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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 logical@icon.co.za (Paul7[not specified]
2 logical@icon.co.za (Paul7[not specified]
3 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u23More electrics, cont.
4 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u17Re: More electrics
5 JDSalerno@aol.com 12Clutch problem
6 bcotton@lia.co.za (Brian16Diesel's on strike
7 Alex Bochannek [abochann25[not specified]
8 Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A5Handbrake return spring- Where does the end mount?
9 ASFCO@aol.com 12Rob J Cohen address needed
10 RALPH@SMUGGITS.MHS.Compu30Re: More electrics
11 harincar@internet.mdms.c22FS: Repairable bulkhead
12 ecrover@midcoast.com (Mi21Dormobile Parts
13 ASFCO@aol.com 14Roof Ladder for sale
14 James Carley [carley@man24Re: ATF in Manual Transmissions
15 "Boehme, Doug" [dboehme@23Loss of power in D90
16 Bob Perry [Bob@springco.8[not specified]
17 Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A5Re: Help - 2.5 ltr cracked head
18 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u20Re: Antennas on cars for transmitters/CBs
19 uf974@freenet.victoria.b37Incompetent mechanics (rant)
20 "Boehme, Doug" [dboehme@11D90 trailer wiring
21 jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (19Re: Help - 2.5 ltr cracked head
22 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u56Re: More electrics
23 uf974@freenet.victoria.b39Incompetent mechanics (rant)
24 Lodelane@aol.com 21Re: More electrics
25 Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-m5Re: ATF in Manual Transmissions
26 Jim Pappas [roverhed@m3.62RE: In the pink
27 Jim Pappas [roverhed@m3.45RE: In the pink
28 Peter Kutschera [peter@z36Spinning Starter doesn't move diesel engine!
29 12/4/95 [rsloan@titan.li34wiring
30 houniet@mail.xs4all.nl 36Had some fun today....
31 "LRO Shop (North America15Re: CB in a Disco??
32 Gregspitz@aol.com 9Re: D90 trailer wiring
33 harincar@internet.mdms.c36Re: Incompetent mechanics (rant)
34 SSINKULE@aol.com 9STAGE 1 V-8 4 sale
35 Rick Grant [rgrant@synap19Re: Incompetent mechanics (rant)
36 GElam30092@aol.com 56Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
37 Inkornoink@aol.com 22Re: STAGE 1 V-8 4 sale
38 Greg Moore [gmoore@comox13Re: Clutch problem
39 Greg Moore [gmoore@comox19Re: Handbrake return spring- Where does the end mount?
40 Gregspitz@aol.com 8Re: Air suspension on a Defender?
41 RALPH@SMUGGITS.MHS.Compu49Re: Re: More electrics
42 David William Scott [bir16oil-temp mechanical guages,brake modifications
43 Daryl Webb [dwebb@waite.31Re: Incompetent mechanics (rant)
44 CarPhonMan@aol.com 7Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
45 "Hugh Grierson" [Hugh.Gr5Re: oil-temp mechanical guages,brake modifications
46 FOSTERLOHR@aol.com 13Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
47 Hal Leininger [halgram@s7SUBBING
48 jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (20Re: Handbrake return spring- Where does the end mount?
49 twakeman@scruznet.com (T42Re: Dormobile Parts
50 JDolan2109@aol.com 13Oil Filter Seal Removal
51 Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-m5Re: ATF in manual transmission
52 Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-m5Re: Where is the frame number on SIII 109? Thanks!!
53 "Mr Ian Stuart" [Ian.Stu21Re: Handbrake return spring- Where does the end mount?
54 "Mr Ian Stuart" [Ian.Stu20Re: 5-speed vs. automatic for Discovery?
55 Daryl Webb [dwebb@waite.22Re: ATF in manual transmission
56 Spenny@aol.com 18Rear Crossmember for sale


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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 19:23:49 +0200
From: logical@icon.co.za (Paul Damhuis)

subscribe lro-digest-ltd

Eat drink and be merry for tomorrow the sky may fall on our heads.

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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 19:24:25 +0200
From: logical@icon.co.za (Paul Damhuis)

subscribe za-lro

Eat drink and be merry for tomorrow the sky may fall on our heads.

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: More electrics, cont.
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 96 15:08:10 BST

Got the Landie back. Runs how it did originally.
The garage report drop out/stalling when idling. Probably distributor.

Running is uneven as before (I posted something on this before), but "okay".
I've only driven about half a mile, but did have to stop a few times for
lights - also managed to get into 4th with no trouble.

They've changed the rotor, condenser, and points.

The question is: Is this uneven running the carb. or the distrib??
Any simple ways to tell?
I suspected the carb. before I had my trouble over the past month.

I want to take the vehicle up to Cambridge next week, and to take it to
Scotland at the end of the month. It has to be in good condition.

Richard  (the ex-gurkha SIII FFR 109)

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re:  More electrics
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 96 10:14:01 BST

> > Now drives okay (I had to be towed there), but tends to backfire and
> > stop on idling - or that's what it sounded like they were describing.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
> In either case, it takes only a couple hours to check it out. The carb is
> really simple...

I have the Weber, but no diagrams for it. I thought I had carb. trouble before,
so it could be (esp. the way I had been driving it!).   Perhaps do both the
carb. and the distrib. this week?

Richard

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From: JDSalerno@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 00:57:18 -0400
Subject: Clutch problem

I have a series III 88 and I've recently noticed a change in the clutch.  The
pedal is much "softer" and it takes much less pressure to depress it to the
floor.  Also, as I let out the clutch, it starts to engage within .5-1 inch
from the fully depressed position.  It does shift into all gears,  although
with a little more difficulty.  Is my clutch going out?  I'd appreciate any
suggestions. Thanks

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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 07:32:02 +0200
From: bcotton@lia.co.za (Brian Cotton)
Subject: Diesel's on strike

Howdy folks !

Shortie is alive and well again.
Primed the fuel system, lots of air ! ?
If it does it again I'll replace all the fuel lines 'cos the air must have
got in somewhere ?
Fuel flow through the filters (2 in parallel) seems ok.
Thanks for the inputs from all.

Brian 'wojo wojo wojo vroom vroom' Cotton
South Africa

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Subject: 5-speed vs. automatic for Discovery?
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 96 15:37:01 PDT
From: Alex Bochannek <abochann@cisco.com>

According to our local Land Rover dealer only 5% of all Discoveries
are shipped with a manual transmission. Is the automatic really
superior or does the typical buyer in the US just not care for the
manual? The use we have in mind for the car would be long road trips
with moderate off-roading.

Also, is anyone aware of a successor model to the Discovery and if
yes, in what time frame? What about BMW engines?

Since we do not subscribe to the list, please send answers directly to
caroline@nowhere.net.

Thanks!

--
Alex Bochannek                 Phone & Fax : +1 408 526 51 91
Network Analyst                Pager       : +1 408 485 90 92
Engineering Computer Services  Alpha Pager : +1 800 225 0256 PIN 104536
Cisco Systems, Inc.            Email       : abochannek@cisco.com
170 West Tasman Drive, Bldg. E Pager Email : abochannek@beeper.cisco.com
San Jose, CA 95134-1706, USA

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From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  4 Jun 96 14:14:12 EDT
Subject: Handbrake return spring- Where does the end mount?

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From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 22:50:41 -0400
Subject: Rob J Cohen address needed

anybody know the whereabouts of Rob J Cohen or Cohn?sp
he used to have an AOL account and post to this list....
seems he has disappeared
any help appreciated
Thanks
Steve Bradke

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From: RALPH@SMUGGITS.MHS.CompuServe.COM
Date: 03 Jun 96 15:59:29 EDT
Subject: Re: More electrics

Richard,

You may remember that you thought the problem I was having was similar to 
what your started out like, I opened up the (medusa-like) 24V 
waterproofed, screened distributor of doom (you should of seen the weird 
looks I got in the motor factors looking for a new cap) and the carbon 
brush dropped out in two bits. I used a RR part as a replacement. I oiled 
the centrifugal advance mechanism, which is one of a long list of 
potential problems, as I'm sure you know. I'll test it tomorrow and tell 
you how it goes.

Have you considered going over to electronic ignition, there are various 
options, all promise better economy, performance, starting etc. I'm 
looking for  a replacement electronic distributor and coil, so as to 
replace the whole lot, but I have 24V as do you I believe (FFR) so I 
haven't found anything yet.

Just out of interest, where was the LR dealer?

Regards

Ralph

101 FC.

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From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 08:43:24 -0500
Subject: FS: Repairable bulkhead

Hi all,

if anyone is interested, I'm selling my old bulkhead from my '66 IIa.
It repairable, needing footwells and doorposts, but the dash and everything
else is in decent shape. I computed the costs of replacement parts from
RN, figured in some time, etc, and subtracted from $800. I can't weld, or
I'd repair it myself, then sell it.

$200 or best offer, its in minneapolis, and I won't attempt to ship it.
(Actually, it likely that if someone showed up for it, you'd get a deal...)

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 14:27:11 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Dormobile Parts

Dear all *especially LR Dormobile Owners*
        Roof vents are back on! Enough orders have trickled in so vents are
being made as we speak. They should be done in about two weeks.
        Cost is 125. US dollars each, plus UPS to your door. Exact
reproductions from an original mold.
        Only a couple left that were not ordered, so let me know.

        Thanks.

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

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From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 19:53:49 -0400
Subject: Roof Ladder for sale

I have a galvanized roof access ladder for sale
It measures 53.5 in long by 8 in.wide
price $ 70.00  I will pay the shipping costs
Located in Albany , NY
Thanks
Steve Bradke   96 Discovery 
                      72 S lll 88
                      68 S lla 88

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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 96 08:37:55 EST
From: James Carley <carley@manly.civeng.unsw.EDU.AU>
Subject: Re: ATF in Manual Transmissions

Jimmy wrote:

>>This Saturday I discovered that I have ATF instead of
>>20W50 engine oil in the tranny.   ARRGH!!
>Do you use 20W50 in the tranny? Over here (North America) we use 90wt gear
>oil.....

It depends on the gearbox.  RR's with LT95 4 speeds were/are around Oz
for more than 10 years.  Early 110's also use the same box.  The specified
oil for these is engine oil (20W40 etc), which is supposed to be changed
every 40000 km. People who rebuild them tell me that if these two points
are followed they can last "forever", however they often don't last 'cause
owners and mechanics wrongly think 'gearbox = gear oil'.

So, read what's specified, don't assume.

James Carley
Sydney, Australia
'85 110

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From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com>
Subject: Loss of power in D90
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 96 14:27:00 CDT

A while back I mentioned that I lost engine power when I turned on the   
fan in my D90.  Well, I guess, the fan thing was a fluke, because this   
morning, while driving to work, I had another "loss of engine power".   
 This lasted about 5 minutes before returning to normal.  It was to the   
point that, when in neutral, and the gas pedal to the floor, the engine   
would turn close to 3000 rpms at maximum and my top speed was reduced to   
roughly 45mph in fourth gear.  I'm not able to bring my D90 into the   
dealer until next Tuesday (they don't have available time slots till   
then...)   Any suggestions? (The outside temp was 60-65deg if that makes   
a diff.)

On Feb 14th (yes, valentine's day of all days, on the way to dinner with   
my wife),  my D90 stopped running and the fuel injector ECU was replaced   
and I'm wondering if this is again the problem.

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90, #2767 (currently, not running "correctly")  

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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 22:34:55 +0100
From: Bob Perry <Bob@springco.demon.co.uk>

unsuscribe
Bob
"One of the finest accomplishments is
            making a long story short."

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From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  3 Jun 96 18:11:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Help - 2.5 ltr cracked head

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Antennas on cars for transmitters/CBs
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 96 9:11:08 BST

> Speaking as one who's driven more than one mobile antenna farm, I've never 
> liked, trusted or felt warm and fuzzy about any kind of a temporary mount. 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
> roof). They don't move, they don't fall off, and you can actually set them for 
> a decent SWR and expect it to stay there.

I've gone and bought a standard "domestic" car aerial, which I was planning to
fit to one of the holes on my right wing. These holes were originally from
the tuned heads the Army used.
I'm also missing the aerial mounts which the FFRs had half-way down the truck.
Is is possible to buy these?
Might be handy if I was to get a CB...

Richard   (SIII 109 FFR)

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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 07:29:46 -0700
From: uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (Clinton D. Coates)
Subject: Incompetent mechanics (rant)

AAARRRRGHHHHH!

If you are ever broken down in Smithers in northern
British Columbia, never, Never, NEVER get your
vehicle fixed at OK tire.  Go to Kal Tire, Adema's,
McDonalds, Kentucky Fried Chicken, whatever, but NOT
OK Tire. (rant over)

I was going through my brakes as a matter of course while
changing out the hub seals and noticed that one of the 
snail cam adjustors could rotate freely through 360+ degrees
without moving the shoe at all.  It seems that someone (at OK
Tire) decided to use a hack saw to cut a deep groove in the post
on the brake shoe that the adjustor bears against???

Nobody but me ever touches Emerson again.  I don't mind fixing
stuff that goes wrong as a matter of course, but it really peeves
me to have to deal with stupid mistakes that I *payed* somone
to inflict.

Sorry for the bandwidth

CDC

ps are there any cheap restorable 80 or 86 landies
for sale in western Canada, preferably BC?

--
 __x___x_  /    Clinton D. Coates  uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca    
|__|__|__\/__   
|     |   |_ |  *Emerson* 61 lwb pickup.....mostly runs
  (_)"""""(_)"  *If it doesn't leak, its not a Land Rover*

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From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com>
Subject: D90 trailer wiring
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 96 08:28:00 CDT

Does anyone know what's required for trailer wiring in the D90?  Is it a   
simple wiring harness from RN and does it attach easily?

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767  

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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 15:37:47 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Re: Help - 2.5 ltr cracked head

You wrote:
>After seeing re-occuring white/grayish gook inside, I had a friend take the head
>off the engine and replace the head gasket and various other bits and pieces.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>What are the options when this happens, and the typical costs?
>Dave
First check the head to see if it is cracked (I'm not sure if the symptoms point 
to this or not).  Get it magnafluxed.

If it's cracked replace it.

Good luck,

Jeremy

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: More electrics
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 96 9:41:10 BST

> You may remember that you thought the problem I was having was similar to 
> what your started out like, I opened up the (medusa-like) 24V 

I know very little about engines (but learning fast) - people have been
helping me a lot - I thought I'd put my tuppence in! After saying that,
its all beginning to look very similar...

> waterproofed, screened distributor of doom (you should of seen the weird 
> looks I got in the motor factors looking for a new cap) and the carbon 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> potential problems, as I'm sure you know. I'll test it tomorrow and tell 
> you how it goes.

Could be something like that, but the garage seem to think a complete
replacement is in order. I'm inclined to agree.

Reading my books lastnight, it could be carburettor trouble (I see someone
suggests that - sorry, I haven't got your name, my mailer doesn't let
me read more than one message whilst I write another...).  I did suspect
a carburettor problem right at the beginning (need cleaning out,etc).

I also have a strange suspicion that when I pick it up, it will drive the
best I've ever known it!  (but I could be wrong). 
 
> Have you considered going over to electronic ignition, there are various 
> options, all promise better economy, performance, starting etc. I'm 
> looking for  a replacement electronic distributor and coil, so as to 
> replace the whole lot, but I have 24V as do you I believe (FFR) so I 
> haven't found anything yet.

Someone at work suggested this. The same guy said that Lucas do one (don't
know the voltage). I know very little about them, but by his description,
I thought I'd leave it.  But maybe not...
If I do replace the distributor this coming week, I'll probably do the works
(ie. sparks and HT cables). If I did this, I'll probably go for standard
sparks & distrib. cap (chuck all that shielding!). In which case, electronic
ignition might have something going for it...
Has anyone tried this? How easy is it?

And for the possible carb. problem:   I have a Weber. If I decide to do
something about it, I have two solutions:
1.) get an overhaul kit  (I assume these come with full instructions,
I don't have *any* Weber diagrams ATM)
2.) Replace with a Zenith. Is this a simple undo-a-few-screws change, or
do I have to start rebuilding linkages?

> Just out of interest, where was the LR dealer?
Southern Counties Land Rover,  Crawley (West Sussex)

Richard  (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 20:16:46 -0700
From: uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (Clinton D. Coates)
Subject: Incompetent mechanics (rant)

AAARRRRGHHHHH!

If you are ever broken down in Smithers in northern
British Columbia, never, Never, NEVER get your
vehicle fixed at OK tire.  Go to Kal Tire, Adema's,
McDonalds, Kentucky Fried Chicken, whatever, but NOT
OK Tire. (rant over)

I was going through my brakes as a matter of course while
changing out the hub seals and noticed that one of the 
snail cam adjustors could rotate freely through 360+ degrees
without moving the shoe at all.  It seems that someone (at OK
Tire) decided to use a hack saw to cut a deep groove in the post
on the brake shoe that the adjustor bears against???

Nobody but me ever touches Emerson again.  I don't mind fixing
stuff that goes wrong as a matter of course, but it really peeves
me to have to deal with stupid mistakes that I *payed* somone
to inflict.

Sorry for the bandwidth

CDC

ps are there any cheap restorable 80 or 86 landies
for sale in western Canada, preferably BC?

also, how to get on the left coast mailing list?

--
 __x___x_  /    Clinton D. Coates  uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca    
|__|__|__\/__   
|     |   |_ |  *Emerson* 61 lwb pickup.....mostly runs
  (_)"""""(_)"  *If it doesn't leak, its not a Land Rover*

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From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 19:53:03 -0400
Subject: Re: More electrics

Tim,

The other problem with Zeniths is a pass thru passage that has some
application on other vehicles, but not with Rovers.  As the halves warp, it
allows fuel into this passage causing significant flooding.  What British
Pacific advised me to do (and I did) is disassemble the carb, and stick a
piece of "O" ring into the passage.  If interested, BritPac (or I) can supply
you with the diagram.  (Please don't ask - I can't scan and add to the
netlore.)

'til later,

Larry Smith
Chester, VA
'72 SWB Petrol - Grover

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From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de
Subject: Re: ATF in Manual Transmissions
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 07:53:07 +0200 (METDST)

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From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com>
Subject: RE: In the pink
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 22:09:07 -0400
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Mike:

No big deal! Feel free to post me any time about anything - including =
Pink Panthers!! I couldn't pass up the opportunity to rescue one of =
these insane vehicles! #10FG56 is in very good original/unrestored =
condition.She will see plenty of events (display only - it will remain =
unregistered) and will spend time as a showroom attraction at Land Rover =
Metro West. I feel obligated to have as many people see it as possible - =
so it won't stay hidden in my garage (no room anyway).

I was just surprised that Myles had found out the same day I got back =
from the UK. I was obviously jet lagged - which is why I didn't realize =
that I answered your post to the whole digest! Also too tired to realize =
that a lot of people at the ARC National knew of the deal via Dunsfold =
personnel - and well, we all know what a small world it is.

I'll keep you posted as to when she arrives. It most certainly will NOT =
make Owl's Head this year - but perhaps I can shoot for British Invasion =
at Stowe in September if all goes well.

Take care.

Jim

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From: 	Mike Smith[SMTP:ecrover@midcoast.com]
Sent: 	Sunday, June 02, 1996 7:23 PM
Subject: 	RE: In the pink

>Mike:
>It never ceases to amaze me how the internet works. I have made an =3D
	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 10 lines)]
>cheers
>Jim

        Guess you should have told Myles to keep his big mouth shut =
then.
He told me you'd have it here for the DownEast.
        Won't mention it again. Sorry, I was told it was for public =
consumption.
        Good luck with it.

        See ya

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------ =_NextPart_000_01BB5193.8D331C40

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From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com>
Subject: RE: In the pink
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 22:02:36 -0400
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Oops! I realized that I returned a post to Mike Smith and launched it to =
the digest! Anyway, now that everybody knows - I hope to have this =
original Pink Panther here within two months' time.

We will probably *unveil* it at Land Rover Metro West in the form of a =
party and I will be happy to keep the LRO's on the digest briefed as to =
status of same. Any and all enthusiasts will be invited!

Thanks for all of the support.

Jim

----------
From: 	Franklin H. Yap [SMTP:fhyap@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: 	Sunday, June 02, 1996 12:06 AM
Subject: 	RE: In the pink

You wrote:
>I would ask you in good faith to not publicize this vehicle on the

list =3D
>or even word of mouth until we have the vehicle here for a number of =
=3D
>reasons. Even if this appears on the list from other sources - please
=3D
>let me announce same to the net in due course.
>reasons. Even if this appears on the list from other sources - please
I'm not sure if you meant to post to everyone on the list.  In any
event, congratualations. (Is getting a LR similar to adding a new
member to the family?)

On the West Coast (Mendo_Recce) List, we just gripe about LR
salespersons who know nothing about the vehicles they sell.  It's great
to know of a LR salesperson who truly appreciates the product.

------ =_NextPart_000_01BB5193.8A05D120

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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 11:47:02 +0200
From: Peter Kutschera <peter@zditf2.arcs.ac.at>
Subject: Spinning Starter doesn't move diesel engine!

Hello!

Yesterday morning (I was in hurry) the starter of my SIIA DIESEL sounds like
Clunk Sssssssssssss, but the engine wasn't turning! 

Any ideas before I have to remove the air intake, the exhaust + mainfold
and some smaller pices to get the starter out?

Can I make some tests without removeing the starter? Sounds like
the clutch in the starter is dead or the gearwheel broken?! 

Clunc  : the relay moves the gearwheel ?
Ssssss : the turning Starter ?

Thanks
 Peter

BTW: where should the battery be connected to the starter? 
     On this relay on the starter (Whats the englisch name?) there are two
     connections: one thin wire from the starter-key (12V when starting) 
     and one 4mm thick wire from the alternator (always 12V).
     (Well, there is also a connection to the housing of the starter).
     Shouldn't there be a THICK (1cm) wire conected somewhere? There is
     such a thick wire at the battery under my seat, but where may the 
     other end of this wire be?

-- 
Signature: 
<a href=http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter>http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter</a>
Landrover: 
<a http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter/LR>http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter/LR</a>

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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 15:26:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: 12/4/95 <rsloan@titan.liunet.edu>
Subject: wiring

Just joined the list, use to have a '69 Ford Bronco which fell apart 
around me, quite literally, several body panels were screwed back on and 
the whole body kind of shifted about due to rotted mounts.  After finally 
realizing that driving and restoring weren't working for me and taking it 
off of the road, after thoroughly enjoying it off road, 
and calculating the resto, if done correctly (by that I mean, fiberglass 
body as I live by salt water, new frame for the same reason, new top, new 
everything almost) I came to the conclusion 
that for that kind of money I should buy new and not deal with the 
headaches of the resto.  Looked around me for something comparable 
stylistically, and lo and behold, found and test drove a Land Rover(D90 
for some)  Bought him almost immediately, and never looked back.
Driving him for five months and I've got around 18,500 miles on, and I 
must say, every mile was a pleasure.  I've gotten a lot of offers for my 
D90, I guess they are fairly rare.  Of course, I wouldn't think of 
selling him.  I've still got the Bronco too, for Sunday afternoons I 
guess.  What spurred me to write was the fellow who was going to hook up 
some wiring from his fuse box.  Not quite sure exactly what he meant, but 
I had something similar in the Bronco I think and it went on fire.  A 
wire was inserted between the fuse and the fuse seat and one day, poof!  
Most definitely wire something through a seperate fuse box in the correct 
manner.  Don't play with electricity.  Also, I read about someone experiencing
a severe shimmy while driving.  Check and make sure the steering box is
correctly and adequately attached.  Had a "death wobble" myself and when 
I looked, saw that the steering box was holding 
onto the frame for dear life by about a 1/4" weld.  Another few potholes, 
which in N.Y are just like speedbumps, and I quite possibly would have been 
history.  Allright, bye!
Rich

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From: houniet@mail.xs4all.nl
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 15:01:21 +0000
Subject: Had some fun today....

A strange thing happened today,
I haven't been able to find the exact source of the moning sound in 
our landrover, but thanks to you guys I believe it's not critical in 
the short term.
I fixed a major leak in the water cooling system, and proud of my 
handywork, I decided to show an interested friend of mine how much 
fun it is to drive 4x4. To do so I drove to the only bit of terrain 
we have in the area, a 2x2 Km stretch of dry sand. I have to be 
carefull though because my SIIa ambulance weighs 2.5 metric tons, and 
has some sort of Michelin mud tires, not ideal for this terrain.
Anyhow, I was just about to leave when a young dame came running up 
and asked for assistance! Her boyfriend's jeep (wrangler 4liter) jeep 
was stuck fast inbetween two hills of sand and had dug itself in due 
to wheelspin and lack of suspention travel.
They saw my Landy, and assumed I was an offroad guru, which I am not, 
and expected me to come with a soloution for their problem. I managed 
to get their jeep out after about an hour of digging and rocking it 
out of the holes the tires had dug spinning.
Now, this is not an advert for Landrover, but a Jeep which 'looks' 
like an offroad vehicle, but isn't, makes me feel good about our old 
2.25 liter landy with it's big wheels, heavy chasis, funny sounds and 
free of any quick 'macho' image. 
I also have started to understand the differance between L-R people 
and jeep people, in that jeeps give a quick thrill, and L-R's are for 
the longer lasting 'I want to know all about it and do the experiance 
myself' people.... I think.....
Anyway the chap happy to be out of the sand, and I was happy to have 
a Landrover, so I guess I'll call it a good day!
greetings from the (ex) bottom of the seabed, (holland)
Floris Houniet.

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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 16:10:00 -0400
From: "LRO Shop (North America)" <lroshop@idirect.com>

From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 08:09:21 -0500
Subject: Re:  CB in a Disco??

Is there steel in the roof of a disco? 

I was having the same quandry with my 88 - magnetic antenna mounts are cheaper
but they don't stick too well to aluminum...

Yes, the roof of a Disco is made of steel to give it rigidity.

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From: Gregspitz@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 16:26:39 -0400
Subject: Re: D90 trailer wiring

standard wiring from any trailer will work..just had a 4 flat and a 6 round
adapter for my trailer to tow my atv.  Anyone can do this...cheap to have the
trailer people do it.

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From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 15:19:26 -0500
Subject: Re:  Incompetent mechanics (rant)

clinton writes:

>Nobody but me ever touches Emerson again.  I don't mind fixing
>stuff that goes wrong as a matter of course, but it really peeves
>me to have to deal with stupid mistakes that I *payed* somone
>to inflict.

Ditto. I felt really edgy even having a shop do a pressure bleed of my brakes.
I think of it like this: 1) no one at any shop in this town knows more about
LRs than me. Sure, some know cars or general mechanics better than me, but
LRs are quirky and most "mechanics" only know how to hook up the diagnostic
computer to the car's camputer and tell you what the computer told him.

2) While I don't do a lot of remote driving, I still subscribe to the LR
mentality that I want to be *able* to go anywhere. And going anywhere means
that I will be far, far away from a mechanic (thank god), so I better know
about my own truck in case I get stranded someplace.

3) If something does break while far, far away, it better be something new
and unexpected or something thats my own fault. It does no good cursing and
swearing at a mechanic that screwed something up whos 500 miles away. If its
my own fault I deserve what I get, and unexpected things happen all the time.
But woe if someone else makes me walk 20 miles, not to mention getting passed 
on the trial by wranglers...

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

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From: SSINKULE@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 16:48:01 -0400
Subject: STAGE 1 V-8 4 sale

I have my personal Stage 1 V-8 for sale if anyone is interested. 68,000 km.
LHD, New interior, paint, brake system, tires, wheels, clutch, wrap around
bull bar, trop top.   E-mail ATLANTA67@AOL.COM

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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 17:04:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@synapse.net>
Subject: Re: Incompetent mechanics (rant)

At 07:29 AM 04/06/96 -0700, Clinton D. Coates, wrote

>If you are ever broken down in Smithers in northern
>British Columbia

Why would a mechanic cut a groove in the post?

BTW, I ripped the exhaust system completely off my car at Smithers about ten
years ago. 

			Rick Grant

rgrant@synapse.net			1959, SII   "VORIZO"
Ottawa, Canada

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From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 17:43:47 -0400
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

In a message dated 96-06-04 16:37:03 EDT, you write:

>Is there steel in the roof of a disco? 

Yes... for rigidity according to the sales manual.

On another note, there were several threads regarding hood-mounted spares.
 Mike wrote "Fraid I'm going to have to correct an item here. The bonnet skin
is steel, not aluminum, the underlying frame is also steel. The bulkhead and
door frames are also steel."

I also had a note that didn't apprear to be posted to the lists.  
It reads as follows, "Mike is wrong - All Defenders incl. Series III etc have
aluminium bonnets, RR and Disco have steel bonnets, although the first few
RRs had Aluminium.
The Defender 90/110/130 have an aluminium bonnet with steel bracing and if
you 
have the bonnet mounted spare there is some extra bracing with a solid
support 
strut instead of the scissor type stay.
I have a D110 with the optional(UK) bonnet mounted spare wheel, and my
previous 
D90 had one and of course my Series III lightweight has one.
I believe that problems do occur with bonnets, but only where there is a lot
of 
severe vibration such as driving on wash board type surfaces, failure is
usually
by fatigue cracking. See also Summer issue of Landrover Owner International
(No.
7) which has photos of Camel Trophy 110 support vehicles with bonnet and rear

door mounted spares - they seem to survive.
The spare does obscure the view ahead, but this is only a problem when
cresting 
rises while off-roading, it is not unusual for people to take the spare off
the 
bonnet while doing the serious stuff. For road use, you can still see the
front 
corners of the vehicle, so parking is not a problem and I find that the
better 
visiblity out the back more than makes up for the loss to the front.

If you need more details I can fax the page from my parts manual.
N.B. It is important that the extra bracing is fitted for strength, plus for 
safety the solid strut."

Well, I guess the truth is somewhere in between because my Disco hood won't
hold a magnet!

Gerry "PHX: 112" Elam

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From: Inkornoink@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 17:44:59 -0400
Subject: Re: STAGE 1 V-8 4 sale

In a message dated 96-06-04 16:55:56 EDT, you write:

>I have my personal Stage 1 V-8 for sale if anyone is interested. 68,000 km.
>LHD, New interior, paint, brake system, tires, wheels, clutch, wrap around
>bull bar, trop top.   E-mail ATLANTA67@AOL.COM

hi sean...

I might be...if you've lowered you asking price....how much are you
asking.....what color is this one....what year is this one titled as?

thanks, 

hank

Inkornoink@aol.com

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Date: Tue, 04 Jun 1996 15:54:39 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@comox.island.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch problem

JDSalerno@aol.com wrote:

> I have a series III 88 and I've recently noticed a change in the clutch.

Check the fluid level. It sounds low. In addition to topping it up you 
will need to bleed it at the slave cylinder.

Cheers, Greg

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Date: Tue, 04 Jun 1996 16:13:36 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@comox.island.net>
Subject: Re: Handbrake return spring- Where does the end mount?

Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:

 
> Rather than the later bracket type that incorporates a mount for the spring
> end, my pivot mount is held directly to the frame by a pair of through bolts in
> the rail. Where the heck did the spring end attach?

Mine's set up this way. lower mount is an L-shaped bracket held to the 
transmission mount by two bolts. The upper mount is a tab with a hole in 
it just located just above the clevis end on the vertically oriented 
connecting rod that is part of the linkage. I'm assuming left hand drive 
here. I couldn't tell where you're at from your address.

Cheers, Greg

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From: Gregspitz@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 19:26:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Air suspension on a Defender?

Try looking into the Old Man Emu suspension kit supposed to be the best for
the Defender.

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From: RALPH@SMUGGITS.MHS.CompuServe.COM
Date: 04 Jun 96 18:39:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Re: More electrics

Richard,

I hope you are right about your LR running better than ever, even after 
reconstructing my distributor I have seen some improvement, I drove it 
across London to Copthorne (A1) then City then A23, totally fine, 
wonderful to drive up to 65 mph, no problem (apart from the noise, new 
stereo to drown that out though :-) ). I get to the M23 and immediatly 
the problem resurfaces, down to 50mph at times, better than before, but 
by no means perfect. Off the motorway, the roar of the V8 returns. I 
beginning to think that my 101 just doesn't like motorways, I think it's 
intimidated by the expectation of speed. I've given up on mechanics, I 
think councilling is the only cure. Car psycologists, what a thought!

On a more reasonable note I think I'm going to get it professionally 
tuned, which should help the economy too, carbs and distributor checked, 
maybe as I said electronic ignition too.

The reason I asked what garage it was, was because I was arguing the 
merits of dealerships versus independants with my girlfriend, she was 
suggesting that I take it to the local LR place (in Crawley, 
coincidentally) and I said, no point, independants are better and 
cheaper. I use your case as evidence on my side. I also imagine going up 
to reception, having parked the 101 outside and the receptionist saying 
'sorry, we only service Land Rovers here.'

As for electonic ignition it comes in various forms, some replace the 
points, some just use the points to trigger the discharge of the 
electronic unit, I know and have had Luminition reccomended, this uses a 
rotor and optical sensor to detect the timing and a seperate unit for the 
sparks. This is about *120, I don't know about the others. I as I said am 
looking for a unit which is 24V hopefully a whole intergrated electronic 
dist\ coil\ ignition unit, but it's possible (could people on the list 
please tell me if I'm wrong about this!) to use a 24-12V inverter, only 
about 4A is drawn by ignition. Or if the unit has a constant resistance a 
ballast resistor could be used. This is what you have already I suspect, 
the 24V ignition systems are actually screened, waterproofed 12V systems 
with a series resistor to drop the voltage (they are in a 101 anyway.)

Anyway, Good luck,

Ralph.

101 FC 

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Date: Tue, 04 Jun 1996 20:11:16 -0500
From: David William Scott <birddog@mindspring.com>
Subject: oil-temp mechanical guages,brake modifications

I have a combo oil-temp guage on my 67 88, I need to fix the temp side.  RN
say rebuild for 120 bucks, AB say sorry no ideas. Can anyone help?  The
problem with the linkage for the zenith carb was solved. Thanks to jeremy
for the help.  AB sent me an intruction leaflet  that told how to set up for
a weber.  The ideas they had plus some mods allowed me to modify the
existing linkage to work.  Last Question, my 69 88 bugeye has so many PO
mods I'm forever confused(not that it takes much), when taking down the rear
axle, wheels etc. the rear brake drums are larger and have larger shoes than
the front, not so on the 67.  Did the PO just put 109 drums\shoes on the
rear? or did some 88's come that way.  Are the backing plates the same for
the 109 and the 88?f  Ignorance is not bliss....  birddog

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From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Incompetent mechanics (rant)
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 11:00:46 +0930 (CST)

Clinton D. Coates writes:

> snail cam adjustors could rotate freely through 360+ degrees
> without moving the shoe at all.  It seems that someone (at OK
> Tire) decided to use a hack saw to cut a deep groove in the post
> on the brake shoe that the adjustor bears against???

Careful, these grooves develop over time.  I'm guess in that the groove 
is just slightly larger than the width of the snail cam, which is *much* 
thicher than a hacksaw blade...

I dont know if the presence of grooves indicates some fault or is just 
normal wear but small grooves appeared within 18mth on brand new LR shoes 
on the front of my stage 1.

As for the adjuster rotating without making contact.  If this is rear 
drums we are talking about then its likely that the shoes are on back to 
front.  This results in one cam barely making contact and the other 
having very little travel.

Just some thoughts

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

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From: CarPhonMan@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 21:33:57 -0400
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Mag Mount,,  NO Problama Man.Top On Disco Is Steel.

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From: "Hugh Grierson" <Hugh.Grierson@trimble.co.nz>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 13:30:25 +1200
Subject: Re: oil-temp mechanical guages,brake modifications

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From: FOSTERLOHR@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 22:25:53 -0400
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Re: ATF IN MANUAL

I own a rare for the States Stage One V8 109 Pickup and the original manual
specifically states that I should be running 20/50 in both the Transmission
and the Transfer Case.  The tranny is an early RR type 4 speed.  I believe
the reason for the lighter weight oil is that the manual transmission has
it's own circulation pump and can't handle the 90 wt.  ...Hope this helps.

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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 17:14:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Hal Leininger <halgram@slip.net>
Subject: SUBBING

I think I got deleted from the list, would someone send me the
subscription info. TIA

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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 21:01:19 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Re: Handbrake return spring- Where does the end mount?

You wrote: 

>Rather than the later bracket type that incorporates a mount for the spring 
>end, my pivot mount is held directly to the frame by a pair of through bolts 
in 
>the rail. Where the heck did the spring end attach?
>Any information most appreciated. -ajr

Going by memory (always dangerous in my case) this sounds like the same set up 
as mine ('65 109).  There should be 2 mount tabs for the spring.  One on the 
transfer case housing and one on the end of the vertical lever for the brake.

cheers,

Jeremy

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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 21:14:57 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Dormobile Parts

At  2:27 PM 6/4/96 -0500, Mike Smith wrote:
Mike,

I'm in for a total of 3, two for myself and one for David Reha.

Just let me know when to write the check and how much to make it for.

Meanwhile...

At this time I have the bows to my top being reproduced in stainless steel
tubing.  The middle third of one of my original bows turned to rust dust
and the other three are severly pitted.  A local Dormobile owner trying to
put a poor condition Dormobile back together is having a second set made
using my old bows as a pattern.  The ones for his car were cut and bent.

In about 2 weeks the fiberglass top is coming off to be rebuilt.  I have
found a craftsman who will repair the tares, remove the old gel coat and
put a new gel coat on the top.  When the Dormobile  crashed, if went over
on its side and slid untill the top came into contact with something.
There are two tares in the top and the gel coat is a mass of cracks.  The
end product should look like new and be a little stronger.

The Dormobile my friend is restoring has a pop-up cloth that has been cut.
He will need to put in a new one.  Would you know if the original ABS
'cloth' is still available and from whom?

I am still looing for a grill for my stove.  Its a colar Arel stove. '67
era with a bent wire grill  Any leads?  I will be in the UK next month, and
ideas of where I can look?

Take care

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com   <- NOTE NEW ADDRESS

Celebrating my tenth year on Usenet/Internet

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From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 00:15:07 -0400
Subject: Oil Filter Seal Removal

Nate Dunsmore asked about oil seal removal. I have used (when necessary) a
variation of his small screw driver technique, only using a "pointy probe"
(ala electrical circuit testor) to 'stick' into the seal and pull it out. By
using that, it prevents the seal from rotating around and eluding removal.
see 'ya on the old road...
Jim '61 LR 88" SW  w/ 16's, OD 1 Bbl weber (econobox?)  "Nicky"
LR...quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised!  

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From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de
Subject: Re: ATF in manual transmission
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 08:18:55 +0200 (METDST)

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From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de
Subject: Re: Where is the frame number on SIII 109? Thanks!!
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 08:34:43 +0200 (METDST)

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From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 08:01:05 +0000
Subject: Re: Handbrake return spring- Where does the end mount?

Quoting Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus, from  4 Jun 96

> Rather than the later bracket type that incorporates a mount for the
> spring end, my pivot mount is held directly to the frame by a pair of
> through bolts in the rail. Where the heck did the spring end attach?
I was in the same situation....

In the end, I used a jubilee-clip round the top ot the pivot to hold the 
top of the spring.

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

Quote of 1996: "A.L.S. is a good example of scottishissityness"

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From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 08:03:29 +0000
Subject: Re: 5-speed vs. automatic for Discovery?

Quoting Alex Bochannek, from  3 Jun 96

> According to our local Land Rover dealer only 5% of all Discoveries
> are shipped with a manual transmission. Is the automatic really
> superior or does the typical buyer in the US just not care for the
> manual?
My understanding is that Yanks don't like manual boxes. Having said that, 
the Auto-box is often better off-road than a manual...

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

Quote of 1996: "A.L.S. is a good example of scottishissityness"

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From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: ATF in manual transmission
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 16:58:55 +0930 (CST)

> | I own a rare for the States Stage One V8 109 Pickup and the original manual
> | specifically states that I should be running 20/50 in both the Transmission
> | and the Transfer Case.

Franz comments:           ^^^^^^^^^^^^
> sounds strange. If it's the LT230 transfer case, my manual says 90w.

Not really strange as its not a 5spd lt77/lt85 + LT230 system.  the stage
1 4sp is an LT95 the g-box and T-case are a one piece casting.  Engine oil
(20w/50) is the lubricant of choice for these boxes. 

cheers

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

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From: Spenny@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 05:56:11 -0400
Subject: Rear Crossmember for sale

Having completed my frameover, I have a one year old galvy crossmember with
18" extensions & Spring shackles for sale.
You will have to get what is left of my frame out of the extensions, easy
work with a grinder or blue wrench...

It is currently located north of boston

New fron RN $225

no reasonable offer refused...

spenny@aol.com

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