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From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 07:50:12 -0400
Subject: Re: BBlist help me

     I subscribe to the real-time list and only see about < 10 messages / day
where a couple weeks ago it was more like 50+.
     I have also noticed by reading replies to messages that the origional
message was never delivered here , something does not seen right.
     Have also attempted to change servers from AOl to Another one and have
sent requests to subscribe to the list there but no luck.  (The requests to:
subscribe Land-Rover-Owner List)  I did get an acknowledgement but nothing
received for 4 days
What's up?
Rgds
Steve Bradke

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 07:50:11 -0400
Subject: Re: antique insurance/State Farm

Roger;
     
      As I understand it the State farm antique policy is only good and in
force while using the antique vehicle at rallies or parades this would
include traveling both to and fom, but not for any other purpose.
     Art least that's what my State Farm agent told me.
Rgds
Steve Bradke   

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 14:42:30 -0600 (CST)
From: "Jakob Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: RE: Axle casing crack

In message Tue, 30 Apr 96 16:26:59 EST,
James Carley <carley@manly.civeng.unsw.EDU.AU>  writes:

> The front differential casing of my 1985 110 has a small hairline
> crack in the vicinity of where the bulbous front cover of the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
> What can I do?  Someone told me to file it out a bit and fill with
> "DEVCON" an epoxy based metal filler.  Is the metal anything special
> with respect to welding (my preferred option structurally).

Grind a groove with a suitable tool, about 5 mm wide, 3 mm deep,
and a little bit longer than the crack (the crack might be longer than it
looks).

I dont know if what 110 diffs are made of. If cast iron, use an electrode
for cast iron purpose, and weld with as low amps as possible. Use an 1.25
mm. electrode.
If its made of steel weld, how ever you like, but again with low amps.

In both cases, preheat housing to about 50 deg. celsius before you weld
to prevent heat cracks along side of the welding. Weld 20 mm long seems at a
time, and let housing cool down a little bit inbetween.

This might help, but if the crack came because of extreme tension inside
material, it might reoccur. If it does, best thing to do, is changing
housing.

cheers
-----------------------------------
Stine Henriksen / Jakob Christensen
Borrowed account    -   73 sIII 88"
-----------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 09:04:18 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: LRO Shop Advertising

>If the LRO shop posted a note saying "Hi everyone, we now have copies of
>a guide to driving accross africa. Send email or hit this web page for
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>Comments?
>Tim

I agree.Apart from anything else,I'm hardly likely to order the damn book
from the U.S.A,since I'm in the U.K.Not on,IMO.
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 07:53:05 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Axle casing crack

James Carley writes:

> The front differential casing of my 1985 110 has a small hairline
> crack in the vicinity of where the bulbous front cover of the 
snip
Ooo. Bad news.

snip
> What can I do?  Someone told me to file it out a bit and fill with
> "DEVCON" an epoxy based metal filler. 
snip
I wouldn't even consider using something like that on an axle casing.
Welding is the only fix (short of replacement). You'll have to take 
it to a *good* shop, one that knows welding cast. Many places claim 
to, but will just slap on a weld bead and let it go.
It must be cleaned well (oil in a weld pool is a no-no) and preheated 
and postheated. If all this seems to imply that that the casing must be 
removed and stripped, you're right.
You'll fing shops that will tell you otherwise. Don't believe them. 
So, you may want to see if there is a used one from a breakers.
Now, what you could do is use the Devcon to *temporarily* stop the 
oil flow, or have someone run a weld bead on it in place. But only do 
that while you look for a replacement. You *will* need one if it 
isn't welded as described above.
Good luck.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 09:17:04 -0400
Subject: Re: broken looking glass question

Clayton,

I wouldn't recommend RTV type adhesive for the mirror, it cures to a soft
lump which will be "workable" when dry and which means it will move minutely
every time you adjust the mirror, then come off again when something nudges
it.

Epoxies do tend to cure to a rock like hardness, but most of the off the
shelf ones have pigments and colourants so that people who dont know how to
mix two substances together can see when it is "well mixed" and you will see
this colour (whatever it happens to be) from outside the car. Also, some take
a long time to set, which means sitting in the car with your arm up holding
it fast against the 'screen. Also, some glues may not bond well to the type
of plastic on the mirror part, while others may not work well on the glass.

Have a look in the NAPA or your local auto parts store and ask for "Rear-view
Mirror Adhesive" [if in West Virginia, ask for Mirrah-Gloo ;-) ] The stuff
exists. I have no idea who makes it or for what cars, but I have seen it
there.

Good Luck,

pat
93 (without a *screwed* mirror : ) 110

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 06:01:07 -0700
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: BBlist help me

I'm having the same problem, come to think of it, but it seems to be
intermittent.  As you can tell (if you get this message) I'm not on AOL so
it's not a problem with AOL.

Now that I've replied to this message I'll get 2-3 bounced messages listing
a couple of dozen recipients whose servers are unknown to the Net, or don't
have a mailbox.  Something is seriously wrong.

No cheers.
John
'95 Discovery
San Francisco, California

At 07:50 30.04.96 -0400, ASFCO@aol.com wrote:
>     I subscribe to the real-time list and only see about < 10 messages / day
>where a couple weeks ago it was more like 50+.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
>What's up?
>Rgds
>Steve Bradke

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: broken looking glass question
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 96 15:08:01 BST

> Epoxies do tend to cure to a rock like hardness, but most of the off the
> shelf ones have pigments and colourants so that people who dont know how to
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> it fast against the 'screen. Also, some glues may not bond well to the type
> of plastic on the mirror part, while others may not work well on the glass.

The little "handle" on Series windows came off on both my door windows.
The left one was reglued using clear quick-setting epoxy from Maplin (but
I've seen it in other places since). Quick, as in 10 minutes or so. Of course,
I took my hand off it thinking it would stay put after 30 seconds - as it
appeared to do. Came back an hour later, and I have a 1cm slug trail!!  :-)
As for the other "handle", the person who "removed" it, did it with such force
that it bounced around a bit and I still can't find it! I keep meaning to 
find some microscope slides to cut and glue together to make a new one.

As for how clear it is, it has yellowed *ever* so slightly, but I doubt you'd
notice this with a mirror.

Richard

------------------------------

From: 73363.427@CompuServe.COM
Date: 30 Apr 96 10:52:45 EDT
Subject: SerIII Bellhousing

I am rebuilding a SerIII trans/xfer that I pulled out of a 88 with a broken
frame. After removing 20+ years of grease, I discovered that the bellhousing had
a small crack in it from where it hit the ground when the frame broke. Does
anyone out there have a spare SerIII bellhousing that they would be willing to
sell? I could probably get the crack welded, but I would rather replace it if I
could do it cheaply.

  
     -------------------       
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     73363.427@Compuserve.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|      (404) 875-4537
   |     |   ###   |     |      
   |     | ####### |     |      1972 SerIII 88
   |_____|_#######_|_____|      1990 RangeRover
  [_______________________]
     EEEI           EEEI

Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 On 30-Apr-1996

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 30 Apr 96 10:41:40 EDT
Subject: Jim Dolan - are you out there?

Ever unearth my half-shafts? I'm going to be traveling and I'd like to have 
them in the toolkit.....

     Alan R.

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 09:59:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Axle casing crack

In response to: <...1985 110 has a small hairline
crack in the vicinity of where the bulbous front cover of the 
differential is joined (welded?) to the housing...  I found this small
weeping crack (~15 mm/ half inch long)...  Someone told me to file it out a
bit and fill with "DEVCON" an epoxy based metal filler.  Is the metal
anything special with respect to welding (my preferred option structurally).>

James,
It is a bit of a pain, but a look at the crack from the inside would help.
The crack may be longer on the inside and there may be other spider cracks
propagating away from the one evident on the outside. (You might look for a
"Dye-penetrant" crack finder. People who work on big sailboat rigging use it
a lot. Try some mates at the CYC in Sydney for leads on where to find it.
Much cheaper than Magnaflux and dooable on-site.)

I don't know what type of metal it is, but I do know to make doubly sure of
the type, hardness and whether or not it is heat-treated (annealed). I had to
have a cracked airplane landing gear welded once, and I learned how *not* to
do it. Someone who understands metal hardness (Rockwell tests, etc.) should
be able to repair it by weld to virtually the same strength as the
surrounding metal.

Bear in mind the loads the axle carries and transmits from one wheel to the
other before you put Devcon in there. It may stop the leak, but could get
"popped out" by any flex or a well placed rock hit. Either way, Devcon sounds
like a good, cheap, quick, Temporary solution. How does it bond with oil
residue in the crack?

best of luck,
pat.
93 110

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 08:37:06 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: off-roader article

At 02:56 PM 4/29/96 -0400, Jan Ben <jib@big.att.com> wrote:
>does anyone have a copy of the article on Rover v8 motors in the
>recent "off-road" ("4x4"?) magazine?

 Jan,

 There is a 4 page article in the May issue of Four Wheeler magazine
 called 'Give Rover a Stroke'.  It describes the 'Miller Kit', actually
 an exchange rebuild for about $6K that changes a 3.9 to a 5.0 liter
 Rover, delivering 288 ft-lb at 2,000 RPM instead of stock 220 ft-lb at
 3,250 RPM, a mere 30% improvement.

 This is probably not the article you are refering to, so I'm tossing
 it :)

 Cheers,

                         ______
 Michael Carradine       [__[__\==                    Rumpole of the Bay
 510-988-0900            [________]               Land-Rover Roughmobile
 cs@crl.com  __________.._(o)__.(o)____...o^^^  '65 IIA 2.235m (was 88")
 _______________________________________________________________________
 Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page:   http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: BBlist help me
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 96 15:03:53 BST

I only subscribed a week or so ago, and also get a few bounced messages.
UK-LRO is worst in that one of the messages lists 30 or so addresses.
I forwarded this particular message to the administrator address, but I
still get them.

Luckily I don't pay for email on this (my work) account.

Richard

> I'm having the same problem, come to think of it, but it seems to be

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 26 lines)]
> >Rgds
> >Steve Bradke

------------------------------

From: "John J. Tackley" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 12:22:49 -500
Subject: Prince of Darkness

Just pulled this off of the Mercedes Benz Digest and thought the LRO 
Digest would get a kick out of reading, or reading again......... 

                      Electrical Theory by Joseph Lucas

                     by Bob Gunforth in the MBCA StarDust

Positive ground depends upon proper circuit functioning, the
transmission of negative ions by retention of the visible spectral
manifestation known as "smoke". Smoke is the thing that makes
electrical circuits work; we know this to be true because every time
one lets the smoke out of the electrical system, it stops working. 
This can be verified repeatedly through empirical testing. When, for
example, the smoke escapes from an electrical component (i.e., say, a
Lucas voltage regulator), it will be observed that the component stops
working.  The function of the wire harness is to carry the smoke from
one device to another; when the wire harness "springs a leak", and
lets all the smoke out of the system, nothing works afterwards. 
Starter motors were frowned upon in British Automobiles for some time,
largely because they consume large quantities of smoke, requiring very
large wires.

It has been noted that Lucas components are possibly more prone to
electrical leakage than Bosch or generic Japanese electrics.  Experts
point out that this is because Lucas is British and all things British
leak.  British engines leak oil, shock absorbers and hydraulic forks
and disk brakes leak fluid, British tyres leak air and the British
defense establishment leaks secrets...so, naturally, British electrics
leak smoke.

>From the basic concept of electrical transmission of energy in the
form of smoke, a better understanding of the mysteries of electrical
components, especially those of Lucas manufacture, is gained by the
casual user.
<jtackley@dit2.state.va.us> "John J. Tackley, Richmond, VA"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 10:12:19 -0400
From: cmw@tiac.net (Christopher Weinbeck)
Subject: Sighting

Hi all.

Sunday, April 27 I experienced my first local sighting.
Heading up Tadmuck Road in Westford MA I was greeted by the sight of a dark
green 109" Ser. II Pickup bombing up the other side of the road.  I was too
busy pointing for the benefit of everyone else in the car to wave or honk!
Besides I was in a Toyota.  The driver appeared to be having WAY too much
fun, even for that great spring day.  -My guess is that it was Alan"I don't
care if I get a ticket" Richter.  I spent the rest of the day trying not to
be jealous.

Chris
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 Christopher Weinbeck       Office Logic, Inc.      V (508) 392-0288
   _______                  7 Littleton Road        F (508) 692-0897   
  |__][_[_\__               Westford, MA 01886            
  |___\_|_]__]  '69 109" RHDwOD 2.6 Dormobile       
    (o)    (o)   -I don't need bearings anymore, just an engine.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS)
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 12:57:06 -0500
Subject: re: Guide for a frame over

I disagree that a Workshop Manual is required to do a frame over on a   
IIa. Having nearly completed replacing my frame and bulkhead without one.   
I had the haynes manual, the Porter restoration guide, and the RN and BP   
catalogs. I didn't have to refer to any of them very much - I tried to   
dissassemble things and reassemble them in sequence. Things were very   
logical. Parts that needed to be replaced were replaced.

I can understand if you are going to rebuild the motor or gearbox, or   
maybe even the diffs, but if (like me) you're planning on doing that   
separate from the frame/suspension/body/etc then I'd say at $100 (or   
whatever the current cost is) the book is overkill. Better spent on new   
parts...

Tim
 ---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW  

------------------------------

Date: 30 Apr 96 14:41:48 EDT
From: Richard Brownlee <101360.3273@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Mud Tyres

On 28/4 Joao Parreira wrote:

>I would like to buy mud tyres to my 88 SIII. Could you give some advise on
>which type of tyre to buy? I would appreciate your help.

IMO you should go for BFG Mud Terrain or Trac Edge.  Trac Edge are the ones I
have experience with and they last a long long time.  This is because, although
they have paddles on the side of the tread for mud, they also have a harder more
road biased centre strip.  In the UK they are available in 15 and 16 inch sizes.

Regards and happy mudplugging

Richard

Surrey UK

77 Range Rover

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Apr 96 15:48:06 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Guide for a frame over

Tim H. writes...

I disagree that a Workshop Manual is required to do a frame over on a   
IIa. 

Yeah, but you took everything apart yourself. I had "hired" help, so only THEY 
know where everything goes...oops. :)

Dave "When all else fails read the instructions" B.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 11:43:15 -0700
From: "John Y. Liu" <johnliu@earthlink.net>
Subject: Diagnose Problem?

Fellow LRO's, here is a problem to diagnose.  Whilst driving to work this
morning on the freeway, suddenly the 109's engine began dying.  When I
disengaged the clutch and gave it more throttle the engine would pick up
again, but when the clutch was re-engaged and the engine was under load, the
revs would drop and I would lose power.  I nursed the truck off the freeway
and onto surface streets, where the engine would pretty much run when with
my foot down but would not idle.  I crawled to an alley (learning that, in
extremis, the starter will move the truck 25 feet from the intersection to
the alley) and observed the following: the engine would start after a fair
bit of cranking, and then would run OK as long as the throttle was held down
and the engine was being revved.  Once I lifted off the gas and let the
engine idle, it would idle OK for several seconds and then slowly die.  If
even a little choke was applied the engine needed more throttle to keep
running and would not idle at all.  After the engine died, if I waited 15
seconds I would see gas start to ooze out from the carburator (no specific
place, but somewhere in the middle of the carb body and also dripping from
the place where the choke control sits.)  Since the gas was dripping onto
the exhaust manifold and I was in a business suit I terminated attempts at
diagnosis and had the truck towed to the mechanics where she now sits.  
Presumably the mechanics will find the problem but I was curious what more
mechanically-inclined LROs would diagnose from the symptoms given.  More
information: the engine is a 2.25 petrol, Solex carb, recently tuned, and
the gas tank is half-full.

My first thought while on the freeway was poor fuel flow due to a clogged
fuel filter, but later I thought that was unlikely since the engine would
start and run.  My next thought was flooding due to a stuck float (although
banging on the carb body did not help, I did not bang too hard given the
difficulty of obtaining replacement Solex carbs), which sort of made sense
given the gas dripping from the carb, but I couldn't reconcile that with
being able to start the engine without too much fuss.   

What do you think?  If this had happened "in the field", what would you have
done?  I do carry lots of tools, fuel hose, clamps, etc. -- what could I
have improvised?

Incidentally, in several years of ownership this is the first time the old
truck has ever had to be towed.  So there is a first time for everything.

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 16:37:57 -0400
Subject: Just curious to see if... (non LR content)

I'm really curious to see if this message gets posted. I haven't seen a
couple of the messages I posted to the LRO list. Do they not get sent to the
address they originated from (in the interest of saving something) or am I
just missing something? 

I'm trying to determine if the problem is with my aol acc't, the aol host or
perhaps some other forwarder.

pat.
93  110

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Apr 96 17:00 SAT
From: Jose Trisotti <jtrisott@reuna.cl>
Subject: Atlanta LR Shopping

Next 13-16 May y went to Atlanta . Anybody know the name and address of LR
parts dealer ( new or used) , or library 

Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 17:23:04 PST
Subject: subscribe
From: rhodesia@juno.com (Chris R. Whitehead)

subscribe land-rover-owner rhodesia@juno.com

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 17:59:28 -0400
Subject: LR rust

Defender owners (esp. 110)- I have noticed bits of my LR starting to rust;
sooner than expected, especially given the amount of use the vehicle gets. It
just turned 9000 miles last week.

So far, this is where I have found rust:
1-The base of the interior roll bar is starting to show rust. I have yet to
scrape and prime the plates. I'm hesitant to take the bar out because it is
bolted through the roof to the external cage and I dont want to have to
reseal the outer mounting pads.
2-The steel capping riveted over the rear body and below the roofsides is
showing rust at weld marks and rust coloured seepage from rear edge. 
3-No steel parts have been primed below the paint, apparently. Anywhere it
has been lightly scuffed, rust is showing. I plan to start taking bits off
one by one to be galvanized. 
4-Front bumper bolts and winch mount bolt heads. All are starting to develop
a light powdery surface, which is still easily wiped off with a 3M tough,
scrubby sponge.
5-All the wheel nuts are now a nice chocolate brown/rust colour. I've thought
of getting a new set and having them galvanized but do not know what the
galvanization will do to the threads (will it allow the nut to back off or
give false torque readings?).

Is this chronic with other D110s? Mine is washed down over & under at least
once a week and garage kept. 

AHA! I think I just solved my problem. The LR should never be washed (to
minimize contact with H2O), and should be kept outdoors at all times (so that
the paint will fade and the rust weeps will *fit in* with the scheme). Come
to think of it, dad never washed his old 109-- he just drove faster when it
would rain... a *little* over 40mph ;-)

pat
93  110

------------------------------

From: kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 08:18:44 -0700
Subject: Re: broken looking glass question

I know, I know... I need a real Rover!! But until I can scrape
together the money for one of those I am stuck with this inferior
sled. Oh darn. I knew I risked getting one of these remarks posting
to the LRO list: good to see you didn't let me down.

On Apr 30,  1:49am, EAscensao@madinfo.tst.pt wrote:
> Subject: Re: broken looking glass question

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]

> Subject: Re: broken looking glass question
> None of this would happen if your Land Rover was a true one. Land
Rover Seies
> I, II and III have the mirror securely attached and without any
kind of glues
> .... try screws and bolts  :-)
> Ed
>-- End of excerpt from EAscensao@madinfo.tst.pt

-- 
Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 30 Apr 96 20:27:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Diagnose Problem?

Clogged fuel filter or a clogged jet - definitely. They'll push through enough 
gas to start, but running starves them. The fuel leaking from the Solex has me 
puzzled, but anything's possible - may well have been a leak caused by the 
vibration of the bum engine operation.

I've had this exact same thing happen to me, but it was carburetor 
icing...don't think your problem is similar.....<grin>

     ajr

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 20:09:24 -0400
From: "LRO Shop (North America)" <lroshop@idirect.com>
Subject: LRO SHOP E-MAILS

I think we owe a few people an apology.  We are new to the web and didn't
fully understand the way things are done.  Our web site will soon be
available with an on line catalogue and facilities for ordering.  We will
not be doing any more mailings in this way.

Sorry for the upset we have caused.

------------------------------

From: Inkornoink@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 20:40:56 -0400
Subject: Re: LR rust

In a message dated 96-04-30 19:58:29 EDT, you write:

>Defender owners (esp. 110)- I have noticed bits of my LR starting to rust;
>sooner than expected, especially given the amount of use the vehicle gets.
It
>just turned 9000 miles last week.

I assume that you own one of the 525 that were sold in North America....if so
LRNA should take care of your rust issues...have you heard otherwise?

Hank

1990 RRc (Moby)

------------------------------

From: GeorgeEsq@gnn.com
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 22:55:42
Subject: parts wanted,Farmington,Connecticut

I have a Series II, two prong gas cap, and need a Series III,three 

prong, will trade or buy, also have a 88 hardtop,with good glass, 
needs headliner, will trade or sell for b/o

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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 Output: lines 833 [content 499  forwarded 43 (cut  53) whitespace 230]


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