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Date: Thu, 08 Aug 1996 07:06:26
From: CarDoctor@gnn.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: Re Engineering disk brakes.

Hi All,
 I have been reading, learning, & gathering technical tips for some time 
now.  One of the attractive things about Land Rovers is the exceptance of 
the re Engineering factor by those of us with the skills to no only repair 
the LR but to modify it to better fit our needs.
 I am sure that someone out there has Re Engineered disk brakes on to the 
series axles.  I recall hearing fo someone in a club out there making an 
adapter to mount the calaper (misspelled).  I do not want to install a coil 
axle or modify the spring mounts on a coil axle to fit the leaf springs 
either.  I have been looking at what it might take to mount the swivel 
housing & disk on a series axle.  They look like they would bolt up & that 
there should be a KIT out there to do this change.  
 Has anyone figured this out? 
I have heard that the brake master would also have to be changed to provide 
the right amout of braking fluid.

 I find it hard to believe with all of the creative & skilled people who own 
LR's that I am the first to be looking to do this.

Regards,
  Rob Davis_chicago

1971 (88SW) treeweaver
1965 (109SW) OX 
1965 (109) Dad's Toy (keeper only) 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Aug 96 08:02:47 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: He-Man Dave :-)

>>>>>David "Ungh" B. Boasts:
                ^^^^^^^

Not! :-) Just trying to help dispell the "rumor" that you need a frickin' crane 
to move the Series box. Im not much more than a *large* wimp that just knows how
to throw his weight around, and often has more balls than brains. If *I* can do 
it, then...

>>>> Ok Now try the same thing with the Lt95 (rangie) 4sp that Mirek and I are 
talking about.  If you can do that then I'm *really* impressed.....

I think I was also fairly well tanked at the time, or else I probably wouldn't 
have attempted it. So give a few extra pints and I'll give it a try...

Cheers

Dave "Did I hear something crack?" B.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Aug 96 08:16:45 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Remote Breathers for Axle Housing

>>>>>Does anyone have remote breathers on their Series trucks axles?  I question
where they should should be routed.  The front breather has a 22" plastic
hose that appears to go straight up, the rear has a 50" hose on a banjo
fitting, suggesting...not a real snip... it runs along the top of the axle 
before going up into
the rear bodywork.  No instructions came with the parts (#595396, #595473),
Rovers North made it sound intuitively obvious. 

No s**t! I went for the kits, which come with the same hoses and lots of stupid 
unnecessary hardware. I couldn't for thew life of me figure out how they were 
supposed to be routed, and I ended up having RN fax me the page from the Haynes 
manual. I still wasn't happy. I posted the question to the list and everybody 
seemed to have made their own, so...I ended up buying some identical hose from 
PEpe Boys, about 15 feet of it. They call it vaccuum hose. This came to a 
whopping 6 dollars. I used some 1/4" ID fuel hose to connect the pieces, it's a 
nice snug fit so you don't even need clamps, unless your a big wuss and you 
can't push em together far enough. I guess some clamps might help keep the water
out, but anyway i routed the rear one aprroximately the same way as the rear 
left brake pipe and then up along the flex hose. I fastened it once to the flex 
hose and leaving plenty o' slack fixed it to the brake pipe that follows the 
chassis and up into the engine compartment. (Not that i have an engine 
compartment yet!) The front one will just get clipped to the inside of the left 
wing, terminating somewhere up on the firewall. I've seen small fuel filters 
used on the ends of the tubes to keep dirt out. I was even thinking of using a 
piece of gore tex that would be "waterproof breathable" but that would be 
ridiculous and it would clog up pretty fast from all the underbonnet gunk.

Cheers

Dave "A fool and my money" B.

------------------------------

From: krm@mtnms.att.com
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 96 08:31:42 EDT
Subject: Tour of Barbados in a Defender Pickup (2nd try)

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  9 Aug 96  8:36:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Remote Breathers for Axle Housing

------------------------------

From: Bb0yz@aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 08:40:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Ferry Service around Darien

Do not send anymore e-mail to this member.  Member no longer at this site and
will not respond.  Please cc: this to any and all other Land Rover members.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 08:54:23 -0500
From: Fred Ellsworth <fellswor@camb-lads.loral.com>
Subject: Re[3]: The Land Rover gearbox jobs

>> The box isn't really that heavy, it is just a big chunk
>> to have to move on your own.  Dave VE4PN

>Huge strapping he-man that I am, (yeah, right) I was able to lift mine
>onto the
>workbench, but I wouldn't want to try removing it from the car without a
>>helper.   Dave "Ungh" B.

I wouldn't want to do it every day (or even once more), but I managed to
muscle the tranny out alone.  Wouldn't even attempt putting it back _in_
though.  Calmly aligning the clutch and screwing on bell housing fixing
nuts while in the process of contracting a double hernia ain't my idea of a
good time.

Fred

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 08:07:38 -5
Subject: Re: Off-roading rule.

> No matter what the vehicle, you don't get stuck.  You only get temporarily
> detained.

You haven't seen me get stuck. ;-)

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Aug 1996 10:31:44 -0500
From: "John P. Casteel" <jcasteel@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Need help on a phone call

Alain,

Let me know what you need and I'll place the phone call for you.

jcasteel@mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Aug 96 10:30:00 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: More idiotic drivel

Yet more useless babble pertaining to my restoration.

1. Last night I went to the paint store, and not remembering the color code, 
asked for Land Rover pastel green. They found it and made a perfect match 
without a sample. I also bought a spray set up, and all the hardener and reducer
I'll ever need...painted the floors and tranny tunnel, as well as the front 
radiator panel

2. Speaking of radiators, the recoring experiment is now over, and I must say it
is not an experience for the faint of heart. Basically this turned into an 
exercise in futility and frustration, and I ended up with a fu#king racing 
radiator with *slightly* (read LOTS) more fins per square inch. The reason I 
went the way of recoring was that the fellow claimed he would put in the exact 
same core as the old one for 242 dollars plus tax, with a twenty year warranty. 
Can't beat that, I thought. Well, so i get there and this big fat man hands me a
bill for 290 something dollars, and I'm like well what the hell? So I go look at
the rad, and its not a staggered core and its not continuous fin, like the 
original cores. So I ask him what's up, and he says "dat's a VeeEee core, just  
like you asked for" NO WAY! So i tell him I'm not paying the 290, and he gets 
all mad and we get into a big argument and he agrees to take 250 but only in 
cash. Forget it pal. I take one last look at the rad, and contemplate the 
limited availability of cash in my life and decide that I'm going to walk out. 
He says let me see your credit card!! I tell him forget it, deal is off. I go to
take my other radiator which he did nothing to and he tells me that I owe him 40
bucks for having him look at that one. At this point I'm walking out of the shop
and he tells me he's calling the cops!! I don't believe my ears. I wait around 
for the fuzz and he listens to both sides of our story and suggests that i take 
the radiator since the guy put alot of work into it. I agree, and granted this 
is a shop that came to me highly recommended so I'm not really worried about the
craftsmanship. The only thing I'm a little worried about is overcooling, but i 
figure the thermostat will just close up and keep things going at the right 
temperature...also the fins look like they could clog easily and not be as 
easily repaired in the field being so close together. Oh well...it looks good 
anyway.

3. The rest of my gearbox parts should be here today. .125 thrust washers and a 
small pin to hold the 2/3 gear bushing in place. The old one looked like 
something out of Alice in Wonderland...

4. The bulkhead is now "on the bench" at the welder's shop. If I had that thing 
today I'd be done by the end of August. So much for that. He's beginning to piss
me off, considering taking it back and trying it myself, but i want my doors to 
close...

5. Took the cylinder head over to the machine shop. Perhaps I will do better 
there than I did at the radiator shop. Should hear back today on what I need.

6. In general not having much luck with hired help. What the hell is wrong with 
people these days. Am I just anal retentive or doesn't any body care about 
attention to detail anymore? Glad I'm doing "most" everything myself. Hired out 
jobs so far are:

radiator 
bulkhead
cylinder head
spring bushing removal and spring reconditioning
(bushings burned out with a torch, left some nice gouges on inside bore of the 
spring...oy vey...)

7. Today/this weekend i plan to finish rebuilding the 'box, paint the underseat 
toolbox, and rivet it back onto the seatbox. Also should be able to mount 
radiator panel and radiator. If time allows I'll try to set the spring height 
and get my shocks and check straps put on. Maybe even mount the seat box and all
if I can get the gearbox in by myself. Any recommendations for greasing the 
splines of the primary pinion? Is this just to ease installation or to keep the 
disc from binding? What type of grease should I use?

Oof. Better go.

Dave "TM ajr" B.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Aug 1996 11:18:34 -0500
From: "John P. Casteel" <jcasteel@mindspring.com>
Subject: Apology

I recently posted a vehicle for sale while asking for help on a radio 
part.  I have been unsubscribed for a while and I seem to remember a 
rule against vehicle advertisements.  If so then please accept my 
apology.

Cheers, 

John Casteel

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 11:27:19 -0400
From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: Better seating!!???

Ned Heite writes...
> I suppose we'll next be hearing about stereo
>systems for leaf-sprung machines!

What would you like tho hear about them?  I can give you an ear full.

Shameless plug: You can see a photo of my installation at
<http://www1.ridgecrest.ca.us/RoverWeb/Jeff-Rover/Dashboard.html>

- and-

Look for *NEW* articles (which will be much more sophisticated in
appearance) on the OVLR Birthday Party and the Owls Head Rally ***COMING
SOON*** to a WWW browser near you!  (I know, they should be done by now,
but the work load around here has only been matched by the lack of
"response" to my timely invoices...)

RoverOn!

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg          Purple Shark Media                 Rowayton, CT

                         jeff@purpleshark.com
                          ==================
               My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
          My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
                       Taste for the good life,
                      I can see it no other way.
                                --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 11:18:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: King PTO winch question

On 9 Aug 1996, Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:

> As far as the driveshaft, leave it alone. It's supposed to do that, and I don't 
> think the power increase is worth the effort of shipping/unshipping the shaft.
>.
	I disagree.  Depending on how the winch is mounted, if the driveshaft
	is not snugly in the winch end of things, as it spins it will 
	wear away the housing into which it fits.  Stripping a couple of 
	bolts is far cheaper that trying to replace that bit of the winch.
	I disconnected mine to slow wear on the winch.  (Though in its
	current configuration I can use all the extra power from the engine
	that I can get... :-))

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 09:42:51 -0600 (MDT)
From: Andrew Howton <ahowton@agt.net>
Subject: Re: brake conversion

>>Is it a straight fit to replace the rear drum brakes for original Landrover
>>disk brakes on a salisbury axle from a 110 ?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
>        See ya.
>From: Mike Smith

There is a guy named Ashcroft who has an add in the LRO owner mag.  He does
alot of interesting convertions for Rovers ie.  heavier axle shafts & diffs,
automatic trans, locking diffs, etc.  A few months ago there was a new
product listed that was a bolt on caliper mount for the drum axle on 110s
and 90s (he also does a weld on mount).

Andrew Howton
(back on the net at last, now I can waste more time that I could have been
fixing my rovers with.)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 11:48:44 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: Re: Tour of St. Lucia

On Thu, 8 Aug 96, krm@mtnms.att.com wrote:
Re: Barbados:
 It is a recent
>venture and there is also one in St. Lucia out guide said.

That's right. In fact there are two operations in St. Lucia. They use open 101s, 
rather than Defenders. One is called Jeep Safari (duh) and the other is Trail 
Blazers. 

For anyone visiting here, they are both booked through St. Lucia Reps, tel 
(809)452 8232. According to a friend in the tourism business here, the trips to 
the rainforest, waterfalls etc are very popular get very good reports from the 
guests.
Cheers
Allan

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 96 11:53:11 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: More idiotic drivel

Dave's spending a few thousand in cash and about a hundred grand in 
aggravation to redo his truck.
Everyone please be kind enough to give him a short round of applause at 
the Mid-Atlantic Rally when he pulls up in it.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 11:53:44 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: Re: collectives - no landrovers

On Fri, 9 Aug 1996, Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au> wrote:
>This has nothing to do with Landrovers, it is sexist and not pc but I like it:

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
>  "No, no, it's an anthology of English prose."
>Lloyd
Perchance a fanfare of strumpets?

TGIF
Allan
>This has nothing to do with Landrovers, it is sexist and not pc but I like it:

------------------------------

From: "S. Vels" <svels@mail-server.dk-online.dk>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 17:52:36 +0001
Subject: Re: T-Shirt design

From:             Bruce.Curtis@Eng.Sun.COM (Bruce Curtis)
 
> Having lro@Land-Rover.Team.Net could be a real headache as people
> send "how do a sign up mail", instead you should use the new alias
> for auto-responding with information of: Info@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> or Information@Land-Rover.Team.Net
 
> What do you think?
 
> Bruce.
> '95 Disco

Forgive me for answering to your mail in public. I have had another 
opinion about adding a URL which i responded to in private. To the 
URL question i answered that no one would be able to read and 
remember all that writing when passing by. They will come up and ask 
if they are interested anyway.

I can't answer your question definitely. It all depends on the list 
members:

a. Why do we want to wear these shirts in public?

Do we want to promote the list or do we intend to show where we 
belong, as if we were a club. Or both. 

b. How do we want to do it. 

Are we going to develop a design we all like or are we going to be 
ultra practical. Or something in between.

Personally, i'm for the cosmetic approach. If someone is close enough 
to read the text, (s)he is close enough to ask. I can live with the 
very few that are too shy/busy/stupid to ask. There's no way to 
filter  "how do a sign up mail" 100% anyway.

So, what do people want?

rgds
sv/aurens

PS. Added a couple more designs. Let's see some stuff from others 
than Brian and me.

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com>
Subject: RE: Apology
Date: Fri, 09 Aug 96 12:00:00 CDT

That rule is crap!  If a person has a vehicle for sale, they should post   
it here!  If I am interested in buying a Land Rover, this is the first   
place where I would look.  Besides, where else would I go to buy a used   
Land Rover?  The local Land Rover dealer?  I think not.

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767

 ---------------------------------------------------------

I recently posted a vehicle for sale while asking for help on a radio
part.  I have been unsubscribed for a while and I seem to remember a
rule against vehicle advertisements.  If so then please accept my
apology.

Cheers,

John Casteel

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 09:35:18 -0700
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Pull-Pal & other anchors revisited

There was a thread recently about ground anchors for winching, such as the
Pull-Pal and the Danforth anchor.  I don't have experience with any of these
but am about convinced that the Pull-Pal is the way to go.

Last night in the supermarket, I saw a magazine that's not on all the
newstands, sort of a fourth-rate (that is in terms of market clout as it's
rather new) 4x4 magazine which is called something like Four Wheel and Sport
Utility (more or less).  This was the September issue.  In it there was a
pretty extensive article about testing ground anchors for anchoring winch
cables when there are no suitable trees.  I didn't buy the magazine as there
seemed to be nothing else of interest in it and so haven't read the article
in detail.  I did skim it though enough to see that that Pull-Pal worked
very well and the other anchors tried (both ones I'd not heard of
previously) didn't work for beans.  I don't thing the Danforth anchor was
part of the test--wish it had been.  I have a sneaking feeling, though, from
the comments I saw about how well the P-P worked and from comments on this
list about price, weight, compactness when folded, etc., that the P-P is the
more likely of the two.

There were a couple of interesting sidebars in the article as well.  One
pertained to the Max Tool or whatever it's called that Rovers North has been
selling for a number of years, you know, the gismo that interchangeably
serves as axe, hoe, rake, shovel, etc.  The author seemed to be very glad to
have it for digging out some of those anchors after use.  The other sidebar
pertained to another type of ground anchor, for chocking a vehicle's tyres
in place for stationary winching or to serve as a deadman for another
vehicle's winching.  This device was similar to ones I've seen in LROI and
LRW but had the additional feature of a harness to strap it over the tyre so
that it would not get buried in soft ground, especially sand.  No, I don't
remember the name of this gizmo.

I may yet go back and buy the magazine (when I'm less broke than I was last
night) as this anchor business is dear to my heart.  I was recently wishing
most fervently that I had such a device as I was quite stuck and there were
no trees in sight.  I finally managed to anchor to a small clump of
manzanita brush which held and got me out but gave a very poor pull angle
that made for quite a story (which I posted on the mendo_recce left-coast
list in June).

Cheers,

Granny
Deadwood Valley

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 12:31:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: For your amusement, being Friday and all that...

	News item for Friday.  For those not aware, they will be breaking
	the Northwest Territories (Canada) up in 1999.  The eastern bit 
	is going to be called Nunivit, or some such native like term.  The 
	territorial government for the western bit is running a contest 
	leading to some sort of a plebicite on the name for their half of 
	NWT.  NWT as a name is running in second place, far behind the first 
	place choice.

	The first place choice thus far...  Bob

	The commission running this doesn't really know what to do...  :-)

	(Source:  CBC Radio, As It Happens, about 7:40pm, Thursday Aug 8th)

	Rgds from the Great White North, soon to be called... Bob... 

	:-)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 18:27:26 +0200
From: Ketil Kirkerud <ketilk@a.sn.no>
Subject: Re: T-Shirt design

> From: "S. Vels" <svels@mail-server.dk-online.dk>
[...]
> a. Why do we want to wear these shirts in public?
> Do we want to promote the list or do we intend to show where we 
> belong, as if we were a club. Or both. 

Fwiw : for me it's both, but i'd say that the main thing for me is
to show where I belong.
> Personally, i'm for the cosmetic approach. If someone is close enough 
> to read the text, (s)he is close enough to ask. I can live with the 
> very few that are too shy/busy/stupid to ask. There's no way to 
> filter  "how do a sign up mail" 100% anyway.

Totally agree with you on this. I feel that the only net-related text
to be put on the shirt should be the address of the list (which is, after all
what binds us together, there _may_ actually be someone out there who can't
or won't use the web...).

> PS. Added a couple more designs. Let's see some stuff from others 
> than Brian and me.

For some strange reason your pages seem to be unaccesible right now..

rgds,

---Ketil Kirkerud ("Lillebil" - 1979 109" Safari SW)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 09:51:07 -0700
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: RE: Apology

>That rule is crap!  If a person has a vehicle for sale, they should post   
>it here!  If I am interested in buying a Land Rover, this is the first   
>place where I would look.  Besides, where else would I go to buy a used   
>Land Rover?  The local Land Rover dealer?  I think not.

What rule?  I've been on this list for over two years and am not aware of
such a rule.  Nor do I want to see one.  I'd find regular postings of
commercial interests' vehicles for sale a little tedious but don't really
want to see the businesses run off either as long as they are well behaved.
I'm glad for Mike Smith's (East Coast Rovers) participation.  And for that
matter, Jim Pappas's (thanks for the newsy bits, Jim) and Leslie Stutsman
(where are you Leslie?).  On the mendo_recce (left-coast) list, British
Pacific, Ltd. (of Burbank, CA) has played a valuable role of information,
assistance, and cameraderie that I would hate to lose.

>From time to time there have been wee bursts of participation from vendors
and garages in the UK and I'd frankly like to see a bit more.  We do a
pretty good job of helping each other but we don't know it all.

'nuff,

Granny

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 09:54:48 -0700
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: For your amusement, being Friday and all that...

>	The first place choice thus far...  Bob
>	The commission running this doesn't really know what to do...  :-)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>	Rgds from the Great White North, soon to be called... Bob... 
>	:-)

I didn't know Billy Gates had gotten his influence spread out *that* far!
Will the provincial mascot be a cute little dinosaur?  Will this be the
headquarters of the Canadian division of Microsoft?  Will Win99 come from there?

Waiting with 'bated breath (and turning blue),

Granny

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 11:56:30 -5
Subject: winch ground anchors

J.C. Whitney now sells winch ground anchors for attachment to your 
bumper for about $100, I believe. Perhaps one of our Chicago brethern 
 could take a look at one and report on construction quality?

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Aug 1996 13:04:02 -0500
From: "John P. Casteel" <jcasteel@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Apology

In response to my apology for posting a used RR ad, Doug Boehme wrote:
> That rule is crap! If a person has a vehicle for sale, they should post
> it here!  If I am interested in buying a Land Rover, this is the first
> place where I would look.  Besides, where else would I go to buy a used
> Land Rover?  The local Land Rover dealer?  I think not.

I hope that I didn't imply that someone has complained because nobody has.  I 
thought that I remembered this rule from a year or so ago.  I may (probably) am 
mistaken.  BTW there are some good sites to look for rovers including:

http://www.billwood.com/lr/

http://www.roversnorth.com/

http://www.kingsford-smith.co.uk/MG/rover/market.html

Cheers,

jc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 10:31:03 -0700
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: King PTO winch question

>> As far as the driveshaft, leave it alone. It's supposed to do that, and I
don't 
>> think the power increase is worth the effort of shipping/unshipping the
shaft.
>>.
>	I disagree.  Depending on how the winch is mounted, if the driveshaft
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>	current configuration I can use all the extra power from the engine
>	that I can get... :-))

This question puzzles me some.  I know that there were several versions of
these engine-driven Koenig winches but I thought all had a means of levering
the drive out when not in use.  Certainly the one I had was so equipped.

On person who might be of great help with questions about these winches is
Doug Shipman of Portland, Oregon.  I think he's installed and worked on
quite a number of them.  He has a marine mechanics shop, but I can never
remember the dba (it's Ship something).  I have his number at home but not
handy.  If you want it, e-mail me in the evening (Pacific Daylight Time) so
I'll pick up the message at home.  

Cheers,

Granny

------------------------------

From: "Leon Krolikowski" <zeway@netaxis.com>
Subject: RE: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 13:18:35 -0400

unsubscribe-Iro digest

----------
> From: Owner-LRO-Digest@playground.sun.com
> To: LRO-Digest@playground.sun.com
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
> =09
> Tell your friends SUBSCRIBE send a message to:
MajorDomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> with the text:					subscribe lro-digest
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>     2 m.belik@uws.EDU.AU Thu Aug  8 19:19   25/1076 
>     3 Wdcockey@aol.com   Thu Aug  8 19:22   32/1086  Re: Free-wheel hub=
s
>     4 EvanD103@aol.com   Thu Aug  8 19:21   26/1353  Re: Remote
Breathers for
>     5 Alan_Richer/CAM/Lo Thu Aug  8 19:22   52/2054  Re: Window Channel=
s
>     6 gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac Thu Aug  8 19:23   41/1871  Re: rustproofing
bulkhead
>     7 ecrover@midcoast.c Thu Aug  8 19:23   42/1678  Re: brake
conversion
>     8 sjak.r.haaheim@vg. Thu Aug  8 19:24   25/1054  T-shirts
>     9 harincar@internet. Thu Aug  8 19:24   59/2597  Re:  Suspension
Woes
>    10 75347.452@CompuSer Thu Aug  8 19:25   18/654   Dooohhh!
>    11 trowe@aae.wisc.edu Thu Aug  8 19:26   51/1640  Re: LroShop web
site
>    12 bcotton@lia.co.za  Thu Aug  8 19:26   26/885   Lots  o' Landies
>    13 bcotton@lia.co.za  Thu Aug  8 19:26   33/1239  Double sided
T-Shirt
>    14 cmw@tiac.net       Thu Aug  8 19:26   40/1976  LRO shop #?
>    15 75347.452@CompuSer Thu Aug  8 19:27   48/1876  Copy of: It's good
to be
>    16 eheite@dmv.com     Thu Aug  8 19:31   49/1897  Seats and Sounds
>    17 Solihull@aol.com   Thu Aug  8 19:31   17/799   Re: Wheel bearings
>    18 75347.452@compuser Thu Aug  8 19:33   48/1914  Copy of: It's good
to be
>    19 Wdcockey@aol.com   Thu Aug  8 19:33   38/1495  Re: Capstan troubl=
e
(Winc
>    20 whaight@honlab.nmf Thu Aug  8 19:33   43/1612  King PTO winch
question
>    21 fax.rescue@hunterl Thu Aug  8 19:33   30/1145  Re: T shirt order.
(austr
>    22 fax.rescue@hunterl Thu Aug  8 19:34   34/1505  Waxoyl bulkhead
thread, g
>    23 mbertran@interlinx Thu Aug  8 19:34   63/2088  Re: Suspension Woe=
s
>    24 fellswor@camb-lads Thu Aug  8 19:36   53/2411  re: buying from
commercia
>    25 dkenner@NRCan.gc.c Thu Aug  8 19:37   35/1163  Re: Window Channel=
s
>    26 jhaskell@iquest.ne Thu Aug  8 19:39   55/1994  Ferry Service
around Dari
>    27 rxq281@freenet.mb. Thu Aug  8 19:42   37/1213  collectives and
hypens
>    28 chrisste@clark.net Thu Aug  8 19:43   25/947   Re: Window Channel=
s
>    29 bens@ridgecrest.ca Thu Aug  8 19:45   28/1495  Re: Better
seating!!???
>    30 bens@ridgecrest.ca Thu Aug  8 19:45   38/2038  Re: OD Layshaft
removal
>    31 badams@usia.gov    Thu Aug  8 19:51   27/989   The vinyl
frontier...
>    32 badams@usia.gov    Thu Aug  8 19:51   31/1155  Re: Suspension Woe=
s
>    33 ernyoung@earthlink Thu Aug  8 19:54   48/2325  past Ghost in the
machine
>    34 ernyoung@earthlink Thu Aug  8 19:54   38/1459  T-Shirt Designs
>    35 gpool@pacific.net  Thu Aug  8 19:55   31/1302  That's it! (Was Re=
:
Colle
>    36 jjbpears@ix.netcom Thu Aug  8 20:00   34/1444  Re: Window-channel=
s
>    37 lzeltzer@isdnet.co Thu Aug  8 20:03   63/2040  RE: LroShop web
site
>    38 karlsson@edgenet.n Thu Aug  8 20:04   51/1845  Re: Better
seating!!???
>    39 karlsson@edgenet.n Thu Aug  8 20:04   32/1091  Re: T-shirts
(Summary)
>    40 rover@pinn.net     Thu Aug  8 20:09   52/2440  Mid-Atlantic Land
Rover R
>    41 dbobeck@inetgate.u Thu Aug  8 20:13   28/1173  Re[2]: The Land
Rover gea
>    42 svels@mail-server. Thu Aug  8 20:13   35/1160  Website accessible
>    43 Wdcockey@aol.com   Thu Aug  8 20:25   44/2147  Re: The vinyl
frontier...
>    44 LilRed90@aol.com   Thu Aug  8 20:25   15/631   Re: Off-roading
rule.
>    45 lzeltzer@isdnet.co Thu Aug  8 20:35   31/1075  RE: LroShop web
site
>    46 dwebb@waite.adelai Thu Aug  8 20:44   34/1191  Re: He-Man Dave :-=
>    47 lmkessler@srnet.co Thu Aug  8 21:16   30/1089  re:Suspension Woes
>    48 lmkessler@srnet.co Thu Aug  8 21:16   34/1275  T Shirt
>    49 krm@mtnms.att.com  Thu Aug  8 21:33   53/2205  Tour of Barbados i=
> 	  Contents:
n
a Def
>    50 Spenny@aol.com     Thu Aug  8 21:35   19/666   LROs in San Diego
>    51 NF@orc.soton.ac.uk Thu Aug  8 21:42   30/1392  Re: Taking the roo=
f
off (
>    52 eberhard.seipelt@u Thu Aug  8 22:44   21/800   unsubscribe
>    53 lloyd@cs.monash.ed Thu Aug  8 23:03   25/1012  collectives - no
landrove
>    54 100770.1655@CompuS Thu Aug  8 23:42   31/1316  Need help on a
phone call
>    55 paul@www.adventure Fri Aug  9 00:01   62/2972  Re: 2.6 fun
>    56 bb@olivetti.dk     Fri Aug  9 00:13   73/3301  RE: The Land Rover
gearbo
>    57 bb@olivetti.dk     Fri Aug  9 00:14   54/2159  RE: Remote
Breathers for
>    58 bb@olivetti.dk     Fri Aug  9 00:29   74/3361  RE: The Land Rover
gearbo
>    59 marsden@digicon-eg Fri Aug  9 00:30   37/1166  Re: Lots  o'
Landies
>    60 bb@olivetti.dk     Fri Aug  9 00:31   57/2219  RE: Remote
Breathers for
>    61 Rick.Crider@trelli Fri Aug  9 01:44   48/2032  Series
Radio/Speaker encl
>    62 Alan_Richer/CAM/Lo Fri Aug  9 03:20   42/1905  Re: King PTO winch
questi
>
> ------------------------------
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> Well, I got the head off my engine this a.m. really not to tough at all.
> Did find that the therostat housing to water pump fitting is/was broken
-not
> sure how serious this is, as I'm sure I could seal the junction back up
with
> the normal gasket + some blue gook and both halves look *really* stuck
where
> they are.  Any related experiences out there?
> ------------------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~=
~

>  Christopher Weinbeck       Office Logic, Inc.      V (508) 392-0288
>    _______                  7 Littleton Road        F (508) 692-0897  
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>   |___\_|_]__]            
>     (o)    (o)  '69 109" RHD OD 2.6 Dormobile                
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~=
~

>
> ------------------------------
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> UWS, Macarthur               Phone: 018-028-708 or 61 2 823 9445
> P.O. Box 555                     FAX:   61 46 203025             
> Campbelltown, 2560                                                     =

     
> NSW     
> Australia.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> Subject: Re: Free-wheel hubs
>
> Joining the search for the truth about the number of splines on axle
ends
> Mike adds:
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> SIII 88" after July 1980 24 spline
> SIII 109" 24 spline
> Above are for civilian LRs, don't know what was delivered to MOD. Would
guess
> that SII & SIIA military were 10 spline.
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> Subject: Re: Remote Breathers for Axle Housing
>
> Does anyone have remote breathers on their Series trucks axles?  I
question
> where they should should be routed.  The front breather has a 22"
plastic
> hose that appears to go straight up, the rear has a 50" hose on a banjo
> fitting, suggesting it runs along the top of the axle before going up
into
> the rear bodywork.  No instructions came with the parts (#595396,
#595473),
> Rovers North made it sound intuitively obvious.  I remember that phrase
as
> being used by my college math prof years ago, followed by "the proof
will be
> left as an exercise for the student".  I don't need an exercise in
futility
> as I try to determine the best way and place to route these hoses if
someone
> has already done this, so please let me know.  Thanks
> Erik van Dyck
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)]
>
> >Has anyone attempted rustproofing the inside of a bulkhead while the
rest
> of the
> >vehicle is still attached to it? In this climate it will most
definitely rust
> >from the inside out. There is a drain hole at the bottom of the door
> >post that could be widened to get a tube with sprayer nozzle all the
way up
> the
> >post, but what about the top hollow sections, above and below the
vents? Two
>
> Allan
> I find it easier to take out one of philips head screws holding the
hinges
> onto the bulkhead and squirt wax in that way rather than from the botto=
m
of
> the leg. As for the top hollow sections and the windscreen frame,  I
don't
> think there is an easy way in without drilling some discreet holes...
> 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)]
>
> >Is it a straight fit to replace the rear drum brakes for original
Landrover
> >disk brakes on a salisbury axle from a 110 ?
>
>         Depends on what you mean by straight fit. If you are looking fo=
r
a
> no modification bolt up, it isn't. The drum brake axle housing does not
> have the caliper mounting points, etc. A good welder could install
these,
> but it isn't a bolt up. Also you'll have to look into brake reduction
> valves as found on the 4 wheel disc systems and plumb that into the rea=
r
> system, as well as new brake pipes, etc.
>         Have fun.
>
>         Do they make a Salisbury rear with discs? I haven't seen one. I
> know the US D110's had drum rears. Anyone in the UK seen a Salisbury
with
> rear disc?
>         See ya.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
> Subject: Re:  Suspension Woes
>
> Hey, glad you took the plunge with the IIa! You'll soon be discovering
all
> sorts of hidden mechanical ability (or, failing that, hopefully
discovering
> hidden money...).
>
> Anyhow, I was pretty much in the same boat when I bought mine, not bein=
g
a
> spanner head or anything (UK equiv. of a rachet head or motor head). Do
plan
> on buying a book, at least the haynes manual, that will help a lot, and
> you always got us. And don't be afraid of it, they have to be close to
the
> simplist motor vehicle I've ever seen.
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> springs are shot is to measure the distance between the top of the axle
> to the bottom of the bump stop. The bump stop is a block of rubber
attached
> to the bottom side of the frame to keep the axle slamming into steel.
Mine
> were missing when I bought it, but I've since replaced them as well as
the
> rest of the suspension. I don't have dimensions, but they're in the boo=
k
> or someone at BP or RN or here should know...
>
> If you end up replacing the springs, and I'm guessing you will, you'll
> want to do the eight frame bushings as well (the springs will have new
> bushes in them. *That* is going to be that hard part. My preferred
method
> is the one in the tips sections of the RoverWeb page, an air chisel and=

> socket. Might need new shackles, too, relativly cheap, and new bolts an=
d
> nuts. Maybe if you talk nice to the guys at British Pacific they'll cut=

> you a deal on the whole package. BP has oem springs for about $25
cheaper
> each than genuine, I have a set on the rear of my 88 and am very
satisifed.
>
> The job of changing it all is not complicated at all, and with the
bushings
> might take the whole weekend, but not much more, especially if you got =
a

> friend who works for beer. :-)
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
>
> (a public service brought to you by the Department of Redundancy
Department. )
>
> ------------------------------
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 76 lines)]
> I hate to be the one who *asks* for advertising on the list, but for
> goodness sake would the LRO Book Shop please start putting a phone
number in
> their messages!!!  Not much that's more aggravating than someone
soliciting
> calls without providing a #.  (yeah, yeah there's whitworth bolts, and
> swivel ball bolts, spring bushings and customers that don't pay...)
>
> I vote for clatter, and while moving from puddle to pool thought also o=
f
'a
> whole slick worth of Rovers'.
>
> Retreating to pull the head off my 2.6 in search of worn wrist pin
bushings,
> prayers appreciated -Still looking for a wardrobe for my truck, speakin=
g
of
> prayers.
>
> Chris
> I vote for clatter, and while moving from puddle to pool thought also o=
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~=
~

>  Christopher Weinbeck       Office Logic, Inc.      V (508) 392-0288
>    _______                  7 Littleton Road        F (508) 692-0897  
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>   |___\_|_]__]            
>     (o)    (o)  '69 109" RHD OD 2.6 Dormobile                
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~=
~

>
> ------------------------------
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)]
>
> I'v been away for awhile and when I got back it seems that the clutch o=
n
the old
> sIII was rusted to the point where it wouldn't disengage, damn thing.
My wife
> was driving it every 2-3 weeks and wrote me that she could not get the
thing
> into gear at idle.  Good thing she starts cars in neutral.  Anyway,  I
called
> Sandy Grice and Rovers North for advice and both methods failed.  I
wound up
> taking off the tranny and prying the clutch plate from the flywheel wit=
h
(sorry)
> a screwdriver.  That mother was stuck!  Since I was in there I replaced
my sandy
> sounding throw-out bearing.  I was back on the road with black nails
within 48
> hours.  Damn, It's good to be back under my rover!
>
> Current problem - I need to replace my right front door top.  The mothe=
r
> scratcher is rotted and will not stand up to my new weather stripping.
Where
> can I get one without buying a new one.  I need other parts but that's
another
> posting.  I'm also looking for a 109 to make into a campmobile (don't
tell me
> wife).
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
>
> I put a hundred dollars worth of sound-deadener in the floor of Baby an=
d
> now I can hear the turn signal clicker when the engine is idling! When =
I
> discovered that a shortwave car radio costs $700, I hung my Radio Shack
> portable in a leather sling on the dash. For cup holder I bought a
plastic
> thingy at Pep Boys. Now I am looking for a more permanent installation
for
> the radio. Thinking of replacing the middle seat with a thingy that can
> hold my phone as well. Right now, all my accessories run from the
emergency
> plugs in the dash.
>
> Honest, officer, I couldn't see the speedometer for all the stuff on th=
e
dash!
> 60 miles per hour? Never!
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Has anyone tried those Welsh foam headliners with the speaker insets? I
> understand they can be imported quickly and cheaply into the US but hav=
e
> heard nothing about the quality. Sounds too good to be true, methinks.
Put
> the speakers within a few inches of your ears.  Get to like Bartok.
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
> | _ |  | --]   archaeologists and Historians
> =3D(O)-----(O)=3D  "Baby" short wheelbase Land Rover IIA 1969, 2.25 lit=
er
petrol
> """"""""""""""""
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>
> No, wait! I *meant* the inner race, which is the outboard part of the
inboard
> bearingxxNever mindx had my knee restrung recently. It must be the
percodans.
> Cheers!! John"I cant work on anything right now, anyway, no extra hands
to
> hold tools!" Dillingham
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
> My thanks to those who sent support.
>
> I'v been away for awhile and when I got back it seems that the clutch o=
n
the old
> sIII was rusted to the point where it wouldn't disengage, damn thing.
My wife
> was driving it every 2-3 weeks and wrote me that she could not get the
thing
> into gear at idle.  Good thing she starts cars in neutral.  Anyway,  I
called
> Sandy Grice and Rovers North for advice and both methods failed.  I
wound up
> taking off the tranny and prying the clutch plate from the flywheel wit=
h
(sorry)
> a screwdriver.  That mother was stuck!  Since I was in there I replaced
my sandy
> sounding throw-out bearing.  I was back on the road with black nails
within 48
> hours.  Damn, It's good to be back under my rover!
>
> Current problem - I need to replace my right front door top.  The mothe=
r
> scratcher is rotted and will not stand up to my new weather stripping.
Where
> can I get one without buying a new one.  I need other parts but that's
another
> posting.  I'm also looking for a 109 to make into a campmobile (don't
tell me
> wife).
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
> -     the moveable engage/disengage part ( connects winch to camshaft)
> -
> -Because the civil type is very rare, especially in germany, it=B4s not
easy to
>
> -find spares.
>
> I'm aware of two different capstan winches used on Series LRs, but have
never
> heard them refered to as "military" and "civilian". The early style is
> identified by the cast ends on the rope guide which mount on top of the
> bumper. The drive shafts have splines. The latter style has simple bent
steel
> angle ends on the rope guide which bolt to the winch base. It has a
> completely different drive arrangement with a "Hooke" type u-joint and =
a
> square section.
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)]
>
> I recently bought a 1970 Series IIa 88 that has a King PTO Winch (Model=

> LR-591) from Koenig Iron Works. The front oil seal (part # LR52-R35)
> needs to be replaced. Does anyone know of a source for parts for these
> winches? Also the winch is powered with a drive shaft directly from the=

> front of the engine, so when the engine is running, the shaft is always=

> turning; should this driveshaft be disconnected for street driving, and
only
> connected when I plan to go off-road?
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 63 lines)]
> Thus, it seems to me that if the
> >problem is that I'm getting hard bumps when I go over rough roads, the=
n
> >perhaps I need new springs. 
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>
> Mine doesn't move at all, and the springs are only two years old. The
ride
> would be stiffer if you have 109 springs instead of 88 springs. The 109
> springs have 11 leaves while the 88 has 9. Crawl under the Rover (You'l=
l
get
> used to that) and count the number of leaves.
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>
> That is a sign of fatigue. You are probably in for a new set of springs.

> If you find that even with the new springs the ride is too stiff, you
can
> always remove some of the leaves. A friend of mine over here in the
> Townships has only three leaves on the front and it drives surprinsigly
well.
>
> Hope this helps,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 22 lines)]
> Subject: re: buying from commercial dealers
>
> Someone mentioned the other day that they wanted to buy a LR from a
company
> rather than an individual in order to guarantee the quality of the
vehicle.
> Personally, I'd prefer to buy from an individual who cared about the
> vehicle.
>
> When I bought my rover (a '71 IIA 88") the PO had just had $12,000+
worth
> of parts/labor done at Rover's North (and no, I didn't pay **anything
> near** half that).  I have run across so much lame craftsmanship I can'=
t
> believe it, especially considering RNs reputaion for quality.  The
latest
> was yesterday when I went to put in a new head gasket.  I popped off th=
e
> head only to discover they had used a faulty head gasket in assembling
the
> engine.  It had no holes for three of the coolant passages!!  The fourt=
h
> coolant passage was blocked by a large chunk of Blue Goo!!  Ignoring th=
e
> idiocy of the head gasket, using Blue Goo in assembling a supposedly
> "factory" quality long block is just plain cheap.  At least now I've
> probably solved my intermittent "coughing" problem on the freeway - I
> imagine it was poor valves getting so hot they began sticking.
Hopefully
> driving around for 4 years with basically no circulation in the head
hasn't
> caused _too much_ damage and I can still get a few good years out of it.
>
> My point is that buying from a company rather than an individual in no
way
> guarantees that the vehicle you are buying is a sound one.  Quality
takes
> time, time is money, and companies exist to make money- not waste it on
the
> "little" things that really make the difference between ok work and
great
> work.
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)]
>
> > problem now is how to get the old ones out and the new ones in.  I
looked
> > through the books I have (Repair Operations, and Handybook), but see
nothing
>
> 	Drill out the screws holding them in. 
>
> >         So, if any of you have suggestions, I'd be quite grateful.
Also, if
> > you can recommend any book on LR restoration, I'd be furthur obliged.
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
>
> Hope this is not construed as a commercial endorsement and appropriate
for
> this group!
>
> Several weeks ago I put out an inquiry requesting information on auto
ferry
> service around Darien. John Huebner shared the following information
with me
> and I thought I would share it with the group should you be rovering to
the
> south:
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>
> The boat was shut down for repairs when we arrived in Panama, so we had
to
> wait two weeks for it to resume service.  The cost was less than stated
in
> "lonely planet".  It's about $120 per person and $25 per vehicle.  They
sail
> from Colon on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, leaving at 7PM and
arriving
> in Cartegena the next day at noon.  The boat is very comfortable with
nice
> cabins, dining area, bars (drinks, dinner, and breakfast are included!)=
,
> casino, and pool/jacuzzi.
>
> Rumor has it that the boat is running at a loss as it hasn't become as
> popular as anticipated.  It was only about half full when we rode, only
eight
> passenger cars.  I don't know if that means it won't be in business for
long.
>
> Hope this info helps you with your travels.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>
> ps- I was very impressed with Cartegena.  It's a beautiful spanish
colonial
> city.
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 22 lines)]
> they introduced unhyphenated Range Rover, for marque consistency?
>
> Then again, Canadian Press spells toque, "tuque" when they mean a
knitted
> wool cap. Thye're right (by OED), but they're also wrong (by most
> Canadians) on that one.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)]
>
> Check out the latest issue of Land Rover Owner International. Good
article
> on replacing them.
>
> Chris
> >        So, if any of you have suggestions, I'd be quite grateful.
Also, if
> >you can recommend any book on LR restoration, I'd be furthur obliged.
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)]
>
> Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-
----
> Benjamin Smith----------bens@ridgecrest.ca.us----------1972 Land Rover
SIII 88
> "...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate an=
y
entry
>  from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it u=
p
the
>  Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin
Archie
>
> ------------------------------
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)]
> 	The suggestion in an article I read is to tap the lathe center hole
> and pull it out by hand.   In theory it is running on needle bearing an=
d

> should come out easily.  On mine I had to drill a hole on the other sid=
e
of
> the case and press it out with a 10 ton press.  Needless to say the
bearings
> were already destroyed and the layshaft had been severely scored (which
is
> why I couldn't pull it by hand).  So the OD was replaced.
>
> Ben
> Subject: Re: OD Layshaft removal
-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-
----
> Benjamin Smith----------bens@ridgecrest.ca.us----------1972 Land Rover
SIII 88
> "...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate an=
y
entry
>  from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it u=
p
the
>  Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin
Archie
>
> ------------------------------
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> I was wondering if anyone knows of a source for the original grey
> 'elephant scrotum' vinyl that was used in the S2A. It sure would be kee=
n

> to have a roll of this to redo the fascinating interior of the 109.
> Preference for material that is not 30 years old.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
> novice, as it can be a troublesome and dangerous chore. Be sure to
> replace the rubber bushings and shackle bolts at the same time. The new=

> polyurethane type of bushings are well worth the extra money.
> You will also need new U-bolts.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
> 	For a few weeks I was having a similar problem with my wifes Mercedes
> 300TD wagon. The brakes would be fine untill the car warmed up, and the=
n
> the power assist went on vacation requiring me to stand on the pedal in
> order to stop. If anyone out there needs a little stress in thier lifes
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> purposes, but when I pulled the boost from the 300td it was filled with
> engine oil. Seems the vacuum pumps diaphram had been comprimised
> allowing engine oil into the vacuum lines thus fowling the brake booste=
r
> with oil and possibly not creating enough vacuum. So I've got a lovely
> oily mess to deal with so I had better finish my coffee and get back to
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 33 lines)]
> Nice design, and a very nice page...Good luck on your expedition..
>  Maybe in place of the globe you could place an image of the whole worl=
d
> like the map at http://pubweb.parc.xerox.com/map and how about the coil
> sprung landies? just cause we have a/c doesn't mean we don't want
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
>
> >After much deep thought and consideration I have decided the collectiv=
e
for a
> >group of Land Rovers is "A Lode of Land Rovers". The Lode either refer=
s
to Lode
> >Lane or as in gold.
>
> I don't see how we can top that.  That's what I'll call 'em from now on
> (although I'll have to call that bunch out my window a "Rabble of
Rovers" as
> they aren't much of a lode, really).
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
>
> >        That answers my channel question, but brings up another.  How
do I
> >get the glass out before going to town on the rivets (which BTW, are
actual
> >rivets in mine--not rust rivets--is that normal?).
> >C
>
> Odd.  Unless lightweights are peculiar (your's is the lightweight isn't
it?) there
> shouldn't be actual rivets in the channels.  I imagine your windows hav=
e
a bumpy ride
> along the channels.  If they've been added later you're definitely
looking at redrilling
> new screw holes since the existing ones will now be too large to fit a
decently small
> headed screw.
>
> As I recall you don't get the glass out before.  It is removed and
installed laying in
> the channels  (this memory is biased by recent work on the rear side
windows on my 109
> though).
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>
> I missed the first email. but if you are looking for a secure server an=
d
=3D
> soon automatic credit card authorization perhaps we should be your isp!
=3D
> ISD is pretty good on secure transaction services at reasonable prices.
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 35 lines)]
>
> .> >"good for the posture." I suppose we'll next be hearing about stere=
o
> .> >systems for leaf-sprung machines!
> .> [8<]
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> IIA.
> .> I'll soon be doing my solution--a Tuffy box which can hold a stereo
in
> lieu
> .> of the middle seat.  I still haven't figured out where to put the
> speakers,
> .> though.  Takes conversion to negative earth, too.   Only problem may=

> be
> .> getting an amplifier to make the stereo louder than the transmission.
>
> _Way_ too late!  I put a (cheap) stereo in my SWB IIA back in the early=

> '70s.  I suspended from the roof behind the rear view mirror.  I kept
the
> original positive earth system by simply insulating the equipment from
> the car and supplying positive and negative leads as required.  Worked
> fine until some fiend ripped it out by the roots, leaving nasty holes i=
n

> my roof.  I plan to do this trick again now that I'm restoring, but I
> can't remember if I also insulated the antenna.  It's tough getting old.

>  Well, not really.  You just have to get born early!
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)]
>
> Make that three.  I didn't see at first who posted it, but I thought to=

> myself that it must be from another marine biologist on the list.  But
> you said you had two replies.  I know of at least one other marine
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
> Just got the flyers/reservation forms back from the printers.  If
> interested, drop me your snail-mail address and I will post one out.  I=
f
you
> are a ROAV member or have attended the rally before, the form should be
in
> your mailbox early next week.
>
> Now the particulars...the Mid-Atlantic Land-Rover Rally is to be held
the
> weekend of October 4-6 at Penlan Farm in Buckingham County, Virginia. 
> Buckingham is the geographic center of Virginia, and the site is about
seven
> miles south of the US Rt. 15 bridge over the James River.  We are
expecting
> 150+ Rovers.
>
> There will be the usual fun and games plus a few surprises.  We have
built a
> trials course on-site for the "Aluminium Man Triathlon".  Though there
is
> plenty of room for camping, if you must have a roof over your head, inn=
s
and
> B&B places are within about 15 miles.  There will be catered meals
Saturday
> night and Sunday morning.  Mind you, the site is out in the *sticks* -
> stores and supplies are a dozen miles away.
>
> Lots of prizes and give-aways.  Dash plaques, T-shirts, a teeter-totter=
,

> blindfold obstacle course, feely-meely box, silent auction.  Check out
Feb's
> LRW for photos of last year's event or call up Jeff Berg's article on
the
> RoverWeb.  Cheers
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
>
> Huge strapping he-man that I am, (yeah, right) I was able to lift mine
onto the
> workbench, but I wouldn't want to try removing it from the car without =
a
helper.
>
> Dave "Ungh" B.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 29 lines)]
> >I was wondering if anyone knows of a source for the original grey
> >'elephant scrotum' vinyl that was used in the S2A. It sure would be
keen
> >to have a roll of this to redo the fascinating interior of the 109.
> >Preference for material that is not 30 years old.
>
> I was looking for some "elephant hide" about two years ago. Apparently
three
> or four years ago several rolls were sold by Jacksons of Doncaster, a
> military surplus outfit in England, but they were sold out. Dunsfold
said
> they had a roll in the attic, described it as "regret, not cheap" and
wanted
> photos and details of the vehicle it was intended for. There may be som=
e
> other 30 year old rolls lurking in England. The departed RoverWorks of
NY
> claimed to have a supply. If anybody is interested the LR part number
was
> 91979 for bulk "Leather cloth, grey, 50" wide".
>
> I did locate a source of nearly identical grey "leather cloth" in
England
> Woolies (Ian & Caroline Woolstenholmes)
> Market Deeping, Peterborough
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Fax 01778 341847
> They supply trim materials for vintage and classic cars, and carry
several
> versions of grey leather cloth which are very similar to the material i=
n
our
> SIIs. Prices for 54" wide material ranged from 7.65# to 16.55# with the
most
> expensive potentially the best match and most durable.
>
> I called them, and they sent a price list and some samples. I haven't
ordered
> any yet, but will do so once the mechanical work is under control.
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> Subject: Re: Off-roading rule.
>
> No matter what the vehicle, you don't get stuck.  You only get
temporarily
> detained.
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>
> Whoops. sorry about the commercial response to LROshop I intended to
mail that directly to them.
>
> a thousand humble apologies
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> David "Ungh" B. Boasts:
>
> > Huge strapping he-man that I am, (yeah, right) I was able to lift min=
e

> > onto the workbench, but I wouldn't want to try removing it from the
car
> > without a helper.
>
> Ok Now try the same thing with the Lt95 (rangie) 4sp that Mirek and I
are
> talking about.  If you can do that then I'm *really* impressed.....
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
>
> If I understand the way this works, you might as well give in now and
just
> do that complete frame replacement (coil sprung) and get it over with.
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>
> Who ever is keeping score and what ever the final design, put me down
for
> one XL size.
>
> It is time for someone to offer a few designs on a web page, get the
list's
> preference and start taking orders.
>
> I think LRO shop is the best way to market the shirt.  They are on the
list,
> they are in the mail order business and if they make a dollar or so,
good
> for them.
>
> BTW, is this a leaf sprung LR exclusive?  I have not seen a word about =
T
> shirts on the coil list?
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
> is there anyone on the list from San Diego?
>
> I am here on business, and would love to talk rovers and drink beer wit=
h
> anyone in the neighboorhood
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 32 lines)]
> Subject: collectives - no landrovers
>
> This has nothing to do with Landrovers, it is sexist and not pc but I
like it:
>
>   Four young men were parking their car at the Grand-National when a ca=
r
with
>   four young women drove up.
>   "What's a good collective noun for that car-load?" said one man.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)]
>
> Thanks for all the advice on better seating in my 90. I'll try out some
hints.
>
> Now I need some more help. I just built in an cruise control unit I
bought last
> year in the US. Sadly the manual got lost somehow, I suspect either
Junior
> having eaten it or the dog having played with it or something similar.
> All that's left is the box with an adress and an 1-800 number on it. I
tried to
> write them but got no response. And the phone number is not available
from
> outside the US (beside my spoken english being rather crude...).
> So could PLEASE one of you guys spare 5 minutes and make a short free
phone call
> inside the US on my behalf? Please contact me directly for details, it'=
s
really
> nothing complicated.
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
> cmw wrote:
> > Well, I got the head off my engine this a.m. really not to tough at
all.
> > Did find that the therostat housing to water pump fitting is/was
broken -not
> 	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> >   |___\_|_]__]
> >     (o)    (o)  '69 109" RHD OD 2.6 Dormobile
> 			---ALAIN---
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~=
~

> Hi Christopher,
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> I assume you're talking about the flange that comes down from the
> thermostat housing and mates onto the top of the water pump. There is a=

> special high-heat O-ring that provides the seal inbetween. When the sea=
l

> becomes soft it is US. It's not an ordinary O-ring either BTW, but a
> dealers-only replacement (ordinary O-rings can't take the heat). When
you
> disassemble you will probably find that the flange has partially rusted=

> through underneath the O-ring. Replace the O-ring and, for good measure=
,

> apply a liberal dose of Hermatite or Adlock (high-heat gasket sealant),=

> and your problem should go away - I'm assurred that in a pinch you can
> get away with just the sealant but don't believe in taking risks I can
> avoid. If you don't fix this it is almost impossible to spot what the
> cause of a heating problem is, as it will only manifest under high
> pressure when the engine is very hot, and the pin-prick leak will emit =
a

> thin spray of water which will have dissolved by the time you get the
> bonnet (hood) open to look for it.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
> > remove the seat boxes as well you can lift it out through the top !
> > This is all well and true if you're taking the thing out in one great
lump.
> Points taken but Mirek was asking about a stage 1 box.  These are a one=

> piece casting (the t/case and g/box are one unit) and are designed to b=
e

> removed from below (hence the removable g/box x-member)  The engine
hoist
> is a great idea, but I for one can barely afford a small "K-mart" floor=

> jack let alone a hoist.
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
> the gearbox x-member.
> Place the trolley under the box, and lower the box. If necessary push
the
> frame a little apart with the highlift.
> When the box is on the trolley, I intent to remove the come-along and
the
> crane.
> Then lift the rover with the highlift, and place it on axles stands in
the front
> end, and draw the trolley out. The front end, because if I try to lift
the rear
> that much, I also will have  to rebuild the roof.
>
> The width is restricted by the door to my workshop. Therefore I will
roll the
> box in the middel of the workshop and with the come-along fixed to the
roof,
> I will lift the box and place a table under it.
>
> This, I hope can be done without help, but I can tell that some time
during
> coming winter.
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)]
> where they should should be routed.
> I don't need an exercise in futility as I try to determine the best way
=3D
> and place to route these hoses if someone has already done this, so =3D
> please let me know.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> I suggest you fix it with plastic cable ties.
> Start at the breather, follow the axle to the spring, follow the spring
=3D
> leaves to the
>  frame, and then end as high as possible. In the front under the =3D
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> hood/bonnet,
>  in the air inlet. I will not get water in the axles before the motor i=
s
=3D
> drowned.
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)]
> > remove the seat boxes as well you can lift it out through the top !
> > This is all well and true if you're taking the thing out in one great
lump.
> Points taken but Mirek was asking about a stage 1 box.  These are a one=

> piece casting (the t/case and g/box are one unit) and are designed to b=
e

> removed from below (hence the removable g/box x-member)  The engine
hoist
> is a great idea, but I for one can barely afford a small "K-mart" floor=

> jack let alone a hoist.
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
> the gearbox x-member.
> Place the trolley under the box, and lower the box. If necessary push
the
> frame a little apart with the highlift.
> When the box is on the trolley, I intent to remove the come-along and
the
> crane.
> Then lift the rover with the highlift, and place it on axles stands in
the front
> end, and draw the trolley out. The front end, because if I try to lift
the rear
> that much, I also will have  to rebuild the roof.
>
> The width is restricted by the door to my workshop. Therefore I will
roll the
> box in the middel of the workshop and with the come-along fixed to the
roof,
> I will lift the box and place a table under it.
>
> This, I hope can be done without help, but I can tell that some time
during
> coming winter.
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)]
>
> NO British vehicle would be a lager, would it?  A Continental European
one
> perhaps...                  :-)
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
> where they should should be routed.
> I don't need an exercise in futility as I try to determine the best way
=3D
> and place to route these hoses if someone has already done this, so =3D
> please let me know.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> I suggest you fix it with plastic cable ties.
> Start at the breather, follow the axle to the spring, follow the spring
=3D
> leaves to the
>  frame, and then end as high as possible. In the front under the =3D
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> hood/bonnet,
>  in the air inlet. I will not get water in the axles before the motor i=
s
=3D
> drowned.
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 59 lines)]
>  Input:  messages 62 lines 0 [forwarded 100 whitespace 562]
>  Output: lines 1804 [content 1011  forwarded 82 (cut  18) whitespace
551]
>
> Land Rover Owner Subscription Information:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked
> Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be
retrieved
> (by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>
> If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have
> understood what you sent him, contact
majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>
>   -B
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 10:40:48 -0700
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: brake conversion

Andrew,

Hmmm, do you know where Ian Ashcroft's shop is located?  I'm going to be in
the UK in November and that's one shop I'd like to try to visit, if I can
work it in.

>There is a guy named Ashcroft who has an add in the LRO owner mag.  He does
>alot of interesting convertions for Rovers ie.  heavier axle shafts & diffs,
>automatic trans, locking diffs, etc.  A few months ago there was a new
>product listed that was a bolt on caliper mount for the drum axle on 110s
>and 90s (he also does a weld on mount).

He *does* do some interesting stuff!  I've focused mainly on his conversions
to mate the Land-Rover transfer case to various automatic gearboxes.
Locking diffs?  Wow, that's becoming quite the thing to get into these days!

Granny

------------------------------

From: "S. Vels" <svels@mail-server.dk-online.dk>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 19:55:05 +0001
Subject: Re: T-Shirt design

> For some strange reason your pages seem to be unaccesible right now..
 
> rgds,
 
> ---Ketil Kirkerud ("Lillebil" - 1979 109" Safari SW)

Hmm, you sent you mail at 18:27:26 and received it at about 19:00 and 
tested. Things worked fine.???.

Does it say that the requested url is not available or did it just 
not connect?.

I use Netscape to browse/test with. Don't know it that means 
anything.

If others have had problems, please drop me a mail. Thanks.

http://www2.dk-online.dk/users/Soren_Vels_Christensen/contrib.htm

is not valid, please use

http://www2.dk-online.dk/users/svels/contrib.htm

rgds
sv/aurens

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 14:06:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: King PTO winch question

On Fri, 9 Aug 1996, Granville Pool wrote:

> This question puzzles me some.  I know that there were several versions of
> these engine-driven Koenig winches but I thought all had a means of levering
> the drive out when not in use.  Certainly the one I had was so equipped.
>.
	Not mine.  When the dirveshaft is attached there is no way to pull
	the winch housing (or portion there of) forward, nor any bracketry
	to support the driveshaft if so disengaged.  Removed the 
	driveshaft when wear in the housing started to be visible.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 14:24:36 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Re: King PTO winch question

Dear All,
        I came in a bit late on this one, and am a bit confused. the Koenig
King winch for Land Rovers was model L 621 *SII and IIA*, L 721 *SIII*, LR
591, and LR 592, the 592 being the same as the 591 but with cables for
internal control.
        All models of the King I can find in my books are a standard PTO,
thus not making any difference in regards to their drive shaft. Once you
disengage the PTO lever inside the vehicle, the system is dead. No gain
would be made by removing the shaft, as only the PTO unit, L61 P.T.O.
itself may be adding extra drag *if any* to the system.

        Fill me in if I missed anything.

>>>don't
>>> think the power increase is worth the effort of shipping/unshipping the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>>       current configuration I can use all the extra power from the engine
>>       that I can get... :-))

See ya!

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com>
Subject: RE: Apology
Date: Fri, 09 Aug 96 13:59:00 CDT

I didn't know if it was a "rule" either, but after all the whining going   
on from advertisements, anything is possible.  I feel that if anyone has   
anything to post related to Land Rovers, regardless of it's contents, it   
should be posted.  This is, after all, a Land Rover list.  Isn't it?

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767

 --------------------------------------------------------------------------  
 ----

 ----------
> That rule is crap! If a person has a vehicle for sale, they should post
> it here!  If I am interested in buying a Land Rover, this is the first
> place where I would look.  Besides, where else would I go to buy a used
> Land Rover?  The local Land Rover dealer?  I think not.

I hope that I didn't imply that someone has complained because nobody   
has.  I
thought that I remembered this rule from a year or so ago.  I may   
(probably)
am
mistaken.  BTW there are some good sites to look for rovers including:

http://www.billwood.com/lr/

http://www.roversnorth.com/

http://www.kingsford-smith.co.uk/MG/rover/market.html

Cheers,

jc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 15:10:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: King PTO winch question

On Fri, 9 Aug 1996, Mike Smith wrote:

>         All models of the King I can find in my books are a standard PTO,
> thus not making any difference in regards to their drive shaft. Once you
> disengage the PTO lever inside the vehicle, the system is dead. No gain
> would be made by removing the shaft, as only the PTO unit, L61 P.T.O.
> itself may be adding extra drag *if any* to the system.

	PTO, yes, but from where is the power being taken...  Unless I
	am wrong, I thought discussion was over the front-crank driven
	models like mine.  There are cable controls that run into the
	cab with this model (option, actually two different types of
	this winch.  All that differs are the lengths of the handles on 
the winch)

>         Fill me in if I missed anything.

	There are two main types of the King winch, the version that
	runs off of a pto on the rear of the gearbox, the other where 
	the driveshaft goes from the front of the crank (remove starter
	dog, put a flat plate there and a different bolt, attach drive shaft)

	The crank driven models are the common ones up here.  Only can think
	of a pair of the PTO versions installed anywhere.

------------------------------

From: "Brian Cotton" <Brian.Cotton@lia.infolink.co.za>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 21:53:11 +0000
Subject: Ferry costs

Does anyone have info regarding the time and  COSTS of ferring a 109" 
from Ceuta (or closest) in Morocco to Gibraltar (Spain) ?

I can't find any info anywhere.

Please mail directly to me.

Brian Cotton
bcotton@lia.co.za

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 15:01:00 -5
Subject: koenig winches

Dixon forgot about the hydraulic version (not that I've actually seen 
one on a LR). The only way to get them now. All the older PTO 
versions can be converted.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Aug 1996 16:05:02 -0700
From: John Karlsson <karlsson@edgenet.net>
Subject: Re: Ferry costs

Brian Cotton wrote:

> Does anyone have info regarding the time and  COSTS of ferring a 109"
> from Ceuta (or closest) in Morocco to Gibraltar (Spain) ?

Brian,

One of my colleagues at work is from Morocco.  He says about US$80-90 (~800 Dirhan, or 
whatever he called that strange Moroccan money).

John Karlsson
Hope Valley, RI

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 16:01:45 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca>
Subject: Re: Better seating!!???

For those who are planning on building a cubby box for their Rovers, I 
just completed mine.  It is of the same black material as the deluxe 
seats and it has room for a stereo and the speakers.  I made the front 
face with a step wide enough for the stereo so it would face up towards 
me, and the top opens only about 4/5ths so that the lid doesn't hit the 
seats at the hinge.  The whole thing is the same side as the seat squab I 
removed, and it is high enough that I can rest my arm on it and hold the 
shift lever when I drive long distances.  Right now it has lots of stuff 
that used to be under the seat in it.  The speakers though not yet 
mounted, will face towards me and the passenger and have a black metal 
grill over them.  They are not too deep so they don't take up much room 
inside the box.  Finally, I hope to mount two gimbled cup holders like 
used on boats to put my glass in when I am driving.  Build one, it really 
is nice to finally have some room and a locking place to put the winch 
control etc. that doesn't require taking out the seat bottom to get at  
the tool box under the drivers seat.  
I also found some Ford door rubber that fits better than factory 
original.  I am lucky to have a friend who is a Ford mechanic and he gave 
me all I needed from vehicles in for repairs, but any wrecker should have 
it.  You have to slam the door a bit, but it sure seals once you slam it 
shut.  He also gave me some wide rubber from another Ford that will go 
along the bottom of the stationwagon door and will keep all the dust and 
water out.  It really seals tight.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 22:20:21 +0200
From: Defender@belgonet.be (Luc Rokegem)
Subject: re: buying from commercial dealers

When I bought my 110 from a dealer they have done everything to mask the
problems, they even painted the wheels rather than fixing the leaking
bearings.  A few months later I went to a local garage in Belgium to let 
them fix the gearbox : reverse gear was completely gone.  they managed to
work more than 70 hours to replace the layshaft and to fit my winch.
When I came on the road I had to bring my Landie back because the gearbox
leaked so much that you couldnt even fill it up whilst driving if that 
would be possible.  They managed to work another 3 days to fix the leak.
and... it still leaks.  Now I am much wisher (I think) and I am never
going to a garage anymore.  When there are things to be done that I can't 
do for myself, I take the boat and go to Great-Brittain  to a garage and 
work together with the mechanics on my own 110.  It's cheaper and you can 
watch wat they do and learn sommething interesting.  I agree completely with 
Fred Ellsworth that buying from an individual is much better : The only thing 
is that some people love there trusty Landie so much and spent so much money
on it, that nobody can't afford it anymore.  Like for myself, if I should
sell mine
I shoud ask more than it has cost new, so I will never part off it !   
 

            _______________    Luc Rokegem
           //   |          |   St-Pauwels (Belgie)
    ______//_ _ |          |#  defender@belgonet.be
    |   __            __   |#  http://www.belgonet.be/~bn000165/index.html
    |__/  \__________/  \__|  
       \__/          \__/      lawyers and Land-Rovers must be well greased

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 22:20:18 +0200
From: Defender@belgonet.be (Luc Rokegem)
Subject: Re: brake conversion

>Do they make a Salisbury rear with discs?

Yes they do, All the New defenders 90 and 110 have now rear disc brakes.
I am planning to fit the new ones tomorrow so I let you now how it worked
out.  I am looking forward to it !
 

            _______________    Luc Rokegem
           //   |          |   St-Pauwels (Belgie)
    ______//_ _ |          |#  defender@belgonet.be
    |   __            __   |#  http://www.belgonet.be/~bn000165/index.html
    |__/  \__________/  \__|  
       \__/          \__/      lawyers and Land-Rovers must be well greased

------------------------------

From: "William Dan Terry" <wterry@netpubsintl.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 15:21:50 +0000
Subject: Re. Series radio/speakers

I've got 6" (I think) round speakers with centered tweeter mounted in 
the IIA dash, one on each side by door. The fit perfectly. Drilled a 
few holes, put plastic backings to keep stuff in the dash from poking 
the cones.

I'm putting (not fully installed yet) the stereo on the back of the
center seat (109 mil). Access to the system for CD and radio changes
is with the seat back down. Can listen to the radio with the seat 
back up. And with the seat back up the stereo isn't visible from the 
outside. Theives can see the speakers, but may decide that the stereo 
they can't see in such a vehicle isn't worth the effort.

Happy Roving, William

______________W__i__l__l__i__a__m_____D__a__n_____T__e__r__r__y______________
  How do we acquire wisdom along with all these shiny things? (David Brin)

  wterry@netpubsintl.com
  http://www.netpubsintl.com/CyberJungle/CyberJungle.html
  Director of Technology, NetPubs International
  Software Designer - MINERVA Development Team, Booz, Allen & Hamilton

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 15:27:52 -0700
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Engine-driven Koenig winches

Dixon said:

>PTO, yes, but from where is the power being taken...  Unless I
>am wrong, I thought discussion was over the front-crank driven
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>this winch.  All that differs are the lengths of the handles on 
>the winch)

Ah, Dixon, I think I'll have to differ with you on this.  A couple years ago
I would have said the same thing.  But then I saw the Koenig engine-driven
winch that Vance Chin installed on his Series III 88.  It was quite
different from the one I had.  His sits essentially all above the bumper
(there are probably pictures of it on the Web somewhere).  The drive comes
through the PTO hole, straight from the crank.  Vance has a high-precision
machine shop (makes robotic telescopes) and is quite a bright and inventive
fellow.  He devise a modified drive set-up that has a drive-through
crank-starting arrangement similar to that on the Fairey capstan winch.

The one I had sat more behind the bumper and completely blocked the PTO
hole.  In fact, the PTO hole was welded shut from the back side to mount
part of the drive system.  There was a sliding spline dog that engaged a
flange on the crank.  The sliding mechanism was operated by a lever affair
that was mounted on some of the bolts which hold the timing cover onto the
front of the engine.  On this PTO-hole-blocking drive shaft, there was a
sprocket that drove an expose bicycle/motorcycle-type chain to another
sprocket on the right side, below the front cross-member, where it drove the
winch's gearbox.  All controlled, as you say, from in the cabin of the Rover.

Years back, I had another Koenig that was PTO driven from the transfer case,
very much like the Ramsey PTO winch that I have now (except it didn't have a
double-ender PTO like the one I now have).  The PTO box of mine dropped more
or less downward from the tansfer box and then forward by driveshaft to the
left side of the winch.  The winch itself, therefore, was essentially the
reverse of the engine-driven one I had (drive on the left instead of on the
right).

But I once saw another type of Koenig PTO winch set-up on a Series II 88
station wagon.  This winch was driven from its right side, like the
engine-driven one I had.  The PTO from the transfer case somehow crossed
over to the right side and had the driveshaft running along that side!  I
think it had a chain drive across from the PTO but don't exactly remember
now (it was about 15 years ago that I saw this one).  Supposedly it was a
standard modification done by a local dealer here (in Willits, CA, just to
the north of me) called Carbrey Motors.  Carbrey did a lot of V-8 engine
conversions (mostly Chevy V-8s, I think) and equipped some Rovers with wide
wheels back when about all you could get to fit them were airplane tyres.
Carbry was a very successful dealer from the very early days, in consequence
of which there are quite a few Series Is around this area.

Cheers,

Granny

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 15:49:07 -0700
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: All new pics

>Date: Fri, 09 Aug 1996 22:28:45 +0000
>From: Peter Bradley <pbrad@dial.pipex.com>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 24 lines)]
>back later, this is dashed off
>Pedro

I'm duly spreading the word, folks.  If you don't know what an Ibex is (the
vehicle, that is), you're in for a treat.  Definitely check out Page 4 of
the photo pages, the new just-off-the-press screaming yellow softtop Ibex
II.  Zounds!

I know I want one.  Well, maybe some day...

Granny

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 16:55:57 -0600
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Subject: Ottawa to Calgary, 16 miles apart

VORIZO and I are back on this list after a month's absence during which we
moved from Ottawa to Calgary.

I swear that driving my wife's Golf across North America was a lot less
wearing than the total 16 miles that VORIZO and I put in to, first; get
delivered to the rail shippers in Ottawa; and then today to be picked up at
the freight yards and driven across madhouse traffic through a city I barely
know, and all with dodgy brakes at that.

Despite having a year to get the beast into roadworthy shape it was only on
the day before we had to leave Ottawa that I was able to get it through the
roadsafety check in order that it could be licenced.

Normally, an Ontario Safety Check is a pretty serious affair, although not
nearly in the class as the British MOT.  It becomes even more serious when
you are trying to pass a 1959 SII that hasn't been roadworthy for perhaps
eight years.

Mightily did I toil for months getting the engine to run decently,
installing seat belts, and fighting with an electrical system that defied
for the longest time the best efforts of multimeters, schematics, reels of
new wire and boxes of fuses.  And then there were the brakes.  

One wheel hub was secured by only one of the required three screws, and of
course that one single screw was pressure welded to the hub.  One brake was
missing a spring and an anchor plate.  One wheel didn't have a bleed screw,
only a bolt cross threaded into the hole.  And oh yes, one of the brake
adjusters was missing.

But not to worry.  By using the services of the local university's ancient
languages department I was able to puzzle out some of the necessary
procedures from the shop manual.  "Proceed in a straightforward manner to
remove" indeed.  Much more valuable information came from back copies of the
OLVR newsletter, ( a must have), the Web pages, and of course I must say
with affection, this list.

So, on the penultimate day of the move, the very day the furniture was being
loaded into the van, I drove an unlicenced VORIZO to a nice little hole in a
corner garage run by an old time mechanic who vaguely remembered servicing
SII's.

Despite all the work, I hadn't been able to bleed the brakes properly.  I
had good pedal with very little settling when foot pressure was applied and
held, but during the illegal drive to the garage it became evident that
something still wasn't right.  I was having to pump the brakes two or three
times before I coule be sure that I wasn't going to bottom out on the floor.

Accordingly, I asked old Bob to see if he could set the brakes up before
doing the Safety, which he did. 

After an hour and no road test, Bob presented with a more than cheap bill of
50 dollars whereupon I expressed surprise and said, "Does that include the
Safety Check?"

"Oh right." he says, slapping his forehead.  Whereupon he pulls out the
official form and right then and there checks off all the little boxes to
certify the beast as road worthy, as in safe enough to drive through
crosswalks and past playgrounds, the local daycare, while other humans are
around, etc.

Not being a fool, I jumped straight into VORIZO, dashed off to the licencing
bureau and slapped on the new plates.

But then came the fun bit, the drive across Ottawa to the freight yards.  

It quickly became obvious that the brakes weren't any better and I developed
new muscles in my pumping leg.   My wife, who was following in the Golf,
said it looked like I was turning on the four way hazard flashers every time
I came to an intersection.

She also complained that I was way above the speed limit the whole time and
I had reached speeds of 90 Kmh in 70 zones etc.  I took this as a calumny
because I simply can't believe the beast can go that fast, however I really
can't provide evidence the other way since the speedometer swings so wildly
between 20Mph and 90Mph all the time.  I have better luck estimating speed
by throwing a wood chip out of the window and timing how long it takes to
disappear. 

During this drive I learned that unlike some Series Owners I won't freeze to
death when winter comes.

The original owner had been Shell Oil in Northern Alberta.  The company had
installed two powerful heaters.  Unfortunately, somewhere along the years,
the shutoff valves for the heaters have frozen open.  The exhaust pipe also
passes so closely to the footwell and transfers so much heat that I'm amazed
my shoes didn't melt.  This all became evident on one of those Ottawa days
when the Humidex was somewhere on the bad side of 40 degrees Celsius.  By
the end of that 20 minute drive I had to take in two notches of my belt and
wring out my clothes.

Halfway along this little trek across the steaming Congo I decided to top up
the tank, never having put more than a few litres at a time into it during
the reconstruction phase.

Only after gasoline started to seep into the soles of my shoes at the gas
station did I realize that there is probably a loose fitting somewhere
between the filling pipe and the tank.  Believe me I was nervous hitting the
starter to drive off that vicious little lake of explosive.  

And then, once I got going, I happened to glance at the fuel guage and
learned that there is yet one more thing to be put on the list for overhaul.
The guage is either stuck, or it has died, at the 1/8 tank mark.  (I'm still
trailing spilling gasoline at this point)

So now, let's skip forward a couple of weeks to our new house in Calgary.  A
house perched on the highest, steepest, hill in Christendom with a driveway
so steep that the 88 Calgary Winter Olympics could have used it for the ski
jumping venue.

The phone rings and the freightforwarders inform me that the beast is ready
for pick-up and despite all of the assurances in Ottawa they will not
deliver it either by flatbed or towtruck.

With more forboding than I've felt since the time Revenue Canada called me
in for a chat about my taxes I went out to the railyards clutching toolkit
and litres of brake fluid.

Subsequently, for the next eight miles through the twisted network of
highspeed highways that Calgarians quaintly call "trails" I pumped brakes
and sweated under the combined onslaught of out of control heaters, blasting
unshielded engine heat and nervous tension until I reached the mountain
range we live on.

Oh, what a terrible feeling it is to creep down hillsides when you really
have no more faith in your brakes than you do in your political leaders.  

Yet, it wasn't all irresponsibility.  The emergency brake works superbly and
I knew I could rely on it in a pinch, although it's a hell of a dive to the
floor for the handle.  As well, I know how to double clutch into first.
Neither was necessary.

In the end we sailed up the driveway and into the garage like a swallow
soaring into its cliff edge nest.

But wouldn't you know it.  Just as I'm standing next to beast in the garage,
about to brag to my wife about the fine reliability of our endless
restoration project, I hear a sudden loud hiss and about a litre of coolant
splashes onto the floor.  

I didn't have the heart to crawl under and see whether a hose had gone or
whether it was just overflow from the radiator.  It can keep for another
day.  It's enough just to have the old girl safe in her home.

			Rick Grant

rgrant@cadvision.com	1959, SII   "VORIZO"
Calgary, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 17:10:13 -0600
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Subject: Re: For your amusement, being Friday and all that...

Given the truly odd things we name our Series thingmies (Inuit word) I trust
this won't be too off topic, but if you are interested in the BOB campaign
check out the following: 

http://www.ssimicro.com/votebob/

http://www.nunanet.com/~nunat/60726.html#1

http://www.nunanet.com/~nunat/60719.html#60

There are still a few LR's, or thingmies, running around the NWT (perhaps
soon to be BOB)

			Rick Grant

rgrant@cadvision.com	1959, SII   "VORIZO"
Calgary, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 17:15:55 -0600
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Subject: Re: Re. Series radio/speakers

At 03:21 PM 09/08/96 +0000, William Dan Terry, wrote

>I'm putting (not fully installed yet) the stereo on the back of the
>center seat (109 mil). Access to the system for CD and radio changes
>is with the seat back down. Can listen to the radio with the seat 
>back up.

That's a good idea but you must have a better radio than I have.  I run out
of volume control travel somewhere about mid-range fourth gear.  I've been
in quieter radial engine aircraft.

			Rick Grant

rgrant@cadvision.com	1959, SII   "VORIZO"
Calgary, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 10:05:33 +1000
From: paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul Nash)
Subject: T-Shirts

I've no particular preference, but I'll be in for four or so.  I'm
temporarily in Austraila, and if the shirts are made in SA, I'll be quite
happy to organise the order from here (I can send a cheque in Rands from my
SA bank account more easily than trying to get a draft in Rands from a bank
here).  I'm also quite happy to do the re-distribution.

I won't volunteer for the same job for the US/UK, 'cos getting funds there
from SA is a pain in the butt (especially as I'm here for another year or
so).

Nice page, Brian.  Call in at the South Luangwa game park on your way up
through Zambia -- it's a beautiful place. There's a nice (but slow) road
from Petauke to the Luangwe (it's on the Michelin map) that'll take all
day, but well worth it.  When we travelled it, there were lots of giraffe
wandering over the road (this is outside the park, not that you can really
tell the difference).  Just be careful over the first section -- I broke
both front springs on my sIII there a few years back.  They were replaced
by Mr Herod Mutinta of Petauke engineering (we were on our way back), who
spent all night under the Land Rover with me, but refused to work on a new
80-series Canned Loser that some aid agency employee was having trouble
with (one of the beauties of Land Rovers is that everyone in Africa has
parts and knows how to work on them).

Also remember to take empty beer bottles with you -- you can't buy beer in
rural Zambia without empties, and the deposit is about twice as much as the
beer.  If you feel like a bit of a breather, nip across the border into
Malawi & spend a few days (or weeks) at Cape Maclear.  Stevens' has gone
downhill, but Golden Sands is absolutely wonderful, and well worth the
couple of extra Kwacha per day.  Alternatively, head North via Zimbabwe ->
Tete (safe as houses when we were there, in spite of the scare stories) ->
Malawi -> Zambia.  You'll miss Lusaka, but there's nothing much to see
there anyway.  If you do go this way, spend a night on Zomba plateau, as
the view is breathtaking.

I really envy you the trip, and I'm sure that you will enjoy it!  I'm
thinking of driving back from Australia, and coming down the other way
(East Coast), but this is still a vague thought at this stage.

        paul
--
Paul Nash                                South African in exile
37 Tyson St, Ainslie, ACT 2602, Australia
Tel: +61 41 9416655

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 21:29:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: Re: Copy of: It's good to be back

I just installed two new doortops from BP. They were cheap and just like
the originals

Chris Stevens
Towson, MD

'69 SRIIA 88" SW

>Current problem - I need to replace my right front door top.  The mother
>scratcher is rotted and will not stand up to my new weather stripping.  Where
>can I get one without buying a new one.  I need other parts but that's another
>posting.  I'm also looking for a 109 to make into a campmobile (don't tell me
>wife).

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 21:37:15 -0400
Subject: what'd ya call a bunch of LR's...

I refer to our collection of series vehicles as a 'quandry' of Land Rovers.
At the risk of being flamed, maybe a grouping of newer Rovers should be
called a 'showroom'?
off to Maine...
see 'ya on the old road...
Jim '61 LR 88" SW  w/ 16's, OD 1 Bbl weber (econobox?)  "Nicky"
LR...quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised!  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 21:32:04 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: Re: Waxoyl bulkhead thread, gearbox rem thread

On Fri, 09 Aug 1996, Ross <fax.rescue@hunterlink.net.au> wrote:

 Also the rusty bulkhead thread: 
>Pull it and dip it!! 
>Cheers all.Ross.
Thanks Ross, but there is no dipping facility in the region. I have to get in 
there bit by bit. 
Allan

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 03:09:03 -0500 (CDT)
From: Mark Perry <rxq281@freenet.mb.ca>
Subject: collective-no landrovers

Lloyd Allison goes tangential: Was that some sort of pommie joke?

Back to LRs: A Ser1 107 SW, claimed to be in "all original, drives 
excellent" condition has appeared for sale in the western reaches of this 
province. I am under the impression the "meccano set" wagon is one of the 
rarer models (56-58 production only), and am wondering how this one (it 
looks not bad in the photo 
ad) rates a a "collectors item" (that ownership experience thing again) 
and what sort of $$ a driveable 107 might be expected to fetch (no asking 
price in ad) Or is a 107 a bad bet (sorry Peter in Vienna) in general?
The ugly-duckling charm is undeniable.

Regards,

Mark Perry   Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
1966 Ser.IIA 88 Petrol Hardtop: Daily driver
"It's noisier on the inside"

------------------------------

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