.

Talking of chokes: At the moment, I'm needing a lot of choke to start the
engine. Fine, when I'm cold, but this is also true when I've got a warm engine.
Suggestions?  Once the engine is started, I can push the choke to almost
in, and the engine runs fine with the choke fully in, from about 30 deg. C.

I've tried the Brasso/polish on the steering wheel - I'll see how it performs
over the next few weeks. I'll go for leather cover, or some kind of paint or
epoxy if it doesn't work.  Thanks for the suggestions.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 20 Aug 96  7:16:17 EDT
Subject: Re: music

------------------------------

From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 12:28:16 +0000
Subject: Re: Choke Thermostat Switch

Quoting Richard Marsden, from 20 Aug 96

> I've got lots of little things to do to Alice the truck. One of them is
> to sort this choke warning light out.

I missed the begining of this thread, so I may be well off the beam here:

> Does anyone know the temperature that the choke thermostat switch turns
> on/off? I presume it is closed when hot. The engine is the 2.25l petrol.
> 1973 vintage.
On my 1980's 109, the light is switched on the cable. There is a small 
(quater-inch) square "cylinder" strapped to the choke cable just as it 
leaves the bulkhead [engine side]

The choke cable has a special fitting here and this makes, or breaks, a 
small reed-switch which then illuminates (or extinguishes) the lamp.

To test: With the ignition on, and the oil-pressure & charge warning 
lights lit, the cold-start light should come on if you pull the choke out, 
and go out if you push it home.

If that fails, try pulling connectors off likely-looking objects on the 
engine and see if the light goes out..

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

However strong my opinions are, they are mine and no-one elses.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 07:40:56 -0100
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Subject: paint colors

My current supply of Limestone came from my local DuPont dealer, who has it
on the computer. Apparently British Atlantic supplied the formula to
DuPont. The paint I got from British Atlantic exactly matched the paint
from the local dealer, and it matched the spray can I got from Rovers
North.

That is my particular variety of Limestone. I know there are variants, and
I know that there are some bad formulas out there, but my luck has been
pretty good.

Ned Heite    _______
             |___|__\__==     Heite Consulting
Box 53       | _ |  |  --]    Archaeologists and Historians
Camden       =(O)-----(O)=
DE 19934   """"IIA Land """
USA            Rover '68
                             

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: SII options
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 96 07:43:00 DST

A 1962 Land Rover brochure shows a British Columbia licenced vehicle with a 
standard bonnet (no dent) and bonnet mounted spare (no straps). Inside the 
views show standard bonnets with no dents, deluxe with and without dents and 
rear door mounted spare (low position) Optional extras listed are side 
windows for hardtop (export), near side wing mirror, 3/4 length hood, full 
hood, truck cab, regular hardtop, long hardtop, rear and centre PTO, 
different wheel sizes, diesel.  Ashtrays are not mentioned.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 08:07:50 -0400
From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: music

Mike Loiodice pipes up:

>It works real well when pulling into a Rover encampment late at night. All
>the drunken sods love it. And, the next morning, it works equally well at
>6AM to wake up the same drunken sods. Aye, Laddie, the pipes, the pipes.

Though I agree that the evening pipes were most welcome, Mr. Loidice
exaggerates the esteem in which we hold his coffee-less wake up call.  And
he's yet again confused as to the time of the incident -- the pipes brought
me to attention at first light, which was 5AM.  When he (finallly) inquired
as to the hour -- after much scurrying about to pitch his canopy (for which
we later blessed him), fill the kettle, and discover that he had no stove
-- Mike remarked something on the order of, "You mean it's only 6AM now?  I
thought it was later.  We didn't even turn in until 3."  Nonplussed, he
continued his activities until finally even Dixon "morning sunshine" Kenner
emerged groggily from his tent.

When he realized he hadn't packed a stove, Mike just turned the pipes up a
notch, hoping to stir life from the Zipkin/Meyer camp, wisely located some
distance from "the net slum", so that we might boil some water there.

On the other hand, I'm willing to let it pass, and even continue, so long
as he agrees not to use *my* wing as a 'curb feeler'.  As Warren Zevon
says, "I'll sleep when I'm dead."

RoverOn!

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg          Purple Shark Media                 Rowayton, CT

                         jeff@purpleshark.com
                          ==================
               My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
          My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
                       Taste for the good life,
                      I can see it no other way.
                                --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Aug 96 9:27:21 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: LR Bicycle: an opinion....

	As someone who once wreched bikes for a living and still commutes 26 
miles RT every day, I have to say that the Land Rover Bicycle looks to me 
to be an exercise in overkill, or rather, an example of what happens when 
you give an industrial designer too much time and money to throw at a 
problem. Reminds me of Bucky Fuller's "Dymaxion Car".
	The last thing you need in a "off road" bicycle is lots of stuff that 
can come loose and fail while riding (along with the painful 
consequences); primarily the fold-up frame. I would rather plan on 
carrying full sized bicycles than to cart along this kind of overpriced 
gee-gaw ( 20" wheels? how does one get over a log with that setup? Go out 
and try riding your kid's 20" BMX bike and you'll get a feel for this) 
that appers ready to disintegrate at the first ledge drop-off.
I won't even get into the bizarre gear arrangement that combines a Sachs( 
! What about Sturmey Archer?!) 3 speed hub with derailleur gears. The 
Germans must have had a say about that. If there were a way to put a 
triple up front then you'd have...63 speeds!
Moulton does design top drawer bicycles, but they've never been anything 
more than curiosities.  I predict the buying public will stay away from 
this thing in droves and that it will die the quick death it deserves. 
Buy a Cannondale and be happy.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 09:40:06 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Re: D90 tailgate on a Series III?

>Does anybody know if a D90 tailgate will fit onto a Series III?
>Thanks,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>Thanks,
>Dirk Tischer

        Yes it will, with the proper modifications, hinges, strickers, etc.

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 09:33:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Land Rover Bicycle

Last year Public Television Auction/fundraiser had a Land-Rover bicycle which
was donated by the local LR Dealer..Keeler Motor Car Co. , Latham , NY 
  It was Green & yellow with the LR oval Logo...also had Land-Rover printed
on the front forks as well.  If memory serves correct, the dealer estimated
the value to be around $600
It sold in the $400 range 
Rgds
Steve Bradke    72 S lll 88 ( for sale )
WA2GMC         68 S lla 88
                       96 Discovery SE-7 

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: D90 tailgate on a Series III?
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 96 14:38:57 BST

> >Does anybody know if a D90 tailgate will fit onto a Series III?
> >Thanks,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> >Dirk Tischer
>         Yes it will, with the proper modifications, hinges, strickers, etc.

What, a complete D90 rear end?   :-)

Regarding cross-fitting of bits:  I posted something about temp. gauges.
In case the major threw a wobbly (don't remember seeing the returned copy),
SII temp gauges will fit a SIII cluster okay, won't they? I don't have one
at hand, but a picture in Haynes suggests they're the right shape.
I found someone who's giving up on a restoration project, and he's selling
me some gauges and odds & ends.

Richard  (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 08:45:42 -5
Subject: Re: Double S redux

A.P. Grice writes:
snip
> I expected that I'd have problems down the road with the dissimilar metals.
-
Carbon and stainless are fine together, they're used like that often 
in construction. It's just that the carbon steel will rust away, a 
stupid way to do exhaust systems since there's no reason to do it. 
Except economics. You either have to use a plasma torch to cut 
stainless flanges, or stamp them out. (Actually you *can* use an oxy-acetelyne 
torch, sort of, if you do it right, but it will contaminate the SS with 
carbon.)
snip

> re-aluminized.  The shop is reccommending a "Jet Hot" coating that's used on 
> turbine blades and such.  It's twice as expensive as the traditional 
> aluminizing.  Anyone had experience with the Jet Hot coatings?  Cheers
-
Yep. I had my Clifford header done in 1993 since the first one rusted 
through. It's starting to rust again on the surface, but fortunately 
I paid the extra $$ for the lifetime guarantee. I think it was an 
extra $20, but I don't remember for sure, may have been more. The 
whole thing, with shipping, was about $200.
If it's the stock manifold, I wouldn't bother. I've never seen one 
rust that bad before they crack.
I think I'd rather have the stock setup anyway, rather than the 
Weber 2bbl and custom intake and exhaust manifolds. Too expensive a 
setup, and not worth it IMHO. However, I wouldn't even *think* of the 
Clifford header without the coating.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 09:14:04 -5
Subject: Re: LR Bicycle: an opinion....

There was a US company that made several moutain bikes that I looked 
at at a bike shop in Brattleboro VT back in '90. One of them was the 
Land Rover and the other was teh Range Rover. They seemed to be 
closer to waht one would expect, at least the Land Rover model was. A 
basic sturdy mountain bike without a lot of geegaws on it.
I don't remember the mfg., but the were big enough to have the models 
listed in a  bike buying guide.

I was excited to hear of the LR bike currently available, but 20" 
wheels? Give me a break.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 11:24:47 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: music

On Tue, 20 Aug 1996, "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com> wrote:

>When he realized he hadn't packed a stove, Mike just turned the pipes up a
>notch, hoping to stir life from the Zipkin/Meyer camp, wisely located some
>distance from "the net slum", so that we might boil some water there.

I don't know how "wise" my camp location was.  Especially when you can't find it 
after hanging out with inhabitants of "the net slum".  

Hmmm....maybe one of those neat chirping alarm systems would work.

Eric

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 12:45:23 -0400
Subject: Sept  issue LRW

Nice article and plenty of photos on the OVLR Birthday Party...Bates and
Charlie Haigh at the grill and a good shot of Mike Loiodice complete with
Pipe...
A good reminder of a great weekend
Rgds
Steve 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 09:48:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: johnliu@earthlink.net
Subject: Apology

On 1996-08-09Land-Rover-Owner said to johnliu@earthlink.net
   >id IAA27845; Fri, 9 Aug 1996 08:11:47 -0700
   >I recently posted a vehicle for sale while asking for help on a
   >radio part.  I have been unsubscribed for a while and I seem to
   >remember a rule against vehicle advertisements.  If so then please
   >accept my apology.
   >Cheers,
   >John Casteel
There is no rule against private party FS or WTB ads.
John Y. Liu
johnliu@earthlink.net (via HP200LX and NetTamer)

John Y. Liu

`[1;34;44mNet-Tamer V 1.05.1 - Test Drive

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 13:10:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: music

On Tue, 20 Aug 1996, Mike Loiodice wrote:

> It works real well when pulling into a Rover encampment late at night. All
> the drunken sods love it. And, the next morning, it works equally well at
> 6AM to wake up the same drunken sods. Aye, Laddie, the pipes, the pipes.
>.
	I seem to recall that it was 5am...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 13:49:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: paint colors

On Tue, 20 Aug 1996, Ned Heite wrote:

> My current supply of Limestone came from my local DuPont dealer, who has it
> on the computer. Apparently British Atlantic supplied the formula to
> DuPont. The paint I got from British Atlantic exactly matched the paint
> from the local dealer, and it matched the spray can I got from Rovers
> North.

	Er, "British Atlantic" supplied Dupont with the formula to do the
	LR colours?  I wouldn't think so...  

> That is my particular variety of Limestone. I know there are variants, and
> I know that there are some bad formulas out there, but my luck has been
> pretty good.

	Tremclad Recreational White comes pretty close... :-)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 14:16:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: music

On Tue, 20 Aug 1996, Jeffrey A. Berg wrote:

> thought it was later.  We didn't even turn in until 3."  Nonplussed, he
> continued his activities until finally even Dixon "morning sunshine" Kenner
> emerged groggily from his tent.

	Dixon was up later in the evening on pulling wretched Apple 
	stickers off the windows, insides, etc. of my 109 that a pair 
	of brainwashed, blinkered, Macintosh zealots applied, not to 
	quietly in their drunken state.  Revenge shall be mine...  
	eventually... :-)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 21:27:31 +0200
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Fixing scratched swivel balls

Miroslav from Down Under asked about repairing scratched swivel balls. LRO 
March 96 had a short piece on using Araldite (p. 148):
...This can be done by using Araldite to fill the pitting, having first 
removed all traces of oil. Then it should be rubbed down with fine wet and 
dry, taking care not to harm the remaining chrome, and finally polished with 
Solvol Autosol. Fit new seals, which are cheap, and the job should last for 
many miles. ...

I would not try sanding down the schratches unless they are extremely 
superficial (and then the would not interfere with your seals).
Hope this helps
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 16:31:57 -0400
From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: music

>	Dixon was up later in the evening on pulling wretched Apple
>	stickers off the windows, insides, etc. of my 109 that a pair

Nope, now you're confused on time.  Mike arrived Friday evening/Saturday
morning.   The stickers were applied Saturday evening/Sunday morning.  And
besides, they weren't all Apple stickers, don't forget the
piece-de-resistance from your good friends at American Express.

>	of brainwashed, blinkered, Macintosh zealots applied, not to
>	quietly in their drunken state.  Revenge shall be mine...
>	eventually... :-)

Because of your obvious confusion, I want to remind you that I was an
innocent bystander and can take *NO CREDIT* for Spenny's amusing prank.  I
only came back to camp  because I heard the giggling, and figured that they
were messing with my Rover.  On the other hand, if you want to escalate
things... ;-)

RoverOn!

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg        Purple Shark Media              Rowayton, CT
                       jeff@purpleshark.com
                        ==================
                   Love is fine until you taste
          This melancholy bouillabaisse called letting go
                                                       --Jimmy Buffett
                                                         

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 14:15:44 -0700
From: "John Y. Liu" <johnliu@earthlink.net>
Subject: Unimog, D90, SIII Ads

This'll be short.  Local Los Angeles-area truck trader rag has 1967 Unimog
w/ 25K miles for $9,500, 310 597 0755; 1995 Defender 90 w/ hardtop for
$35,000, 213 468 4348; 1972 SIII 88" for $6,500, 818 359 826; 1972 SIII 88"
for $7,500, 805 251 0123.  Perhaps of interest to someone.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 08:52:05 +1000
From: Paul Nash <paul@frcs.alt.za>
Subject: Re: Scrathed Swivel Balls

>One of the swivel balls on my newly acquired LR has go a series of scratches
>on them stuffing the seal up and making the oil leak out. Is it possble to
>sand the scratches down so the the ball is smooth again and replace the
>seals to get rid of the leak. Or does the ball need to be replaced.

My 109 has quite badly pitted balls.  While I wait to get around to
replacing them (Real Soon Now, like before 2001), I've cut back on leaks by
filling them with a mixture of SAE90 hypoid oil, Wynn's stop-leak and one
of those Slick50-type teflon lubes.  I know that it's better to fix the
problem properly, but everything seems OK and I now use about the same
amount of this mix as I used of ordinary SAE90 in my diesel back home
(500ml/3mo), rather than pouring oil straight through the hub.

>Apparently the swivel balls are very hard to get in Australia. Is this true
>(For the Oz contingent)

Four-Wheel Drives in Melbourne seem to be able to supply almost anything by
mail or rail.  The last time I asked them, a complete rebuilt swivel
housing (new/rechromed ball, new taper bearing, Raiko bush, seal, preload
set) was about $250 + your old housing.

	Four Wheel Drives
	304 Middleborough Road
	Blackburn South
	VIC 3130

	Tel: (03) 98900509
	Fax: (03) 98986374

If there are any other decent suppliers, I'd like to hear about them,
although I've been pretty happy with FWD's service so far.

	paul
--
Paul Nash
37 Tyson St, Canberra, ACT 2602, AUSTRALIA
South African in exile in (depressed) Canberra

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 19:16:52 -0400
Subject: Re: SII options

Trevor writes:
>A 1962 Land Rover brochure shows a British Columbia licenced vehicle with a 
>standard bonnet (no dent) and bonnet mounted spare (no straps).

Is the front picture a head-on shot with the LR climbing a rocky trail with
license "D1 690" British Columbia 59. If so its a shot they used in 1960 on
several brochures. LR frequently recycled artwork, sometimes with major
revisions. BTW, in 1962 LRs were SIIA, not SII. Picky yes, but try to find
engine parts for an SII engine.

David Cockey
60 SII SW
60 SII PU

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 19:27:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Choke Thermostat Switch

Relative to the choke warning light (mixture control warning light according
to LR) Ian writes:
>On my 1980's 109, the light is switched on the cable. There is a small 
>(quater-inch) square "cylinder" strapped to the choke cable just as it 
>leaves the bulkhead [engine side]

Through at least SIIAs the light is hook in series to the switch on the cable
and then a thermostatic switch at the front of cylinder head which grounds it
until sufficently warm. No idea what temperature the switch opens at.

David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 09:01:37 +0900
From: Alan Logue <Logue@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: Re: D90 tailgate on a Series III?

Just a tip.....the series II gauges ran on 12 volts, and the series III
gauges run on 10volts (I think). They (the series III ones) use a small
voltage reducer usually screwed to the back of the speedo. I believe that
this was done to make the gauges more stable - particularly the fuel gauge.
My old Series II used to move up and down when I stopped at the traffic
lights, the series III does not. 

At 14:38 20/8/96 BST, you wrote:
>> >Does anybody know if a D90 tailgate will fit onto a Series III?
>> >Thanks,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 22 lines)]
>me some gauges and odds & ends.
>Richard  (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)
==============================================
Logue & Associates
Alan and Catherine Logue
Training & Development Consultants
PO Box 689
Morphett Vale
South Australia
Phone 61-(0)8-83844443	Fax 61-(0)8-83267227

------------------------------

From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Scrathed Swivel Balls
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 09:40:15 +0930 (CST)

Miroslav Belik writes:
> One of the swivel balls on my newly acquired LR has go a series of scratches
> on them stuffing the seal up and making the oil leak out. 
 
> Apparently the swivel balls are very hard to get in Australia. Is this true
> (For the Oz contingent)

Miroslav, the swivel balls on a stage 1 are unique to stage 1's, nothing 
else fits.  Best guess would be to get them re-chromed, the sec. of our 
club had balls re-chromed recently for ~ $40 (?) each I think.

> SIII Stage 1 82 3.9 ISUZU

You Lucky, lucky, lucky man...........

Oh before I forget as your stage 1 is a 3.9 d make sure the g/box you get 
has 0.996 transfer gears, otherwise you will lose top speed.  this box 
was used on the 3.9 stage 1's and 110, and on one of the rangies (the 
3.5 efi I think).

cheers
-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 21:49:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Scrathed Swivel Balls

On Wed, 21 Aug 1996, Paul Nash wrote:

> Four-Wheel Drives in Melbourne seem to be able to supply almost anything by
> mail or rail.  The last time I asked them, a complete rebuilt swivel
> housing (new/rechromed ball, new taper bearing, Raiko bush, seal, preload
> set) was about $250 + your old housing.

	One amusing thing to consider is that Four-Wheel Drives has offered
	Ottawa Valley Land Rovers members a 20% discount.  In theory, if
	you sent OVLR $20, you would get a discount of $50, thus save $30
	right off the bat at joining...  :-)  What makes it more interesting
	is that if you did this, it would be an exiled South African, in
	Australia, joining a Canadian club to get a discount!

	Rgds,

	Dixon

------------------------------

From: Gregspitz@aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 22:33:53 -0400
Subject: Re: British Car Union Festival, Sept. 8, 1996

Please allow me to enter....
Greg Spitz MD,FACS
1400 Huey Court
Batavia,Illinois
60510

1995 Land Rover Defender 90...IL License MY DFNDR

------------------------------

From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com>
Subject: RE: FC101 Prototype
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 1996 23:17:00 -0400
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

FYI the Dunsfold Museum has, I believe, the very first prototype. It has a rather non-production looking snout...

cheers
Jim

----------
From: 	Dixon Kenner[SMTP:dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca]
Sent: 	Monday, August 19, 1996 5:42 AM
Subject: 	Re: disc brake conversions

On Sat, 17 Aug 1996, Lloyd Allison wrote:

>     I am told that there were 4 FC 101" prototypes.
> One is here in Melbourne, one I think went to Canada.
> They began life with 3L 6-cyl engines, ENV diffs and part-time 4WD.
> I believe one got destroyed somehow.
> Can anyone confirm / deny / add_to   any of the above?
	There are a pair (numbers 2 and 3, though number 2 may actually 
	be number 1.  Owner is checking on this from other numbers on the 
	vehicle) sitting, rusting away about 32 miles from where I sit.
	There is a third sitting in a museum in England.

	While they look like 101's, there are differences between them and
	the production models.  The entire cab arrangement is different,
	the drivers front windscreen opens, there is a kinda turret over
	the passenger seat, the steering is a complete dogs breakfast (fixed
	in production.  These are very snakey to drive).  When Spencer 
	finishes getting moved, the Identa-Rover pages in the FAQ will
	be getting a series of photos of them.

	Rgds,

	Dixon

------ =_NextPart_000_01BB8EED.A20A54C0

------------------------------

From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com>
Subject: RE: D90 steering wheels
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 1996 23:20:21 -0400
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

No NAS D90 (or any other Defender, FTM) has an airbag. This is precisely =
the reason (at least for now) why the NAS D90 for 1997 is supposed to be =
*all she wrote.* This because ALL vehicles sold in US in 1998 must have =
airbags...

I have seen a few D90 owners around with MOMO steering wheels. The trick =
is to find the hub mounting kit - the wheel is easy once you have =
that...

cheers
Jim

----------
From: 	Allan Smith[SMTP:smitha@candw.lc]
Sent: 	Monday, August 19, 1996 10:39 PM
Subject: 	Re: D90 steering wheels

Hi all - a couple of weeks ago there was some discussion about chopping =
up rear
bulkheads to improve front space/driver position. One option that was =
proposed
from the US was fitting a steering wheel with less dish.

Are there any replacement steering wheels available for the Defender in =
the US?
Didn't all US-spec 90s come with airbags?

So far I have only LR options on my ROW 90 but I have never liked the
Discovery-style steering wheel with the large centre boss and would =
happily
change it for a plainer-looking spoked wheel that doesn't block most of =
the dash
info when turning. (I can keep the plastic thing for when I'm restoring =
to
concours condition 30 years from now :-).
Cheers
Allan

------ =_NextPart_000_01BB8EED.A4AFD240

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 23:17:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Stage One Driveshafts

Here's a question for the Stage One owners (and anyone else with some insight) 
out there:

Are you having problems with driveshaft bolts coming loose?  Or do I just have a 
problem with my installation that I'm missing? Like on any other vehicle I've 
been using the proper size bolts (grade 5 or 8) as well as copious amounts of 
locktite and I still have to tighten them every time I'm under the vehicle.

The reason for this question is that I've had both driveshafts let go (as in 
break the bolts at the flange) within the past 18 months. The first was the 
front which let go at the diff (stupid me thought the vibration was from an out 
of balance wheel)...luckily I was able to reinstall with no ill effects.  
The second instance was today.  The rear driveshaft let go at 70 mph (no 
vibration warning this time) AT THE TRANSMISSION.  I am still thanking my lucky 
stars that the vehicle didn't pitch-pole (as old drag racers would when breaking 
a driveshaft).

Much red-faced....and a little worse for wear....I don't want this to happen 
again.

Rgds,
Eric

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 23:30:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: FC101 Prototype

On Mon, 19 Aug 1996, Jim Pappas wrote:

> FYI the Dunsfold Museum has, I believe, the very first prototype. It has
> a rather non-production looking snout... 

	To fit the longer 6 cylinder engine.  There is a V8 prototype in
	the UK too somewhere.  Saw a picture in LRO or some such magazine
	a couple years ago.  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Aug 1996 22:32:48 -0700
From: faurecm@halcyon.com (C. Marin Faure)
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

>Hi, I'm new to the group. My 1964 LR (purchased locally last year from a
>long time owner) came with the spare tire mtd. behind the seat, and had
>mounts on the hood/bonnet (take your pick!) I found the added weight a pain
>when I moved the tire to the bonnet, plus, it holds water, tending to make
>the wheel rust unless you wipe it dry after every rain.

I have always carried my spare on the bonnet since buying my Series III new
23 years ago, but as this poster said, it does collect water.  I know there
are covers you can put over the tire, but I elected to drill a small hole
through the wheel at the bottom of the "channel."  I mount the tire so this
hole is toward the front of the vehicle (the bonnet angles down on level
ground) and I've never had a problem with water collection since.  Should I
ever actually need to use the spare, the hole is so small I can't conceive
of it compromising the strength of the wheel at all.

C. Marin Faure
  '73 LR Series III 88
  '91 RR Vogue SE

------------------------------

From: ARTuro500@aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 03:10:57 -0400
Subject: Series Steering Wheels

Recently mention was made of a decent treatment for steering wheel decay. 

My imitation leather steering wheel cover came apart recently leaving me with
blackened hands after long, sweaty drives. It's definitely ready for an
epoxy-type treatment.

In the meantime, I found that the wrapping tape designed for touring bicycle
handlebars works very well. A kit typically comes with two lengths of
non-adhesive tape which applies nicely on the wheel. It's a bit tricky
threading through where the chrome wire meets the black stuff, though. 

I used an additional length to cover the whole wheel. Heat applied to the
tape end bonds it. Very comfortable material that looks great and preserves
the original appearance of the wheel. Cost is right, too, at about $5.00.

Paul Driscoll
'65 88 IIA HT

------------------------------

From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Stage One Driveshafts
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 17:03:52 +0930 (CST)

Eric writes:

> Are you having problems with driveshaft bolts coming loose?  Or do I just have a 
> problem with my installation that I'm missing? Like on any other vehicle I've 
> been using the proper size bolts (grade 5 or 8) as well as copious amounts of 
> locktite and I still have to tighten them every time I'm under the vehicle.

Sorry eric cant help much, never had any *real* problem, found a couple 
of loose nuts on the g/box rear on one occasion, never had a problem at 
the diff ends or with the front shaft.  ( mind you i know of a D110 owner 
who was very lucky, two bolts missing and the other two finger tight on 
rear diff.  What grade of locktite are you using ??  I use 242 (blue) on 
the diff ends and 222 (purple) on the g/box ends.  Maybe you need 262 
(red) or (heaven forbid) something like 601 (green) or  271 (? this is 
mentioned in the g/box section of the manual)

cheers and best of luck

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: D90 tailgate on a Series III?
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 96 8:41:34 BST

> Just a tip.....the series II gauges ran on 12 volts, and the series III
> gauges run on 10volts (I think). They (the series III ones) use a small
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> My old Series II used to move up and down when I stopped at the traffic
> lights, the series III does not. 

Alan Richter sent a similar reply via private email. Putting the two together
I get a "decent" picture, and it appears that I might want SII gauges rather
than SIII gauges!!

The story is:
I have a 24V FFR SIII. The fuel guage is of the wobbly kind. This had to be 
replaced a few months back - the replacement is also wobbly.
Both temp. gauges were capillary ones, but both are broken, so I'm replacing
them with 12V "civvie" examples. After suggestions from this list, I'm
using water bits for the oil gauge too (as there is no such thing as civvie
12V oil gauges).
I'm going to build a simple 12V regulator sufficient to power 2 gauges off it.
I've got the bits - just waiting for the time to build it.

Getting 10V from 12V is not a problem, I'll probably find a Zener diode.
Anyone know of how to find out if a gauge/sender combination are 12 or 10V?
The spare gauge I have already doesn't have any numbers on it (my old one
did, so I could easily "plonk" a connected sender in some water of known temp.)
Now you're going to tell me that none of them have numbers!!!

Cheers,

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1996 09:05:23 +0000
Subject: Re: Driveshaft bolts loose

Quoting Daryl Webb, from 21 Aug 96

> Are you having problems with driveshaft bolts coming loose?  Or do I
> just have a problem with my installation that I'm missing? 

Check that the two Universal Joints (the mechanical ones!) are lined up.

If you have seperated the driveshaft, you may not have aligned the two 
ends properly, causing undue stress on the bolts...

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

However strong my opinions are, they are mine and no-one elses.

------------------------------

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