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Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 08:58:37 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: unleaded

Dear All,
        George Szydlowski asks about unleaded heads. Yes George, you should
use the proper exhaust valves, and the unleaded exhaust valve seats. Your
machine shop will have ones on hand that they can install. Give them your
head, the new valves and they'll do the rest. This will protect your
investment.
        Any questions email me direct.
        See ya.

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

From: PDoncaster@aol.com
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 09:08:04 -0400
Subject: subscribe

subscribe lro-digest

------------------------------

From: PDoncaster@aol.com
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 09:08:56 -0400
Subject: get

get 051596

------------------------------

From: PDoncaster@aol.com
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 09:09:21 -0400
Subject: list

list

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 May 96 07:23:10 MDT
From: Prairie Dog Press <pdp@dogpress.com>
Subject: Defender 90 for sale

FOR SALE
Land Rover '90
VIN  SALDV2289RA939410 
Excellent condition, Red
Currently in the Sandia Mountains, east of Albuquerque, New Mexico 

Bimini top
Tonneau cover
Winch
Air Conditioning
Wrap-around bump bars
Rear lamp guards
Front mud guards
Soft top, and removable rear seat 
5-spoke wheels with locking nuts
4-bank, top mounted Hella fog lights
Side steps

Dealer maintained

39,500 miles

You can see it at http://www.dogpress.com/pdp/guy/guy.htm

Asking price $29,500

Any interest?

Regards, Guy

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com>
Date: Wed, 15 May 96 09:28:00 CDT

Eveyone keeps mentioning the contoured roof rack for the discovery.  Last 
night, I was reading LROI when suddenly it appear, an add for a company in 
the UK selling a very similar if not exact copy of the same rack.  It's in 
the May, 1996 issue on page 22.  They also have lots of goodies besides the 
rack including 4 point harnesses and fire extinguishers.  The company is 
called Safety Devices and their number is
#44 (0) 624624.  If anyone needs the address, please let me know. 
 Unfortunately, I don't have the ability to scan and post the picture, but 
if you rush out now, you may still find it at the newstand.  Good luck!

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767
dboehme@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com

BTW, the rack looks VERY cool (solid with 5 attachments per side to fix to 
the rain gutters) but is too low to allow for sun-roof owners.

------------------------------

From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 08:57:01 -0500
Subject: re: Bulkhead resto

One tip from having a galvanized bulkhead. Before the big dip, put
bolts in the captives for the door hinges. Re-tapping is proving to be a 
real pain. With bolts in, you could just crank them out and not have to
worry about cleaning zinc from threads...

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

From: Owen Sayers <osayers@POST.Almac.Co.UK>
Subject: RE: GM Diesel engine
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 15:14:30 +-100
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

>I am urgently looking for FULL specs on the General Motors 6.2 and 6.5 =
Liter
>V8 Diesel engines.

We are just about finished the installation of a 6.2 version of this =
engine to a 1985 90. A few problems in the fitting - but mostly related =
to the supplier of the engine and kit. I won't mention the name (though =
I should), but to any UK subscribers, it shares its name with a Suzuki =
model and ends in "urai". I was going to buy 3 more engines from 'em, =
but now I wouldn't even send a Hummer owner to them. 'Nuff said??
I'll sort out full specs for you Brian, and mail them on, but for anyone =
else whose interested, the general specs are, 160 BHP at about 1600 =
rpm(ish) and a stonking 295 lbFt of torque not much higher up the range =
than that. It's reckoned to return 26-31 mpg overall. When fitted to a =
Range Rover the performance is almost identical to V8 petrol - and =
perhaps better (LRW says so, anyway). Cost for conversion kit (I use the =
term loosely) is about =A33,300 UK inclusive of VAT (sales taxes).
Fitting is, as I said pretty easy, the V8 is shorter than the 2.5 diesel =
it replaced, but obviously wider, so expect to do some grinding on the =
footwell if yours isn't originally a V8. Engine mounts don't need moved, =
 use a 3.9 EFI throttle cable and tdi clutch. Flexible hoses for the =
exhaust let you modify downpipe and retain much of the standard exhaust =
from downpipe junction backward.
The engine is a peach - obviously designed by someone whose had to work =
on engines "in the field" - usually muddy too at that. Alternator sits =
next to the bonnet, Oil and water filler are above the V, at the front, =
injection pump likewise. Oil and water senders at the top to the rear of =
the V, oil filter sits vertically.

Road (and very serious off road) test results will follow by the weekend =
- if anyone wants 'em.

Owen Sayers
Central 4x4 Off Road Driving Centre
Scotland
------ =_NextPart_000_01BB4271.40F730E0

------------------------------

From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 09:57:50 -0500
Subject: re: Poor Tim...

No pity. *All* of my problems are a result of my own folly or a lack
of knowledge. Hopefully, the knowledge part is being corrected. After
all, I'm the one who should have walked away from this beast in the 
first place. No one put a gun to my head and made me buy and LR with a 
bad frame... :-)

Bill wrote...

>I hope he had'nt told all his friends that the truck was FINALLY done and
>that it was going to be trouble-free Rovering from now on.
>I've done that before and lived to regret it.

No, I wasn't so bold :-) I know now that a LR is *never* done, but either
its drivable or not.

My 20 (or actually 19) week plan originally included 3 weeks of shakedown
after I got it on the road. Unfortuantly, that got eaten in cold weather
and parts delays (best laid plans...). I don't think three times around
the block really qualifies as a proper shakedown.

The gathering for this coming weekend was designed for the purpose of
thanking those who provided assistance (time, tools, money) to getting it
done, and to celebrate the fact that both me and the LR are 30 (well,its
31 but not 'till July). And since the preparation for that shindig began
more than 6 weeks ago...

New ignition switch just arrived. BP says that LR raised the cost of the
switches *again*, so user cost will now be over $200. They don't stock the
positive earth IIa switch any longer. RN still has some in stock for $129,
but it sound like they are going to go up again as soon as they need to 
reorder. Maybe they bought a whole bunch...

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 May 96 07:47:51 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Hardened valves or seats

, is it better to get 
stellite exaust valves, or hardened seats, or both??? 

No in hand experience, but I've heard a lot of heresay:)
If I am correct then there is no point in getting one or the other. You must do 
both. Sandy Grice rebuilt his head with regular valves and can tell you what you
will need to do to keep it going on modern unleaded gas. What happens (in my dim
picture of engine physics) is that the regular valves get super hot because of 
lack of lubrication from the lead that is absent from the gas The valves end up 
stealing material from the head. (or something) This is called valve recession, 
and results in a worn valve seat and eventually can cause a head to crack. Best 
bet, get the head checked for cracks, and if its good have it rebuilt at a good 
machine shop. See if they can do a triple angle cut on the valves and seats. 
Anybody care to differ? 

Dave 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 May 96 11:01:54 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Bulkhead resto

Tim Sez...

>>One tip from having a galvanized bulkhead. Before the big dip, put
bolts in the captives for the door hinges. Re-tapping is proving to be a 
real pain. With bolts in, you could just crank them out and not have to
worry about cleaning zinc from threads...

on the contrary, I've heard of folks trying this very thing and then instead of 
using a tap to get out some extra zinc, they have to drill out the now welded in
bolt and then tap again anyway, so best bet is to use lots of lubricany with 
your tap and keep backing off, so that you don't break the tap. You can get 
drilling and tappng lubricant that is in a paste form so that it doesnt just run
off of the vertical surfaces.

YMMV.

Dave

------------------------------

From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com>
Subject: RE: land rover list status... 
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 13:25:26 -0400
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Thanks, Bill

cheers
Jim

PS - when are you going to join the BSROA?? We've got lotsa good events scheduled!

----------
From: 	William Caloccia[SMTP:caloccia@OpenMarket.com]
Sent: 	Tuesday, May 14, 1996 12:23 AM
Subject: 	land rover list status... 

Hi,
	Well, I've managed to restore most of the land-rover-owner list
of subscribers (99) and about a third of the lro-digest list of subscribers
(about 300 people), if you got this message directly, you have been replaced
on the appropriate list.

	Tomorrow, I'll send out another messages to the remaining lists,
and ask folks who did not get this message to re-subscribe.

	Cheers,
	-B

------ =_NextPart_000_01BB4262.147D3A00

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 10:36:11 -0700
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Kinetic Suspension on the Web

I got to wondering if there was yet anything out there on the Web about
Kinetic Suspension.  So I did an Alta Vista search.  I came up with one
reference only, in the July 1995 issue of on-line publication, Ascent
Technology Magazine (of Australia).  

URL:

    http://www.dist.gov.au/pubs/mags/ascent/july95/contents.html

What follows is the complete copy of the brief article which appeared on the
Ascent Web page:

Begin quote: 
_______________________________________________________________________________
A novel system of inter-connections between car wheels, said to give
"luxurycar smoothness" to four wheel drive vehicles is being developed by a
WA based company, Kinetic Ltd. 

The technology is expected to overcome the long-standing problem that
vehicles that work well off-road do not normally handle well on-road. 

The company claims 4WD vehicles fitted with Kinetic suspension out perform
vehicles with conventional suspension both on-road and off-road. 

The technology maintains near equal loading on each wheel during axle
articulation, and provides the firm and predictable handling of a sports
car, reducing body roll even though stabiliser bars are not fitted. 

Kinetic Ltd is at an advanced stage of prototype development and is
discussing licencing and joint venture arrangmeents with car makers and
susupension system suppliers around the world. 

Contact: 
Ian Croft (097) 55 3396 
_______________________________________________________________________________

End Quote.

Has anyone else found any more information about this suspension system?  If
you have, please let me know (and if you are reading this on the LRO list,
e-mail me directly as I was on that list in digest mode which is kaput).

Granville Pool
Redwood Valley, CA
'73 Series III 88 (the Snark)

------------------------------

From: scott.d.berry@bangate1.tek.com
Date: Wed, 15 May 96 10:30:51 PDT
Subject: MPG with a DICO?

Looking at maybe purchasing a Discovery and was curious about what kind of 
gas milage any owners out there get?

Scott

------------------------------

Date:         Wed, 15 May 96 13:42:12 LCL
From: Dennis Seiler <PA7508@UTKVM1.UTK.EDU>
Subject:      Re: MPG with a DICO?

My 'Dico' gets 17/hwy and 12/city...

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 13:45:48 -0400
Subject: replacing swivel balls

     I will soon be replacing the swiel balls on my 68 lla and although I
already have a couple opinions on this,  thought I would seek additional
input from the list.
     will there be a great difference between Origional L-R Swivel balls and
Non-genuine ?
 I would like to hear from someone who has replaced swivel balls and what
you've used/experienced..
who has the higest quality Non-Genuine?
     I tend to think using non-genuine will be fine, but would be looking for
a product which will last over the long haul as well.
your comments will be appreciated 
Thanks
Steve Bradke  72 S lll 88
                     68 S lla 88

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 11:43:35 -0700
From: Bruce.Curtis@sun.com (Bruce Curtis)
Subject: Re: MPG with a DICO?

> Looking at maybe purchasing a Discovery and was curious about what kind of 
> gas milage any owners out there get?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> gas milage any owners out there get?
> Scott
My '95 gets 14/18 (city/hwy), don't know about off-road as i have to drive
aways to get off-road. When driven real hard in the city (ie pedal to the
metal) i'ave gotten as low as 12, and once i averaged almost 80MPH on the
hwy for a tank and got 16MPG.

Bruce.
'95 Disco

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 21:15:48 +0200
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Positive ground

Only a month old, and already forgotten:

>Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 12:42:39 -0700
>From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
>>  Any comments?
>>Ron Franklin
>I think it's true that if you don't need the - ground for modern 
electronics that 
>+ ground will be less prone to rust.
>The reason for this seems rather simple.  With a + ground (e.g., frame) 
>Subject: Re: Galvanic action
electrons 
>will tend to be attracted to the iron counteracting the process of oxidation 
>(rust) (which is a loss of electrons).  I've not checked the half cell 
reaction 
>free energies, but (based on thermite energy) I'll wager that the + ground 
would 
>also tend to counteract the interaction between iron and aluminium (or more 
>accuratly rust and corundum).
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>Jeremy 
>------------------------------

Makes sense to me, but then what do I know...
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 19:51:03 -0500 (CDT)
From: zed@interaccess.com (mark)
Subject: LRO digest

Have I been accidentally unsubscribed? I have not received a digest since
28 April. . .

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 20:44:02
From: IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILLIAM ADAMS)
Subject: I wonder, ...who'll stop the rain ?

Alpine windows, gotta love 'em, but... how on earth does one replace the rubber 
weatherseal? I tried yesterday to put in a new one and let me tell you it was 
something like mud wrestling an eel. I'd push here and it would pop out there.
What with the soapy water and the locking strip and the recalcitrant rubber I must 
have been a pretty hilarious sight,  had anyone cared watch.
I gave up in frustration and put back the old rubber which is solidly mummified and 
puts up no fight.
I think this might be a four or six hand chore, but I'm ready for any quick 
fixes,shortcuts, or tricks of the trade that I am unaware of.
Yes, the new seal had been soaked in hot water to soften it.

Forever blowing bubbles.
Bill Adams
3Dmentia computer animation
4016 Spruell Drive
Kensington, MD 20895
301-949-9475

'66 Land Rover S2A 109" Station Wagon Diesel  ...all there

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 20:57:03
From: IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILLIAM ADAMS)
Subject: British Bike Day and Auto jumble

This Saturday is the annual British Bike Day at Butler's Orchard in 
Damascus,MD about 15 miles NW of Washington,DC. For anyone who has lusted in 
their hearts for a 1952 Vincent Black Shadow (like me), BSA, or Norton 
Commando Interstate, this is the place to be. 
In addition to the regular show of classic British iron, there is always an 
'unofficial' show in the parking area for anything British; motorcycle or 
otherwise. I'll certainly be taking the 109 up there to show it off.
There will also be a swap meet area for motorcycle parts and such and of 
course, plenty of food and drink.

For info and directions call Butler's at 301-972-3299

Bill Adams
3Dmentia computer animation
4016 Spruell Drive
Kensington, MD 20895
301-949-9475

'66 Land Rover S2A 109" Station Wagon Diesel  ...all there

------------------------------

From: "C. Paul Patsis" <cpaulp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Where's the major
Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 19:35:57 -0700

I have not received the lro digest for the past 6 days. Can anyone out =
there tell me what's up? Is there anything I can do at my end or is "the =
major" just dead?!!!

Paul Patsis
'95 D-90

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 08:33:50 +0200
From: bcotton@lia.co.za (Brian Cotton)
Subject: D90 Extra fuel tanks

Howdy folks,

I am busy designing an extra tank for the D90.
Here is South Africa we only have TDi D90's, the extra installation involves
moving the battery from under the seat, modifying the leads, an electric
fuel pump and some more piping.

The extra tank will have a 65 liter capacity.
The whole setup will cost +- R 1500 ( 1 US $ = R 4.50, 1 Pound Sterling =
+-R6.00)

The tank is made of 2 mm galvanised sheet with double bottom skin and
lockable front fender filler.

Cheers Brian
95 Amcor road, Centurion, 0157 South Africa TEL: +27 (0) 83 290 2085
                                            FAX: +27 (0) 12 315 3593

** Keep your nuts tight **    

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 09:42:26 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: replacing swivel balls

> I would like to hear from someone who has replaced swivel balls and what
>you've used/experienced..
Well,not replaced,but I have had them off.Dont try and fiddle about with
the axle/swivel ball nuts and bolts.Chop the buggers off and fit new ones,
otherwise you'll be there until the millenium.And that's bitter experience:-(
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 10:19:12 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: I wonder, ...who'll stop the rain ?

>I think this might be a four or six hand chore, but I'm ready for any quick
>fixes,shortcuts, or tricks of the trade that I am unaware of.
>Yes, the new seal had been soaked in hot water to soften it.

Bill,
I put side windows in my 88".Its a struggle.You need an inch more rubber
than will fit.Sounds daft,but basically you run the sealing rubber round
the empty hole,then cut an inch more.Stuff it in the 'ole.The joint should
be in the middle of either the top or bottom,doesnt matter much which.I found
the top easiest,dont ask me why.Offer up the glass,then start easing the rubber
over it using a blunt screwdriver or somesuch,getting an assistant to keep
a constant push on the glass,otherwise it keeps popping out.The glass,that is.
It doesnt need to be wet,really,the first side I did that way,but the other
was done dry,and if anything,was easier,and certainly more comfortable.
Working round it,rather like putting on a tyre,it will eventually go in and
stay there.Looks horrible at this stage.The sealing strip should be a
quarter of an inch longer than needed.There is a special tool which makes
life easier
when inserting this,but you can make one which is better.
Now this bit is from memory.I borrowed both the genuine tool,and the ragtime
one,from a guy who has spent many happy hours replacing broken windows in buses.
He swore by the ragtime one,and he was right.Take a bit of mild(cold rolled?)
steel,say 1" by 1/8" by,say 9" long.File a diamond shape on the end,about
1/4" wider than the sealing strip.Then pierce the diamond shape so you've
got a hollow one with the hollow just wide enough so that the strip will
go through it.Round off the edges.That's important.*all* the edges,inside
and out.Put the business end in
the vice,and pull it over 20-30 degrees.Now,if you lay the business end
flat on the bench,the handle will stick up towards you,and that's the way
it is used.Now,I'm left handed(like most geniuses:-)).So I took the tool
in my left hand,put the sealing strip through the centre of the tool,and
pushed the tool along the rubber.It opens the lips of the rubber as it
goes,and if you keep it as parallel as poss to the glass,it actually
*pushes* the sealing strip in,and stretches the rubber at the same time.
Start opposite the join in the rubber.You will have to change hands as you
go round,and feed the sealing strip into the tool with the other hand.
It is said you *can* do this with a blunt screwdriver,but frankly,having
done the job,I wouldnt like to try.
Hope this helps.
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 10:37:44 +0100
From: "M.G.Forster" <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: replacing swivel balls

> I would like to hear from someone who has replaced swivel balls and what
>you've used/experienced..

I have replaced both mine on the Series III 109 over the last couple of
years. I had some leather gaiters I bought for an earlier IIa and put them
on also.
I had no great problem doing the job, but would definitely agree with Mike
Rooth about using new nuts & bolts. The new ones were not genuine Land Rover
but they seem ok.
I have had problems with one of the oil seals but it has got better over the
last year.
It might also be an idea to replace the half-shaft bearings in the axle case.

M.G.Forster
Senior Technician
School of Computing
Staffordshire University
Leek Road
Stoke-on-Trent
ST4 2AZ
Tel: 01782 29 4255  http://arthur.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick

------------------------------

From: "Seymour, Gareth" <GSeymour@mp.sihe.ac.uk>
Subject: SERIES 1 SQUEAL
Date: Thu, 16 May 96 11:01:00 PDT

My 86" series 1 has developed a reasonably high pitched, continuos "squeal" 
on overrun/engine braking. It had a new clutch last summer and does not seem 
to be slipping and the squeal is absent on acceleration. One of the rear 
UJ's is on its way out which allows for the slight clunk when releasing the 
clutch so what else can cause strange noises on the overrun ???? The fan 
belt seems tight enough and its sounds just as bad in dry weather. When 
freewheeling down hill I don't think it could get much quieter and there 
does not seem to be anything making excessive noises.

Many thanks for any info.

Gareth

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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