Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

From: colleran@headwaters.com
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 10:39:12 +0400
Subject: Help support a growing addiction!

At the risk of attracting a firestorm of censure and ill-will, I wonder if
I might ask whether anyone on the list is interested, or knows anyone who
would be interested, in buying my restored 1950 Vincent Comet motorcycle. I
have caught a whiff or two of motorcyclist interest in some past postings
here.
The Vincent is a product of the same off-beat late-forties Brit school of
design/engineering that produced the Landie. Series C Vincents, like this
one,  and LR's both debuted in 1948, I believe. I have heard it said that
the extensive use of alumin(i)um in both had to do with the fact that steel
was in short supply and allocated to 'critical' industries, whereas new
ventures had to content themselves with the alloy that was no longer needed
for wartime aircraft production and therefore available in relatively
plentiful, and non-rationed quantities. Sometimes bureaucracy does us
unintentional favours, it seems.
I've owned this bike since 1971, but find my age and condition of life (two
small kids who both want to go riding with daddy at the same time) are now
leading more toward four wheels rather than two. So I'm selling off my
bikes to fund a new, and it seems instiable, hunger I've developed for
Series Land Rovers. I've now got a '69 'bug-eye' SWB IIA, a rather sorry
'70 SWB IIA due for a frame-over, and two Series II LWB station wagons of
late 50's vintage and another SWB are on the way, pending an infusion of
funds from this sale. As you can well imagine, any extra cash I can lay my
hands these days is not likely to end up languishing in any savings
account.
Apologies for any irritation caused by such a 'commercial' and
only-partly-Rover-related posting. If interested, contact me by direct
e-mail for more info, so as not to impose too much upon the Major's good
graces and bandwidth.

------------------------------

From: Gregspitz@aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 10:53:53 -0400
Subject: Shimmy and Rock in MY DFNDR

95 Defender 90 (IL License MY DFNDR)
I am not much of a mechanic so please help me out.  Went mudding and hit some
hard mud but no stones 2 days ago and found one of my tire balance weights in
the piece of mud..It belonged to the front driver side tire and spent the $12
(cheap?) to have the tire rebalanced.  The shimmy and rock in the front now
starts at 55-60 miles an hour and I suspect it is wheel alignment.  I see no
visible damage on the vehicle.
Any Ideas.??

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 11:25:09 -0400
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Re: Shimmy and Rock in MY DFNDR

Gregspitz@AOL.COM wrote:

>   Went mudding and hit some hard mud but no stones 2 days ago and found one of my tire 
> balance weights in the piece of mud..
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> visible damage on the vehicle.
> Any Ideas.??

I also suspect alignment but the other possibility is a bent rim.  
When you got your tire rebalanced, they should have picked up on 
a bent rim but with some of the morons they have working in tire 
places...
-- 
Nate Dunsmore
Rocking Horse Farm
Boring, MD 21020
dunsmo19@us.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 12:43:44 -0400
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@InterLinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Ford door seals, was Re: Better seating!!???

At 16:01 96-08-09 -0500, Dave from soon to be "South of Bob"wrote:

>I also found some Ford door rubber that fits better than factory 
>original.  I am lucky to have a friend who is a Ford mechanic and he gave 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>along the bottom of the stationwagon door and will keep all the dust and 
>water out.  It really seals tight.  Dave VE4PN
        On what Ford model does that famous seal strip go? Waterville T.G.
is one of the world's biggest manufacturer's of car weatherstripping and it
is located at about 15 miles from my place. Maybe I could be lucky and grab
some at the plant (My neighbor works there, too). If not, well having the
model that fits it would be a great help at the scrap yard. 

Thanks, 

Michel
Michel Bertrand
						______
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca <<---- Note new address!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 20:45:31 +0200
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: 107" S/W

Mark Perry <rxq281@freenet.mb.ca> wrote:
:Back to LRs: A Ser 1 107 SW, claimed to be in "all original, drives 
:excellent" condition has appeared for sale in the western reaches of this 
:province. I am under the impression the "meccano set" wagon is one of the 
:rarer models (56-58 production only), and am wondering how this one (it 
:looks not bad in the photo 
:ad) rates a a "collectors item" (that ownership experience thing again) 
:and what sort of $$ a driveable 107 might be expected to fetch (no asking 
:price in ad) Or is a 107 a bad bet (sorry Peter in Vienna) in general?
:The ugly-duckling charm is undeniable.

So far, I am very happy with mine, but then I was luckier than I deserved 
since the Green Monster is so very original, and some miracles happened and 
I got some of the parts I would not have thought possible to get. The 
drawbacks so far:

- A lot of parts are not interchangeable with other SI's, and you need to be
  lucky to find them
- The car is not too good offroad, even for a LWB, as it is rather heavy and 
  has long overhang in the rear, also needs lots of space to turn.

I would be very careful about the chassis, that was very different from 
others and AFAIK there are no replacements for it. Engine and gearbox are no 
problem to replace, rear halfshafts might be if they are fully floating. The 
rear axle can not be exchanged without major re-engineering, since the 
springs are in a different location. The brakes are all standard SI and 
readily available. Interior? Depends on what you want, can be very awkward 
to restore.

Judging from the prices I see every now and then, the S/W does not have much 
extra value as a collectors item. I paid about 3,000 USD for mine, which is 
considered fairly cheap here, maybe a little high in the UK. In the US, you 
would probably expect to pay more, from what I have seen so far.

I would certainly do it again, but then I was lucky. Hope you are lucky, too

Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 20:45:35 +0200
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Restoration

Dear all, since the weather is good for a change not much will happen on the 
restoration front this weekend. Here's what happened during the week:

I brought a few small items home to fiddle with. First I tried to get the 
courtesy light of my S/W back in shape. This is a frosted oblong glass cover 
with a chrome ring around it, and the usual entrails. Well, the glass was 
pretty dirty and discoloured, and the chrome had partial red and green coats 
of paint as well as heavy yellowish corrosion. One evening I washed the 
glass and polished the chrome ring without too much conviction, but with 
some German chrome polish. After about half an hour it looked almost like 
new, with very little pitting and all the paint was gone. I was so happy I 
started polishing the screw also, and soon I was rewarded with a pretty 
chrome head instead of a rusty something. That was very satisfactory.

Tonight I decided to try Corrodip, a liquid made in Australia that is 
supposed to dissolve rust and leave a shiny surface that is protected from 
rust for a while after the treatment. I put the turning knobs that hold the 
perspex sliding windows in place in the liquid, they were pretty rusty. 
After four hours I checked and nothing had changed. I took a knob out and 
wiped it off, and the rust disappeared and attractive blank metal showed up. 
Anyway, after eight hours I can report that all traces of rust have 
disappeared, the sheradized bolts were not adversely affected, the green 
paint on some of them has mostly come off and that I will tackle the next 
batch ASAP. Sorry to say it is not suitable for aluminium, so composite 
parts like my roof ventilators will have to be treated differently (I wonder 
how?). I got my Corrodip from Oakwood Resources in the UK, and it is made by 
Liquid Engineering in Bedford, Western Australia. Needless to say I have no 
link to any of these companies.

Also got the new James Taylor book on S I's yesterday, looks very nice and 
gives a lot of hints on restorations. However, the 107" he took as an 
example was restored in the wrong way in some respects, he should have used 
the more original Dunsfold 107. When I am a little further along in the 
process I will write him with some suggestions.
Hope you have a nice weekend
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 13:49:19 -0700
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: Suspension Woes

At 10:20 AM 8/8/96 -0400, you wrote:
[8<]
>I would not recommend you try to replace them yourself if you are a 
>novice, as it can be a troublesome and dangerous chore. Be sure to 
>replace the rubber bushings and shackle bolts at the same time. The new 
>polyurethane type of bushings are well worth the extra money.
>You will also need new U-bolts.

        I have some friends that have done this to their FJ40s, and have
volunteered to help me with this chore, so I won't be alone.  (As an aside,
they are all seriously shopping for LRs, since seeing mine!!).  

        Regarding the bushings, shackles and U-bolts:  They ALL appear to be
fairly new.  What I mean is that there are two types of metal under my IIA:
the smooth, black kind and the rough, brown/orange kind.  All the mountings
for the springs are the smooth black kind.  I'm pretty sure this LR has had
a frame-over for the following reasons:
        The frame looks almost new.
        The original owner was in Madison, WI (which makes the above highly 
                improbably in the absence of a frame-over.
        The front body peices are a bit crooked, and there is now obvious 
                bend in the frame.
         Much of the (non-frame) parts on the underside appear to be new.

        Now, this seems odd.  Why replace all the suspension hardware BUT
the springs?  I don't get it.  I think I'll have my mechanic look at it and
see if he thinks they are new, too.

Chris
'65 IIA
'96 Disco

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 13:49:21 -0700
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: re:Suspension Woes

        New frame?  Fwhat?  I'm pretty sure is is fairly new!  Is the only
way to do the coil-sprung thing to get a new frame?

C

At 12:14 AM 8/9/96 -0500, you wrote:
>On 07 Aug 1996 Christopher H. Dow writes about suspension woes.

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
>1988 Range Rover
>Newport NH USA   603-863-7883

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 13:49:16 -0700
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: Apology

        I should hope we don't have that rule!  I purchased my IIA through
an ad on this list (Hi Ted!), and I'm quite plesed with it.  I agree with a
previous respondent--WTH else would I go to look for a used Land Rover?!?!

C

At 01:04 PM 8/9/96 -0500, you wrote:
>In response to my apology for posting a used RR ad, Doug Boehme wrote:
>> That rule is crap! If a person has a vehicle for sale, they should post
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 25 lines)]
>Cheers,
>jc

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 17:20:47 -0400
Subject: Marine Blue, Blue: Is it the same?

Our '60 SII PU was originally blue. Comparing some of the remaining original
paint to "Marine Blue" spray touchup paint from RN, the original is somewhat
more green. Looking in a '64 parts book I see both "blue" and "marine blue"
paint listed. I also remember hearing that there were two versions of "marine
blue" although the same part numbers appear in a '68 parts book.

Any ideas? Since our LR is a North America export model, could it be "blue"
instead of "marine blue"? Or was marine blue changed? If so what are the
paint codes? Do the Heritage certificates include original color?

David Cockey
Rochester, Michigan

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 21:02:01 +0100
From: Mike Cattell <mike@mikecat.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Grey cylinder

Just a quick question for all you clever people on the list.

I have a series 3 , 1975 2.25 diesil which looks unmodified under the
bonnet. I does not appear to have servo brakes i.e. no resevoir by the
screen washer bottle or pump mechanism on the master cylinder.
What it does have is a grey cylinder a little larger than a baked bean tin
with a large nut on the top ( out of which dribbles a bit of oil.) It is mounted
on top of the clutch master cylinder but does not appear to be connected
to the clutch. there are two pipes out one goes to the tee which the oil
pressure gauges are attached too by the oil filter the other goes to the
crank case.

There is no mention of this in either the repair ops manual or in haynes. Is
it the work of a PO and what is it?

many thanks
 
Mike Cattell, Christleton, Cheshire, U.K.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 15:16:39 -0700
From: cascardo@ix.netcom.com (Lucas Andres Cascardo)
Subject: paint question

Hello,

Where can I find the grey paint used on the inside of my rover '95 D90 
Wagon?  RN and LRNA did not have an answer.  The roll bar has no more 
paint on it due to wear and tear and I'd like to protect it again.

Lucas C. 

------------------------------

From: Robot10@aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 20:20:56 -0400
Subject: Rover questions

I've just placed a deposit on my first rover. I have a few questions for the
general membership; I apologize in advance for the bandwidth.

The rover in question is a (series II?) 109 standard (two door) w/galvanized
wheels and fairey od. It has been converted to 6 cyl using a (Chevy?) six
using a scotty's adapter. Anyone who can answer the following questions,
please respond directly to Robot10@aol.com

1: the VIN number is 27903809C. Where can I look up info about this, or can
anyone send it to me?

2: The conversion is working, but I believe I will try to do an Iron Duke at
framover (next year). What's needed to do this? does the Scotty's adapter fit
the Duke? Am I better to try to find a 2.25 petrol?

3 The vehicle was originally diesel, and has a diesel tank. The petrol tank
has been mounted on a board behind the seats. Can I use the original diesel
tank to hold petrol? what else must I do?

4:What's the best manual to buy? I want wiring, plumbing, teardown and
rebuild procedures, etc. I have been happy with haynes in the past, but never
owned a foreign vehicle. Do they compare?

5: I am going to have the swivel balls hard chrome/teflon plated by someone I
know. I believe this teflon will prevent corrosion and make the balls a less
vulnerable item. Has anyone ever tried this? would anyone be interested if I
found that it worked?I suspect this would cost about 250.00 each ball. 

------------------------------

From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com>
Subject: RE: buying from commercial dealers
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 22:45:40 -0400
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Fred's point about quality work vs. volume is well-taken and not without =
some validity.

For those with expertise and enough time, there is NO substitute for =
doing it yourself. Logical. You're not paying yourself - your not =
working against the clock, you're not worried about the next piece-work =
(this is virtually how ALL shops operate). Please believe that most LR =
technicians and 3rd party vendors have sincere, qualified techs who =
would love to be able to triple-check (IMO) all work...

However, the realities (as Fred points out) of volume and scheduling =
usually prohibit this. This is where and why WARRANTY exists. Both with =
new vehicles and on work performed after new car warranty expires. This =
protects the owner from work that may not have made it to the last cut!!

I have dealt with RN for almost twenty years (no, I don't work for =
them!) and have never met a more dedicated group of enthusiasts who =
possess the expertise necessary to perform the work that they advertise. =
If they put out any work not right - I have NEVER known them NOT to make =
it right!

The law of averages iffefutably states that you WILL NOT satisfy 100% of =
the customers (both internal and external) 100% of the time. My store =
(LRMW) is, unfortunately no exception to this rule. We'll get attaboy =
surveys and awsh*t survey returns over the fax simultaneously. I've =
found however, that, once a foulup is done - the clock can't be turned =
back. Ultimate satisfaction will be how a company resolves a problem - =
this encompasses goodwill, effective remedy, and a demonstrable intent =
to learn from mistakes.

Most LRO's today ARE NOT expert enough to perform even rudimentary =
service on a modern Land Rover. Even armed with the knowledge, the cost =
of owning the diagnostic tools would be prohibitive (the diagnostic =
computer alone for LR's today is over $20K!!). And this trend is going =
to continue. LR dealer techs attend several training/refresher seminars =
annually just to keep up to date. Diagnosic updates are received monthly =
via CD-ROM...

And most of the shops I deal with want nothing more than to please =
EVERYONE! A noble and simple goal. Sometimes difficult to implement with =
100% success. If an appointment runs 1 week (volume), and a new owner =
comes in with a MIL (check engine light) occurrence - what do you do? =
Tell them to come back in a week? Nope. Scheduled work usually gets held =
up while the "hot potato" is rushed into the shop... So, scheduled work =
is sometimes not ready when promised - this annoys service customers =
more than anything short of the fault not being fixed on the first try. =
When does this happen? When a fault cannot be duplicated in a =
"practical" amount of time while attempting to duplicate the =
failure/fault. Yes, electrical is the biggest culprit here. So, at some =
point, fault diagnosis must terminate and a judgement rendered to =
maintain a high enough shop throughput to stay in business!!!!

So sometimes, cars aren't fixed right the first time. And the shop =
"takes it on the chin" in the form of negative word-of-mouth, ruinous =
surveys, etc. Many are constructive and offer positive feedback which is =
VERY MUCH read and taken under consideration. Some is just plain =
vindictive and viscious - helping neither party...

Nobody in the business wants anything LESS than 100% customer =
satisfaction. How could they not?

Don't forget - buying from a dealer will ALWAYS offer some warranty - =
this is a law in most states - there are NO "AS-IS" retail sales. And =
some states even have laws protecting buyers from PO's. When you buy a =
used retail from a dealership (doesn't matter what brand) - especially a =
vehicle out of factory warranty, the profit margin on the vehicle is =
partly determined by historical and repeatable warranty expenses borne =
100% by the dealer within the specified period. Virtually EVERY used =
Range Rover we deliver comes back with a laundry list just prior to it =
going out of the minium required state warranty. Even though the cars =
are delivered, as best as is practicable, "fault free." A state warranty =
is 100% parts and labor.

For those with the wherewithall to do their own maintenance and service, =
of course the work will be perfect - and they can only scold themselves =
if it isn't. The dealer networks still offer overall quality of service =
in reasonable time for the vast majority of owners who don't have the =
time to do the work themselves.

Of course there will be and does exist counterpoint. And I'm sure I'll =
hear it on the list. But, dealers are not evil people! A dealer is a =
collection of basically average people who for the most part are gear =
heads! Speaking for my shop, with a couple of exceptions, our techs try =
and work on your car as if it was their own. And several of our =
personnel (besides myself) own Land Rovers.

cheers
Jim

----------
From: 	Fred Ellsworth[SMTP:fellswor@camb-lads.loral.com]
Sent: 	Wednesday, August 07, 1996 12:09 PM
Subject: 	re: buying from commercial dealers

Someone mentioned the other day that they wanted to buy a LR from a =
company
rather than an individual in order to guarantee the quality of the =
vehicle.
Personally, I'd prefer to buy from an individual who cared about the
vehicle.

When I bought my rover (a '71 IIA 88") the PO had just had $12,000+ =
worth
of parts/labor done at Rover's North (and no, I didn't pay **anything
near** half that).  I have run across so much lame craftsmanship I can't
believe it, especially considering RNs reputaion for quality.  The =
latest
was yesterday when I went to put in a new head gasket.  I popped off the
head only to discover they had used a faulty head gasket in assembling =
the
engine.  It had no holes for three of the coolant passages!!  The fourth
coolant passage was blocked by a large chunk of Blue Goo!!  Ignoring the
idiocy of the head gasket, using Blue Goo in assembling a supposedly
"factory" quality long block is just plain cheap.  At least now I've
probably solved my intermittent "coughing" problem on the freeway - I
imagine it was poor valves getting so hot they began sticking.  =
Hopefully
driving around for 4 years with basically no circulation in the head =
hasn't
caused _too much_ damage and I can still get a few good years out of it.

My point is that buying from a company rather than an individual in no =
way
guarantees that the vehicle you are buying is a sound one.  Quality =
takes
time, time is money, and companies exist to make money- not waste it on =
the
"little" things that really make the difference between ok work and =
great
work.

Just my $.02.

Fred

"If you want it done right, do it yourself- or at least have a beer and
watch."

------ =_NextPart_000_01BB8700.E9CA0020

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 22:11:43 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: Re: Swivel ball coating

On Sat, 10 Aug 1996, Robot10@aol.com wrote:

>5: I am going to have the swivel balls hard chrome/teflon plated by someone I
>know. I believe this teflon will prevent corrosion and make the balls a less
>vulnerable item. Has anyone ever tried this? would anyone be interested if I
>found that it worked?I suspect this would cost about 250.00 each ball. 

Mine started rusting within 6 months. Please keep us informed, but it is going 
to be a while before we know if it works, no?. At that price they would have to 
be a bit better than less vulnerable, they would have to be totally impregnable.
Allan
St. Lucia

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 03:39:00 +0200
From: Defender@belgonet.be (Luc Rokegem)
Subject: re: Brake conversion

Today we have changed the rear drumbrakes for diskbrakes and 
I did it with the help off my friend Paul Hassevoets in less
than 3 hours.
It was so easy, that even a child could do it :

First we removed the wheels and the halfshafts, then the drum,
the hub & stud assembly, the backplates and finaly the hub
bearing sleeve.  
We mounted new hub bearing sleves, then, we bolted it togethet 
with a bracket for the brake caliper, mounted the brake discs
with new bearings, put the halfshafts in, mounted the
caliper and fitted a new brake pipe and brake hose.
bleeding the system, putting the wheels back on and
making a little testdrive.  
Before the conversion I had to push very deep or twice before 
there was some braking, but now from the first pedalmovement the 110
starts braking and the breaking is also very progressive.  It doesn't
stop better than before, but the accesstime is much improved so that I
can tell that I now stop faster than before.

My friend wo has a SIII 88 asked me to tell you his brake-conversion :

He has put his front drum brakes to the rear and put the drum brakes from
the 1 ton model in front.  He says also that a brake servo is a must to
activate the brakes and that the braking is the same as trowing out an anchor !
He would like to hear some reactions about his conversion.

Sincerely, 
 

            _______________    Luc Rokegem
           //   |          |   St-Pauwels (Belgie)
    ______//_ _ |          |#  defender@belgonet.be
    |   __            __   |#  http://www.belgonet.be/~bn000165/index.html
    |__/  \__________/  \__|  
       \__/          \__/      lawyers and Land-Rovers must be well greased

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 23:50:33 -0400
Subject: Brake Conversions - Balance is Important

The first principle in brake engineering is the brakes should be balanced so
that the rear brakes do not lock before the front brakes. This is essential
for stable stopping. At the same time minimum stopping distances are
desirable. Simply bolting assorted components on a vehicle does not
necessarially achieve these aims. If you are duplicating a later factory
setup, INCLUDING the master cylinder and any balancing valves then it should
be fine. But I'm bothered by talk of simply swapping rear drums for disks,
etc. If you have a conversion which does not duplicate a standard LR setup
then at a minimum do some serious testing. Find a large, slippery surface
(easier in winter than summer) and build up to very hard braking. Look for
any tendency to swap ends, and be prepared for a spin. Then repeat on a dry
surface. 

Te relationships for stable braking are straightforward, but not simple. High
center of gravity, short wheelbase vehicles pose more difficulty than
passenger cars. And load carrying in the rear adds more difficulty. If anyone
is really interested I'll provide the titles of several references.

LR did upgrade brakes several times on Series LRs, and I gather the 90/110s
have also had some upgrades. To upgrade you brakes to a later configuration
get the relevant parts book with the configuration you want to use, then
collect the various bits called for.Swapping an 88" to the late SIII system
is fairly simple. Adding power assist is also quite feasible.

David Cockey
Rochester, Michigan
(As always the opinions expressed above do not necessarially reflect those of
my employer.)

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 17 lines 942 [forwarded 70 whitespace 179]
 Output: lines 715 [content 480  forwarded 30 (cut  40) whitespace 158]

Land Rover Owner Subscription Information:

	* All new subscription requests are via the digest. *

In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked
Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved
(by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Useful commands for this are 'index lro-digest' which returns a list of
files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc.

World Wide Web Sites start at
	 http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/pages.html
(shadow) http://www.Senie.com/billc/lr/pages.html

If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have 
understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

  -B

Back	Forward
Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.