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msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | Inkornoink@aol.com | 11 | Re: Subscribe (RE-) |
2 | "LRO Shop (North America | 18 | Contour Roof Racks (Disco) |
3 | "T.Stevenson" [gbfv08@ud | 22 | Re: I wonder, ...who'll stop the rain ? |
4 | PDoncaster@aol.com | 49 | Swivel balls |
5 | harincar@internet.mdms.c | 28 | The Frame Logs |
6 | ecrover@midcoast.com (Mi | 22 | pos. neg. earth |
7 | "Christopher H. Dow" [do | 40 | Re: MPG with a DICO? |
8 | Stephen Brown [srbrown@s | 24 | RR Tire size |
9 | "LRO Shop (North America | 16 | Contoured Racks |
10 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 36 | Bulkhead Galvanizing and other thoughts |
11 | ASFCO@aol.com | 15 | shock replacement Gabriel vs Rancho |
12 | marsden@digicon-egr.co.u | 47 | Re: pos. neg. earth |
From: Inkornoink@aol.com Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 07:53:39 -0400 Subject: Re: Subscribe (RE-) What is going on...why have my mails from the list stopped? Please re Subscribe full blown. thanks Inkornoink@aol.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960517 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 09:07:45 -0400 From: "LRO Shop (North America)" <lroshop@idirect.com> Subject: Contour Roof Racks (Disco) Safety Devices offer two racks for the Disco. The Expedition as seen in recent ads in LRO International and new to the range, the Highlander which is a gutter mounted Camel Trophy look alike, very functional with lamp brackets etc. Both are available in zinc sprayed, black powder coated 16g X 1 1/4 inch ERW tubing. British price is Expedition = 650.00 pounds and Highlander = 495.00 pound. As a Disco owner my money is on the Highlander. Rovers North receive a regular container from safety Devices so talk to Les there. Good luck. I am hoping to pick up my Highlander from him in the summer. ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960517 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 16:16:35 +0100 (BST) From: "T.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk> Subject: Re: I wonder, ...who'll stop the rain ? >Alpine windows, gotta love 'em, but... how on earth does one replace the rubber >weatherseal? Last time I had to replace a broken side window, I took my new piece of glass, the rubber seals and the Land Rover to my local Autoglass workshop. They fitted it within 5 minutes, and didn't charge me a penny, but asked instead for a donation to a local charity. I guess that with proper tools and a lot of experience it's an easy job. Tom ----------------------------------------------------------------- Thomas D.I. Stevenson gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk SNL Mussel Fouling Project University Marine Biological Station, Tel 01475 530581 Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland. Fax 01475 530601 ----------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960517 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: PDoncaster@aol.com Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 11:20:24 -0400 Subject: Swivel balls Steve, I just replaced the swivel balls on my freiend's SIII. It took four days. I used genuine parts from RN. Yes they were expensive, but worth it. First, I called RN and told them what I was doing, they sent EVERYTHING I would need. New bolts!, "O" rings, wafers, spacers, lock tabs, etc... I only had to order one other part, and that was due to a glitch with this truck. Second, those guys know their stuff, and are willing to help. I must have called them twice a day to ask miniscule questions "how do you get old distance piece off and the new one on." (and yes I have manuals, IIa, III, Haynes, and DIY) Enough about RN The hardest part of the operation I encountered were the Bearing distance pieces. This is a little metal sleeve/ring that goes on the spindle. It has to be chissled off, and the new one "tapped" on. It was a bitch! The spindles were not perfect, and it took three hours to get the first one back on without damaging it. (I used a piece of aluminium tube, slightly larger i/d than the spindle. Alum. softer than steel...) Had to buy a new inside left bearing b/c I mangled the old one. The new bearing came with a new raceway, and didnt match the old one, so I had to get the old one off the axle and the new one on. (actually bought two, why not do both) That was another scurvy witch, but hopefully, you won't have to do her. I bought an impact wrench, too, which made things MUCH easier. (borrowed a compressor) The current issue of LROI (that month) had an article on swivle ball replacement that was very helpful. It must have been the Feb or March issue. Everything went back together like clockwork. It only took a day to put it all back, once all the parts were corrected, cleaned, and painted. I made one mistake at the end, I forgot to put in the "wafers", (these are little spacers that go between the swivel pin and the railco bushing) (have your parts supplier put in the railco bushings for you) so the swivel balls sat about 1mm too low, and didn't seat with the new seals, all the new oil drained out on the floor! One call to Charlie fixed that. Wafers in, got out the fish scale (yes, I actually went and bought a fish scale), adjusted the pull, and life was great! Peter Doncaster New Orleans, USA '64 IIA SF SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960517 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: harincar@internet.mdms.com Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 11:41:44 -0500 Subject: The Frame Logs Hi all, I've put all the logs from my frame replacement into one big file. If anyone wants a complete copy of the whole thing, or parts of it, let me know. Did anyone get #17? That one might have died when the major was on holiday. Well, if you want it, send me email. I got a few photos, too (not very many), that I plan on scanning. I don't have a web page, but if people think this is web material I can certianly get it together. But I have to get the thing running again first. I still haven't isolated the electrical demon I conjured up monday. I got a new ignition switch, but it hasn't helped. That doesn't mean the old switch wasn't fried, but that there is still an additional problem. The power supply wire may have burned someplace. Or the fuse block is toast. Something... Tim --- tim harincar harincar@mooregs.com '66 IIa 88 SW 'algernon' ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960517 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 13:15:25 -0500 From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith) Subject: pos. neg. earth Dear all, Although I understand the agrument behind the pos. earth, neg. earth corrsion stuff. I have to say that having delt with Rovers from many parts of the UK and US, I have never seen a noticable increase or decrease in corrosion on original pos. earth Rovers. In taking them apart for restoration, the areas of corrosion and extent of that corrosion seems to be the same if the vehicle is an untouched original, or something converted to neg. earth long ago. Just an obversation. See ya. From: Mike Smith East Coast Rover Co. 207.594.8086 21 Tolman Road *Rt. 90* 207.594.8120 fax Warren, Maine 04864 ecrover@midcoast.com Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More Series Coil Chassis Specialists ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960517 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 16 May 96 10:14:53 PDT From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org> Subject: Re: MPG with a DICO? I've got 732 miles on my '96 Disco, and with the expedition rack fitted, I'm getting about 12 (vs. 14 [city] that the EPA claims). I haven't gone on the highway for more than local trips here and there, and I commute on local city streets. It's also likely that the reformulated gas here in California is taking it's toll, too (my understanding is that the reformulation involved binding more H20 into the molecule--Does anyone know if that is correct?). I have other friends who've experienced a not insignificant drop in mileage, and I also noticed a drop in mileage in the Toyota 4Runner that the Disco replaced. So, if you don't live in California, and don't have the expedition rack, you may see 14 in the city. Also, I noticed a radical increase (from ~15mpg to ~18 mpg) in mileage in the 4Runner after about 2K miles and was wondering if I could expect same with the Disco. Also, my Disco came with three defects: jittery rear windows, sticky cupholder, and Mr. Lucas struck the sensor that tells the cruise control that the brake pedal is depressed before it left the factory--thus rendering it (cruise control) inoperable. What I tell friends who about the Disco: If you want a defect-free, fuel effecient, low-maintenance, soulless japanese car, buy one. If you want a car that's fun to drive, does well off road, seats 7, and has 'personality', buy a Disco. I have no regrets. C '96 Disco (long-time covetor of dad's '63 SII) At 10:30 AM 5/15/96 PDT, you wrote: >Looking at maybe purchasing a Discovery and was curious about what kind of >gas milage any owners out there get? [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] >gas milage any owners out there get? >Scott ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960517 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 15:51:34 -0600 From: Stephen Brown <srbrown@sair020.energylan.sandia.gov> Subject: RR Tire size My 88 Rangerover needs new tires -- does anyone know of a suitable alternative to the stock (expensive -- $120-$150 ea) Michelin 205/R16's?. Any help is appreciated. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ /==============\ | `63 | IIa | Stephen Brown |______|_______| Geomechanics Department, MS-0751 /___/^^^^^^\___\9 Sandia National Laboratories |oo|(@)##(@)|oo| Albuquerque, New Mexico 87185 | | [####] | | ======%%%%====== email: srbrown@sandia.gov {*}={&&}====={*} {*} {*} ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960517 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 17:33:45 -0400 From: "LRO Shop (North America)" <lroshop@idirect.com> Subject: Contoured Racks Two points to add on the subject. Rovers North do not like e-mails. They get swamped so you need to call and speak to Les. The Expedition Rack is too low for sun roofs but the highlander is available in two versions for use with sun roofs and roof bars, or without. Talk to Rovers North or call us at 1-888-LRO-SHOP. We can fax you a picture. Regards Kevin Girling ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960517 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 22:03:12 -0400 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Bulkhead Galvanizing and other thoughts I'm baaaccckkk! Apparently, the Major, in his infinite wisdom, unsubscribed a whole bunch of folks just for grins.... Tim Harincar wrote: >One tip from having a galvanized bulkhead. Before the big dip, put bolts in >the captives for the door hinges. Re-tapping is proving to be a real pain. NNOOOOOO! Don't do it unless you want a *REAL* pain. Diesel Bob did just that and the bolts *welded* themselves in place. Instead of dealing with soft zinc, he had to drill out the bolts. And the drill broke. And the tap broke. And the broken tap removing tool broke. Probably the best option would be to hammer/screw a suitable wood dowel in place - maybe screw it in with vise grips and cut off the excess - something that could be removed later. The zinc is only about 750 F, so it won't burn out the wood for the length of time it's in the hot dip tank. And Dave Bobeck wrote: >See if they can do a triple angle cut on the valves and seates. Anyone care >to differ? Nope. That's the way to go. You should buy the genuine exhaust valves from the usual suppliers, but buy the valve seats from the machine shop. Sizes are generic, but the seats the shop sells will match up with the cutter device to set 'em into the head. And the triple bevel or grind will improve the flow. The reason you need stellite in the first place is that "modern" fuels are designed to leave residual oxygen in the exhaust stream, and this functions like an oxy-acetylene cutting torch - high-speed gas cutting, AKA valve recession. Cheers ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960517 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ASFCO@aol.com Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 22:10:08 -0400 Subject: shock replacement Gabriel vs Rancho While I'm on a tear replacing things around here I thought I would again seek the wisdom of others who have used either Gabriel or Rancho shocks as replacements any differences/experiences? Any reason to go with Heavy Duty? ( Warn winch 8274 mounted up front) Again..... Thanks Steve 72 S lll 88 68 S lla 88 ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960517 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: pos. neg. earth Date: Fri, 17 May 96 9:45:45 BST > Dear all, > Although I understand the agrument behind the pos. earth, neg. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] > to neg. earth long ago. Just an obversation. > See ya. Mike, I haven't got observation to go on, but thinking it through theoretically, I can't see why it should make a big difference. Reasoning is as follows: We have Aluminium & Iron. From my school stuff, I think Al is the more electro-positive of the two, but not much difference. (reactivity table starts: K,Na,Ca,Mg,Al,Zn,Fe,H,Pb,Hg - yes I know a dirty rhyme too!!) Imagine no potentials exist, where the Al and Fe touch, or are separated by water, then corrosion will occur. I remember the example of chipped galvanised iron being given: Air /-----\ ---------------------- H2O -------------------- Zn Gal. layer \ / ------------------------------------------------- Iron In this case, the H2O acts as a cell, the Iron/Zn contact closes the circuit. Corrosion is *bad*. This doesn't matter if the Zn or Iron are at +24 or -24V relative to some unconnected electrics. It might be at 10000V positive of "real" earth or the battery, it wouldn't make a darned bit of difference (10000V is an extreme example, and corona discharge & tracking will of course occur). The electrics and the battery are isolated. If air leakage of electrons was to occur, 12V or 24V is just not enough to make it significant. A few kilovolts, perhaps... Richard Marsden (ex-Gurkha SIII FFR) ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960517 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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