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msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | "Ron Franklin" [oldhaven | 32 | Re: Re. Tyres |
2 | chrisste@clark.net (Chri | 22 | Re: Valves? (oh, and what is this engine thing?) |
3 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 19 | Re: Valves? (oh, and what is this engine thing?) |
4 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 18 | Re: Valves? (oh, and what is this engine thing?) |
5 | "LRO Shop (North America | 10 | Books |
6 | "T.Stevenson" [gbfv08@ud | 19 | Re: Moaning sound |
7 | "T.Stevenson" [gbfv08@ud | 22 | Re: Valves? (oh, and what is this engine thing?) |
8 | harincar@internet.mdms.c | 36 | Mechanical Brake Light Switch |
9 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 18 | Re: Valves? (oh, and what is this engine thing?) |
10 | "Jakob Christensen" [vel | 23 | RE: Where is the frame number on SIII 109? |
11 | Nathan Dunsmore [dunsmo1 | 33 | Re: Mechanical Brake Light Switch |
12 | M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M | 13 | Re: Mechanical Brake Light Switch |
13 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 22 | Re: Valves? (oh, and what is this engine thing?) |
14 | harincar@internet.mdms.c | 23 | Re: Mechanical Brake Light Switch |
15 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 17 | Re[2]: Mechanical Brake Light Switch |
16 | M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M | 14 | Re[2]: Mechanical Brake Light Switch |
17 | "Gary Stamp (MS Mail)" [ | 12 | rad type |
18 | Gregspitz@aol.com | 8 | Re: Moaning sound |
19 | "Boehme, Doug" [dboehme@ | 32 | RE: Baby is Here! |
20 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 10 | moaning sounds... |
21 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 17 | Re[3]: Mechanical Brake Light Switch |
22 | harincar@internet.mdms.c | 28 | Re: Re[2]: Mechanical Brake Light Switch |
23 | threedee [threedee@iol.i | 27 | Ralphs' Weird Power Problems. |
24 | jjbpears@ix.netcom.com ( | 17 | Re: Mechanical Brake Light Switch |
25 | "David C. Mackie" [aeub0 | 26 | Should I Pass This One Up? |
26 | Russell U Wilson [ruwst+ | 11 | Re: Should I Pass This One Up? |
27 | "William L. Leacock" [75 | 11 | Noises |
28 | IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILL | 78 | British Bike Day and Moaning,+ other stuff |
29 | "Deanna D. Sitter" [lani | 53 | nuts and bolts |
30 | "S. Vels" [svels@dk-onli | 104 | Re: Valves? (oh, and what is this engine thing?) |
31 | landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mi | 16 | Re: No Subject |
32 | rotero@ing.puc.cl (Rodri | 20 | Hi I just got here |
33 | ASFCO@aol.com | 27 | Re: No Subject |
34 | Wdcockey@aol.com | 37 | Re: Mechanical Brake Light Switch (LR PART NUMBERS) |
35 | Wdcockey@aol.com | 20 | Re: Clutch problem (WEAR POINT) |
36 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 15 | Moaning sound |
37 | Jim Pappas [roverhed@m3. | 43 | RE: Moaning sound. |
38 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 47 | Re: LROI price for USA |
39 | "Paul O'Donnell" [paulod | 17 | Re: Temperature Gauge on Disco |
40 | twakeman@scruznet.com (T | 29 | Re: Should I Pass This One Up? |
41 | dholt@intergate.bc.ca (d | 17 | Re: Should I Pass This One Up? |
42 | dholt@intergate.bc.ca (d | 17 | Re: Should I Pass This One Up? |
43 | M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M | 33 | Re: Re[2]: Mechanical Brake Light Switch |
44 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 34 | Re: Valves? (oh, and what is this engine thing?) |
45 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 19 | Re: Engine woes |
From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@biddeford.com> Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 08:16:18 -0500 Subject: Re: Re. Tyres On 19 May 96 at 16:48, Andy Purser wrote: In reference to the request for information on 16" tires here is a brand I haven't heard anyone mention. While searching for BF Goodrich Mud Terrian tires, I located BRIDGESTONE MUD DUELERS in P235/75 at about $100.00 cheaper! I bought a set and found them to be very aggressive off-road and very QUIET on road. I really don't know who they will compare with the BF Goodrich in the longrun ( I've always preferred the latter) but I am very happy with the price vs. service thus far. Just food for thought! > A. Purser I've been very pleased with the off-road performance of the Cooper Discoverer Radial CTD's in 7.50R16 that I have on my 88. They have a fairly aggressive tread and moderate sidewall paddles, in load range D. I don't find them noisy on the road but at 55 mph in Erik the Viking (named after the previous owner: Erik Viik), the tires are the quietest of the orchestra members. By the way, congratulations to Teriann, imagine BFG naming a tire after you. Too bad they got the spelling wrong. enjoying the Morning, hope you are too, Ron Franklin Bowdoin, Maine, USA ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 08:38:58 -0400 (EDT) From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Subject: Re: Valves? (oh, and what is this engine thing?) >I'll explain the symptoms: >Uneven running gradually increasing over a period of weeks to jumpy running. >Lack of power. Could be a head gasket. My SIIa did the same thing with it blew the gasket. >Hints, tips, words of advice? What tools am I going to need? >Feeler gauges, valve compressor, guess a pressure gauge for good luck. Not that difficult. Really. I did it with the help of the folks on this list. Best advice: take the head with the new springs, seals, valves to a machine shop (get the seats from them). Cost? For $100 US they cleaned the head; and installed the new parts. All I had to do was slap in a new head gasket and torque the thing down. Chris Stevens Towson, MD ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Valves? (oh, and what is this engine thing?) Date: Mon, 20 May 96 14:18:02 BST > >Hints, tips, words of advice? What tools am I going to need? > >Feeler gauges, valve compressor, guess a pressure gauge for good luck. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] > Cheers > Mike Rooth Apparantly the spark plugs were giving a reasonable spark. Two were checked out of the engine (including no. 4), but I didn't see them (I was behind the wheel). Richard ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Valves? (oh, and what is this engine thing?) Date: Mon, 20 May 96 14:23:18 BST > >I'll explain the symptoms: > >Uneven running gradually increasing over a period of weeks to jumpy running. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)] > machine shop (get the seats from them). Cost? For $100 US they cleaned the > head; and installed the new parts. All I had to do was slap in a new head > gasket and torque the thing down. Would this lead to only three cylinders firing? (As I said, I know very little about these things!!) Richard ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 09:59:09 -0400 From: "LRO Shop (North America)" <lroshop@idirect.com> Subject: Books For workshops manuals etc. please contact us by E-Mail at lroshop@idirect.com We can almost certainly help you. ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 15:14:37 +0100 (BST) From: "T.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk> Subject: Re: Moaning sound >I don't have servo assisted brakes, so it can't be that, i suppose it >could have something to do with the waterpump, but why would it moan >when having come to a standstill. Do you have an oil cooler fitted? These make a peculiar moaning sound at times, although it doesn't interfere with their operation. Tom ----------------------------------------------------------------- Thomas D.I. Stevenson gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk SNL Mussel Fouling Project University Marine Biological Station, Tel 01475 530581 Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland. Fax 01475 530601 ----------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 15:23:22 +0100 (BST) From: "T.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk> Subject: Re: Valves? (oh, and what is this engine thing?) >Uneven running gradually increasing over a period of weeks to jumpy running. >Lack of power. (Trouble getting past 30 mph - got stopped by the police >on Saturday on the M25 for going too slow!) Try looking at the air intake hose. Sometimes the lining becomes detached and closes off the air supply to the carb as revs rise and the suction increases; this also leads to carbon fouled plugs since the mixture is then too rich for the meagre amount of air being drawn in. Once relieved of vacuum, the hose lining springs back to its original shape. Tom ----------------------------------------------------------------- Thomas D.I. Stevenson gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk SNL Mussel Fouling Project University Marine Biological Station, Tel 01475 530581 Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland. Fax 01475 530601 ----------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: harincar@internet.mdms.com Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 09:10:37 -0500 Subject: Mechanical Brake Light Switch Well, the fallout from my Smoke Letting continues... Seems I did somehting to the brake light switch. When I turn the key on, I get dim brake lights. I've traced the problem right to the switch itself, so I must have fused it together or something allowing a contact. If I bypass the switch, and do a direct connection to the lights I get full, bright, solid lights (as I would expect). Anyone ever build a mechanical brake light switch, something that might attach to the pedal? While a new switch is only $16.50, the Pain and Suffering that would go with replacing it (pulling the wing, disconnecting the 5-way, changing the switch, reconnecting the lines, doing *another* bleed...) make me really want to kludge something for the time being. On a related note, the fuel guage doesn't work. The needle in the dash bounces when I turn the key on, so I think the meter is working, but the sender must be screwed. I don't know if it ever worked since I reinstalled the tank, etc., though. I only had 1.5 gallons of gas in it, hardly enough to get above E anyway.. ... I received a nice pair of genuine mud flaps and a center seat belt kit for my birthday. That's pretty great. More rover projects.... :-p Tim --- tim harincar harincar@mooregs.com '66 IIa 88 SW 'algernon' ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Valves? (oh, and what is this engine thing?) Date: Mon, 20 May 96 15:47:45 BST > >Uneven running gradually increasing over a period of weeks to jumpy running. > >Lack of power. (Trouble getting past 30 mph - got stopped by the police [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] > too rich for the meagre amount of air being drawn in. Once relieved of > vacuum, the hose lining springs back to its original shape. I'll check this out, as its very easy to do (reminds me, someone found a *small* hole which I should tape up). But, wouldn't that affect all of the plugs? No. 4 plug is pretty consistent - it was checked twice (my little escapade in the ditch was between the two checks). Richard ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 16:59:14 -0600 (CST) From: "Jakob Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk> Subject: RE: Where is the frame number on SIII 109? In message Mon, 20 May 1996 12:09:26 +0200 (METDST), Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de writes: > His major problem > is to find the frame number. I know it must be somewhere on the [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > Can anyone be so kind and tell me the exact location, so we > don't have to sand down the whole frame. It should be located on the inside of the right front suspension, about 10 to 15 centimeters from the front. If the suspension was replaced it should be restamped at the same place. cheers. ----------------------------------- Stine Henriksen / Jakob Christensen Borrowed account - 73 sIII 88" ----------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 11:08:32 -0400 From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net> Subject: Re: Mechanical Brake Light Switch harincar@internet.mdms.com wrote: > Anyone ever build a mechanical brake light switch, something that might attach > to the pedal? While a new switch is only $16.50, the Pain and Suffering that [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] > changing the switch, reconnecting the lines, doing *another* bleed...) make > me really want to kludge something for the time being. I don't think you need to pull the wing etc. I believe you can get to the switch from underneath the truck with little trouble, however, you would have to be over a pit or substantially jack it up to get good access. > On a related note, the fuel guage doesn't work. The needle in the dash bounces > when I turn the key on, so I think the meter is working, but the sender must > be screwed. I don't know if it ever worked since I reinstalled the tank, etc., > though. I only had 1.5 gallons of gas in it, hardly enough to get above E > anyway.. To test the fuel gauge switch, first disconnect the lead from the tank and ground it on the chassis. The gauge should rise to the full mark. If not, the problem is not the sender unit. If it rises to the full, the problem is with the grounding of the sender unit (probably) or less likely in the sender unit itself. Good Luck Nate Dunsmore Rocking Horse Farm Boring, MD 21020 dunsmo19@us.net ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 16:33:00 +0000 From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Subject: Re: Mechanical Brake Light Switch >Anyone ever build a mechanical brake light switch, something that might attach >to the pedal? Er...yes.A little known firm called Land Rover did:-) I take it you've got the hydraulic switch.My '70 11A has the mechanical one on the..wait for it..brake pedal.But what the differences,if any,to the pedal itself are,I know not. Cheers Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Valves? (oh, and what is this engine thing?) Date: Mon, 20 May 96 16:37:33 BST > >I'll explain the symptoms: > >Uneven running gradually increasing over a period of weeks to jumpy running. > >Lack of power. > Could be a head gasket. My SIIa did the same thing with it blew the gasket. Its firing on only 3 cylinders, so I guess the blown bit of the gasket must be quite small and at one end. How can I tell if its the gasket, without taking the head off? Richard > >Hints, tips, words of advice? What tools am I going to need? > >Feeler gauges, valve compressor, guess a pressure gauge for good luck. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)] > Chris Stevens > Towson, MD ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: harincar@internet.mdms.com Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 10:16:12 -0500 Subject: Re: Mechanical Brake Light Switch Mike wrote... >Er...yes.A little known firm called Land Rover did:-) >I take it you've got the hydraulic switch.My '70 11A has the >mechanical one on the..wait for it..brake pedal.But what the >differences,if any,to the pedal itself are,I know not. Ya know, I thought I heard that they changed that over. But I couldn't find any reference to a mechanical switch in the RN catalog (not that they show everything, but they do show the hydraulic switch). Maybe I'll just give them a call and see what they say. Tim --- tim Harincar harincar@mooregs.com '66 IIa 88 SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 20 May 96 11:49:31 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> Subject: Re[2]: Mechanical Brake Light Switch Mike wrote... >Er...yes.A little known firm called Land Rover did:-) >I take it you've got the hydraulic switch.My '70 11A has the >mechanical one on the..wait for it..brake pedal.But what the >differences,if any,to the pedal itself are,I know not. I think that the switch Mike is referring to is part of the dual master/ servo pedal box. Probably not compatible with the old type of box. May be possible, who knows... Dave ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 17:06:10 +0000 From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Subject: Re[2]: Mechanical Brake Light Switch >I think that the switch Mike is referring to is part of the dual master/ servo >pedal box. Probably not compatible with the old type of box. May be possible, >who knows... >Dave Not so Dave.This is a '70 S11a 88" Wadder we have here.No dual master,no servo,nuthin'.I dont know offhand when the change took place,but a mates '68 petrol 88 has the same switch.Strangely *its* gone wrong too.... Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Gary Stamp (MS Mail)" <GStamp@tctrd1.crosfield.co.uk> Subject: rad type Date: Mon, 20 May 96 17:02:00 gmt Hello, My 1985 RR has a porous radiator. Are all RR radiators the same or does Air-conditioning make a difference ? /Gary ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Gregspitz@aol.com Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 12:27:10 -0400 Subject: Re: Moaning sound I have a moan sign on the right side of my 95 NA D90 when I get to high rpm between 3rd and 4th gear. Any Ideas?? ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com> Subject: RE: Baby is Here! Date: Mon, 20 May 96 12:11:00 CDT Congratulations! Buy a FC101 for him. (You'll either be his idol for life, or his "crazy" father that gave him a monster to drive - hopefully you'll raise him in the Rover tradition and the former option will take place!) Douglas Boehme '95 Red D90 #2767 ---------- From: rovah Subject: Baby is Here! Date: Monday, May 20, 1996 10:49AM We now have a new baby boy! 7 pounds, 9 ounces...born at 08:11 after a quite speedy delivery! All is well with mother and child and now I have to find another restorable Series truck to drive when he's of age(at least it's a good excuse!)! Cheers! John John Cassidy Bangor, Maine USA 2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S 4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover, 1966 Series IIA ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 20 May 96 12:50:02 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> Subject: moaning sounds... I frequently hear a moaning sound when I'm working on my frame-over, usually it happens when I'm trying to undo another rusted bolt...I think it may be coming from my wallet. Dave ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 20 May 96 12:54:36 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> Subject: Re[3]: Mechanical Brake Light Switch Not so Dave.This is a '70 S11a 88" Wadder we have here.No dual master,no servo,nuthin'.I dont know offhand when the change took place,but a mates '68 petrol 88 has the same switch.Strangely *its* gone wrong too.... Mike Rooth Oh.:-) I think all the late IIa's over here came with the servo, etc. Which is why I ass|u|me-d that yours had the same kit. I wonder if its the same box. I guess Tim probably knows by now... Dave "Standing Corrected" B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: harincar@internet.mdms.com Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 11:32:13 -0500 Subject: Re: Re[2]: Mechanical Brake Light Switch mike said... >Not so Dave.This is a '70 S11a 88" Wadder we have here.No dual master,no >servo,nuthin'.I dont know offhand when the change took place,but a mates >'68 petrol 88 has the same switch.Strangely *its* gone wrong too.... I just called RN, talked to Charlie. He said that the mechanical switch was only used on the dual master, servo brake system (i.e. sIII). The tower is different. But, maybe that was NA spec only or some such. He did say I could, if I was carefull and had a friend, replace the hydraulic switch without needing to bleed the system. While in *theory* this may be possible (or possible for the RN mechanics), I doubt i could pull it off. I *know* that the switch is very solidly connected into the 5-way because I've already tried to remove it (when I was doing the brake lines). Getting it off while everything is in place would be a major, major task. Tim --- tim harincar harincar@mooregs.com '66 IIa 88 SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 18:29:28 +0100 (BST) From: threedee <threedee@iol.ie> Subject: Ralphs' Weird Power Problems. >Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 13:42:58 >To: <Ralph@playground.sun.com> [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] >Ralph. >I am not the owner of a 101, though having some experience of heavy petrol vehicles, would wonder if your 101 is running hot. (even slightly) >At first, your 101 runs well. That is until it warms up, and then these 'Weird Power Problems' occur. When it next happens, stop and check your petrol (Gas) lines and see if any of them are especially warm. When you gun your machine for hills there would be an increase in heat, and this could cause some vapourising of your gas. (Carbs don't deal with gas gas, only liquid gas). If this seems likely to be a cause, simply insulate your gas line with some heavy foil (especially where it is closer to anything hot). >This in other vehicles (I don't know about the 101) is a common cause for >To: <Ralph@playground.sun.com> strange power drains. I also wonder if your 101 suffers from 'pinking'. This would be another symptom. >I hope this is of some help. >David, <threedee@iol.ie> [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] >David, <threedee@iol.ie> >Land Rover 90, (300Tdi) CSW. And registered only with uk-lro-digest. ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 10:41:37 -0700 From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Subject: Re: Mechanical Brake Light Switch You wrote: >Ya know, I thought I heard that they changed that over. But I couldn't >find any reference to a mechanical switch in the RN catalog (not that they [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] >Tim >--- Its in the LR parts catalog. Cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 20 May 96 11:29:56 +0700 From: "David C. Mackie" <aeub01@supernet.ab.ca> Subject: Should I Pass This One Up? Yesterday I visited a fellow selling a 1974 Series III SWB (chassis 25903483B). The car had been extensively renovated with respect to engine, driveline, interior and appeared in nice condition. Unfortunately, the owner had recently experienced a broken tappet which prevents starting up the engine or test driving the vehicle. The vehicle may have been driven about 100 KM with the broken tappet to get it back into town. Other observations: both swivel balls have serious rust and pits associated with the rust. There was some oil seepage from the right assembly. The frame appears solid but I suspect some rust here as well. The exterior of the car requires painting. The owner is asking Canadian $9,000. I would undertake some work myself on the car but would have to have a shop deal with the engine and the swivel balls. Is this a good buy? // ------------------------------------------------------- // David C. Mackie // Edmonton, Alberta, Canada // aeub01@supernet.ab.ca // ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 15:44:05 -0400 (EDT) From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu> Subject: Re: Should I Pass This One Up? Run young man!! run very fast very far ....and not in the direction of this Rover. This is no "deal". A sound screwing is what you were about to get. Russ W. 67 swb "The Pig" ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 20 May 96 16:38:17 EDT From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@CompuServe.COM> Subject: Noises Floris writes re noises at the front of his lr, I note that you sign as 2a ambulance, does the 109 have an oil cooler ? If so the pressure control valves often vibrate, usually worse when the oil level is low, or when braking andf the oil runs to the front of the sump. Regards Bill Leacock Limey in exile. ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 15:55:09 From: IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILLIAM ADAMS) Subject: British Bike Day and Moaning,+ other stuff To those poor souls who failed to make it to British Bike Day yesternoon, I'll give a short recap. Highlight: 1950 Vincent Black Shadow with 265 miles on the odometer and looking for all the world as though it had come off the line yesterday. Heart stopping. This was the fastest bike on earth in its time and still can whip most new ones: top speed 140 mph. Many many Nortons and BSAs with a strong showing by Triumph(4 awesome Hurricanes made it). Best T-shirt: LUCAS:Experience the Difference! We have. The 109 seemed to draw a great deal more attention than any single motorcycle. I had to spend a good deal of time giving the "Grand Tour" instead of sniffing motorcycle seats. I met two other Rover owners who, although are not on the list, promised to attend the Bowie British Car Day and the Virginia rally, so I'm sure I'll hook up with them again. Met another new Rover owner at the Waste Transfer Station as I was dropping off a dead dishwasher. It is a very popular place to meet other Roverheads, as I have met two others: a 110 owner (using it to haul yard waste) and an 88 sIII owner. Anyway this lady was full of stories about her experiences overseas with not only Rovers, but a very cool FJ Landcruiser 5 door Station Wagon Diesel. She was very excited to see another Rover and told me all about her new Baby, a 109 S2A with a 6, although it seemed like a truck that needed a lot of work. It will be going north to her farm in Vermont, so all you up there get ready to greet a new pal. As to the moaning sound I would guess that the water pump bearings are shot. The moan comes on as the engine idles down and the drive belt unloads. But what do I know. Apologies for length, but it had to be said. Bill Adams 3Dmentia computer animation 4016 Spruell Drive Kensington, MD 20895 301-949-9475 '66 Land Rover S2A 109" Station Wagon Diesel ...all there ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 13:24:40 -0800 From: "Deanna D. Sitter" <lani@alaska.net> Subject: nuts and bolts I'm new to this net thing so I hope this works. Here is some useful info regarding nuts and bolts. You may have noticed that the whitworth bolts are graded by the letters S, T, and V (I haven't seen a V yet). Grade S has a min. tensile strength of 112,000 P.S.I. Grade T is 123,200 and grade V is 145,600. Ungraded fasteners are 62,720. This compares to S.A.E. grade 2 at 64,000, grade 5 at 120,000, grade 6 at 133,000 and grade 8 at 150,000. the standard aircraft AN3 to AN20(the AN number refers to the diameter of the bolt in 1/16th's of an inch) series bolts have a minimum tensile strength of 125,000 p.s.i. I use these as much as possible because they are available at decent prices here in Alaska where there are so many airplanes and they are corrosion resistant. Also they are avaiable in length that vary by 1/16th of an inch and have just the right amount of thread for each length. As to tires, I've worked in a tire shop for quite a while, so here are my thoughts on tires for series Rovers. While a 235/85r16 calls for a min. of a 6 inch rim I wouldn't hesitate to put them on the 5.5, in fact I have with good results. Be careful with the new style 16 inch rover wheels. They have a reversed drop center, which is to say that it is located closer to the back side of the rim. This requires the tire to be installed from the back side of the rim. If someone installs it on a conventional tire machine with the outside of the rim facing up the machine's lower dismounting shoe will hook in the drop center and bend the rim. Have them mounted on a Mag/European style wheel machine. These are pretty common nowadays. 235/85r16's are about 32" tall which is the same as a 7.50-16. The 235's are a little wider and much more available. 215/85r16's are about 30.5" tall and the same width as a 7.50, they make great winter tires as they leave plenty of room for chain clearance. 225/75r16's are about 29" tall. As for mud tires, I have been running 31x10.50-15 super swampers on the factory 6" rim. The rim is a little narrow for this tire but provides good bead retention at low air pressure. I had to adjust the steering stops a little and still get some inner fender rubing both front and back when I've got it crossed up hard. Ideally I'd like a wider wheel for this but at the moment am unwilling to spend the money. I usually ride on my 16's as my Rover is my daily driver and just bolt on the swampers when heading off-road. The road manners are pretty good on the swampers. I've heard that American Racing makes their AR23 style wheel in a 16x7 with the Rover 5x6.5 bolt pattern. I don't know if it's designed for late or early model stuff. As for a replacement for Range Rover 205r16's try 225/75r16's, they're about the same height but wider. The 205 is an awfully narrow tire for those 7" wheels. Lastly, I'm putting a Ford 5.0 fuel injected engine in my Rover('73 88") this summer and would apreciate any input as I hate reinventing the wheel. Tim Sitter ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "S. Vels" <svels@dk-online.dk> Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 23:27:51 +0000 Subject: Re: Valves? (oh, and what is this engine thing?) > Uneven running gradually increasing over a period of weeks to jumpy running. > Lack of power. (Trouble getting past 30 mph - got stopped by the police > on Saturday on the M25 for going too slow!) Sounds like when i blew a valve (ex on 4) except it was a matter of days, not weeks. Engine was really shaky. > heavy deposits (symptoms of how I've been driving it??), and No.4 was as > black as the ace of spades. Checked sparks - all work. Sounds familiar. > Suspect valves? I know sod-all about taking engines apart, but tonight, > I'm going to take the rocker box off and have a look inside. Hopefully its > just a stuck valve. If not it sounds like all the possibilities are quite > serious (cylinder head off time). If it's a stuck valve, you better take the (engine)head off and clean/grind the valves. If there is a lot of crud between the valve and the seat it will probably burn anyway. > Hints, tips, words of advice? What tools am I going to need? > Feeler gauges, valve compressor, guess a pressure gauge for good luck. All plugs fires?. If a gasket leaks to the outside it might develop a wheezeing or whissling sound. If it leaks between cylinders, you will have next to no power. If a scracper ring is gone you should consume oil much faster than before. If you can rule out everything but the valves do the following. Take the head off. Removepush rods and number them 1 to 8 since the have to back in the same holes respectively. Remove the manifold assembly. Make a spring compression tool. Go to the tool market and get a vice thing (eng?) and file/saw/drill a U at the fixed end. Cheap and works. Compress spring and remove the spring cap and the two little bits. Repeat x7. Save the caps and bits. Check the valves. My no 4 looked like a rodent took a bite (how did the squirrel get from the blower into the engine). Problably metal fatigue according to my brother. Change at least all exhaust valves. Better change all 8 while your'e at it. If you have a sIII four pot - do not try to remove the seats. There aren't any. Get new guides with the parts order. Check with the new valves in the old guides for slack. Drive bad guides out with a hammer and a piece of iron. Guide driving tools are expensive, so you make your own. Cheap. Take an old valve and slide 3-4 washers down the stem. Slide an old guide on followed by the new guide. Use a good hammer and drive the sucker in. Now you must grind the valves against the seats that aren't there. Get a valve grinding kit. Coarse and fine paste and a stick with a rubber thing at the end. Use coarse until both surfaces look fine the finish off with fine. Before assembly you must get all traces of grinding paste off. Use lots of tissue/toilet paper with petrol. Grinding paste will wear your engine real fast. Now put on new oil seals on top of the guides, put a little engine oil on the valves and assemble. Check the rocker gear. Wiggle all the rockers and check for slack. Too much slack will reduce the oil pressure between the shaft and the bush. Drive in new bushes if necessary. A new shaft is also good if you are in a spending mood. (Think of all the money you saved on tools). Put a new head gasket on (top up) and reinstall the head/push rods/rocker gear. Before you insert the push rods, check the tappets to see if these brass things are intact. Loosen the valve adjustment screws before fitting the rocker gear. Adjust valves, crank a couple of times, put the cover on and start. You will probably need to adjust valves a couple of times in the near future. Tools: X-bar Sockets Toque wrench Feeler guages Vice thing Grinding kit Common tools Parts: Valves Springs Guides Guide oil seals Head gasket 3+ Rocker cover gaskets Bushings Shaft Hints: - GET A SHOP MANUAL AND/OR THE DIY GUIDE. - One head bolt is thinner that the other (sIII). Get it back in it's own hole. - If head bolts are stuck, use a socket on a x-bar to loosen. - Remove all water/oil/dirt from the holes in the block before you insert the bolts. Hydraulic lock might crack your engine block. Not funny. - Make sure block/head surfaces areclean before reassembly. good luck sv/aurens ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 19:39:45 -0400 From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice) Subject: Re: No Subject > I know I told you we were coming to the rally & off road day in Maine >....not clear on the $ 5 you want it sent in now or at the rally?? >to you or to Miles Murphy?? Steve Send it to Miles, by all means. I'm just looking to see if anyone wants to caravan up. Cheers Mike ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 20:15:36 -0400 (-0400) From: rotero@ing.puc.cl (Rodrigo Otero) Subject: Hi I just got here I just suscribed to LRO and I got a bunch of very interesting e-mails back. At least this first time was fun to read. I have a 1964 S2a 109 with a canvas top and a 1981 88 S3a Special (Santana, manufactured in Spain). The 109 has a beatiful hydraulic winch but I have no idea how it works. I have made it work but with very little strengh. Can some one give me a tip. Thanks Rodrigo Otero P. Universidad Cat=F3lica de Chile Departament of Bioprocess and Chemical Ingeneering. E-Mail rotero@ing.pu.cl ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ASFCO@aol.com Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 20:48:12 -0400 Subject: Re: No Subject MIke; Hello!! We are planning to leave here Friday for Maine ..sometime in the AM most likely around 8 or so..love company..thinking about taking both Rovers but not sure as of yet.. Mike Smith sent me an e-mail...heres what he said.. "Pay at the gate...See you there! the only thing I need yo know is how many in your party so the ammount of food and parking will be correct. Everyone attending the off road day must RSVP, or you won't get in. you can pay the fee at the gate when you arrive" as far as OVLR..will await my friends arrival from Long Island then head up most likely between Noon and 1 pm, planning to go up thru utica to Rome the way you suggested. looks like around 340 total miles to me according to the map.let me know if you want to meet up somewhere.. Al Richer told me he will be going straight North via rt 89 taking a ferry across the river and then west to Ottawa..he will not be coming this way.. Rgds Steve ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Wdcockey@aol.com Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 20:50:21 -0400 Subject: Re: Mechanical Brake Light Switch (LR PART NUMBERS) Today's discussion on SIIA mechanical brake light switches has been lively. Consulting the IIA Parts Manual (RTC9840CC) shows two different mechanical switch setups. For non-assisted brakes from suffix "F" onwards the switch mounts on a bracket which bolts to the bulkhead using the same bolts which hold the spring anchors. The bracket replaces one spring anchor. (Early IIA use one long anchor bracket. Saw it in half or replace with a later type anchor for the clutch). LR part numbers are: 569201 Switch protector plate and spring anchor 13H3735 Stop lamp switch 569058 Mounting bracket for stop lamp switch 569117 End Stop BMK1903 Special locknut 560223 Special bolt NT605061 Locknut (5/16 UNF) The brake pedal and box have different part numbers also but it looks like the setup should work with the earlier pedals with little or no modification. I doubt you will find these parts in North America although RN could special order. For oddball parts I've had good luck with Dingocroft in High Wycombe. >From the US dial 011-44-1494-448367 or fax 011-44-1494-459964. Shipping for such small parts shouldn't be too expensive. The manual shows a completely different setup for assisted brakes on 6 cyl. This has the brake switch mounted through the top plate of the brake pedal box. Presumably this is the setup used on NADA vehicles with assisted brakes. The parts catalogs don't always show the NADA setups. BTW a parts manual is an excellent investment. David Cockey Rochester MI ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Wdcockey@aol.com Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 21:09:02 -0400 Subject: Re: Clutch problem (WEAR POINT) Michel has a clutch problem and noticed that his clutch push rod is out of adjustment: >Is it possible that the pushrod can wear that much? Solutions? New pushrod? On my low mileage (30k) II, there was noticable wear on the cross shaft that the push rod bolts to, and in the corresponding holes in the pedal. I don't know if it lead to problem you describe but it is worth a look. BTW according to a parts manual later pedals had bosses added where the shaft bears which may reduce wear. The SII's have only a single metal thickness as bearing surface. I'm wondering if the wear is sufficient to lead to symptons of clutches not releasing fully. David Cockey Rochester, MI ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 21:41:47 -0400 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Moaning sound Gadzooks, Floris, *get out NOW*! And watch out for the pea soup! 109 IIa *ambulance* eh? Probably the ghosts of all those that have died in the back. A neighbor's house is haunted that way. Seriously, though. Is it clutch related? Mine (though it's a III with the ferro-bestos throw-out bearing) made weird moanings in the cold just before it died. (Nice warning though to get the necessary parts.) And the three-way connector on the rear axle "hoots" when you release the brakes. Probably some kind of weird harmonics set up by coolant flow. My brother had one that made funny noises. Cheers ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com> Subject: RE: Moaning sound. Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 22:25:42 -0400 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I believe that you'll find the culprit is within the engine oil cooler = plumbing/valving. I have an airportable which displays similar noises. A = friend of mine with an ex-MOD 109 also - he replaced some bits in that = system and the noise was eliminated. cheers Jim ---------- From: houniet@xs4all.nl[SMTP:houniet@xs4all.nl] Sent: Sunday, May 19, 1996 8:42 PM Subject: Re: Moaning sound. Here's some more info: I've been collecting some data on the moaning sound, but just as I think that I've ruled out when it does and doesn't happen, it happens when it shouldn't. Anyway, usually it happens when: I come to a standstill, that's what got me thinking it might be the torsion bar settling, but it also happens standing absoloutly still, and more often with the engine cold. It does only happen with the engine running so my last bet is the thermostat vibrating as it opens....??? I don't have servo assisted brakes, so it can't be that, i suppose it could have something to do with the waterpump, but why would it moan when having come to a standstill. Maybe I accidently put holy water into my devil beset landy... That would explain all the smoke ... Maybe I can make a recording and post it ! (I'll first play it backwards to check for demonic messages!) Floris 'twilight zone' Houniet. Ye old 109 SIIa Ambulance. ------ =_NextPart_000_01BB4696.213B6540 ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 23:19:43 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: Re: LROI price for USA On Sun, 19 May 1996, ROB MODICA wrote: > I just received my renewal letter from Land Rover Owner dated 30 April and the > one year price was 71 quid!!! What gives? Is that a club membership or a > special for Canada? Where did you get the 57 qiud price? Here is the LRO Shop announcement made during the time the mailing list was having some troubles. I suggest that you call the 888 number below and discuss it with them on the proper course of action vis-a-vis your renewal. The offer is good for all North American subscribers. Additional club member discounts are another matter entirely... Rgds, Dixon =================== With considerable input from Dixon Kenner at Ottawa Valley Land Rover club we have been pressing LRO International to reduce the subscription price of LRO in North America. As many of you know it was cheaper to buy it on the news stands. I am delighted to advise that our efforts have paid off and a one year subscription will now cost British Pounds 57, a reduction of BP20. Still to be confirmed is how existing subscriptions will be treated. We believe it will be one additional copy for every three outstanding. If you have just taken out a subscription you will receive 4 additional editions. For those of you who have been asking about subscriptions we will be happy to assist you at 1-888-LRO-SHOP. We will now begin the push for more coverage of North American events and issues. Let us know by e-mail what you would like to see in LRO International. With kind regards LRO SHOP ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 23:47:29 -0400 (EDT) From: "Paul O'Donnell" <paulod@erols.com> Subject: Re: Temperature Gauge on Disco At 07:52 PM 5/19/96 -0700, you wrote: > I have noticed that my 3-week-old Disco's temperature guage never >registers higher than then minimum.... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- There's a very good chance that the thermostat is malfunctioning. Take it in to the dealer, I'm positve that the 3 year-42,000 mile warranty will take care of it. Cheers, Paul ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 21:53:26 -0700 From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Subject: Re: Should I Pass This One Up? At 11:29 AM 5/20/96 +0700, David C. Mackie wrote: >Yesterday I visited a fellow selling a 1974 Series III SWB (chassis >25903483B). > Unfortunately, the >owner had recently experienced a broken tappet which prevents starting up [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >Other observations: both swivel balls have serious rust and pits associated >with the rust. >The owner is asking Canadian $9,000. >Is this a good buy? For an engine that may need total rebuilding & swivel ball s that needs replacing, say goodbuy. From your description it sounds like it should go for less than half that. TeriAnn twakeman@scruznet.com <- NOTE NEW ADDRESS Celebrating my tenth year on Usenet/Internet ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 21:49:28 -0700 From: dholt@intergate.bc.ca (david holt) Subject: Re: Should I Pass This One Up? >Yesterday I visited a fellow selling a 1974 Series III SWB (chassis >25903483B). The car had been extensively renovated with respect to engine, [ truncated by lro-digester (was 26 lines)] >// ------------------------------------------------------- >Sounds just a little steep even in Cdn. duneros. Sure the price of our Land Rovers have gone up, but not that much. As it sits I would offer him $3000.00 Cdn. If he doesn't like it there are other vehicles out there. Brian Holt Maple Ridge, B.C., Canada dholt@intergate.bc.ca ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 22:11:39 -0700 From: dholt@intergate.bc.ca (david holt) Subject: Re: Should I Pass This One Up? >Yesterday I visited a fellow selling a 1974 Series III SWB (chassis >25903483B). The car had been extensively renovated with respect to engine, [ truncated by lro-digester (was 26 lines)] >// ------------------------------------------------------- >Even in Cdn. funds this price is way out in left field. Offer him or her $3000.00 Cdn. If they don't like that there are plenty more good vehicles out there which you will be much happier with. Brian Holt Vancouver, B.C., Canada dholt@intergate.bc.ca ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 09:32:51 +0000 From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Subject: Re: Re[2]: Mechanical Brake Light Switch >I just called RN, talked to Charlie. He said that the mechanical switch was >only used on the dual master, servo brake system (i.e. sIII). The tower is >different. But, maybe that was NA spec only or some such. OK,Tim,chapter and verse:-) Charlie may well be right about NADA cars,but certainly not the rest of the world.The setup is listed in the S11A Workshop Manual,Part 2 Page 34-N. The setup is this.There is a plunger switch,of the Normally Closed persuasion,held with its axis parallel to the upper surface of the footwell by a right angled bracket which is held in place by the middle pair of bolts that secure the brake box and pedal assy.Inside the cab.The switch,for want of a better description,is of the "panel mounting" variety.That is to say that the relevant bit of the bracket has a hole in it to take the switch,which is nutted fore and aft. On the pedal itself,there is a hole alongside the bracket for the pedal pull-off spring.In this hole (which may be threaded) is what amounts to a round headed bolt with adjustment/securing screws.The bolt makes contact with the plunger of the switch,keeping the latter open.Obviously,when the pedal is depressed(arent we all?) the plunger "makes" and operates the stop lights. Switch replacement is a complete doddle,since it interferes with nothing else,and only has to be re-adjusted on replacement. It may well also be fitted to the S111,since most of the "improvements" on that model were already in place on the later 11A's. Hope this helps. Cheers Mike ------------------------------[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Valves? (oh, and what is this engine thing?) Date: Tue, 21 May 96 10:58:33 BST Thanks - I'll keep that message on file - I might need the valve info. I still haven't managed to rule out the rockers/tappets working loose on one of the valves. I'm in the process of acquiring tools - typically for the job in hand! Also, I have those spark plugs with mil. covers (to mate with the shielding on the HT cables), which makes them difficult to get out without a long hollow spanner (job for today, get one of them!) I'll check spark gaps whilst I'm at it, but this sounds unlikely. I'm hoping it is the rocker screw that's worked too loose or too tight (been talking this over with my father, he reckons its quite common, generally - especially if one of the locknuts hasn't been tightened properly). Other possibilities: Although compression has been checked, it wasn't by me, so I don't know if all 4 were checked. Also, because I couldn't get the spark plugs out lastnight, I couldn't do the oil trick to test my rings. Sounds unlikely, but I should check it whilst I'm at it. Similarly, someone suggested yesterday (sorry, I don't have the email handy) that I check the air hose to the carb. This is fine. I've done a patch job to the small wear holes, but the lining is fine. Richard > > Suspect valves? I know sod-all about taking engines apart, but tonight, > > I'm going to take the rocker box off and have a look inside. Hopefully its [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > clean/grind the valves. If there is a lot of crud between the valve > and the seat it will probably burn anyway. etc ------------------------------[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Engine woes Date: Tue, 21 May 96 11:16:07 BST > First thing is to get a good cylinder compression guage and record all the > readings. You want all spark plugs out for this, so the engine will spin [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > If one or several are low and compression doesn't increase, it's sticking or > worn valves. If two adjacenT ones are low, it's a blown head gasket. Cheers I haven't been able to discount mal-adjusted rockers/tappets (ie. which have worked loose or tightened up). Not having the right tools (yet), means I haven't been able to remove the spark plugs yet. This is the job for tonight. I did buy a compression gauge yesterday, though. Richard ------------------------------[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST Input: messages 45 lines 1943 [forwarded 235 whitespace 464] Output: lines 1480 [content 864 forwarded 139 (cut 96) whitespace 419] Land Rover Owner Subscription Information: * All new subscription requests are via the digest. * In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved (by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net Useful commands for this are 'index lro-digest' which returns a list of files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc. World Wide Web Sites start at http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/pages.html (shadow) http://www.OpenMarket.com/personal/caloccia/lr/pages.html If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net -B[ First Message | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960521 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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