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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 21:39:45 +1000 (EST)
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: engine swaps

There are some experiences at
      <URL: http://www.sofcom.com.au/4WD/Conv/Conv.html>
I'd second the comments about raising the gear ratio
with a bigger engine.  It's hard to end up with a "balanced"
vehicle unless you tinker with transmission, diff ratio's
or overdrive, cooling system, ...

Lloyd

------------------------------

From: Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 12:57:08 +0000
Subject: Waxoyl alternatives

After all the Yanks complaining they cant get Waxoyl, I had a chat 
with my brothe when he visited fro Utah last week. He uses roofing 
tar. Seems reasonable since we use to use bitumen paint on gear we 
were going to throw in the sea.........

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Jul 1996 08:13:26 EDT
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Half shafts & engine swaps

I have never broken a half shaft in my 140 BHP V6 lightweight. I don't
understand how people manage to break half shafts on a regular basis
with a 2.25 engine.

I would put it down to my extreme smoothness & driving skill, which is
normally the case :-) but every so often I do give it a load of stick
(like every time I exit a roundabout, bend or overtake). I can smoke my
rear tyres, out accelerate all sorts of things and I have never had a
problem. Well I did strip the crown wheel and pinion in the diff once...

As far an engine swaps go it's fine if you know your stuff, but even
buying a converted car (as opposed to doing it yourself) is a potential
can of worms. As Mike said, it's all the little bits that are the
problem.

Every time you need parts it complicates things. You walk into the local
car parts shop and ask for a overhead flange wibbler (or something
similar) for a Granada (where my engine came from). The first question
is which year, I reply dunno. They ask what registration letter is it, I
dunno. They ask is it early or late, once more I dunno.

You can see the blood pressure rising and they ask to have a look. I say
fine, it's the big green one. But that's not a Granada they say...

The best thing I did to my LR was fit the V6 (the next best thing will
be putting it back together), but it has been a lot of bother.

Have a long talk with your son, but don't be too hard as he is probably
cacking his pants as he knows there is something wrong that he is
probably responsible for. I still remember breaking a light on my Dad's
car. The fear of retribution was something else.

Keep smiling, Steve

Steve Reddock, Xyratex        |  "NEVER QUESTION AN
Ext.(01705) 486363 x5209      |   ENGINEER'S OPINION,
IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P)            |   YOU THUNDERING MORON !"
Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com  |     - Dogbert 1996

------------------------------

From: DTischer@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 08:45:26 -0400
Subject: Highlift jack for Disco.

>A mechanic at my local Land Rover dealer advised me not to use a High Lift 
>Jack on my new Disco for fear of damaging the bumpers. Does anyone know if 
>there are attachments available for either the bumpers or the frame area
that
>would permit the safe use of a High Lift jack? Are there are other high lift
>devices available that would be more suitable for use on a Disco? I plan to
do 
>some surf fishing this summer at the New Jersey shore and sand always
presents
>the risk of getting stuck.

I've seen a websight for another highlift device... Some kind of balloon jack
that you just slide between your truck and the mud and hook up to a pump.
 Can't remember the address, sorry.  But a search for Jacks should find it.
 Anybody ever used one? 

I've got a highlift for my Defender and it works pretty nicely except for
when trying to lift both rear wheels at once - kind of an all your life's
worth to be on either side of it.  I saw a hook arrangement advertised in LRO
for lifting Land Rovers, but I don't know about Discos.  High lift also sells
a hook for slotted bumpers for about 16 bucks.     

Just remember that bumpers were named for a reason, and just hope there's
enough of your bumper above the mud the get the highlift jack under.  That
airpump thing sounds interesting for this type of thing, but I'd be worried
that it'd blow up somewhere between stuck and unstuck.

------------------------------

From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@biddeford.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 09:20:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Downeast LR Rally

On  1 Jul 96 at 8:25, barnett childress wrote:

> Hi All,
> I know it's only Monday morning but...Only five more days till Downeast!
> Cheers, 
> Barnett

Just a thought for those coming from the South.  There is a lot of 
construction on Route 1 between Brunswick and Bath, and traffic over the 
Bath bridge is never good on a summer weekend let alone the 4th of July.  
If you are going to be coming through at a bad traffic time, (midday),  
you might consider staying on I-95 and getting to the Rockland area by way 
of Gardiner or Augusta and route 17.  Slightly farther, and no guarantees, but it may save some 
frustration and hot head temperatures.

Hope to meet some of you there on Sunday.  Mine is the wrinkled IIa 88 
painted Soylent Green.

Ron Franklin

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 06:54:08 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Rear sliding window anyone?

At  9:46 PM 6/30/96 -0500, harincar@internet.mdms.com wrote:

>Anyone have a spare rear sliding window they like to sell? Or the dimensions
>for one for an 88 (if different from a 109) including the hole diameter for the
>lock.
;
Tim, If you have not found one by the end of July, check with me during the
first week of Aug when I'm back from the Billing UK meet before I head off
to Boston.  One of the things on my shopping list is a complete set of side
windows & channels.  If I get them, I'll have a set of windows to dispose
of.  There is some paint, & some scratches.  I've seen better, but they are
intact.

The 109 five door and 88 use the same sides.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com   <- NOTE NEW ADDRESS

Celebrating my tenth year on Usenet/Internet

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 96 09:06:06 -0600
Subject: Re: Transfer case problems

On Sat, 29 Jun 96 15:12:22 PDT, Wes Newman wrote:

>I have a 1967 109" NADA.  My 17 year old took it the other day and now when 
>I push the red lever forward it won't engage in 2 Wheel drive.  Red back or 
-
Does the tranny brake drum rotate when in 2wd? If so, most
likely you have a busted half-shaft. If so, replace both of
them. If it's not turning, then you most likely have a
linkage problem.

Tom Rowe
WI Center for Dairy Research
Madison, WI
608-265-6194   trowe@aae.wisc.edu

	Four wheel drive allows you to get
	stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com>
Subject: Re: Bimini Top
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 96 09:51:00 CDT

Sunblock?  Oh no,  I'm melting!  Wait it's raining...ahhhhhhh, that's 
better...   :)

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767
 ----------
From: LRO-Owner
Subject: Re: Bimini Top
Date: Saturday, June 29, 1996 8:30PM

No! Doug! Stop! Clear silicone caulk has acetic acid in it (smells like
vinegar) and will fershur cause some corrosion. I'd probably attach the
brackets with some nice pop rivets, and maybe dip 'em in some kind of primer
just before I used 'em. Enjoy the top, don't forget your sunblock!!

John Dillingham, Woodstock, GA
73 s3 SWB  (770)926-8314
72 s3 SWB rusted parts truck, mostly picked over
66 s2a SWB soft top "Red Rover" being minded for friend/customer
Vintage Rover Service
"Since 1994, over a dozen satisfied customers!"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Jul 1996 10:08:18 -0500
From: Paul Hanson <"HANSONPA@"@mail.milwaukee.k12.wi.us>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Owner-LRO-Digest@Land-Rove...PLEASE
	Please be sure to correct my e-mail address to :
	hansonpa@mail.milwaukee.k12.wi.us
	THANK YOU 
	I am really enjoying the daily digest!!!

>   -B

------------------------------

From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 13:23:37 -0400
Subject: Range Rover Age

 I know that this concerns a "coil" spring Rover But as it concerns a matter
of historical detail and I thought that I would ask all the "old fogies" on
this list first.
I have a VERY early Range Rover that I just imported from the UK.
Comm # 35500530a
And I was wondering if anyone knows of an earlier one in North America?
The reg is UWS 434 J and it is rumored to have been in the Rover press fleet
(poor thing).
Ps. I am planning to drive it up to the "Down East" towing my 80", The
sublime and the ridiculous.

Quintin Aspin
qrover80@aol.com

  More than sufficient projects for this lifetime.

------------------------------

From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 13:37:37 -0500
Subject: Re:  Range Rover Age

Quintin,

Is that the same one thats been in the RN newsletter for a couple months?

I thought that sounded pretty interesting. Let us know what you learn about
it. From what I remember people saying, *any* two-door RR is a pretty rare
thing here in NA...

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

From: SCLROVER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 15:24:35 -0400
Subject: Re: D-90 doors

Local dealer can put on 1995 door stops for you.  that ought a do it.

Tim

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 12:58:21 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Help with running on Zenith carb?

Well its back to tune up time and consequent calls for help.

Last evening I was doing the fine tuning on my Zenith (36IV?) equipped 
2.25 petrol and ended up with a problem.  After the ignition is shut 
off the engine continues to run on.  (This was also an occasional 
problem before doing the fine tuning).

Initially the engine would stall out at any temperature (including 
after warm up) when the choke was put back.  Following the shop manual, 
I adjusted the throttle linkage screw to maintain an approximate 500 
rpm idle.  I turned the idle adjustment screw out a bit and settled on 
about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn to stabilize the engine a bit (by guess 
according to engine sound/feel).  (Induction light timing check 
revealed the engine timing to be just about correct).

I'll try to take another shot at it tonight (making sure the induction 
timing is perfect) but was hoping someone might have some advice.

I know the later Zeniths had an anti-dieseling solenoid.  This unit 
does not.  Is this the source of the problem?  Do I need to install 
such a solenoid?  The carb. is new so wear should not be a problem.
Also I have not yet disassembled it to shut off the possible alternate 
flow hole as per BP's advice.  Another potential source of trouble?

cheers,

Jeremy

P.S.  At 500 rpm idle I noticed oil pressure was down to 25 psi.  Is 
this normal?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Jul 96 16:34:39 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@INETMAIL.ushmm.org>
Subject: more frameover spew...

     Last week I finally gave up waiting for my parts from CA, so I called 
     the vendor, only to discover that they had been sent to my old address 
     in DC... AARGH. I had them resend it by UPS 3 day select. After it 
     didn't come the 3rd day, I called 'em and found that they hadn't even 
     sent it yet. What's the point of 3 day shipping if it takes 3 days to 
     get out the door? Oh well, they "Next Dayed" it and it got here 
     Friday. New thermostat, engine gaskets, brake adjusters, fuel pump 
     screen, etc, etc,...basically everything I needed to get the motor 
     back together. I redid the cork seals on the rear main bearing cap 
     (it's easy when you know how!!), I cleaned all the crud out of and 
     hammered out the dent in the oil pan. Now all evidence of what must 
     have been a BIG collision with a rock is gone. The other bit was an 
     engine crossmember that looked like it had been torpedoed. It's almost 
     sad to see the Green Car's battle scars erased like that. They did 
     tell a story...Oh well, the amount of gunk build-up on the downhill 
     side of the dent in the sump was pretty awe-inspiring. At least now 
     I'll be able to drain all my oil, instead of having it fossilize in 
     the engine. Enought about that. I bolted the sump back on, picked the 
     engine back upright and gave the ol' lump a final wipe with lacquer 
     thinner before applying an entire can of Krylon gray primer. Then it 
     was on to the brake adjusters, which at 20 some bucks for a whole kit 
     were a good deal. Easy enough to put on and they look like they'll 
     work for a while. Then I pressed the speedisleeve on to the engine 
     front pulley, so that hopefully I wont have to replace the seal as 
     often as Jack did...Then I emptied another can of spray paint, this 
     time Krylon Jade Green, what a pretty color :) It's not a bad match 
     for the original, but it is going to look funny for a while with all 
     that old dirty stuff bolted to it. At least I'll be able to see where 
     my leaks are...got the rear brakes all rebuilt AGAIN and the shoes 
     back on with new screws, hopefully the last time I have to do that. 
     Got the "new" front shoes scuffed up and ready to put on, about that 
     point I realized it was pushing 11pm and I still had to pack up all my 
     tools and camping gear for the trip up to Downeast...
     
     I'll be driving up solo in a borrowed good condition 109 SW, leaving 
     from the Boston area Thursday night or Friday morning. What's the 
     camping situation like there and will there be many people there 
     early? Do I need to call the campsite or can I just show up. Will 
     anybody there want to talk to me or should I bring some sort of 
     imaginary puppet friend? :)
     
     Cheers
     
     Dave "Printing out the BBlist" B.
     Dave "Printing

------------------------------

From: "S. Vels" <svels@mail-server.dk-online.dk>
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 23:33:13 +0001
Subject: Re: Lro list WW (Now Brakes)

Welcome to the list.

> The second problem are the Brakes at my vehicle. It is one of this high
> modern splittet Brakesystem with failure switch.

Very confusing this high technology.
 
> to 3 time to get good deceleration. There is no air in the system and i
> had replaced many parts including brake liners.
 
> I think that die brake drumms are to wide and i had to move the liners in
> the first push to the drumm and then the second push will brake.
> But I adjusted the brakes very hard.
 
Try and check the orientation of the snail cams on the 
adjustment screws. One of mine was fitted reverse causing me to think 
that "this is as good as it gets". Did you get a new master cylinder? 
If so it may need adjustment to the pedal as well.

No air?. 109's can be fun to bleed. A good trick is to have someone 
pump the brake real hard and step on it. When you loosen the bleed 
screw, trapped air will shoot out. Repeat a few times.

rgds
sv/aurens

 

------------------------------

From: "David J. Mercer" <merkin@sierra.net>
Subject: RE: more frameover spew...
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 15:34:42 -0700
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

	Another good color is "Krylon Alpine Green or Detroit Green" for =
engines, and they make it in high temperature. And scenic we are on the =
topic of paint I just put this stuff on the frame of my 80" made by =
"Devoe Coatings" it part of their "Marine-Industrial-Offshore" line of =
products. The stuff I used was "Devran 230 black, High Build Epoxy =
Coating". It comes in two parts which will make about a gallon, and =
costs about 30$ whole-sale. It kind of looks like Henrys wet patch but =
drys extremely hard and supposedly won't chip? Well we will see.

----------

David Mercer
PO BOX 2570
Olympic Valley CA 96146
ph  916-583-4150
fax 916-583-4829
merkin@sierra.net
53 S1 80"
57 S1 107" SW, FOR SALE
63 SII 88"
65 SII 88", FOR SALE
66 SII 88"
86 MB 280GE
------ =_NextPart_000_01BB6762.D687CAA0

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 17:55:22 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca>
Subject: Re: Help with running on Zenith carb?

I am having the same problem with the engine running on after it is 
turned off.  I have done all the usual things like adjust the carb, the 
valves etc.  The plugs look dry and just the way they should.  I suspect 
my problem is that when I installed the electric fuel pump, I bought the 
one with too high a pressure.  The foreign cars like ours need about 2 
lbs of pressure I think and I believe the one I bought might be as high 
as 5 lbs.  This could I suspect push a bit of fuel past the float valve 
and let it get into the engine allowing it to run on.  It isn't a big 
thing to put the vehicle in gear before turning it off and letting it 
stall out, but I would like to solve the problem.  I think I am going to 
trade the pump with my son who has a V8 Chev hot rod that could use the 
pump and order the very low pressure model just to see.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 19:42:25 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Downeast

David B. asked about camping for the Downeast Rally.
        The Rover camprgound is in Northport Maine about 10 miles north of
Camden, and about 20 miles from the Museum and Off Road day. They can be
reached at 207.789.5135. You should probably call them.

        Things look good for Sat. Off Road Day. *never seen so much food in
one place!* Hopefully everyone has called and confirmed...Remember NO
confirmation...NO entry! Alan has, at the request of those last year, made
a harder section of trail... BTW, bring good tires for that section! Looks
like 130 plus Rovers for our Off Road Day, and about 175 plus for the
DownEast Sun.
        See you all there!

        The museum has just confirmed that a Stealth F-117A will be coming
for the air show.

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 09:40:39 -0900
From: scholes@modemss.brisnet.org.au (David  R Scholes)
Subject: Heater Controls

I know this is probably the dumbest question ever posted. Can anyone tell
me how the two heater controls on the RH side of my SIII dash work. I've
tried all sorts of combinations (up/up, up/down,down/down, etc) to little
effect

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 20:01:39 -0400
Subject: Urgent appeal!

Bob Morrison, military correspondent for LROI magazine, needs to be picked up
at Logan Airport, Boston, at 5 PM on Friday, July 5th, and then given a ride
to Owl's Head and Down East vicinity. He will be covering the events for the
magazine. If you are able to help, please call Myles Murphy for specific
details at: 207-789-5303. ASAP...
see 'ya on the old road...
Jim '60 P5  Mk1 LHD 4 spd w/OD (628000165)   "Olive(r)"
       '68 P6 SC Auto
       '68 P6 TC
       '61 LR 88" SW  w/ 16's, OD 1 Bbl weber (econobox?)  "Nicky"
       '84 RR  
LR...quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised!  

------------------------------

From: g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald)
Subject: Re: Urgent appeal!
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 00:27:31 GMT

On Mon, 1 Jul 1996 20:01:39 -0400, you wrote:

>Bob Morrison, military correspondent for LROI magazine, needs to be picked up
>at Logan Airport, Boston, at 5 PM on Friday, July 5th, and then given a ride
>to Owl's Head and Down East vicinity. He will be covering the events for the
>magazine. If you are able to help, please call Myles Murphy for specific

He is spoken for.

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 21:35:04 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: National rallys

Regarding all the talk on various "national" rallys, maybe it's time to 
start talking about and planning a true "national" rally for 1998 - the 50th 
anniversary of Land-Rover.  ...Too bad that Rovers seem to be concentrated 
at the extremities of the nation....

ROAV's Mid-Atlantic rally is October 5-6, though things will be rolling 
Friday thru Monday.  Cheers

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 21:04:53 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca>
Subject: Re: National rallys

I would like to see something in the centre for once myself.  Centre 
could be like Montana or South Dakota or Kansas for example and that 
would let everyone have some kind of equal drive to get there.  I would 
love to get to Owl's Head, but Manitoba to Owl's Head would be like 
driving from London to the Urals.  For me that would be something like 
2500 miles one way!  Maybe I will have to trail my vehicle one day.  I 
have always wanted to attend the Ham Radio Convention in Dayton but it 
too is quite far and they arn't at the same time of the year.  I guess we 
can only dream. Perhaps some enterprising types could tape the big rally 
on VHS so we hinterland Land Rover types could at least see who everyone 
is and see some of the fun.  I could see spending $20 for that kind of 
tape if it was well done.  Anyone else want to put in a request and maybe 
someone who does this for a living might take us up?  Maybe even a swap 
and shop web page for parts with scanned pictures might be a good idea.  
Oh well just dreaming out here on the prairies :-)   Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 21:30:18 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca>
Subject: Left hand drive vs Right hand drive

This is probably a stupid question but in what order are the brake and 
clutch pedals in a right hand drive vehicle?  I drove a vehicle in 
England for three weeks some years ago but I can't remember on which side 
the brake was.  I can't say I noticed any problem shifting with my left 
hand however.  Is the gas pedal next to the centre firewall or is it on 
the door side of the foot well?  I guess I could go and fetch the shop 
manual but why when I have all you experts right from Limeyland on tap.  
By the way is anyone near Whitstable (sp?) in the south.  I need the name 
and address of the boys foundling home there but any mail I have sent 
always comes back address unknown.  Any Land Rover things to see around 
there?  I hope to be there next year.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 22:54:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: SRIIA Windshield

Well, I got all the pieces parts back from the galvanizer today and went
back to reassembling the beast. The IT happened: After laying a bead of
that black tarry stuff to the inside of the windshield frame I took a step
backwards (to admire my work); and landed on top of the left hand side
piece of glass. "Oh darn," I said. Can I get a new piece of this stuff cut
anywbere, or do I have to go to RN, AB, BP? It's that DOT safety glass with
the plastic film in the middle. Ideas?

Chris Stevens
Towson, MD

------------------------------

From: Rick.Crider@trellis.net
Date: 1 Jul 1996 23:18:20 EDT
Subject: SRIIA Windshield

LA>Well, I got all the pieces parts back from the galvanizer today and went
LA>back to reassembling the beast. The IT happened: After laying a bead of
LA>that black tarry stuff to the inside of the windshield frame I took a step
LA>backwards (to admire my work); and landed on top of the left hand side
LA>piece of glass. "Oh darn," I said. Can I get a new piece of this stuff cut
LA>anywbere, or do I have to go to RN, AB, BP? It's that DOT safety glass with
LA>the plastic film in the middle. Ideas?

LA>Chris Stevens
LA>Towson, MD

Chris......
Being that the windshield is flat safety plate, most any local auto
glass shop should be able to fix you right up......probably while you
wait.   If it were a perfect square or rectangle you could simply give
them the measurments, however, on this one you'll need to give them a
pattern to go by...either the old piece if it's still in one sheet,  a
tracing of the hole, or perhaps the other side which should be a
mirrror image of the broken one.   Good luck with it.
Cordially:
Rick Crider  KD4FXA
Monroe NC
'65 Slla 88"   'Virgil'  .......for sale......
73  SIII  88"   'Jesse'   ......just too nice for it's purpose.........
88  Range Rover   ......the daily mule.......
...and former owner of Hugo, the 109".....sold Sunday and on his voyage
to the Chicago area with his new owner, Hank Gregory........

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 20:12:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: scooper@scooper.seanet.com (Sandy Cooper)
Subject: Old sightings

There was this Green military style series land-rover pick-up 109 (military
tires and all) in Moscow Idaho (not Russia).  This was around 1985 and the
plates were Vermont.  Also present were Rovers-North stickers....great rig
but I never did meet the owner.
About 1974 I spotted a series 11 or 11a 109 tan station wagon at the Moscow
Idaho public library, never met the owner though.
A green 109 5 door series rig belongs, or used to, a professor or virology
at Washington State WSU. I tried to buy it many years ago, he would`nt sell.
There seemed to be about 8 to 10 series landys in the Moscow-Pullman area of
the Northwest over a span of 20 years or so, though this number seems to be
diminishing as I`m responsible for taking one to the seattle area.
I`ve spotted over 40 series vehicles in the Seattle area although this has
been over a perid of 7 years.
South Florda seemed almost devoid of series rigs as I only spotted 6-7 in a
3 year span.
California seems to have a good amount.  Saw several in the Carmel area
(made my day).                           John Cooper 1969 11a (eyes
open...sometimes)

------------------------------

From: LRRobDog@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 23:24:02 -0400
Subject: Series I for Sale

Very Rare Series I 80” Land Rover For Sale

Unfortunately, due to circumstances beyond my control, I have to let go of
this project car.  It  has 90-percent original Land Rover parts, but it
doesn’t run. Experts don’t exactly agree on the year, but popular consensus
is 1951 or 1952.  It has been garaged in California for the last four years.
$1500 or best offer.  E-mail LRROBDOG@aol.com for more information.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 23:26:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: rovah@agate.net (John Cassidy)
Subject: CB's and electrics

I'm hoping that you folks with radio gear in your Rovers already can offer
some good advice.  I'm planning on mounting both a Uniden scanner and a
CB(of some type) in the RR.  What's the best way to power these
things...should I run power to a dedicated block in the interior somewhere,
or can I safely tap into/onto some other line that's powered?  Also, as
concerns CB's, what features and power output should I be looking for?
Lastly, what's the best way to mount an antenna?  Roof mount, gutter,
magnetic, glass?  Also, can my scanner and CB share the same antenna, or do
I need two?

Thanks for any help!  John

John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA

2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover, 1966 Series IIA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 20:38:00 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Left hand drive vs Right hand drive

At 09:30 PM 7/1/96 -0500, David Place <dplace@sirnet.mb.ca> wrote:
:This is probably a stupid question but in what order are the brake and 
:clutch pedals in a right hand drive vehicle?

 Fortunately that's one thing that hasn't been reinvented by the Brit's :)
 The pedals are in the same order as in a western car, ie clutch on the
 left, brake in the middle, and gas on the right.  The tranny levers are
 in the same location.  I understand that the '97 Discos will have the
 pedals reversed, jusdt for fun I suppose, or something about English
 Leather wearing disproportionatly... or is that just a vicious rumor?

 Cheers,
                         ______
 Michael Carradine       [__[__\==                    Rumpole of the Bay
 510-988-0900            [________]               Land-Rover Roughmobile
 cs@crl.com  __________.._(o)__.(o)____...o^^^  '65 IIA 2.235m (was 88")
 _______________________________________________________________________
 Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page:   http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 00:45:46 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: more frameover spew...

Dave Bobeck sez...

     I'll be driving up solo in a borrowed good condition 109 SW, leaving 
     from the Boston area Thursday night or Friday morning. What's the 
     camping situation like there and will there be many people there 
     early? Do I need to call the campsite or can I just show up. Will 
     anybody there want to talk to me or should I bring some sort of 
     imaginary puppet friend? :)

I think the "Old Mass Homestead" campground is the place of choice. Just
follow the trail of 90Wt...

Yup Dave... we'll talk to you... but as to your puppet friend, I don't want
to know about it!! Keep that stuff in your tent, OK?

Cheers
Mike
 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 00:45:48 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Heater Controls

David Scholes asks...

>I know this is probably the dumbest question ever posted. Can anyone tell
>me how the two heater controls on the RH side of my SIII dash work. I've
>tried all sorts of combinations (up/up, up/down,down/down, etc) to little
>effect

Heat? You want heat? You see, the problem is that you are in Oz, but the
truck doesn't know that. It only produces heat it what would be the Northern
Hemisphere's Winter. Sorry.

OK... I don't even remember how the SIII controls are laid out, but each
lever has a knob with a wee picture of a triangle. The triangle is red on
one and blue on the other. The red one controls the heat - move it in the
direction of the widest part of the triangle for the most heat. The blue one
controls the air flow to the lower vents.. again, the widest part of the
triangle for the most flow. When you shut off the air flow to the lower
vents, all the air flow goes to the defroster vents (in theory). Making the
assumption that the heater motor actually runs and you get an air flow, you
probably should confirm that moving the red lever actually opens the heater
water valve - which is probably located on the engine at the top-front of
the head. If the valve does open and you still get no heat, then maybe you
have a plugged heater core. A couple of other problems which would prevent
you from getting heat are a low coolant level or the thermostat is stuck
open, preventing the engine from getting hot enough to produce heat.

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 22:30:01 -0700
From: Blair Gillespie <Gillespie@thegrid.net>
Subject: CB's

        Somthing that I saw in the magazine " Overlander" from Australia
really caught my eye. They seem to have alot of companies that make cool
after market parts. The company I saw made plastic center dash consoles that
fit both the Disco and the RR and were made to fit multiple radio
components. The consoles were made to match the dash and looked stock.They
made it easy to run wires because it mounted over the center cubby thing
that is in the middle of a RR dash.
        You can find that magazine at Barnes&Noble

                Rover On,
                        Blair

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 08:07:57 +0200 (MET DST)
From: nobody@REPLAY.COM (Anonymous)
Subject: Electrical Problems... what else?

I need a diagnosis from all you LR doctors out there.  I have a SIII with the 2.25 petrol engine.  Today it was driving fine until I turned on the headlights.  Then the engine died.  Now when I try to start, it fires, starts to run, then dies.  Any ideas?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 23:10:34 -0700
From: fhyap@ix.netcom.com (Franklin H. Yap )
Subject: Re: CB's

You wrote: 

>        You can find that magazine at Barnes&Noble

Which Barnes & Noble?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 23:18:09 -0700
From: fhyap@ix.netcom.com (Franklin H. Yap )
Subject: Europarts

Europarts prices appear to be quite good (low) but you should be 
careful when ordering parts that may be not suitable for a US spec LR 
model.

Several months ago, Europarts had an Internet special, 7% off their 
already low prices (end of March/April 96?). This was too good to 
resist so I ordered a set of mats plus a rear load space protector.  As 
it turns out, the LR load space protector for a rest of the world LR 
does not fit the US (D110)spec vehicle.  Doesn’t make sense but the 
vertical lip does not extend high enough and cuts into the carpet, 
there is a 4x3 raised corner on one side that prevents the jump seat 
bars from extending, and the back edge runs into the rear tool kit (but 
could be fixed by trimming). 

The rear mats also do not fit the NAS model because of the interior 
roll bar.  I will have to trim and somehow make an edge/lip at anyplace 
I trim because I can’t afford to have any liquid run off the mats into 
the RUST prone bars.

Europarts were quite receptive about the return of the load space 
protector (as they should be because it was not suitable for its 
intended purpose).  However, I never got the 7% discount on my order 
(despite having asked for it) and, with the shipping charges for the 
load space protector, am out $30+ for what should have been a simple 
transaction.

------------------------------

From: SCLROVER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 03:17:12 -0400
Subject: Re: ? Securing Equipment to D90's 

Kelvin,

CB Atenae-  I made a bracket that uses the top two bolts of the spare wheel
carrier for my antenae with good results.  That way you don't have to put
holes in the rear quarter panel.

5 gallon Jerry Can- Get a new british military style with the sealing top.  I
have left mine on it's side in the rear of my Rover and never smelt fumes.
 Be sure to secure it.

Tool Box - I use a Pelican Case, a air tight plastic case usually used for
photo equipment etc.  With the Jerry can behind my seat(standing up), and the
Tool box (lying flat) next to it, they are pretty much wedged in and don't
move around when bouncing down even the rockiest of trails.

Fire Extinguisher - main thing, is to have it somewhere accessable.  Roll bar
is only a good idea if you get a metal bracket instead of the chincey plastic
strap types.  I keep mine right behind my seat mounted to the floor.
 Somewhere on the passenger side floor is a good location too, but with the
AC already taking up valuble foot space, I opted for behind my seat.

Rove ON!!!!!

Tim
SCLR

I

------------------------------

From: SCLROVER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 03:37:37 -0400
Subject: SCLR Caravan to Crested Butte

Hello all!

Sothern California Land Rover is planning to caravan to Colorodo on the 5th
of Aug. Our route will take us through Utah where we will spend a day or two
of wheeling in Moab.  Our list of vehicles as of today includes:

2 series IIa 88"s
2 D90SW
3D90 Rags
1 RR
1 Series IIa 109"

Anyone interested in joining up with us out of L.A. or somewhere along the
way, let us know.  

email SCLRover@aol.com

Rove On!!

Tim Bowman
Chief Knucklehead
Southern California Land Rover

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 10:06:23 +0200
From: David Bothe <bothe@itz-koeln.de>
Subject: Frame Replacement

Helo everybody!

I have got an SIII V8 Station, and the frame is pretty rosty. So I want to replace it. I found a 
used SIII V8 PickUp-Frame, which seems to be OK. 

Now the Question: Does the PickUp-Frame fit with the Station-Frame? If so, could somebody tell me 
his experiences in frame-changing? Perhaps some tips?

Thanx,

David Bothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 19:05:49 +1000 (EST)
From: Thomas Cooper <q9620149@helios.usq.edu.au>
Subject: Towing points

What is the best place to attach towing hooks to the front of a series IIa?

On my series IIa there are four holes drilled through the chassis rails at 
the very front which the front bumper is bolted to.

This seems to be the obvious point. Are hooks available drilled correctly for
these holes ? ( preferably in Australia!)

Any other suggestions welcome.

Tom Cooper 1971 109 petrol

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 11:25:23 +0000
From: Craig Morgan <C.Morgan@soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Towing points

At 9:05 am +0000 2/7/96, you wrote:

>What is the best place to attach towing hooks to the front of a series IIa?

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
>Any other suggestions welcome.
>Tom Cooper 1971 109 petrol

You can purchase LR tow/lift points (ie. loops) which attach direct to
these points on the front. Craddock's is currently selling them at approx.
20 sterling, I'll check on the part number ...

--
Craig

                            ,,,   Wot, NO mountains!
 ======================oOO=(o o)=OOo===================================
  Craig Morgan              (_)      Senior Lecturer, CS Group
  School of Computing                Email: C.Morgan@soc.staffs.ac.uk
  Staffordshire University           Phone: +44 (0)1785 353466
  Beaconside                         Fax:   +44 (0)1785 353497
  Stafford, UK  ST18 0DG             Pager: +44 (0)839 453754

  "It's the downhill thrills, that make the uphill slog worthwhile..."
 ======================================================================

------------------------------

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