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msgSender linesSubject
1 Inkornoink@aol.com 11Re: Subscribe (RE-)
2 "LRO Shop (North America18Contour Roof Racks (Disco)
3 "T.Stevenson" [gbfv08@ud22Re: I wonder, ...who'll stop the rain ?
4 PDoncaster@aol.com 49Swivel balls
5 harincar@internet.mdms.c28The Frame Logs
6 ecrover@midcoast.com (Mi22pos. neg. earth
7 "Christopher H. Dow" [do40Re: MPG with a DICO?
8 Stephen Brown [srbrown@s24RR Tire size
9 "LRO Shop (North America16Contoured Racks
10 rover@pinn.net (Alexande36Bulkhead Galvanizing and other thoughts
11 ASFCO@aol.com 15shock replacement Gabriel vs Rancho
12 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u47Re: pos. neg. earth


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From: Inkornoink@aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 07:53:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Subscribe (RE-)

What is going on...why have my mails from the list stopped?

Please re Subscribe full blown.  thanks

Inkornoink@aol.com

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Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 09:07:45 -0400
From: "LRO Shop (North America)" <lroshop@idirect.com>
Subject: Contour Roof Racks (Disco)

Safety Devices offer two racks for the Disco.  The Expedition as seen in
recent ads in LRO International and new to the range, the Highlander which
is a gutter mounted Camel Trophy look alike, very functional with lamp
brackets etc.  Both are available in zinc sprayed, black powder coated 16g X
1 1/4 inch ERW tubing.

British price is Expedition = 650.00 pounds and Highlander = 495.00 pound.
As a Disco owner my money is on the Highlander.

Rovers North receive a regular container from safety Devices so talk to Les
there.

Good luck.  I am hoping to pick up my Highlander from him in the summer.

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Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 16:16:35 +0100 (BST)
From: "T.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: I wonder, ...who'll stop the rain ?

>Alpine windows, gotta love 'em, but... how on earth does one replace the
rubber 
>weatherseal?

Last time I had to replace a broken side window, I took my new piece of
glass, the rubber seals and the Land Rover to my local Autoglass workshop.
They fitted it within 5 minutes, and didn't charge me a penny, but asked
instead for a donation to a local charity. I guess that with proper tools
and a lot of experience it's an easy job.

 Tom
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Thomas D.I. Stevenson                          gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
SNL Mussel Fouling Project
University Marine Biological Station,      Tel 01475 530581
Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland.       Fax 01475 530601
-----------------------------------------------------------------

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From: PDoncaster@aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 11:20:24 -0400
Subject: Swivel balls

Steve,

I just replaced the swivel balls on my freiend's SIII. It took four days. I
used genuine parts from RN. Yes they were expensive, but worth it. 

First, I called RN and told them what I was doing, they sent EVERYTHING I
would need.  New bolts!, "O" rings,  wafers, spacers, lock tabs, etc...  I
only had to order one other part, and that was due to a glitch with this
truck. Second, those guys know their stuff, and are willing to help. I must
have called them twice a day to ask miniscule questions "how do you get old
distance piece off and the new one on."  (and yes I have manuals, IIa, III,
Haynes, and DIY) Enough about RN

The hardest part of the operation I encountered were the Bearing distance
pieces. This is a little metal sleeve/ring that goes on the spindle. It has
to be chissled off, and the new one "tapped" on. It was a bitch! The spindles
were not perfect, and it took three hours to get the first one back on
without damaging it. (I used a piece of aluminium tube, slightly larger i/d
than the spindle. Alum. softer than steel...)

Had to buy a new inside left bearing b/c I mangled the old one. The new
bearing came with a new raceway, and didnt match the old one, so I had to get
the old one off the axle and the new one on. (actually bought two, why not do
both) That was another scurvy witch, but hopefully, you won't have to do her.
I bought an impact wrench, too, which made things MUCH easier. (borrowed a
compressor) 

The current issue of LROI (that month) had an article on swivle ball
replacement that was very helpful. It must have been the Feb or March issue.
Everything went back together like clockwork. It only took a day to put it
all back, once all the parts were corrected, cleaned, and painted.  

I made one mistake at the end, I forgot to put in the "wafers", (these are
little spacers that go between the swivel pin and the railco bushing) (have
your parts supplier put in the railco bushings for you) so the swivel balls
sat about 1mm too low, and didn't seat with the new seals, all the new oil
drained out on the floor! One call to Charlie fixed that. Wafers in, got out
the fish scale (yes, I actually went and bought a fish scale), adjusted the
pull, and life was great!

Peter Doncaster
New Orleans, USA
'64 IIA SF SW

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From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 11:41:44 -0500
Subject: The Frame Logs

Hi all,

I've put all the logs from my frame replacement into one big file. If anyone
wants a complete copy of the whole thing, or parts of it, let me know. Did
anyone get #17? That one might have died when the major was on holiday. Well,
if you want it, send me email.

I got a few photos, too (not very many), that I plan on scanning. I don't
have a web page, but if people think this is web material I can certianly
get it together.

But I have to get the thing running again first. I still haven't isolated
the electrical demon I conjured up monday. I got a new ignition switch, but
it hasn't helped. That doesn't mean the old switch wasn't fried, but that
there is still an additional problem. The power supply wire may have burned
someplace. Or the fuse block is toast. Something...

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW 'algernon'

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Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 13:15:25 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: pos. neg. earth

Dear all,
        Although I understand the agrument behind the pos. earth, neg.
earth corrsion stuff. I have to say that having delt with Rovers from many
parts of the UK and US, I have never seen a noticable increase or decrease
in corrosion on original pos. earth Rovers. In taking them apart for
restoration, the areas of corrosion and extent of that corrosion seems to
be the same if the vehicle is an untouched original, or something converted
to neg. earth long ago. Just an obversation.
        See ya.

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

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Date: Thu, 16 May 96 10:14:53 PDT
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: MPG with a DICO?

        I've got 732 miles on my '96 Disco, and with the expedition rack
fitted, I'm getting about 12 (vs. 14 [city] that the EPA claims).  I haven't
gone on the highway for more than local trips here and there, and I commute
on local city streets.  It's also likely that the reformulated gas here in
California is taking it's toll, too (my understanding is that the
reformulation involved binding more H20 into the molecule--Does anyone know
if that is correct?).  I have other friends who've experienced a not
insignificant drop in mileage, and I also noticed a drop in mileage in the
Toyota 4Runner that the Disco replaced.  
        So, if you don't live in California, and don't have the expedition
rack, you may see 14 in the city.  Also, I noticed a radical increase (from
~15mpg to ~18 mpg) in mileage in the 4Runner after about 2K miles and was
wondering if I could expect same with the Disco.
       
        Also, my Disco came with three defects:  jittery rear windows,
sticky cupholder, and Mr. Lucas struck the sensor that tells the cruise
control that the brake pedal is depressed before it left the factory--thus
rendering it (cruise control) inoperable.  

        What I tell friends who about the Disco:  If you want a defect-free,
fuel effecient, low-maintenance, soulless japanese car, buy one.  If you
want a car that's fun to drive, does well off road, seats 7, and has
'personality', buy a Disco.  I have no regrets.

C

'96 Disco
(long-time covetor of dad's '63 SII)

At 10:30 AM 5/15/96 PDT, you wrote:
>Looking at maybe purchasing a Discovery and was curious about what kind of 
>gas milage any owners out there get?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>gas milage any owners out there get?
>Scott

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Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 15:51:34 -0600
From: Stephen Brown <srbrown@sair020.energylan.sandia.gov>
Subject: RR Tire size

My 88 Rangerover needs new tires -- does anyone know of a suitable
alternative to the stock (expensive -- $120-$150 ea) Michelin 205/R16's?.

Any help is appreciated.

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 /==============\
 | `63  |  IIa  |          Stephen Brown
 |______|_______| 	   Geomechanics Department, MS-0751
 /___/^^^^^^\___\9	   Sandia National Laboratories
 |oo|(@)##(@)|oo|	   Albuquerque, New Mexico 87185
 |  | [####] |  |
 ======%%%%======	   email: srbrown@sandia.gov
 {*}={&&}====={*}
 {*}          {*}
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 17:33:45 -0400
From: "LRO Shop (North America)" <lroshop@idirect.com>
Subject: Contoured Racks

Two points to add on the subject.  Rovers North do not like e-mails.  They
get swamped so you need to call and speak to Les.

The Expedition Rack is too low for sun roofs but the highlander is available
in two versions for use with sun roofs and roof bars, or without.

Talk to Rovers North or call us at 1-888-LRO-SHOP.  We can fax you a picture.

Regards

Kevin Girling

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Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 22:03:12 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Bulkhead Galvanizing and other thoughts

I'm baaaccckkk!  Apparently, the Major, in his infinite wisdom, unsubscribed 
a whole bunch of folks just for grins....

Tim Harincar wrote:

>One tip from having a galvanized bulkhead.  Before the big dip, put bolts 
in >the captives for the door hinges.  Re-tapping is proving to be a real pain.

NNOOOOOO!  Don't do it unless you want a *REAL* pain.  Diesel Bob did just 
that and the bolts *welded* themselves in place.  Instead of dealing with 
soft zinc, he had to drill out the bolts.  And the drill broke.  And the tap 
broke.  And the broken tap removing tool broke.  Probably the best option 
would be to hammer/screw a suitable wood dowel in place - maybe screw it 
in with vise grips and cut off the excess - something that could be removed 
later.  The zinc is only about 750 F, so it won't burn out the wood for the 
length of time it's in the hot dip tank. 

And Dave Bobeck wrote:
>See if they can do a triple angle cut on the valves and seates.  Anyone 
care >to differ?

Nope.  That's the way to go.  You should buy the genuine exhaust valves from 
the usual suppliers, but buy the valve seats from the machine shop.  Sizes 
are generic, but the seats the shop sells will match up with the cutter 
device to set 'em into the head.  And the triple bevel or grind will improve 
the flow.

The reason you need stellite in the first place is that "modern" fuels are 
designed to leave residual oxygen in the exhaust stream, and this functions 
like an oxy-acetylene cutting torch - high-speed gas cutting, AKA valve 
recession.  Cheers

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From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 22:10:08 -0400
Subject: shock replacement Gabriel vs Rancho

     While I'm on a tear replacing things around here I thought I would again
seek the wisdom of others who have used either Gabriel or Rancho shocks as
replacements
  any differences/experiences?
Any reason to go with Heavy Duty? ( Warn winch 8274 mounted up front)
Again.....
 Thanks
Steve   72 S lll 88
           68 S lla 88

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: pos. neg. earth
Date: Fri, 17 May 96 9:45:45 BST

> Dear all,
>         Although I understand the agrument behind the pos. earth, neg.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> to neg. earth long ago. Just an obversation.
>         See ya.

Mike,

I haven't got observation to go on, but thinking it through theoretically,
I can't see why it should make a big difference.

Reasoning is as follows:

We have Aluminium & Iron. From my school stuff, I think Al is the more
electro-positive of the two, but not much difference.
(reactivity table starts: K,Na,Ca,Mg,Al,Zn,Fe,H,Pb,Hg - yes I know a dirty
rhyme too!!)

Imagine no potentials exist, where the Al and Fe touch, or are separated by
water, then corrosion will occur.
I remember the example of chipped galvanised iron being given:

Air                   /-----\
----------------------  H2O  --------------------
Zn Gal. layer         \     /
-------------------------------------------------
Iron

In this case, the H2O acts as a cell, the Iron/Zn contact closes the circuit.
Corrosion is *bad*.

This doesn't matter if the Zn or Iron are at +24 or -24V relative to some
unconnected electrics. It might be at 10000V positive of "real" earth or
the battery, it wouldn't make a darned bit of difference (10000V is an
extreme example, and corona discharge & tracking will of course occur).

The electrics and the battery are isolated. If air leakage of electrons
was to occur, 12V or 24V is just not enough to make it significant.
A few kilovolts, perhaps...

Richard Marsden (ex-Gurkha SIII FFR)

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