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------------------------------

From: colleran@headwaters.com
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 07:47:37 +0400
Subject: socket wrench question

As others have pointed out here, the impact sockets are a heavier wall
construction, which may occasionally make it impossible to fit one into a
tight spot. I can't think of any such spots on a Series Rover off-hand, but
more those more experienced may be able to. As for the "too heavy" for
comfortable handling line: it's just that -- a line. Do Searsdroids work on
commission, or something?

One good alternative might be to buy an impact set for normal use (with or
without impact driver or air ratchet) plus a 'long' thin-wall set for spots
with limited clearance around the hex you're trying to get at. I don't know
about Sears in the US, but in Canada they have sales about 3-4 times a year
when lots of Craftsman tools drop to about 1/2 or even 1/3 their normal
(somewhat inflated) normal price. These long sockets seem to be a regular
sale-time feature. At the reduced price, they are a good buy, in my
opinion.

One word of caution -- don't succumb to the temptation to slip a thin wall
long socket onto the old impact driver and wail away at anything more
substantial than a 1/4" set screw. They can, and will when least desired,
fly apart if overstressed. Lovely chrome plated shrapnel!

As for compressors -- I'd recommend getting the biggest one you can afford.
I worked away with a 1 hp portable for years and in many ways it was fine.
But I've recently gotten a 6 hp/220v job with a big tank. Man ,what a
difference! My little air ratchet is no longer just a quick way to finger
tighten small nuts. And an air sander is truly a wonderful thing -- but it
just won't work without plenty of cfm.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 08:12:02 -0400
From: Rob MacCormick <Rob_MacCormick@Harvard.Edu>
Subject: wince

Seeing the recent notes on impact wrenches I thought I'd share this snippet
from my bulletin board:

"A mechanic warns us that we should disconnect an impact wrench before
trying to remove a nut jammed in the wrench's socket. He didn't. When he
pulled on the nut and the trigger at the same time, the wrench instantly
screwed the nut securely onto his thumb. He says that it hurt even more
coming off, probably because he had time to think about it." 

For what its worth The article says the mechanic is from KB alloys in
Wenatchee, WA 

Safety first!
Rob M Concord, MA USA

------------------------------

From: D90Dan@aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 09:31:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Commercial plug

Well I had a experience with AB. This was about a year ago. I bought a frame
from them. When I recieved it everything( crossmember,outriggers,exhaust
mounts) was bent/twisted or broken off. I told the truck driver I would not
accept it. Well lo and behold on the freight ticket it said "frame has many
dents and bent parts". They shipped it in that condition!!! Well I called AB
and they told me to accept it and we would work it out(ie: return it on
another bill of lading and they would replace it). I was mad because of the
time it would take. Well I accepted it(mistake) and then they sent me a new
battery tray! Saying this was their retro.  I called and called. Never got a
response other than " Oh **** is woking on it". Well finally I sent it back
with my own money and cancelled payment on my credit card. They sent me a
check for the shipping(the original shipping was paid back, the return to
them I had to bite). I told them in not so many kind words to "Have a nice
day". About a week later I called RN. They ordered a frame for me, 6 weeks
later I had a excellent frame sitting in my garage. I will NEVER use AB
again, not even if it meant if one of my rovers wasn't running. They lost a
customer with 6 rovers(I'm sure they don't care). But hopefully nobody else
gets the shaft from them.........I only use RN now. People who actually care
about what they are doing. Service after the sale gets more sales!!!!!

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 09:52:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Gaiter question

On Thu, 15 Aug 1996, ASFCO@aol.com wrote:
>     Finishing up the swivel ball rebuild and just installed the gaiters, the
>concept seems good  but, even with the laced seam pointing down allowing for
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>Rgds
>Steve Bradke

My experience with gaiters has been pretty good.  Certianly they might catch a 
little debris but nothing compared to the "sandblasting" the unprotected swivels 
get every day.  Every time I check for damage after off-roading, I'll squeeze 
the gaiter to check that no water has accumulated....I've also seen quite a few 
older gaitered axles and so long as the gaiters are in decent shape, the swivels 
were as well.

Rgds,
Eric

_______________________________________________________________________
OVERLAND MOTORS...."EXPEDITION SPECIALISTS"	    1075 Washington St.
Land Rover - Range Rover - Discovery - Defender	    Peekskill, NY 10566 USA
http://www.OverlandMotors.com  Fax: (914) 734-4352  Phone: (914) 734-4333
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 09:42:14 -0400
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Re: Commercial plug

D90Dan@aol.com wrote:

> Well I had a experience with AB. This was about a year ago. I bought a frame
> from them.
> ...I only use RN now. People who actually care
> about what they are doing. Service after the sale gets more sales!!!!!

To toss in my personal experience, I also bought a frame from AB about a year
ago.  It too had some damage, bent gasoline outrigger and a couple of bent 
tags.  Looked like damage from a fall.  AB was quite receptive.  Would accept
shipping back at their cost (major hassle for me) but we finally settled on
cash credit without a major problem.  You all can see the outrigger damage at
Mid-Atlantic Rover Rally.  They also were able to get front panels for the 
fenders that RN could not.

With that said:  I use RN for most of my purchases.  Why?  I'm
a newbie to all this automotive mechanical stuff and when I buy from
RN, I'm not just buying the part I'm buying techincal support (which
I desperately need).   AB has poor technical support and worse
yet, they'll tell you info that is just plain wrong.  Someday when 
I get good at all this stuff, I'll probably shop at the various places
for best price, but for a newbie, I still need the Charlie and Lanny
tutorials.
-- 
Nate Dunsmore
Rocking Horse Farm
Boring, MD 21020
dunsmo19@us.net

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 16 Aug 96 10:01:26 EDT
Subject: Anti-Corrosion Coatings, Take 2!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 10:38:28 -0400
From: cmw@tiac.net (cmw)
Subject: window channel

Hello everyone.

Looking to replace the window tracks in my 109" SW.  Anyone got a decent
figure for the total number of meters of track I should need?  I'm wondering
what traps I need to avoid in approaching this job.  As always, any advice
would be appreciated.

Chris
 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 Christopher Weinbeck       Office Logic, Inc.      V (508) 392-0288
   _______                  7 Littleton Road        F (508) 692-0897   
  |__][_[_\__               Westford, MA 01886    Computerization for 
  |___\_|_]__]                                      the healthcare
    (o)    (o)  '69 109" RHD OD 2.6 Dormobile        professional        
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 07:47:42 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Bonnet spare carrier

;
>Can the bonnet spare carrier be
>installed on one of the rounded
;edge bonnets without the flat
>dished out area in the centre?

There are three common bonnets on the series II & III Land Rovers.  The
Deluxe bonnet without the centre depression, the deluxe bonnet with the
centre depression and the standard bonnet.  If you look at the bonnet from
head on, id the front lip is rolled, it is a deluxe bonnet.  If it just
ends, its the standard bonnet.  I assume when you ordered the car new you
could specify bonnet.

The deluxe bonnet with the depression was always fitted with a tyre mount
gear.  The deluxe bonnet without depression was almost never, maybe never
fitted with spare tyre mounting hardware.  The standard bonnet came ether
way.

I think in general if the car came with a rear mounted spare tyre carrier,
the bonnet came without the mounting gear.

The purpose of the depression in the deluxe bonnet is to lower the spare
tyre and provide better forward visibility.

The deluxe bonnets without depression, I believe share the same underbonnet
ribbing as the others (I don't have one to compair) and should be able to
support a spare tyre no problem.

On the other hand you may be able to trade your bonnet to someone else for
the one you want

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

From: D90Dan@aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 10:59:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Commercial plug

Cheers (drinking a black&tan)

------------------------------

From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 11:07:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Bonnet spare carrier

TeriAnn wrote...

> I think in general if the car came with a rear mounted spare tyre carrier,
> the bonnet came without the mounting gear.

My IIa station wagon has both a deluxe bonnet w/spare mount and
a rear plate on the door for a second spare. I'm, as far as I know, the
third owner of the vehicle, and so far the only thing I found that was 
modified from the original was an ashtray mounted to the dash. So I'd
put money that it came off the line that way. It may have been a custom
order, but according to the letter returned from Solihull it was shipped
to boston for "distribution into the NA dealer network"... That kind of
makes me think it was not a special order.

But then again, maybe the SW's were handled differently, and by default
had a different set of standard equipment. I thought SW's had the tropical
roof w/vents, alpine windows, deluxe bonnet, inside trim, side steps, 
and the 4 jump seats, and thats what defined a SW. Maybe the second spare
mount was also part of the package. 

OTOH, does anyone have an ambulance door *without* the spare mount?

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 14:09:14 -0400
Subject: Appropriate Music for Land Rover

Two submissions:  
1.  If you have a tape player in your Land Rover, the Rakoszky March from the
Damnation of Faust by Hector Berlioz.

2.  If, like mine, your Rover is not wired for sound, a most satisfying
solution is to drive it to the nearest  bar,  listen for agreeable music,
park and enter.    In this way you can enjoy the music, get refreshed and not
worry about traffic.

Zum Wohl,

Paul Donohue
65 Dormobile

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 11:08:24 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Painting Prep. Observations (Goldenrod?)

Just thought I'd pass on some observations from my experience in 
prepping Mathilda (SIIA 109 SW) for painting.  Hope these are of 
interest/use to someone.

The observations are on treating the aluminium prior to application of 
primer. I used the Dupont 225 (step A)/226 (step B) products which are 
designed to chemically clean then etch and increase corrosion 
resistance on aluminum, respectively.

On the first application to metal stripped using aircraft stripper and 
then left sitting for a few weeks, the products did not work 
particularly well.  I also discovered that although the vehicle was 
"pre-stripped" there were random splotches of clear coat (or ?) on so I 
ran a "plastic" drill operated stripping disk over the entire body 
prior to prepping.

Opening up the surface like this had a dramatic improvement and I'd 
recommend it.  The second stage took quite well and left the surface 
with the characteristic golden tinge.  

The most important observation is with regards to galvanized trim.  It 
is critical when using these products that all trim be masked off or it 
will be stained.  The few spots where this occurred I was able to rub 
out with a damp rag a minute or so after completing application.  Keep 
a running hose handy for rapid washdowns.  I'd add that you should 
immediately remove the masking after treatment because inevitable with 
the amount of fluid involved some gets under the tape.  Hose the entire 
vehicle down for a few minutes.  Any masking left on will possibly trap 
the treatment fluids and corrode the trim.  Be prepared to do a lot of 
masking.

To do a 109 took 1 bottle (just less than a litre) of 225 and just 
under 4 bottles of 226.  

Now Mathilda has a nice golden sheen and is looking forward to a 
self-etching primer and fill primer application.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 15:00:20 -0400
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: VR-Generator Continuum

Hi all,

Just got off the phone RN, ordering parts, and thought I'd share this
tidbit from Charlie:

In Charlie's opinion, the overwhelming cause of generator failures
is a faulty VR.  Therefore, unless one can decipher the method of
testing the VR in the manual (I couldn't), and if one does not
have an ammeter (like my LR) the only other way to test for a
bad VR is to put in a generator and see if it burns up again.

Since a VR is cheaper than a generator, I guess I'll replace
both.  Other people's opinions welcome.
-- 
Nate Dunsmore
Rocking Horse Farm
Boring, MD 21020
dunsmo19@us.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 15:25:30 -0500
From: "John P. Casteel" <jcasteel@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: window channel

Chris,  

The latest (Issue 8, July 96) issue of LROI has a piece about replacing 
the window seals.  If I speedread correctly, for an 88" you need five 2 
meter lengths of window channelling.  It may be worth $7.95 to purchase 
the mag.  If all else fails let me know and I'll copy the article for 
you.

John Casteel
"Anybody wan'na buy my 90 Range Rover?  I want a Series"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 12:29:35 -0700
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: Appropriate Music for Land Rover

I'm partial to "On the Road Again" but change the words to "Off the Road
Again" and change the lyrics to suit as well.  Of course I have no radio
(other than a CB) in my Series III because I'd only be able to listen to it
when parked.  So I play it meself on me harp (harmonica).  I don't play that
well but can't hear it all that well anyway, so it serves.

Granny

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 15:31:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: VR-Generator Continuum

On Fri, 16 Aug 1996, Nathan Dunsmore wrote:

> In Charlie's opinion, the overwhelming cause of generator failures
> is a faulty VR.  Therefore, unless one can decipher the method of
> testing the VR in the manual (I couldn't), and if one does not
> have an ammeter (like my LR) the only other way to test for a
> bad VR is to put in a generator and see if it burns up again.

	Faulty in what sense?  Unaware of what the manual says (being
	at work currently, though arguably not really working this second)
	I would think the fastest and easiest way to check a VR is
	to use a volt meter and see what voltage is coming off the VR
	at different RPM.

> Since a VR is cheaper than a generator, I guess I'll replace
> both.  Other people's opinions welcome.

	Well, looking at RN: US$66.50 for the VR, US$89.50 for the dynamo

	Someone else can put in BP, ABP etc prices for fun...

	Looking at the UK:     L13.85 for the VR,   L31.35 for the dynamo

	In Canadian terms, buying both at RN = Cdn$213.72 + GST + shipping
			     "     "   "  UK =  "   97.18 + GST + shipping

	FYI  Dynamo is a Lucas C-40   or LR part number RTC3840E
	     VR     is a Lucas RB-106 or LR part number RTC3862
	     Since LR never made these bits, whether or not it is in a pretty
	     LR box is inmaterial.  However, when you do get one of these
	     there is a date stamped on the casing.  I have seen some that
	     have 20 year old dates stamped on them and are thus rebuilt
	     units (I'd betcha LUCAS have not made this dynamo in years and 
	     most will be rebuilt units anyway).  UK price could even be
	     lower if one shops aroun probably...
	

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AAE.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Fri, 16 Aug 1996 14:47:10 -0500
Subject:       Re: VR-Generator Continuum

Dixon writes:
Snip
>          units (I'd betcha LUCAS have not made this dynamo in years and 
>          most will be rebuilt units anyway).  UK price could even be
>          lower if one shops aroun probably...
Why bother ordering by mail. Any decent automotive electrical shop 
should be able to rebuild a generator, and probably have a regulator 
too.

Tom Rowe   

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 15:45:39 -0400
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Re: VR-Generator Continuum

Dixon Kenner wrote:
>         Faulty in what sense?  Unaware of what the manual says (being
>         at work currently, though arguably not really working this second)
>         I would think the fastest and easiest way to check a VR is
>         to use a volt meter and see what voltage is coming off the VR
>         at different RPM.

The problem comes in that certain voltage ranges are expected at certain
RPM's.  Therefore, one must have an ACCURATE (read: not mine) voltmeter
and tachometer.  Lacking both, I am at a disadvantage, although if the 
test were simple enough to set up, I'd try doing the ol' audio-tachometer 
with my crappy voltmeter.

As for price, I'd feel like a cad to call RN for advice and then not buy
the part there...kind of the consumer equivalent of a business selling
a car they can't service, I guess.

"Faulty VR was explained to me as "a bad winding" or some such thing.
God knows I don't understand 'em.

-- 
Nate Dunsmore
Rocking Horse Farm
Boring, MD 21020
dunsmo19@us.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Aug 96 07:42:22 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Message snipping by the digest

>>> some combination of mailer and major that causes the message 
to be lost in the digest (from what I have heard from others these messages 
make it to the real time list).

I'm on the "real-time" list and so far they have all been clipped. 

Dave B

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 17:00:46 -0700
From: Heather Dixon <hldixon@top.monad.net>
Subject: Re: Painting Prep. Observations (Goldenrod?)

<< Be prepared to do a lot of masking.>>

7 day masking tape works great if you can't mask and paint in the same 
day.

We all know how hard it is to get masking tape that has been left on too 
long.

Heather
1970 88

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 14:18:44 -0700
From: Gordon Rea <grea@net.gov.bc.ca>
Subject: A few thing....

A couple weekends ago while camping on a local river (the squamish)
 I met a couple other LRO. As well as the cougar they came across
 that afternoon, they also saw a convoy of fully decked out Discos
 that had the full Safari gear and were painted yellow. Back in town
 I mention this to some others and they had also heard about a
 convoy of Discos and RRs that were doing a trek through B.C. to
 the Yukon. One person claimed that there are 14 Landrovers in the
(Whatever colective noun you prefer, I like "Drove").
 They are rumoured to be from
 Colorado but so far no one I've talked to knows for sure who
 these people are and where there going. Also rumoured is that a local
 LR dealer is buying a few of these to sell at the end of the trek.
 Is there anyone who knows any thing more about this ?
 
 Also , I came across a pewter chess set where the peices were British
 cars. Pawns were minis, King was a Rolls, Bishop a Jaguar...
 and the Knights were LR 88"s!!. Nice set if you won't miss the
 C$295 it costs. If anyone is interested I'll send you the phone # of
 the place I saw it.
 
 Also.., a fellow LRO is thinking of replacing his 73 88" 2.25l
 engine with a V6 chevy. He asked my advise (which I don't have one)
 so I said that I would ask the list. I would like to hear from anyone
 who has done this. How much work, how many $, are you happy with it?
 
 Cheers, Gordon

-- 

"For every problem, there is one solution which is simple, neat and
wrong."
- H.L.Mencken

------------------------------

From: "David J. Mercer" <merkin@sierra.net>
Subject: paint
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 14:39:44 -0700

Can some one please help with some paint questions, dose anyone have a =
list of paint color's for S1 and 2 Land Rovers with manufactures names =
of paint or numbers? Thanks in advance.

----------

David Mercer
PO BOX 2570
Olympic Valley CA 96146
ph  916-583-4150
fax 916-583-4829
merkin@sierra.net
53 S1 80"
57 S1 107" SW, FOR SALE
63 SII 88"
65 SII 88", FOR SALE
66 SII 88"
86 MB 280GE

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 18:11:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Bonnet spare carrier

The great spare tyre carrier debate. Tim responds to TeriAnn's supposition
that LRs were sold with only one spare tyre carrier.

>My IIa station wagon has both a deluxe bonnet w/spare mount and
>a rear plate on the door for a second spare. I'm, as far as I know, the
>third owner of the vehicle, and so far the only thing I found that was 
>modified from the original was an ashtray mounted to the dash.

Our '60 SII 88" SW also has the dished deluxe bonnet with spare mount, and
the remains of  a spare carrier on the rear door. We puchashed it from the
son of the original owner, and I believe both were delivered with the
vehicle. Prehaps one, probably the rear door mount was a dealer installed
option. The 8/59 Car Life test of a SII 88" SW shows a bonnet mounted spare
and no rear door carrier.

The parts books show the 4 rubber blocks for supporting the tyre as part of
the bonnet spare carrier.

Regards
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 18:39:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Bonnet brigade

More info for the "Bonnet" brigade.

I have several rovers here all 109's  I have a NADA that seems to have had
both a dished bonnet with spare and a rear door mount from new. 2 spares.
I have a 1968 109 with a deluxe bonnet (non dished, no mount) with the spare
on the back door. I have had Rovers with "standard" bonnets with the spare
out on the bonnet.  The small difference in height between the dished and
non-dished spare mounting is quite noticeable. Also the structure on the two
deluxe bonnets I have here at the moment are different. The dished one has
two extra stiffening ribs under the mountings for fixing the spare. If one
was desperate I suppose something could be fabricated but keeping in mind the
aforementioned height problem it is probably better to find a dished bonnet.
Be warned though that tire can get awfully heavy. 

Quintin Aspin
Rovers: more than sufficent 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Aug 96 18:46:59 EDT
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: paint

At 02:39 PM 8/16/96 -0700, David Mercer <merkin@sierra.net> wrote:
>Can some one please help with some paint questions, dose anyone have a
>list of paint color's for S1 and 2 Land Rovers with manufactures names
>of paint or numbers? Thanks in advance.

 Hi David,

 Try the Aftermarket Parts list at the URL below, it also has a link to
 the most comprehensive Land-Rover resource, the RoverWeb.  If you find
 paint codes we don't have, please let us know so we may keep current.

 Kind regards,
                        Hmmm.. wouldn't mind a bit of paint myself!
                         ______ /
 Michael Carradine       [__[__\==                    Rumpole of the Bay
 510-988-0900            [________]               Land-Rover Roughmobile
 cs@crl.com  __________.._(o)__.(o)____...o^^^  '65 IIA 2.235m (was 88")
 _______________________________________________________________________
 Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page:   http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 16:26:45 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Re: Painting Prep. Observations (Goldenrod?)

You wrote: 
>You mention an "aircraft stripper".  Would you hae a product name and
>possible source.

Jasco - ordinary paint/epoxy remover - apparently identical to "aircraft 
stripper" available at some auto (or aircraft :) ) paint supply stores (aka 
"jobbers").  I'll bet `Crappy Tire' sells it or an equivalent :)  I've used it 
quite successfully.  Buy goggles and long sleeve heavy duty gloves; this stuff 
is caustic!  Apply it with a cheep articial brush and encourage the stripper to 
come off with a stiff brush.  Keep it away from anything you don't want 
destroyed.  Ideally the bodywork would be separate from any other part of the 
vehicle before you work on it.  I'd definitely not use this stuff inside an 
engine bay.  

>My beast has three coats of paint in some spots.  The original yellow put on
>for Shell Oil, a dark green that looks like it may have been put on with a
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>aluminum.
>			Rick Grant

You'll probably need several coats of stripper.  You'll probably find that the 
stripper takes off the paint by layer.  It definitely tended to do this on mine. 
 The primer took one to two applications to get off.  Use of aircraft stripper 
helps minimize damage/wear on the panels from physical stripping and makes any 
required "brushing" quite easy.

cheers,

Jeremy

P.S. Which quadrant of Calgary are you in?  I assume you offroad up in the 
foothills.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 19:52:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: James Kirkpatrick - INEN/F94 <jkirkpat@acs.ryerson.ca>
Subject:  Rovers in va

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 20:24:45 -0400
Subject: Re: A real find for antirust coatings! (In the US...)

OK you have our attention...now what did you find?

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 20:24:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Gaiter question

Thanks Greg.......Will keep 'em
BTW where on Long Island are you?? (I get there a couple times a month in
fact leaving for there right now and back home here to Albany Later today
Rgds
Steve

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 17:26:29 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: VR-Generator Continuum

At  3:00 PM 8/16/96 -0400, Nathan Dunsmore wrote:

>In Charlie's opinion, the overwhelming cause of generator failures
>is a faulty VR.  Therefore, unless one can decipher the method of
;testing the VR in the manual (I couldn't), and if one does not
>have an ammeter (like my LR) the only other way to test for a
>bad VR is to put in a generator and see if it burns up again.
;
>Since a VR is cheaper than a generator, I guess I'll replace
>both.  Other people's opinions welcome.

If a generator is no longer working the first thing I do is check the
brushes.  Replacing brushes is realtivly easy and cheaper than a voltage
regulator and a generator.  Of course, if my battery is running down or not
seeming to charge, I clean the battery terminals and check the wiring
connections to the generator & voltage regulator first.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 21:30:52 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Test

Alan DuBoff wrote:

>Hold down the alt key and type 156 on the number pad...

£.

Hot damn.  It works!  Ok, Alan, how are you at lottery numbers?....  ;-)

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *----1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7 ----*

------------------------------

From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com>
Subject: RE: Gaiter question
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 23:09:17 -0400
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Steve:

The gaiters work pretty well. I have found that it helps to pack them =
with grease and inspect them occasionally. Especially if you run the =
truck during the salt season...

Most of the militarys come with them as standard.

cheers
Jim

----------
From: 	ASFCO@aol.com[SMTP:ASFCO@aol.com]
Sent: 	Thursday, August 15, 1996 5:27 PM
Subject: 	Gaiter question

     Finishing up the swivel ball rebuild and just installed the =
gaiters, the
concept seems good  but, even with the laced seam pointing down allowing =
for
drainage, IS IT REALLY?
what are we likely to find in there after a year or so ? sand/ grit =
allowing
more wear? dampness? road salt residue ?
will the gaiters prove to be beneficial or should I take 'em off now?
anybody else have any experience with these ?
Thanks
Rgds
Steve Bradke

------ =_NextPart_000_01BB8BC5.332B1420

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 21:49:05 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: Re: Gaiter question

Steve wrote:
 
> Thanks Greg.......Will keep 'em
> BTW where on Long Island are you??

Long Island! I'm comfortably located 3500 miles west of Long Island on 
Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada :-) For those who are 
wondering the LR came out by train - it was winter, the heater was/is 
broke, you get the idea. Sorry about the spatial ambiguity of my address 
line but hey if you are ever out this way...

Cheers, Greg
Comox, B.C.  where we don't know from bonnets or boots but colour is 
spelled with a "u" just the same!

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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