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------------------------------

From: Danny Phillips <danny@tlpgate.lonpar.co.uk>
Subject: Re: iso9000
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 96 12:22:43 BST

dear all, haven't written to the digest for a while and my apologises as this
has only minimal lr content.

i noticed a thread about iso9000 (or be en iso9000 to give it its full name).

you are purfectly correct to surmise that iso9000 parts 1 & 2 do not guarantee
quality. what they supposedly guanrantee is that if one person is off sick#]
 the office will not ground to a halt and therefore customer service at 
what ever level should continue.

i have to say also that i agree with the low standards set by some agancies 
approved to check for the cert. i have done both internal and external 
audits for the cert and have completed courses to say i am supposedly qualified
it has been said that i am somewhat over zealous in the audits but i don't see
any point in being lax as it is meant to be an effort to get the vcert.

anyway just my thoughts.

danny

p.s. lr content, i have a series 2a ex mil swb pick up, she is off the road
as she needs lots of attention including chassis repairs, i will be starting
the work but she is up for sale as well, oro 500 quid. 

my home phone number is 01702 616798 i will be sorry if she goes but i have
a terraced house and she is on the wifes nans farm 20 mins drive away and what
with working in london i don't get much time to see to her.

sorry if this last bit upsets anyone but she has to go to a good home if she goes.

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 07:43:28 -0400
Subject: Re: OD Clutch sleeve grease?

Rob,

Sorry for the delay in responding.  I went with a high moly constant velocity
joint grease.  It is high temp and the moly resists "wash out".  You can get
it in a squeeze tube that you can use to force the grease into the roller
cage.

Because this will be the only time the assy gets grease, I plan on redoing
mine every 10,000 to 12,000 miles.

'til later,

Larry Smith
'72 SWB Petrol - Grover
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 07:43:41 -0400
Subject: Sighting

To all:

Returned Monday from "vacation" at my mother's in Arkansas.  On I-40 between
Nashville and Knoxville, TN we spotted a primer grey 109 with white hardtop
(no side windows) being towed behind a Ryder truck.  Anyone we know moving
west?

'til later,

Larry Smith
'72 SWB Petrol - Grover
Chester, VA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Jul 96 08:46:41 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Leaking swivelpin housing

Re: Heavier Swivel Housing oil...

>>>That might stop or slow the leak, but it will proportionately stop or 
slow the lubrication of the joints.  This is an analogous issue to the 
SPOT of stuffing grease into the housing - not good.  Personally I'd 
rather swap the seal out than the joint; the choice is yours :)

I believe in some of the manuals they actually recommend using a 140 weight oil.
There aren't really any tolerances there that wouldn't get lubed by the thicker 
goo.. 

Dave B.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Jul 96 09:03:19 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Compression test question!!

>>Pull the plugs, insert ~12" of rope into the spark plug hole.
Use the crank to raise the piston up untill it pushes the rope
against the valves. Remove the springs.
This way you don't have to worry about losing pressure and droping
a valve. Sounds good to me.
Can anyone see a problem with this method?

Yeah. The rope gets stuck.

Actually that's how I did mine and it only got stuck two or three times. Turnig 
it the other way usually frees it right up. I used a 3/8 inch or so nylon rope. 
Get a longer piece so theres enough sticking out.

Dave B.

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: My Scottish Exploits
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 96 14:09:15 BST

My electrics sorted, I spent the whole of the week before last (well, the
evenings anyway), checking oil, flushing the radiator, replacing a tank,etc
ready for my holiday in Scotland.

Started off last Friday (way back in June). Managed to get to Leeds via 
Cambridge with a reasonable load, but still overheating - but much more
servere than the last longish run (Cambridge->Crawley) a week previously.
Luckily traffic was very bad, so I couldn't go much above 45 anyway
(hence it didn't overheat too much).

Saturday morning, reflushed the radiator properly - this time all sorts
of stuff came out, although the radiator still look a bit blocked (big
chunks of metal stuck into the holes, sort of thing).
Oh, also checked steering (see below) - and nearly knocked myself out with
a hi-lift jack [the beginning of a bad day me thinks].
Checked the thermostat. Okay (didn't *quite* close properly).
Then disaster struck, with one of the thermostat bolts shearing.
Managed to find a Landy garage in Leeds (fun driving through Leeds with a
thermostat housing not quite fitted properly) that did an emergency
repair - and replaced the thermostat whilst they were at it. Somehow or
other they broke the water gauge.

Set off at lunchtime with lots of water, lots of luggage, lots of food, and 
3 passengers. Boiled the radiator just short of Scotch Corner. Okay, I
was giving it a bit of stick. Boiled it again on the A66. Decided to turn back.
Managed to get to Scotland and have an excellant holiday. (arrived at the
house in the Highlands at 2am the following morning).

Managed to get my father to order the new bits - we decided the radiator
wasn't going to come clean (dissolving those bits, would probably result
in the radiator dissolving). Also got a pump (with money-back option if
we didn't need it). The pump was from Paddocks, the radiator from Craddocks.
Except, Craddocks didn't deliver on time - they even told my father that
they had them in stock and he'd have one before the weekend [infact, they
only arrived in stock on Friday, and he's still waiting for it].
Spent Sunday morning dismantling the cooling system. Lots of rubbish in
there. A few hoses, screws, and jubilee clips need replacing, but that's
not a problem. The pump was in very good condition - not blocked, and the
bearing appears okay. Belt was a *little* loose though.
Had a Cosmology PhD Student (First in Maths from
Cambridge) to give a hand. We think she did well in her topology classes,
although we had trouble explaining the difference between the imperial
bolt sizes to her (probably because we didn't understand them!)

Left the garden covered in bits of hose and radiator, and my father having
fun (have to go up to Leeds this weekend to hike *the* Three Peaks of
Yorkshire).

Now for the questions!   :-)

1.) My father couldn't get hold of an electric 24V water temp gauge.
I gather its not really worth replacing the oil one (cf. earlier
discussion). Safari won't send the the capillary versions through the post.
Strikes me that if they're this delicate, than will I be able to fit one
without it breaking??  I've decided I don't like capillary gauges. They
break...
Do 24V ones exist that fit the mil. cluster?
Or, will a 12V one fit?  I could then run the gauges off the 24->12V converter
I will eventually fit, *or* build a quick little 12V regulator
(7812 chip) for a couple of quid.

2.) On the way to Leeds, I experienced some strange "road" noise. 
Suspicious enough for me to stop about 1-2 miles after first hearing it.
My front left wheel was loose. Hints to what could have caused this?
We later jacked it up, and steering seemed okay, although when driving,
steering left was quite hard. This resistance varies. Someone has
suggested dud wheel bearings. Tyre pressue was a tad low (like a couple of
psi) - ie. not low enough.
How much of a job is it to replace these, if it is, or how can I find out
for sure? What else could have caused it (other than sabotage - unlikely
me thinks!)
If so, I'll probably add FWHs at the same time, and replace the oil seals on
my front right.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 09:20:59 -0400
From: LRO Book Shop & The LRO Shop <lroshop@idirect.com>
Subject: Models

Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 22:35:13 PST
Subject: Re: Micro-Machines (LR Toy)
From: rhodesia@juno.com (Chris R. Whitehead)

You might also try train stores for Land Rovers-I have purchased a few
through a local hobby/train store. A red fire engine was a prticularly
well detailed item-albeit rather small. They are made by ROCCO, and
Austrian company-the fire engine is model number 1359 and cost me US$12

Cheers

Chris Whitehead

LRO SHOP has a complete listing of models which will soon be available from
our web site.  In the meantime let me have an address and we will be happy
to send anyone interested a copy of the full list.

Regards LRO SHOP

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 09:28:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: Chris Witzgall <witzgall@internext.com>
Subject: re: hesitation

One thought on your hesitation problem. Did you replace the fuel filter? If
you did, you might want to take it off anyways and see how it looks. If you
have some really bad crud in the fuel tank, the filter can clog up VERY
quickly! A semi clogged fuel filter can cause hesitaion, right before it
stops you from going forward at all.
Chris Witzgall
Delaplane, VA
1970 IIA 88
(540) 364-3391

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Jul 96 15:56:10 
From: "Jens Vesterdahl" <jve@phaseone.dk>
Subject: Re: 4th gear poping out

Hi all.

On July 8th, Joao Parreira wrote:

My Landy (1980 SIII) as been developing the nasty habit of disengaging the 4th
gear when climbing a hill (with 6 adults in it) and rolling at 60-70 Kms/h. Can 
I consider this normal (!) or is my beast developing some problem. 

I have no OD, all gears engage well and it only disengages when climbing hills
(it is easy to re-engage it and carry on cruising).

If you can help me I would appreciate it.

______________________________________________________________________________

Well, I have experienced this, but it turned out that last time I assembled the 
main gearbox, I accidently reversed the 3rd/4th synchro, so that it jumped out 
of 3rd when motor braking and out of 4th when pulling. I'd say your synchro is 
getting worn.
The last time I said this (on a 3rd gear question I think), someone had an other 
suggestion to the failure. Something with the washers on the main gear shaft if 
my memory serves me right. Are you still out there mate?

Happy Rovering

Jens Vesterdahl
Copenhagen, Denmark
1972 109 STW

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Jul 96 10:10:01 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: extra head sIII,FS

>>>>.I now have the original head with valve train and cover for 
sale...it is rebuildable,but needs 1 exhaust valve...e-mail me if you can 
use one...also if someone needs a SII 2 prong gas cap i will send it out.

Once again...

Where are the parts located?

Dave B.  
Arlington VA

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Exhaust
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 96 15:13:13 BST

> Hi All,
>   My Stage 1 (109 v8) needs a new exhaust from manifold to end pipe. I poped 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> so The wilds of Wales and Scotland are out!
> :-)

Between viewing my truck and picking it up, the place I bought it from
(Blanchards) fitted a new exhaust for free - and I didn't even ask!
They're up in East Yorkshire though, which would be a bit far, and they
prefer to specialise in mil. stuff - can't see there being any
difference, though??
Tried a local garage? My local one (nr. Crawley) restudded the manifold / 
exhaust bit for L15.

Speaking of exhausts: My father reckons I'm running a little rich, going
by the black inside the exhaust end-pipe. Comments anyone?
And how do I correct this?
I know I'm burning a little oil. Could it be related to this?
Also, I have been running warm the past few weeks.

Richard

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Jul 96 10:27:01 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Gain 80# overnight!

>>>>What didn't I do that caused the readings to be 20 lbs low?
First correct answer wins a pint of my homebrew, "DiabolicAle"

You didn't open the throttle.

Dave B

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com>
Subject: 109" Sighting
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 96 10:32:00 CDT

On my way out of Delaware on I95 this past weekend, I waved to an oncoming 
Ser III (I believe) 109", tan color (or should I say colour... :>) with a 
roof rack that looked to be in outstanding shape!  Anyone on the list 
belonging to this vehicle?

Of course, now I want a 109 more than ever.  If I get one, will it consume 
any spare time that I currently have? :>

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 08:37:03 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Re: Now what do I do?

You wrote: 
snip
>I think I may have solved it but won't know till I drive It again.
>Is it normal for every thing in the car to run off one 30 amp fuse? (except
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>I am at a loss help!!!
>Bruce

Strange but true.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 08:41:13 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Re: Light Bulb Causes Running On

You wrote: 
snip
>>I took Mathilda out for a run around the block with the charging 
>>warning light disconnected.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>>put back in idles at a nice 500 rpm with 40 psi oil pressure AND shuts 
>>off when the ignition is turned off!  

snip

>Why not try a correct bulb in it?
>This seems to work usually.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>So I measured several, and got 6 to 7 ohms.
>Bob

It would be nice to use the orignal bulb but unfortunately I don't have the original 
light socket - hence the aftermarket bulb.  I'll try to check the resistance tonight 
and post for those interested.  Thanks much for the info.  The diode seems like the 
most reasonable solution.

cheers

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 11:53:22 -0400
From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing)
Subject: Delco Alternator

I remember a thread a while back on converting a LR to a Delco alternator.
I did this recently, and it was a great success, but I have since forgotten
the wiring details and my Rover is 400 miles away at the moment. I now need
to perform this same operation on my Jaguar MkII. Could someone please send
me the wiring info? It is a standard Delco alternator with a hookup on the
back for the battery connection and two terminals on top labeled 1 and 2. I
intend to bypass the voltage regulator entirely and run new wires directly
to the warning light, ignition, etc. Thanks in advance.

Braman

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 08:50:09 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Stiff Steering was Re: Light Bulb Causes Running On 

You wrote: 

snip
>>P.S.  The trip around the block revealed the transmission to be good 
>>but the steering is very stiff (stiffer, I think, than when I purchase 
>>her... 

>Hows your steering relay? They can be very stiff if not topped with good old
>smelly 90wt.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>Or....did the tires sit so long they lost most of their air? :>)
>Bob B

Tires are good - they've not sat THAT long.  :)

Swivels should also be OK; I rebuilt, retensioned/reshimmed and lubricated them.  
The tension seemed a bit stiffer than the original (I seem to recall I used the 
Haynes manual figures - don't recall values off hand).  I did set the pull using a 
fish scale.  I expect some of the stiffness is due to the tension but definitely 
not all.

The steering box has been relubricated but I never opened it up since it was 
working well on purchase, so that's an unknown.  

The most likely candidate, as you point out, is the steering relay.  I've not 
topped this up lately either so that's the first step.  I need to "borrow" a 
disposable syringe/needle from work to inject the oil rather than spend the 
weekend dropping it in :)

Next step is to disconnect the joints to check for function.  I need to locate the 
appropriate size puller (right Jim?) or pickle fork (much less desireable).

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 12:31:06 -0400
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@InterLinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: Stiff Steering was Re: Light Bulb Causes Running On 

At 08:50 96-07-08 -0700, you wrote:

>Next step is to disconnect the joints to check for function.  I need to
locate the 
>appropriate size puller (right Jim?) or pickle fork (much less desireable).
>cheers,
>Jeremy

        I don't use pullers or pickle forks. I just use a 2 lb hammer and
hit the         steering box drop arm or whatever with a good swing. Never
hit the tie-rod end         itself. It ususally falls right off after a
strike or two.

Michel Bertrand
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada

1963 109 PU (Rudolph) and friends

------------------------------

Date: 08 Jul 96 12:39:40 EDT
From: Rob Dennis <73363.427@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: SoLaRoS Invitation

If anyone is planning on being in Atlanta for the Olympics, SoLaRoS is going to
be having our monthly trail ride on Saturday the 20th if anyone is interested in
joining us. It is a moderate trail with minimal chance for body damage, there
may be a chance of pinstriping if the brush has become to overgrown. The trail
is near Ellijay, GA. about an hour north of Atlanta. The trail itself should
take about 4 hours, depending on condition and rest stops. If you aren't
bringing you own vehicle we should be able to find rides for some people. Or you
could rent a Disco from Enterprise...

We will also be having our monthly meeting at 7:30p on Thursday the 18th. All
are welcome, just call or email for details. 

If you aren't in town either of these dates, let me know, other activities may
develop depending on interest.

  
     -------------------       
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     73363.427@Compuserve.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|      (404) 875-4537
   |     |   ###   |     |      
   |     | ####### |     |      1972 SerIII 88
   |_____|_#######_|_____|      1990 RangeRover
  [_______________________]     1996 Discovery
     EEEI           EEEI

Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 On 08-Jul-1996

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  8 Jul 96 12:47:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Stiff Steering was Re: Light Bulb Causes Running On

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 11:07:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: scooper@scooper.seanet.com (Sandy Cooper)
Subject: British Auto Show

This Saturday 13 in Bellevue, Washington (Washington State) There will be a
British Automotive Showing At Bellevue Community College.  I think that
there will be at least 10 or more land-rovers though I`m not sure.  Mine
will be there also (the one with the original paint still on ).
John Cooper 1969 11a 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 11:52:36 -0700
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: Stiff Steering was Re: Light Bulb Causes Running On 

Jeremy said:

>The most likely candidate, as you point out, is the steering relay.  I've not 
>topped this up lately either so that's the first step.  I need to "borrow" a 
>disposable syringe/needle from work to inject the oil rather than spend the 
>weekend dropping it in :)

Jeremy, 

You don't need a syringe, just a regular old, garden-variety oil can with a
pump handle and a small, pointed tip.  Fill it with 90-wt.  Remove two of
the top bolts on the relay (or just one bolt and the fill plug if you have
one of the cherished early style relays).  Squeeze in 90-wt until it comes
out the second hole.  If you have the front end tyres elevated, you might
want to work the steering a bit to make sure you've gotten any bubbles out
and then give another squirt.  Put the plugs/bolts back in.  You're in
business.  I think this will work better than a hypodermic syringe for
pumping 90-wt.

Cheers,

Granville "Granny" Pool
Redwood Valley, CA USA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Jul 96 14:53:10 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: 109" Sighting

Doug says:

>>>>n my way out of Delaware on I95 this past weekend, I waved to an oncoming 
Ser III (I believe) 109", tan color (or should I say colour... :>) with a 
roof rack that looked to be in outstanding shape!  Anyone on the list 
belonging to this vehicle?

Depending on the date, the time, and the direction, it could have been me. I 
would have been piloting Bill Adams' 109 SW (SIIa) to or from the Downeast 
Rally(e), on Tuesday or Sunday, respectively. Details to follow, stay tuned. 
Sorry I didn't see you. It figures all the D90s, 110s (1), Disco(e)s, and 
Rangies I saw, none of them waved back. The one that does wave I don't even see.
Oh well.

Dave "Were your arms flailing out the window?" B.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 15:00:01 -0400
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Re: Stiff Steering was Re: Light Bulb Causes Running On

Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:

> Michael goes for the brute-force method:
>         I don't use pullers or pickle forks. I just use a 2 lb hammer and
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> Michel Bertrand
> Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada

> Please, no.....this is ungood for the seals and so forth.
> Undo and remove the pinch bolts, then open the split back of thearm by wedging
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> Hammering is not so good an idea...
>       ajr

I agree with Alan's method for the arms on the steering relay. However, when 
it comes to removing the longitudinal arm from the drop arm off the steering
box, I tried various forms of finesse but had no success until placing the 
pickle fork (tie rod fork) in there and whanging the he** out of it with the 
8 lb sledge with the long handle (the short handled one did not suffice).  It
took 3 to 4 moderate blows before coming off, tie rod end and drop arm undamaged.
I did slightly bend a tine on the pickle fork. (And it's not a Craftsman...bummer)

Nate Dunsmore
Rocking Horse Farm
Boring, MD 21020
dunsmo19@us.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 12:31:53 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Re: Stiff Steering was Re: Light Bulb Causes Running On 

You wrote: 
>>The most likely candidate, as you point out, is the steering relay.  I've not 
>>topped this up lately either so that's the first step.  I need to "borrow" a 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>You don't need a syringe, just a regular old, garden-variety oil can with a
>pump handle and a small, pointed tip.  
snip
>Granville "Granny" Pool
>Redwood Valley, CA USA
>>disposable syringe/needle from work to inject the oil rather than spend the 
So Bob tells me too.  Guess I'll have to try the more traditional approach :)

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Jul 96 16:12:21 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Pulling Steering Box Arm

.... removing the longitudinal arm from the drop arm off the steering
box, I tried various forms of finesse but had no success until placing the 
pickle fork (tie rod fork) in there and whanging the he** out of it with the 
8 lb sledge with the long handle....

I used the proper tool, a pitman arm puller. I rented it from Trak Auto, no 
charge if you bring em back in one piece. It's like a gear puller but the arms 
are fixed so that it doesn't twist itself off whatever you're trying to pull. It
took alot of pressure to get it off, and then it just sort of went BANG!!!! and 
then it was off. I would do it that way again if I had to do it again, but will 
wear eye protection next time in cas the puller shatters.

Dave B. 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Jul 96 16:15:54 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: technial quiz answer

A: I didn't have the throtle and choke wide open when cranking the
engine. (I think the choke was off, but throtle was at idle).

I recieved a few good guesses by not the right one. I guess I'll have
an extra pint this afternoon.

I wrote my answer in before I read this, even though you had posted it, so buy 
yourself that pint but save one for me. Where do live so I can come and collect?

Dave "And I do intend to" B.

PS: Couldn't reply personally since you didn't give your e-mail address...

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com>
Subject: Re: 109" Sighting
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 96 16:58:00 CDT

Acutally, it was Sunday evening around 6:00pm and the vehicle was heading 
south on I95.  Point is, I loved what I saw and I want one! 
  Waaaahhhhhhh...

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767
"Topless and wet."
 ----------
Depending on the date, the time, and the direction, it could have been me. I 

would have been piloting Bill Adams' 109 SW (SIIa) to or from the Downeast
Rally(e), on Tuesday or Sunday, respectively. Details to follow, stay tuned. 

Sorry I didn't see you. It figures all the D90s, 110s (1), Disco(e)s, and
Rangies I saw, none of them waved back. The one that does wave I don't even
see.
Oh well.

Dave "Were your arms flailing out the window?" B.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Jul 96 17:21:53 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: 109" Sighting

Acutally, it was Sunday evening around 6:00pm and the vehicle was heading 
south on I95.  Point is, I loved what I saw and I want one! 
  Waaaahhhhhhh...

Twas I, I'm quite sure. Red jerry can and extra tire in the roof rack?

Dave "Don't cry now, there'll be time for that when you're doing 25 uphill on 
the expressway" B.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 18:06:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: 12/4/95 <rsloan@titan.liunet.edu>
Subject: dealer troubles

I didn't catch exactly the bad experiences posted to the list, but I have 
to say that I've yet to suffer one, and I've brought my 90 in for a 
number of, how shall we say, "adjustments." Mind you, nothing major, but 
the first time I brought him in I noticed that there were quite a few 
people in line before me.  ALL of them looking ready to tear the head off 
the service person.  Now I am sure that most of them had legitimate 
gripes and bitches, but the way they handled them seemed to cause more 
problems than they had when they first came in.  Yelling and threatening 
a service rep does no good really but to alienate them when you want them 
to be your friend, after all, they are the ones who service your 30,000+ 
investment, and in truth, they didn't cause the problem.  
   I made it a point from the get go to be polite and almost happy to see 
them.  They provided free coffee and bagels, I brought them a thing of 
flowers or coffee cake.  I know them by name and they know me, even if they 
haven't seen 
me for awhile.  My vehicle is serviced promptly, they've arranged rides, 
hell, they even gave me a rental when all I really had done was an oil 
change.  I know this is a lot of bandwidth to blow on this topic but it 
seems that people create a lot of mountain out of molehill.  Of course, 
I haven't had any really serious problems...(knock on wood here)
First problem: E-brake failed to fully disengage, resulting in a chugging 
kind of motion when driving slowly and stopping-fixed as soon as I came 
in, no appointment.
2nd: Exhaust tick...again fixed when I got there, by the manager of the 
repair shop no less, named MIKE.
3rd: Exhaust tick came back, fixed again, but I had to leave him, no big 
deal though as they provided the rental.(a crappy honda unfortunately)
4th: Radio malfunction, wouldn't play but had power, no code.  Fixed with 
a replacement radio as I waited consuming a number of free bagels, 
entertained by the bitching and moaning of many of the snotty, affluent 
types. (I bought my LR in Glen Cove, a well to do section of Long Island NY)
5th: Window wouldn't drain in the rain...they kind of fixed it by 
drilling holes, unecessary because A. That didn't work, and B. The drain 
plugs in the doors were fine, just clogged, as I discovered when I 
removed the windows.
Anyway, my point basically is treat as you would be treated I guess. 
They'll be more inclined to assist.  I would be.

In other matters, how do I remove the doors on my '95 D90?  I used to do 
this with my old truck and would like to repeat it in the 90.  Looks like 
a couple of bolts need removing but are the speakers a tricky deal?  Has 
anyone done this?

later,
Richard
'95 D90

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 23:15:51 +0200
From: Defender@belgonet.be (Luc Rokegem)
Subject: Meeting at Billing

Some people want to meet at Billings, but it will be difficult to find
each other So I'm suggesting that we meet each other at the LRO-stand.
This is a large tent, and I suggest that we meet at 5pm on Saturday.
I suggest so late because it will be probably not so buzzy anymore.
Stay outside on the entry.  Sorry but I can't reply anymore on any
messages, becausse I'm leaving tomorrow to Ireland, and from there I
go to Billings. I will be there probably thursday.
Have a nice vacation everyon and Cheers !

            _______________    Luc Rokegem
           //   |          |   St-Pauwels (Belgi=EB)
    ______//_ _ |          |#  defender@belgonet.be
    |   __            __   |#  http://www.belgonet.be/~bn000165/index.html
    |__/  \__________/  \__| 
       \__/          \__/      lawyers and Land-Rovers must be well greased

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 18:49:48 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Thanks!

Dear All,
        Just wanted to thank everyone that attended our Off Road Day on
Saturday, and for all the calls you have made thanking Alan and I. I had a
great time, hope you all did as well. The day was great, highlights
included 2 101FC's, SIII Lightwieght, SIIA 109 FC, and lots of others, from
SI 80 inch to the new RR. In all we had 135 Rovers on the grounds, this was
at my lunch time count. Thanks again for making our Off Road Day a success,
and with all of you being such great guests!
        The DownEast rally on Sunday had 157 Rovers on the grounds at the
lunchtimne count, so Jeff Aronson told me. That was a great day as well.
        I look forward to seeing you all next year, as we take the Off Road
Day to its next level, at a new larger venue, with even more fun and some
major changes in store for you!!!!!! More on next year later...
        Hope you all had fun, and for those who missed it, start planning
for next year!

        BTW... anyone interested in getting the Off Road Day VIDEO should
contact us, and we'll put you in touch with the film guy.

        See ya!

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

From: Land_Rovers@learnlink.emory.edu (Sean P. Murphy)
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 19:01:57 -0400
Subject: Re: SoLaRoS Invitation

73363.427@CompuServe.COM,Internet writes:
> If anyone is planning on being in Atlanta for the Olympics, SoLaRoS is
> going to
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> people. Or you
> could rent a Disco from Enterprise...

I was on that trail a month or two ago and it was not overgrown at that
point.  It's safe, but fun.

------------------------------

From: daviscar@cris.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 19:42:47 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: electric woes HELP!!!!!

Hi All

I had posted this under another subject but rewrote it after reading it again.
Hope it makes more sense now. Was now what do I do?
Thanks for the help!!!!!

Well I have a problem the alt light comes on when you let up on the brake.
This started after I changed my fuse block for a new one.  I put all the
wires back the way they came off.  I did a gen to alt convertion some time
ago with no problems till now.

The lite goes back out if I rev the motor. (delco 40 amp Alt.)
 I check for a voltage drop, none found.
The brake lights work fine.

The only way I have found to solve it is move the sense wire from the top
fuse to the bottem fuse. Drove home from work with a meter pluged in to the
"lighter plug" with the lights,wipers,brake lights, & hitting the horn the
lowest voltage was 13.13v the highest was 14.65v (with no load.)  With the
wire on the top fuse the highst voltage was 15.85v (with no load.)
Has Anyone out there ever chased this gost before?
Can anyone help me PLEASE!!!!!!

Bruce
67 SIIA 88 Patches
WANTED pre 1968 109 In USA
Daviscar@concentric.net
        Or
BDaviscar@aol.com

------------------------------

From: noelp@waalpha.wa.bom.gov.au (noelp@bom.gov.au)
Subject: RE: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
Date: Sun,  7 Jul 96 23:38:56 GMT

lro-digest unsubscribe

Noel Puzey                     
Metdork                       
                               
ph 09 2632255 (w)              
   09 3682361 (h)            
   09 2632261 (fax)           
                              
                                        

------------------------------

From: noelp@waalpha.wa.bom.gov.au (noelp@bom.gov.au)
Subject: RE: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
Date: Sun,  7 Jul 96 23:39:32 GMT

unsubscribe lro-digest

Noel Puzey                     
Metdork                       
                               
ph 09 2632255 (w)              
   09 3682361 (h)            
   09 2632261 (fax)           
                              
                                        

------------------------------

From: "David J. Mercer" <merkin@sierra.net>
Subject: RE: Hesitation
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 18:02:32 -0700
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

	You mite want to check just for grins if the distributor output is =
properly lined up with the cylinders stroke, I have made that mistake =
before and it will hesitate, and is some what a pain to get the timing =
correct.  You may also want to check the vacuum advance. Check the =
manual for the proper alignment. Good luck

----------

David Mercer
PO BOX 2570
Olympic Valley CA 96146
ph  916-583-4150
fax 916-583-4829
merkin@sierra.net
53 S1 80"
57 S1 107" SW, FOR SALE
63 SII 88"
65 SII 88", FOR SALE
66 SII 88"
86 MB 280GE
------ =_NextPart_000_01BB6CF8.CA53CF40

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 22:44:42 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca>
Subject: Re: Hesitation

I would go back to the carb. if you have the hesitation and have the 
accellerator pump checked.  If you don't get that squirt of gas when you 
need it the vehicle boggs.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com>
Subject: BSROA Fall Heritage
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 22:08:23 -0400

An early reminder for planning purposes:

Due to cooperation with ROAV and its Mid-Atlantic Rally, The BSROA has =
planned the Fall Heritage Rally for the Columbus Day weekend in the =
beautiful Berkshires in Massachusetts for OCTOBER 11-13. PLEASE MARK =
YOUR CALENDARS.

Highlights for this year will include:

- Midnight Madness Run - a nifty trail ride at NIGHT! A real reason to =
use those extra Hellas and Piaas that never get used!

- Trials course

- Scenic off-road drive with lunch stop/barbeque

- Raffle and awards

- Pig roast

Members have already received a preliminary flyer  concerning this =
event.

Again, MARK your calendars. Non-members welcome - we can be contacted at =
BSROA, POB 342, North Scituate, MA 02060. Or ring us on 617-545-4743.

cheers
Jim - Better living through mud

`67 2A 88 5.0L hybrid
`67 2A 109 5.0L hybrid
`67 2A lightweight
`68 2B 110 F/C diesel
`70 P6B 3500S
`90 Range Rover County
`93 NAS D110 (#457/500)
`95 NAS D90 #1958
`96 Disco SE7(M)

P.S. - ULTIMATE RUMOR DEPT:  A birdie told me that Charlie Hughes' NAS =
D110 (Mr. Hughes is CEO of LRNA) #001/500 (!!) might be coming on the =
market!! If I hear of anything more solid along the rumor line, I will =
post immediately!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Jul 1996 23:16:22
From: CarDoctor@gnn.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: Wanted died or alive,  Part or Whole a 109 project LR

Hi All,
 Well the bug has bitten another friend who wants me to help them find a 109
LR.  Three or Five door.  Because of their limited cash they are willing to 
look at what they can affort for about 2000 - 2500 dollars.  Year seem 
unimportant but they like the older lights in the grill.  The guy can weld 
so a repairable frame is good.
  Is there any one out there who wants to incourage his hope of finding a LR 
send me some email for him.
  I guess they have helped me to much & wants a payback.

Regards,    
 Rob Davis_chicago
      

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 21:27:52 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Meeting at Billing

At 11:15 PM 7/8/96 +0200, Luc Rokegem wrote:
>Some people want to meet at Billings, but it will be difficult to find
>each other So I'm suggesting that we meet each other at the LRO-stand.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>I suggest so late because it will be probably not so buzzy anymore.
>Stay outside on the entry.

Five on Saturday sounds fine by me

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com   <- NOTE NEW ADDRESS

Celebrating my tenth year on Usenet/Internet

------------------------------

From: Land_Rovers@learnlink.emory.edu (Sean P. Murphy)
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 00:39:20 -0400
Subject: Re: BSROA Fall Heritage

roverhed@m3.pcix.com,Internet writes:
> P.S. - ULTIMATE RUMOR DEPT:  A birdie told me that Charlie Hughes' NAS =
> D110 (Mr. Hughes is CEO of LRNA) #001/500 (!!) might be coming on the =
> market!! If I hear of anything more solid along the rumor line, I will =
> post immediately!

Fraid not.  LRNA1 Defender 110 belongs to Land Rover North Pointe here
in Atlanta.  I don't know what his actual number is.  I bet it's a
pre-production!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jul 1996 06:52:16 +0200
From: Franz Zammit Haber <fzh@maltanet.omnes.net>
Subject: Re: 4th gear poping out

At 23:06 7/7/96 +-200, you wrote:
>Hi fellow Rovers:

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>My Landy (1980 SIII) as been developing the nasty habit of disengaging the 4th
>gear when climbing a hill (with 6 adults in it) and rolling at 60-70 Kms/h.
Can I
>consider this normal (!) or is my beast developing some problem. 
>I have no OD, all gears engage well and it only disengages when climbing hills
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
>BECAUSE LAND ROVERS LAST! :-)
>hello joao

it seems that your rover has arrived for a gearbox overhaul. your problem is
that the bearings on the main shaft have worn out causing the main input shaft
to have a little play, thus causing the third and forth syncro hub not to be 
exactly alined . i think you shoud pull the gearbox out of the vehicle and
repair it before its to late . as you can cause more damage to the rest of the
gearbox . i have a s111 as well and have pulled out the gearbox several times
always to find out i broke somthing new. so good luck and i hope i have been
of some help

patrick zammit haber Malta.
e-mail fzh@maltanet.omnes.net
land rover s111 109" 1974 Tdi power

old rovers never die!!!!!
;-)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jul 1996 06:52:40 +0200
From: Franz Zammit Haber <fzh@maltanet.omnes.net>
Subject: Re: 4th gear poping out

At 23:06 7/7/96 +-200, you wrote:
>Hi fellow Rovers:

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>My Landy (1980 SIII) as been developing the nasty habit of disengaging the 4th
>gear when climbing a hill (with 6 adults in it) and rolling at 60-70 Kms/h.
Can I
>consider this normal (!) or is my beast developing some problem. 
>I have no OD, all gears engage well and it only disengages when climbing hills
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
>BECAUSE LAND ROVERS LAST! :-)
>hello joao

it seems that your rover has arrived for a gearbox overhaul. your problem is
that the bearings on the main shaft have worn out causing the main input shaft
to have a little play, thus causing the third and forth syncro hub not to be 
exactly alined . i think you shoud pull the gearbox out of the vehicle and
repair it before its to late . as you can cause more damage to the rest of the
gearbox . i have a s111 as well and have pulled out the gearbox several times
always to find out i broke somthing new. so good luck and i hope i have been
of some help

patrick zammit haber Malta.
e-mail fzh@maltanet.omnes.net
land rover s111 109" 1974 Tdi power

old rovers never die!!!!!
;-)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 00:02:54 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Micro-Machines (LR Toy)

>  The level of detail is very convincing and proportionatly the truck is
>  correct.  

Unless this is a new one, it seems squished to me.  wider and flatter than 
it should be.  Otherwise, nice, but not the easiest to find.  

Hot wheels also has a new variation of their Range Rover.  It's red, with 
flames painted on it.  (Look for the cards with NEW in big letters in the 
upper left corner.)

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Temp gauges & Wobbly Wheels
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 96 9:29:43 BST

Hi all!

I've decided what I'm going to do about my dud water temp. gauge.
Will a 12V one fit in the "mil" cluster which I have?
If so, I'd build a quick little 12V regulator (I'm a 24V FFR), to run
the 12V gauge and sender.
The only other problem:  What is the *minimum* impedance of the gauge and
sender? I need to know, so that I can calculate the design current for the
regulator (I suspect a 0.5 amp chip will do the job).

Oh, and where the heck is the temp. sender unit? My books aren't very helpful
in this matter. I've managed to find the oil one, but not the water one...

Also, does anyone have any clues about my wobbly wheel. Its a bit worrying that
it managed to come loose like it did.

Richard   (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

From: Danny Phillips <danny@tlpgate.lonpar.co.uk>
Subject: Re: hesitation on acceleration
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 96 9:52:32 BST

hi, i think the chap with the hesitation under load could well have a dodgy 
distributer. my wife and i had the same problem in a golf soft top she had just
bought. foot flat to the floor and it tried to kangeroo everywhere, gentle
progression and she was fine.

we bought a second hand distributor and arranged to have it fixed and the week
before an artic totalled the car for us.

oh well every cloud has a silver lining, we bought a better golf with the 
insurance :-)

danny

------------------------------

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