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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Re: More electrics
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 96 12:02:50 BST

> reconstructing my distributor I have seen some improvement, I drove it 
> across London to Copthorne (A1) then City then A23, totally fine, 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> intimidated by the expectation of speed. I've given up on mechanics, I 
> think councilling is the only cure. Car psycologists, what a thought!

Speaking of Copthorne - that's near where I had the MOT done! (Palmers in
Crawley Down).
>From all the replies I've had from everyone, it sounds like the bearings in
the distributor are gone - hence very quick wear of rotor,etc.
New distributor time...

> The reason I asked what garage it was, was because I was arguing the 
> merits of dealerships versus independants with my girlfriend, she was 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> to reception, having parked the 101 outside and the receptionist saying 
> 'sorry, we only service Land Rovers here.'

bigsi (one of the Horsham 4x4 lot) on CIX, suggested Southern Counties.
He reckons he often sees 101s there! I haven't seen any, and they definitely
knew my vehicle, when I went to pick it up!  :-)

> As for electonic ignition it comes in various forms, some replace the 
> points, some just use the points to trigger the discharge of the 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> ballast resistor could be used. This is what you have already I suspect, 
> the 24V ignition systems are actually screened, waterproofed 12V systems 
> with a series resistor to drop the voltage (they are in a 101 anyway.)

If you do find anything that will function with the 4cyl. engine, then say
, although I think I'm going to be taking the "new conventional distrib"
route...

Richard  (SIII  109 FFR)

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Electric woes
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 96 12:08:06 BST

> Richard - Only four things are needed to get *any* internal combustion 
> engine running.  Fuel, air, fire and comperssion.  We'll assume that the 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> on the distributor drive shaft.  It's wobbling around and the cause of the 
> erratic behavior.  Get youself a 45D4 Lucas distributor, and I'll wager you 
> worries are over.  Cheers

Unanimous comments from everyone, saying its the distributor drive shaft
(bearings/bushes/whatever)!  Nice when everyone agrees on the fault! :-)

Just one more question: The "civvie" distribs (ie. the 45D4) fits the
mil. version okay? I have shielding on my ht cables, and the lt stuff is 24V...

Getting short of time, so I might get a garage to do this (Lucas parts
shouldn't be a problem over here!!).

Richard   (SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 09:09:01 EDT
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Clutch problems

Sounds like you are low on clutch fluid. If this isn't the case it could
be air in the system or the pushrod on slave cylinder worn so it's too
short.

Most likely the fluid is low or there is air in the system.

If the fuild is low (and it has to be low to the point of almost
none the the reservior to be a problem) then you will need to bleed the
system to fix it properly.  BUT I replaced a clutch slave cylinder
a while ago and it was really easy to bleed.  I just filled the
reservoir and opened the bleed nipple a little.  Soon the fluid was
trickling through.  I just closed the nipple.

The reason behind this was I couldn't find the lid for my easy bleed to
fit the reservoir, or another person to help with 2 man bleeding.  I
thought it would do so I could check that the clutch was OK and I
could fix it the next day.  It was like that until I took the bulkhead
off 2 months later without any problems.

I would not try this on brakes though.  I can drive without a clutch,
without brakes is really stupid & will cost you 9 points and a large
fine.  Also having the steering wheel removed from you chest following
accidents is a little painful :-)

Have fun, Steve

Steve Reddock, Xyratex       | Just as he thought he had
Ext.(01705) 486363 x5209     | clinched the interview he was
IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P)           | visited by the ghost of Usenet
Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com | Postings Past.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 09:44:02 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Re: oil-temp mechanical guages,brake modifications

>I have a combo oil-temp guage on my 67 88, I need to fix the temp side.  RN
>say rebuild for 120 bucks, AB say sorry no ideas. Can anyone help?

Ignorance is not bliss....  birddog

        David,
        You need to take your gauge out and send it to a place in NY called
Nicenger *spelled wrong most likely* I'll get the number for you. They do
all our gauges and do great work on time.
        See ya.

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com>
Subject: RE: 5-speed vs. automatic for Discovery?
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 96 09:39:00 CDT

At one point I was looking at getting a Manual Discovery with cloth seats   
and I was limited to only Red, White, or Green (all other colors were   
off-limits).  There were alot of other restrictions as well, making it   
just too complicated.  All of a sudden, a D90 was available, so I bought   
it instead.  This was back in August, 1995 and I don't know if things   
have changed since then...

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90, #2767  

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 09:53:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Loss of power in D90

Doug,

Different vehicle - same type problem.  I had a Dodge in the '70's that when
I turned on the heater fan, it would fry the alternator.  Turned out the
switch had a direct short.  This may be what's happening with your 90.  May
not be enough to fry the diodes in the voltage regulator, but enough to
corrupt the computer system and cause your problem.  Worth a check.

'til later,

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 09:53:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Clutch problem

Two questions:

Do you have Castrol LMA on the pedal arm and the clutch box/bulkhead (look
under the bonnet).  If so, the clutch master cylinder may be going bad.

Second, and what I experienced, the hydraulic hose between the bulkhead
mounted steel line and the steel line going to the slave cylinder may be
going bad.  Look at the fluid in your master cylinder reservoir.  If
discoloured (black or dark), the hose is probably going bad & need replacing.
 **Thanks to Dave Place for pointing me in the right direction!!**  Mine was
original.  Replaced, and now have full travel on the pedal.

'til later,

Larry Smith
Chester, VA
'72 SWB Petrol - Grover

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 10:09:18 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: July 4th Rover Rally

Dear all,
        A lot of you sent me messages about wanting more info for the July
4th weekend/ DownEast Rally. Well I finally have the mail out information
sheets ready with the directions to the different events, times, numbers
etc.
        Anyone who needs one should email me or call, and I'll get it out
the next day!
        Hope to see you all in July!

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

From: g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald)
Subject: Re: July 4th Rover Rally
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 14:16:10 GMT

On Wed, 5 Jun 1996 10:09:18 -0500, you wrote:

>        A lot of you sent me messages about wanting more info for the July
>4th weekend/ DownEast Rally. Well I finally have the mail out information
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>        Anyone who needs one should email me or call, and I'll get it out
>the next day!

Gerald Ruderman
43 Kenilworth Rd.
Wellesley, MA 02181

Trying to get two more people to join me.

Thanks

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 10:41:11 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Parts

Dear all,
        Well Spring cleaning worked well last time, so here goes again,
help me get rid of this stuff!!

        109 tropical top with 109 regular sides in blue, with windows
        some dents in top.
                best offer
        88 leaf rolling chassis includes, shocks, springs, brakes, axles,
etc. complete except wheels, tire and diffs. Needs only minor repair on gas
tank outrigger, otherwise ready to go. Coil take out
                900
        88 leaf frame, needs rear cross member/ rear spring hanger section
only, Coil take out
                300
        2.25 petrol complete engine/ from pressure plate to water pump.
Client here wants... *not my pricing* he went with a new engine in his
resto.
                1000
        109 regular rolling chassis, diesel set up, complete except rims,
tires and diffs. A few patches, but a sturdy frame, has been plowed. Coil
take out
                best offer *not ready to go for a month or so*
        Lots of used leaf spring parts, axle housings, etc.
        16 inch rims part number 272309, all in great shape, coil take
offs, will trade for Rover 16 inch rims part number 231601, or sell.
        Trade or buy... we need Rover rims part number 231601, old style 16
inch rims, and Rovers with bad frames.

        Sorry to waste the space, but last time I thought tossing these
things out would be a pain, but I got a ton of messages saying to toss
away. So...

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 10:48:11 -0400
From: Hank_Lapa_at_PO-PLAZA1@SIGNALCORP.COM (Hank Lapa)
Subject: POR-15 Info Needed

All,

I'm interested in getting the manufacturer's info package on 
subject coating.  Some traffic on the NJ(?)-based producer 
was on the list about 6 months ago.  Anyone have the name 
and address/phone?  Planning to use on frameover having seen 
it used on an old non-LR vehicle last week.

Regards,
Hank

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jun 96 17:33:36 +0200
From: Igor Cerutti <igor@tinet.ch>
Subject: Re: Transmission Belt Longevity ?

At 16,32 5.06.96 +0200, you wrote:

>Curiously, all the French Land Rover garage owners I've 
>consulted, asked
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>What should I think about this ? Must have to replace now or 
>wait ?

Don't wait a bit !!!!! Go to your next Land Rover garage and make it change
so quickly as possible !

Some friend of my, they broked the transmission belt of a 200 Tdi near by
50000 Km !!!!!!

Personally I fitted the Zeus conversion, ... so no more belt !

regards

igor

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

     ___________________	
    |         |		|                   Igor Cerutti
    |         |         | 		    Via Bressanella 1a	
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |      		    CH-6828 Balerna
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O                 Switzerland
   \____=== ===== ===____/                  igor@tinet.ch
   |o    |  #####  |    o|                
   | ( ) |#########| ( ) |      	    '74 88 SIII Truck Cab 	
   |o    |#########|    o|                  '86 Range Rover Vogue 3.5 Efi 
   |_____|_ ##### _|_____|                  '93 Defender 90 Tdi
  [_______________________]
     XXXX           XXXX
     XXXX	    XXXX

------------------------------

Date: Wed,  5 Jun 96 12:43:28 -0400
From: Sandeep Sardana <sardans@ll.mit.edu>
Subject: help commands

help commands

------------------------------

From: g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald)
Subject: Re: July 4th Rover Rally
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 18:03:19 GMT

I accidentally posted to the list what I meant to send to one person.

My apologies.

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 12:39:05 -0500
Subject: Steering problems

Hi all,

A long time ago, while replacing my frame, I posted that my front wheels
appeared to look like this

| /

from the front. Not nearly so severe, of course, but noticable. This, I 
believe, is leading me to some handling problems that I'd like to work 
out.

First, since the rebuild, I've increased the play in the steering system. My
Box has oil (filled it last fall, and topped it off recently) and it had
some in it before then. I've heard people comment on 'adjusting the play
out of the steering,' anyone care to post some methods of doing this?

Secondly, I seem to be getting dragged back and forth in the lane - 
nothing dangerious, but annoying maybe enough to get me stopped and checked for
drinking :-) I've checked the tie rods, and everything is tight, so no,
I don't think they're ready to break or come loose. 

The last thing I did before I started the frame replacement was rebuild
the hub on the driver wheel - the canted one above - and didn't drive it
at all before starting the frame. Anything I could have done there to
evoke problems?

All could be related, or separate problems, I'm not sure. I've sort
of braced myself that I might have to rebuild the whole swivel ball
assembly on at least the one side. My wife'll love it when I tell her
that I'm not done yet...

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

From: "Dave McKain" <MCKAIN@cemr.wvu.edu>
Date:          Wed, 5 Jun 1996 14:10:29 EDT
Subject:       Clutch x-reference

Does anyone know, by word of mouth or personal experience, whether a 
clutch disk from a 74 chevy vega or a volvo will fit a series 
vehicle. I looked in the parts book and they are both 10 spline SAE 
with a 9-9.25 inch diameter. Just interested.
Also, does anyone know of any bearing (engine/tranny/diff) cross 
reference numbers from Timken or the like. Just trying to build a 
public domain x-reference list.
Thanks,

David McKain
1959 SII SWB
mckain@cemr.wvu.edu
(304) 599-0120
Morgantown, WV
USA                     

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 14:33:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Clutch x-reference

On Wed, 5 Jun 1996, Dave McKain wrote:

> Also, does anyone know of any bearing (engine/tranny/diff) cross 
> reference numbers from Timken or the like. Just trying to build a 
> public domain x-reference list.

	There is a fairly large one at:

	http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/OVLR/FAQ.1.gen_maint.html

	Eventually I'll get around to expanding it further with the rest
	of the stuff.  (Moved Monday, everything is in boxes...)  It could
	nearly double in size.

	Rgds,

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 15:22:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: 12/4/95 <rsloan@titan.liunet.edu>
Subject: Bronc vs. Defender

Bill,

There's no doubt in my mind the D90 is the better vehicle for me, it's 
just that I've had too many near death experiences (like when the shifter 
popped off the steering column merging on the highway trying to go from 
second to third) and too much knuckle scraping pocket digging in the Bronco
to part with him.  Also, it's nice to have something around to tinker with, 
because I can't imagine much going wrong with the new LR. I 
mean, besides changing oil and removing door windows (I do seem to blow 
an inordinate amount of fuses, does anyone else experience this?) I haven't 
had many nuts to turn. I'm certain though that over time the same bond will form
(it's already started) with the LR.  I mean everything I loved about the 
Bronco is found in the LR with alot more thrown in to boot.  Hell, it leaks
in the same places and crawls over the same sand burms with equal parts 
aplomb and brute power.  Anyway, I'm faithful to the end to my LR, maybe my 
little brother will take over the Bronco until he saves his money for a 
nice clean LR.
Peace,
Rich

------------------------------

Date: 05 Jun 96 15:36:17 EDT
From: Richard Brownlee <101360.3273@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Re: The Bull Bar debate arrives again. :^)

>Adding my thoughts to this debate what I reckon is that Bull-bars are
>fine as long as you can demonstarte a need for them (i.e. off-road
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>no good reason at all (if someone knows why people put bars on these
>vans could they share it with me)).

If I may just add my tuppence worth.

I drive for work a Bedford Midi.  This vehicle was originally supplied with a
bull bar.  Many people would see this as unnecessary - 'Obviously the vehicle
never goes 'off road' and so doesn't need a bull bar'. 

 I was happy for it to be there though because if I did hit something hard I
stood more chance of walking away rather than being wheeled away in a
wheelchair.  My feet can be no more than six inches from the outside of the
vehicle, with the only protection beind a couple of flimsy sheets of steel.

The fact that the bullbar was only attached by a couple of poxy little bolts
didn't worry me; as far as I was concerned it stood a chance of spreading the
load of any serious impact.

The company recently had a fit of dogoodness and ordered the removal of all the
bars.  I certainly feel more vunerable now but at least I know that these bars
fit Range Rovers with very little modification!

Regards

Richard
Surrey UK

77 Range Rover

------------------------------

From: kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 13:33:28 -0700
Subject: some questions about servicing

Disco-centric, but figuring some of the questions are meaningful to
non-plushies. Was changing some fluids recently:

Bought some various fluids: ATF, 90 weight. I checked the fluids
(having gone deep wading in the Sierra's wading pool recently). It
was what appeared to be milky in the front and rear axles, so I
replaced the fluid in them and the front swivel balls with
Valvoline Synthetic 90w. The Napa guy said this was great stuff and
would mix appropriately with the natural goo.

So my questions are: is it worth putting in synthetic 90w
especially at the price of $10/US quart especially if I am going to
go wading up to my toes. Is this a good price and is Valvoline any
good?

Q2: I wanted to check and replace my transmission fluid and diff
fluid, but I couldn't find a filler hole or check hole even after
looking at my manual (which only said to refill it). How do I check
and fill?

Q3: Having done this work on my back I am considering jack stands.
I have looked at several briefly, and feel nervous to say the
least. I don't particularly relish the idea of becoming driveway
relish. Are these things really that sturdy and who makes good
ones, or are they all the same? Sears?

Q4: Stupid question of the day: I assume there are rear swivels but
is their a need to renew the fluid in the back wheel area or is
that handled by the axle 90w? Also, if that is true, why is it
necessary to fill both the front diff as well as the swivels?

-- 
Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 15:12:01 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Some questions about servicing

On 6/5/96 Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com> wrote:

:Q3: Having done this work on my back I am considering jack stands.
:I have looked at several briefly, and feel nervous to say the
:least. I don't particularly relish the idea of becoming driveway
:relish. Are these things really that sturdy and who makes good
:ones, or are they all the same? Sears?

 Jackstands are OK if you keep a set of wheels on the ground and the
 vehicle is prevented from rolling.  I get nervous when wrenching hard
 on a car such as our Volvo Wagon which only has about 5-6" clearance
 if a jackstand was to fall in.  If you have to remove a tire, always
 lay it under wheel or axle where it will help support the vehicle in a
 fall.  Regardless, Sears and others do make drive-up ramps for a pair
 of wheels, none of which really impress me much.  One solution for me
 is using an old set of tire rims and placing them under the wheels of
 the vehicle.  The tires fit nicely on the rims and the rims are wide
 and flat on the ground so as not to be shaky or fall over as jackstands.
 This way I can gain 6-8" of clearance under the entire vehicle if need
 be in absolute safety... earthquake or not :)

 Cheers,
                         ______
 Michael Carradine       [__[__\==                    Rumpole of the Bay
 510-988-0900            [________]               Land-Rover Roughmobile
 cs@crl.com  __________.._(o)__.(o)____...o^^^  '65 IIA 2.235m (was 88")
 _______________________________________________________________________
 Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page:   http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html 

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 18:18:53 -0400
Subject: Re: POR-15 Info Needed

The number to call for POR 15  is

1-800-77-POR15

Rgds
Steve 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 16:57:00 -0700
From: Gordon Rea <grea@net.gov.bc.ca>
Subject: 100" defender??

I spotted a Landy that I've never seen before today. It was in a
parking lot so I stopped to look. It looked like a hard top Def 90
but on the bonnet is said something like DOV 100! (might have been DVO
or OVD).It was a Deisel and had doors like a D110, rear bench seats
and was painted a flat military green.
It had european plates as well as customized local plates with the
same numbers. 
I've never heard of a '100' before. Is this a custom job?
It was in Vancouver B.C. Canada (and it had mud on it too!)

gordon
1965 IIa 88"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 20:00:01 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: External sun visors

Back by popular demand - Another batch of external sunvisors has just been 
fabricated.  These are superior to the original design, in fact thay will 
survive the foot falls of the neighborhood urchins who view a Land-Rover
with a roof rack as *playground equipment*.

The visor is heavy guage aluminum sheet, with galvanized support brackets.  
Price is $75 to ROAV club members, $85 to others.  Shipping is extra.  UPS 
within 1-2 zones of Norfolk is just under $20.  All the way to left coast
is about $24.  Cheers

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 21:23:35 -0400
Subject: Re: External sun visors

I Have one of these sunvisors from Sandy and let me tell you,  they are very
well made and look great.IMHO
If you're thinking about an external visor.... don't hesitate to order this
one
you will not be sorry
Rgds
Steve Bradke   96 Discovery
                      72 S lll 88 (For Sale)
                      68 S lla 88

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 18:02:24 PST
Subject: Re: External sun visors
From: rhodesia@juno.com (Chris R. Whitehead)

is this per visor or for a pair??

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 22:40:18
From: IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILLIAM ADAMS)
Subject: Jackstands and rapid descent

	Some mention of jackstands leads to thoughts about proper methods and 
material when working under one's truck or car.

	Jackstands are almost always better than anything else because the are 
designed to hold the vehicle's weight securely and stably. Of couse there are 
some real junky jackstands out there, so buy the best you can afford. I 
personally prefer the racheting type of heavy-duty stands as they are easiest 
to place and remove. If the ground is soft or you are on asphalt, a piece of 
plywood underneath is a good idea to prevent that awful sinking feeling.
	Placing a wheel under the elevated vehicle is not a good idea because: 
a. you shouldn't be under a vehicle that's so shaky it needs a "safety catch" 
and b. if it falls and you're under it, a tire won't help because it probably 
won't land where the tires are. Besides, your working room is severely 
restricted.
	If only one end is being lifted, be sure to wedge or block the unraised 
wheels. Someone (often the mechanic in question) can inadvertently release 
the brake and allow the vehicle to roll. This is especially important for 
Tranny braked vehicles.
	Always test for stability by giving the raised vehicle a nudge. If it's 
properly elevated, it shouldn't move or fall off the stands.
	Wheel ramps are certainly not designed to hold the weight of a truck 
securely. They're marginally acceptable for passenger cars. If you have no 
other option, be sure to block the unraised wheels securely.
	Obviously, you want to be on the most level place you can. If your work 
area is graded up or down, put jackstands under the downhill axle and block 
the unraised wheels both in front and behind.
	Wood blocks cut in a wedge shape are best for blocking wheels. Don't 
rely on rocks, bricks, or cinderblocks as these hard items tend to slide or 
roll rather than grip. Rubber wheel chocks are optimum.
	Never rely on a jack alone to hold up a vehicle. Install jackstands by 
reaching in with arms only. Keep your body out from under until it is 
secured. I prefer to place jackstands on frame members rather than axles. 
This reduces the chances of a fall by taking the springs out of play. On unit 
bodies, use lift points.
Bill Adams
3Dmentia computer animation
4016 Spruell Drive
Kensington, MD 20895
301-949-9475

'66 Land Rover S2A 109" Station Wagon Diesel  ...all there

------------------------------

From: Rick.Crider@trellis.net
Date: 6 Jun 1996 02:17:46 EDT
Subject: List Problems: Author ID

Hello All, 

Lets see if I can explain this in writing........
I've been away from the list for awhile.   Meanwhile, while away, I
switched from AOL to an independent Internet / BBS service.

Previously, while on AOL, when the list postings came in, I could see
the authors name along with the subject heading.    Now,  with a new
server, and a new mail program.....I only see the subject
heading.....with no author ID.  In the "From" box it simply shows the
sender as LRO@Land-Rover.Team.Net.......

So.....unless the writer puts a signature and email address at the end
of his/her posting I can't tell who wrote it, and, thus, can't respond
via email to anyone personally.

Is this a problem with my server, my mail software program, or, has the
list format changed while I was away so that it doesn't show the
author............Hope this makes sense.....I'm certainly confused at
the moment.

Thanks for any ideas on this.

Rick 'going bald over computers'  Crider KD4FXA
Monroe NC
'65 SIIa 88"     ..........for sale.....$2500
'66 SIIa 109"      ........also for sale...
'73 SIII  88"   ......too nice for it's purpose.........
'88 Range Rover  ........just a daily truck........

------------------------------

From: Rick.Crider@trellis.net
Date: 6 Jun 1996 02:19:56 EDT
Subject: ROAV's Sun Visors.......

In reference to the External Sun Visors that the ROAV offers..........I
am one very satisfied customer.    The visor material (aluminum) is
appropriately thick and heavy,  and the galvanized brackets are a
perfect fit.   The mounting and assembly holes are slightly elongated
to allow a little flexibility in fitting to Rovers that may not be
perfectly 'square and plumb' after years of use and mis-use.   I used
all stainless steel hardware to assemble and install mine, and went to
the extra effort of using nylon washers between all surfaces to prevent
chaffing and galvanic corrosion between dissimilar (sp?) materials.

As a disclaimer.....I have absolutely no affiliation with any of the
ROAV members.....never even met any of them.   Just appreciate the
quality product that they offer in this visor.

Cordially:
Rick Crider  KD4FXA
Monroe NC
' 65  SIIa  88"  'Virgil'   ..........for sale........
' 66  SIIa  109" 'Hugo'  ...........for sale........
' 73  SIII   88"   'Jesse'  .........Too nice to even think of
selling.......
' 88  Range Rover  ......poor ol truck.....just my daily pack
mule.......

------------------------------

From: Gene Sparks <europart@techline.com>
Subject: 4 feet of water vs. a Disco (Longish)
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 23:36:43 -0700
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Over the past six months I've heard much said about the wading depth of =
Disco's and recently I have had first hand experience about just what =
they will handle.

Over memorial day I was out on a camping trip with my best friend and =
his sons (3). None of the had been in a LR so they were all anxious to =
see what it could do. I of course gladly obliged by putting my Disco =
through its paces. After a thorough pounding i.e. jumps with all 4 =
wheels off the ground, Climbing 40 degree inclines and brush crashing, =
we proceeded back to camp via a new route. Everyone was amazed and =
completely "jazzed" at its performance but were totally unprepared for =
what followed.

While going around a blind corner on a one lane trail we were run off =
the road by some drunken monster truck wanna-bes. The only option was to =
go into very large trees risking body damage or a large body of water =
covering another trail (I was going about 15-20 mph). I chose the water. =
The water trap was about 50 yards long and we soon came to find that it =
was about 4 feet deep with a very soft sandy base. About half way =
through we fell off into a pit. The water went up over the hood and I =
immediately shut off the engine. Yahoo! We thought quickly as to a plan =
of action as the water seeped in but to no avail. The interior was =
completely flooded before we could hand winch it out with my 4k lb. =
come-along.

Four hours later after having our refreshing dip, the disco was on solid =
ground. Water had completely submerged the interior for nearly four =
hours and there was a thin coat of goo and slime on everything all the =
way up to the glovebox. Try as it might it wouldn't start so we sent for =
a tow truck.

When the truck arrived it towed us out to the nearest flat road and =
hooked us up. As he lifted the Disco several gallons of water and sludge =
drained from the exhaust, so I attempted to start it again. BINGO! It =
started to everyone's amazement (even mine). We were able to drive to =
town under our own power!!!

The Disco is currently a Land Rover Seattle if anyone has a mind to see =
it. I should have it back next week. After a thorough checking by the =
dealer, all that was required in the way of repair was replacement of =
all the fluids (including the gas) and replacement of the stereo and =
Alarm system. If that isn't a tribute to the ability of this vehicle I =
don't know what is. BTW FYI the goo that was the base for this water =
trap was soft enough to suck my foot under to mid calf. The disco didn't =
seem to have any problem chugging through it and I imagine if it weren't =
for the pit we fell into (or if I had a snorkel which is next on my =
list) that the Disco would have made it the last 25 yards.

All in all it was an interesting experience to say the least. Wish I had =
a camera with me so as to have a visual remembrance of the ordeal but no =
luck. Guess I'll have to settle for the new dent as a reminder. It =
looked just like the Camel trophy pictures you see, everybody in the goo =
up to their necks working feverishly. You should have been there. See =
you all in Portland on labor day.

Gene
96 Disco (Fully Initiated)
------ =_NextPart_000_01BB5337.E43E1080

------------------------------

From: HaggisIan@aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 02:46:29 -0400
Subject: SPLIT CHARGERS - ADVICE PLEASE

Can anyone give me advice on how to fit and wire up a split battery charger.
I don't want to run a fridge, just to charge an auxilliary battery in the
rear of a 101 whilst driving along

Ian Haggis. Leicester U.K.

------------------------------

Subject: Re: List Problems: Author ID 
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 00:32:31 -0700
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

In message <bulk.22805.19960605233258@Land-Rover.Team.Net>you wrote:
> Previously, while on AOL, when the list postings came in, I could see
> the authors name along with the subject heading.    Now,  with a new
> server, and a new mail program.....I only see the subject
> heading.....with no author ID.  In the "From" box it simply shows the
> sender as LRO@Land-Rover.Team.Net.......

	Sounds like your new mail program is grabbing the information
from the "Return-Path:" line in the header information to the email
(This is set to "LRO-Owner@playground.sun.com") instead of the "From: " line.

	With unix style mail, the incoming mail is stored in one big file.
It assumes that any line that starts with a "From " and is after a blank
line is the start of the next message.  "LRO@Land-Rover.Team.Net" could
be in that line instead of the origional sender.  (I'm not sute because
my mail handler moves the mail from the spool file, breaks it into individual
messages and strips off the "From " line, so I can't check right now.

	If you are on a unix system you might want to check the man pages for
you mail handler.  If you are using something else, you might want to check
the documentation to see if there are any configuration files that you could
modify.

Ben, using MH that was writting by the RAND Corp ages ago...
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

Subject: Re: List Problems: Author ID 
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 00:36:16 -0700
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

Following up to myself...

> (I'm not sure because my mail handler moves the mail from the spool file, 

	I just check with the message I just sent to the list.  Indeed the
initial from line is set to (minus the quotes):
  "From LRO-Owner@playground.sun.com Thu Jun  6 00:32 PDT 1996"

	So your mail program might be grabbing this.

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 08:45:59 +0000
Subject: Vis-a-Vis: SPLIT CHARGERS - ADVICE PLEASE

Quoting HaggisIan@aol.com, from  6 Jun 96

> Can anyone give me advice on how to fit and wire up a split battery
> charger. I don't want to run a fridge, just to charge an auxilliary
> battery in the rear of a 101 whilst driving along
I would also be interested in some for of split charger system (I don't 
have a split charger, so *all* the gory details please :-)

[YES! I managed to avoid the Me Too syndrome !!]

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

Quote of 1996: "A.L.S. is a good example of scottishissityness"

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Electric woes
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 96 8:53:18 BST

> >Just one more question: The "civvie" distribs (ie. the 45D4) fits the
> >mil. version okay? I have shielding on my ht cables, and the lt stuff is 24V...
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> mine for eight years.
> Cheers

I phoned up Paddocks/Craddocks (one of them two) - advertise a lots in the
mags. They're sending something that they think will do (sounds like it
might be the standard distributor).
I had to get some bits to help me commission my new left fuel tank, so
was putting an order in anyway.

Richard

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 18:45:41 -0900
From: scholes@modemss.brisnet.org.au (David  R Scholes)
Subject: TECTOL

Has anyone out there used a product called TECTOL (I hope the spelling's
right) to rustproof the chassis and underbody area?

Can you tell me whether it's good, bad or indifferent?

------------------------------

From: RALPH@SMUGGITS.MHS.CompuServe.COM
Date: 06 Jun 96 05:48:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Bronc vs. Defender

>> I can't imagine much going wrong with the new LR <<

Ha, ha ha hah hah ha. Just you wait.

Ralph.

101 FC.

------------------------------

From: RALPH@SMUGGITS.MHS.CompuServe.COM
Date: 06 Jun 96 05:47:56 EDT
Subject: Re: 100" defender??

Gordon,

There were a number of 100" prototypes made up in the late '70's for a 
proposed swiss contract. They were coil sprung with the standard engine 
options. They are incredibly rare. More likely it is a hybrid of range 
rover running gear, with modified bodywork on top, I've seen those 
before, but you never know.

Ralph

101 FC.

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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