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From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 17 May 96  7:43:17 EDT
Subject: Looking for a Holley rebuild kit

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 07:55:09 -0400
Subject: subscribe

subscribe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 May 96 08:44:04 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Swivel balls

The hardest part... were the Bearing distance... sleeve/ring that goes on the 
spindle. It has to be chissled off, and the new one "tapped" on. ..... and it 
took three hours to get the first one back on without damaging it. (I used a 
piece of aluminium tube, slightly larger i/d than the spindle. Alum. softer than
steel...)

Secret: PUt the sleeve/ ring in the oven at 450 or so, and put the halfshaft in 
the freezer. (I know the long one might not fit for all you apartment dwellers, 
but at least run it under some cold water or something. That should make for 
enough clearance, Clarence, to slide it right on, Ron. If your SO catches you in
the kitch you may have to just "make a new plan, Stan".

Had to buy a new inside left bearing b/c I mangled the old one. The new
bearing came with a new raceway, and didnt match the old one, 

Yep, I had that problem too, assumed it was because of questionable Atalntic 
British parts, but now I feel better. I just re-used the old bearings after 
knocking 'em out of the old swivel balls. I checked 'em for scoring and play and
they were about as goosd as the new ones. Saved the hassle of getting grease and
gear oil all over the kitchen trying to perform abovementioned technique.

I bought an impact wrench, too, which made things MUCH easier. (borrowed a
compressor) 

Ah, yes, the  joy of owning tools and not the means to run them...

(have
your parts supplier put in the railco bushings for you) 

Good idea. I paid 40 bucks at the machine shop to have 'em pressed in.

 got out
the fish scale (yes, I actually went and bought a fish scale), adjusted the
pull, 

The lowest I could get mine was about 18 pounds. Felt alright when i drove it 
though. 

Cheers
Dave B.
washington DC (Soon to be Arlington VA)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 May 96 08:57:40 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Shiny balls...

Steve Bradke wirtes:

>>     I will soon be replacing the swiel balls on my 68 lla and ...snip.... 
thought I would seek additional input from the list.
     will there be a great difference between Origional L-R Swivel balls and
Non-genuine ?

It's not the size of the balls, it's how you use 'em...
I hope not, any real difference would affect your steering geometry pretty "big 
time" If you get aftermarket then check 'em out against the old ones befor eyou 
put 'em on. I bought mine from AB, I got the kit to do the whole shebang, and it
was fine. The only problem was that the halfshaft bearing didn't have the same 
size inner race as the old one, so I had to reuse the old one (i did) or face 
having to take all the pressed on crap off of the halfshaft. Apparently from a 
recent posting this is a problem with new genuine parts as well, so its not 
really a problem, just means you have to do it right or not do it at all. 

>> I would like to hear from someone who has replaced swivel balls and what
you've used/experienced..

3 days, two for the first side and one for the second side. Don't forget to put 
the halfshafts back in :).

>>who has the higest quality Non-Genuine?

Probably BP, also try DAP.

>>     I tend to think using non-genuine will be fine, but would be looking for
a product which will last over the long haul as well.

Get gaiters, they will keep them from getting pitted by small rocks and stuff. 
Make sure the seam is on the bottom so that the gaiters can drain. Also I think 
if you first drain the axle and then the swivel balls, You can remove the whole 
assembly by: 
a: removing the tire
b: undoing the bolts that hold the swivel ball to the axle tube.
b1/2: cursing the day you bought this grimy piece of *%$&*#@
c: withdrawing the whole assembly, careful to support the halfshaft as it 
emerges so you don't clunk the end of it.
d: bringing the whole lot inside to a suitable workbench
e: cursing the day you were born
f: doing the same on the other side

>>your comments will be appreciated 

Have fun...

------------------------------

From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 08:40:03 -0500
Subject: galvanizing & electrical stuff

Ok, ok, I give. Putting bolts on the hinge nuts is Bad. It just *seemed*
like a good idea to keep zinc out of the threads if possible, bolts being
easiest. I suppost the zinc will seep between the bolt and threads due
to capillary action andthats where the weld would come from, kind of like
penetrating oil...

But I like the wood plug idea. You could just burn it or drill it out when
it out of the tank. My problem is not so much tapping, but cleaning the
original threads. The zinc, being soft, bites the tap and it may or may not
be alighned with the original threads, so its easy to screw up all the
threads...

...

I found my electrical problem. Thankfully, it was not the ignition switch
afterall, so that little baby can go back to RN. I took a closer look at the
voltage reg, pulling the cover off and giving the inside of the cover a 
good, hard sniff. Hmmm, definatly a trace of smoke in there. Taking a close
look at the cover under a strong light, yup, some soot in the corner. 

SO I detached the VR from the blukhead, and Lo! there was the culpret. The
A lead from the spade to the winding had burned in two. Half hour with a 
soldering iron and that was corrected - there appeared to be no other damage.

i put it all back together with the old ignition switch and I had power again,
and the beast ran ok. 

I am still having trouble with the lights, though, so I still have some
problems. The head and tail lights on the left side are dim. Brake lights
are dim, too. I need to look at the schematic again, maybe there was some
additional damage to the voltage reg.

Any other thoughts on the lights?

Thanks,

Tim
---\
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW 'algernon'

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 10:38:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: Series Tyre Talk

Okay, I've taken the plunge and ordered four 16-inch wheels for my '69
Series IIa 88". Now comes the big question: what to put on these wheels?
The chap at AB said the rim width is 5.5 inches and that 225s are the
widest he'd use. Any recommendations on size, manufacture, model, etc.
would be most appreciated.

Chris Stevens
Towson, MD USA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 07:45:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Roberts <psu00712@odin.cc.pdx.edu>
Subject: LRO subscription...

Dear Group,
	I seem to be missing out on all the good ads for Rover related 
equipment.  The American 4x4 press is woefully lacking in Rover 
exposure.  Can I get the ph# and addresses of American mags dealing 
directly with Land-Rovers?  Like LRO and I know of one other and forget 
the name (Aluminum Workhorse?).  Any others out there?
	Thanks!!!

Michael Roberts
Portland (Vernonia), Oregon

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 11:10:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: LRO subscription...

On Fri, 17 May 1996, Michael Roberts wrote:

> 	I seem to be missing out on all the good ads for Rover related 
> equipment.  The American 4x4 press is woefully lacking in Rover 
> exposure.  Can I get the ph# and addresses of American mags dealing 
> directly with Land-Rovers?  Like LRO and I know of one other and forget 
> the name (Aluminum Workhorse?).  Any others out there?

	There is Land Rover Owner, a British magazine at 57 quid a year
	(new price for North America, a 20BP drop), Land Rover World
	magazine at 40.80 quid a year.  These are the only two glossy,
	monthly magazines currently available.  Both are British.  There
	is not North American magazine devoted to Land Rovers.  The closest
	you will get are club newsletters (which vary in frequency etc.)

	Aluminium Workhorse is the quarterly (theoretically) newletter of
	the Land Rover Owners Association of America.  For a list of
	club newsletters, how often they are published, format etc.
	check out the clubs list in the FAQ at //www.ridgecrest.ca.us/OVLR/
	It lists all known clubs, estimated size, contacts, size, etc.

	Rgds,

------------------------------

From: John Putnam <jdputnam@pacifier.com>
Subject: RE: galvanizing & electrical stuff
Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 08:11:33 -0700
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

      Tim wrote,

My problem is not so much tapping, but cleaning the
original threads. The zinc, being soft, bites the tap and it may or may =
not
be alighned with the original threads, so its easy to screw up all the
threads...

I'm not a machinist but it sounds like your using the wrong type of tap. =
On a bottom tap,  the cutting threads start right at the tip of the tap. =
 Another type of tap has a smaller diameter shaft before the cutting =
threadsshaft that just fits into the hole to be tapped, aligning the tap =
with the hole.  Using this type of tap, starting slowly, and backing off =
the tap 1/2 turn for every 1 turn in you should have no problem.

John Putnam
'70 Series IIa
Beaverton, OR

------ =_NextPart_000_01BB43C8.A975A400

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 11:14:12 -0400
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Re: galvanizing & electrical stuff

harincar@internet.mdms.com wrote:
> I am still having trouble with the lights, though, so I still have some
> problems. The head and tail lights on the left side are dim. Brake lights
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
> Tim
> ---\

Tim,

Having just been there and done that, I can tell you the most likely culprit is poor 
grounding of the lights.  Most will have a separate ground lead but some may only ground 
through the little plate in the light socket which is held down by the screw.

It is easy to test:

Tape a wire from the socket terminal or ground wire to a GOOD ground and turn on.  If 
that is not the problem, it may be inside the bulb socket itself. (Poor contact to the 
postive lead at the bottom)

Good Luck

Nate Dunsmore
Rocking Horse Farm
Boring, MD 21020
dunsmo19@us.net

67 IIa  runnin' and built to stay that way (I hope)

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: activity series
Date: Fri, 17 May 96 16:24:04 BST

> Richard,
> I know O Si Al Fe Ca for the abundance of elements in the earths crust, but
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
> Land-
>   -Rover, Sunbeam Tiger and Mazda owner!

It was one we made up with school, I forget most of it, but the beginning
was definitely the most memorable. It was more phonetic, really:

K-NA-CA-  My Granny - At London Zoo Not Feeling Her P*B** Hair etc
(Knacker)

Shame I can't remember the rest, eh?  :-)

No, it was nothing imaginative.

More imaginative (but well known and not rude) rhymes:

Oh Be A good Girl and Kiss Me  (Stellar types)
China Owls Seldom Devour Clay Pigeons - They Just Creep Past Each Other
Making Preposterous Puns - Ha!
(Geological Epochs - Cambrian->Holocene,  English)

Richard

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Looking for a Holley rebuild kit
Date: Fri, 17 May 96 16:40:28 BST

> I've managed to score a used but in decent condition 2949AAS Holley, the 
> mythical 29 MPG carburetor as spoken of by Sandy Grice. However, I'm having 
> trouble finding a rebuild kit for it. Anybody got any good leads on a place to 

29 miles per the gallon??? Who, where, what???

Richard

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 10:39:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: Kinetic Suspension on the Web

Granville -- I don't know of any reference to it on my floatings around 
the web. I presume you saw the article in LRO a couple of months ago 
about it -- most impressive it was too!

A related thing I saw in Four Wheeler about a year ago was a company 
(maybe in Washington State) that was working on electronically adjustable 
shocks that would allow sway bar removal. Four wheeler tried them out on 
the company's test Suburban.

Cheers

John 

On Wed, 15 May 1996, Granville Pool wrote:

> I got to wondering if there was yet anything out there on the Web about
> Kinetic Suspension.  So I did an Alta Vista search.  I came up with one
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 48 lines)]
> Redwood Valley, CA
> '73 Series III 88 (the Snark)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 May 96 14:12:27 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: galvanizing & electrical stuff

>.>>not a machinist but it sounds like your using the wrong type of tap. =
On a bottom tap,  the cutting threads start right at the tip of the tap. =
 Another type of tap has a smaller diameter shaft before the cutting =
threadsshaft that just fits into the hole to be tapped, aligning the tap =
with the hole. 

thread chasers may be even better, they aren't sharp enough to make new threads 
but they are slightly undersized and therefore have less chance of cutting where
you don't want to cut. Don't know how they would do on zinc though..

Dave B.

------------------------------

From: "Dave McKain" <MCKAIN@cemr.wvu.edu>
Date:          Fri, 17 May 1996 15:15:04 EDT
Subject:       Re: Series Tyre Talk

Chris,
Use up to 7.50x16 or 235/85/r16. No problem with mine and I have 5 
inch wide rims. Just watch pressure so the tire doesn't wear 
unevenly.
Later,

David McKain
1959 SII SWB
1972 SIII SWB (parting)
1970 SIIA SWB (parting)
1969 SIIA SWB (rebuilding)
1963 SIIA SWB (parting)
mckain@cemr.wvu.edu
(304) 599-0120
Morgantown, WV
USA                     

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 15:22:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: 13th Annual OVLR Birthday Party.  General information...

	  Thirteenth Annual OVLR Birthday Party

Date:     June 21 - 23, 1996
Place:    Silver Lake -about sixty miles west-southwest of Ottawa
          (http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/OVLR/bp_dir.htm for directions)

Cost:     $15.00 per person over 12 years old
     	  $8.00 per child aged 6 through 12
     	  Children under 6 are free

Gen'l:    This is the same site as last year's event.  There is
          room to camp "inland" on the property.  The property is
          located about half a mile from the Silver Lake Provincial
          Park, so there is a more civilised campground available
          for those who prefer showers.  For the more degenerate,
          there is also a motel very close by with both rooms and
          cabins for rent (1/8 of a mile).  Apparently fishing can
          be done in the Lake.  Bring your own canoe.

Who: This event is open to all Land Rover enthusiasts.  However,
     noting a rise in attendance levels over the past few years, we
     require pre-registration for this event.  We must have
     accurate counts of people so preparations can be made.  For
     safety, if pets must accompant you to the event they must
     remain tied on a short leash at all times.

Registration Deadline:   Your registration must be received by
                         June 10th in order to guarantee entrance
                         to the OVLR Birthday Party.  Form can be found at
			 http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/OVLR/bp_preg.htm

Note:     If you wish to camp at the nearby provincial park please
          contact the Ontario Provincial Parks Authority for Silver
          Lake for more information and reservations at (613) 268-
          2000.  If the park is full, the next closest is Sharbot
          Lake Provincial Park at (613) 335-2814,  They also handle
          reservations for Silver Lake.  The Silver Lake Motel
          adjoins the Birthday Party site.  For reservations call
          the Silver Lake Motel & Cottages at (613) 268-2511

General Schedule: 

Friday:   Participants arrive  There are no organised activities
          and everyone looks after their own meals.  The
          registration desk will be open after 4pm.  It wil be
          located near the kitchen trailer.  Please be sure to sign
          in and pick up the event package.

Saturday: Breakfast is the participant's responsibility 
          Registration continues.  Daparture for the first off-road
          is at 10 am.  All vehicles participating must pass
          accepted safety standards.  First aid kits and fire
          extinguishers are recommended in each vehicle.  Helmets
          are requested to be worn by children.  Children are not
          permitted on the Heavy Off-road course.  Lunch (hotdogs
          and hamburgers) will be provided by OVLR.  The afternoon
          will consist of another off-road and other activities. 
          The light off-road is expected to take about two hours to
          complete.  Dinner will be provided by OVLR (roast pork,
          potato pan fries and salad)  The day will close with a
          social evening.  get to know fellow Rover enthusiasts.  

Sunday:   Breakfast (eggs and toast) provided by OVLR.  Auctioning
          of Land Rover accessories.  OVLR clothing will be
          available for sale throughout the weekend.  Contact
          Christine Rose (613) 256-1598 for special orders.

For more information, call Jason Dowell at (819) 595-4593 or Jerry
Dowell at (819) 827-2932, or email me at dkenner@emr.ca

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 15:26:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: 9th Annual Downeast Rally... General Information

This is the largest Land Rover gathering in North America. Held annually 
for the past eight years, the rally is the creation of Myles Murphy, an 
avid Land Rover enthusiast.

Friday: 
      Jeff Aronson will be your guide for Vinalhaven Island tour.

Saturday: 
      Off-road day

Sunday: 
      Owl's Head Transportation Museum. Well over 100 Rovers, clubs, 
      companies, LRNA, Rovers North, Airshow etc. Free admission to all 
      arriving in a Land Rover, Range Rover, Discovery, or Rover car.

Monday: 
      Sheep dog trials - or something like that.

Details: 
      Myles Murphy, RR 2, Box 23, Lincolnville, Maine, 04849 (207) 789-5303.

Fees: BBQ at off-road day $5 (Canadian $5 will do the trick) per person. 
      Saturday evening dinner - lobster or steak or fowl will cost around 
      $15-20 per person - it'll be a feast. 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 11:18:30 -0700
From: "John Y. Liu" <johnliu@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Shiny balls...

Steve Bradke wirtes:
>I will soon be replacing the swiel balls on my 68 lla and . . . <snip>. . . 
>thought I would seek additional input from the list.
>. . .  <snip>. . . will there be a great difference between Origional L-R

Swivel balls and
>Non-genuine ?

If expense is a big consideration (well, it always is, but you know what I
mean) you might check with BP.  They have a box of used swivel balls.  When
I was doing my swivels I rummaged through their box and saw some that were
not bad at all.  Translation: the chrome was nice and there were at most a
few light pits right where the rubber swivel ball seal sits when the front
wheels are turned dead ahead, and most of those were on the upper half of
the ball (i.e. the half that is not filled with 90-wt.)  That is about how
my swivel balls looked; I left them on and I have had zero leakage since
replacing seals, bushings, bearings, etc.  I think that a lot of leakage can
be traced to bad bushings or seals, and that if you take care of those then
some light pits in the balls could be OK. 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 11:18:33 -0700
From: "John Y. Liu" <johnliu@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Series Tyre Talk

At 10:38 AM 5/17/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Okay, I've taken the plunge and ordered four 16-inch wheels for my '69
>Series IIa 88". Now comes the big question: what to put on these wheels?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>widest he'd use. Any recommendations on size, manufacture, model, etc.
>would be most appreciated.
People on this list used to wax poetic over something called a Michelin XCL,
but I gather they are no longer available in the USA. How about a BFG Mud
Terrain: reasonably priced, has a nice open tread pattern with big lugs,
easy to find when replacement time comes, and is probably decent on the
street as well as in the soft stuff. 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 13:00:31 MST
From: ROB MODICA <rmodica@east.pima.edu>
Subject: Arizona Land Rover 4 sale

This just appeared in today's newspaper.  I know the owner and the 
vehicle.  It is a very solid, mechanically excellent, no rust, excellently
maintained 88.

The owner is selling because he is in the final stages of reconditioning 
a 66 109 2-dr.  This is a great LR.

        64 Land Rover 88.  8000lb winch, OD, tropical roof, 15" ATV 
wheels,luggage carrier, custom tire carrier. $6500   520-747-0822

If you want me to ask any specifics e-mail me direct. The vehicle is 
located in Tucson Arizona.

Rob Modica      '51 SI 80"      '60 SII 109" Safari
Tucson AZ       '94 Disco 5spd   "Casper"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 May 1996 15:34:32
From: IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILLIAM ADAMS)
Subject: How to get it from there to here?

I have been asked for advice on shipping agents in regards to bringing a 
Series vehicle from Scotland to the US (POE Baltimore). This is sort of liike 
asking Pee Wee Herman how to resolve the crisis in Bosnia: I have no clue.
So, oh wise Roverlist, tell me how it's done. 
Bill Adams
3Dmentia computer animation
4016 Spruell Drive
Kensington, MD 20895
301-949-9475

'66 Land Rover S2A 109" Station Wagon Diesel  ...all there

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 18:25:31 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Mud Tyres

At 12:39 PM 5/14/96 +0000, Jo=E3o Tom=E1s Parreira wrote:
>Hello fellow Rovers:

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>I would like to buy mud tyres to my 88 SIII. Could you give some advise on
>which type of tyre to buy? I would appreciate your help. Of course I also u=
se
>my Landy on-road.
>Happy Rovering
>Joao Parreira

I have BF Goodrich Mud Terrains, 265/75/16s on 7 inch steel Disco rims
(Available from British Pacific at about half the dealer cost).  I run
these on my 109.  I'm happy with them.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com   <- NOTE NEW ADDRESS

Celebrating my tenth year on Usenet/Internet

------------------------------

Date: 17 May 96 22:04:35 EDT
From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: subscribe

subscribe  LRO-digest

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 May 1996 02:16:24 GMT
From: Lloyd Purser <apurs@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Beach Land Rover & New club in North Carolina

Hello, 
     Has anyone out there heard of BEACH LAND ROVER, a dealership past or
present. I have a 1973 88" Series III which displays this logo, but with no
town or state. The Land Rover is currently in NC and was found in NC. I am
the 4th owner in this state, but I can't locate any information in NC on a
BEACH LR. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

     Also, I am trying to organize a club for LR's in NC to be called the
North Carolina Land Rover Owners Association. Out of 5 members so far, 4 of
us recently took 4 rovers to a British Car Show in Statesville, NC.  We want
to do more to include weekend excursions and trail rides in nearby National
Parks. If anyone is interested e-mail me direct-@-    apurs@worldnet.att.net

Thanks in advance.

Andy Purser
1973 SIII 88" Pickup 

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Expedition
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 17:52:48 -0700 (PDT)

It seemed a waste to own a landrover and only commute
 to work in the beast. So after considerable little thought I
decided to take the summer off, and trek off to Alaska.
Unfortunately I will miss the summer rally in Colorado, as
I will not be back until late August.

The Itinerary to date is as follows

Leave June 16 or so, travel  through the UP to Minnesota.
Drop the wife and daughter off as some mall, and go fishing
with an old friend.

Some time later in June I will be at the Big horn mountains in
Wyoming. 

>From there I am participation in an off-road Trialthion in
Colorado July 12 thu the 14.

>From there I head to Bellingham WA, drop off the trailer
at some friends in Gardner MT on the way, and catch the 
ferry to Skagway AK. We leave port on the 19 of July, and reach
Skagway on the 24 or so.  

>From there I am planing to head up to Ivnuk, pick up a rock
for another friend, then head to Denali Park.

The trip back will be down the Alaskan highway thru Banff, and
Glacier and then wander home to go back to work...

We are taking the D-90, so packing is a real challenge. I
have one of those roof top tents coming and am planning
to sew up a Nylon mesh loft for the inside of the D-90.
Since my daughter is only 6 years old, head room is not
a requirement.

If anyone is going to be in the Wyoming/Montana area June 20
thu July 10, let me know and we could do some trails together.
Also if any one know of some good trails in the Wyoming north
to Alaska area, let me know.

I am looking forward to a great trip, and if you see a Blue D-90
with Bikes on the front, tent on the roof, pulling a camper, 
honk a few times (I am a little slow sometimes) and I pull over
and say hello....

Russ Burns
94 D90
95 D-90 SW
91 R-Rover
Ps.
For those of you who attended the Colorado rally last year, My
friend Pat, his wife Joan, and three kids will not be able to
attend this year. Seems his wife is going to have twins!!!!!
In fact Pat is a little distraught that his family can not fit into
his Range Rover. If anyone knows of a real good deal on a D-110
let me know. (It will have to be a real good deal)

------------------------------

From: HMEdwards@aol.com
Date: Sat, 18 May 1996 01:05:15 -0400
Subject: Re: galvanizing & electrical stuff

Tim,

I had the same problems with my lights after having my engine out for a
rebuild.  It turned out to be corroded bullet connecters.  At all the
connections in the breakfast you had apart to get the engine out and the
front wings off, take a piece of fine or smaller grit  sand paper and polish
them up.  Once done, my lights were again on full beam.
Best of luck.

Harry Edwards
72 Series III
Las Vegas

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 May 1996 05:49:52 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: galvanizing & electrical stuff

Tim finds evidence of smoke, patches the hole so the smoke can't escape but
his lights are still dim.....

>Any other thoughts on the lights?

-

1. Not enough smoke left in the system to make the lights work.
2. You have the Lucas three-position switch. (Off-Dim-Flicker)
3. Bad grounds.

While 1 and 2 are probably valid, #3 is the most likely. Either that or uou
have a weak connection somewhere.

Cheers
Mike

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