Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 10:00:32 +0100
From: "M.G.Forster" <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: New owner with questions

At 22:34 22/05/96 -0600, Rick Robinson wrote:

>Hello everyone!  I am glad to be part of this fairly happy crew.
>Recently I purchased:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>Safari Top w/removable luggage rack (Jamboree rack?)
>2.25L petrol

>1.  The transmission seems to be making a rattling noise when idling. 
>It certainly seems related to the clutch, since when I depress the
>clutch pedal, the noise goes away.  Otherwise, the gears seem to be
>working, the synchros are working, however it is sometimes a little
>tricky to get into first gear when sitting still.

Mine does this too. I have changed the synchro unit on third/fourth more
than once, the springs go on them, and tried to find the source of the
rattling. My gearbox was a reconditioned one fitted in 1989 so should not be
worn out yet. The people who do my MOT reckoned that all Landy gearboxes
were noisy, and I must admit all those I have had have been, but my Series
III rattles more than the others did. Someone else said that the lay-shaft
bearings needed changing, but I would have thought that would have been a
different sought of noise. I think the main cause is in the selector forks
and rods which hold them, together with the gear stick itself, it should
have a rubber washer round the small ball at the bottom of the stick which
stops some of the rattle, for about a day!! Depressing the clutch pedal
stops the gears going round so the noise stops as well.
My wife thinks =A3150.00 worth of sound -proofing would cure it, I might try
that next.

>2.  I am pretty sure that the steering box is a little worn.  There is
>play in the steering that cannot be attributed to sloppy linkages.  Can
>the box be rebuilt?  If so what is the relative difficulty and cost.

I have never played with the steering box, just keep it topped up with oil.
I once changed a relay arm, right pain to get the old one out and it was
full of water and well worn!. The new one made a lot of difference, but
there always seems a lot of play in Landy steering.
>2.  I am pretty sure that the steering box is a little worn.  There is
M.G.Forster
Senior Technician
School of Computing
Staffordshire University
Leek Road
Stoke-on-Trent
ST4 2AZ
Tel: 01782 29 4255  http://arthur.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick

------------------------------

From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 08:30:22 -0500
Subject: Bizarre Lucas stuff

Ok, so I know that "Bizarre Lucas..." is an oxymoron. But this one, so far,
is the strangest Lucas problem I've had. I was driving to work yesterday, 
pulling out of the garage actually, and the truck died. Again. No lights,
no ignition, nothing. And this time, no smoke or fire. :-)

I thought my repair job on the voltage regualtor failed, so that was where I
started after work. I took the VR off, and everything looked fine, my solder
joints looked ok. I put the VR back on, without the cover, and tried the 
key again. This time, I get the dash lights. Wierd. So I put the cover and
clip back on the VR, and am going to take it for a test drive, and no power
again. Very wierd. Take the cover off - power again. I thought maybe the clip
was contacting the metal in the back, so I just put the cover on without the
clip, and no power again.

I went back to my old VR, took the cover and clip off of that and put it on,
and everything worked normally. 

Something about the new (last fall) voltage regualtor cover must be causing
a short in the VR. Wait - isn't this *plastic*? Sheesh. Must be some kind of
strange plastic... I suppose if you put enough current through, anyhting will
conduct, either that or the relay can't actuate or something. 

Went for my longest drive yet - 10 miles last night (around Lake Harriet), 
and turned over 85000 miles. That was fun. As a reward I put the mud flaps on
'im when I got home...

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 08:42:49 -0400
From: michelbe@login.net (Michel)
Subject: Re: New owner with questions

Rick was asking: 

        >2.  I am pretty sure that the steering box is a little worn.  There is 
        >play in the steering that cannot be attributed to sloppy linkages.
Can 
        >the box be rebuilt? 

Maybe your steering box is out of adjustment. You need a 3/8 spanner in
order to turn the adjusting nut on the side of the box. You can access it
via underneath the wing if the mudshield has disapeared. 

Could save you lots of trouble, time, and $$, of course...

Hope it helps, 

Welcome to the family, 

Michel Bertrand
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada
             ______________________ 
 >>>>>>>>>>>|__________|| ()|______| 1963 IIA 109 PU (top is off) (Rudolph)
            |          ||---|  /\ |  and friends (109 SW + 88 sw) (not shown) 
            |__________||---|_ \/_| 
 >>>>>>>>>>>|__________||___|______|
                                             

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 08:10:44 -0400
From: michelbe@login.net (Michel)
Subject: Re: New owner with questions

Rick was asking: 

        >2.  I am pretty sure that the steering box is a little worn.  There is 
        >play in the steering that cannot be attributed to sloppy linkages.
Can 
        >the box be rebuilt? 

Maybe your steering box is out of adjustment. You need a 3/8 spanner in
order to turn the adjusting nut on the side of the box. You can access it
via underneath the wing if the mudshield has disapeared. 

Could save you lots of trouble, time, and $$, of course...

Hope it helps, 

Welcome to the family, 

Michel Bertrand
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada
             ______________________ 
 >>>>>>>>>>>|__________|| ()|______| 1963 IIA 109 PU (top is off) (Rudolph)
            |          ||---|  /\ |  and friends (109 SW + 88 sw) (not shown) 
            |__________||---|_ \/_| 
 >>>>>>>>>>>|__________||___|______|
                                             

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 10:28:35 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: 88 and 90 chassis

Dear All,
        Had quite a few emails recently about 88 and 90 chassis. The bolt
up crowd will want to take a pass on this conversion. It is not an easy
one. Anything is possible, just depends on how good you are with a torch
and welder. The 109 and 110 chassis are closer, but still some major
differences apply. None of these thigs will *bolt in*, you will be in deep
custom ground, so be ready for it. Many problems arrise, if you want to use
your 2.25 and 4 speed, you will have no gearbox or engine cross member, and
most found over here are power steering chassis, so the front cross member
will be too far ahead, and there will be no where for your steering relay.
These little quirks go on and on through the entire process. A 110 frame,
unless heavily modified will need a defender style front clip, or nose. The
list goes on.
        The 88 and 90 swap is even worse. If you don't use the D90 rear
body, the wheel opening will be wrong. As someone mentioned, the D90
wheelbase is not 90 inches, it is longer, as he said. Again the engine
comes into play, what are you going to do about the power steering, SIIA's
look pretty stupid with a Defender steering column in them. What about the
front end, the rear wheel opening, wheels flares, gearbox, drive shaft
lengths, etc.
        If anyone is seriously looking into this, explore the alternatives.
If you are a great fabricator, and want to have some fun... go for it, but
if you are looking for quick easy bolt process, beware.
        This may sound like an advert, but I don't want anyone stuck with a
half done 90 to 88 swap, that costs them too much, and might never get
done. There are EASY, BOLT UP, ways to coil an 88 and a 109. It might even
cost less then the 90 and 110 chassis your looking into. I don't want to
advertise here, so if you are serious about wanting 4 wheel disc brakes,
better performance, and the coil ride like you said, email me direct.

        Jeremy...The fuel sender... sometimes just a simple slight bend in
the rod is all it takes to get the correct reading.

        Thanks, see ya.

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

From: krm@mtnms.att.com (K.MOHLENHOFF)
Date: Thu, 23 May 96 10:24:31 EDT
Subject: Were any IIA 2.25P engines built for unleaded?

Greetings;
I just purchased a '71 IIA  88 2.25P and was wondering if it needs to be
run on leaded fuel? I don't have much experience with Rover gas engines, 
my other Rover is a diesel.

Keith R. Mohlenhoff
krm@mtnms.att.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 07:03:05 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: New owner with questions

At 10:34 PM 5/22/96 -0600, Mage wrote:
>Hello everyone!  I am glad to be part of this fairly happy crew.
>Recently I purchased:
>1974 SIII 88"
;
>1.  The transmission seems to be making a rattling noise when idling.
>It certainly seems related to the clutch, since when I depress the
;clutch pedal, the noise goes away.  Otherwise, the gears seem to be
>working, the synchros are working, however it is sometimes a little
>tricky to get into first gear when sitting still.  What are the guesses
;to what is going on?  If anyone has more specific questions, I will be
>glad to answer.
;
First you might want to check a couple of things outside the transmission.
While the car is idling and rattling, grab the hi-lo range shifter and see
if that affects/eliminates the rattle.  If yes you are missing a cheap
anti-rattle clip that goes on the ball of the shifter.  Do the same to the
shift leaver.  Move around the transmision area, putting pressure on
different parts to see if the noise is outside the transmission.

If you really think its in the transmission/bellhousing, you have two
choices: drive it , maybe for years) until whatever it is breaks then have
it towed home & rebuild the transmission; proactivly pull the transmission
and go through it replacing all worn parts & poping a new clutch &
transmission mounts while you are at it.  I have been informed that Rover
will be making major cost increases on gears in the nearish future.

>2.  I am pretty sure that the steering box is a little worn.  There is
>play in the steering that cannot be attributed to sloppy linkages.  Can
>the box be rebuilt?

Be sure to check the bolts holding the steering box to the frame, mine were
loose,  There is an adjuster on the side of the steering box. Follow the
workshop manual to adjust.

> (I have been running a
>lifted 1980 full size Bronco for awhile) but this is the first time that
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>Let me close by saying......  I LOVE IT!!!!
>Rick Robinson

Your mane is not Taylor so I'm not suprised you love the LR after the Bronco.

Some advice for the new owner:

1. Get the factory workshop mauals.  The Hays manual has a number of
mistakes.  The Brits have some different ways of doing mechanicals that
could confuse Americans not used to British cars.

2. Use DOT4 or DOT5 brake fluid only.  DOT3 wil shorten the life of the
rubber parts.

3. Replace all fluids in the car.  You don't know when it was last done or
if they were the correct fluids.

4. If your going to do offroading, check the engine and transmission mounts
& replace as needed.  Each mount has metal bonded to rubber.  The mounts
separate there when they get badly worn.  The result is a fan blade through
the radiator.

5. Your all syncro transmission will live longer if you never try to speed
shift.  They have a bad rep for being weak. But it seems to result from
people trying to frequently do fast shifts.  The transmission is designed
so that certain parts come to a hault as the lever hits the neutral
position.  If you pause there very briefly while shifting you will not have
thay problem.

6. The rear axles are the weak part of the design. Over time and stress
they will crystalize and break at the inside edge of ether the inner or
outer splines.  I have been told that they will twist a little before
breaking and that a painted line can be drawn & checked after putting
stress of the axles.

If you break one, replace both.  If you don't know the history of your
axles, you might want to throw them away and replace them so you KNOW you
are starting with good uncrystalized axles.  Some people carry a spare set
of new axles.  Others, may just replace the axles every 25000 or 50000
miles.  When axles break at the inside splines, the chips frequently break
the ring & pinion gears.

When i purchased my 109, I broke and axle a few months after getting it
running, then broke the other rear axle a month later going around a corner
on a paved road.  Both broke on the inside and cost me a set of ring &
pinion gears.

Don't let the above scare you off.  Rovers are amazing strong cars.  You
just don't know what previous owners may have done or how worn your parts
are.  And a little $$ and effort up front can save a lot of $$$ and
frustration later.

Good luck with your new beastie

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com   <- NOTE NEW ADDRESS

Celebrating my tenth year on Usenet/Internet

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 07:58:53 -0400
From: Tim McDaniel <mcdaniel@adra.com>
Subject: Re: What things to look out for??

At 07:28 PM 5/22/96 GMT, you wrote:

>Im considering to bye me a 1965 LR - all i know about him is that he has
>always been well looked after - The thing is the engine has NOT been turned
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>concept used!!!)
>iii) brakes
>iv)  all the other things!!!

        I can only speak about my experiences so far.  I bought a Rover
        that had been sitting for 5 years.  It's not on the road yet, but
        it's getting closer.  It was not running when I bought it, but it
        had been running when it was parked 5 years earlier.

        Here are the problems that I encountered:

        1.  The engine was stiff, but not stuck.  I "loosened" it with
            the hand crank and a bit of oil in each cylinder.  I changed
            the oil first.

        2.  The radiator hoses were shot and had to be replaced.

        3.  Ignition wiring, plugs, distributor cap/rotor, points, and
            condenser also had to be replaced before it would start.

        4.  Some brake lines were corroded through.  I expect problems
            with the rubber in the brake cylinders also.  The flexible
            rubber brake lines are being replaced.

        5.  The tires dryed out and need to be replaced.

        6.  The jets in the carb were clogged and the rubber parts 
            (diaphragms) rotted.  A rebuild kit solved that one.

        My Rover had been stored outside under a hemlock tree so it became
        home to all sorts of forest critters and acquired numerous nests
        and a large amount of odor.  I've never seen so many mouse turds
        in one place in my life.  I found nests in the tool box, behind the 
        dash, and I think there is another one behind the headliner.  The
        odor is tolerable now...

        The main problem with it's storage location was the acceleration of 
        rust.  The footwells and doorposts had a lot of rot and need 
        replacing which I am doing now.  The same holds true for several 
        spots on the frame.  The bottom window channels are in bad shape also.

        I think the acidity and moisture of the storage were the main causes 
        of these problems and may not apply in your case.  I paid very little
        for this Rover, and have not put that much additional money into
        it yet, so I still view these problems as minor.

                                Good Luck!

                                        Tim

                                        72 Series III 88

        

    +----------------------------------------------------------------------+
    | Tim McDaniel                               (508) 937-3700 ext. 725   |
    | Adra Systems, Inc.                         (508) 453-2462 (FAX)      |
    | 2 Executive Drive                                                    |
    | Chelmsford, MA  01824                      mcdaniel@adra.com         |
    | USA                                                                  |
    +----------------------------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 10:04:33 -0400
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Re: New owner with questions

Mage wrote:
> Hello everyone!  I am glad to be part of this fairly happy crew.
> Recently I purchased:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
> am fairly proficient at performing my own repairs (I have been running a
> lifted 1980 full size Bronco for awhile) but this is the first time that
> I have ever owned a Land Rover.

Rick,

The steering box can be rebuilt but parts are expensive.  So much so that I decided for 
the $100 more I'd get a new one (however, this may be different for a SIII, I have an 
earlier IIa).  My recollection is that a new SIII box is about 300 and the parts are 
close.  You may want to check the oil level in the box first, fill it if low and test 
the drive.  When I rebuilt my SIIa the steering was very sloppy.  The box was bone dry 
and unfortunately all bearing surfaces were history.  I had the added problem of RHD so 
there's not many spare boxes in good shape floating around the US.

Good Luck and Welcome Aboard

Nate Dunsmore
Rocking Horse Farm
Boring, MD 21020
dunsmo19@us.net

------------------------------

Date: 23 May 1996 11:08:08 -0400
From: "Sean McInerney" <smcinerney@mail.nrgn.com>
Subject: Re: Baby is Here!

 RE>Baby is Here!
>John Cassidy
>Bangor, Maine USA

>2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
>4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover, 1966 Series IIA

I wanna go play at John's house!

Sean McInerney
New Haven, CT USA

2 Wheels: 1979 BMW R65
4 Wheels: 1963 Land-Rover SIIa 88" Basic Hardtop

Congratulations on the new arrival.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 09:03:26 MST
From: ROB MODICA <rmodica@east.pima.edu>
Subject: "Road Rage"

An article in this morning's Arizona Daily Star here in Tucson discusses the
increasing number of violent confrontations between drivers on British
highways.  Agressive driving behavior is termed "road rage".  It seems the
safest roads in the world (Britain's) are falling prey to abusive, and
sometimes fatal, behavior by drivers with a "Stone Age mentality".

Wouldn't you just know that the ONLY vehicle cited by name in the article was a
Land Rover. " On Sunday a 21 year old was fatally stabbed by the driver of a
LAND ROVER on a highway south of London."

  Well, there goes the image!!  Or here come a new image!! What a world.

Rob Modica	'51 SI 80"	'60 SII 109" Safari
Tucson AZ	'94 Disco 5spd	"Casper"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 May 96 17:51:32 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: Series 1 for sale 

Anyone interested in a completely original 1951 LHD S1,  Green, soft top, 
needs a brake job to finish. Has been under wraps for 9 years, asking 
$5000,00. Simply superb condition.

I'm posting this for a friend. E-mail me if interested

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 08:00:30 -0400
From: Rob MacCormick <Rob_MacCormick@Harvard.Edu>

Doug, Enjoy your fancy lights and tow straps....I reccomend you spring for
the winch because if your words are representative of your attitude, tow
straps won't help....You will need THE ASSISTANCE OF OTHERS to benefit from
tow strap use....

......I stopped to help.  The 
first thing he said to me was "Nice J**p".  Since he cursed at me with that 
evil four letter word, I put my D90 in gear and drove off........<

Rob M Concord, MA currently researching landrover related products for
potential purchase, This is the first time I've ever felt compelled to
distract others with my opinions..(for that I apologize)...I'm amazed by the
impact of one persons words, from now on whenever I see landrover I'll be
thinking, nice rig, I wonder if the owner is a real S.O.B that would pass by
the opportunity to lend a hand...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 12:35:44 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: More LR Date Locations

While cleaning up the individual windshield wiper motors on a SIIA I 
came across some date locations that might be of interest to those 
following such things (or "needing" them).

The numeric month and two digit year of manufacture is stamped on the 
base of the forward half of the motor housings (the end the shaft for 
the blade exits from).

The three examples I have are 12 58, 11 58, and 12 65.  The first came 
of a '59 109 wreck, the second was purchased source unknown, and the 
third came off a 4/65 produced vehicle (clearly not original).

In two of the cases, nothing was initially visible due to a thick 
"veneer" of 30+ years of dirt and grease.  ' Makes me feel like an 
archaeologist - scraping off dirt that's older than I am :)

Before you say anything, yes I know these components are mobile and 
don't necessarily date the vehicle.  However, they are one more piece 
of circumstantial evidence if you're looking.

I've generally found that Lucas liked to stamp many of their components 
in this manner, at least through the 60s.  For example, I've found 
similar dates (1 65) on the starter switch.  

cheers

Jeremy

P.S. No I don't have 3 wipers installed :)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 15:37:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@synapse.net>
Subject: Re: "Road Rage"

At 09:03 AM 23/05/96 MST, ROB MODICA, wrote

>Wouldn't you just know that the ONLY vehicle cited by name in the article was a
>Land Rover. " On Sunday a 21 year old was fatally stabbed by the driver of a
>LAND ROVER on a highway south of London."

I saw a similar, if not the same, article in this morning's New York Times
and the type of vehicle fairly lept off the page at me.  It really doesn't
matter in the scheme of things but it would be nice to think that the LR had
been stolen.

			Rick Grant

rgrant@synapse.net			1959, SII   "VORIZO"
Ottawa, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 12:43:57 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Fuel Guage Calibration

You wrote: 

>        Jeremy...The fuel sender... sometimes just a simple slight bend in
>the rod is all it takes to get the correct reading.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>        Thanks, see ya.
>From: Mike Smith

Yup, the simplest potential solution.  I need to pull the unit and work it while 
connected to the guage and ground to check whether it's offset (correctable by 
bending) or misproportioned (possible correctable by other means).

Cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 May 96 19:49:46 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: RE: S1 for Sale

I always forget to do this, I'm sure I will flamed for it. 

The S1 is in South west NH 

----------
From:  Jeremy Bartlett
Sent:  Thursday, May 23, 1996 3:41 PM
Subject:  Re. S1 for Sale

What's the location of the SI for sale?

Cheers,

Jeremy Bartlett

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 15:52:39 -0400
From: "LRO Shop (North America)" <lroshop@idirect.com>
Subject: 95 Disco Dash Replacements

The same thing happened to me not once, but twice!  In fairness the second
one did not peel.  It just wouldn't snug down with result that it creaked
horribly.  The dealer also managed to screw up the ignition alarm and the
centre heating controls so much so that I now have a 96 centre console in my
95 Disco.

Would I go through all that again.  No!  If you live with it leave well
alone even if it is warranty.  The stress is not worth it.  Probably one of
the few good things to come out of the LR purchase by BMW will be quality
control.  LR needs it big time and as a Brit I can say that.

Good luck with it.

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 18:49:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Old OD wanted

Clinton writes:

=I am looking for a thrashed-but-hopefully-rebuildable
=overdrive and all the sundry attatchments for not
=very much money.......
=Is rebuilding one of these things a stupid idea? I
=got the impression they were more or less like a small
=one gear transmission.  Also, is there any useful 
=material out there on rebuilding them?

June '96 LRO magazine, p175 is a one page article on rebuilding the
Fairey/Surewinch overdrive. All text except for two pictures. Basically
written instructions for re-assembly.

Before taking this on you might check the prices for od parts. RN carries
them, and the prices are not cheap. Several parts are over $200 US. You might
find the cost of the requild exceeding the cost of a new od.

David Cockey
Rochester, MI

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 May 1996 18:32:56
From: IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILLIAM ADAMS)
Subject: Oh, but I degrease, er, digress...

I just spent an hour cleaning the engine bay on the 109 using good old Gunk 
Engine Brite self emulsifying degreaser. The experience left me soot-black 
from head to waist, but the results art truly amazing. I knew there was an 
engine in there somewhere 'cause I can hear it running sometimes. 
To those who embark on such a brave adventure, I suggest using a stiff brush 
of several configurations to get in and around all the small places. Just 
spraying the stuff on and hosing it off won't cut the mustard, or the grease.
I admit I was rather cautionless regarding electrical bits, but hey, it's a 
diesel so what's the diff? It'll start in 3 feet of standing water. You 
petrol slaves should be careful of the Lucas stuff. Baggies over distributor 
and such nonsense.
Go man Go.
Bill Adams
3Dmentia computer animation
4016 Spruell Drive
Kensington, MD 20895
301-949-9475

'66 Land Rover S2A 109" Station Wagon Diesel  ...all there

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Overdrives
Date: Thu, 23 May 96 17:52:00 DST

The current talk of overdrives started the old brainbox ticking again. It 
occured to me that we only need overdrive for use on the highway in two 
wheel drive. Has anyone ever come across an overdrive/rear prop shaft 
arrangement.? This would provide the overdrive for highway cruising and good 
gas mileage and in the event of a failure would only require removal and 
replacement with a standard shaft or use of front wheel drive as a get you 
home patch. Could such a device be built using gears and brakes from an 
autobox ?

Trevor "your fertile field of ideas" Easton

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 17:44:59 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Kinetic ropes

Tim wrote:

>I've never used one, so I have no experience.  I have read that they 
>work...with a lot less stress on both vehicles.

You should have seen the action at the last RN gig four or so years back.  
It had been raining for a week, and the trials course was one nasty run.  
Only *one* vehicle made a complete circuit.

At one of the stickier holes, Mark had stationed the 101 with the 
mother-of-all snatch straps.  Must have been 60-70' or more of 3" webbing.  
They'd give one end for the bloke in the mud to hook onto something *solid* 
and then the 101 would take off.  By the time the strap went taut, they were 
in *third* gear and accelerating.  I was expecting to see airborn 
bumpers/front clips/halves of vehicles, but everyone came out intact.

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Old OD wanted 
Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 16:40:26 -0700
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@vislab.navy.mil>

In message <bulk.300.19960523162333@Land-Rover.Team.Net>you wrote:

> Before taking this on you might check the prices for od parts. RN carries
> them, and the prices are not cheap. Several parts are over $200 US. You might
> find the cost of the requild exceeding the cost of a new od.

	OD parts are very expensive.  Some of the bearings are $30 each and
you need 3 or 4 of them.  The mainshaft is about $200 and layshaft about
$100.  In mine all of the gears were ok.  I needed a mainshaft, layshaft
and a bunch of bearings.  The cost in parts was $680.  A brand new off the
shelf OD from British Pacific in Burbank is $680.  (I think RN's special
sale price is $725).  It is almost always cheeper to replace an OD then
to rebuild it.

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 96 18:05:00 CDT

I was driving to work the other day.  It was a little chilly with the top   
down so I decided to turn on the heater.  I moved the fan switch from off   
to 2 in one quick motion and as soon as the heater came on, I experienced   
a sudden loss of power and forward momentum.  It was abrupt enough for me   
to notice it and immediately turn the fan switch off.  I then tried it   
again and no power loss occurred.  Since I wasn't stranded by this, I   
decided to ignore it.  Does anyone have a suggestion as to what may have   
caused this and should I be concerned about it happening in the future?   
 (no smoke emitted, so I assume my electrical system is still operating   
correctly.)

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767  

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 96 18:14:00 CDT

I would like to make a formal apology to anyone that was offended by my   
not stopping to help a jeep broken down on the side of the road.  I have   
recognized the error in my ways and since then had opportunity to help a   
Jeep that had a cracked radiator.  I would appreciate it if the members   
of this list that continue to "flame" me, recognize my apology, and   
continue forward with addressing Land Rover concerns.  Bandwidth should   
not continue to be wasted on this issue.

Thank you,
Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767  

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com>
Subject: RE:
Date: Thu, 23 May 96 17:48:00 CDT

EAT ME!

I already regretted not helping the guy in the jeep and since then have   
helped someone else that was stranded when their jeep broke down.  I   
bought the items I currently have because I thought that I would need   
them while off-roading.  The lights and straprs are not fancy, they are   
functional.  Get a grip and learn to forgive other's mistakes!

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767

 ----------

Doug, Enjoy your fancy lights and tow straps....I reccomend you spring   
for
the winch because if your words are representative of your attitude, tow
straps won't help....You will need THE ASSISTANCE OF OTHERS to benefit   
from
tow strap use....

......I stopped to help.  The
first thing he said to me was "Nice J**p".  Since he cursed at me with   
that
evil four letter word, I put my D90 in gear and drove off........<

Rob M Concord, MA currently researching landrover related products for
potential purchase, This is the first time I've ever felt compelled to
distract others with my opinions..(for that I apologize)...I'm amazed by   
the
impact of one persons words, from now on whenever I see landrover I'll be
thinking, nice rig, I wonder if the owner is a real S.O.B that would pass   
by
the opportunity to lend a hand...

------------------------------

From: Deezilbob@aol.com
Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 21:18:37 -0400
Subject: clutch

I have a ser.2a diesel which suddenly developed a clutch problem. it still
operates fine but the pedal does not return all the way back up. it has
perhaps 30,000 mi. since a complete replacement of all components including
master cyl. and slave, flex hydraulic line, pressure plate, disc, metal
lines, return springs on both the pedal and the operating lever which rotates
between the slave cyl., and the clutch cross shaft. i did have an occasional
squeak as i depressed the pedal but the noise stopped some time ago. any
ideas?

------------------------------

From: SACME@aol.com
Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 21:29:58 -0400
Subject: Kinetic recovery ropes

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com>
Date: Tue, 21 May 96 13:08:00 CDT
On May 21 Doug Boehme said:
(truncated by Doug S.)
I arrived home from work yesterday...a kinetic recovery rope.

Doug:
Be very, very careful in using a kinetic recovery rope.  As a former merchant
marine officer, naval officer, and lifelong sailor, I can tell you from
personal experience that a stretchable (usually nylon) line under tension is,
if it breaks or comes loose, absolutely DEADLY!!  When using a "kinetic
line", treat it like a loaded gun - don't let it be aimed where it can do
harm - remember too, it's a double-barreled gun - with the barrels pointing
in opposite directions and very capable of reaching way past the points of
original attachment like a big bullwhip(s).      

The primary knot you MUST learn is the bowline.  It preserves about 95
percent of the strength of the line and, when properly made, can be untied
after being under tremendous strain.  Carefully consider what you are tieing
those bowlines around, too.

Please forgive my nagging - I just don't want to see you get hurt.

All the Best, 

Doug (I remember, and it was not a pretty sight) Scott
2 ea. 72 III SWB, and charter member of the BB

P.S.  I just got to Bill Adams comments on your snub of the Jeep owner, etc.,
and I agree with him.  An opportunity to gently and respectfully educate, and
even to make a new friend, was squashed - a lose-lose situation for sure.
 And yes, I have done my share of "dontopedology" too, also known as "foot in
mouth" or stupid knee jerk reactions.  We can all do better. 

  

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 19:36:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: Re: clutch

On Thu, 23 May 1996 Deezilbob@aol.com wrote:

> I have a ser.2a diesel which suddenly developed a clutch problem. it still
> operates fine but the pedal does not return all the way back up. it has
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> squeak as i depressed the pedal but the noise stopped some time ago. any
> ideas?

The first thought is a weak return spring.  Have you checked it out?

Rgds,

Walt          * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 
              * Walter C. Swain         | wcswain@dcn.davis.ca.us       *
              * Davis Community Network |                               *
              * Davis, California       | 1988 Range Rover- "Lady Jane" *
              * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 23:05:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Overdrives

Trevor's ever inquiring mind asks:
> It occured to me that we only need overdrive for use on the highway in two 
wheel drive. Has anyone ever come across an overdrive/rear prop shaft 
arrangement.?

I remember ads for and articles about such devices in the 70's and early 80's
when fuel prices were high. Don't know if any are still available. They were
simple two speed boxes which went between the trans and prop shaft.  A major
drawback for a LR, particullarly a 88 is that anything added behind the
trans/transfer case would shorten the rear prop shaft. I suspect the U-joints
would complain in short order. Also as I recall the prices were not cheap,
probably no less than a Superwinch OD.

David Cockey
Rochester, MI

David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 18:56:24 -0700
From: "John Y. Liu" <johnliu@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: What things to look out for??

At 07:28 PM 5/22/96 GMT, you wrote:
>Im considering to bye me a 1965 LR - all i know about him is that he has
>always been well looked after - The thing is the engine has NOT been turned
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>look out for, for example: 
>i)   Could the engine be *grown* stuck??

I don't know, really, but you can try turning it over with the hand crank.
If it turns over ok then I would not be too concerned.  I would definitely
turn it over with the hand crank before trying to actually start it, in case
something is "stuck" that could be damaged when (if) the engine fires.
E.g., a cracked head could have let a cylinder fill up with water.  Unlikely
but good to be sure.

>ii)  Isn=B4t likely that hoses and all rubber would be crumbled (whatever
>concept used!!!)

Yes, but it is not much trouble to replace hoses (3) and belts (1).

>iii) brakes

Again, they are not a big deal to adjust or overhaul so that shouldn't stop you.

>iv)  all the other things!!!

On one of the Rover web pages I think there is a FAQ for LR buyers, with the
things to check out.

>One thing more!! - HOW MUCH petrol should an original petrol engine in a car
>like this us??

I only know it in miles per gallon -- the truck should get around 15, 16 mpg
around town.  This varies quite a bit, of course,, depending on condition
and driver.  I got 19 mpg on the freeway once.

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 23:14:04 -0400
Subject: For Sale: Include Location

If you post something for sale please include at least a general location. It
gets frustrating discovering the parts/vehicle which sounds great is 2000
miles away.

David Cockey
Rochester, MI

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 May 1996 11:16:57 -0800
From: James Mercer <james@babbage.cs.murdoch.edu.au>
Subject: Overdrives again...

Hi All,

All this talk of overdrives has got me wondering...

I already have a winch on the PTO of my S2a 88. Is it still possible to add
an overdrive?  If I can't fit an overdrive, what are my other options? I
don't really wan't to change the ratios in the rear diff as I already have
to change down on big hills, and faster diffs will only make it worse.

Is there a later model LR gearbox with a 5 speed (and PTO).  I have seen the
Mark's adapters page, and I am aware that they make a 5 speed box that has
PTO on it, but that box won't go onto a LR 2.25 motor :(.

Would my best bet be to save many bucks and do a motor/transmission swap?
Or should I just settle for 16mpg and 85km/h?

Dreaming of power, economy and 100km/h  <= wishful thinking? :\

James.
O-------------------------------------------------------------O
|    James Mercer                                             |
|    Computer Science                james@cs.murdoch.edu.au  |
|    Murdoch University              Ph: 360 2790             |
|    WESTERN AUSTRALIA                                        |
O-------------------------------------------------------------O
 

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 23:49:55 -0400
Subject: Re: For Sale: Include Location

OK OK OK 
Roof Access Ladder located in Upstate NY USA
it is shippable via UPS 
Rgds
Steve
  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 May 1996 07:30:49 +0200
From: Frank Bokhorst <bokkie@uctvms.uct.ac.za>
Subject: Capstan Winch?

A capstan winch seems just the right piece of obsolete technology
to decorate the front of my 1957 Series I, but how obsolete is it?
I have found one to buy, but the owner (honest fellow that he is)
tells me it is not suitable for dragging yourself out of the mud.
It has a shear-pin that snaps too easily under such loads, and it
is a nightmare to replace the shear-pin.  Even with two spare pins,
how useful is this winch?  Any comments, or experiences to tell of?

Perhaps the answer is to avoid steel cable and use only stretchy 
rope?

Frank Bokhorst       personal e-mail: bokkie@psipsy.uct.ac.za
Psychology
University of Cape Town

------------------------------

From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Fri, 24 May 1996 02:34:50 -0400
Subject: Land-Rover owner goes on a 'road rage'

>From an AP story in the 5/23/96 Arizona Republic, there is an article
headlined “Rampant ‘road rage’ kills man in Britain.   

And I quote “And on Sunday, Stephen Cameron, 21 was fatally stabbed by the
driver of a Land-Rover south of London.”  

See what happens when you allow OJ in your country?

Gerry “Phoenix AZ” Elam

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 May 1996 08:43:04 +0200
From: bcotton@lia.co.za (Brian Cotton)
Subject: Kinetic Straps

Gentlemen, let's broaden our minds

Kinetic straps are wonderfull recovery devices especially where pulling
traction is low or the pulling vehicle is too light, BUT the mounting points
for the strap must ve VERY secure. DO NOT USE THE SILLY LITTLE SECURING EYE
IN THE FRONT OF THE D90, It pops off and becomes a bullet. You should fit a
sturdy chassis (frame) mounted tow point, or fit a "D" ring to your bumper
in line with the bolts holding the bumper on and use a thick steel plate
behind the bumper so that the bolts don't pull through.

The rear of the frame must also have a plate behind the mounting point. 
NOTE: Older vehicles which have fair frame rust must have thier frames
checked for the structural integrity. I heard a story where some idiot was
being pulled out of a sticky position at the coast and his whole bumper and
frame horns parted company. Imagine that little package flying in your
direction !!!!.

Brian "keep your nuts tight" Cotton
South Africa 

------------------------------

Subject: Re: 88 body onto 90 frame.
Date: Fri, 24 May 96 08:51:16 -0000
From: Marc Rengers <mr@grant.media-gn.nl>

>My question is, has anybody done this swap with
>an 88" to 90?  It seems like the extra 2" might
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>fit better as the wheel wells are no more 
>than vague suggestions?

I believe a 90 inch 

Marc Rengers
Groningen, Holland
mr@grant.media-gn.nl

   #=====#          #=========#         
   |___|__\___      |____|__|__\___    
   | _ |   |_ |}    |  _ \  |   |_ |}
   "(_)""""(_)"     "-(_)"""""""(_)" 
                                  
 1977  88" III HT    1987 110" StaWag 
    Petrol               Diesel  
   23-67-XB             RH-12-PF

also subscribed to LAND ROVER Owner
International (great magazine)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 May 1996 08:52:36 +0000
From: Craig Morgan <C.Morgan@soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: "Road Rage"

At 9:03 am -0700 23/5/96, you wrote:

>An article in this morning's Arizona Daily Star here in Tucson discusses the
>increasing number of violent confrontations between drivers on British
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>Land Rover. " On Sunday a 21 year old was fatally stabbed by the driver of a
>LAND ROVER on a highway south of London."

Yeah, but Series drivers can take heart, it's an L Reg. Disco driver that
they are hunting ...

--
Craig

                            ,,,   Wot, NO mountains!
 ======================oOO=(o o)=OOo===================================
  Craig Morgan              (_)      Senior Lecturer, CS Group
  School of Computing                Email: C.Morgan@soc.staffs.ac.uk
  Staffordshire University           Phone: +44 (0)1785 353466
  Beaconside                         Fax:   +44 (0)1785 353497
  Stafford, UK  ST18 0DG             Pager: +44 (0)839 453754

  "It's the downhill thrills, that make the uphill slog worthwhile..."
 ======================================================================

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: "Road Rage"
Date: Fri, 24 May 96 9:10:04 BST

> An article in this morning's Arizona Daily Star here in Tucson discusses the
> increasing number of violent confrontations between drivers on British
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> LAND ROVER on a highway south of London."
>   Well, there goes the image!!  Or here come a new image!! What a world.

Because its very recent - only this weekend. Its been on the news most days
since Sunday.  Although a LR, it was a Disco, so its not that bad (Discos
aren't proper Landies! :-) )

 
> Rob Modica	'51 SI 80"	'60 SII 109" Safari
> Tucson AZ	'94 Disco 5spd	"Casper"

Aaarrgghhh A Disco Owner! At the second coming, you should be saved by the
two Series Landies!   :-))

We do get some prats on the roads. But then, lastnight three people stopped to
help me  - two to push me off the roundabout, and another guy even gave me
a tow home!!
(full explanation to follow - still got engine trouble)

Richard

------------------------------

From: Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Fri, 24 May 1996 09:57:39 +0000
Subject: Kinetic Energy Straps

>Becuase of the nature of Kinetic Energy Straps, what is the "best"
>technique to use to recover another vehicle using such a strap?  Also

tension the thing up with a winch, then get in the car and drive 
out with tension assist.

Forget about snatch recoveries unleess you feel you would be more 
attractive to women with a few body parts less....

------------------------------

From: Andy Woodward <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Fri, 24 May 1996 09:57:39 +0000
Subject: New owner with questions

>1.  The transmission seems to be making a rattling noise when idling.
> It certainly seems related to the clutch, since when I depress the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>guesses to what is going on?  If anyone has more specific questions,
>I will be glad to answer.

My 90 hsa had all htese from new. Since it's 11 years old now, they 
dont bother me much anymore. Difficult to get into reverse and first? 
Snick it into some otherr gear first to gee up the synchro......

------------------------------

Date: 24 May 96 06:15:04 -0400
Subject: V8 and unleaded fuel
From: "Leon H. Akong" <akongj@tstt.net.tt>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi to all,

I am repeating this 'cause I was dropped from the list for some reason
after sendig it the first
time so I don't know if anyone replied.  Here goes!!

I have been 'lurking' around for a couple of months and have finaly
decided to 'de-lurk'.
I have a 1984  Canvas top  Stage 1 88.  I have noticed that this seems
to be uncommon in other
parts of the world, but around here, of the half dozen or so Stage 1s
are all 88s.  About three
of these are canvast top (including my mine), and most of the other
are air-conditioned.

Any way, I have a question which may have been answered before I
joined this list.  Can I use
un-leaded fuel with this Rover 3528  V8 engine??

Thanks

Jr 
akongj@tstt.net.tt
located in 
	http://www.city.net/countries/trinidad_and_tobago/

---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: More engine trouble...
Date: Fri, 24 May 96 11:48:38 BST

If you remember, I was having what I thought was valve problems.
Finally managed to get all of the spark plugs out (the military shielding
was giving trouble on one of them). The results:

At the weekend after the points were adjusted, No 4. was black. Nos 1-3
ashy. These were cleaned and put back in. For various reasons, Nos. 3
and 4 were swapped (not my doing).
Driving on 3 cyinders from Maidstone to Crawley (took about 2 hours avoiding
the motorway).
Lastnight, managed to finally get no. 2 out. This was black. Nos. 1 & 4 were
ashy, and 3 was black, but not oily or sooty (this was the one which was
black originally). Strange. If it was the valves, then they wouldn't move!
Similarly, a head gasket wouldn't do this, would it?
Suspicion lies on the "stuck" plug. Perhaps it was a crossed thread, and wasn't
in properly?? Put everything back, checked the tappets (didn't seem too bad),
and ran the engine. It worked, and seemed to be running properly.
Sprayed some of this Redex stuff into the carburettor, and then put a little
bit in the tank. Still running okay - lots of smoke!!
Thought I'd drive around the block. At first okay - power back to normal
- perhaps I really was running on 4 cylinders. Then it just dropped off, to
nothing. Serious trouble starting and staying going.
I did managed to get it going for a short while, and I heard a ticking
from the general direction of the distributor. Tried holding cables,etc
(incase I'd put everything back in such a way that something was vibrating
against something else, that wasn't before) - no change. Suspect arcing
in the distributor. It was dark by this time, so I left it.
Will look at the distributor tonight. Suspect it will not be nice??
If its the distributor, then a clean-up or replacement shouldn't be a problem.
Do the mil. vehicles use standard civvie distributors, bar the cap? The
cap has to hold the shielding on the ht wires, so this must be different.
Any other differences?
(UK owners: Any good mil. suppliers that are affordable? I have an old
Blanchard list, and a quick look through showed the mil. distributors to
be over twice the civvie ones)

If its not the distributor, any suggestions? I guess the spark plugs might
be at fault again?  They don't appear standard either. As mine are a bit
mucky, I guess these should be replaced too...

If it isn't the distributor, I may well get it towed (yes, its that bad
at the moment) to a local garage, see what they can do me for.

Richard

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 44 lines 1921 [forwarded 156 whitespace 463]
 Output: lines 1510 [content 875  forwarded 100 (cut  56) whitespace 441]

Land Rover Owner Subscription Information:

	* All new subscription requests are via the digest. *

In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked
Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved
(by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Useful commands for this are 'index lro-digest' which returns a list of
files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc.

World Wide Web Sites start at
	 http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/pages.html
(shadow) http://www.OpenMarket.com/personal/caloccia/lr/pages.html

If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have 
understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

  -B

Back	Forward
Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.