Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 07:35:53 EDT
From: "Fireman Sam" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Fire extinguishers

Hi, the best fire extinguisher for a car is BCF (halon). It is getting
hard to find as it is a CFC. It still causes less pollution than a
burning car though. You should have a 2.5 KG size.

Next best is AFFF (foam). I can't remember the weight recommended for
these, but I think it is similar to BCF.

CO2 is not so good as it is not good for people.

BCF will put you out at a lower concentration than it puts out fires.
You do not want to spray it inside the car with the windows shut! GET
OUT, but you knew that anyway 'cos it's on fire.

Dry powder is OK but messy. The 0.8KG ones you get in Halfords do not
spray for long enough to put out a cigarette :-)

Anything less that 2.5 KG BCF (or equivalent AFFF) is barely worth
bothering with. You will not be able to tackle anything apart from very
minor fires with anything less.

Even with the right kit running away is often the best action.

Cheers, Steve

Steve Reddock, Xyratex
Ext.(01705) 486363 x5209
IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P)
Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Fire extinguishers
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 96 12:45:04 BST

> CO2 is not so good as it is not good for people.
> BCF will put you out at a lower concentration than it puts out fires.

As I was about to say - if CO2 is bad for people, what about halon!  :-)

> Dry powder is OK but messy. The 0.8KG ones you get in Halfords do not
> spray for long enough to put out a cigarette :-)

Mine wasn't the smallest. It wasn't the biggest they had either, mind you.
Going by the original strap (now removed), I think mine's about the same 
size as the original mil. extinguisher. (perhaps slightly larger)
I was planning to fit it in the strap, but the strap wasn't *quite* big enough.

Richard

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 96 07:54:47 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: All this mail!!!!!!!!

>>Help...... how do I turn it off?????

Paul Hancock 

Subscribe to the LRO digest version. Anybody care to tell Paul the command? I 
can't remember what it is for the digest.

Dave

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 96 07:13:57 -0600
Subject: Re: Fire extinguishers

Putting on my old firefighter's helmet (doesn't fit too well anymore though, it melted in a 
house fire I was tending to some years back)

On Thu, 27 Jun 1996 07:35:53 EDT, Fireman Sam wrote:

>Hi, the best fire extinguisher for a car is BCF (halon). 
snip

Next best is AFFF (foam). I can't remember the weight recommended for
these, but I think it is similar to BCF.

CO2 is not so good as it is not good for people.

BCF will put you out at a lower concentration than it puts out fires.
You do not want to spray it inside the car with the windows shut! GET
OUT, but you knew that anyway 'cos it's on fire.

Dry powder is OK but messy. The 0.8KG ones you get in Halfords do not
>spray for long enough to put out a cigarette :-)

I will disagree on this one. Halon is great stuff for not leaving any residue (that's why it's 
used around electronics) but it (and Co2) will snuff you out too (s Sam warned). And on a 
flammable liquid fire it (and Co2) is not as good as dry chem. The reason is that if there is 
any material hotter than the ignition point of the liquid (hot metal for instance) when your 
extinguisher is empty, the liquid will reignite. Even if it was completly out. Dry chem will 
remain on the surface of the liquid ( and on the metal to a certain degree) and keep it from 
reigniting.

Foam will work better than dry chem for liquids, but it can freeze and you usually don't need 
that much coverage in a car fire. That's assuming you attack the fire before it spreads a lot. 
One of the reasons fire Departments cary foam is that the fire usually has a big head start and 
has spread more. Often it's mixed on site, also. Additionally, foam is a no-no on electrical 
fires.

With dry chem be careful how you apply it. Too close to a flammable liquid, and you can actually 
spread the fire from the pressure of the stream. And aim at the BASE of the fire. If you want to 
be really prepared, take your new extinguisher down to your local fire department and tell them 
you'd like to try an actuall test. They'll probably appreciate you doing that, rather than 
setting a pan of gasoline on fire at your house.

Tom Rowe
WI Center for Dairy Research
Madison, WI
608-265-6194   trowe@aae.wisc.edu

	Four wheel drive allows you to get
	stuck in places even more inaccessible.

This Message Was Sent With An UNREGISTERED Version Of PMMail.  
Please Encourage Its Author To Register Their Copy Of PMMail.  
For More Information About PMMail And SouthSide Software's Other 
Products, Contact http://www.southsoft.com.

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Unregistered software
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 96 08:52:00 DST

Now come on Tom you'll be getting us Rover owners  a bad name.

"FRUGALITY
Spend little on parts, software and cans of solvent: drive it 'til it 
breaks"

'This Message Was Sent With An UNREGISTERED Version Of PMMail.
Please Encourage Its Author To Register Their Copy Of PMMail.
For More Information About PMMail And SouthSide Software's Other
Products, Contact http://www.southsoft.com."

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 05:50:51 -0700
From: cascardo@ix.netcom.com (Lucas Andres Cascardo)
Subject: Rivnuts

Hello,

Can someone help me out and explain how to install rivnuts.  I am about 
to install side steps and I have never used these before.  They seem as 
if they will slip out.  Also, what measures can I take to protect the 
frame from rusting as I am going to be drilling holes in it.

Thanks,

Lucas Cascardo  D90

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 09:35:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Magazines for Land Rover Owners

On Thu, 27 Jun 1996, Stephen Fogg wrote:

> I understand that there are a couple of magazines that cater to Land Rover 
> owners. If anyone has the subscription address to either of them handy, please 
> e-mail me (sfogg@msn.com).

     From the FAQ (http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/OVLR/FAQ.5.publications.html)

	Land Rover World 
          Started: Feb 1994 
          Monthly 
          Distribution: Unknown 
          Subscription: (UK pounds for 18 months) (as of May 1995) 
               L 39.60 UK and BFPO 
               L66.30 Europe and Eire air mail 
               L58.80 Overseas surface 
               L90.00 Rest of World 
               Land Rover World, Subscription Department, 
		Hainault Road, Little Heath,
                Romford, Essex RM6 5NP 
               Tel: 181 597 7335 
               Fax: 181 599 5965 

     	Land Rover Owner International 
          Started: July 1987 
          Monthly 
          Distribution: 91,000 (May 1995) 
          Subscription: (UK pounds/year) (as of May 1995) 
               L31 (UK) 
               L40 (Western Europe(air)) 
               L52 (USA/Canada (air)) 
               L78 (Other Countries(air) 
               Anglican House, Chapel Lane, Botesdale, Diss, 
		Norfolk IP22-1DT 
               Tel: 01379 890056 
               Fax: 01379 898244 

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Temporary Absence
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 96 10:00:00 DST

I'm leaving for a couple of weeks to travel to the Down East. See you there.

------------------------------

From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 08:32:57 -0500
Subject: re: fire extinguishers

I agree with Tom that it's a real good idea to practice with an extinguisher
before you're in a Critical Situation. The time of a fire is no time to be
reading the instructions on the bottle :-) I worked security while I was in
college and we had to do fire training at least once a year. If you are the
member of a Rover club, you may be able to get the fire department to come
to a meeting and bring a bunch of their own extinguishers and train the
group. Thats how we did our training. The fire department came over, and
set a bunch of different kinds of fires in the parking lot and we had to
put them out, and they didn't always go out.

Garbage can fires were pretty difficult, if you pointed the extinguisher into te can, you ended up blowing burning paper all over the place. Most things in
an engine compartment are tied down, but your still working in an enclosed
space.

I carry a dry chemical extinguisher in the Rover. I figure as long as I don't
get it in the carb I can pretty much just hose it it out later, when I'm
replacing the wiring harness :-)

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 07:26:34 -0700
From: Jon Nyhus <bmc@syspac.com>
Subject: Re: Arizona People? and how to remove stickers           ***

At 12:09 PM 6/25/96 -0700, you wrote:
>After years of fascination, I got my first Rover.  
>           93 D90 - yellow.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>http://www.tradica.com/
>Robert, congratlations.  Hope your love affair with the Landies is one of
great pleasure.  I live in Phoenix (west valley area.)  I have a '91 RR,
Ex-Works car.  Did the brake test work for the DOT regs for North America on
the 90's" and 110".   Call or stop by.

Regards,  Jon

--------------------------------------------------------------
British Motor Classics, Ltd.,  
8828 N. Black Canyon Hwy #1
Phoenix,  AZ  85051  USA
602.995.2028     FAX 602.995.1909     
E-Mail  bmc@syspac.com  

British auto restoration for all marques,
Car sales & locating service, Spares sales

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 96 10:30:53 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Fire Extinguishers

>>> The problem with foam is that it 
wrecks fabrics!

Umm, so does fire...

Dave

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 16:46:03 +0200
From: wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter de Waal)
Subject: Re: Patchwork Landie

Hi all

Dixon sez:
>> 1. The rear axle, or maybe just the backing plates and brake cylinders, are
>> Series I
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>	Hmmm, not really possible.  Certainly I axles were used on the II
>	for a short while, but stocks would have been long exhausted by the

Yup, but I'm thinking the rear stuff broke somewhere along the line and was
replaced by other stuff. Example - the two front springs are not the same
(different width & number of leaves) and off something other than a Landie
(BTW, I forgot the footnote (1) - Sorry Granville, we call them Landies here :-)

>	time the II/IIA transition occurred.  What about the front axle?
>	Steering arms above or below the swivel?

Can't remember right now but it's the older type.

>	No hole in the rear crossmember?  Interesting...  I have a SW and I
>	do have the pto hole there.  I don't see them doing this.  The 
>	crossmember is original?

Yes. The SWs I've seen have the tank in the rear and no hole in the second
to last (i.e. the one in front of the bumper) crossmember. Bakkies (PUs)
have the hole right through and the tank under the driver's (RHD) seat.

>	My impression was that there would be a serial number on the right
>	front, outside horn denoting that it is a CKD.

Looked there. Looked on the rear. Looked on the inside. Looked on the left.
Zip. Nada. Zilch. :-)

>> So, can we try to bracket the engine and gearbox numbers?
>	Only have numbers for the Series I engine/axles/gearbox...
>	crossmember is original?

I _hope_ this is in fact a Series II engine :-)

W
--
Wouter de Waal        Phone : +27 21 683 5490
Development Engineer  Fax   : +27 21 683 5435
CCII Systems
Kenilworth, South Africa

------------------------------

From: g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald)
Subject: Re: Rivnuts
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 15:53:15 GMT

On Thu, 27 Jun 1996 05:50:51 -0700, you wrote:

>Can someone help me out and explain how to install rivnuts.  I am about 
>to install side steps and I have never used these before.  They seem as 
>if they will slip out.  Also, what measures can I take to protect the 
>frame from rusting as I am going to be drilling holes in it.

Drill the hole the the proper size. This is on the packag of
fasteners. Then you may want to do something to keep the edge of the
hole from rusting. Put the nut in until the shoulder keeps from going
further. Take the tool (you do have the tool for installing them don't
you?) and attach it to the fastener. Turn the handle on the tool
thereby pull in the part of the fastener inside the metal. It should
now be ready to accept a bolt.

I found this variation slightly better. Put the fasteners in the holes
and leave most of them loose (erhaps tightened down a little.) Mount
the side steps then put the bolts in the fasteners. Tightening the
bolts will pull in the fasteners and make them hold. This gives you
some leaway to move the parts a little for a better fit.

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: 27 Jun 96 11:53:09 EDT
From: Ashley Charlwood <101320.2736@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Fire extinguisher positions

Having had an alternator catch fire in a Defender, I put two fire extinguishers
in (maybe a little extreme?) I put one on the top of my cubby box, and one on
the inside of the rear door.

My thought was that I could get at one from the drivers seat on the way out, and
if everything went horribly wrong, ie I couldn't get into the cab for some
reason I coould get the one off the inside of the back door. If you put one on
the back door then makes sure that the release button is away from the action. I
had a helpful friend that manage to discharge alot of dry powder in the back,
even with the safety wedge in!!

Hope you never have to use them!

AJ..

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 09:30:51 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Re: Rivnuts

You wrote: 

>Hello,
>Can someone help me out and explain how to install rivnuts.  I am about 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>Thanks,
>Lucas Cascardo  D90
Rivnut installation should be pretty straight forward requiring only a special 
rivnut tool (similar to a snap riviter).

If you're really concerned about rust, prime and paint after drilling then shoot in 
bit of LPS 3, Waxoyl or similar rust inhibitor.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 12:39:43 -0700
From: John Karlsson <karlsson@edgenet.net>
Subject: Re: Rivnuts

Lucas Andres Cascardo wrote:
> Hello,
> Can someone help me out and explain how to install rivnuts.  I am about
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> Thanks,
> Lucas Cascardo  D90

Rivnuts require that you use a nut and bolt to compress the part of the 
Rivnut that is designed to expand within the hollow section frame and 
form a captive nut.  They worked pretty well for me when I installed a 
front capstan winch years ago.  I have the recipe in one of my old ('60s) 
manuals, if you want me to send you a copy.

John Karlsson
Hope Valley, RI

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 12:43:13 -0400
From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: Rivnuts

>Can someone help me out and explain how to install rivnuts.

First, make sure you have the correct Rivnuts for the type and thickness of
material you're installing them into.  You need to use a Rivnut tool to do
the job.  Once it's set up properly -- mine claims that you should squeeze
the handle about 1", the Rivnuts will be secure.  Too much squeeze is as
bad as too little -- I've even pulled the nuts out of sheet aluminum by
having too much squeeze available to the gun.

It's a piece of cake though, I've used a lot of them in various places on
my Rover.

RoverOn!

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg          Purple Shark Media                 Rowayton, CT

                         jeff@purpleshark.com
                          ==================
               My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
          My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
                       Taste for the good life,
                      I can see it no other way.
                                --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 12:20:38 -0500
Subject: interesting coordinates

I ran accross a Land Rover North America dealer publication with a
graphic of a compass with the following coordinates inscribed around
the edge. Any idea why those coords? Near as I can tell, its in Quebec
and near the north end of Hudson Bay.

76 50' 16" W
38 56' 58" N

Just wondering if there may be hidden treasure (like an S1 Station Wagon)
hiding there... :-)

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
moore *graphic* services, minneapolis, mn
'66 IIa 88 SW

ps - yes, I'm pretty sure LRNA created the image...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 14:03:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: interesting coordinates

On Thu, 27 Jun 1996 harincar@internet.mdms.com wrote:

> I ran accross a Land Rover North America dealer publication with a
> graphic of a compass with the following coordinates inscribed around
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> 76 50' 16" W
> 38 56' 58" N

	38 North?  That puts it in a plane roughly around Washington DC
	and Baltimore (Bo-Mo)  :-)  45 N is about two/three miles south
	of the Quebec/Vermont border.

> Just wondering if there may be hidden treasure (like an S1 Station Wagon)
> hiding there... :-)

	Maybe it is where LRNA is located... :-)

------------------------------

From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 14:17:42 -0400
Subject: Re: interesting coordinates

 76 50' 16" W
> 38 56' 58" N

 38 North?  That puts it in a plane roughly around Washington DC
 and Baltimore (Bo-Mo)  :-)  
> Just wondering if there may be hidden treasure (like an S1 Station Wagon)
> hiding there... :-)
 Maybe it is where LRNA is located... :-) (Dixon)

Sorry to disappoint all you treasure seekers out there (although treasure
like beauty is in the eye of the beholder) those coordinates are the location
of LRNA here in Maryland.
Rgds. Quintin Aspin

------------------------------

From: Alf Liang <liang@hpcuhe.cup.hp.com>
Subject: RR For Sale
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 96 11:30:51 PDT

I am considering to sell my RR to finance the purchase of another LR.  Here is
the detatils.

	Model - Range Rover 3.5 L V-8
	Year  - 1988
	Mileage - 80,100
	Color - Altantic Blue, Leather seats & Sun Roof
	Condition - Very good. One power-window switch is intermittent. I will
		    have it fixed.  New Battery, Fuel Tank.  Maintained by
		    dealer.
        Location - San Francisco Bay Area.
	Asking Price - $12,900

All serious offers will be considered.

Since I don't have current subscription to this list, please e-mail me
directly.

Thank you.

Alf Liang
liang@cup.hp.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 11:46:20 -0700
From: Robert Bell <tradica@netzone.com>
Subject: Sticker Removal Web Page

Thanx for all the suggestions - i have posted them,(without names)
http://www.tradica.com/pages/rover/rover.htm 

time to get back to work!
Robert Bell
tradica@netzone.com
http://www.tradica.com/

   

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 12:25:32 -0700
From: Gordon Rea <grea@net.gov.bc.ca>
Subject: Skid plate question

To celabrate the OVLR bithday party last weekend ,(which I couldn't
attend) I bought myself a new LR.
Sherpa ('65 IIa 88") now has a new freind.
She's a '74 88", Galvanized Frame & roofrack.
Warn winch, Michlin radials, two bateries.
I am deciding on what colour to paint her before I give her a name.
(Series IIa and IIIs will breed won't they?)

The diffs are quite different than other LRs I've seen. They have
a flat part with 4 holes in them , and I was told that they were
for an optional skidplate or prop protector. Where would I find a
skidplate , or the design to have it made from?
What are the disadvantages of a skid plate? (i.e difficult to change
the oil).

Cheers,
Gordon

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com>
Subject: Offroading in MD
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 96 15:26:00 CDT

Someone had invited members of the list to go offroading at the LR test 
track (in Maryland), but I don't remember who it was...  I would appreciate 
it if someone could let me know who that person was, as I would like to go 
off-roading this weekend.

Thanks,
Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 96 15:22:00 CDT

Awhile back I posted that question, but I'm not sure that it made it, so 
here goes again...

When I installed my Bimini top (which I highly recommend for every D90 
owner), I had to drill holes to attach the cleats used for attaching the top 
to the vehicle.  (the holes are drilled in the top rail running along the 
back of the vehicle)  Is there anything I need to do to protect the metal 
where the screws are now in?  (After drilling, I realized that the metal 
isn't aluminum, and could rust...)

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 15:46:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Production Log

On Mon, 24 Jun 1996 harincar@internet.mdms.com wrote:

> Dixon (and anyone else who cares),
> This is the log page showing my vehicle, 441, from Solihull. The 318s

	I am setting up the page of serial numbers (in sequential order, or
	http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/OVLR/FAQ.4.Chassis_Numbers.alpha.html)
	to link to a page with supplied information.  The page for the
	information that Tim supplied can be found at:

	http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/OVLR/FAQ.4.Chassis_Numbers.318a.html)

	Further pages will be added for part of the 241 series (thanks Nathan)
	and part of the 264 series (thanks Ashley).

	If anyone else has some of these sheets, please send or fax so I can
	add them to the FAQ.  (You don't have to say which serial number 
	is your vehicle if you are worried about this)

------------------------------

From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 13:12:29 -0500
Subject: Re: interesting coordinates

Opps, had the numbers flipped, yeah, I bet you're right about it being LRNA HQ.

Duh, I should know that. The 45 degree line is about 100 yards from where I'm
sitting right now...

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 15:02:54 -0500
Subject: Re: interesting coordinates

Um, yeah, I screwed up my original check by transposing the numbers (hence
landing me in Quebec). Sheesh. Maybe I need to spend a little time with the
ol' compass this weekend - its been too long.

I should have known something was amiss - after all the 45N line is about 100
yards from here... :-)

Orienteering? What the hell is that? :-)

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 13:43:53 PST
Subject: Free-Wheeling Hubs
From: rhodesia@juno.com (Chris R. Whitehead)

Just a quick note, does anyone know anything about M.A.P. brand
free-wheeling hubs? Just some general info as to reliability etc would
be nice. Thanks a bunch.

Chris Whitehead
1966 Series IIA - nearly looking like a Land Rover again

------------------------------

From: "David J. Mercer" <merkin@sierra.net>
Subject: RE: Rivnuts
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 14:07:17 -0700
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

	Do you have the tool to in stall the inserts? All you should have to do =
is drill the hole with a bit that is the same diameter as the out side =
of the insert. It should be a little snug, then tap them in the hole =
with a hammer and take the compression tool if that style requires one ( =
all the one's I have ever used did ) and compress the insert. The hole =
should seal but you could put some "PRO-SEAL" on the flange of the =
insert before you put it into the frame. That should be about it. Good =
Luck!

----------

David Mercer
PO BOX 2570
Olympic Valley CA 96146
ph  916-583-4150
fax 916-583-4829
merkin@sierra.net
53 S1 80"
57 S1 107" SW, FOR SALE
63 SII 88"
65 SII 88", FOR SALE
66 SII 88"
86 MB 280GE
------ =_NextPart_000_01BB6432.3A5964A0

------------------------------

From: "David J. Mercer" <merkin@sierra.net>
Subject: RE: interesting coordinates
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 14:38:49 -0700
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

	As far as I could tell those coordinates are ether a field or a house =
on the corner of Woodbine St. and Clearly Lane some where around the =
9500s or so on Clearly Lane. It is located off of I50 and Lottsford =
Vista, in the "Landover Hills" area north east of Washington DC. Now as =
for treasure I will leave that up to some one a little nearer to find =
out. Happy hunting.

----------

David Mercer
PO BOX 2570
Olympic Valley CA 96146
ph  916-583-4150
fax 916-583-4829
merkin@sierra.net
53 S1 80"
57 S1 107" SW, FOR SALE
63 SII 88"
65 SII 88", FOR SALE
66 SII 88"
86 MB 280GE
------ =_NextPart_000_01BB6436.6747F040

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 08:56:10 +1000
From: Richard Clarke <clarker@goldy.agvic.gov.au>
Subject: Re: axle check straps...

The axle straps stop the back axle from bottoming out on the 
shockers.  on early ser1s once you rip out the shockers you then use 
all the movement on the prop shaft and that can do real damage.

The best replacement for a broken strap(s) is a section of 
old/damaged recovery strap.  I've also seen a double layer of folded 
canvas fire-hose which seems to work.

The recovery strap seems to last for ever

Richard Clarke
Manager Internal Audit Services
Department of Agriculture, Energy and Minerals
Victoria 
Australia

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 19:20:05
From: IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILLIAM ADAMS)
Subject: High Lift Jack sources

I found a place that sells High Lift jacks for 47.95. Central Tractor in 
Frederick MD. There are other Central locations throughout this great land of 
ours so check around or look in the yaller pages for a farm store near you. 
Farm and Family centers (catalog and 800 number) also have them, but I don't 
know their price.
They also sell rubberized halogen worklights and all sorts of fun stuff for 
Land Rover people. Those Galvanized water throughs make dandy degreasing 
tubs. Cheap wellingtons, tools and trailer building supplies, quantities of 
lubricating agents. Real self-reliant shopping headquarters.

Bill Adams
3Dmentia computer animation
4016 Spruell Drive
Kensington, MD 20895
301-949-9475

'66 Land Rover S2A 109" Station Wagon Diesel  ...all there

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 19:27:14
From: IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILLIAM ADAMS)
Subject: Offroading in the beautiful MD suburbs

Land Rover North America has an offroading course as part of their "University" at 
their shiny spankin new facility. I don't know if it's in use as yet or if it's 
available to the Rover owner but I'd certainly call LRNA and ask when you can come 
and use it. After all if 30 grand doesn't buy the customer a trip around the track, 
then they need a serious reality check.
Bill Adams
3Dmentia computer animation
4016 Spruell Drive
Kensington, MD 20895
301-949-9475

'66 Land Rover S2A 109" Station Wagon Diesel  ...all there

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 20:23:16 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Mercruiser swaps

Yup...the Mercruiser is a marine engine.  It is the GM "Iron Duke" four 
banger that was used on dozens Pontiac, Chevy and Buick applications in the 
'70's and 1980's.  The advantage is that engines, even marine-sourced ones, 
are relatively plentiful and inexpensive.

The problem is that the engine was re-cammed for marine use.  Boat engines 
are usually set at one throttle position and run for the rest of the day 
like that, so the run-up and idle of the un-modified engine is a bit lumpy. 
Robert has changed that by re-camming the engine.  The nice thing is the 
torque curve...it picks up at a point where the 2.25 is starting to drop 
off.  Cheers

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 20:23:12 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Pissed off...

Nate wrote:

>...the washer pump ran fine but after 2-3 minutes, the only liquid that
>came out of the jets was a miserable little dribble which puddles around
>the jet.

It's probably the tubing.  There's this little "T" *deep* inside the dash 
that's a bugger to get to.  Is there fluid coming out the bottom of the
dash?  Most of the tubing can be replaced rather easily, but making the 
connection at the T is a real bear.  (I used long hemostats.)

Remove the tubing from the reservoir...does it still work?  Often times, the 
little impeller separates from the shaft due to corrosion.  Even though the 
motor spins, it ain't pumping.

And to the neo-Luddites out there that would decry such modern contrivances 
as unnecessary rubbish, try driving the New York Thruway at -5 F with the 
roads still running wet with salt slurry....  Cheers

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 96 19:35:47 -0600
Subject: Re: Unregistered software

On Thu, 27 Jun 96 08:52:00 DST, Easton Trevor wrote:

>Now come on Tom you'll be getting us Rover owners  a bad name.

Yeh, it's looks pretty bad doesn't it? It's shareware that
you can try for 30 days to decide if you like it, before
you register it. I didn't like the last version so I'll try
it before I pay (would that all software were such). But I
won't be embarresed by the tag that the program adds.

This Message Was Sent With An UNREGISTERED Version Of PMMail.  
Please Encourage Its Author To Register Their Copy Of PMMail.  
For More Information About PMMail And SouthSide Software's Other 
Products, Contact http://www.southsoft.com.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 19:34:09 -0500
From: Paul Hanson <"HANSONPA@"@mail.milwaukee.k12.wi.us>
Subject: "Un-RoverWorks"

As one of the many victims of Mr.Klopping, I am now in possession of a 
list of approx.20 who were lied to and cheated.  I'd like to send each a 
short letter and ask for suggestions of what we [collectively] can do to 
see that justice is fulfilled. If anyone out there can offer 
suggestions/advice etc. please e-mail me asap at my addressor on the 
daily net here. I realize this news may be "old stuff" to some of you, 
but getting on the NET and being robbed by Bill is all new to me and to 
perhaps a few oyhers. 
	Many THANKS!!!
	Paul Hanson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 17:06:26 -0700
From: "John Y. Liu" <johnliu@earthlink.net>
Subject: UniMog For Sale

I thought I'd posted this earlier, but perhaps it disappeared to whereever
the Major was hiding.  The L.A. Truck Trader has an ad for a Mercedes UniMog
at $4,800 with this Sacramento number: 916 333 1419.  I know nothing
personally about the truck but am passing along the information in case one
of us would like a UniMog to be stablemates with the 101FC's that we all own.

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 22:06:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Patchwork Landie

Wouter is trying to date his LR:

>Engine: 151911190
>(BTW, the head seems to be marked 27...2, whatsitmean?)
>Gearbox: 151911439

An educated guess is that the fourth digit is a "9" for 1959. This is the
pattern that was used on SII chassis numbers. Also, the lack of a suffix
letter on the gearbox would indicate SII.

What do you mean by SI brakes? The SI brakes were carried over for SII, and
then the 109 brakes were modified several times during the SII-IIA run.

Many but not all SII's had knob rather than lever ventilator controls. Also
most SII's (except the late ones) had the horn button located on the side of
the column, not in the hub.

David Cockey
Rochester, MI
60 SII 88 SW
60 SII 88 PU

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 19:11:59 -0700
From: jory bell <jory@org.org>
Subject: Re: Rivnuts

>Hello,
>Can someone help me out and explain how to install rivnuts.  I am about
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>Thanks,
>Lucas Cascardo  D90

If you are anywhere near San Francisco, I have the rivnut installation tool
you could borrow.

-jory

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 21:00:48 MST
From: ROB MODICA <rmodica@east.pima.edu>
Subject: Arizona Land Rover Owners

Robert,                                                                     
 Saw your posting about Land Rovers in Arizona.  Yes there are LROs in AZ.  In
fact there is the Arizona Land Rover Owners (AZLRO) with about 35 Internet
"members" and more who are not online.  Below is an information form.  Any   
other AZLROs are welcome. We have a contingent heading up to the National Rally
at Crested Butte leaving Tucson for Phoenix and points north on or about Aug  
6th.  Additional caravaners welcome.                                           
******************************************************************************
ARIZONA LAND ROVER OWNERS

    Arizona Land Rover Owners is a very informal collection people who all own
and drive some kind of Land Rover.  AZLRO is not a"club" and does not hold
meetings.  There are no dues and no officers.  AZLRO currently has "Puddles" in
Tucson, Phoenix and Flagstaff.

    The purpose of AZLRO is to provide a way for those of us who own and
appreciate all kinds of Land Rover vehicles --- Series I, II, IIA, or III; 
Range Rover;  Defender 90 or 110;  Discovery;  Forward Control 101;  etc., etc.
-- to exchange ideas, comments, parts suppliers, tips, stories, etc.  If there
is sufficient interest we meet from time to time and use our Land Rovers in
group formation around Arizona.  Road trips are purely recreational activities
and there are no "road fees" or "trip charges".

If you're interested in being on the mailing list and receiving information
about road trips, please fill out the information below and return the bottom
section to:

             Rob Modica
             5210 E. Calle Barril
             Tucson, AZ   85718-6330
             Home phone: (520) 299-3263
             e-mail:  rmodica@east.pima.edu

Please cut here.
=========================================================

Name: ___________________________________________________________

Address: _________________________________________________________

City: __________________________         ZIP: __________________________

Phone : _______________________ e-mail address:_______________________

Type of Land Rover or Land Rovers:  Please fill in and/or circle all that
apply. 

Year _____ Series I   Series II  Series IIA  Series III   Color _____________

80"  86"  88"  101"  107"  109"  2dr  3dr  5dr  h/top  s/top  Safari  SW  PU

Year _____ Range Rover   Classic  3.5  3.9  4.0  4.0SE  Color ____________

Year _____ Defender   90"  110"  hardtop  soft            Color ____________

Year _____ Discovery   automatic  5 speed                  Color ____________

Other type of Land Rover or special characteristics:
_________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________

Would you be interested in some type of off-road trip with other AZLROs?   

 Yes        No                            Comments? (on back side):
********************************************************************

Rob Modica, Tucson AZ
Arizona Land Rover Owners
rmodica@east.pima.edu
'51 SI 80" hardtop
'60 SII 109" 5dr SW Safari
'94 Disco 5spd

------------------------------

From: Inkornoink@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 00:09:30 -0400
Subject: Re: d110 price

let me now if you want to do it around $30,000

if so..we could probably do it quick

------------------------------

From: "David J. Mercer" <merkin@sierra.net>
Subject: RE: Spencer Fisk 86" frame over
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 20:49:35 -0700

	Dear Spencer Fisk

	Well it is nice to hear of some one close by that is into S1 Rovers. I =
am currently doing a frame over on my 1953 80". I have just completed =
fabricating new front horns, number two and three cross members, and a =
rear cross member. I should have the fire wall done in another week, and =
by then hopefully, Craddock will have sent my four remaining valve =
springs, so I can put the engine back together. As for the 107" safari =
station wagon, we are asking $15000. It is in excellent shape, runs very =
well, has new interior, strait body, gray paint, right hand drive, and =
we have done a lot of work to it. As for it being a family truckster it =
my take you a while to get where you want to go, but you will be doing =
it in stile.

----------

David Mercer
PO BOX 2570
Olympic Valley CA 96146
ph  916-583-4150
fax 916-583-4829
merkin@sierra.net
53 S1 80"
57 S1 107" SW, FOR SALE
63 SII 88"
65 SII 88", FOR SALE
66 SII 88"
86 MB 280GE
 

------------------------------

From: "David J. Mercer" <merkin@sierra.net>
Subject: RE: axle check straps...
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 20:52:36 -0700
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

	You mite also want to check the army surplus for parachute strap, it is almost a match and very strong.

----------

David Mercer
PO BOX 2570 
Olympic Valley CA 96146
ph  916-583-4150
fax 916-583-4829
merkin@sierra.net
53 S1 80"
57 S1 107" SW, FOR SALE
63 SII 88"
65 SII 88", FOR SALE
66 SII 88"
86 MB 280GE

------ =_NextPart_000_01BB646D.465E0400

------------------------------

From: "David J. Mercer" <merkin@sierra.net>
Subject: RE: High Lift Jack sources
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 20:55:17 -0700
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

	Check Cost-Co, if you have one near you, the one in Reno NV has High Lift jacks for $40. That is the cheapest I have ever seen them.

----------

David Mercer
PO BOX 2570 
Olympic Valley CA 96146
ph  916-583-4150
fax 916-583-4829
merkin@sierra.net
53 S1 80"
57 S1 107" SW, FOR SALE
63 SII 88"
65 SII 88", FOR SALE
66 SII 88"
86 MB 280GE

------ =_NextPart_000_01BB646D.49482BA0

------------------------------

From: "David J. Mercer" <merkin@sierra.net>
Subject: RE: Unimog For Sale
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 21:09:36 -0700
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

	I called the guy about the Unimogs he has 5 for sale all for $4800, and =
5 for $6500. They are 404s with soft tops and are located in Georgetown, =
which is 40 miles east of Sacramento. He imported them from Germany and =
thats about it. 

>I thought I'd posted this earlier, but perhaps it disappeared to =
wherever
>the Major was hiding.  The L.A. Truck Trader has an ad for a Mercedes =
UNIMOG
>at $4,800 with this Sacramento number: 916 333 1419.  I know nothing
>personally about the truck but am passing along the information in case =
one
>of us would like a UNIMOG to be stalemates with the 101FC's that we all =
own.

----------

David Mercer
PO BOX 2570
Olympic Valley CA 96146
ph  916-583-4150
fax 916-583-4829
merkin@sierra.net
53 S1 80"
57 S1 107" SW, FOR SALE
63 SII 88"
65 SII 88", FOR SALE
66 SII 88"
86 MB 280GE
------ =_NextPart_000_01BB646D.4C10C180

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 23:31:53
From: CarDoctor@gnn.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: British Car day   Sept. 8  Chicago

Hi All,
  I wanted to let the list know that we will be having a British car day at 
Oakton College here in the chicago area on Sept 8.  There will be cars of 
all kinds(british only) on display.  Land Rovers in the Chicago area & 
anyone passing through the area are welcome.  We had eight LR last year & I 
know there are more out there.  My Brother brings Patches just to show all 
are welcome no matter the condision.

  Any one wanting more info just email me.

Regards,
Rob Davis_Chicago

------------------------------

From: DMF55@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 00:27:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Caravan to '96 National Rally from NM, AZ, TX (and others)

Interested to know when this National Rally is planned for.
I already have plans to run from Houston to the Aspen area from July 26 -
Aug. 11.
Please post dates of Rally...Thanks

DMF55@AOL.COM

------------------------------

From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de
Subject: Re: Patchwork Landie
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 08:03:42 +0200 (METDST)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 02:31:46 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Stickers

Nate Dunsmore responds to Dave Bobeck....

>> FRUGALITY
>> Spend little on parts and cans of solvent: drive it 'til it breaks
>Well, with that in mind, I'd suggest splashing some gas or old gas/oil mix
>(like for a chainsaw) and burn the old sticker off, or alternatively use >
some old sand paper and sand it off. ;-)
-

GeeeeeWizzzzz... don't give Dave any ideas!! He just might try it...

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: 28 Jun 96 06:21:33 EDT
From: Don Scott <101364.3474@CompuServe.COM>
Subject:  Billing '96

Hi all,

I will be at billing from Thursday to Sunday this year

Any chance of a meet with other list-readers while there

Possibly a few beers in the beer tent ?

Don Scott
LR/RR/Disco/Jaguar Hybrid

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 52 lines 2155 [forwarded 116 whitespace 483]
 Output: lines 1508 [content 848  forwarded 79 (cut  37) whitespace 459]

Land Rover Owner Subscription Information:

	* All new subscription requests are via the digest. *

In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked
Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved
(by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Useful commands for this are 'index lro-digest' which returns a list of
files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc.

World Wide Web Sites start at
	 http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/pages.html
(shadow) http://www.Senie.com/billc/lr/pages.html

If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have 
understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

  -B

Back	Forward
Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.