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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 07:13:54 EDT
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Petrol prices

Petrol is anything up to 64p per litre here, that makes is a touch under
1 dollar (US) a litre, or about L3.50 per US gallon.

High grade unleaded is an extra 5p (7.5 cents) per litre

There are massive complaints about the price of petrol in the states
at the moment.  There would be street parties if it was at US prices
here!

On top of that we pay 140 pounds a year road tax.

Of all the taxes charged on motoring about 1/3 go on spending for
motorists (roads, traffic cops, etc.).  Winge grumble moan.

And you yanks pay less income tax than us. More winging, grumbling
and moaning!

Petrol is so cheap in the US I never bothered about the cost when
I was there.

Have fun, Steve

Steve Reddock, Xyratex        |  "NEVER QUESTION AN
Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450      |   ENGINEER'S OPINION,
IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P)            |   YOU THUNDERING MORON !"
Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com  |     - Dogbert 1996

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 12:29:00 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Petrol prices

Steve winges grumbles and moans:

>On top of that we pay 140 pounds a year road tax.

Not all of us Steve,not all of us.....<g>

Cheers
Mike Rooth
(Who has taken his money,but wont vote for him)

------------------------------

From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de
Subject: Re: Gas prices
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 13:51:52 +0200 (METDST)

------------------------------

From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com>
Subject: RE: Importing Defender 90
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 1996 22:52:34 -0400
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

FWIW on importing vehicles...

As far as I know, in the USA, *ANY* vehicle manufactured after 1/1/68 =
MUST comply with any applicable DOT/EPA emission standards and safety =
standards in effect for any particular year thereafter (gas/petrol) and =
1/1/72 for diesel... This has been in effect for a zillion years and I =
have the current customs entry forms - it still says 1/1/68 on it...

So, be wary of *importers* who say they can get something *new* in here. =
It can be done- but it is time-consuming and very expensive. Bonds have =
to be posted, the vehicles impounded during certification process and =
the process itself is done according to a compliance checksheet that =
resembles the New York City phone directory!!! Caveat emptor!!

cheers
Jim

----------
From: 	Mike Smith[SMTP:ecrover@midcoast.com]
Sent: 	Sunday, July 14, 1996 8:49 PM
Subject: 	Re: Importing Defender 90

Dear All,
        I remember a few posts about this guy a few weeks ago, some =
really
singing his praises and some bad. Just thought you might want to see =
what
the guys in GA consider legal. If any of you have advice for the =
gentleman
who sent this too me, I'll be glad to pass it along. Or better yet if =
you
had actually had dealings with this company, I'll send that along as =
well.
        Thanks.

>East Coast Rover Co.,
>                   I am looking to import a Land Rover Defender 90. =
I've
	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 16 lines)]
>                                                       Name withheld
>        Telephone#--**********

        See ya!

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------ =_NextPart_000_01BB7224.48683A80

------------------------------

Date: 15 Jul 96 08:19:49 EDT
From: William S Kowalski <70252.1204@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Wiring Harness for LR

Someone looking for wiring harness for Series I, or wiring components, for their
LR, or other British vehicle, should contact British Wiring Inc., Olympia
Fields, Illinois, USA, 708-481-9050. They typically have harnesses in stock.  I
used their harness for my Big Healey restore and  was very statisfied. Made my
own harness, however, for the 109" IIA, because I wanted several non standard
additions, etc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 08:20:42 -0400
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Re: S2A - Exhaust manifold bolts

Olafur Agust wrote:

> i had to loosen the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold - only to
> see that all but one bolt was corroded (nearly) trough - that made
> impossible to but the exhaust pipe back on - my qestion to you guys is: Is
> it difficult to change those bolts - and how??
> It can be very tough to remove them.  Not only are the bolts a pain 
but you run a risk of cracking the exhaust manifold at the bolt hole.
When I had to remove the front pipe, I soaked the studs (these bolts are 
threaded on both sides, no head) in liquid wrench. I did this twice a day for 
a week, gently tapping the end of the bolt each time beforehand. I started turn 
the bolts with vise-grips (mole-grips in the UK) but they didn't hold the bolt
well enough.  I switched to a small pipe wrench.  After each small movement of 
the bolt I resprayed with liquid wrench.  

It took an hour or so but I was able to get all three studs out only damaging one
set of threads.  For damaged threads, I used a heli-coil insert. I have had no
problems with exhaust leakage but I'm only about 2,000 miles from that repair.

If a bolt breaks off or you are concerned about cracking the manifold, I would take
the exhaust manifold off and have a machine shop remove them.

Good Luck!
-- 
Nate Dunsmore
Rocking Horse Farm
Boring, MD 21020
dunsmo19@us.net

------------------------------

From: daviscar@cris.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 08:50:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Nat Rally in middle is a joke

Hi All 

I posted the bottom of this little note a few weeks ago and got no response.

I have to say that if it didn't make the list I am sorry for what I am going
to say next.

It is a sad day when WE as a goup of people can be out done by a bunch of
bikers (no offense to bikers)
as even they do midnight rides and things like that for charity. 
It Makes me sick to think that WE can't or Won't try to find a way to HELP
someone in need unless they have a Rover of some sort. Yea to the
Brotherhood at least There are those among us that are willing to help someone. 
It sure is a sad thing That this Midweast rally is only going to be fun for
a small group of people and no help to those that need it or at least do
some sort of good.

Now that thats been said on to another thought.

It has come up around here that the Britts do things like have a fund Raser
to ship a lr ambulance to africa or someplace that realy needs it. Well how
about doing something more with the National Rally then Just go and do the
Normal stuff (car Show, swap meet, drive off road and have a lot of fun.)
How about doing something like help the park service clean up an area of the
park like the fire roads (or even make some new ones) I am sure an offer of
couple hundred 4x4's to do something POSITIVE would not be refused and we
could still do the normal stuff.
or how about we all find some sponsers for a so much a mile charity type
thing. That way WE (all the LRs there) would be helping people as well as
having fun. Just some thoughts from the lost middle coast.

Bruce
67 SIIA 88 Patches
WANTED pre 1968 109 In USA
Daviscar@concentric.net
        Or
BDaviscar@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jul 96 08:59:22 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Downeast Rally/ Diesel Road Trip(s) Part II

Continued from last week...

Thursday 7/4
We finally Arrived at camp just after dark, and set up camp...naturally.:-)
within minutes of our tents being set up we were visited by the illustrious Bill
C., the genius(?) behind this list. Keep in mind the names herein (may) have 
been changed to protect the not so innocent. So here we were on July 4 and no 
explosive devices whatsoever. Naturally we compensated for this by staying up 
entirely too late and consuming a not very conservative amount of Guinness and 
Boddingtons, from the widget cans. The resulting sonic boom in my head the next 
morning was quite spectacular, more so than any fireworks show I assure you. 

Friday we woke early and once again were joined by Bill C., just in time for 
pancakes-from-a-plastic-bottle-but-made-by-mom. The cakes kept a-comin' and we 
kept a-eatin...be glad you weren't a pancake in the state of Maine that morning,
for you surely would have met your demise. All manner of food having been 
consumed, we made our way (slowly) to Spenny's 88" which was to carry us to the 
ferry for Vinalhaven Island, to join a tour operated by Jeff Aronson who writes 
for the Rovers North newsletter. We got to the ferry terminal in decent time, 
and were even allowed free parking by the lot operator since she had a Rover 
too...The ferry ride was rather uneventful, took about an hour and change and 
allowed us to see lots o' scenery. We arrived on the island, amidst a flurry of 
lobster industry type activity, and then promptly went and ate overpriced bacon 
sandwiches...go figure. After lunch we all (not sure how many but definitely too
many) piled into two 88s, one was Jeff's "QE1", well known to anybody who reads 
the RN newsletter, and the other a rather snappy late IIA owned by Jim Rosen. 
Met Jim at the Mid-Atlantic, he's done a real nice job with that truck. Anyway I
was forced to sit on the tailgate of QE1 so I had a nice view of the road over 
the canvas roof...we drove out to a beach on the pretense of a "nature walk", 
but we may has well have been in a garage as that was the "nature" of most of 
the talk. Very nice setting indeed. Next stop was a nature preserve somewhere 
else on the island. This time there were eight adults and three dogs crammed 
into Jeff's 88", one of the "adults" being Spenny who opted to ride in the spare
tire on the bonnet...After the nature preserve, which was also very beautiful, 
we rode back into "town", with Spenny still on the spare. This behavior did not 
seem to cause any angst among the locals as it most likely would in Downtown 
Arlington or DC...

And so it was back to mainland and camp where were amused to discover an 88 with
a gleaming new paint job, Koenig PTO winch and brand new Dick Cepek's, fully 
stuck about three feet inside the woods. After much interrogation it seemed he 
(Doug) had been told to pitch camp on our site (!) and then proceeded into the 
woods so he could stand on his bumper in order to tie his hammock to one of the 
higher branches. Seems he got turned around a bit in the soft ground so that his
roof  was now inches away from a tree. Couldn't back out, couldn't go forward. 
Zillion pound winch and all, and the poor guy was stuck within an arms reach of 
road. He actually cut down a small tree in order to get his LR out of the woods 
but not before I had some words for him. Needless to say this guy was a bit of a
moron. Bill and I had a gentleman's bet going on whether or not he would bash a 
panel. He didn't.

Next it was on to the Whale's Tooth pub for some long-awaited, (and yes, we 
waited...) grub in the way of Lobster and Steamed Mussels. MMMMMMMmmmmmmm. We 
were joined at the table by Quentin Aspin, Steve Denis, and his lovely 
accomplice Nancy. There was no sign of Dixon...

Then it was back to camp where yet more Ales and Stouts were consumed...We were 
joined later that evening by Eric Zipkin and Jeff Berg, who hadn't seen fit to 
join us at the Whale's Tooth, (so what if they ordered and ate in the time it 
took us to get seated?) We were also joined around the campfire by Mike Loiodice
(SP?) and I'm sure somebody else, but my memory fails me. I know it wasn't 
Dixon...Once again we stayed up way too late and this time I was careful to 
consume  the correct ratio of aspirin to beer, as I wanted to be in tip top 
shape for the Off-Road Day...

to be continued....

Cheers
Dave B
Arlington VA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 15:12:57 +0200
From: philippe.carchon@rug.ac.be (philippe)
Subject: billing

Hi,
I've finally decided to go to Billing. Unfortunately I cannot reach London 
before saturday 4 pm so I don't know when I will reach (without car) Billing 
but I will be there !

Philippe Carchon, Ghent Belgium
'81 Lightweight SALLBBAH2AA132345(chassis nr)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 09:35:08 +0100
From: rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi)
Subject: Re: Off-road in NH Aug 3rd / 4th

I'm considering running some old green lanes up here in NH and also trying
some new lanes I have found on the map . I'm contemplating the weekend of
August 3rd / 4th.

Mark-
Just saw this.  Seems to be a replacement for the 17-Aug trip, am I right?
I might be interested in meeting you for one of the days.  Will check
schedule and get back.

I trust you will be bringing RR w/out air dam this time?  ;-)
-Bob

  rvirzi@gte.com             Think Globally. ===
  +1(617)466-2881                            === Act Locally!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 09:59:50 +0100
From: rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi)
Subject: Death Valley tips/trips?

I'm planning a trip to Las Vegas the last week in Aug.  I've got a 4wd
(probably an Explorer or Pathfinder) reserved at Hertz.  Tried to get a
disco from Enterprise but was told they don't have them in LV.  three
questions for the collective wisdom of the group.

(1) Anybody know where I can rent something better offroad in the Las Vegas
area?  I'm planning several excursions and I'd rather have something more
able offroad.  Need to seat five, so Wrangler wouldn't work.

(2) I'm planning 3-4 days in Death Valley.  Camping is not practical for me
on this trip.  Anyone know of good places to stay around/near the park?

(3) I really wanted to get up into the Devil's Racetrack area but was told
it is serious 4-wheelin to get in.  Can anyone confirm this?  Suggestions
for other trips with light to moderate offroading would be >greatly<
appreciated.

Thanks.
-Bob

  rvirzi@gte.com             Think Globally. ===
  +1(617)466-2881                            === Act Locally!

------------------------------

From: "John J. Tackley" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 10:15:08 -500
Subject: rubber parts preservation

OK, for cleaning and preserving rubber parts, I've seen 
recomendations for use of WD-40 and Silicone spray products.

WHICH is it !!

I have always used silicone, but would be delighted to learn 
definetively which will, in reality, preserve rubber parts.

I defer to the experts.  Please advise.  Experts only need reply, 
thank you.
John J. Tackley, Richmond, VA"
'81 300SD / '89 FLHS "OINK" (That'l do, pig)
LRO wannabe (in negotiations for SIII 88 SW)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 07:40:44 -0600
From: "Darrell D. Murray" <rdgrnr@flash.net>
Subject: Trip/Tucson,Az. Area

If anyone is interested in attening a 4x4 trip, to Chiva falls area, The 
Ridge Running Rovers will be going on 7/27/96, at 1000 am.  We will be 
meeting at the parking lot of the Dunkin Donuts at Grant and Swan Roads, 
in Tucson.  Dunkin Donuts is located in the Southwest corner, of the 
intersection.  Only requirements are that you bring your Land Rover, a 
lunch/drinks and are ready to have fun.  If you have any questions, you 
may reach me at rdgrnr@flash.net, or 520-825-1665.
Darrell D. Murray,
Ridge Running Rovers,
15939 N. Twin Lakes Dr.,
Tucson, Az. 85739

------------------------------

Date: 15 Jul 1996 07:46:39 -0700
From: "Bob Frey" <frey@smtp.pvr.com>
Subject: Re: Death Valley tips/trips?

Death Valley in August? Hot! Average high temperature for August is 113.5 =
degrees. Carry water everywhere. The Racetrack road is usually very =
passable, not a problem for a rented SUV. Inquire at the Furnace Creek =
Visitor Center as to the condition of any park road before venturing out. =
The West Side Road and some others are often closed to vehicle travel =
during the summer months. If open, Hanaupah canyon is a nice drive. There =
are springs at the head of the canyon and a short walk will take you to a =
waterfall. Titus canyon is an easy downhill drive with spectacular =
scenery. Mahogany Flat is high in the Panamints at the start of the =
Telescope Peak trail...great views. 
Beginning this year Furnace Creek Inn is open all year ($$$). Furnace =
Creek Ranch offers more reasonable accomodations as does Stovepipe Wells. =
Gas is available at Furnace Creek and Stovepipe Wells. No Diesel.

Bob Frey
D90 "Red" 

 ------ From: Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net, Mon, Jul 15, 1996 =
------ 

(2) I'm planning 3-4 days in Death Valley.  Camping is not practical for =
me
on this trip.  Anyone know of good places to stay around/near the park?

(3) I really wanted to get up into the Devil's Racetrack area but was =
told
it is serious 4-wheelin to get in.  Can anyone confirm this?  Suggestions
for other trips with light to moderate offroading would be >greatly<
appreciated.

------------------------------

From: Proto777@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 11:46:11 -0400
Subject: distance piece

Hello All,

I have a 64' series IIa with a very bad set of brakes.
There is oil everywhere. I purchased seals and distance
pieces. In looking through my text I can find no reference
for removal of the distance piece. As I suspect it may
require some "gentle persuasion", I look to you, for
guidance. I'm a little hesitant to attack it with the chisel
and torch. Is there a specific methodology or do we,
simply, "have at it"? Incidentally, when looking for
information on the proceedure I came upon the bearing
renewal section and it suggests, packing them with grease.
Can this be correct or did I misread?

Thanks for any suggestions,

Arthur
proto777@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 09:08:34 -0700
From: tspoto@az.com (Thomas Spoto)
Subject: Re: distance piece

I did the distance piece last year. Take a cold chisel and hammer and cut
across the distance piece in line with the stub axle. Believe me it does'nt
take much effort to crack the distance piece. My first attempt nicked the
stub axle, I used alittle less persuasion on the rest.

Tom Spoto
2 x 72 88's (1 for later restoration) 1 x 67 88

>Hello All,

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)]
>Arthur
>proto777@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 17:02:13 +0000
Subject: Re: Land Rover diesel education desired

>The fuel is safer
>and personally,  I like the sound of a diesel

I like the ability to cook inside the van in loousy weather with no 
worries about torching myself......

Cnat ever imagine owning a petrol again - too many advantages to a 
deisel, and teh only disadvantage is power. (OK Landrover deisels 
dont last as long as the petrols, but that's LR design for 
you.....)

------------------------------

From: Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 17:02:13 +0000
Subject: Re: Land Rover diesel education desired

>>  This is a BIG
>>saving for Europeans, but with petrol in the US being free, there's
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
>to drive my Land Rover to and from work at todays local (near my
>house) petrol prices. Thankfully I van pool.
>Not quite free

As near as dammit. I cried every time I went past a petrol station in 
the US.

It cost the same to run my brothers Toyota truck in the US as to run 
my old 125cc motorbike in the UK       >:-[

------------------------------

From: Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 17:02:13 +0000
Subject: Re: Land Rover diesel education desired

>> Is that a particular problem with LR diesels?  I had a VW diesel
>> that ran out of fuel several times (fuel gauge didn't have proper
>> warning light) and I don't recall any problems in refueling.
>Likewise. Just long cranking in my VW would get it started, although

Yep. My 2.5 has been started this way too. Just once. Normally pump 
cos it's not too long a job....

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 12:02:21 -0400
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Re: distance piece

Thomas Spoto wrote:
 
> I did the distance piece last year. My first attempt nicked the
> stub axle, I used alittle less persuasion on the rest. 

With this concern in mind, I have found that applying a large channel locks
to the distance piece allowed me to rotate it back and forth (clockwise and
counterclockwise) until I removed it from the stub axle.  No damage to the 
stub axle but the old distance piece is quite chewed up.  

To put on the new distance piece, I use the Official Rover Hub Nut Socket
as a drift and gently tap it into place against the backing plate.  Works
like a charm.

Good Luck, 

-- 
Nate Dunsmore
Rocking Horse Farm
Boring, MD 21020
dunsmo19@us.net

------------------------------

From: "William Dan Terry" <wterry@netpubsintl.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 10:12:08 +0000
Subject: Re: squirrely steering

One thing to keep in mind is that at anything approaching highway 
speeds, Landys have the aerodynamics of a brick. Your steering might 
be perfectly fine, but with the aerodynamics small winds can have an 
effect. I particularly notice it everytime a truck passes me. This 
doesn't mean that you shouldn't check your steering thoroughly, but 
it does mean that it won't track like more aerodynamic cars.

Peace, William

______________W__i__l__l__i__a__m_____D__a__n_____T__e__r__r__y______________
  How do we acquire wisdom along with all these shiny things? (David Brin)

  wterry@netpubsintl.com
  http://www.netpubsintl.com/CyberJungle/CyberJungle.html
  Director of Technology, NetPubs International
  Software Designer - MINERVA Development Team, Booz, Allen & Hamilton

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 10:08:36 -0700
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: More price diffs (Was Re: Petrol prices)

        On the issue of UK vs. US prices, I've heard from freinds in the UK
that the price of Discos in the UK is the same in POUNDS as in the US in
DOLLARS (30K-38K).  Is this true?  If so, any theories as to why?

Chris
'96 Disco
('65 SIIA as of next weekend, yeah!!!)

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AAE.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 12:15:23 -0500
Subject: Re: distance piece

> I did the distance piece last year. Take a cold chisel and hammer and cut
> across the distance piece in line with the stub axle.
-
This is the method I've always used, with never a problem. be careful 
and you'll be fine as long as you have reasonable hand/eye 
coordination.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 11:56:30 -0500
Subject: Re: distance piece

I also used the chisel method. But I was concerned about marring the spline,
too, so I chiseled at an angle causing the distance piece to spin away. Then
I wedged a screwdriver behind it when there was room and applied a little
force with my knee. Then it spun right off, nothing damaged. 

I also packed my bearings in grease, but I don't think its necessary - I
believe they get 90wt from the axle. Didn't seem to have hurt it any, though...

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW        <- 31 yrs old today (7/15)!!!!! <:-)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 14:11:42 -0300
From: johnsonm@borg.com (myk)
Subject: Re: distance piece

<SNIP>
>tim harincar
>harincar@mooregs.com
>'66 IIa 88 SW        <- 31 yrs old today (7/15)!!!!! <:-)

Must be that new math--------^^^^^^^

Mike Johnson
74 SIII 88 (Chester)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 11:21:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Roberts <psu00712@odin.cc.pdx.edu>
Subject: Re: 110 V8 on Av-gas!

On Mon, 15 Jul 1996 d.nalder@ccmail.dtt.co.nz wrote:
>      A friend of mine with a '89 110 county s/w has just tuned it to run on 
>      100 octane aviation gas!!  Apparently it goes real good - although I 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)]
>      email: d.nalder@dtt.co.nz
>      1985 110 V8
 Warning!  Warning!  Warning!
	Due to the rather high levels of tetra-ethyl-lead in aviation 
fuel, especially 100-130 (green) gas, it has a tendency to clog 
carburettor passages in vehicles not designed (or modified) to use 
av-gas.  I was a line attendant at a small southern California airpark 
and used to run 100-130 thru my BMW R100S M/C.  Two tanks and my carbs 
had to be thouroughly de-goobered.  It used bing constant velocity carbs 
much like the stromburgs used in early V-8's.  But I could pull away from 
traffic uphill in 5th gear with nary a ping!!!

Michael Roberts
Portland (Vernonia), Oregon

------------------------------

From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 13:07:23 -0500
Subject: Model year change-over

Mike said...

>tim harincar
>harincar@mooregs.com
>'66 IIa 88 SW        <- 31 yrs old today (7/15)!!!!! <:-)
Must be that new math--------^^^^^^^

Mike Johnson
74 SIII 88 (Chester)

----

Sorry. It came off the line in '65. But, every document I've seen bills it
as a '66. It was shipped to the states on the 21st (?) of july "for distribution
to the NA dealer network" so I assume it may have been part of the new
model year shipments. There wasn't much (any?) changes made between '65 & '66,
so the year stamp may be arbitrary anyway.

Anyone know for sure?

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW        <- 31 yrs old today (7/15)!!!!! <:-)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 11:25:26 -0700
From: "John Y. Liu" <johnliu@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: distance piece

At 11:46 AM 7/15/96 -0400, you wrote:

>Hello All,
>I have a 64' series IIa with a very bad set of brakes.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>information on the proceedure I came upon the bearing
>renewal section and it suggests, packing them with grease.
>Can this be correct or did I misread?

You can hold the stub axle in a vise and use a cold chisel to split the
distance piece (the hub seal spacer).  Be very careful not to damage the
stub axle.  After the chisel has cut a "V" in the distance piece, you should
find the distance piece has loosened enough for you to rotate it off with
channel lock pliers.  The new piece can be tapped down onto the stub axle
with a suitably sized piece of pipe, but try using the old piece between the
pipe end and the new distance piece to avoid denting the surface of the
distance 
piece that the seal will contact.

The bearings themselves should be packed with grease.  But the interior of
the hub (between the bearings) should not be packed with grease.  The 90-wt.
oil in the swivel housing is supposed to fill the hub (through the felt
washer.)  I confess that I was concerned about how long it would take for
oil to seep through the felt and therefore I put quite a bit of grease
inside the hub to keep things slippery pending arrival of the oil.

Check if you have excessive play in the upper swivel pin. If you do, then
oil will continue to leak out at the swivel ball seal.  I guess this might
not hurt the brakes but you might want to get the swivels ship-shape as long
as you are covered with oil anyway.  To check, jack up the front of the
truck and then grab the top of the front tire and try to pull it in and out
(i.e., right and left if "front" is the direction of the truck.)  If you
encounter significant play, then have someone apply the brakes and try
pulling again.  The brakes will (should) lock the brake drum to the brake
backing plate so any remaining play is in the swivel pin.  Any play that
disappears when the brakes are applied is coming from the wheel bearings and
can be removed by correctly tightening the bearings (carefully tightening
the two nuts on the end of the stub axle.)

You are engaged in a messy job but the results are very satisfying.  My
Rover got a complete overhaul from the swivel balls on out and now has no
detectable play and (almost) no oil leaks.  Plus which it now stops when
desired!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 14:47:02 -0700
From: faurecm@halcyon.com (C. Marin Faure)
Subject: Re: 110 V8 on Av-gas!

It's not a good idea to run a car engine on aviation fuel.  While the
octane rating will be higher, it WILL NOT make the car run faster.  It
might cure a knocking problem, but the road performance of the car will not
change enough to warrant the extra cost and potential damage to your
engine's components.

Aviation fuel contains lead, even the currently sold 100 Octane Low Lead
(100LL).  If your Land Rover requires unleaded fuel, you will disable your
catalytic converter and may not pass emission tests if your state requires
them.  Aviation fuel has additives that are not particulary good for some
of the components of your Land Rover's engine.  If you have a knocking
problem, a better solution is to use an automotive octane booster like 104
Plus.  Some people think using aviation fuel will "soup up" their car's
performance.  It doesn't.

C. Marin Faure
        author, Flying A Floatplane

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 17:57:17 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Toys

Will Robin Craig please email me directly ASAP.
        Thanks.

Sorry for the personal post all.

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 17:45:16 -0500
From: Steve MARGOLIS <sim1@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: Series I Regulator

Hi Ronald,  

I'll dig out my series 1 workshop manual and take a look.  Probably the easiest way will be for you to send me your snail mail address, and I'll send photocopies of the appropriate page.  That shouldn't be a problem, since it is over 17 years old....

Steve

>THE POINT >>  Can anyone out there give me some wiring information or 
>maybe (oh please) a wiring schematic for this regulator? It would be 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> or send some e-mail.                 thanks
>						RONALD

Steve Margolis
Ithaca, NY
  
1957 107 Station Wagon, Series I, Still in kit form in Maine (Damn!)
        serial number 13470093 engine number 114707468

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 15:28:43 PST
Subject: help me(non-Land Rover)
From: rhodesia@juno.com (Chris R. Whitehead)

Anyone with a moment, sorry for using the bandwidth, but I want to give my best friend a hard time. Tomorrow-July 16 is his first wedding
anniversary, said he would never get married, then dated his wife for 11
years before getting married. If any of you have a spare moment, he has a
good sense of humour, please could you message him and congratulate or
harass him. His e-mail address is as follows:

SHOGZ@Protem.uct.ac.za

He works for University of Cape Town, South Africa, and a board full of
e-mail would make his day.

Thanks

chris W
1966 Series IIA 88"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 09:03:42 +1000
From: scholes@modemss.brisnet.org.au (David  R Scholes)
Subject: Mystery Exhaust Fluid

I recently had my 2.25 Holden engined SIII fitted with Motivator extractors
and a new 2" exhaust system. This morning I noticed what appears to be
water dribbling out of the exhaust. It's clear, doesn't appear to have any
strong smell and it isn't hot. Can anyone tell me where it's coming from
and what it means?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 16:38:04 -0700
From: tspoto@az.com (Thomas Spoto)
Subject: Re: distance piece

>At 11:46 AM 7/15/96 -0400, you wrote:

>The bearings themselves should be packed with grease.  But the interior of
>the hub (between the bearings) should not be packed with grease.  The 90-wt.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>oil to seep through the felt and therefore I put quite a bit of grease
>inside the hub to keep things slippery pending arrival of the oil.
On the two 72 88's I have, one of the six hub bolt holes goes all the way
thru into the interior of the hub, allowing you to add oil directly to the
bearings after the unit is reassembled. On the 67 as I recall there is a
small allen headed machine screw thatallowsoil to beadded to the hubs. 
Tom Spoto

tspoto@az.com   2 x 72 88's ( one, sometimes parts sometimes restoration
project)
                1 x 67 88

------------------------------

Date: 15 Jul 96 19:23:47 EDT
From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Steering

Michael Slade writes re steering wander after adjusting idler and swivel
housings.
 Have you checked all  6 track rod ends ? 
Have you checked the fit of the steering arms on the idler, particularly the
lower one ?
 Have you checkedthe backlash ( freeplay ) in the steering box ?  This can be
adjusted on the inside side of the box. Observe the steering arm, move the
steering wheel to and fro and observe the free movement of the steering wheel.
if this is more than a few degrees adjust by slackening the adjuster locknut and
turning the adjusting screw clockwise. Check the freplay at both exteremes of
steering lock to ensure that there are no tight spots. Lock in position with the
locknut.

 Regards  Bill Leacock  Limey in exile. 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 16:31:15 -0700
From: faurecm@halcyon.com (C. Marin Faure)
Subject: Re: Mystery Exhaust Fluid

>I recently had my 2.25 Holden engined SIII fitted with Motivator extractors
>and a new 2" exhaust system. This morning I noticed what appears to be
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>strong smell and it isn't hot. Can anyone tell me where it's coming from
>and what it means?

For what it's worth, almost all gasoline-powered cars and trucks seem to do
this these days when they first start up.  My 1973 Series III has done it
ever since the day I bought it new, my BMW 633csi does it, my Ford F-250
pickup does it, my Range Rover does it, and every vehicle I get behind
early in the morning in my neighborhood does it.  (I don't know if diesels
dribble water after startup.)  I assume it's the same stuff that causes car
exhaust to steam on cooler days after you start it up.  Once the exhaust
system has had chance to heat up you get steam out of the pipe instead of
liquid.  It's water, but I couldn't tell you why it's formed.

Don't worry about it.  The only damage it could do is if you start your
engine for a short time and then shut it off before this water stops
forming.  I assume the moisture still in your exhaust pipe and muffler
could encourage rust.  I have noticed in my Series III that if I run the
engine for a few minutes, during which water is dribbling out the end of
the pipe, and then shut it off and leave it for several days, a light
coating of  rust will form on the inside of the pipe (I haven't had a
chance to fit my new stainless exhaust yet.)  If I start the vehicle and
then drive it, the inside of the pipe turns light gray, and this color
remains even if I don't run the vehicle again for a couple of weeks.

Marin

C. Marin Faure
        author, Flying A Floatplane

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Jul 96 09:28:00 PDT
From: Richard Sieben <Richard_Sieben@ccm.fm.intel.com>
Subject: 1995 D90 SW Owners reaction.

Text item: 1995 D90 SW Owners reaction.

  Proud owner of number 177/500, 1995 D90 SW. Interested in getting in
  contact with all other 499 owners of 1995 D90 SW's.

  LRNA positioned our 500 vehicles as the end of the Defender run, never to
  return offically to these shores. Rumors are running high that LRNA is
  going to introduce as a 1996 1/2, or 1997 model, a D90SW. If rumors are
  correct, it would appear LRNA has had a change of position as to he
  Defenders availability in the US, one that will adversely affect the
  limited nature of our vehicles. Interested in getting other owners input
  on this subject and the groups interest in having a dialog with LRNA
  about plans that will affect our ownership experience.

  richard_sieben@ccm.jf.intel.com

------------------------------

Date: 15 Jul 96 21:03:50 EDT
From: "Steven  L. Meier" <102141.3253@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Re. squirrely steering

From. slade@sisna.com

Try various tyre pressures . . . my 67 109 Safari with 235/85 R16's runs 
"hands off" at highway speeds with 40 lbs. front and 36 lbs. rear. It required
alot of experimenting with various pressures to find the proper balance . . . 
once you do it's a whole new experience in driving pleasure.

Also, adjust the steering box for play . . . the nut and "bolt" on the side 
towards the wing.  Have it adjusted so the steering wheel is free to turn but 
with little play in the steering.  If it is too tight the front wheels can not
adjust to the road, as the steering box will "bind" and hold the wheels this 
was and that.  Again, a bit of experimenting may be needed . . . not "rocket 
science" just "hit and miss".

Well worth the time and effort . . . once you get it set up, just keep the 
balance by mainenance as needed.

Keep the "Romance" Alive . . . Steven L. Meier
ROVERS YOU CAN RIDE . Santa Fe . New Mexico
Specializing in Complete Frame Up Restorations
Engine/Gearbox Conversions and other Options Available
e-Mail 102141.3253@Compuserve.com  1.505.438.2475  FAX 1.505.989.7622

------------------------------

From: Robot10@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 21:23:14 -0400
Subject: Bill's picnic sunday

Hello and thanks to all of you who were so friendly at Bills picnic sunday.
For those of you who I wasn't introduced to, I was the huge dude with no
rover.(yet).

In response to many questions, here are some favorite sources of mine,
starting with Metric and Multistandard of Burr Ridge. Just about anything
from metric to BSPP to Whitworth form can be found at M&M, including Nutserts
in hard to find sizes. Sorry, no inch stuff!!! 

Metric and Multistandard
261 Shore Court
Burr Ridge, IL 60521
800-221-4469

They also have offices in:
Hawthorne NY 800-431-2792
Dallas TX  800-527-5177

Metric and Multi sells stainless steel tubing which I used to replace the
brake lines on my friends Benz. It makes for a job you do ONCE ONLY for EVER.
(unless of course you rip them off!!!)

For those of you who have a leaning towards
 the odd, you should also check out 

American Science and Surplus
847-982-0780

Spend a couple of bucks with these guys and you'll 
be recieving their catalogs forever... AS&S catalogs
are perfect outhouse readers. The descriptions of
articles are worth the price of the catalog.

Newark Electronics is also a good source, they have just
about every concievable electrical and electronic component 
known to man, including industrial quality pushbutton
and toggle switches and wire wrapping and labeling products.
Most of this stuff is made for industrial use and is 
therefore highly durable, while being competitively priced.

Mc Master-Carr and W.W, Grainger are also sources I use constantly, you'll
find them locally in yellow pages & they sell from soup to nuts.

If you ask for these catalogs as a private individual, 
you will be ignored. If, however, you give the person 
answering the phone a company name, even a bogus one,
you will get a catalog posthaste. I use Anform Industries,
short for "i'll do absolutely ANything FOR Money industries"
Make up a company name for yourself and stick to it. You'll
get on a million mailing lists. Don't use Inc. or Corp. unless
you are in fact incorporated.

Sorry 'bout the bandwidth...
Mark

------------------------------

From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com>
Subject: RE: Waving
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 08:09:40 -0400
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Steve:

I dropped an extra transmitter and key (the *lost* original!) in a FEDEX =
mailer this morning to you. You should have it tomorrow.

Sorry about the delay.
Remember that the Discovery will recognize only TWO transmitters at one =
time. If you ever end up with a third unit, it won't be *seen* by the =
car.

Interesting your waving tally. In our area, RR's and DISCO's are almost =
a total lost cause. If they do wave, it is usually someone from the CLUB =
or someone that also has a series car - like you!

cheers
Jim

----------
From: 	ASFCO@aol.com[SMTP:ASFCO@aol.com]
Sent: 	Sunday, July 14, 1996 11:02 PM
Subject: 	Waving

Having just returned from the Downeast Rally in Maine and a week on the =
east
end of Long Island and reading all the threads on sightings and waving I
thought I would add some more on the subject ...
Yesterday....Saturday after the rain stopped we took a ride in my Series =
lll
in and around the village of East Hampton/South Hampton... the kids kept =
a
tally of all LR's we saw and the response to our waves..the following
vehicles were observed within less than 2 hours within about a 10 mile =
radius
Thought you'd be interested in the results
RR  48     1 wave initiated by a female
Discovery 33  no waves (not surprising as my own  wife has passed me =
here at
home                                    and not waved either)
D-90    6       2 waves
D-110    2     no waves
S lla   4        4 waves

Clearly RR /Discovery, etc... on Long Island at least are nothing more =
than a
status symbol..the owners have no clue as to their heritage and as been
suggested here before would rather not be associated with the series =
vehicles
as evidenced by some of the looks we received
oh well...to each his own...  nuff said

BTW..... Hummer 3      3 waves

Rgds to all....

Steve Bradke   96 Disco
                      72 Slll (For Sale)
                      68 S lla 88

------ =_NextPart_000_01BB729D.3ECBDBC0

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 19:32:46 -0700
From: Blair Gillespie <Gillespie@thegrid.net>
Subject: Re: 1995 D90 SW Owners reaction.

        
        The rumors you are referring to are true. Luck for the rest of us is
that LRNA is going to bring in more 90s and it would be nice to think they
would bring enough vehicles so that the price of a new 90 would be in line
with that of the UK. I would love to be able to by a used 90 for a decent
price some time in the near future.               As a person who has been
around Land Rovers for a while, my "ownership experience" has been one of
pride of ownership, enjoyment of the outdoors, and being able to participate
with other people with Land Rovers. I guess that if they ever decide to make
the RR Classic again that I will start to worry about my " Ownership
Experience". Not!! Until then I will drive both my vehicles and enjoy my
ownership experience as many other Land Rovers owners have  done since 1949. 
        Rover On,
                Blair
        
                
At 09:28 AM 7/12/96 PDT, you wrote:
>Text item: 1995 D90 SW Owners reaction.

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
>  on this subject and the groups interest in having a dialog with LRNA
>  about plans that will affect our ownership experience.
>  richard_sieben@ccm.jf.intel.com
Blair Gillespie
San Luis Obispo Ca. USA
1988 Range Rover
1973 S III 88
1967 FLH HD

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 22:44:46 -0700
From: John Karlsson <karlsson@edgenet.net>
Subject: Re: help me(non-Land Rover)

Chris R. Whitehead wrote:
> Anyone with a moment, sorry for using the bandwidth, but I want to give my best friend a hard time. Tomorrow-July 16 is his first wedding
> anniversary, said he would never get married, then dated his wife for 11
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
> Thanks
> chris W
> 1966 Series IIA 88"

Chris -

Since I too have a 1966 SIIA 88", I'll do it!  Hey, maybe if I get 
friendly with you guys in Africa, I can get a line on a supply of African 
ticks.  It's a long story.

John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 22:56:27 -0400
From: Richard Ruffer <rruffer@interserv.com>
Subject: Waving

Steve Bradke wrote:
>Clearly RR /Discovery, etc... on Long Island at least are nothing more than a
>status symbol

The same is true where I live. I'm sorry to say I don't even bother to wave at Disco and 
RR owners any more-got tired of confused "do I know you" looks. I've always gotten a 
wave from D90 owners, except once (looked like junior sneaking dad's LR out for a 
drive). Unfortunately, I haven't seen any series vehicles around, so I haven't had a 
chance to wave to them.

Rich Ruffer
Morristown, NJ
rruffer@interserv.com
'94 D90 #634

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 22:48:29 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Oil pressure light sender/galv frames/lurchers

Clinton D. Coates asks...

>Is the oil pressure light sender something you can
>fix/adjust or is it a straight replacement?  Mine now
>seems to be on even when the oil pressure is happily
>at 60psi (and oil happily drooling everywhere when
>you take the valve cover off)
-

The sender for the warning light is a simple switch that closes when the
pressure is below a set level. If your pressure light is on all the time,
chances are the sender has gone bad. To check, disconnect the wire from the
sender. If the light goes out, replace the sender. If the light stays on,
then maybe you have a short in the wiring.

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 22:48:27 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: 109" Sighting

>        I _always_ wave at Rovers from my Disco.  Even the cars. 
>I wasn't ragging on Disco/RR/90/110 owners, just saying that all of the ones I 
>waved to didn't wave back...

On the way up to Owl's Head on the back roads in New Hampshire I passed a
Discovery and a D-90 going the other way. The *both* actually waved before I
got a chance to..

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 07:30:24 +0200
From: bcotton@lia.co.za (Brian Cotton)
Subject: Answers

Joao Parreira  : CLAK-CLAK:

If you're not-so-lucky then it "sounds" like your engine has blown a
crankshaft bearing ie. There is excessive free play on the bearing (probably
the rear bearing.
It should be quiet at idle and clack-clack wildly at high revs and under
load at revs.

I don't know of a way to check other than taking out the crank. :-(

DIESEL:

FIRST THE FUN PART...

Terri-Ann, My SIII 2.25L Diesel SWB will give your 2.25 Petrol something to
think about, and use half the fuel too ! :-))
My 2.5 Turbo, Intercooled Diesel (Not TDI) will do the same with one
cylinder tied behind it's engine block !  ;-)

There is not much that beats a diesel engine in top condition.

NOW THE INFO....
1)There was the 2L Diesel as in the Series 1
Indirect injection, no-self priming.

2)2.25L otherwise same as S1 as fitted to SII, SIIA etc 
  Had 3 Main Bearings.

3.1)Same as above but with modified injector pump (Some sort of injection
advancement) Injector pump looks the same but has a little goodie fitted to it.
  First SIII models had 3 Main bearings later models had 5. 

3.2)Australia has a 4 Cyl 3.8L ISUZU diesel fitted as OE.

3.3)South Africa has a ADE/Perkins 4 Cyl 3.9L Fitted to it's version of the
L-R     SIIIs. The SIIIs is the SA version on the British Stage I V8.

4) Pre '87 110's have the 2.5L 5 Main Brg Diesel fitted. It has a different
injector pump, uses a cam BELT, has a vaccum pump for brake boosters, and a
viscous fan.  
   Still based on the 2L/2.25L Block
   2.5L capacity is achieved by changing only the stroke. Pistons, crank,
cyl       head etc are interchanceable with 2.25L.
   The new injector pump is self priming so if you run out of fuel just fill
up    and carry on.      

5) 2.5L also came in a Turbo Version. The block had extra oil sprayers to
cool      the pistons and amongst others it also had some strenghtening mods.

6) The 200Tdi is an ENTIRELY NEW DESIGN based on a blank sheet or paper.   
   It incorporates DIRECT INJECTION (ie No pre combustion chamber as in the
earlier versions.)
   Direct injection gives lots more power and makes more noise. Technology 
   limited DI to larger capacity engines in the past.
   The Tdi also uses an intercooler to cool the air going into the engine
(more    power and reliability)
   Tdi stands for Turbo Diesel Intercooled

7) The 300Tdi was re-made with the idea of getting it to run smoother,
quieter and to get a better torque curve.

8) The BMW 2.5Tds 6 Cyl Turbo diesel is also used in Range Rovers but has
been detuned to such an extent that it lags behind the 300Tdi in peformance,
but it is VERY quiet and smooth.

Thats enough for now.

Check out BRIAN'S AFRICAN TRAVEL GUIDE

http://www.lia.co.za/users/bcotton

Brian -Diesels sound better- Cotton       

------------------------------

From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Mystery Exhaust Fluid
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 15:15:51 +0930 (CST)

> I recently had my 2.25 Holden engined SIII fitted with Motivator extractors
> and a new 2" exhaust system. This morning I noticed what appears to be
> water dribbling out of the exhaust. It's clear, doesn't appear to have any
> strong smell and it isn't hot. Can anyone tell me where it's coming from
> and what it means?

Good observation, it most likely is water, a by-product of combustion.  
With your new U-beaut extractors the exhaust gases are cooling to the 
point where the water condenses, hence it is dripping.  This will go away 
after a short warm up period. Pretty common occurance.

Cheers

P.S.  Does it sound good..... :-)
-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 07:44:52 +0200
From: bcotton@lia.co.za (Brian Cotton)
Subject: GERMAN INJECTOR PUMP

The best thing with injector pump is to take it to a certified BOSCH/CAV
service agent. The reason is that the settings and calibration after it has
been opened can only be done by someone who knows how and has the test
equipment.

Cheers
Brian
2 x SIII Diesels (LWB Turbo + SWB N/A)

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Petrol prices 
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 00:06:52 -0700
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@ridgecrest.ca.us>

Steve Reddock wrote:

 Petrol is anything up to 64p per litre here, that makes is a touch under
 1 dollar (US) a litre, or about L3.50 per US gallon.
 
 High grade unleaded is an extra 5p (7.5 cents) per litre
 
 There are massive complaints about the price of petrol in the states
 at the moment.  There would be street parties if it was at US prices
 here!

	You are right, gas is relatively cheap in the US.  For me the price of 
gas at the cheap station went from $1.04/gallon to $1.59/gallon in 2 or 3 
months.   Most of the complaining is a relative thing.  Anytime the price of a 
commodity goes up 50% in a few months, people will complain.

Ben 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Benjamin Smith----------bens@ridgecrest.ca.us----------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Land Rover diesel education desired
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 96 8:49:55 BST

> Good point. In the event of an atmospheric nuclear blast, the 
> resulting electromatic field won't hinder your escape. (of course the 
> blast might, but that's another issue)

But the mil. versions have shielding on all the cables. Mainly for radio
interference, but they'd also make them nuke proof, and probably help
guard againt shrapnel a *little*.

Richard (ex-Gurkha S3 FFR 109  - petrol with some of the original shielding)

 

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: S2A - Exhaust manifold bolts
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 96 8:57:39 BST

> Hi 
> This maybe a silly question!! - The story is: When i was taking the starter
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> Thanx    
>    Olafur Agust 

Olafur,

I had a similar problem. My exhaust came away from the manifold. The previous
owner did a good job (British Army Engineering, eh?) replacing the bolts with
bolts with allen heads (and round outsides). Being in a difficult position,
and the wiring (the bolts had eyes in them - wire had been threaded through
and tightened up, I couldn't do anything to it. A local garage restudded it
for L15.  I was also due for an MoT, so they did that too.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 16 Jul 96  6:48:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Land Rover diesel education desired

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Land Rover diesel education desired
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 96 11:56:49 BST

> Re Shielding for protection:
> Doesn't matter. The only Rovers that will drop dead are those with electronic 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> far enough away to avoid being in the blast damage area.
> Another good reason to own a Rover.....8*)

Hmmm, thinking about it, only the coil and condensor are potentially
vulnerable, and both of these are designed for quite high voltages (not sure
about the primary on the coil though, but then if they've done the tests...)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR which did 70mph and av. 19mpg yesterday!)

------------------------------

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