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msgSender linesSubject
1 "Ron Franklin" [oldhaven32Re: Re. Tyres
2 chrisste@clark.net (Chri22Re: Valves? (oh, and what is this engine thing?)
3 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u19Re: Valves? (oh, and what is this engine thing?)
4 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u18Re: Valves? (oh, and what is this engine thing?)
5 "LRO Shop (North America10Books
6 "T.Stevenson" [gbfv08@ud19Re: Moaning sound
7 "T.Stevenson" [gbfv08@ud22Re: Valves? (oh, and what is this engine thing?)
8 harincar@internet.mdms.c36Mechanical Brake Light Switch
9 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u18Re: Valves? (oh, and what is this engine thing?)
10 "Jakob Christensen" [vel23RE: Where is the frame number on SIII 109?
11 Nathan Dunsmore [dunsmo133Re: Mechanical Brake Light Switch
12 M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M13Re: Mechanical Brake Light Switch
13 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u22Re: Valves? (oh, and what is this engine thing?)
14 harincar@internet.mdms.c23Re: Mechanical Brake Light Switch
15 "Bobeck, David R." [dbob17Re[2]: Mechanical Brake Light Switch
16 M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M14Re[2]: Mechanical Brake Light Switch
17 "Gary Stamp (MS Mail)" [12rad type
18 Gregspitz@aol.com 8Re: Moaning sound
19 "Boehme, Doug" [dboehme@32RE: Baby is Here!
20 "Bobeck, David R." [dbob10moaning sounds...
21 "Bobeck, David R." [dbob17Re[3]: Mechanical Brake Light Switch
22 harincar@internet.mdms.c28Re: Re[2]: Mechanical Brake Light Switch
23 threedee [threedee@iol.i27Ralphs' Weird Power Problems.
24 jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (17Re: Mechanical Brake Light Switch
25 "David C. Mackie" [aeub026Should I Pass This One Up?
26 Russell U Wilson [ruwst+11Re: Should I Pass This One Up?
27 "William L. Leacock" [7511Noises
28 IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILL78British Bike Day and Moaning,+ other stuff
29 "Deanna D. Sitter" [lani53nuts and bolts
30 "S. Vels" [svels@dk-onli104Re: Valves? (oh, and what is this engine thing?)
31 landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mi16Re: No Subject
32 rotero@ing.puc.cl (Rodri20Hi I just got here
33 ASFCO@aol.com 27Re: No Subject
34 Wdcockey@aol.com 37Re: Mechanical Brake Light Switch (LR PART NUMBERS)
35 Wdcockey@aol.com 20Re: Clutch problem (WEAR POINT)
36 rover@pinn.net (Alexande15Moaning sound
37 Jim Pappas [roverhed@m3.43RE: Moaning sound.
38 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em47Re: LROI price for USA
39 "Paul O'Donnell" [paulod17Re: Temperature Gauge on Disco
40 twakeman@scruznet.com (T29Re: Should I Pass This One Up?
41 dholt@intergate.bc.ca (d17Re: Should I Pass This One Up?
42 dholt@intergate.bc.ca (d17Re: Should I Pass This One Up?
43 M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M33Re: Re[2]: Mechanical Brake Light Switch
44 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u34Re: Valves? (oh, and what is this engine thing?)
45 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u19Re: Engine woes


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From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@biddeford.com>
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 08:16:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Re. Tyres

On 19 May 96 at 16:48, Andy Purser wrote:

      In reference to the request for information on 16" tires here is a
 brand I haven't heard anyone mention. While searching for BF Goodrich Mud
 Terrian tires, I located BRIDGESTONE MUD DUELERS in P235/75 at about $100.00
 cheaper! I bought a set and found them to be very aggressive off-road and
 very QUIET on road. I really don't know who they will compare with the BF
Goodrich in the longrun ( I've always preferred the latter) but I am very
 happy with the price vs. service thus far. Just food for thought! 
> A. Purser
 

I've been very pleased with the off-road performance of the Cooper 
Discoverer Radial CTD's in 7.50R16 that I have on my 88.  They have a 
fairly aggressive tread and moderate sidewall paddles, in load range D.  I 
don't find them noisy on the road but at 55 mph in Erik the Viking (named 
after the previous owner: Erik Viik), the tires are the quietest of the 
orchestra members.

By the way, congratulations to Teriann, imagine BFG naming a tire after 
you.  Too bad they got the spelling wrong.

enjoying the Morning, hope you are too,
Ron Franklin

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

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Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 08:38:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: Re: Valves?    (oh, and what is this engine thing?)

>I'll explain the symptoms:
>Uneven running gradually increasing over a period of weeks to jumpy running.
>Lack of power.

Could be a head gasket. My SIIa did the same thing with it blew the gasket.

>Hints, tips, words of advice? What tools am I going to need?
>Feeler gauges, valve compressor, guess a pressure gauge for good luck.

Not that difficult. Really. I did it with the help of the folks on this
list. Best advice: take the head with the new springs, seals, valves to a
machine shop (get the seats from them). Cost? For $100 US they cleaned the
head; and installed the new parts. All I had to do was slap in a new head
gasket and torque the thing down.

Chris Stevens
Towson, MD

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Valves? (oh, and what is this engine thing?)
Date: Mon, 20 May 96 14:18:02 BST

> >Hints, tips, words of advice? What tools am I going to need?
> >Feeler gauges, valve compressor, guess a pressure gauge for good luck.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> Cheers
> Mike Rooth

Apparantly the spark plugs were giving a reasonable spark. Two were
checked out of the engine (including no. 4), but I didn't see them
(I was behind the wheel).

Richard

 

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Valves?    (oh, and what is this engine thing?)
Date: Mon, 20 May 96 14:23:18 BST

> >I'll explain the symptoms:
> >Uneven running gradually increasing over a period of weeks to jumpy running.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
> machine shop (get the seats from them). Cost? For $100 US they cleaned the
> head; and installed the new parts. All I had to do was slap in a new head
> gasket and torque the thing down.

Would this lead to only three cylinders firing?

(As I said, I know very little about these things!!)

Richard

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Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 09:59:09 -0400
From: "LRO Shop (North America)" <lroshop@idirect.com>
Subject: Books

For workshops manuals etc. please contact us by E-Mail at 

lroshop@idirect.com

We can almost certainly help you.

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Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 15:14:37 +0100 (BST)
From: "T.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Moaning sound

>I don't have servo assisted brakes, so it can't be that, i suppose it 
>could have something to do with the waterpump, but why would it moan 
>when having come to a standstill.

Do you have an oil cooler fitted? These make a peculiar moaning sound at
times, although it doesn't interfere with their operation.

 Tom
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Thomas D.I. Stevenson                          gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
SNL Mussel Fouling Project
University Marine Biological Station,      Tel 01475 530581
Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland.       Fax 01475 530601
-----------------------------------------------------------------

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Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 15:23:22 +0100 (BST)
From: "T.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Valves?  (oh, and what is this engine thing?)

>Uneven running gradually increasing over a period of weeks to jumpy running.
>Lack of power.  (Trouble getting past 30 mph - got stopped by the police
>on Saturday on the M25 for going too slow!)

Try looking at the air intake hose. Sometimes the lining becomes detached
and closes off the air supply to the carb as revs rise and the suction
increases; this also leads to carbon fouled plugs since the mixture is then
too rich for the meagre amount of air being drawn in. Once relieved of
vacuum, the hose lining springs back to its original shape.

 Tom
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Thomas D.I. Stevenson                          gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
SNL Mussel Fouling Project
University Marine Biological Station,      Tel 01475 530581
Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland.       Fax 01475 530601
-----------------------------------------------------------------

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From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 09:10:37 -0500
Subject: Mechanical Brake Light Switch

Well, the fallout from my Smoke Letting continues... 

Seems I did somehting to the brake light switch. When I turn the key on, I
get dim brake lights. I've traced the problem right to the switch itself,
so I must have fused it together or something allowing a contact. If I bypass
the switch, and do a direct connection to the lights I get full, bright, solid
lights (as I would expect).

Anyone ever build a mechanical brake light switch, something that might attach
to the pedal? While a new switch is only $16.50, the Pain and Suffering that
would go with replacing it (pulling the wing, disconnecting the 5-way, 
changing the switch, reconnecting the lines, doing *another* bleed...) make
me really want to kludge something for the time being.

On a related note, the fuel guage doesn't work. The needle in the dash bounces
when I turn the key on, so I think the meter is working, but the sender must
be screwed. I don't know if it ever worked since I reinstalled the tank, etc.,
though. I only had 1.5 gallons of gas in it, hardly enough to get above E
anyway..

...

I received a nice pair of genuine mud flaps and a center seat belt kit for
my birthday. That's pretty great. More rover projects.... :-p

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW 'algernon'

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Valves?  (oh, and what is this engine thing?)
Date: Mon, 20 May 96 15:47:45 BST

> >Uneven running gradually increasing over a period of weeks to jumpy running.
> >Lack of power.  (Trouble getting past 30 mph - got stopped by the police
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> too rich for the meagre amount of air being drawn in. Once relieved of
> vacuum, the hose lining springs back to its original shape.

I'll check this out, as its very easy to do (reminds me, someone found a
*small* hole which I should tape up). But, wouldn't that affect all of the
plugs? No. 4 plug is pretty consistent - it was checked twice (my little
escapade in the ditch was between the two checks).

Richard

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Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 16:59:14 -0600 (CST)
From: "Jakob Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: RE: Where is the frame number on SIII 109?

In message Mon, 20 May 1996 12:09:26 +0200 (METDST),
  Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de  writes:

> His major problem
> is to find the frame number. I know it must be somewhere on the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Can anyone be so kind and tell me the exact location, so we
> don't have to sand down the whole frame.

It should be located on the inside of the right front suspension, about 10
to 15 centimeters from the front. If the suspension was replaced it should
be restamped at the same place.

cheers.
-----------------------------------
Stine Henriksen / Jakob Christensen
Borrowed account    -   73 sIII 88"
-----------------------------------

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Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 11:08:32 -0400
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Re: Mechanical Brake Light Switch

harincar@internet.mdms.com wrote:
> Anyone ever build a mechanical brake light switch, something that might attach
> to the pedal? While a new switch is only $16.50, the Pain and Suffering that
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> changing the switch, reconnecting the lines, doing *another* bleed...) make
> me really want to kludge something for the time being.

I don't think you need to pull the wing etc.  I believe you can get to the switch from 
underneath the truck with little trouble, however, you would have to be over a pit or 
substantially jack it up to get good access.
 
> On a related note, the fuel guage doesn't work. The needle in the dash bounces
> when I turn the key on, so I think the meter is working, but the sender must
> be screwed. I don't know if it ever worked since I reinstalled the tank, etc.,
> though. I only had 1.5 gallons of gas in it, hardly enough to get above E
> anyway..

To test the fuel gauge switch, first disconnect the lead from the tank and ground it on 
the chassis.  The gauge should rise to the full mark.  If not, the problem is not the 
sender unit.  If it rises to the full, the problem is with the grounding of the sender 
unit (probably) or less likely in the sender unit itself.

Good Luck

Nate Dunsmore
Rocking Horse Farm
Boring, MD 21020
dunsmo19@us.net

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Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 16:33:00 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Mechanical Brake Light Switch

>Anyone ever build a mechanical brake light switch, something that might attach
>to the pedal?
Er...yes.A little known firm called Land Rover did:-)
I take it you've got the hydraulic switch.My '70 11A has the mechanical
one on the..wait for it..brake pedal.But what the differences,if any,to
the pedal itself are,I know not.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Valves?    (oh, and what is this engine thing?)
Date: Mon, 20 May 96 16:37:33 BST

> >I'll explain the symptoms:
> >Uneven running gradually increasing over a period of weeks to jumpy running.
> >Lack of power.
> Could be a head gasket. My SIIa did the same thing with it blew the gasket.

Its firing on only 3 cylinders, so I guess the blown bit of the gasket
must be quite small and at one end. How can I tell if its the gasket, without
taking the head off?

Richard

> >Hints, tips, words of advice? What tools am I going to need?
> >Feeler gauges, valve compressor, guess a pressure gauge for good luck.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> Chris Stevens
> Towson, MD

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From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 10:16:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Mechanical Brake Light Switch

Mike wrote...

>Er...yes.A little known firm called Land Rover did:-)
>I take it you've got the hydraulic switch.My '70 11A has the 
>mechanical one on the..wait for it..brake pedal.But what the 
>differences,if any,to the pedal itself are,I know not.

Ya know, I thought I heard that they changed that over. But I couldn't
find any reference to a mechanical switch in the RN catalog (not that they
show everything, but they do show the hydraulic switch). Maybe I'll just
give them a call and see what they say.

Tim
---
tim Harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

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Date: Mon, 20 May 96 11:49:31 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Mechanical Brake Light Switch

Mike wrote...

>Er...yes.A little known firm called Land Rover did:-)
>I take it you've got the hydraulic switch.My '70 11A has the 
>mechanical one on the..wait for it..brake pedal.But what the 
>differences,if any,to the pedal itself are,I know not.

I think that the switch Mike is referring to is part of the dual master/ servo 
pedal box. Probably not compatible with the old type of box. May be possible, 
who knows...

Dave

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Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 17:06:10 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re[2]: Mechanical Brake Light Switch

>I think that the switch Mike is referring to is part of the dual master/ servo
>pedal box. Probably not compatible with the old type of box. May be possible,
>who knows...
>Dave

Not so Dave.This is a '70 S11a 88" Wadder we have here.No dual master,no
servo,nuthin'.I dont know offhand when the change took place,but a mates
'68 petrol 88 has the same switch.Strangely *its* gone wrong too....
Mike Rooth

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From: "Gary Stamp (MS Mail)" <GStamp@tctrd1.crosfield.co.uk>
Subject: rad type
Date: Mon, 20 May 96 17:02:00 gmt

Hello,
     My 1985 RR has a porous radiator. Are all RR radiators the same or does 

Air-conditioning make a difference ?

/Gary

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From: Gregspitz@aol.com
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 12:27:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Moaning sound

I have a moan sign on the right side of my 95 NA D90 when I get to high rpm
between 3rd and 4th gear.  Any Ideas??

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From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com>
Subject: RE: Baby is Here!
Date: Mon, 20 May 96 12:11:00 CDT

Congratulations!

Buy a FC101 for him.  (You'll either be his idol for life, or his "crazy" 
father that gave him a monster to drive - hopefully you'll raise him in the 
Rover tradition and the former option will take place!)

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767
 ----------
From: rovah
Subject: Baby is Here!
Date: Monday, May 20, 1996 10:49AM

We now have a new baby boy!  7 pounds, 9 ounces...born at 08:11 after a
quite speedy delivery!  All is well with mother and child and now I have to
find another restorable Series truck to drive when he's of age(at least
it's a good excuse!)!

Cheers!  John

John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA

2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover, 1966 Series IIA

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Date: Mon, 20 May 96 12:50:02 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: moaning sounds...

I frequently hear a moaning sound when I'm working on my frame-over, usually it 
happens when I'm trying to undo another rusted bolt...I think it may be coming 
from my wallet.

Dave

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Date: Mon, 20 May 96 12:54:36 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[3]: Mechanical Brake Light Switch

Not so Dave.This is a '70 S11a 88" Wadder we have here.No dual master,no
servo,nuthin'.I dont know offhand when the change took place,but a mates
'68 petrol 88 has the same switch.Strangely *its* gone wrong too....
Mike Rooth

Oh.:-) 

I think all the late IIa's over here came with the servo, etc. Which is why I 
ass|u|me-d that yours had the same kit. I wonder if its the same box. I guess 
Tim probably knows by now...

Dave "Standing Corrected" B.

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From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 11:32:13 -0500
Subject: Re:  Re[2]: Mechanical Brake Light Switch

mike said...

>Not so Dave.This is a '70 S11a 88" Wadder we have here.No dual master,no
>servo,nuthin'.I dont know offhand when the change took place,but a mates
>'68 petrol 88 has the same switch.Strangely *its* gone wrong too....

I just called RN, talked to Charlie. He said that the mechanical switch was
only used on the dual master, servo brake system (i.e. sIII). The tower is
different. But, maybe that was NA spec only or some such.

He did say I could, if I was carefull and had a friend, replace the hydraulic
switch without needing to bleed the system. While in *theory* this may be
possible (or possible for the RN mechanics), I doubt i could pull it off.
I *know* that the switch is very solidly connected into the 5-way because
I've already tried to remove it (when I was doing the brake lines). Getting
it off while everything is in place would be a major, major task.

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

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Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 18:29:28 +0100 (BST)
From: threedee <threedee@iol.ie>
Subject: Ralphs' Weird Power Problems.

>Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 13:42:58
>To: <Ralph@playground.sun.com>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>Ralph.
>I am not the owner of a 101, though having some experience of heavy petrol
vehicles, would wonder if your 101 is running hot. (even slightly)
>At first, your 101 runs well. That is until it warms up, and then these
'Weird Power Problems' occur. When it next happens, stop and check your
petrol (Gas) lines and see if any of them are especially warm. When you gun
your machine for hills there would be an increase in heat, and this could
cause some vapourising of your gas. (Carbs don't deal with gas gas, only
liquid gas). If this seems likely to be a cause, simply insulate your gas
line with some heavy foil (especially where it is closer to anything hot).
>This in other vehicles (I don't know about the 101) is a common cause for
>To: <Ralph@playground.sun.com>
strange power drains. I also wonder if your 101 suffers from 'pinking'. This
would be another symptom.
>I hope this is of some help.
>David, <threedee@iol.ie>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>David, <threedee@iol.ie>
>Land Rover 90, (300Tdi) CSW. And registered only with uk-lro-digest.

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Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 10:41:37 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Re: Mechanical Brake Light Switch

You wrote: 
>Ya know, I thought I heard that they changed that over. But I couldn't
>find any reference to a mechanical switch in the RN catalog (not that they
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>Tim
>---

Its in the LR parts catalog.

Cheers,

Jeremy

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Date: Mon, 20 May 96 11:29:56 +0700
From: "David C. Mackie" <aeub01@supernet.ab.ca>
Subject: Should I Pass This One Up?

Yesterday I visited a fellow selling a 1974 Series III SWB (chassis 
25903483B).  The car had been extensively renovated with respect to engine, 
driveline, interior and appeared in nice condition.  Unfortunately, the 
owner had recently experienced a broken tappet which prevents starting up 
the engine or test driving the vehicle.  The vehicle may have been driven 
about 100 KM with the broken tappet to get it back into town.

Other observations: both swivel balls have serious rust and pits associated 
with the rust.  There was some oil seepage from the right assembly.  The 
frame appears solid but I suspect some rust here as well.  The exterior of 
the car requires painting.

The owner is asking Canadian $9,000.  I would undertake some work myself on 
the car but would have to have a shop deal with the engine and the swivel 
balls.   Is this a good buy?

// -------------------------------------------------------
// David C. Mackie
// Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
// aeub01@supernet.ab.ca
// -------------------------------------------------------

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Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 15:44:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu>
Subject: Re: Should I Pass This One Up?

Run young man!! run very fast very far ....and not in the direction of 
this Rover.  This is no "deal".  A sound screwing is what you were about 
to get.  

Russ W.
67 swb "The Pig"

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Date: 20 May 96 16:38:17 EDT
From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Noises

Floris writes re noises at the front of his lr, I note that you sign as 2a
ambulance, does the 109 have an oil cooler ? If so the pressure control valves
often vibrate, usually worse when the oil level is low, or when braking andf the
oil runs to the front of the sump.

 Regards Bill Leacock   Limey in exile.

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Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 15:55:09
From: IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILLIAM ADAMS)
Subject: British Bike Day and Moaning,+ other stuff

	To those poor souls who failed to make it to British Bike Day 
yesternoon, I'll give a short recap.
	Highlight: 1950 Vincent Black Shadow with 265 miles on the odometer and 
looking for all the world as though it had come off the line yesterday. Heart 
stopping. This was the fastest bike on earth in its time and still can whip most 
new ones: top speed 140 mph.
	Many many Nortons and BSAs with a strong showing by Triumph(4 awesome 
Hurricanes made it).
	Best T-shirt: LUCAS:Experience the Difference! We have.
	The 109 seemed to draw a great deal more attention than any single motorcycle. 
I had to spend a good deal of time giving the "Grand Tour" instead of sniffing 
motorcycle seats. I met two other Rover owners who, although are not on the list, 
promised to attend the Bowie British Car Day and the Virginia rally, so I'm sure 
I'll hook up with them again.
	Met another new Rover owner at the Waste Transfer Station as I was dropping 
off a dead dishwasher. It is a very popular place to meet other Roverheads, as I 
have met 
two others: 
a 110 owner 
(using it 
to haul 
yard waste) 
and an 88 
sIII owner. 
Anyway this 
lady was 
full of 
stories 
about her 
experiences 
overseas 
with not 
only 
Rovers, but 
a very cool 
FJ 
Landcruiser 
5 door 
Station 
Wagon 
Diesel. She 
was very 
excited to 
see another 
Rover and 
told me all 
about her 
new Baby, a 
109 S2A 
with a 6, 
although it 
seemed like 
a truck 
that needed 
a lot of 
work. It 
will be 
going north 
to her farm in Vermont, so all you up there get ready to greet a new pal.
	As to the moaning sound I would guess that the water pump bearings are 
shot. The moan comes on as the engine idles down and the drive belt unloads.
But what do I know.

Apologies for length, but it had to be said.

  
Bill Adams
3Dmentia computer animation
4016 Spruell Drive
Kensington, MD 20895
301-949-9475

'66 Land Rover S2A 109" Station Wagon Diesel  ...all there

------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 13:24:40 -0800
From: "Deanna D. Sitter" <lani@alaska.net>
Subject: nuts and bolts

I'm new to this net thing so I hope this works.  Here is some useful 
info regarding nuts and bolts.  You may have noticed that the whitworth 
bolts are graded by the letters S, T, and V (I haven't seen a V yet).  
Grade S has a min. tensile strength of 112,000 P.S.I. Grade T is 123,200 
and grade V is 145,600.  Ungraded fasteners are 62,720. This compares to 
S.A.E. grade 2 at 64,000, grade 5 at 120,000, grade 6 at 133,000 and 
grade 8 at 150,000.  the standard aircraft AN3 to AN20(the AN number 
refers to the diameter of the bolt in 1/16th's of an inch) series bolts 
have a minimum tensile strength of 125,000 p.s.i.  I use these as much 
as possible because they are available at decent prices here in Alaska 
where there are so many airplanes and they are corrosion resistant. Also 
they are avaiable in length that vary by 1/16th of an inch and have just 
the right amount of thread for each length.

As to tires, I've worked in a tire shop for quite a while, so here are 
my thoughts on tires for series Rovers.  While a 235/85r16 calls for a 
min. of a 6 inch rim I wouldn't hesitate to put them on the 5.5, in fact 
I have with good results.  Be careful with the new style 16 inch rover 
wheels.  They have a reversed drop center, which is to say that it is 
located closer to the back side of the rim.  This requires the tire to 
be installed from the back side of the rim.  If someone installs it on a 
conventional tire machine with the outside of the rim facing up the 
machine's lower dismounting shoe will hook in the drop center and bend 
the rim.  Have them mounted on a Mag/European style wheel machine.  
These are pretty common nowadays.  235/85r16's are about 32" tall which 
is the same as a 7.50-16.  The 235's are a little wider and much more 
available.  215/85r16's are about 30.5" tall and the same width as a 
7.50, they make great winter tires as they leave plenty of room for 
chain clearance. 225/75r16's are about 29" tall.  As for mud tires, I 
have been running 31x10.50-15 super swampers on the factory 6" rim.  The 
rim is a little narrow for this tire but provides good bead retention at 
low air pressure.  I had to adjust the steering stops a little and still 
get some inner fender rubing both front and back when I've got it 
crossed up hard.  Ideally I'd like a wider wheel for this but at the 
moment am unwilling to spend the money.  I usually ride on my 16's as my 
Rover is my daily driver and just bolt on the swampers when heading 
off-road.  The road manners are pretty good on the swampers.  I've heard 
that American Racing makes their AR23 style wheel in a 16x7 with the 
Rover 5x6.5 bolt pattern.  I don't know if it's designed for late or 
early model stuff.  As for a replacement for Range Rover 205r16's try 
225/75r16's, they're about the same height but wider.  The 205 is an 
awfully narrow tire for those 7" wheels.

Lastly, I'm putting a Ford 5.0 fuel injected engine in my Rover('73 88") 
this summer and would apreciate any input as I hate reinventing the 
wheel.

Tim Sitter

------------------------------
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From: "S. Vels" <svels@dk-online.dk>
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 23:27:51 +0000
Subject: Re: Valves?    (oh, and what is this engine thing?)

> Uneven running gradually increasing over a period of weeks to jumpy running.
> Lack of power.  (Trouble getting past 30 mph - got stopped by the police
> on Saturday on the M25 for going too slow!)

Sounds like when i blew a valve (ex on 4) except it was a matter of 
days, not weeks. Engine was really shaky.
 
> heavy deposits (symptoms of how I've been driving it??), and No.4 was as
> black as the ace of spades.  Checked sparks - all work.

Sounds familiar.
 
> Suspect valves?  I know sod-all about taking engines apart, but tonight,
> I'm going to take the rocker box off and have a look inside. Hopefully its
> just a stuck valve. If not it sounds like all the possibilities are quite
> serious (cylinder head off time).

If it's a stuck valve, you better take the (engine)head off and 
clean/grind the valves. If there is a lot of crud between the valve
and the seat it will probably burn anyway.
 
> Hints, tips, words of advice? What tools am I going to need?
> Feeler gauges, valve compressor, guess a pressure gauge for good luck.

All plugs fires?. If a gasket leaks to the outside it might develop a 
wheezeing or whissling sound. If it leaks between cylinders, you will 
have next to no power. If a scracper ring is gone you should consume 
oil much faster than before. If you can rule out everything but the valves 
do the following.

Take the head off. Removepush rods and number them 1 to 8 since the 
have to back in the same holes respectively. Remove the manifold
assembly. Make a spring  compression tool. 
Go to the tool market and get a vice thing (eng?) 
and file/saw/drill a U at the fixed end. Cheap and works. Compress 
spring and remove the spring cap and the two little bits. Repeat x7. 
Save the caps and bits. Check the valves. My no 4 looked like a 
rodent took a bite (how did the squirrel get from the blower into the 
engine). Problably metal fatigue according to my brother. Change at 
least all exhaust valves. Better change all 8 while your'e at it. 
If you have a sIII four pot - do not try to remove the seats. There 
aren't any. Get new guides with the parts order. Check with the new 
valves in the old guides for slack. Drive bad guides out with a 
hammer and a piece of iron. Guide driving tools are expensive, so you 
make your own. Cheap. Take an old valve and slide 3-4 washers down 
the stem. Slide an old guide on followed by the new guide. Use a good 
hammer and drive the sucker in. Now you must grind the valves against 
the seats that aren't there. Get a valve grinding kit. Coarse and 
fine paste and a stick with a rubber thing at the end. Use  coarse 
until both surfaces look fine the finish off with fine. Before 
assembly you must get all traces of grinding paste off. Use lots of 
tissue/toilet paper with petrol. Grinding paste will wear your engine 
real fast. Now put on new oil seals on top of the guides, put a 
little engine oil on the valves and assemble. Check the rocker gear. 
Wiggle all the rockers and check for slack. Too much slack will 
reduce the oil pressure between the shaft and the bush. Drive in new 
bushes if necessary. A new shaft is also good if you are in a 
spending mood. (Think of all the money you saved on tools). Put a new 
head gasket on (top up) and reinstall the head/push rods/rocker gear. 
Before you insert the push rods, check the tappets to see if these brass 
things are intact. Loosen the valve adjustment screws before fitting
the rocker gear. Adjust valves, crank a couple of times, put the 
cover on and start. You will probably need to adjust valves a couple 
of times in the near future.

Tools:
X-bar
Sockets
Toque wrench
Feeler guages
Vice thing
Grinding kit
Common tools

Parts:
Valves
Springs
Guides
Guide oil seals
Head gasket
3+ Rocker cover gaskets

Bushings
Shaft

Hints:

- GET A SHOP MANUAL AND/OR THE DIY GUIDE.
- One head bolt is thinner that the other (sIII). Get it back in it's 
  own hole.
- If head bolts are stuck, use a socket on a x-bar to loosen.
- Remove all water/oil/dirt from the holes in the block before you 
  insert the bolts. Hydraulic lock might crack your engine block. Not 
  funny.
- Make sure block/head surfaces areclean before reassembly.

good luck
sv/aurens

------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 19:39:45 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: No Subject

>    I know I told you we were coming to the rally & off road day in Maine
>....not clear on the  $ 5 you want it sent in now or at the rally??
>to you or to Miles Murphy??

Steve

Send it to Miles, by all means. I'm just looking to see if anyone wants to
caravan up.

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 20:15:36 -0400 (-0400)
From: rotero@ing.puc.cl (Rodrigo Otero)
Subject: Hi I just  got here

I just suscribed to LRO and I got a bunch of very interesting e-mails back.
At least this first time was fun to read.

I have a 1964 S2a 109 with a canvas top and a 1981 88 S3a Special (Santana,
manufactured in Spain).
The 109 has  a  beatiful hydraulic winch but I have  no idea how it works.
I have made it work but with very little strengh. Can some one give me  a
tip.

Thanks

Rodrigo Otero P.
Universidad Cat=F3lica de Chile
Departament of Bioprocess  and Chemical Ingeneering.
E-Mail rotero@ing.pu.cl

------------------------------
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From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 20:48:12 -0400
Subject: Re: No Subject

MIke;

     Hello!!
     We are planning to leave here Friday for Maine ..sometime in the AM most
likely around 8 or so..love company..thinking about taking both Rovers but
not sure as of yet..
Mike Smith sent me an e-mail...heres what he said..
"Pay at the gate...See you there!
the only thing I need yo know is how many in your party so the ammount of
food and parking will be correct.  Everyone attending the off road day must
RSVP, or you won't get in. you can pay the fee at the gate when you arrive"

as far as OVLR..will await my friends arrival from Long Island then head up
most likely between Noon and 1 pm, planning to go up thru utica to Rome the
way you suggested.
looks like around 340 total miles to me according to the map.let me know if
you want to meet up somewhere..
  Al Richer told me he will be  going straight North via rt 89 taking a ferry
across the river and then west to Ottawa..he will not be coming this way..
Rgds
Steve 

------------------------------
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From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 20:50:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Mechanical Brake Light Switch (LR PART NUMBERS)

Today's discussion on SIIA mechanical brake light switches has been lively.
Consulting the IIA Parts Manual (RTC9840CC) shows two different mechanical
switch setups. For non-assisted brakes from suffix "F" onwards the switch
mounts on a bracket which bolts to the bulkhead using the same bolts which
hold the spring anchors. The bracket replaces one spring anchor. (Early IIA
use one long anchor bracket. Saw it in half or replace with a later type
anchor for the clutch).
LR part numbers are:
569201 Switch protector plate and spring anchor
13H3735 Stop lamp switch
569058 Mounting bracket for stop lamp switch
569117 End Stop
BMK1903 Special locknut
560223 Special bolt
NT605061 Locknut (5/16 UNF)
The brake pedal and box have different part numbers also but it looks like
the setup should work with the earlier pedals with little or no modification.
I doubt you will find these parts in North America although RN could special
order. For oddball parts I've had good luck with Dingocroft in High Wycombe.
>From the US dial 011-44-1494-448367 or fax 011-44-1494-459964. Shipping for
such small parts shouldn't be too expensive.

The manual shows a completely different setup for assisted brakes on 6 cyl.
This has the brake switch mounted through the top plate of the brake pedal
box. Presumably this  is the setup used on NADA vehicles with assisted
brakes. The parts catalogs don't always show the NADA setups.

BTW a parts manual is an excellent investment.

David Cockey
Rochester MI

------------------------------
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From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 21:09:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Clutch problem (WEAR POINT)

Michel has a clutch problem and noticed that his clutch push rod is out of
adjustment:
>Is it possible that the pushrod can wear that much? Solutions? New pushrod?

On my low mileage (30k) II, there was noticable wear on the cross shaft that
the push rod bolts to, and in the corresponding holes in the pedal. I don't
know if it lead to problem you describe but it is worth a look. BTW according
to a parts manual later pedals had bosses added where the shaft bears which
may reduce wear. The SII's have only a single metal thickness as bearing
surface. I'm wondering if the wear is sufficient to lead to symptons of
clutches not releasing fully.

David Cockey
Rochester, MI

------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 21:41:47 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Moaning sound

Gadzooks, Floris, *get out NOW*!  And watch out for the pea soup!  109 IIa 
*ambulance* eh?  Probably the ghosts of all those that have died in the 
back.  A neighbor's house is haunted that way.

Seriously, though.  Is it clutch related?  Mine (though it's a III with the 
ferro-bestos throw-out bearing) made weird moanings in the cold just before 
it died.  (Nice warning though to get the necessary parts.)  And the 
three-way connector on the rear axle "hoots" when you release the brakes.  
Probably some kind of weird harmonics set up by coolant flow.  My brother 
had one that made funny noises.  Cheers

------------------------------
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From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com>
Subject: RE: Moaning sound.
Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 22:25:42 -0400
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I believe that you'll find the culprit is within the engine oil cooler =
plumbing/valving. I have an airportable which displays similar noises. A =
friend of mine with an ex-MOD 109 also - he replaced some bits in that =
system and the noise was eliminated.

cheers
Jim

----------
From: 	houniet@xs4all.nl[SMTP:houniet@xs4all.nl]
Sent: 	Sunday, May 19, 1996 8:42 PM
Subject: 	Re: Moaning sound.

Here's some more info:
I've been collecting some data on the moaning sound, but just as I
think that I've ruled out when it does and doesn't happen, it happens
when it shouldn't.
Anyway, usually it happens when:
I come to a standstill, that's what got me thinking it might be the
torsion bar settling, but it also happens standing absoloutly still,
and more often with the engine cold.
It does only happen with the engine running so my last bet is the
thermostat vibrating as it opens....???
I don't have servo assisted brakes, so it can't be that, i suppose it
could have something to do with the waterpump, but why would it moan
when having come to a standstill.
Maybe I accidently put holy water into my devil beset landy... That
would explain all the smoke ...
Maybe I can make a recording and post it ! (I'll first play it
backwards to check for demonic messages!)
Floris 'twilight zone' Houniet.
Ye old 109 SIIa Ambulance.

------ =_NextPart_000_01BB4696.213B6540

------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 23:19:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: LROI price for USA

On Sun, 19 May 1996, ROB MODICA wrote:

> I just received my renewal letter from Land Rover Owner dated 30 April and the
> one year price was 71 quid!!!  What gives?  Is that a club membership or a
> special for Canada?  Where did you get the 57 qiud price?

	Here is the LRO Shop announcement made during the time the mailing
	list was having some troubles.  I suggest that you call the 888
	number below and discuss it with them on the proper course of 
	action vis-a-vis your renewal.  The offer is good for all North 
	American subscribers.  Additional club member discounts are another
	matter entirely...  

	Rgds,

	Dixon

===================

With considerable input from Dixon Kenner at Ottawa Valley Land Rover club
we have been pressing LRO International to reduce the subscription price 
of LRO in North America.  As many of you know it was cheaper to buy it on 
the news stands.

I am delighted to advise that our efforts have paid off and a one year
subscription will now cost British Pounds 57, a reduction of BP20.

Still to be confirmed is how existing subscriptions will be treated.  We
believe it will be one additional copy for every three outstanding.  If 
you have just taken out a subscription you will receive 4 additional 
editions.

For those of you who have been asking about subscriptions we will be 
happy to assist you at 1-888-LRO-SHOP.

We will now begin the push for more coverage of North American events and
issues.  Let us know by e-mail what you would like to see in LRO
International.

With kind regards

LRO SHOP

------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 23:47:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Paul O'Donnell" <paulod@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Temperature Gauge on Disco

At 07:52 PM 5/19/96 -0700, you wrote:
>        I have noticed that my 3-week-old Disco's temperature guage never
>registers higher than then minimum....

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

There's a very good chance that the thermostat is malfunctioning. Take it in
to the dealer, I'm positve that the 3 year-42,000 mile warranty will take
care of it.

           Cheers, 
           Paul

------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 21:53:26 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Should I Pass This One Up?

At 11:29 AM 5/20/96 +0700, David C. Mackie wrote:

>Yesterday I visited a fellow selling a 1974 Series III SWB (chassis
>25903483B).

>  Unfortunately, the
>owner had recently experienced a broken tappet which prevents starting up
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>Other observations: both swivel balls have serious rust and pits associated
>with the rust.

>The owner is asking Canadian $9,000.

>Is this a good buy?

For an engine that may need total rebuilding & swivel ball s that needs
replacing, say goodbuy.  From your description it sounds like it should go
for less than half that.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com   <- NOTE NEW ADDRESS

Celebrating my tenth year on Usenet/Internet

------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 21:49:28 -0700
From: dholt@intergate.bc.ca (david holt)
Subject: Re: Should I Pass This One Up?

>Yesterday I visited a fellow selling a 1974 Series III SWB (chassis 
>25903483B).  The car had been extensively renovated with respect to engine, 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 26 lines)]
>// -------------------------------------------------------
>Sounds just a little steep even in Cdn. duneros. Sure the price
of our Land Rovers have gone up, but not that much. As it sits I
would offer him $3000.00 Cdn. If he doesn't like it there are
other vehicles out there.

Brian Holt
Maple Ridge, B.C., Canada
dholt@intergate.bc.ca

------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 22:11:39 -0700
From: dholt@intergate.bc.ca (david holt)
Subject: Re: Should I Pass This One Up?

>Yesterday I visited a fellow selling a 1974 Series III SWB (chassis 
>25903483B).  The car had been extensively renovated with respect to engine, 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 26 lines)]
>// -------------------------------------------------------
>Even in Cdn. funds this price is way out in left field. Offer
him or her $3000.00 Cdn. If they don't like that there are 
plenty more good vehicles out there which you will be much
happier with.

Brian Holt
Vancouver, B.C., Canada
dholt@intergate.bc.ca

------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 09:32:51 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Mechanical Brake Light Switch

>I just called RN, talked to Charlie. He said that the mechanical switch was
>only used on the dual master, servo brake system (i.e. sIII). The tower is
>different. But, maybe that was NA spec only or some such.

OK,Tim,chapter and verse:-)
Charlie may well be right about NADA cars,but certainly not the rest
of the world.The setup is listed in the S11A Workshop Manual,Part 2
Page 34-N.
The setup is this.There is a plunger switch,of the Normally Closed
persuasion,held with its axis parallel to the upper surface of the
footwell by a right angled bracket which is held in place by the
middle pair of bolts that secure the brake box and pedal assy.Inside
the cab.The switch,for want of a better description,is of the "panel
mounting" variety.That is to say that the relevant bit of the bracket
has a hole in it to take the switch,which is nutted fore and aft.
On the pedal itself,there is a hole alongside the bracket for the
pedal pull-off spring.In this hole (which may be threaded) is what
amounts to a round headed bolt with adjustment/securing screws.The
bolt makes contact with the plunger of the switch,keeping the latter
open.Obviously,when the pedal is depressed(arent we all?) the plunger
"makes" and operates the stop lights.
Switch replacement is a complete doddle,since it interferes with
nothing else,and only has to be re-adjusted on replacement.
It may well also be fitted to the S111,since most of the "improvements"
on that model were already in place on the later 11A's.
Hope this helps.
Cheers
Mike

------------------------------
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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Valves?    (oh, and what is this engine thing?)
Date: Tue, 21 May 96 10:58:33 BST

Thanks - I'll keep that message on file - I might need the valve info.
I still haven't managed to rule out the rockers/tappets working loose on
one of the valves. I'm in the process of acquiring tools - typically for the
job in hand! Also, I have those spark plugs with mil. covers (to mate with
the shielding on the HT cables), which makes them difficult to get out
without a long hollow spanner (job for today, get one of them!)
I'll check spark gaps whilst I'm at it, but this sounds unlikely.
I'm hoping it is the rocker screw that's worked too loose or too tight
(been talking this over with my father, he reckons its quite common, generally
 - especially if one of the locknuts hasn't been tightened properly).

Other possibilities: Although compression has been checked, it wasn't by
me, so I don't know if all 4 were checked. Also, because I couldn't get
the spark plugs out lastnight, I couldn't do the oil trick to test my rings.
Sounds unlikely, but I should check it whilst I'm at it.

Similarly, someone suggested yesterday (sorry, I don't have the email handy)
that I check the air hose to the carb. This is fine. I've done a patch job
to the small wear holes, but the lining is fine.

Richard

> > Suspect valves?  I know sod-all about taking engines apart, but tonight,
> > I'm going to take the rocker box off and have a look inside. Hopefully its
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> clean/grind the valves. If there is a lot of crud between the valve
> and the seat it will probably burn anyway.
etc

------------------------------
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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Engine woes
Date: Tue, 21 May 96 11:16:07 BST

> First thing is to get a good cylinder compression guage and record all the 
> readings.  You want all spark plugs out for this, so the engine will spin 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> If one or several are low and compression doesn't increase, it's sticking or 
> worn valves.  If two adjacenT ones are low, it's a blown head gasket.  Cheers

I haven't been able to discount mal-adjusted rockers/tappets (ie. which have
worked loose or tightened up).
Not having the right tools (yet), means I haven't been able to remove
the spark plugs yet. This is the job for tonight. I did buy a compression
gauge yesterday, though.

Richard

------------------------------
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  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked
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Useful commands for this are 'index lro-digest' which returns a list of
files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc.

World Wide Web Sites start at
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