Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 14:45:35 -0400
From: cmw@tiac.net (cmw)
Subject: 2.6 fun

Well, I got the head off my engine this a.m. really not to tough at all.
Did find that the therostat housing to water pump fitting is/was broken -not
sure how serious this is, as I'm sure I could seal the junction back up with
the normal gasket + some blue gook and both halves look *really* stuck where
they are.  Any related experiences out there?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 Christopher Weinbeck       Office Logic, Inc.      V (508) 392-0288
   _______                  7 Littleton Road        F (508) 692-0897   
  |__][_[_\__               Westford, MA 01886            
  |___\_|_]__]             
    (o)    (o)  '69 109" RHD OD 2.6 Dormobile                 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 09:31:41 +1100
From: m.belik@uws.EDU.AU (Miroslav Belik)

get lro-digest <960808>
Miroslav Belik                    Email: M.Belik@UWS.EDU.AU        
UWS, Macarthur               Phone: 018-028-708 or 61 2 823 9445
P.O. Box 555                     FAX:   61 46 203025              
Campbelltown, 2560                                                             
NSW      
Australia.
         

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 22:09:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Free-wheel hubs

Joining the search for the truth about the number of splines on axle ends
Mike adds:

>Ten spline up to a certain date,twenty four thereafter.But dont ask
>me *what* date...My '70 11A 88"is a 10 spline jobby.
>Mike Rooth

According to the reliable(?) parts books:
SII & SIIA 88" & 109"  10 spline
SIII 88" to July 1980  10 spline
SIII 88" after July 1980 24 spline
SIII 109" 24 spline
Above are for civilian LRs, don't know what was delivered to MOD. Would guess
that SII & SIIA military were 10 spline.

David Cockey
Rochester, Michigan 

------------------------------

From: EvanD103@aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 07:37:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Remote Breathers for Axle Housing

Does anyone have remote breathers on their Series trucks axles?  I question
where they should should be routed.  The front breather has a 22" plastic
hose that appears to go straight up, the rear has a 50" hose on a banjo
fitting, suggesting it runs along the top of the axle before going up into
the rear bodywork.  No instructions came with the parts (#595396, #595473),
Rovers North made it sound intuitively obvious.  I remember that phrase as
being used by my college math prof years ago, followed by "the proof will be
left as an exercise for the student".  I don't need an exercise in futility
as I try to determine the best way and place to route these hoses if someone
has already done this, so please let me know.  Thanks
Erik van Dyck
Stone Mountain, Georgia
'73 Series III  88"

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  8 Aug 96  6:37:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Window Channels

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 12:14:45 +0100 (BST)
From: "T.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: rustproofing bulkheads

>Has anyone attempted rustproofing the inside of a bulkhead while the rest
of the 
>vehicle is still attached to it? In this climate it will most definitely rust 
>from the inside out. There is a drain hole at the bottom of the door 
>post that could be widened to get a tube with sprayer nozzle all the way up
the 
>post, but what about the top hollow sections, above and below the vents? Two 

Allan
I find it easier to take out one of philips head screws holding the hinges
onto the bulkhead and squirt wax in that way rather than from the bottom of
the leg. As for the top hollow sections and the windscreen frame,  I don't
think there is an easy way in without drilling some discreet holes...
 

 Tom
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Thomas D.I. Stevenson                          gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
SNL Mussel Fouling Project
University Marine Biological Station,      Tel 01475 530581
Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland.       Fax 01475 530601
-----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 10:28:18 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Re: brake conversion

>Is it a straight fit to replace the rear drum brakes for original Landrover
>disk brakes on a salisbury axle from a 110 ?

        Depends on what you mean by straight fit. If you are looking for a
no modification bolt up, it isn't. The drum brake axle housing does not
have the caliper mounting points, etc. A good welder could install these,
but it isn't a bolt up. Also you'll have to look into brake reduction
valves as found on the 4 wheel disc systems and plumb that into the rear
system, as well as new brake pipes, etc.
        Have fun.

        Do they make a Salisbury rear with discs? I haven't seen one. I
know the US D110's had drum rears. Anyone in the UK seen a Salisbury with
rear disc?
        See ya.

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

From: sjak.r.haaheim@vg.no

------------------------------

From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 11:51:18 -0500
Subject: Re:  Suspension Woes

Hey, glad you took the plunge with the IIa! You'll soon be discovering all
sorts of hidden mechanical ability (or, failing that, hopefully discovering
hidden money...).

Anyhow, I was pretty much in the same boat when I bought mine, not being a
spanner head or anything (UK equiv. of a rachet head or motor head). Do plan
on buying a book, at least the haynes manual, that will help a lot, and
you always got us. And don't be afraid of it, they have to be close to the
simplist motor vehicle I've ever seen.

Ok, your suspension.

Springs actually do the work of the suspension, and shocks keep spring 
travel to a minimum (oversimplification). Easiest way to tell if the 
springs are shot is to measure the distance between the top of the axle
to the bottom of the bump stop. The bump stop is a block of rubber attached
to the bottom side of the frame to keep the axle slamming into steel. Mine
were missing when I bought it, but I've since replaced them as well as the
rest of the suspension. I don't have dimensions, but they're in the book
or someone at BP or RN or here should know...

If you end up replacing the springs, and I'm guessing you will, you'll
want to do the eight frame bushings as well (the springs will have new
bushes in them. *That* is going to be that hard part. My preferred method
is the one in the tips sections of the RoverWeb page, an air chisel and 
socket. Might need new shackles, too, relativly cheap, and new bolts and
nuts. Maybe if you talk nice to the guys at British Pacific they'll cut 
you a deal on the whole package. BP has oem springs for about $25 cheaper
each than genuine, I have a set on the rear of my 88 and am very satisifed.

The job of changing it all is not complicated at all, and with the bushings
might take the whole weekend, but not much more, especially if you got a 
friend who works for beer. :-)

Good luck

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

Date: 08 Aug 96 22:26:55 EDT
From: Steve Rochna <75347.452@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Dooohhh!

Sorry 'bout the repeats.  -  Steve

(a public service brought to you by the Department of Redundancy Department. )

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 08:54:57 -5
Subject: Re: LroShop web site

LRO Shop writes:
snip
> 	remains with idirect, our service provider. When accepted
> 	secure software does exist in a cost effective package we shall of
> course install it.  The current secure servers are very
> 	expensive and complicated at this time.

I'm forwarding them the phone number of a souce for a secure package 
priced at about $1100.
 

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Brian Cotton" <Brian.Cotton@lia.infolink.co.za>
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 21:22:08 +0000
Subject: Lots  o' Landies

How about these:

A LEGION OF LAND ROVERS

or

A LA(A)GER OF LAND ROVERS

LAGER as in Beer
LAAGER  as in a circle of wagons or park for armoured vehicles .

------------------------------

From: "Brian Cotton" <Brian.Cotton@lia.infolink.co.za>
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 21:22:08 +0000
Subject: Double sided T-Shirt

On Wed, 7 Aug 1996, Brian Cotton wrote:

> I've taken note of some suggestions on my design,

> Well, the European and African LRO members will like the globe... :-)
 > Almost need three designs, one with Oz centred, EU/Africa, and NA/SA
 >centred...

I was waiting for that  . . . 

If you flip the picture you will see the other side of the globe.  ;-)

Actually, what if we make one print on ach side of the T-Shirt ?
Europe/Africa on one side and the Americas on the other ???

Cheers
Brian - - Cotton

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 14:45:24 -0400
From: cmw@tiac.net (cmw)
Subject: LRO shop #?

I hate to be the one who *asks* for advertising on the list, but for
goodness sake would the LRO Book Shop please start putting a phone number in
their messages!!!  Not much that's more aggravating than someone soliciting
calls without providing a #.  (yeah, yeah there's whitworth bolts, and
swivel ball bolts, spring bushings and customers that don't pay...)

I vote for clatter, and while moving from puddle to pool thought also of 'a
whole slick worth of Rovers'.

Retreating to pull the head off my 2.6 in search of worn wrist pin bushings,
prayers appreciated -Still looking for a wardrobe for my truck, speaking of
prayers.

Chris
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 Christopher Weinbeck       Office Logic, Inc.      V (508) 392-0288
   _______                  7 Littleton Road        F (508) 692-0897   
  |__][_[_\__               Westford, MA 01886            
  |___\_|_]__]             
    (o)    (o)  '69 109" RHD OD 2.6 Dormobile                 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: 08 Aug 96 22:17:24 EDT
From: Steve Rochna <75347.452@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Copy of: It's good to be back

---------- Forwarded Message ----------

From:	Steve Rochna, 75347,452
TO:	lro digest, 
DATE:	8/4/96 10:02 PM

RE:	Copy of: It's good to be back

All:

My thanks to those who sent support.

I'v been away for awhile and when I got back it seems that the clutch on the old
sIII was rusted to the point where it wouldn't disengage, damn thing.  My wife
was driving it every 2-3 weeks and wrote me that she could not get the thing
into gear at idle.  Good thing she starts cars in neutral.  Anyway,  I called
Sandy Grice and Rovers North for advice and both methods failed.  I wound up
taking off the tranny and prying the clutch plate from the flywheel with (sorry)
a screwdriver.  That mother was stuck!  Since I was in there I replaced my sandy
sounding throw-out bearing.  I was back on the road with black nails within 48
hours.  Damn, It's good to be back under my rover!

Current problem - I need to replace my right front door top.  The mother
scratcher is rotted and will not stand up to my new weather stripping.  Where
can I get one without buying a new one.  I need other parts but that's another
posting.  I'm also looking for a 109 to make into a campmobile (don't tell me
wife).

Thanks again for the support.

see ya.     Steve Rochna
                  (Nobody never said you had to be smart to fly!)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 10:56:39 -0100
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Subject: Seats and Sounds

I put a hundred dollars worth of sound-deadener in the floor of Baby and
now I can hear the turn signal clicker when the engine is idling! When I
discovered that a shortwave car radio costs $700, I hung my Radio Shack
portable in a leather sling on the dash. For cup holder I bought a plastic
thingy at Pep Boys. Now I am looking for a more permanent installation for
the radio. Thinking of replacing the middle seat with a thingy that can
hold my phone as well. Right now, all my accessories run from the emergency
plugs in the dash.

Honest, officer, I couldn't see the speedometer for all the stuff on the dash!
60 miles per hour? Never!

It worked once.

Has anyone tried those Welsh foam headliners with the speaker insets? I
understand they can be imported quickly and cheaply into the US but have
heard nothing about the quality. Sounds too good to be true, methinks. Put
the speakers within a few inches of your ears.  Get to like Bartok.

Regards,

Ned Heite

P O Box 53
Camden, Delaware 19934 USA

_______
|___|__\_==    Heite Consulting
| _ |  | --]   archaeologists and Historians
=(O)-----(O)=  "Baby" short wheelbase Land Rover IIA 1969, 2.25 liter petrol
""""""""""""""""

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 19:30:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Wheel bearings

No, wait! I *meant* the inner race, which is the outboard part of the inboard
bearingxxNever mindx had my knee restrung recently. It must be the percodans.
Cheers!! John"I cant work on anything right now, anyway, no extra hands to
hold tools!" Dillingham

------------------------------

Date: 08 Aug 96 22:18:06 EDT
From: Steve Rochna <75347.452@compuserve.com>
Subject: Copy of: It's good to be back

---------- Forwarded Message ----------

From:	Steve Rochna, 75347,452
TO:	lro digest, internet:majordomo@land-rover.team.net
DATE:	8/4/96 10:02 PM

RE:	Copy of: It's good to be back

All:

My thanks to those who sent support.

I'v been away for awhile and when I got back it seems that the clutch on the old
sIII was rusted to the point where it wouldn't disengage, damn thing.  My wife
was driving it every 2-3 weeks and wrote me that she could not get the thing
into gear at idle.  Good thing she starts cars in neutral.  Anyway,  I called
Sandy Grice and Rovers North for advice and both methods failed.  I wound up
taking off the tranny and prying the clutch plate from the flywheel with (sorry)
a screwdriver.  That mother was stuck!  Since I was in there I replaced my sandy
sounding throw-out bearing.  I was back on the road with black nails within 48
hours.  Damn, It's good to be back under my rover!

Current problem - I need to replace my right front door top.  The mother
scratcher is rotted and will not stand up to my new weather stripping.  Where
can I get one without buying a new one.  I need other parts but that's another
posting.  I'm also looking for a 109 to make into a campmobile (don't tell me
wife).

Thanks again for the support.

see ya.     Steve Rochna
                  (Nobody never said you had to be smart to fly!)

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 22:14:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Capstan trouble (Winch Types)

Jens lost some parts for his capstan winch::
- Itīs a civil capstan so military partnumbers 
-wonīt help. I need a source or partnumber for:
-
-     the small propshaft (it has rounded teeth on both ends)
-     the moveable engage/disengage part ( connects winch to camshaft)
-
-Because the civil type is very rare, especially in germany, itīs not easy to

-find spares.

I'm aware of two different capstan winches used on Series LRs, but have never
heard them refered to as "military" and "civilian". The early style is
identified by the cast ends on the rope guide which mount on top of the
bumper. The drive shafts have splines. The latter style has simple bent steel
angle ends on the rope guide which bolt to the winch base. It has a
completely different drive arrangement with a "Hooke" type u-joint and a
square section.

It sounds like Jens' winch is an early type, for which parts are indeed
difficult to find.

David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 08:37:15 -1000 (HST)
From: Wayne Haight <whaight@honlab.nmfs.hawaii.edu>
Subject: King PTO winch question

Aloha!

A couple of questions...

I recently bought a 1970 Series IIa 88 that has a King PTO Winch (Model 
LR-591) from Koenig Iron Works. The front oil seal (part # LR52-R35) 
needs to be replaced. Does anyone know of a source for parts for these 
winches? Also the winch is powered with a drive shaft directly from the 
front of the engine, so when the engine is running, the shaft is always 
turning; should this driveshaft be disconnected for street driving, and only 
connected when I plan to go off-road?

My pardons if this has been discussed before... I'm relatively new to 
this list and to Land-Rovering (just bought my Series IIA last week!).

Mahalo nui loa!

-wayne

Wayne Haight (whaight@honlab.nmfs.hawaii.edu)
Senior Fisheries Research Specialist
Joint Institute for Marine and Atmospheric Research
NOAA/NMFS 
2570 Dole Street
Honolulu, Hawaii 96822

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Aug 1996 09:19:33 +1100
From: Ross <fax.rescue@hunterlink.net.au>
Subject: Re: T shirt order. (australia)

Another T shirt order . 2 xl please.

> You just got an order from Oz! Alan Logue.

To Alan Logue: are you receiving email from me? 
have you subscribed to the mil-veh list?
Ross 
'Castrol' http://users.hunterlink.net.au/~derf/swb/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Aug 1996 09:40:16 +1100
From: Ross <fax.rescue@hunterlink.net.au>
Subject: Waxoyl bulkhead thread, gearbox rem thread

I loved the horse head thread last week. v funny. More 
humour content was in the thread about a 'plural' term 
for Land-Rovers (my vote goes to "heap of 
Land-Rovers")and now the scenario for g'box removal 
thru the interior. I can have a superior like smirk on 
my face 'cause 'Castrol' has the army removable 
cross-member mod: hoist the vehicle (after cleaning) 
and unbolt the thing. Also the rusty bulkhead thread: 
Pull it and dip it!! 
Cheers all.Ross.
ATLANTA OLYMPICS: opinions For Sale here!
'Castrol' 64 swb ckd ex-army regular
http://users.hunterlink.net.au/~derf/swb/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 08:47:16 -0400
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@InterLinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: Suspension Woes

At 21:58 96-08-07 -0700, Christopher wrote:

snip

Thus, it seems to me that if the
>problem is that I'm getting hard bumps when I go over rough roads, then
>perhaps I need new springs.  

The ride is always bumpy in a Series Landie, new springs or not. 

 Two bits of data:  when I jump up and down
>on the front bumper, the front end doesn't move very much at all (I
>weigh/mass 170lbs/80Kg, respectively), and it seems like it should.  

Mine doesn't move at all, and the springs are only two years old. The ride
would be stiffer if you have 109 springs instead of 88 springs. The 109
springs have 11 leaves while the 88 has 9. Crawl under the Rover (You'll get
used to that) and count the number of leaves. 

  Also, the springs are not very bowed at all.  In
>fact, they are almost straight.

That is a sign of fatigue. You are probably in for a new set of springs. 
If you find that even with the new springs the ride is too stiff, you can
always remove some of the leaves. A friend of mine over here in the
Townships has only three leaves on the front and it drives surprinsigly well.

Hope this helps, 

Michel

Michel Bertrand

Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada, 

1963 109 PU (Rudolph)
1968 109 SW (in the works)
1973 88 SW (21st century project)

mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca <<---- Note new address!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 11:09:37 -0500
From: Fred Ellsworth <fellswor@camb-lads.loral.com>
Subject: re: buying from commercial dealers

Someone mentioned the other day that they wanted to buy a LR from a company
rather than an individual in order to guarantee the quality of the vehicle.
Personally, I'd prefer to buy from an individual who cared about the
vehicle.

When I bought my rover (a '71 IIA 88") the PO had just had $12,000+ worth
of parts/labor done at Rover's North (and no, I didn't pay **anything
near** half that).  I have run across so much lame craftsmanship I can't
believe it, especially considering RNs reputaion for quality.  The latest
was yesterday when I went to put in a new head gasket.  I popped off the
head only to discover they had used a faulty head gasket in assembling the
engine.  It had no holes for three of the coolant passages!!  The fourth
coolant passage was blocked by a large chunk of Blue Goo!!  Ignoring the
idiocy of the head gasket, using Blue Goo in assembling a supposedly
"factory" quality long block is just plain cheap.  At least now I've
probably solved my intermittent "coughing" problem on the freeway - I
imagine it was poor valves getting so hot they began sticking.  Hopefully
driving around for 4 years with basically no circulation in the head hasn't
caused _too much_ damage and I can still get a few good years out of it.

My point is that buying from a company rather than an individual in no way
guarantees that the vehicle you are buying is a sound one.  Quality takes
time, time is money, and companies exist to make money- not waste it on the
"little" things that really make the difference between ok work and great
work.

Just my $.02.

Fred

"If you want it done right, do it yourself- or at least have a beer and
watch."

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 10:17:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Window Channels

> problem now is how to get the old ones out and the new ones in.  I looked
> through the books I have (Repair Operations, and Handybook), but see nothing

	Drill out the screws holding them in.  

>         So, if any of you have suggestions, I'd be quite grateful.  Also, if
> you can recommend any book on LR restoration, I'd be furthur obliged.

	Myself... Have not found a decent restoration book yet.  Best 
	source is either the net, on in my case all the chaps in OVLR 
	around here in Ottawa.

	Rgds,

	Dixon

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Aug 96 21:42 EST
From: jhaskell@iquest.net (Jon R. Haskell)
Subject: Ferry Service around Darien

Hope this is not construed as a commercial endorsement and appropriate for
this group!

Several weeks ago I put out an inquiry requesting information on auto ferry
service around Darien. John Huebner shared the following information with me
and I thought I would share it with the group should you be rovering to the
south:

Jon-
Here's a little more info on the Crucero Express.

The boat was shut down for repairs when we arrived in Panama, so we had to
wait two weeks for it to resume service.  The cost was less than stated in
"lonely planet".  It's about $120 per person and $25 per vehicle.  They sail
from Colon on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, leaving at 7PM and arriving
in Cartegena the next day at noon.  The boat is very comfortable with nice
cabins, dining area, bars (drinks, dinner, and breakfast are included!),
casino, and pool/jacuzzi.

Rumor has it that the boat is running at a loss as it hasn't become as
popular as anticipated.  It was only about half full when we rode, only eight
passenger cars.  I don't know if that means it won't be in business for long.

Hope this info helps you with your travels.

John.       <JHuebner@aol.com>

ps- I was very impressed with Cartegena.  It's a beautiful spanish colonial
city.

"Happy Trails"

Jon Haskell, KB9CML
Indianapolis, IN 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 16:22:13 -0500 (CDT)
From: Mark Perry <rxq281@freenet.mb.ca>
Subject: collectives and hypens

How about a clutch of Land Rovers?
Or a bodge of Land Rovers
Or a gripe of Land Rovers?

Also note use of Canadian Press style for "make of four-wheel-drive 
vehicle" - no hyphen. Didn't Solihull drop the hyphen around the time 
they introduced unhyphenated Range Rover, for marque consistency?

Then again, Canadian Press spells toque, "tuque" when they mean a knitted 
wool cap. Thye're right (by OED), but they're also wrong (by most 
Canadians) on that one.

Cheers,

 Mark Perry   
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada 1966 Ser.IIA 88 Petrol Hardtop: Daily driver
"It's noisier on the inside"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 20:01:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: Re: Window Channels

Check out the latest issue of Land Rover Owner International. Good article
on replacing them.

Chris
>        So, if any of you have suggestions, I'd be quite grateful.  Also, if
>you can recommend any book on LR restoration, I'd be furthur obliged.

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Better seating!!??? 
Date: Thu, 08 Aug 1996 08:38:34 -0700
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@ridgecrest.ca.us>

In message <bulk.10465.19960807220438@Land-Rover.Team.Net>you write:
>         BTW, what's wrong with the 'Deluxe' seats?  I'm assuming that
> they'll be better than the originals in my IIA.  

	The Land-Rover Deluxe seats are not much better than the origionals.

Ben
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Benjamin Smith----------bens@ridgecrest.ca.us----------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

Subject: Re: OD Layshaft removal 
Date: Thu, 08 Aug 1996 08:35:02 -0700
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@ridgecrest.ca.us>

In message <bulk.9200.19960807185836@Land-Rover.Team.Net>you write:
> So exactly how does one get the layshaft
> out of an OD casing?  I have been staring
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> hole and make some kind of shaft puller.  Or
> haul out the gas wrench.....

	The suggestion in an article I read is to tap the lathe center hole 
and pull it out by hand.   In theory it is running on needle bearing and 
should come out easily.  On mine I had to drill a hole on the other side of
the case and press it out with a 10 ton press.  Needless to say the bearings
were already destroyed and the layshaft had been severely scored (which is
why I couldn't pull it by hand).  So the OD was replaced.

Ben
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Benjamin Smith----------bens@ridgecrest.ca.us----------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Aug 96 10:30:05 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: The vinyl frontier...

I was wondering if anyone knows of a source for the original grey 
'elephant scrotum' vinyl that was used in the S2A. It sure would be keen 
to have a roll of this to redo the fascinating interior of the 109. 
Preference for material that is not 30 years old.
"As you sew, so shall you reek", or something like that.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Aug 96 10:20:16 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Suspension Woes

Who among us has not experienced this phenomenon?
By your description, I'd venture a guess that the springs are shot. If 
they're flat as you say, they probably aren't doing much.
I would not recommend you try to replace them yourself if you are a 
novice, as it can be a troublesome and dangerous chore. Be sure to 
replace the rubber bushings and shackle bolts at the same time. The new 
polyurethane type of bushings are well worth the extra money.
You will also need new U-bolts.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Aug 1996 10:08:52 -0400
From: Ernest Young <ernyoung@earthlink.net>
Subject: past Ghost in the machine

A while back someone posted about an intermittent brake problem. If I
can remember correctly the brakes on their rover would work great and
then as if for no reason they would be very weak.
	For a few weeks I was having a similar problem with my wifes Mercedes
300TD wagon. The brakes would be fine untill the car warmed up, and then
the power assist went on vacation requiring me to stand on the pedal in
order to stop. If anyone out there needs a little stress in thier lifes
I recomend driving a car with brakes that come and go...Anyway I
attributed the problem to a vacuum problem as the car idled lower when
it was warm. I readjusted the idle to compensate but the problem was
still there...sometimes. Finally I brought the car in to our local
german mechanic for a troubleshoot and diagnosis. They told me to
replace the boost cannister for the brakes (this supplies the power
assist). I salvaged one from a Mercedes paperweight I keep for such
purposes, but when I pulled the boost from the 300td it was filled with
engine oil. Seems the vacuum pumps diaphram had been comprimised
allowing engine oil into the vacuum lines thus fowling the brake booster
with oil and possibly not creating enough vacuum. So I've got a lovely
oily mess to deal with so I had better finish my coffee and get back to
work...

good luck all

Ernie Young
Providence RI
90 RR County
79 MB 300TD
69 Triumph Trophy 250
assorted paperweights

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Aug 1996 09:09:52 -0400
From: Ernest Young <ernyoung@earthlink.net>
Subject: T-Shirt Designs

>I've taken note of some suggestions on my design,

have a look at my page during the next few days (Thur, Fri, Sat),   
I'll
put some more variations up.

"Brain's African Travel Guide"
http://www.lia.co.za/users/bcotton

Cheers
Brian Cotton<

Nice design, and a very nice page...Good luck on your expedition..
 Maybe in place of the globe you could place an image of the whole world
like the map at http://pubweb.parc.xerox.com/map and how about the coil
sprung landies? just cause we have a/c doesn't mean we don't want
tishirts...Put me down for 2 XXL shirts

Ernie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 08:35:21 -0700
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: That's it! (Was Re: Collective for Land Rovers)

The estimable Peter Gronous of Surrey said:

>After much deep thought and consideration I have decided the collective for a
>group of Land Rovers is "A Lode of Land Rovers". The Lode either refers to Lode
>Lane or as in gold.

I don't see how we can top that.  That's what I'll call 'em from now on
(although I'll have to call that bunch out my window a "Rabble of Rovers" as
they aren't much of a lode, really).

Granville Pool
Redwood Valley, CA USA
'73 Series III 88 and a rabble of other SWB Land-Rovers

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 09:18:41 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Re: Window-channels

You wrote: 

>        That answers my channel question, but brings up another.  How do I
>get the glass out before going to town on the rivets (which BTW, are actual
>rivets in mine--not rust rivets--is that normal?).
>C

Odd.  Unless lightweights are peculiar (your's is the lightweight isn't it?) there 
shouldn't be actual rivets in the channels.  I imagine your windows have a bumpy ride 
along the channels.  If they've been added later you're definitely looking at redrilling 
new screw holes since the existing ones will now be too large to fit a decently small 
headed screw.

As I recall you don't get the glass out before.  It is removed and installed laying in 
the channels  (this memory is biased by recent work on the rear side windows on my 109 
though).

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: "Lee Zeltzer (ISD)" <lzeltzer@isdnet.com>
Subject: RE: LroShop web site
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 20:02:13 -0700

I missed the first email. but if you are looking for a secure server and =
soon automatic credit card authorization perhaps we should be your isp! =
ISD is pretty good on secure transaction services at reasonable prices.

----------
From: 	Tom Rowe[SMTP:trowe@aae.wisc.edu]
Sent: 	Thursday, August 08, 1996 1:54 AM
Subject: 	Re: LroShop web site

LRO Shop writes:
snip
> 	remains with idirect, our service provider. When accepted
> 	secure software does exist in a cost effective package we shall of
> course install it.  The current secure servers are very
> 	expensive and complicated at this time.

I'm forwarding them the phone number of a souce for a secure package
priced at about $1100.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research   
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578       
trowe@aae.wisc.edu               

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Aug 1996 22:26:06 -0700
From: John Karlsson <karlsson@edgenet.net>
Subject: Re: Better seating!!???

Christopher H. Dow wrote:

.> >"good for the posture." I suppose we'll next be hearing about stereo
.> >systems for leaf-sprung machines!
.> [8<]
.> >Ned Heite

.>      Too, late.  Look at the bit on the RoverWeb about Jeff Berg's 
IIA.
.> I'll soon be doing my solution--a Tuffy box which can hold a stereo in 
lieu
.> of the middle seat.  I still haven't figured out where to put the 
speakers,
.> though.  Takes conversion to negative earth, too.   Only problem may 
be
.> getting an amplifier to make the stereo louder than the transmission.

_Way_ too late!  I put a (cheap) stereo in my SWB IIA back in the early 
'70s.  I suspended from the roof behind the rear view mirror.  I kept the 
original positive earth system by simply insulating the equipment from 
the car and supplying positive and negative leads as required.  Worked 
fine until some fiend ripped it out by the roots, leaving nasty holes in 
my roof.  I plan to do this trick again now that I'm restoring, but I 
can't remember if I also insulated the antenna.  It's tough getting old. 
 Well, not really.  You just have to get born early!

John Karlsson
Hope Valley, RI

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Aug 1996 22:36:23 -0700
From: John Karlsson <karlsson@edgenet.net>
Subject: Re: T-shirts (Summary)

Allan Smith wrote:
 
>Thanks to the two biologists who responded positively to that one.

Make that three.  I didn't see at first who posted it, but I thought to 
myself that it must be from another marine biologist on the list.  But 
you said you had two replies.  I know of at least one other marine 
biologist on the list, but how many of us are there here?

John Karlsson
Hope Valley, RI

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 19:02:21 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Mid-Atlantic Land Rover Rally

Just got the flyers/reservation forms back from the printers.  If 
interested, drop me your snail-mail address and I will post one out.  If you 
are a ROAV member or have attended the rally before, the form should be in 
your mailbox early next week.

Now the particulars...the Mid-Atlantic Land-Rover Rally is to be held the 
weekend of October 4-6 at Penlan Farm in Buckingham County, Virginia.  
Buckingham is the geographic center of Virginia, and the site is about seven 
miles south of the US Rt. 15 bridge over the James River.  We are expecting 
150+ Rovers.

There will be the usual fun and games plus a few surprises.  We have built a 
trials course on-site for the "Aluminium Man Triathlon".  Though there is 
plenty of room for camping, if you must have a roof over your head, inns and 
B&B places are within about 15 miles.  There will be catered meals Saturday 
night and Sunday morning.  Mind you, the site is out in the *sticks* - 
stores and supplies are a dozen miles away.

Lots of prizes and give-aways.  Dash plaques, T-shirts, a teeter-totter, 
blindfold obstacle course, feely-meely box, silent auction.  Check out Feb's 
LRW for photos of last year's event or call up Jeff Berg's article on the 
RoverWeb.  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *----1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7 ----*

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Aug 96 07:56:57 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: The Land Rover gearbox jobs

>>>  The box isn't really that heavy, it is just a big chunk 
to have to move on your own.  Dave VE4PN

Huge strapping he-man that I am, (yeah, right) I was able to lift mine onto the 
workbench, but I wouldn't want to try removing it from the car without a helper.

Dave "Ungh" B.

------------------------------

From: "S. Vels" <svels@mail-server.dk-online.dk>
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 15:59:44 +0001
Subject: Website accessible

I can now access my own web-space on my providers (ha!) machine.

The contributions page is at 

http://www2.dk-online.dk/users/svels/contrib.htm

with two images at the moment. Let's see some more to choose from.

rgds
sv/aurens

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 23:31:06 -0400
Subject: Re: The vinyl frontier... (grey leather cloth near match)

Bill is looking for the hides of some vinyl elephants:
>I was wondering if anyone knows of a source for the original grey 
>'elephant scrotum' vinyl that was used in the S2A. It sure would be keen 
>to have a roll of this to redo the fascinating interior of the 109. 
>Preference for material that is not 30 years old.

I was looking for some "elephant hide" about two years ago. Apparently three
or four years ago several rolls were sold by Jacksons of Doncaster, a
military surplus outfit in England, but they were sold out. Dunsfold said
they had a roll in the attic, described it as "regret, not cheap" and wanted
photos and details of the vehicle it was intended for. There may be some
other 30 year old rolls lurking in England. The departed RoverWorks of NY
claimed to have a supply. If anybody is interested the LR part number was
91979 for bulk "Leather cloth, grey, 50" wide".

I did locate a source of nearly identical grey "leather cloth" in England
Woolies (Ian & Caroline Woolstenholmes)
Market Deeping, Peterborough
England, PE6 8LD
Phone (may be wrong) 01778 347347
Fax 01778 341847
They supply trim materials for vintage and classic cars, and carry several
versions of grey leather cloth which are very similar to the material in our
SIIs. Prices for 54" wide material ranged from 7.65# to 16.55# with the most
expensive potentially the best match and most durable.

I called them, and they sent a price list and some samples. I haven't ordered
any yet, but will do so once the mechanical work is under control.

David Cockey
Rochester, Michigan

------------------------------

From: LilRed90@aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 07:36:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Off-roading rule.

No matter what the vehicle, you don't get stuck.  You only get temporarily
detained.

------------------------------

From: "Lee Zeltzer (ISD)" <lzeltzer@isdnet.com>
Subject: RE: LroShop web site
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 20:34:31 -0700

Whoops. sorry about the commercial response to LROshop I intended to mail that directly to them.

a thousand humble apologies

------------------------------

From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: He-Man Dave :-)
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 13:16:05 +0930 (CST)

David "Ungh" B. Boasts:

> Huge strapping he-man that I am, (yeah, right) I was able to lift mine 
> onto the workbench, but I wouldn't want to try removing it from the car 
> without a helper. 

Ok Now try the same thing with the Lt95 (rangie) 4sp that Mirek and I are 
talking about.  If you can do that then I'm *really* impressed.....

cheers

Daryl

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 00:14:29 -0500 (EST)
From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com>
Subject: re:Suspension Woes

On 07 Aug 1996 Christopher H. Dow writes about suspension woes.

Chris

First shocks and then if needed the springs.

If I understand the way this works, you might as well give in now and just
do that complete frame replacement (coil sprung) and get it over with.

Jeff Kessler
1988 Range Rover
Newport NH USA   603-863-7883

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 00:14:27 -0500 (EST)
From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com>
Subject: T Shirt

Who ever is keeping score and what ever the final design, put me down for
one XL size.

It is time for someone to offer a few designs on a web page, get the list's
preference and start taking orders.

I think LRO shop is the best way to market the shirt.  They are on the list,
they are in the mail order business and if they make a dollar or so, good
for them.

BTW, is this a leaf sprung LR exclusive?  I have not seen a word about T
shirts on the coil list?

Jeff Kessler
1988 Range Rover
Newport NH USA   603-863-7883

------------------------------

From: krm@mtnms.att.com
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 96 11:08:40 EDT
Subject: Tour of Barbados in a Defender pickup

------------------------------

From: Spenny@aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 00:40:55 -0400
Subject: LROs in San Diego

is there anyone on the list from San Diego?

I am here on business, and would love to talk rovers and drink beer with
anyone in the neighboorhood

spenny

------------------------------

From: "Niel J. P. Fagan" <NF@orc.soton.ac.uk>
Date:          Wed, 7 Aug 1996 18:25:04 GMT
Subject:       Re: Taking the roof off (chain block access). 

Is this why so many new (coiler) Land Rovers have sun roofs (at least 
here in the UK) ?!?
Rgds Niel

Views expressed are personal and not those of the 
University, unless otherwise & expressly stated.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Aug 1996 07:44:57 +0200
From: eberhard seipelt <eberhard.seipelt@uibk.ac.at>
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe lro-digest

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 16:05:27 +1000 (EST)
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: collectives - no landrovers

This has nothing to do with Landrovers, it is sexist and not pc but I like it:

  Four young men were parking their car at the Grand-National when a car with
  four young women drove up.
  "What's a good collective noun for that car-load?" said one man.
  "It's a clutch of chicks."
  "No, it's a cornucopia of sweets."
  "I think it's a jam of tarts."
  "No, no, it's an anthology of English prose."

Lloyd

------------------------------

Date: 09 Aug 96 02:44:48 EDT
From: Alain Hoffmann <100770.1655@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Need help on a phone call

Hi folks,

Thanks for all the advice on better seating in my 90. I'll try out some hints.

Now I need some more help. I just built in an cruise control unit I bought last
year in the US. Sadly the manual got lost somehow, I suspect either Junior
having eaten it or the dog having played with it or something similar. 
All that's left is the box with an adress and an 1-800 number on it. I tried to
write them but got no response. And the phone number is not available from
outside the US (beside my spoken english being rather crude...).
So could PLEASE one of you guys spare 5 minutes and make a short free phone call
inside the US on my behalf? Please contact me directly for details, it's really
nothing complicated.

Thanks a lot.
			---ALAIN---

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Aug 1996 08:35:26 -0700
From: Paul Oxley <paul@www.adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: 2.6 fun

cmw wrote:
> Well, I got the head off my engine this a.m. really not to tough at all.
> Did find that the therostat housing to water pump fitting is/was broken -not
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
>   |___\_|_]__]
>     (o)    (o)  '69 109" RHD OD 2.6 Dormobile
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Hi Christopher,

Yup, been there done that, got the T-shirt!

I assume you're talking about the flange that comes down from the 
thermostat housing and mates onto the top of the water pump. There is a 
special high-heat O-ring that provides the seal inbetween. When the seal 
becomes soft it is US. It's not an ordinary O-ring either BTW, but a 
dealers-only replacement (ordinary O-rings can't take the heat). When you 
disassemble you will probably find that the flange has partially rusted 
through underneath the O-ring. Replace the O-ring and, for good measure, 
apply a liberal dose of Hermatite or Adlock (high-heat gasket sealant), 
and your problem should go away - I'm assurred that in a pinch you can 
get away with just the sealant but don't believe in taking risks I can 
avoid. If you don't fix this it is almost impossible to spot what the 
cause of a heating problem is, as it will only manifest under high 
pressure when the engine is very hot, and the pin-prick leak will emit a 
thin spray of water which will have dissolved by the time you get the 
bonnet (hood) open to look for it.

Hope this helps.

Paul Oxley (http://www.adventures.co.za)
into Africa adventures

------------------------------

From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: The Land Rover gearbox jobs
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 16:04:58 +-200

> A word of caution about gearboxes and their weight, use a jack to 
> guide, but not to lift, the ONLY safe way is to remove the floor and 
> gearbox cover and suspend the box on an engine crane, and if you 
> remove the seat boxes as well you can lift it out through the top !
> This is all well and true if you're taking the thing out in one great lump.
Points taken but Mirek was asking about a stage 1 box.  These are a one 
piece casting (the t/case and g/box are one unit) and are designed to be 
removed from below (hence the removable g/box x-member)  The engine hoist 
is a great idea, but I for one can barely afford a small "K-mart" floor 
jack let alone a hoist. 

I have to do a swap between the existing box and one from an old
Range Rover. This gives higher gearing on road = lower noise from 
both motor and fuelline.

I have planed to do it in this way:

Remove the doors
Remove driveshafts
Remove cover inside cabin
Make a |(((| of 3 pieces of 4"x4". 2 six foot long as legs, and one 
      eight foot long as top.This is a crane construction. 
Make a trolley out of a piece of plywood 2'x3', with 4 small wheels.
Place the crane through the door openings, fix a come-along to it, 
and to the gearbox.
Tighten the come-along, remove all the bolts holding the box, remove
the gearbox x-member.
Place the trolley under the box, and lower the box. If necessary push the
frame a little apart with the highlift.
When the box is on the trolley, I intent to remove the come-along and the
crane. 
Then lift the rover with the highlift, and place it on axles stands in the front 
end, and draw the trolley out. The front end, because if I try to lift the rear
that much, I also will have  to rebuild the roof.

The width is restricted by the door to my workshop. Therefore I will roll the
box in the middel of the workshop and with the come-along fixed to the roof,
I will lift the box and place a table under it. 

This, I hope can be done without help, but I can tell that some time during
coming winter.

Happy Rovering
Bent Boehlers

 

------------------------------

From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: Remote Breathers for Axle Housing
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 08:26:06 +-200

Erik van Dyck wrote:
Does anyone have remote breathers on their Series trucks axles?  I =
question
where they should should be routed.
I don't need an exercise in futility as I try to determine the best way =
and place to route these hoses if someone has already done this, so =
please let me know.
 Thanks

On the 110" this type is standard and mounted in a way so that they =
follow iron,
and is fixed to that all the way.

I suggest you fix it with plastic cable ties.
Start at the breather, follow the axle to the spring, follow the spring =
leaves to the
 frame, and then end as high as possible. In the front under the =
bonnet/hood, in
 the rear in the top of the wheel arch.
On my own, I have bought a rubber tube, and finished both under the =
hood/bonnet,
 in the air inlet. I will not get water in the axles before the motor is =
drowned.

Happy Rovering
Bent Boehlers

------------------------------

From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: The Land Rover gearbox jobs
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 09:33:10 +-200

> A word of caution about gearboxes and their weight, use a jack to 
> guide, but not to lift, the ONLY safe way is to remove the floor and 
> gearbox cover and suspend the box on an engine crane, and if you 
> remove the seat boxes as well you can lift it out through the top !
> This is all well and true if you're taking the thing out in one great lump.
Points taken but Mirek was asking about a stage 1 box.  These are a one 
piece casting (the t/case and g/box are one unit) and are designed to be 
removed from below (hence the removable g/box x-member)  The engine hoist 
is a great idea, but I for one can barely afford a small "K-mart" floor 
jack let alone a hoist. 

I have to do a swap between the existing box and one from an old
Range Rover. This gives higher gearing on road = lower noise from 
both motor and fuelline.

I have planed to do it in this way:

Remove the doors
Remove driveshafts
Remove cover inside cabin
Make a |(((| of 3 pieces of 4"x4". 2 six foot long as legs, and one 
      eight foot long as top.This is a crane construction. 
Make a trolley out of a piece of plywood 2'x3', with 4 small wheels.
Place the crane through the door openings, fix a come-along to it, 
and to the gearbox.
Tighten the come-along, remove all the bolts holding the box, remove
the gearbox x-member.
Place the trolley under the box, and lower the box. If necessary push the
frame a little apart with the highlift.
When the box is on the trolley, I intent to remove the come-along and the
crane. 
Then lift the rover with the highlift, and place it on axles stands in the front 
end, and draw the trolley out. The front end, because if I try to lift the rear
that much, I also will have  to rebuild the roof.

The width is restricted by the door to my workshop. Therefore I will roll the
box in the middel of the workshop and with the come-along fixed to the roof,
I will lift the box and place a table under it. 

This, I hope can be done without help, but I can tell that some time during
coming winter.

Happy Rovering
Bent Boehlers

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Lots  o' Landies
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 96 8:33:13 BST

> How about these:
> A LEGION OF LAND ROVERS
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> A LA(A)GER OF LAND ROVERS
> LAGER as in Beer

NO British vehicle would be a lager, would it?  A Continental European one
perhaps...                  :-)

> LAAGER  as in a circle of wagons or park for armoured vehicles .

Sounds Germans (ditto) 

------------------------------

From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: Remote Breathers for Axle Housing
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 09:34:31 +-200

Erik van Dyck wrote:
Does anyone have remote breathers on their Series trucks axles?  I =
question
where they should should be routed.
I don't need an exercise in futility as I try to determine the best way =
and place to route these hoses if someone has already done this, so =
please let me know.
 Thanks

On the 110" this type is standard and mounted in a way so that they =
follow iron,
and is fixed to that all the way.

I suggest you fix it with plastic cable ties.
Start at the breather, follow the axle to the spring, follow the spring =
leaves to the
 frame, and then end as high as possible. In the front under the =
bonnet/hood, in
 the rear in the top of the wheel arch.
On my own, I have bought a rubber tube, and finished both under the =
hood/bonnet,
 in the air inlet. I will not get water in the axles before the motor is =
drowned.

Happy Rovering
Bent Boehlers

------------------------------

From: Rick.Crider@trellis.net
Date: 9 Aug 1996 05:03:50 EDT
Subject: Series Radio/Speaker enclosure.....

All.....
I have devised a really clever enclosure (at least *I* think so) for
the Series vehicles.   It fits overhead, in place of the sunvisor
assembly,  and runs the entire width of the roof line.    It's about 4"
tall and roughly 9" deep, front to back.  Have done two of them over
the years and they work perfectly.

In mine I have mounted a dual-band amateur transciever,  Blaupunkt
am/fm/cassette,  CB radio with auxillary amp (sshhh!),  digital clock, 
speakers for the amateur radio and CB, and, on the bottom, two Sony
stereo speakers for the Blaupunkt.   Still have room on the passenger
side for the scanner when I get a round tuit.

Painted it with the 'wrinkle finish' black paint.   Looks and works
great, and , looks like it's meant for the truck.

It simply consists of two long pieces of sheet metal.....your
choice.....bent on a sheet metal brake into the proper configuration.  
 Should be able to have one made at your local sheet metal shop for
$20/30 total.

Bolts up with the same bolts that hold the roof to the windscreen frame
across the top.   Mirror bolts to the bottom of it just as it would to
the original sunvisor bracket.   Can even put your sunvisors on it if
you wish, though I didn't.

I can't do a diagram here that would make sense, and can't send photos
to every individual....but, if there's someone willing to  scan them
into their web page I'd be glad to provide the photos for the project.

Cordially:
Rick Crider  KD4FXA
Monroe NC
'65 Slla 88"    ' Virgil ' .......and for sale.....
'73 Slll  88"    ' Jesse'
'88 Range Rover ......the daily mule.......

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  9 Aug 96  6:23:22 EDT
Subject: Re: King PTO winch question

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 62 lines 0 [forwarded 100 whitespace 562]
 Output: lines 1804 [content 1011  forwarded 82 (cut  18) whitespace 551]

Land Rover Owner Subscription Information:

	* All new subscription requests are via the digest. *

In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked
Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved
(by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Useful commands for this are 'index lro-digest' which returns a list of
files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc.

World Wide Web Sites start at
	 http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/pages.html
(shadow) http://www.Senie.com/billc/lr/pages.html

If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have 
understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

  -B

Back	Forward
Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.