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Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 08:51:51 EDT
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Brake light switch

Hi all,

A friend's lightweight had a simple momentary push switch which was
mounted inside the footwell. When the pedal was depressed it released
pressure on the switch & the brake lights came on.

Make sure you get the right sort of switch though, it should go off when
you press the button!!

Not exactly an authentic factory fitted item, but unless orignality is
your thing it is discreet & functional.

Cheers, Steve

Steve Reddock, Xyratex       | Just as he thought he had
Ext.(01705) 486363 x5209     | clinched the interview he was
IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P)           | visited by the ghost of Usenet
Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com | Postings Past.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 13:32:34 GMT
From: Joey Jojo Junior Shabadoo <hmo@rvik.ismennt.is>
Subject: What things to look out for??

HI!! - Im considering to bye my first land rover - im wondering what things
to look out for when bying an old lr - can you tell if there is such a page
on the net that says it all!!!

                My first contribute to this list!!

                                                      Oli
------------------------------------------------------------------------
hmo@rvik.ismennt.is                   Iceland welcomes you!!!!

"If there is something more important than my ego!! - i want it hunt down
 and shot - NOW!!!"           
                                 Zaphod Beeblebrox

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com>
Date: Tue, 21 May 96 09:21:00 CDT

I passed a J**p on the way to work this morning.  Not much different from 
any other day, except this J**p had been modified with a new suspension, 
warn winch, shiny wheels and all of the stickers that came with those 
products plastered to the rear of his vehicle.  Well, seeing as how he may 
actually use the J**p for it's intended purpose, I stopped to help.  The 
first thing he said to me was "Nice J**p".  Since he cursed at me with that 
evil four letter word, I put my D90 in gear and drove off.  Does this make 
me a bad person for being offended by four letter words?

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: What things to look out for??
Date: Tue, 21 May 96 14:52:43 BST

> HI!! - Im considering to bye my first land rover - im wondering what things
> to look out for when bying an old lr - can you tell if there is such a page
> on the net that says it all!!!

Welcome!

There are a number of pages on the 'Net.
Try starting with:    http://www.du.edu/~tomills/landrover.html

Or do a search on "Land Rover".

Get one with a good solid frame. Its the most expensive and troublesome
thing to go wrong. *But* if you decide to replace it, its a good time
to do a complete bottom-up restoration!

Apparently foot wells, door pillars and the bulkhead often rust
quickly, but I haven't had too much trouble yet (touch wood^H^H^H^Haluminum).

I have an ex-mil. SIII, "Fitted for Radio". Good imposing vehicle with
quite a bit of history. Also the previous owner may have dropped it out
of planes, but it has been maintained. Only problem is that some parts
are special (eg. fuel tanks with under-seat fillers), and the cabling
has lots of radio noise-suppression shielding. Not much of problem, just
one more thing to remove when you have problems (ie. where I'm at at the
moment).

Richard

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 06:57:03 -0700
Subject: Internet Rover Withdrawl

The following message is a re-post, it seems it was lost somewhere when the 
lists went down for a few days.  My apologies to anyone who already recieved it:

Hello all!  It seems that the lists have slowed down quite a bit these days.  
Probably everyone coming out of hibernation with the weather slowly improving in 
the northern hemisphere.  

If you happen to be suffering from Internet Rover withdrawl, I have a small 
solution.  I am pleased to announce that I'm now in the Land Rover business.  I 
won't waste mailer bandwidth by selling myself, I'll just say that our URL is as 
follows:  http://www.OverlandMotors.com  If you don't have graphical web access, 
send me some e-mail and I'll tell you all about it.

I announce this at the great risk of being flamed.  I would only like to say 
that the only commericial use I'm putting this list to (beyond this beginning 
post) is to add a short sig file to my mail....I hope not to annoy anyone 
further.  If you would like to recieve commercial plugs via e-mail, let me know 
and I'll put you on our list.

Regards,
Eric Zipkin

_______________________________________________________________________
OVERLAND MOTORS...."EXPEDITION SPECIALISTS"	    1075 Washington St.
Land Rover - Range Rover - Discovery - Defender	    Peekskill, NY 10566 USA
http://www.OverlandMotors.com  Fax: (914) 734-4352  Phone: (914) 734-4333
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com>
Date: Tue, 21 May 96 09:54:00 CDT

With all of the talk of a new baby in the Rover clan, I have a few 
questions. (probably stupid ones, so I'll number them...)

#1:  Can you safely use a baby seat in a D90?

#2:  If so, which seat is safe for such a purpose, front or back?

My wife and I have been discussing children, and I would hate to have to 
sell my D90 and buy a Discovery or Range Rover.  Now, don't get pissed, I 
LOVE all Land Rovers, but I don't know if I could ever be without my D90. 
 If the D90 can't hold child safety seats, my wife will have to buy a Range 
Rover or Discovery, and considering the fact that she keeps looking at the 
new Mercedes convertible due later this year, it might be hard to convince 
her.  Don't worry though, my kids will learn to love Land Rovers as much as 
I.

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767

P.S. To the gentleman that just had a baby:  how about Lucas for a name... 
 Hopefully it won't lead to smoking tendancies on his part.

------------------------------

From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 08:49:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Mechanical Brake Light Switch

Hi all,

Here's what I made for a switch. I went to a big electrical/electronics parts
store and bought a 15A SPDT long lever mini-switch (looks like a lever micro
switch only bigger). These you can wire normally open or normally closed, and
for this project I needed NC. I then took a piece of 1.5" x 1/16" aluminum 
bar, and cut a 4" length. This I bent into a C shape with two 90 degree
bends, 1.5" on top, 1" in the middle, 1.5" on the bottom.

I mounted the switch on the bottom with the lever on the opening side of the
C-bracket.

As you face the brake pedal, the bracket attaches to the middle tower bolt
on the right hand side, with the opening facing away from you. The lever
of the switch should extend out over the pedal, and, in my case, when the
pedal is fully returned it should just hit the lever enough to actuate the
switch. I put a new spring on my pedal to insure a full return. You can also
bend the switch lever or add a small block to the pedal to insure a good
contact.

I ran new wire back over to the harness near the old hydraulic switch, so if
someone were to look there for the connection, they'd find the new leads.

Thats it. I think it falls into the Rover philosophy pretty well - its simple,
cheap, easy to adjust/maintain. The switch was only $7, and with the other
bits the total was maybe $10.

Worked dandy.

TIm
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 11:20:40 -0400
From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: 

>Douglas Boehme writes:

>P.S. To the gentleman that just had a baby:  how about Lucas for a name...
> Hopefully it won't lead to smoking tendancies on his part.

Probably not, Lucas stuff tends to lose it's smoke at an early opportunity...

RoverOn!

JAB
'67 Series IIa w/ Delco Alternator and two auxillary fuse panels

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg        Purple Shark Media              Rowayton, CT
                       jeff@purpleshark.com
                        ==================
                              Ia oro te natura
                      E mea arofa teie ao nei
                Ua oau te maitai no te fenua
               Te vai noa ra te ora o te mitie
                                  --Jimmy Buffett, One Particular Harbour

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 16:40:52 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re:

>>P.S. To the gentleman that just had a baby:  ...
The mind boggles.........

Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com>
Subject: RE: Re:
Date: Tue, 21 May 96 11:56:00 CDT

Well, his wife had the baby, not him.
(Sorry for the slip, even if he was part of the overall effort.)

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767
 ----------
From: LRO-Owner
Subject: Re:
Date: Tuesday, May 21, 1996 4:40PM

>>P.S. To the gentleman that just had a baby:  ...
The mind boggles.........

Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: "John J. Tackley" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 12:18:46 -500
Subject: Prince of Darkness

Just pulled this off of the Mercedes Benz Digest and thought the LRO
Digest would get a kick out of reading, or reading again......... 

Tim, pay attention

                      Electrical Theory by Joseph Lucas

                     by Bob Gunforth in the MBCA StarDust

Positive ground depends upon proper circuit functioning, the
transmission of negative ions by retention of the visible spectral
manifestation known as "smoke". Smoke is the thing that makes
electrical circuits work; we know this to be true because every time
one lets the smoke out of the electrical system, it stops working.
This can be verified repeatedly through empirical testing. When, for
example, the smoke escapes from an electrical component (i.e., say, a
Lucas voltage regulator), it will be observed that the component stops
working.  The function of the wire harness is to carry the smoke from
one device to another; when the wire harness "springs a leak", and
lets all the smoke out of the system, nothing works afterwards.
Starter motors were frowned upon in British Automobiles for some time,
largely because they consume large quantities of smoke, requiring very
large wires.

It has been noted that Lucas components are possibly more prone to
electrical leakage than Bosch or generic Japanese electrics.  Experts
point out that this is because Lucas is British and all things British
leak.  British engines leak oil, shock absorbers and hydraulic forks
and disk brakes leak fluid, British tyres leak air and the British
defense establishment leaks secrets...so, naturally, British electrics
leak smoke.

>From the basic concept of electrical transmission of energy in the
form of smoke, a better understanding of the mysteries of electrical
components, especially those of Lucas manufacture, is gained by the
casual user.
John J. Tackley, Richmond, VA"
'89 FLHS-"OINK" (That'l do, pig)

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com>
Date: Tue, 21 May 96 13:08:00 CDT

I arrived home from work yesterday to be greeted by a package from Rovers 
North.  With glee, I opened my package.  Lo and behold, my new Jack-all with 
winching accessories, new Hella Vision Plus headlights, and a kinetic 
recovery rope.  Someday, I'll afford a Warn or Superwinch, but for now, I'm 
ready to go.   I just had to share my joy with everyone else!

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767

------------------------------

From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 12:07:13 -0500
Subject: Kinetic Recovery Ropes

> Douglas buys a new rope...

I've heard mixed things about this type of recovery rope. Let me first say
I've never used one, so I have no experience. I have read that they work 
really well, with a lot less stress on both vehicles invloved.

But woe to anything in the plane of the rope should it let go under tension.
That includes your windshield/rear window and the heads of the drivers...

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com>
Date: Tue, 21 May 96 14:18:00 CDT

Of course, now that I've got a kinetic recovery rope, I guess I had better 
learn how to tie knots. (unfortunately, the traditional "shoe lace" knot 
won't work)  Perhaps I should have joined the Boy Scouts...

Douglas "knot-less" Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 15:16:36 -0400
From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: "Kinetic Recovery rope"

>Of course, now that I've got a kinetic recovery rope, I guess I had better
>learn how to tie knots. (unfortunately, the traditional "shoe lace" knot
>won't work)  Perhaps I should have joined the Boy Scouts...

If I were you I'd learn how to splice an eye into each end of the rope
(assuming it doesn't have one already) and use sturdy rated hooks or
shackles.

A knot makes it all that more likely that the "kinetic" part of the deal
ends up hurling the rope part through the windshield -- and anything else
in the ropes path.

RoverOn! -- but safely please.

JAB

==                                                                 ==
 Jeffrey A. Berg         Purple Shark Media             Rowayton, CT
                        jeff@purpleshark.com
                                *****
Look what happens when you love someone, and they don't love you.
                                       --Warren Zevon, The Heartache
==                                                                 ==

------------------------------

Date: 21 May 1996 15:42:26 -0400
From: "Sean McInerney" <smcinerney@mail.nrgn.com>
Subject: Re: SERIES 1 SQUEAL

 RE>SERIES 1 SQUEAL
Gareth Seymore wrote:
>My 86" series 1 has developed a reasonably high pitched,
>continuos "squeal" on overrun/engine braking. It had a new clutch
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>much quieter and there does not seem to be anything making
>excessive noises.

  I just recently experienced a similar problem (as well as a few other minor
Rover ailments) with my 1963 SIIa 88".  With the throttle closed at high RPMs
(e.g. exiting the highway) the Rover emitted a high-pitched whistle.  This
always dissipated before I could hop out and pop the bonnet after stopping
rapidly to catch the culprit in the act at the side of the road.  The
solution:  Properly retorque the intake manifold nuts and bolts as well as
the nuts securing the carburator to the manifold.  I could turn the nuts on
my manifold by hand which wasn't good (some say you'll go blind).  I imagine
that if the gaskets are not shot, this will do the trick.  All this is to say
that you have a vacuum leak somewhere in the intake...I suppose it could be
in the vacuum pipe connections to the distributor advance...86s have those,
right?  Good luck!  Sorry if this comes late...I am just getting back into
reading LROd after its return.

Sean C. McInerney
1963 SIIa 88" Basic Hardtop
New Haven, CT USA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 15:49:33 -0400
From: "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: Need covers for Jackbox/toolbox

I would appreciate hearing from anyone with a couple of derelict IIa's who
could sell me the following
bits for a IIa:

-- Need 2 toolbox covers (under the middle seat) with hasps and related
hardware

-- Also need 2 jack box covers for under the hood.

Please let me know if you have any of these and prices... They are to
complete a couple of restorations.

Thanks, 

R. Pierce Reid

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 22:14:23 +0100 (BST)
From: "Matthew J. Clement" <mjc1@st-andrews.ac.uk>
Subject: MUST SELL: 110 County SW

*** VERY SORRY FOR THE CROSSPOSTING, BUT I MUST *** 
***   SELL THIS VEHICLE IN THE NEXT FIVE DAYS   ***

Unfortunately, the gentleman who was initially going to purchase this 
vehicle wasn't able to come up with the money.  That left me between a 
rock and a hard place (not too bad in a Land Rover, but awful 
financially!) and I have to sell this vehicle before I move down south.  
Here are the details:

  110 County Station Wagon
  Model Year 1984
  3.5 litre V8 Petrol
  85,000 Miles
  Blue Exterior, Brown Cloth Interior

  The vehicle is in very good condition throughout -- chassis is 
rust-free, as is the body.  Interior is clean, everything on the vehicle 
works as it should.  

  Tax/MOT run out at the end of the month.  I ran it through its MOT, and 
the only thing its needing is a new rear silencer (I have a copy of the 
report).  I will either take this into account when negotiating a price, 
or I will sell it with 12-months of MOT as a condition of sale with a 
deposit.  We can negotiate tax.  

  If you want an independent opinion of the vehicle, I can give you the 
names of other list members who have seen/inspected the vehicle. 

I'm flexible as to what I'll take in price.  I have seen these advertised
privately in the back of LR Magazines for #4500-5000.  Offer me 60% of
that and chances are I'll take it.  The first realistic offer secures the
vehicle.  (NB: The #1500 that a used-car dealer offered me site-unseen was
NOT reasonable)

  Please call me ASAP on 01334 472669 (tell whoever answers its concerning 
the Land Rover) or e-mail me at this address.  Thanks very much, sorry 
about all of the wasted bandwidth.

-- Matt

--------
MATTHEW J. CLEMENT
Address: 22 Abbey Street, St. Andrews, Fife KY16 9LA, SCOTLAND
Tel: +44.1334.472669      E-mail: mjc1@st-andrews.ac.uk

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 13:36:59 -0800
From: "Deanna D. Sitter" <lani@alaska.net>
Subject: more nuts and bolts

Dixon Kenner asked me to expand on the aplication of the info on nuts and bolts I previosly provided.

While AN hardware is not available in Whitworth thread form, there is not to much Whitworth threads on Rovers. 
 Most all of the tapped holes in the tranny and t-case are tapped SAE.  The studs in these holes are course SAE 
on the casting side and fine SAE on the nut side.  While the nut may require a Whitworth sized tool, it can be 
replaced by an SAE nut.  Remember that Whitworth bolt diameters are the same as SAE.  Because of this you can 
replace any bolt and nut combination( say the swivel ball to housing or propshaft nuts and bolts)with SAE sized 
fasteners.  This is where knowing the grades of Whitworth hardware comes in handy, so you can replace the 
whitworth with an equally or greater strength SAE sized bolt.  The advantages to this are many.  For instance: 
 I replaced the nuts that hold the propshaft flange to the drive flange at the parking brake drum with 3/8 fine 
thread AN nuts.  The 3/8 nut requires a 9/16 inch wrench.  This is fractionally smaller than the equivelent 
Whitworth wrench.  Because of this it is easier to work in this confined area and I have a greater selection of 
wrench styles to get the job done. Just be sure to double check before putting an SAE bolt into a hole as 
some(I don't know them all) are indead Whitworth thread.  The ring gear,drive flange, and front spindle bolts 
are some that I can think of that are Whitworth thread.  The plated AN hardware is great to work with because 
its cad. plating makes them easy to dissasemble(Lord knows we all spend a lot of time doing that).  As for the 
body I use the AN stuff for the corrosion resistence as it is much kinder to the aluminum.  Stay away from 
stainless steel as it is every bit as bad for dissimilar metal corrosion as mild steel when in contact with 
aluminum, at least that's what aircraft mech.'s tell me.  The original Rover hardware is coated with something 
that works realy good also, but for me it's easier and cheaper to stop at the local airplane parts supplier 
than order Rover stuff.  The absolute best book to get on this stuff is "Carroll Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners 
and Plumbing Handbook"  published by Motorbooks International.  Smith is very easy to read and understand.  
This book also has tons of info on riveting and types of rivets.  It is race car oriented but very useful to 
anyone doing the sort of stuff we do.

There was some concern expressed as to how the drive train would hold up to 5.0 v-8 power.  I have been running 
a McNamara mechanically locking rear diff. for a couple of years now.  This uses the salisbury sized axles and 
is a four spider gear design.  I got it direct from McNamara in Aust. and it cost about $650 including all 
shipping and customs.  This included the diff., two axles, the drive flanges, and carrier bearings.  They were 
great people to deal with and I love the diff.  I'm going to switch to 11 inch brakes and install K&M 3.8 
gears(probably in about two weeks).  This should hold up pretty well.  The engine will be mated to a 
Borg-Warner T-18 4speed from a Ford truck.  This will be mated to the Rover T-case with an adapter built by a 
friend named Timm Coopper who is curently working for Doug Shipman in Portland OR,any one else who would like 
one of these should contact him as I think he would like to make a small run of them. I don't have the number 
at my finger tips but will find it if anyone is interested.  It will probably get a salisbury someday.  The 
salisbury is in fact related to the Dana 60/70 line of axles.  Dana 60 ring and pinion gears can be installed 
in the sal., as can Dana 60 carriers.  there are some pinion bearing differences but easily overcome with the 
right bearing.  When putting sal. 4.7 gears in a Dana 60 housing minor machining is needed to overcome the 
pinion difference.  Covers and carrier caps are interchangable between the sal. and 60.

Tim Sitter

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 17:59:46
From: IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILLIAM ADAMS)
Subject: Doug's Stiffing the competition

I am probably going to get blasted for this, but I am a little disturbed by 
the posting from Mr. Boehme regarding his treatment of the poor chap in the 
Jeep.
If I am reading it correctly, he stopped to give assistance to another 
motorist, but turned around and left the guy standing there when he attempted 
to offer what he obviously thought was a compliment about his vehicle. I 
would hate to think what that Jeep owner thinks of Rover owners now. 
He then followed this post with another ruminating about the pros and cons of 
Disco vs. Range Rover vs. Mercedes Benz and which one fits kids the best. 
Then we hear about his goodie box from RN. 
I think Mr. Boehme needs to come down out of the clouds and think about how 
this looks to the rest of us who lack his kind of troubles. It was once 
politely called putting on airs and it only tends to further the stereotype 
of the snobby dandy as Rover owner. 

Bill Adams
3Dmentia computer animation
4016 Spruell Drive
Kensington, MD 20895
301-949-9475

'66 Land Rover S2A 109" Station Wagon Diesel  ...all there

------------------------------

From: houniet@mail.xs4all.nl
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 01:47:16 +0000
Subject: Re: Moaning sound

Ahh, yes I do have an oil cooler, and thanks for setting my mind at 
rest, but I wouldn't be a true L-R owner if I didn't want to know 
why!!??. 

Floris 'keepin it short' Houniet.

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 19:58:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Clutch problem.

Michel,
 Do you have power brakes on your LR? Then, instead of removing the wing, and
all that that entails, let me suggest that you only remove the pedal stands.
Heres how. 
1 Remove the Bonnet.
2 Undo the Brake Master Cylinder from the servo booster. Don't undo the
hydraulic lines, though.
3 Swing the Brake Master Cylinder up and rest it on the lower edge of the
windshield. Make sure the lines bend gracefully and don't kink. There should
be enough slack adn malleability to do this sans damage.
4 Undo the brake pedal tower from inside the cab of the LR. Raise it out til
it catches on the pedal in the square hole, twist in an appropriate direction
and continue.
5 Undo the clutch pedal tower in the same way, but, since the clutch master
cylinder is still connected, lift it only enough to undo the hydraulic
connection. Once that is done, do the lift and twist routine til it's clear
of the truck, too.
Now you can deal with the problem on a bench with plenty of light, and a flat
surface, so your favorite beverage wont spill.:-) I always clean out the
space under the cylinders while they're out, and reinstall the towers with
latex caulk or strip caulk (preferred, get it at Body Shop Supply houses) so
they don't leak. 
   The usual caveats apply. If the brake lines can't stand up to a few
minutes being moved ninety degrees, then the whole brake system probably
needs looking after, anyway. 
   I hope you get your clutch problems sorted out soon. Cheers!!
John Dillingham, Woodstock, GA 
73 s3 SWB
72 s3 SWB rusted parts truck, mostly picked over
66 s2a SWB soft top "Red Rover" being minded for friend/customer 
Vintage Rover Service
"Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!"

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 20:54:55 -0400
Subject: Insecurity

D. Boehme writes:

>The 
>first thing he said to me was "Nice J**p".  Since he cursed at me with that 
>evil four letter word, I put my D90 in gear and drove off.

A psychologist would have a ball explaining the LR owners who have to
continually put others down. I believe it is called ins********!

This J**p is a four letter word bit is amusing in an adolescent way exactly
once. Instead of running down others let's stick to LR's.

David Cockey 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 22:24:55 PST
Subject: Re: 1963 Series IIA for sale
From: rhodesia@juno.com (Chris R. Whitehead)

Just posting this for an acquaintance:

1963 Series IIA 88" for sale-completely restored-frame up, 2.25l gas
(petrol)
engine completely reconditioned. rear fold up seats, carpeted throughout,
AM/FM Stereo. Interior fully trimmed-original speckled grey color vinyl
(trim
is hand done and is made with a plastic base, not the usual cardboard or
pressed board stuff). Safari top with safari door, spare on rear door and
on
deluxe hood. asking $12,000 OBO.  E-mail me or call Marty Davis at (602)
437-9491
 (ps. this person is also busy restoring a Land Rover ambulance if anyone
is
interested)

Cheers

Chris 1966 Series IIA 88"

------------------------------

From: iharper@afm.org
Subject: Starters
Date: Wed, 22 May 96 01:58:55 EST

I'm having this problem again with my starter (SIII '74 2.25).  A couple 
of times this week I have gone out to start it and heqard the ominous 
click from the Solenoid, but nothing else.  The battery is OK, and there 
is current getting to the starter.  The only way to make it start is to 
get the hand crank out, give it a turn, and then the starter will engage. 
(I don't have to actually start it with the crank, just turn the 
engine....then I hop back in the cab and turn on the ignition)

Has anyone had this problem?  Is it an indication that the starter is 
about to fail, and if so should I do anything about it, or leave it until 
it packs it in altogether?

Is there a point in the starter cycle that I am getting caught in, such as 
the pinion not returning in to the starter, but would that not allow the 
starter to turn?

Any ideas would be helpful, and if there's a quick fix that involves NOT 
taking the whole thing off, I would welcome it....

Thanks, Ian
iharper@afm.org

---
 This copy of Freddie 1.2.5 is being evaluated.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 09:51:53 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Insecurity

>A psychologist would have a ball explaining the LR owners who have to
>continually put others down. I believe it is called ins********!
No doubt a psychologist would..and no doubt have a bigger ball making
out his bill to anyone daft enough to ask the question.

>This J**p is a four letter word bit is amusing in an adolescent way exactly
>once. Instead of running down others let's stick to LR's.
>David Cockey

Well,how many letters do *you* make it then?

Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 12:21:55 +0200
From: Christophe Girardey <girardey@montrouge.ts.slb.com>
Subject: URGENT : Tires problem.

Hello everybody,

I recently put 4 new 'BFGoodrich Radial Long Trail T/A' tires 
(205/80R16) on my Disco for better performances on the road. I 
Would be happy but I have some problems that make me feel bad.
The first day I put them on my disco, I felt some vibrations on 
the steering wheel, specially at 100 kph speed. I immediatly 
asked the garage owner to check wheel's balance but he did'nt 
see anything special. Today the problem persist and I've got a 
new RDV this Saturday morning with the garage owner to check 
again my tires.

Before, I had Michelin XM+S 244 tires(205/80R16), old (i.e. worn 
) but very efficient and no vibration problems. Now, I have new 
BFG Tires, efficient but with vibration problems. 

My simple question is :

Is there any quality difference between the two ?

Is anybody have information or comment about quality of BFG 
Tires manufacture compared with Michelin ?

Is there any incompatibility between BFG Tires and french road's  
surfaces ?
--
Christophe GIRARDEY ( Le Mée - France )
'92 Discovery with 200 TDi engine
Software Developper (Free-lance)
Internet   : girardey@montrouge.ts.slb.com
Compuserve : 100600.2265@compuserve.com

------------------------------

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