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msgSender linesSubject
1 2[not specified]
2 CarDoctor@gnn.com (Rober33Defender disks on series Hubs?
3 "Adams, Bill" [badams@us17Re: Fluids
4 sjak.r.haaheim@vg.no 3[not specified]
5 cascardo@ix.netcom.com (16trailer wiring harness
6 harincar@internet.mdms.c15Re: Lug Wrench Blues
7 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em19Re: RR on fire! -- Need a replacement
8 SPYDERS@aol.com 31Any Ideas?
9 "Adams, Bill" [badams@us22Re: Any Ideas?
10 ecrover@midcoast.com (Mi53Re: Defender disks on series Hubs?
11 "Jens Vesterdahl" [jve@p26Re: Bonnet spare carrier
12 "Terje Krogdahl" [terje@2090/110 bulkeads
13 "Adams, Bill" [badams@us10Re: 90/110 bulkeads
14 "fisk.spencer" [fisk@gen38Carburettor ???'s
15 Andrew Howton [ahowton@a17Re: Defender disks on series Hubs?
16 harincar@internet.mdms.c20re: Any Ideas?
17 David Rosenbaum [rosenba34Re: trailer wiring harness
18 "Mark Talbot" [Land_Rove1564 109 for Sale in NH
19 lopezba@atnet.at 29Re: Message snipping by the digest
20 "Peter J. Gronous" [100615Yet another error
21 ASFCO@aol.com 16Gaiter question
22 eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heit19Picnic
23 "Tom Rowe" [trowe@aae.wi22Re: Gaiter question
24 "Brian Cotton" [Brian.Co26Holiday and Models
25 SPYDERS@aol.com 20Re: Any Ideas
26 SPYDERS@aol.com 4068 SIIA 109 Service Center?
27 rover@pinn.net (Alexande23What's in a name
28 Lodelane@aol.com 29Re: Gearbox and Steering box
29 twakeman@scruznet.com (T26Re: 68 SIIA 109 Service Center?
30 rover@pinn.net (Alexande25Bustin' nuts
31 Andrew Howton [ahowton@a19Rover weekend on Alberta B.C. border
32 Andrew Howton [ahowton@a30Re: 68 SIIA 109 Service Center?
33 Richard Ruffer [rruffer@17Re: Curious Info on a D90 value
34 Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A5A real find for antirust coatings! (In the US...)
35 jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (20Re: 68 SIIA 109 Service Center?
36 Greg Moore [gmoore@islan24Re: Gearbox and Steering box
37 Greg Moore [gmoore@islan29Re: Gaiter question
38 faurecm@halcyon.com (C. 58Re: Transmission Trouble
39 Jeff & Laura Kessler [lm14Lug Wrench
40 Jeff & Laura Kessler [lm27Commercial plug
41 Reto Rolli [/I=RER/G=Ret10Land Rover Music
42 edking@mailserv.maxinet.11Re: music
43 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u18Re: What's in a name
44 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u19Re: music
45 bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Boh18Re: Bonnet spare carrier
46 Stuart Conner [s.conner@19Problems with CSO Digest and UK LRO Digest
47 "Mr Ian Stuart" [Ian.Stu200Summer trip, a report
48 Stuart Conner [s.conner@40Knocking Engine ?
49 Stuart Conner [s.conner@16Installing a Sunroof
50 Mark Perry [rxq281@freen26music to rove by


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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 06:54:52
From: CarDoctor@gnn.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: Defender disks on series Hubs?

HI Fellow LR Owners,
   I realize that some people think I am joking about converting Defender 
brake parts to a series LR. From Looking at LR part books it appears that 
Some of the Defender brake parts will bolt up.  Other owners must have 
wondered about this. 
   Before I can worry about mounting points on the swivel housing I have to 
mount the disk firsts.  Someone on this list talked of a conversion done by 
a club member.  can I use defender hubs & bearings on a series LR? 
   I have been wondering if the defender swivels would fit the original 
swivel balls if the bearing points were modified.( this would provide the 
brake mounts) if this were possible a conversion would be possible without 
custom parts or serious modifications to the axle housing or the spring 
mounting points.
   I am hoping some of the UK  owners have looked into this kind of 
conversion because of the avalability of parts there.  I almost need to sit 
down with the parts to see what fits if no one knows if these parts can be 
interchanged with minor modifications.
   
   Please repond seriously to this inquiry.

Rob Davis_Chicago

Failure is not an option
Not on my watch.......

!971 (88)  Treeweaver
!965 (109SW)  OX
1968 (109 three door)  Dad's toy (only the caretaker)

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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 96 8:58:13 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Fluids

Congratulations on the frame-over. Fluids in the differential and 
transmission can be checked by removing the filler plug and sticking a 
finger in the hole. If you find oil there, you're probably OK, but 
otherwise, put in SAE 90 gear oil until it runs out the hole and then 
reinstall the plug.
As to the front axle, you have worn out the seals on the swivel balls, 
probably because of worn swivel pin bushings. It sounds as if this will 
be your next project. 
you can slow the rate of leakage by using SAE 140  oil in them.
  
Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

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From: sjak.r.haaheim@vg.no

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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 06:30:32 -0700
From: cascardo@ix.netcom.com (Lucas Andres Cascardo)
Subject: trailer wiring harness

Hello,

Can someone provide me with an alternate wiring harness other than the 
one sold by LR.  I need to pull a U-Haul with my D90 and was told I 
needed a special wiring harness specific to the car.  I found out this 
harness (PRC 4143) cost about $60.  From one catalog I dug up it looks 
like an extension to the seven pin plug under the car with two extra 
wires.  If this all it is I am hitting the electronics store.

Lucas C.
d90

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From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 08:06:15 -0500
Subject: Re:  Lug Wrench Blues

The first thing I did after buying my LR was drive it to WalMart and buy a 
bottle jack and the biggest cross-handle lug wrench that had a head that
fit. I think I paid $8 for it, and it works like a charm.

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 09:45:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: RR on fire! -- Need a replacement

On Thu, 15 Aug 1996, angela wrote:

> The RR has been declared a "total loss" by the Insurance Co., but no
> off, the Ins. Co. will own the wreck. It is a fantastic salvage Rover. All
> the body panels are in good shape, the engine and tranny are excellent, and
> of course, the axles, springs, and brakes are wishing they could return to
> greatness in a coil conversion. Unfortunately, it is out of my hands,
>.
	I don't know about the USA, but if this had happened in Canada 
	you could buy the wreck from the insurance company for a pittance.
	(The owner of the vehicle written off has this right to keep
	the vehicle for basically the scrap value of the steel in it)
	Then you would have all those lovely parts to sell off to someone
	else or keep yourself.  Worth asking about...

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 10:01:22 -0400
Subject: Any Ideas?

After 8500+ mile/ 5 week trip out west in the 110, a few things I'm not too
sure about...

1) After filling the tank to capacity, whenever I slow down, the needle
bounces about and drops to E. Also happens when I rock the vehicle. Symptoms
go away after 20-40 miles of driving. I'm hoping there isn't a Lucas short
circuit developing in the fuel tank. Just where I want sparks to appear...

2) power steering pump makes odd grinding noises only at idle and between
2000-2400 rpms. No loss in steering assistance and the reservoir is as full
as it should be. (Never had to add to it, either)

3) At high altitudes (7000-9000 feet) the engine would die when I pushed in
the clutch to stop at stop signs, red lights etc. I first solved the problem
by not stopping anymore... someone told me that stop signs with a white
border were optional anyway. When that became impractical, I changed the
relatively new airfilter. Seemed to work, but then I was already headed down
into denser atmosphere.

If anyone has any ideas about those syptoms, let me know...

thanks,

pat.
93 110

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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 96 10:21:29 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Any Ideas?

Well obviously the truck is no good. My suggestion is that you give it to 
me and I'll drive it while I wait for the inevitable cascade failure of 
all the systems, and you can have my rock solid 109.
If you absolutely >must< keep it, then you should have the sending unit 
in the tank checked and replaced ( no worry about sparks).
Power steering unit may be getting air in it somehow, perhaps through a 
cracked hose or bad fitting. Could be the pump is going.
Whoever told you that any stop sign is optional must have been tuning 
their Rover with the garage door closed for too long. I think the cop 
that writes you a ticket after you hand him that excuse will have a good 
story to tell his chums.
I am guessing here, but it seems that the engine management chip is not 
tuned properly for those high altitudes. Does it run properly when you 
come down out of the clouds?
 
Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 10:37:46 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Re: Defender disks on series Hubs?

>HI Fellow LR Owners,
> it appears that some of the Defender brake parts will bolt up.  Other
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>custom parts or serious modifications to the axle housing or the spring
>mounting points.

        This isn't easy. I'm not saying anything can't be done, but we are
agian looking at bolt up, as compared to fabricated, if you know what I
mean. We put Ford 9 inch rears in Range Rovers, so you can make anything
fit, but...
        The swivel ball housings themselves are different. The leaf ball is
larger in flange diameter than the coil *disc*. The coil also has a taper
inside the ball for the half shaft to ride in, the leaf half shaft is too
big. So to make it fit you'll have to, line bore the coil swivel ball, make
an adaptor to fit the leaf housing, have a custom half shaft made with
splines for the CV joint, etc. as the leaf half shaft has the wrong ends,
and the coil half shaft is too long.

        Leaf swivel ball mounting plate is approx. 5 inches, 6 bolt
        Coil swivel ball mounting plate is approx. 4 3/4 inches, 6 or 7
bolt *depends on year*
        Mounting holes are not even close to lining up.
        Coil balls are on roller bearings top and bottom
        Swivel pin casings are radically different sizes due to the smaller
ball on the coil system.

        The easy way, and a lot less costly, is find someone who makes a
kit out of Ford parts or something, or intsall a coil axle converted to
leaf springs. That would be a lot less custom work, and you'd have 4 wheel
disc brakes. You'll also have to change the pedal box, booster, and master
cylinder to D90, and do you brake lines over, with the addition of the
reduction valve for the rear system.
        Either way, you be digging deep in the pocket, and doing custom
fabrication and machine work.
        See ya.
        Any other questions about sizes or whatever, we have coil and leaf
stuff sitting here, feel free to ask.

>Rob Davis_Chicago
> it appears that some of the Defender brake parts will bolt up.  Other

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 96 16:26:02 
From: "Jens Vesterdahl" <jve@phaseone.dk>
Subject: Re: Bonnet spare carrier

Hi all.

Clinton "Duhh"glas Coates asks:

>Can the bonnet spare carrier be 
>installed on one of the rounded
>edge bonnets without the flat
>dished out area in the centre?

Well, pop rivets will fasten anything to anything very easily :-)

The problem is that the spare wheel is only touches the bonnet in the middle and 
sort of wobbles from side to side. I guess that eventually the whole thing will 
break, but back in 1982 I travelled for half a year in Africa with a spare 
mounted on a rounded bonnet like that and nothing broke then.

Happy Rovering

Jens Vesterdahl
Copenhagen, Denmark
1972 109 STW

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From: "Terje Krogdahl" <terje@multix.no>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 16:56:35 +0200
Subject: 90/110 bulkeads

I've noticed in the 90/110 parts manual, that the bulkead in front of
the driver on German LR's are different from the others. Does anyone know
exactly what the difference is? I have a German bulkhead, and I'm planning
a complex, multiperson swap in order to end up with a new SIII bulkead
for my 88, but I need to know a bit more aboth the German bulkeads first...

TK
1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol (w/rusty bulkead)

-- 
**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--
Terje Krogdahl              Multix A/S            Phone   +47 2206 2600
E-Mail: terje@multix.no     Lilleakerveien 31     Fax     +47 2206 2626
        support@multix.no   N-0283 OSLO, Norway   Support +47 2206 2628

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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 96 11:11:37 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: 90/110 bulkeads

German bulkheads have a special "schnitztel mit pommes" holder and a beer 
tap. Sie muessen auch Lederhosen tragen.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

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From: "fisk.spencer" <fisk@gene.COM>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 08:39:43 -0800
Subject: Carburettor ???'s

Hi all,

  After getting my newly aquired 109 running, I started to check the
carburettor settings, mostly due backfiring on decelleration and
stalling after the engine had warmed up at stop signs, lights and the
like.  I found that the PO had arranged a return spring for the cold
start (choke) helping to close it when it was depressed all the way into
it's off position.  Which leads me to the following questions:

1.  The first problem is that even with this return spring, the choke
never fully disengages to the full closed position on the carb.  I
removed the spring, oiled the cable, and now it closes, but still not
all the way.  This is making it difficult to adequately set the mixture
screw and the slow running screw.  The main question is how freely
should the starter lever be able to move when operating it by hand. 
Mine sticks quite a bit, and I feel this could be my problem.

2.  The second question is how do I set the idle to 500 RPM?  I have a
TACH/DWELL meter, but don't have the instructions and have never used
it.  I aquired it from my wife's father.  It's got a red black clips and
a switch for the different settings to read either the TACH or DWELL. 
Alright all of you experienced mechanics, I can hear you laughing all
the way out here in San Francisco...

Thanks for all of your help in advance..

Spencer Fisk

-- 
R. Spencer Fisk                                     Ph: (415) 225-5306
Genentech Recovery Sciences                        FAX: (415) 225-4049
E-Mail:  Fisk@gene.com

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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 09:44:28 -0600 (MDT)
From: Andrew Howton <ahowton@agt.net>
Subject: Re: Defender disks on series Hubs?

At 06:54 AM 8/14/96, you wrote:
>HI Fellow LR Owners,
>   I realize that some people think I am joking about converting Defender 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 36 lines)]
>!965 (109SW)  OX
>1968 (109 three door)  Dad's toy (only the caretaker)
I don't know if this helps or not but my 1982 109 uses the same wheel
bearings and hub seals as the RR and defender.  The hubs however are Sers in
all other aspects.  I hadn't tought of it before but I will see if the disk
hubs fit the next time I have the hubs off the rover.

Andrew Howton

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From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 12:30:59 -0500
Subject: re: Any Ideas?

Pat said...

> someone told me that stop signs with a white
> border were optional anyway.

God! I haven't heard *that* in a long time... :-) Too funny, I really needed
a laugh today. Please tell us you *do* understand that *all* stop signs, 
at least the ones in the US, have a white border...

Tim 
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW 

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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 11:31:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: trailer wiring harness

On Thu, 15 Aug 1996, Lucas Andres Cascardo wrote:
 > Can someone provide me with an alternate wiring harness other than the
 > one sold by LR.  I need to pull a U-Haul with my D90 and was told I
 > needed a special wiring harness specific to the car.  I found out this
 > harness (PRC 4143) cost about $60.  From one catalog I dug up it looks
 > like an extension to the seven pin plug under the car with two extra
 > wires.  If this all it is I am hitting the electronics store.

Dear Lucas:
In order to hook up your D90 to a U-Haul, I suggest a flat four pin plug
recepticle. U-Haul sells a harness that can be hooked up to the accessory
wires (found in the right rear speaker mount on '94 D90s). A converter box
is necessary because the U-Haul trailers have combination
parking/turning/stop bulbs instead of the separate amber and red lights of
the D90. I think the cost was about $40 and installation was easy.
I don't recall the color codes of the various wires (they are listed in
the shop manual), but you can figure them out with a test light. I seem to
recall that the purple wire is a HOT line that I taped up well and is not
needed for the four pin recepticle. (A Discovery owner, Bob Watson, has
used the Hot wire to make a recepticle for accessories needing twelve
volts by connecting a cigarette lighter recepticle to it: thus giving him
a rear power outlet)
I bought a "trailer wiring harness" from LRNA (I dont remember the part
no. but it was some seven pin type, but much smaller than others that I've
seen, and I was told that it fits a European standard.
For me, the flat four pin recepticle / plug is fine.

Best wishes,
David Rosenbaum

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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 96 18:42:35 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: 64 109 for Sale in NH

All, 

For Sale in Southern NH.

Land Rover 1964 5 door station wagon.  Blue. Overhauled brake and clutch 
systems. Both axles rebuilt with new swivels, bearings and seals. New shocks 
and springs. New exhaust and Tyres. Frame is solid with no rot. Lots of new 
parts, all genuine parts used. All receipts available.

 Asking $10,500.  603-357-3401, NH 

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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 21:05:22 +0200
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Message snipping by the digest

Peter Reynolds asks

>From: Peter Reynolds <Peter_Reynolds@mktplace.com>
>Date: 14 Aug 96 11:58:00 
>Subject: why are my message texts getting snipped

and 

>From: Peter Reynolds <Peter_Reynolds@mktplace.com>
>Date: 14 Aug 96 16:23:39 
>Subject: my messages are gettig clipped I am using lotus note mail and I  
was wondering if anyone could help

Can't be because you text is irrelevant, or none of mine would show up. 
There must be some combination of mailer and major that causes the message 
to be lost in the digest (from what I have heard from others these messages 
make it to the real time list). Maybe if us second-class digest subscribers 
all got together and sent complaints to the administrator it would help? The 
address is
majordomo-owner@land-rover.team.net
Unity is strength!
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

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Date: 15 Aug 96 16:32:18 EDT
From: "Peter J. Gronous" <100617.1214@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Yet another error

David Bothe wrote yesterday how the web page address I put on my design for the
tee shirt is incorrect and when I checked it out I found I have missed out the
all important "..../~majordom/lr/ " from the end. I will edit it at the weekend
to correct it, but the principle remains the same. I had never understood why
advertising people get paid so much for their designs, I am beginning to
understand why. I guess for every success their must be several alterations to
get it right.:-)

Peter Gronous
Surrey, England

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From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 17:27:52 -0400
Subject: Gaiter question

     Finishing up the swivel ball rebuild and just installed the gaiters, the
concept seems good  but, even with the laced seam pointing down allowing for
drainage, IS IT REALLY?
what are we likely to find in there after a year or so ? sand/ grit allowing
more wear? dampness? road salt residue ?
will the gaiters prove to be beneficial or should I take 'em off now?
anybody else have any experience with these ?
Thanks
Rgds
Steve Bradke

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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 17:41:53 -0100
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Subject: Picnic

It's a little late notice, I know. The ROVERS group of southeastern PA will
be meeting for a picnic Saturday near Hockessin, Delaware. The location of
the picnic is near the intersection of Pennsylvania routes 41 and 7. For
those who are cartographically impaired, it is ner I-95 between Philly and
Baltimore.

RSVP to 1 610 268 8008, or fax 1 610 268 2475

Regards,
Ned Heite    _______
P O Box 53   |___|__\__==   Heite Consulting
Camden, DE   | _ |  |  --]  Archaeologists and Historians
19934 USA    =(O)-----(O)=  "Baby," a short wheelbase 1969 Land Rover
           """""""""""""""" is our daily ride to work, and she's great.

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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 16:52:36 -5
Subject: Re: Gaiter question

 Steve Bradke asks:
snip
> will the gaiters prove to be beneficial or should I take 'em off now?
> anybody else have any experience with these ?
-
I find them to be beneficial (there are those who think the opposite 
though) provided they are properly prepared with petroleum jelly.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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From: "Brian Cotton" <Brian.Cotton@lia.infolink.co.za>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 23:57:36 +0000
Subject: Holiday and Models

Greetings again !

I am going on a 2 week holiday to the Richtersveld starting saturday 
17th.
I won't un-subscribe because I wan't to keep track of discussions 
especially my T-Shirt idea. 

I found a 1:32 scale 90" H/Top Steel model Defender in the toy 
section of The Trade Centre. It cost R 30.00  (1USD = R4.50).

If anyone is interested in one (only green and yellow) please let me 
know and I'll try to get some on friday afternoon (13 HRS from now) 
or on saturday morning or hopefully when I return from vacation.

Please mail me direct  bcotton@lia.co.za

Cheers for 2 weeks

Brian -I bought 2 NEW 90's today and paid  CASH - COTTON
(maybe I should get out more often !)

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 18:02:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Any Ideas

Thanks to all who responded to my questions. To those who saw the bit about
White-Bordered-Stop-Signs being optional, that was a *joke* kind of thing I
heard when I first moved to the US. I was also sent to see 68 different
people for the key for the basement to our (one level) factory... Took me
about 30 minutes to adapt to the US sense of humor! Of course I now tell all
recent immigrants the same bit about stop signs. If they are like me and come
from a country in which a posted highway sign is as rare as a rust-free rear
crossmember, they tend to take it seriuosly. 

Again, thanks for the ideas. It is always nice to get y'all's opinions as
well.

pat
93110

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 18:02:15 -0400
Subject: 68 SIIA 109 Service Center?

Hello all,
I'm posting this for a fellow LRO who doesn't have net access...

His 68 109 went into the shop to have a bunch of work done on the engine,
after that was running, they discovered the brakes were very "wooden" or
stiff at the pedal with little stopping power (if only those white borders on
the stop signs did indeed mean "optional"...). So the owner decided to
replace the shoes and wheel cylinders. He ordered them from RN and had the
mechanic put them in.

The brakes are now spongy with little effect on stopping power. They bled
them and cranked out the adjusters, etc., but still nothing. Also of interest
is the fact that the new shoes had a thinner lining than the ones coming
off... so the mechanic put back the old shoes... Apparently the Master
Cylinder holds pressure after 2-3 pumps and doesn't drop at all afterwards.
So that's his brake repair saga.

The guy is beginning to lose his LR enthusiasm since he really hasn't been
able to run it since he got it (a little known fact about series ownership, I
suppose). 

He is looking for a competent LR-savvy mechanic in the South Florida area who
can give him decent service. It seems the guy he went to is proceeding by
trial & error on the SIIA.

Does anyone know of decent series service in the Dade/Broward/Palm Beach
county area? You can e-mail me direct or post to the list. Also, anyone had
experience taking an old series LR to a LRNA dealer? What happened? Did they
break out the garlic and silver bullets or were they accomodating? I'm
curious to know before I send him to one.

Thanks,
pat
93  110

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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 18:43:17 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: What's in a name

Christopher Boese wrote:

>BTW before LR chose the name Discovery...there were articles that said it
>was going to be called "Highlander".

Indeed.  Unfortunately, "Highlander" was already 'owned' by Volvo.  
Supposedly, it was/is the name of a line of trucks.  Makes more sense than 
GM's choice for their all-electric car - the "Impact".  Why not call it 
something really catchy like "flaming-head-on-wreck?"  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *----1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7 ----*

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From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 19:33:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Gearbox and Steering box

To all,

Sorry for the late posting back to this one, but have been having some
computer problems.

I'd like to second the method for lifting in and out the transmission.
 However, I'd also like to add my two cents (3 1/2p for those in the UK).  In
the field, we in the U.S. Army have to replace transmissions and transfer
cases on two and a half and five ton trucks.  When an engine lift or wrecker
is not available, the accepted means is to suspend a "tanker bar" (three to
four foot prybar) from the seatback (much like the seatback bulkhead in an 88
or three door 109 and the folded down windscreen, instead of the doors (more
strength).  You then run your chain fall or "come along" from the tanker bar
to the transmission or transfer.  Yes, we are dropping them out the bottom -
and I haven't tried to do this with my Landy yet, but seems the potential
(along with the patented Dave Bobeck Testostorone Pills supplied by Rovers
North) would allow two or three able bodies to extract the offending cases
out from the top.

For what its worth.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 17:27:10 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: 68 SIIA 109 Service Center?

>The brakes are now spongy with little effect on stopping power. They bled
>them and cranked out the adjusters, etc., but still nothing.... Apparently the
>;Master
>Cylinder holds pressure after 2-3 pumps and doesn't drop at all afterwards.
>So that's his brake repair saga.
:
Assuming that the correct 109 master cylinder is in place, and the brakes
are properly blead, and the rubber hoses in the system are not so bad that
there are expanding like bollons under pressure, the most likely answer is
that the 109's rear brake shoes are on backwards.  The is a leading shoe
and a trailing shoe.  If you get them reversed. it will take a couple of
pumps to get pressure.

Try to adjust the rear brakes.  If the snail cam can not be adjusted out
enough to lock the shoe to the drum the shoes are on backwards.

Been there, done that

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 21:13:06 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Bustin' nuts

Ned Heite wrote:

>The Teenage Mutant Ninja Wart Hogs at the local Goodyear sop are very
>impressed with their air-driven wrenches, which are always om "maximum
>stun.

...Which is why I never let the blighters put the things back on.  I 
*always* specify that *I'll* tighten the lug nuts.  I always figured that 
there was no harm in removing nuts with air tools...until some dim bulb let 
the wrench spin a few thousand times after the nut was loose and it neatly 
chamfered the threads on the Nissan PU....  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *----1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7 ----*

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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 19:30:36 -0600 (MDT)
From: Andrew Howton <ahowton@agt.net>
Subject: Rover weekend on Alberta B.C. border

Is there anyone interested in trying to get some rovers over the great
devide between Alberta and BC some were between Waterton National Park and
Banff National Park?  There were some routes untill the one in a 3000 year
flood last year but it is a little more challenging now.  North Fork and
Race Horse passes look good but I'm open to sugestions.  I am based in
Sparwood (on highway 3 15min from BC Alta boarder) untill the end of Dec.

There is a group of Rovers getting together north of here in Cadomin Alberta
this weekend.  I won't be there but it was a blast last year, It was covered
in last Octs or Novs LRO owner mag.  If you are interested call Malcome at
(604) 976-5531.

Andrew Howton
109 2door

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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 19:30:39 -0600 (MDT)
From: Andrew Howton <ahowton@agt.net>
Subject: Re: 68 SIIA 109 Service Center?

At 06:02 PM 8/15/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Also, anyone had
>experience taking an old series LR to a LRNA dealer? What happened? Did they
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>pat
>93  110
The LRNA dealer in Calgary Alberta (Lone Star) has a every good attitude
when it comes to the older Rovers.  I have seen them work on some and my
father often orders his parts there when he needs something fast,  depending
on the part they are sometimes cheaper than anyone else.  They also hold an
off roading day every spring and they always invite me to bring what ever
Series Rover I'm driving at the time (they don't mind other old rovers
showing up ethier but they are not very happy if they brake down and hold up
the event).  They know that my Rovers are in good mech shape and they like
to show that the make has a history behind it (RR owners always seem to want
to steel my Rover on this day because I put on a good show and ham it up a
little,  I can fix it if it brakes).  One time I blew the spider gears on my
old Ser IIa 88 on a real mean hill,  I managed to cover this up and drove
another 1000km before I had time to fix it(it had lost one tooth off each
spider gear and drove sort of like a locking diff that locked and unlocked
when it felt like it).

Andrew Howton
109 2door
110 2door (building)

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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 21:48:12 -0400
From: Richard Ruffer <rruffer@interserv.com>
Subject: Re: Curious Info on a D90 value

tradica@netzone.com wrote:
> I have a 1994 D90 in (almost) mint condition.  Any suggestions on
> finding the value of it?   Production number 103.

Depending on the miles and extras (hard top, rear seat, winch, etc.), the ads in recent 
Sunday NY Times give prices ranging from $29,000 to $34,000.  When I was last in LA, 
there seemed to be a similar price range in the LA Times.

Rich Ruffer
Morristown, NJ
rruffer@interserv.com
'94 D90 #634

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From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 15 Aug 96 22:28:52 EDT
Subject: A real find for antirust coatings! (In the US...)

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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 20:46:12 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Re: 68 SIIA 109 Service Center?

You wrote: 

snip
>His 68 109 
snip
>The brakes are now spongy (snip)
>Thanks,
>pat
>93  110

Partly my ignorance but is the CB or CV master?

cheers,

Jeremy

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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 20:47:46 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: Re: Gearbox and Steering box

Lodelane@aol.com wrote:

> I'd like to second the method for lifting in and out the transmission.
>... When an engine lift or wrecker
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> to the transmission or transfer.  Yes, we are dropping them out the bottom -
> and I haven't tried to do this with my Landy yet...

Problem is getting enough height between the bar and the trans to 
actually be able to lift rather than drop it out the bottom. A piece of 
(strong) rope tied securely over the hardtop holding a bar or some such 
up tight to the roof is the solution. With the support running crossways 
the lifting tackle can be slid sideways to manouver the works out the 
door. Simple one man stuff really. If you're looking for a real challenge 
try changing the tranny the Terriann way - by yourself with nothing but a 
 screwdriver and a crescent wrench :-0

Cheers, Greg (having some trouble removing imbedded screwdrivers and 
wrenches from the back of my head ;-)

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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 20:23:45 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: Re: Gaiter question

ASFCO@aol.com wrote:

>      Finishing up the swivel ball rebuild and just installed the gaiters, the
> concept seems good  but, even with the laced seam pointing down allowing for
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> will the gaiters prove to be beneficial or should I take 'em off now?
> anybody else have any experience with these ?

The swivel balls on my first LR had been rechromed shortly before I 
purchased the beast. I installed the gaitors and 2 weeks ago (ten years 
after purchasing that first LR - wow time flys when your head's in a can 
of 90wt!) I pulled the axle out from under that truck (lorry, wagon, oh 
no not again!) to put it under my current driver a '70 SWB. I took the 
gaitors off and had a look at the swivel balls and the first thing I 
noticed was - gosh do I need a shave! Seriously though the balls were in 
perfect condition, shiny chrome with no rust. That axle spent 6 years or 
so slogging around on the salted roads that are such a big part of winter 
in southern Ontario. I wouldn't be without gaitors. As far as cracking 
goes I recommend spending ten minutes rubbing vaseline into the new 
leather before installing them. After ten years the gaiters I just looked 
at are as supple as they were on day one with not a sign of wear or 
cracking. Definately a must have in my book.

Cheers, Greg

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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 21:03:56 -0700
From: faurecm@halcyon.com (C. Marin Faure)
Subject: Re: Transmission Trouble

>From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>

>One month ago I downshifted coming up a hill into third.  It went into gear
>smoothly but the gearshift began rattling.  I stopped at the top of the hill
>and found that it had an incredible amount of play when it was in gear and
>neutral and it rattled around the gearbox.  It seems to drive all right but
>often it will not go into third.  Can anyone give some advice?

You don't state what kind of Land Rover you have, but I had a similar
problem in 1977, four years after I had purchased my new 1973 Series III.
In my case, I shifted the vehicle into neutral, but while the gearshift
went there the transmission didn't.  After a great deal of frantic yanking
around of the very loose gearshift I was able to get the vehicle out of
gear.  When I got home I exposed the shifting mechanism on top of the
transmission and found the problem.

The bottom of the shift lever on my 1973 Series III had a rubber ball
molded onto it.  I don't know how it was fastened to the small metal knob
on the bottom of the shift lever; possibly the shift lever was dipped into
molten rubber or rubber was poured into a mold.  In any event, the rubber
ball had worn out, split, and come off the shift lever, leaving just the
small metal knob.  It was so small, in fact, that the lever could slip out
of the gate into neutral but not move the shift forks enough to disengage
the gears.  Of course, once the lever was in neutral but the transmission
was still in gear it took a lot of rattling and prying to get the lever to
slip back through the gate and into the shift fork slot.

I called my parts specialist in northern California and he sent up an
older-style shift lever which has a larger metal knob on the end with a
rubber O-ring fitted to dampen the vibration and noise.  He told me that
Land Rover had gone to the large rubber ball to further eliminate vibration
and noise.  The problem was it was a non-repairable item.  When the rubber
ball broke off, the shift lever would have the problem I had just
experienced.  While I was waiting for the new lever to arrive I shifted
very carefully following the "H" pattern exactly rather than "cutting the
corner" from second to third.  I had no problems other than a very loose
lever and the potential of getting stuck in a gear.

Although the O-ring on my "new" shift lever broke down and disappeared very
quickly, the metal ball on the end of the lever is plenty large enough, and
I have had no shifting problems at all in the last nineteen years.  I keep
the slots well greased to minimze wear on the metal ball.

The fact that you can't engage a gear suggests you may have the rubber ball
type of shift lever and the ball has given up the ghost.  If you have the
O-ring lever and the O-ring is gone, the lever may rattle a bit but it
shouldn't give you any shifting problems.

Or you may have another problem altogether.

Marin
  73 LR Series III 88
  91 RR Vogue SE

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Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 01:18:57 -0500 (EST)
From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com>
Subject: Lug Wrench

Our Range Rover came with out a wrench and we got one from RN.  Less
expensive then the original or a good socket and bar.  The wrench is made
out of 3/4 inch round stock and will out last the RR.

Just finished using it again.

Jeff Kessler
1988 Range Rover
Newport NH USA   603-863-7883

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Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 01:19:06 -0500 (EST)
From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com>
Subject: Commercial plug

I just finished replacing a broke coil spring on our RR.

The old springs were replaced last December with ones from Atlantic British.

When I called AB last Monday to tell them one broke and to ask what the
warrenty is they told me 90 days.  Then they said they would cover it as
warrenty any way and sent a replacement at no charge.

When I asked to order a securing ring (for the shock tower) since last time
these were corroded, they would not take credit card info and threw it in
with the spring.

I just wanted to share this example of the good service we get from all our
parts and service suppliers.

Just in case you wonder I buy from RN, DAP, BP (just got my first order)
alonfg with AB.  It just depends on the phase of the moon (or price) which
one I go with.

Jeff Kessler
1988 Range Rover
Newport NH USA   603-863-7883

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Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 10:12:54 +0000
From: Reto Rolli </I=RER/G=Reto/S=Rolli/OU=INT$/SF$/AGEA/@SF.admin.ch>
Subject: Land Rover Music

Hi there

How about AC-DC' s "Cover You  in Oil" ?  :-)

Reto

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From: edking@mailserv.maxinet.com (Ed)
Subject: Re: music
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 00:26:08 -0700

Hi, 
        This is a first time posting. (just-FINALLY!!!-got a computer)
I prefer bagpipes for city driving.  Played loud, it really scares the hell
out of pedestrian. :-)
                         Ed@chico/ca ***

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: What's in a name
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 96 8:43:05 BST

> Christopher Boese wrote:
> >BTW before LR chose the name Discovery...there were articles that said it
> >was going to be called "Highlander".
> Indeed.  Unfortunately, "Highlander" was already 'owned' by Volvo.  

There is a company that does SIIIs up, that advertises in the mags. One
of their standard upgrades is called the "Highlander". IIRC a sort of super
County, but a 70s SIII at the heart of it. Look nice, and done up in red
with County-style "Highlander" graphics.
Guess Volvo haven't noticed yet.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII FFR 109)

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: music
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 96 8:52:30 BST

> Hi, 
>         This is a first time posting. (just-FINALLY!!!-got a computer)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> out of pedestrian. :-)
>                          Ed@chico/ca ***

Now there's any idea. Anyone know what Gurkha Battle music sounds like?
:-)

I do have the Irish Guards and Coldstream Guards (the latter aren't *too* far
from Scotland) as previous owners too, though...

Richard  (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) 

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From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: Re: Bonnet spare carrier
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 09:52:30 +-200

Clinton wrote:

>Can the bonnet spare carrier be 
>installed on one of the rounded
>edge bonnets without the flat
>dished out area in the centre?

4 blocks of rubber, about 1/2 inch high can support the 
wheel.

Happy Rovering
Bent Boehlers

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From: Stuart Conner <s.conner@dmv.co.uk>
Subject: Problems with CSO Digest and UK LRO Digest
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 09:25:00 +0100

I'm having problems subscribing to the CSO Digest and UK LRO Digest.
Unfortunately, my e-mail account to *receive* mail has a slightly
different address to where an e-mail says the message came from (i.e. it
says the message came from 'conners@...' but I can only receive messages
addressed to 's.conner@...'). IT should be sorting it out ...

I subscribed to the LRO Digest by specifying my receive name
('s.conner@...') after the 'subscribe' message, but this doesn't seem to
work with the CSO and UK LRO digests ? Has anyone any idea why ?

Thanks in anticipation,

Stuart Conner.

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From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 09:34:01 +0000
Subject: Summer trip, a report

            We're All Going On A Summer Holiday

Having read all about various trans-continental trips, my wife and I agreed
to spend our summer holiday camping in Europe.

We made a basic plan: Three weeks to travel down through Luxembourg,
clockwise around the Alps and home. With this plan in mind, we booked a
ferry (Hull to Rotterdam) and got the documentation sorted out: green-card
(12 quid for 4 weeks), medical cover and AA cover.

Firstly, I had to check Lucas (Series III 109 hardtop) was ready. The
gearbox had a bad oil leak and he could do with an overdrive. He was also
sluggish going up hills, but at his age, I decided that was just old age
setting in.

The gearbox leak was between the bellhousing and the selectors, so out came
the gearbox.  Whilst the `box was out, I decided to re-bush the gears and
replace the oilseals as well. 

I put the word out that I was looking for an overdrive and a couple of
places said that they would keep an eye out for me. I did manage to get
one, but it didn't turn up until about a week before we was due to leave!

I also padded out my spares kit (all the minor bulbs, a hose set and a
complete ignition system) and checked my toolkits in preparation for
packing.  I got some flooring panels and cut them down so that they could
be laid out to make a bed in the back of the Land Rover. We borrowed a
tent, and sorted out a comprehensive list of things to take with us.  After
packing everything, including a kitchen sink and arranging someone to look
after the cat, we set off.

On the Saturday, we drove from Edinburgh down to Hull and joined the massed
throng boarding the ferry.  As we drove onto the ferry, we saw a Belgium
(?) yellow 101 hard-top waiting to board the Zebrugger ferry.

The ferry was pretty plush: three bars, duty-free shopping, cinema and two
huge meals. Dinner and breakfast were self-service affairs with a good
variety of food, and plenty of it as well.  The only downsides were (a)
bunkbeds and (b) an 8am disembarkation.

Whilst we were on the ferry, we changed out plan - and decided to head to
Berlin before travelling south.

We drove steadily west, sticking to the main trunkroads.  We avoided the
motorways so that we would see more of the countryside, but also stayed off
the minor roads as we knew we had a fair distance to travel each day. We
had been told that there were plenty of campsites around Europe, but we
were advised to "check in" by 4pm. By Tuesday lunchtime, we had arrived at
the campsite in a place called Caputh, which is a few miles South-West of
Berlin.

We spent the Tuesday afternoon ambling around Potsdam and the Wednesday
looking around Berlin, site-seeing and just being tourists. The major
European cities have local transport sussed: for 20 Marks we got a 24hr
pass for all busses, trams and metro-trains - for two people. The extent of
the pass allowed us to get to and from the campsite as well as around
Berlin.

Thursday saw us on the road again. A two-day jaunt down to Rosenheim (near
Munich) to meet a fellow LRO-list member, Franz Parzefall, and a look
around Munich (or Muenchen). Here we got our first sight of the Alps. The
Alps start very suddenly, and are massive. Being so close to the Alps, the
weather was a variable as Scotland: glorious sunshine changed to
thunderstorms in less that an hour! 

On the Sunday, we headed off to look at a couple of the castles built for
Ludwig II of Bavaria. Linderhof was built second and was where Ludwig spent
the last eight years of his life. The main building is the last word in
opulence with gilt on everything and every room a statement about the
importance of its builder.  To get to Neuschwanstein (the fairy-tale
castle), it was quicker to pop through Austria.

Neuschwanstein is just up the hillside from the castle in which Ludwig was
brought up, and was the first castle he started. Due to the sheer scale of
the place, it was never finished and only 15 of the 78 rooms were ever
completed.  Like Linderhof, Neuschwanstein was opened to the public tours
almost as soon as Ludwig died.  After a morning tour of the castle we
headed south.

We had spend a couple of nights in rain, so we decided to spend the next
night sleeping in the Land Rover, a bad mistake! With the cold, alpine, air
outside and two warm bodies on the inside, the aluminium was soon dripping
with condensation. I spent an interrupted night, wiping the condensation
from the roof every couple of hours - oh well, it works well in some
climates...

Heading south through Austria, Liechtenstein and Switzerland, we for the
Italian Riviera.  The high point (figuratively as well as literally)of this
leg was crossing the Spluegan Pass.  At 2133 metres (1.5 miles) high, the
route was twisty with absolutely stunning views!  The drop down had no less
than 28 hairpin bends, with a set of ten in very close proximity.  Some of
the bends were less than 30 feet in diameter, requiring a shunt.  With no
side-windows in the back, my wife had to stick her head out the window and
check if the road was clear for me.

By Wednesday, we had ensconced ourselves in a campsite a few miles inland
from the coast.  Due to the horrendous weather that the area had suffered
from in the past couple of months, the swimming pool was being repaired. 
The people who ran the site more than made up for this minor problem, they
were so friendly and helpful.  We spend the rest of the week lazing in the
sun and doing some necessary housekeeping.  I took the time to have a good
look over Lucas and nothing had suffered during the trip.  I did replace
the gaskets on one of the free wheeling hubs, but this was a problem that I
was aware of before we left Edinburgh and had avoided doing anything about.
 Whilst we were at the campsite, we met a British couple who had retired to
a caravan on the campsite. When I asked about the winters, Brian said "the
coldest it got last winter was 13 C".

On the Monday of week three, we set off  on the homeward leg of our
journey.  By Thursday lunchtime we had popped through Monte Carlo, driven
up the Rue Napoleon, through Luxembourg and Belgium and arrived at the
Gaasperplatz campsite in Amsterdam.

After wandering around Amsterdam for a couple of days, I have three
over-riding impressions: fantastic architecture, funny cigarettes and the
most bizarre red-light district.

Saturday saw us heading back to Rotterdam to get the ferry and then Sunday
we got home. The only trafiic jam we ecountered was on the last leg of our
journey, as went went along the York Bypass. Every lay-by had cars in it
with their bonnets up and steam issuing gently from the escape valves. 
Good thing I topped up my spare water.... (No, I had no problems, it was
all these fancy modern cars that couldn't cope)

Fifteen hours later, I was back at work..

The total trip was 3,500 miles, on roads ranging from 4-lane motorways (in
Holland) to little more than footpaths (minor roads in eastern Germany). 
The holiday was great fun, and cost us less than a fortnight fly-drive with
self-catering in Tuscany.

Here are some tips and hints for things to take with you if you want to do
the same sort of thing:

o Plastic (Visa/Access/American Express/...) but test it before you go.  If
you magnetic strip goes, you will have great difficulty using it. :(
o Cirrus on your Autoteller card. This allows you to take out cash from
most Autotellers in Europe. There is a charge of 10% (or stlg1.50, whichever
is greater) 
o Eurocheques & Eurocheque card. A cross between travellers cheques and
normal cheques. They aren't as widely excepted as travellers cheques, but
they don't take money out of your account until they are cashed. Ours were
most usefull in France. 
o AA (or RAC) cover around Europe. This will get you home if something
breaks. It also saves you having to pack half-shafts, diffs, and all the
other mechanical stuff. 
o Camping and cooking kit (see below) 
o Washing line and pegs 
o Oil, water, etc. for topping up the various fluid levels 
o Full tool set, with axle stands, etc. If you need to do some work on the
car, there is no point in being able to buy the part if you can't fit it. 
o A parts manual which will allow you to go to a garage or parts-house and
point at the item(s) you need without having to mangle the pronunciation. 
o A cool-box will keep stuff cool for a few days. As the lid is on the
top, the cold air will tend to stay in the coolbox and each new cold item
you put in will help keep the temperature down. Some campsites will, for a
small fee, refreeze the cool-box blocks.

My camping list
o Tent
o Air bed
o Pump for air bed
o Duvet, sheets & pillows, plus a second set of sheets
o Camping stove & matches
o Spare cylinder for stove. You will, of course, not be able to find the
correct replacement cylinder when you need it. 
o Pots and pans 
o 2 mess-tins from an Army-Navy store 
o Mugs 
o Knife, fork & spoon each, plus two extra knives 
o Bread-knife, large  & small chopping knife 
o Tin opener & peeler 
o Plastic washing-up bowl, washing up liquid, gloves, cloths and tea
towels 
o Salt, pepper and a couple of jars of spices 
o Large bottle of drinking water (some European tap water cannot be drunk
without dire consequences - I know) 
o Tea bags & coffee 
o A torch for inside the tent or working on the car

Our costs worked out at roughly:
o 500 quid on the ferriy fees plus vehicle and personal insurance
o 200 quid in overseas currency taken with us
o 600 quid for fuel (4-star / verblit / super / leaded / ...)
o 700 quid on living
The campsites we visited varied in price from (the equivelent of) 6 to 30
pounds per night (2 people, 1 car, 1 tent), depending on the level and
range of facilities.

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

Quote of 1996: "A.L.S. is a good example of scottishissityness"

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From: Stuart Conner <s.conner@dmv.co.uk>
Subject: Knocking Engine ?
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 09:28:00 +0100

Has anyone any thoughts on the following 'problem' with my Land Rover
110. It is a 2.5 litre petrol, and has just passed the 93,000 mile mark.

For about 5 minutes after starting, until the engine warms up, the
engine sounds as if it is knocking (pinking). The noise is more apparent
under load, and goes away (or becomes inaudible) above 'medium' revs.

I would imagine the distributor is pretty worn at this mileage. I find
that to get decent performance I need to set the timing to around 16
degrees (if memory serves correct) whereas the handbooks state it should
be 13 degrees. Once the engine has warmed up, there is no sound of
pinking (knocking) under any engine conditions, so I think the timing
must be about right. I've tried retarding the timing but the noise still
persists ?

Is this noise pinking, or could it be:

 -  tappets need adjusting ?
 -  timing chain rattle ? (could the timing chain be worn past the limit
of the tensioner ?)
 -  worn bearings ?
 -  something entirely different ?

Has anyone an easy diagnosis ?

As the timing chain wears and stretches, will the timing tend to drift
(i.e. 'TDC' at the camshaft becomes later compared with TDC at the
crankshaft) ? Could this be why I'm having to set the timing 3 degrees
out ?

Thanks in anticipation.

Stuart Conner
Southampton, UK.

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From: Stuart Conner <s.conner@dmv.co.uk>
Subject: Installing a Sunroof
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 09:28:00 +0100

I'm thinking about having a sunroof fitted to my 110 hardtop. Can anyone
recommend a supplier/installer in the Hampshire (UK) area ?

The centre strengthener on the roof will obviously have to be cut back
in order to fit the sunroof. Presumably the 'flattened end' will have to
be refitted further back behind the sunroof ?

Thanks in anticipation,

Stuart Conner.

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Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 04:20:41 -0500 (CDT)
From: Mark Perry <rxq281@freenet.mb.ca>
Subject: music to rove by

Are people talking about music *in* their Land Rovers?! Loogsury!!
It'll be cupholders next. The Land Rover *is* the music.

There was a thread about whether LRs were cars, trucks or vee-hickles 
recently: Doesn't some LR history somewhere note that Rover management 
types have always referred to them as cars (embarrassed that an 
agricultural appliance was their bread-and-butter, not those respectable, 
dignified saloon cars they made.) And I also believe that the BBC, 
scrupulous to a fault in avoiding use of proprietary names in its 
broadcast copy, coined the term "field car" to refer to LRs.
Mine's licensed and insured as a pickup truck, though: lack of back seats 
saves me about C$150 a year.

As for music to *describe* a LR: Well, John Adams "Short Ride in a Fast 
Machine" wouldn't do it, but his "Fearsome Symmetries" sure would.

Cheers, 

Mark Perry   Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
1966 Ser.IIA 88 Petrol Hardtop: Daily driver
"It's noisier on the inside"

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