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From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de
Subject: Re: ATF in Manual Transmissions
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 15:00:33 +0200 (METDST)

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From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 08:09:21 -0500
Subject: Re:  CB in a Disco??

Is there steel in the roof of a disco? 

I was having the same quandry with my 88 - magnetic antenna mounts are cheaper
but they don't stick too well to aluminum...

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

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Date: Mon, 03 Jun 1996 10:12:24 -0400
From: Rob MacCormick <Rob_MacCormick@Harvard.Edu>
Subject: "Scotty's" et al. ?'s

I find myself in the position of evaluating for purchase a '68 IIa 109 w/ a
chevy straight 6 conversion....("Scotty's" I'm told) How would I go about
determining the vintage of the engine? Why should I care?, I'm asked....My
rationale is that if (when) something takes on an illness, how do I obtain
the appropriate parts? Do certain vintages have inherit strengths or
weaknesses? I'd like to put this well rested beauty into more regular use
and as such want to be equipped with a inventory (paper) of appropriate
spares. Any other information with regard to this type of conversion would
be well received as well......I found the FAQ on evaluation helpful, I also
feel fortunate to have a very knowledgable individual "strirred into" the
sale...

This would be my 1st Land Rover and as such I look forward to the pain and
suffering (er, joy) of LRO.....Rob M Concord, MA USA rob_maccormick@harvard.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Jun 1996 07:56:49 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@comox.island.net>
Subject: Re: "Scotty's" et al. ?'s

Rob MacCormick wrote:

> I find myself in the position of evaluating for purchase a '68 IIa 109 w/ a
> chevy straight 6 conversion....("Scotty's" I'm told) How would I go about
> determining the vintage of the engine? Why should I care?

Not for purists a lot of people seem to hate these engines in LR's. I 
think it's directly related to the difficulty of installation. The block 
is long compared to the 4 banger and there are clearance problems between 
the harmonic balancer (crank pulley) and the front frame crossmember. As 
a result I have seen several such swaps in which the engine was angled 
somewhat away from parallel with a fore/aft line. Sloppy work IMO. The 
motor itself? Very smooth, bags of torque, and readily modifieable if 
stock is not enough. I put one in my previous SWB (250 c.i. bored .30, w/ 
aluminum intake and 390cfm Holley 4 bbl). At the bottom of a local 8% 
grade I could nail it from 600rpm in 4th O.D. (you will need an overdrive 
or higher ratio - lower numerically -diffs) and be doing more than 70 mph 
at the top without ever shifting (to the absolute amazement of friends 
with V8 powered pickup trucks). Some complain that these engines run hot. 
I haven't found that to be the case but mine was on a fresh rebuild and I 
had changed the rad. Still the Kenlowe (no room for the stock fan) seldom 
came on  unless I was idling in traffic.

Later 250 c.i. motors had the intake manifold cast integrally with the 
head and these are inferior. Thankfully the earlier independant 
head/manifolds are a bolt on.

Cheers, Greg

BTW I was getting 19 mpg combined with the chev 6

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 11:38:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jonathan Morris Coulter <jcoulter@warren-wilson.edu>
Subject: cancel subscription

  I am going away from this location this summer.  As a result, I am 
requesting to cancel my subscription.  Thank you.

  jonathan
  
  jcoulter@warren-wilson.edu

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: More electrics
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 96 16:38:27 BST

As people can probably guess, I've been having some serious engine problems
over the past few weeks.
Such things as valves were all red-herrings.

In the end it went to the local Land Rover Franchise, and they've had it for
just under a week. Just got off the phone from them.
Basically its as follows:

They're replaced coil & condenser (and distrib. arm I think),etc.
Done loads of checks - compression,etc.
Now drives okay (I had to be towed there), but tends to backfire and
stop on idling - or that's what it sounded like they were describing.
It drives, so it looks like I'll be picking it up tomorrow, and I'll know
for sure what its like.
They think it might be the distributor, but seem very unwilling about 
replacing it. I don't think they're that sure.
I'll read up on the books tonight, but does anyone have any ideas?  Without
driving it, its a bit hard to describe!

They suggest perhaps taking it to another garage (they're not the cheapest,
being a franchise), but there don't seem to be many LR ones around.

I'm wanting to take it to Cambridge next week, and Scotland at the end of the
month...

Richard
(ex-Gurkha SIII FFR)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Jun 1996 11:36:51 -0400
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Oil filter seals

Hi all,

Just changed the oil again on the rover.   Biggest hassle is getting the
old seal out of the base to put a new one in.  Sometimes I just leave the
old one in.  I'm curious if there's a slick (pun intended) way to get
the old seal out.  I've been using a skinny little screwdriver (Craftsman of 
course) but perhaps there's a better way....

Nate Dunsmore
Rocking Horse Farm
Boring, MD 21020
dunsmo19@us.net

------------------------------

From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 10:32:29 -0500
Subject: Re:  More electrics

Richard wrote:

> Now drives okay (I had to be towed there), but tends to backfire and
> stop on idling - or that's what it sounded like they were describing.

What kind of carb is in it? Mine used to do that when I first got it. I
have a Zeneth carb and the float was out of adjustment, causing it to run
really rich, flooding it at idle and backfiring, etc. It would backfire 
when shifting and flood esprcially when the motor was warmed up (as in
coming off the freeway).

Another problem is that the halves of the Zenith can warp, allowing gas 
into the throat, giving the same problems. Someone told me to get some
really fine sand paper, tape it to a piece of glass, and sand the faces
down until they are flush. This also sounded pretty common with the Zeniths.

In either case, it takes only a couple hours to check it out. The carb is
really simple...

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 19:37:57 +0300
From: frank seidler <isnfs@logos.cy.net>
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe lro-digest

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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 09:55:00 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Re: Zenith Carb linkage

You wrote: 

>my early 67 88 had a solex carb, swithed to a zenith carb but the linkage is
>exactly opposite,  down opens it up.  Seems like this was covered by haynes,
>but I don't have my manual.  Can someone in digestland help?  

I've converted to a Zenith.  You need to get a new set of linkage parts (arm, 
linkage, spring, spring washer, bushes etc.; sorry don't have the manual etc. in 
front of me) to convert.  Let me know if RN, BP or whoever can't help and I'll 
dig up what I used.  No it's not covered in explicit detail in any of Haynes/LR 
or ? (that I've found).

I also found that I had to bend the arm a bit after installation to get a good 
angle for operation (up and down as oppossed to angled out). 

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 12:07:15 GMT -0600
Subject: hello

Well, it appears that it pays to read message headers. It seems I 
forgot to subcribe to the land rover list after I got back from 
Nashville. I never noticed because I haven't been reading the "from" 
or "reply to" fields on messages.
So, what have I missed?
Just kidding, I'll get the digests.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 13:15:37 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Calling Jim Pappas

Dear List,
        Jim Pappas, could you please email me direct as soon as possible.
About the BSROA and the July Rally. Thanks.
        See ya!

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  3 Jun 96 12:44:36 EDT
Subject: Antennas on cars for transmitters/CBs

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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 10:43:17 -0700
From: jimmyp@netcom.com (jimmy patrick)
Subject: Re: ATF in Manual Transmissions

>This Saturday I discovered that I have ATF instead of
>20W50 engine oil in the tranny.   ARRGH!!

Do you use 20W50 in the tranny? Over here (North America) we use 90wt gear
oil.....

jimmy

--
Jimmy Patrick
jimmyp@netcom.com
                                                 

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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 15:01:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bruce Davis <daviscar@cris.com>
Subject: Re: Two 109 IIa's for sale

At 04:55 PM 6/1/96 -0500, you wrote:

1964 109 IIa SW runs rough great restoration project. $1800

You say it runs, could it be driven a long distance "safely"?
Hows the frame on it? can you send me pictures of it?
just how rough is it?

I know of one that was just about to brake in two that is a basket case to
me. is it better then that?

I also have a rebuilt frame with new shocks, suspension, reuilt SPHs and 
new tires and  2 new sixteen inch wheels.  Accepting offers.
 
Tell me more!

I live about 35 miles north of Duluth MN.
How far would you say that is from Chicago?

Bruce
67 SIIA 88 Patches

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Date: 03 Jun 96 15:52:58 EDT
From: D Hand <103535.3075@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Help - 2.5 ltr cracked head

HELP@!!!

After seeing re-occuring white/grayish gook inside, I had a friend take the head
off the engine and replace the head gasket and various other bits and pieces.
Now he seems to think that the head may be cracked.    The engine (I believe) is
a 2.5 litre 4 cylinder probably from a very early 110, now sitting in my Series
I.

What are the options when this happens, and the typical costs?

Dave

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