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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Gone Quiet (Land Rover Digest) (fwd)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 96 14:09:48 BST

I meant to send this posting to the worldwide lro list, and not the UK one

twice.

R.

> Following from reports that its gone all quiet, here's some queries to
> keep you all quiet (SIII LWB FFR 1972/3):
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 67 lines)]
> I do lack metalwork skills (and tools), but would like it to look neat
> and professional.
> Richard

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 09:25:47 -0400
Subject: SIIA 109 Diesel w/probs

Hello all,
A neighbor & friend with no net access just bought (yesterday) a '65 109 with
the oil burner in it. Unfortunately it seems to be a literal description of
the engine. He says it doesn't go over 40mph and blows lotsa blue smoke out
the back. I'm a petrol owner and know *very little* about diagnosing &
repairing diesels. My only guess was based on the adage- Blue smoke is oil,
Black smoke is fuel... So I'm guessing Valve seals/guides &/or piston rings
for the smoke. The speed problem is either rings are shot or head gasket is
blowing by, right? Do the diesels' head gaskets burn between #2 & #3 cyls?

I will print any responses for the guy (who I'm trying to get online and to
join LROA etc). He's just discovered the fact that by buying his first LR he
has joined a real group of enthusiasts.

Thanks to any who have ideas or have been there...

pat
93  D110

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Gone Quiet (Land Rover Digest) (fwd)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 96 14:50:43 BST

Second attempt (LRO-Lite ate my message" proclaims tomorrow morning's "Sun")

Richard

(Following message was posted to lro-uk by accident - I meant to send it
to this list - it has very little which is UK specific)

Following from reports that its gone all quiet, here's some queries to
keep you all quiet (SIII LWB FFR 1972/3):

1.) Uneven running. I understand this is a textbook symptom of a bad
carburettor/one that needs servicing/cleaning.
It is more noticeable when fuel is low - could it also be the pump that
is giving problems?
I also have reason to suspect the choke mechanism, but after looking at 
diagrams of the choke mechanism, this seems unlikely (I know the choke
warning circuit doesn't work, and it isn't the bulb).
Carburettors: Zenith is the standard, but Webber is a common replacement,
going by the adverts (also costs more). I have a Webber - is this a standard
MoD replacement?  Are Weber meant to be better, and if so, in what way?
(I know sod all about the things)

2.) I was hoping to do all sorts of things to the vehicle between buying it
and a trip to Scotland at the end of June. Most of these (eg. new seats)
look unlikely, although I have prioritised some:

(no particular order)

1.) Kenlowe fan (on order)

2.) Add a 12V supply + radio/casette (Noise? What noise? OH! JUST PLAY IT
A *BIT* LOUDER!)

3.) Soundproofing. There seem to be a whole range of soundproofing kits
on sale in the UK. Does anyone have any experiences they wish to share?
I was thinking of getting one of the vinyl ones (about L100) - water &
oil proofing sounds like a good idea, me thinks.

4.) Free-wheel hubs (possibly)

5.) Fuel (tanks). I have the twin- 10gallon mil jobs, but my left-hand
tank leaks, so I'm limited to 1 10 gallon tank on a lwb beastie!!
Eventually, I'd like two tanks with civvie fillers (to save me taking the
seats apart at the service stations). In the short term, I have two
options:   a.) Replace the leaking tank with a mil. tank (direct replacement).
                      Easy to do - piping,etc. is already in place.
           b.) Add a LWB tank, and pipe this to the change-over switch/valve.
               The leaky tank can then be removed at my leisure (replace with
               somekind of storage box??)
                      More of a faff in the short term.
(then civvie filler hoses can be added at a later date)

I'd prefer to do (b.) I think, although it means fitting new pipes, wiring,
and cutting a hole for the new filler. It does have the advantage of more
fuel capacity, and having the fillers on the same side of the vehicle
(have you tried filling up, with fillers on opposite sides???  :-) )
 
Any suggestions/comments anyone? I have a minimum of tools (decent
spanner set and growing hammer collection, but more specialist tools are
currently a bit lacking [but growing in number]. A flat working area is a
bit lacking, but I can use the road (I live on a cul-de-sac) for short
periods (and only block one house off!).
How easy is it to cut holes to add new filler hoses to mil. tanks?
How easy is it to cut holes for the civvie hoses?  Although eager,
I do lack metalwork skills (and tools), but would like it to look neat
and professional.

Richard

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 25 Apr 96  9:32:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Dobie-o-matic for Discovery

Re: .A Newfoundland.

>The only limitation upon its use being
>the length of time it can be left in the vehicle before it fills the thing up
>with drool.

It'll be a race between that and the owner's beer bottles....especially into 
the tire on the bonnet.

  aj"Woof, woof, ...slobber"r

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 10:49:20 -0400
From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Meters to measure RPM/Spec sheets

If all that is required to measure RPM is the ability to count frequency
than there are a couple of other meters in the Fluke 70 series that can do
the job for much less than the US$289 Model 78.  The Model 76 and the Model
79, both costing approximately US$195 can count frequency from 1Hz to
20Khz.  Of course, if you also want to measure temperature, by the time you
add the cost of the thermocouple module (US$69) for these meters, you might
just want to buy the 78 which includes it.

=46or those unable to access the WWW, I've attached some "spec sheets" from
=46luke's WWWsite <http://www.fluke.com>  for reference.  I'm curious to wha=
t
people who know better than I think of the usefulness of these things for a
Series owner.  (I'm in the market for a meter anyhow, so the extra $100 for
the auto features on the 78 might not be too steep.)  The prices were added
by me, based on quotes from my local NAPA store.  YMMV.

RoverOn! --JAB

***
The FLUKE 78 Automotive Multimeter with RPM, Dwell, Temp [NAPA price US$289]

Volts, amps, continuity and resistance
=46requency for "pulsed-DC" and AC frequency tests
Duty Cycle to verify operation of feedback carburetors, and other variable
duty cycle signals
Direct Reading Dwell for 3, 4, 5, 6 and 8-cylinder engines
Temperature in =B0F or =B0C up to 980=B0F or 980=B0C; thermocouple bead=
 probe and
adapter plug accessories
included
Min/Max Recording work with all meter functions
Precision Analog Bar Graph
RPM80 Inductive Pickup (optional accessory) for both conventional and
distributorless (DIS) ignitions)
10 Megohm Input Impedance
Sleep Mode
Protective Holster with Flex-Stand=81

Included with Your Fluke 78 Automotive Meter
=46luke 78 Automotive Meter
Holster with Flex-StandTM
9V Battery (installed)
TL75 Test Leads
AC70 Alligator Clips
80PK-1 Bead Thermocouple Probe
80AK Thermocouple Adapter
User's Manual
Quick Reference Guide

***
The Fluke 88 is a complete automotive diagnostic package. It offers
virtually everything you
need in an automotive multimeter: [NAPA price US$494]

Volts, ohms, amps, continuity and diode test
Milliseconds pulse width measurements
RPM measurements with inductive pickup
Min/Max/Avg recording
=46requency and duty cycle measurements
Lo Ohms function
Change AlertTM
SmoothingTM
Backlit display
Rugged, Hard-Shell Carrying Case
Deluxe Test Leads with interchangeable Test Probes and Wide Jaw Alligator Cl=
ips
Sleep mode
10 Megohm input impedance

Included with Your Fluke 88 Automotive Multimeter
=46luke 88 Automotive Multimeter
C81Y Protective Yellow Holster with Flex StandTM
9V Battery (Installed)
RPM80 Inductive Pickup for RPM measurements
C800 Rugged, Hard-Shell Carrying Case
User's Manual
Quick Reference Guide
TL24 Flexible Test Leads
TP20 Industrial Test Probes
AC85 Large Jaw Alligator Clips

***
Model 98 Automotive Scopemeter

The scope you already know how to use.
The Fluke 98 combines a two-channel lab scope, engine analyzer, flight
recorder and digital multimeter into one easy-to-use handheld tool designed
to mirror your diagnostic approach. The new Fluke 98 Automotive ScopeMeter
is the fastest, simplest way to capture waveforms and detect intermittent
problems.

Automated Sensor Tests
The 98 utilizes a simple keypad and menu system that uses familiar
automotive terms. You don't need to be scope jockey to operate this one.
Select the signal you wish to see and the 98 figures it out from there. The
98 can even track on changing signals, things like changes in RPM
automatically!!!

Engine Analyzer Functions
Not only does the 98 make measurements and display waveforms, it performs
many automated tests. The kind of tests that have previously been available
only on large console-type engine analyzers. Things like: Battery
Condition, Charging, Cranking, Relative Compression just to name a few.

Applications
Works on 1,2,3,4,5,6,8 cylinder cars, 2 or 4 stroke, diesel and gasoline
engines, DIS, conventional and coil-on-plug systems, and 6, 12 or 24V
electrical systems.

Warranty
3 years (ScopeMeter), 1 year (Accessories)
***

=3D=3D
 Jeffrey A. Berg          Purple Shark Media                 Rowayton, CT

                         jeff@purpleshark.com
                          =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D
               My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
          My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
                       Taste for the good life,
                      I can see it no other way.
                                --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 15:51:52 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: SIIA 109 Diesel w/probs

. Unfortunately it seems to be a literal description of
>the engine. He says it doesn't go over 40mph and blows lotsa blue smoke out
>the back.
? Do the diesels' head gaskets burn between #2 & #3 cyls?
Things to check first.Does it,in fact,use oil? If so,bearing in mind
my own experience you're probably right on most counts.Valve guides/oil seals/
rings etc.Equal possibility of the head gasket blowing,probably because a PO
didnt torque the head down *twice*,once cold,and again when warm.
Since the head has to come off whatever he'll need a new gasket in any case.
Bear in mind with this torqueing down thing,that the compression ratio is
23:1 in a good engine,and will still be pretty high even in a knackered one.
Mine was.
Head removal in the 2.25 diesel is easier than the 2.25 petrol,you havent
got the carb linkage etc to worry about.
It would be a good idea to get the injectors set up and cleaned while the
head is off,also to change the fuel filter.And fit a new by-pass hose while
he's at it as well,saves fiddling later.
As for speed,its maybe worth looking to see if someone has been tinkering
with the demand screw on the Distributor Pump.Not likely,but its worth a look,
because you can stop the throttle opening wide like that.There is a throttle
operated lever near the pump base,with a tickover adjustment screw and
another screw to limit opening.It *should* have a wired cover on it.
Welcome to the wonderful world of the Oily Wadder!!!
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 25 Apr 96 10:35:25 EDT
Subject: Re: SIIA 109 Diesel w/probs

>Hello all,
>A neighbor & friend with no net access just bought (yesterday) a '65 109 with
>the oil burner in it. Unfortunately it seems to be a literal description of
>the engine. He says it doesn't go over 40mph and blows lotsa blue smoke out
the back.

SOunds like an LR Diesel to me.

 I'm a petrol owner and know *very little* about diagnosing &
repairing diesels. My only guess was based on the adage- Blue smoke is oil,
Black smoke is fuel... So I'm guessing Valve seals/guides &/or piston rings
for the smoke. The speed problem is either rings are shot or head gasket is
blowing by, right? Do the diesels' head gaskets burn between #2 & #3 cyls?

Actually, I'd suggest a compression test before you or he do anything ele. Your 
problem could easily be pump timing or dirty injectors as easily as it could be 
bad valves - a compression test would tell cheaply. All of what you describe 
can also be attested to injector/pump misadjustment or problems.

These things are not rocket science. They're easy enough to maintain and set 
up, and they stay that way for a long time. 40MPH is not right for one of these 
engines.

Speaking as an ex-owner of one, i'd suggest starting cheaply. You do have a 
manual set, right?

Retime the injector pump - may be too far retarded. If it knocks, it's too far 
advanced.
Get the injectors serviced - it's a cheap enough job that any Diesel shop can 
handle if you give them the manual specs.
Make sure some sod hasn't been running home heating oil in it - get it some 
good Diesel.

I will print any responses for the guy (who I'm trying to get online and to
join LROA etc). He's just discovered the fact that by buying his first LR he
has joined a real group of enthusiasts.

Thanks to any who have ideas or have been there...

pat
93  D110
 

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 25 Apr 96 10:22:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Gone Quiet (Land Rover Digest) (fwd)

>1.) Uneven running. I understand this is a textbook symptom of a bad
>carburettor/one that needs servicing/cleaning.
>It is more noticeable when fuel is low - could it also be the pump that
>is giving problems?

Given the second half of this I'd be inclined to check the intake hose from the 
tank and the tank pickup itself. SOunds like somebody's screen may be clogging, 
or he tube is clogged up. Fuel pump can't pump enough t keep the pressure up.

>I also have reason to suspect the choke mechanism, but after looking at 
>diagrams of the choke mechanism, this seems unlikely (I know the choke
>warning circuit doesn't work, and it isn't the bulb).

Push the knob in - if the flapper on top is full-open, it ain't the choke.

>Carburettors: Zenith is the standard, but Webber is a common replacement,
>going by the adverts (also costs more). I have a Webber - is this a standard
>MoD replacement?  Are Weber meant to be better, and if so, in what way?
>(I know sod all about the things)

Webers supposedly give better gas mileage at the sacrifice of top-end power. I 
have one and I like it, but the power loss in the top-end is not pretty. Also, 
they're more prone to gumming up with debris than a Solex or Zenith.

>(no particular order)
>1.) Kenlowe fan (on order)

Good idea.

>2.) Add a 12V supply + radio/casette (Noise? What noise? OH! JUST PLAY IT
>A *BIT* LOUDER!)

I've got 50 watts of Alpine in my 109, and that is occasionally not 
enough.....8*) Don't expect to enjoy Vivaldi - stick with rock.

>3.) Soundproofing. There seem to be a whole range of soundproofing kits
>on sale in the UK. Does anyone have any experiences they wish to share?
>I was thinking of getting one of the vinyl ones (about L100) - water &
>oil proofing sounds like a good idea, me thinks.

I did my own with commercial auto carpet padding, but I'm in the US - no source 
for these things for me.

4.) Free-wheel hubs (possibly)

Dont start up that argument again....8*)

5.) Fuel (tanks). 

Put in the mil. tank for the present, then figure out what your needs are, then 
chop and hack.
Give yourself some time to figure out what your needs are before dropping a wad 
of cash on something you'll regret.

Re: Tools and such:

I'm well-equipped (and I've got a lot of tools too), so I'm perhaps not the one 
to comment. Perhaps you could get the metalwork done by a body shop, and then 
do the plumbing and installation yourself?

      AlanR.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 12:55:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: m8f@ornl.gov (M Scott Fugate)
Subject: Re: Bushings

Harry asks:

Q: Can anyone offer advice on removing old bushings from an '89RR? I'm in the
middle of installing poly-bushes.  ...I recall a thread concerning burning
out the rubber and hacksawing the sleeves. Any comments?

A:  1) Get a propane torch. 2) Heat the rubber part until it is well on fire
and oozing up and out like a little volcano.  3) By the way - do this
outside and don't lean over the flame - lots of black smoke.  4) Punch out
center sleeve.  4) With hacksaw, make two cuts through the outer sleeve - be
careful not to cut the radius arm! 5) Drive out outer sleeve with a punch or
chisel.  6) Repeat 5 more times.

Q:  Also, how important is it to not reuse nylock nuts? Wouldn't a little
extra torque and some locktite work just as well?

A:  I reused mine, and have yet to die in a fiery crash.

Q:  This is turning out to be a much bigger (and more expensive) job than
I'd anticipated...

A:  Yep,  I did the same bush retrofit to my RR in one long Saturday, but I
practiced up by rebushing a IIa - talk about a job!  Seems whatever
realistic estimate I make ALWAYS ends up 2 times greater in time and dollars. 

Good Luck,

Scott Fugate

------------------------------

Date: 25 Apr 96 13:03:53 EDT
From: "BENJAMIN G. NEWMAN" <71773.3457@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Returned mail: Host unknown (Name server: team.net: no data known)

--------------- Forwarded Message ---------------

------------------------------

Subject: Series Rover Overdrive (Fairly/Superwinch)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 11:45:30 -0700
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

	Last night I dropped my new O/D into my Rover.  When I pulled the
O/D out of the box, I looked at it and the back plate looked wrong.  At first
I thought someone had put the wrong part on.  Then I realized how screwed
up my overdrive really was.  Some of you may recall that I was having a hard
time pulling the layshaft out of the O/D.  What had happened is that the 
needle bearing on the layshaft exploded, majorly scoring the layshaft itself.
	
	The end of the layshaft is in the shape of a D with a groove around
the round part of the D.  On my O/D the rear plate had a cut out so that
when the layshaft spins, there is a ridge on the rear plate that engages
the groove on the layshaft.  I thought to myself that the groove and not would
prevent the layshaft from drifting out while the layshaft is spinning.  But
such a thing is a really crappy idea from a mechanical standpoint.  The
groove/ridge are not always matched up (the end of the layshaft being a D 
and not round), so it is possible for the layshaft to drift a bit.  When
this happens, the steel layshaft will strike the aluminum plate and score
the plate.

	When I was looking at the new O/D I realized what happened to my
old O/D. When the needle bearing exploded, the friction from the laygear on
the layshaft spun the layshaft.  The steel shaft wore a deep semicirle and
ridge into the back plate. 

	If I had stopped to think about it, I would have realized that my 
origional idea was wrong.  I had mistakenly thought that the laygear was
attached to the layshaft.  The laysaft would spin on needle bearing mounted
into the O/D case.  But such design would require a steel race to be pressed
into the aluminum case.  (Having a steel bearing rolling on aluminum would
be really stupid.)  Also, why waste energy spining the mass in the layshaft?
If had thought about it, the steel lay gear spins on needle bearings that
roll on the steel layshaft while the layshaft remains still.  

	Anyway I put the O/D in last night.  All went well taking the
back plate off the transferbox.  I then put in the O/D clutch sleeve and
mainshaft nut.  Now when you put the mainshaft nut on a standard (no O/D)
transferbox, the gears are all mated up, so putting it in gear and putting 
the parking brake on will allow you to torque down the mainshaft nut.  
With the O/D set up, the engine/gearbox is mechanically connected to the
driveline via the O/D (which you haven't installed yet).  So when you 
attempt to torque down the mainshaft nut (80 to 120 ft-lb), after about 30 or
40 ft-lb you start spinning the engine.  The solution to this is to
get a large wrench or pipe wrench and put it on the starter dog nut on the
front of the engine.  (tightening the mainshaft nut spins the engine in
the same direction that it runs, so such a force on the starter dog nut will
be trying to *tighten* the starter dog nut).  My pipe wrench was long
enough for the end to block on the front diff.  So, single handedly I was
able to put the necessary torque on the mainshaft nut.

	Of course such an idea at 12:30 am wasn't the first one I tried.
First I tried to use a nailset and proceeded to drop that into the trasfer
case.  <grumble><grumble><swear loudly>, drain the transfer box and pull the
bottom plate to get the nailset.  (luckily the transferbox was due for it's
9000 mile drain and refill anyway).

	With the new O/D in place I set out for a quick test drive.  The old
O/D had a really loud, annoying whine with it engaged.  This one is *quiet*
The loudest noise at 55mph is from the tyres!  I could bearly hear the whine.
Hopefully it will stay quiet.   (I know wishful thinking, but I can always 
hope).

	BTW, the old O/D lasted ~75,000 miles (4.5 years).  In the first half 
of it's life I kept it topped off and replaced the oil every 9000 miles.  In 
the last half, the oil was replaced regularly every 3000 miles when I changed
the engine oil.  Inclunding taxes and shipping, my new O/D (base price US$680
from BP) cost about $740.  So the O/D cost $1/100 miles or $0.01/mile over
it's lifetime.

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entries
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

From: houniet@xs4all.nl

------------------------------

Date: 25 Apr 96 16:29:34 EDT
From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Michelin Tyres

William Owen writes re the Michelin XPCtyre.  According to Mich's brochure the
XPC is primarily  snow tyre with good highway performance, and only acceptable
for tracks, mud and grass, sand etc. These are the opposite attributes to the
O/R range which is described as the ultimate off road tyre ensuring maximum
traction on the muddiest ground. Self cleaning and comforable with tough tread
and heavy sidewall. Ideal for military, proffessional and enthusiast use.

 Bill Leacock  Limey in exile.

------------------------------

From: Simon Barclay <sbar@jna.com.au>
Subject: Re: Removal of bolts?
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 96 07:48:00 EDT

> I am trying to remove the spring bolts at the very front of the truck. 
They
> seem to be held in by the rubber bush. I have tried everything I can think 

> of, greasing, pulling pushing. Does anyone have any suggestions?

I have successfully used a gear puller to remove these bolts.

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: TARC April Fool's Errand and I'm back
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 96 19:58:00 DST

For some reason the major seemed to have unsubscribed me and wouldn't reply 
to messages either. How many others have experienced trouble? Anyway with 
great relief I find that the digest as started to arrive again. I felt lost 
in the wilderness. Was it something I did? Something my mail server did? Can 
anyone shed any light on what happened?

Back to LR matters. On the recce for TARC's April Fool's Errand. I managed 
to drop Miss Golightly in a rather large hole full of water. I wasn't until 
foamy white stuff started to issue from the breathers on the way home that I 
realised she had ingested a lot of water. Still the oil pressure was OK and 
she was running. To cut a long story short she was drained and on the 
recommendation of LROs Al Richer and Sandy Grice flushed with a mix of oil 
and diesel fuel (OK so Al said kerosene but I had the diesel handy), run for 
twenty minutes with the fan (electric) disconnected and then drained again. 
She seems none the worse for wear and is currently running with 10w30 and 
was out for "the Errand" getting stuck, unstuck and hauling others in and 
out of trouble. Nobody  managed to complete the course but a good time was 
had by all and prizes were distributed "Camel Trophy" fashion for team 
spirit. The Range Rover coolbag and insulated mugs went to Glen and Marcie 
Massie, second prize, a Land Rover T Shirt went to Andy Philpot and third to 
Phil Rodriguez who is henceforth to be know as 500ft Phil. Thats how far his 
lightweight would go without getting stuck again.  The prize for true 
fortitude, a 1/24 Defender 90 Model, went to Andrew Thorpe's young son who 
bravely watched and didn't complain all day while the big boys played in the 
mud. Thanks to some warm days and lots of rain the mud was in places 
bottomless and perfectly sound looking parts of the road could swallow half 
a vehicle while some impassable looking water filled ruts actually had a 
firm bottom and could be driven easily. It caught more than a few off 
guard.. Thanks to all for coming, it makes the effort of organising worth 
while.

------------------------------

Date: 25 Apr 96 20:07:33 EDT
From: Richard Brownlee <101360.3273@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Bushings

If the bolts are seized inside the bush, you will have to cut the bolts (twice)
somehow. I use a small angle grinder when necessary, but a hacksaw will do if
you have a couple of days to spare, and want to develop muscles you never even
knew you had.

Burning the rubber is a horrible way to remove bushings.  I drill through the
rubber to remove the centre core, then lay the radius arm on the ground or in a
vice with the end supported, but with enough room for the bush to come out. Work
on one side of the bush only, and knock the outside edge of the bush into the
centre with a cold chisel or punch. (One side of the bush usually has more
prodruding than the other).  This will collapse the sleeve, and allow you to
knock it straight out.

If you do this to both sides, the bush will expand and be more difficult to
remove.

Hope this helps

Richard Brownlee

Surrey  UK

77 Range Rover

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 21:03:23 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca>
Subject: Subscribe

Subscribe LRO

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 23:35:19 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Vapor ware

WRT the thread on vapor lock one of the shrouds is beneficial, the other is 
not.  The heat shield around the side/rear of the 2.25 serves only to keep 
the driver's feet cooler.  (Personally, I think that exhaust manifolds on 
the left had side of virtually every British four banger is revenge on us 
colonials for the Revolution.)  This heat shield *will* crack your exhaust 
manifold.  However, the metal shield on the front of the engine off the 
rad/fan shroud aims the flow of cooling air back along the engine.  In 24 
years, I've only had one case of vapor lock...and that was after a three 
hour summertime interstate run, slowing down for several miles of 5 mph road 
construction.  Cheers
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 23:35:15 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Bushed

>P.S. Putting bushings in a Series frame should be a special task of the 
>Camel Trophy, in my opinion.

How about four seconds?  That's just for refitting them, though.  I agree, 
bushings area a major pain in the arse.  Tried the air impact wrench, 
synthetic penetrating oil, even a 6' breaker bar.  Nada.  And this was a
bolt installed with anti-seize five years ago.  Eventually used a thin
cutoff wheel and then *burned* that sucka out.

To refit, I welded a pointed .401 shank tool to a socket about the same size 
as the bushing.  Slathered everything with anti-seize and refitted the 
bushing in four seconds.  Cheers
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 23:35:24 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Gearboxes

Two folks, Chris Witzgall and Michael Roberts, wrote me with gearbox 
questions.  For several days, I've been reposting a reply, but they've all 
been bounced.  Anyway, Robert Davis (Chesapeake, VA) has several IIa/III 
hybrid units for sale.  IIa bellhousing and clutch, III synchros.  Call him 
at 804-421-3504.  Cheers

PS Still getting *alternating* digests.
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 21:11:24 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@mail.CandW.lc>
Subject: Re: fresh water supply

Nice as it can be doing research in the coastal zone, and wavesailing when the 
wind is up, salt is really a major headache when you are doing any of this stuff 
away from a supply of fresh water. When diving or sailing in remote areas I need 
to rinse myself, cameras and other instruments, dive gear etc before putting 
anything in the truck. At the moment I use a 1 gallon hand-pumped sprayer that 
is very efficient, but I would like to go a step further. The rear wheel arches 
of the 90 have loads of space, and I would like to fit a (5 gal?)water tank 
under there with an electric pump and a hose output. A windscreen washer pump 
would be sufficient. Has anyone done anything similar? 

As a goose-bumper for those of you who live on the coast, last week after a dive 
with people from the Fisheries Department I watched them load their wet gear in 
the back of their government vehicle, and then drive off wearing their 
seawater-saturated wetsuits! In this humid climate every drop of seawater 
remains liquid until it finally breaks through anything corrodable and hits the 
ground. They had some rubbishy Daihnasty so all I can say is TGIARB.

Allan
300 Tdi 90
St. Lucia
West Indies

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 25 Apr 96 16:11:25 MST
Subject: What is your favorite spark plug?

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486

I am needing to change plugs (and probably wires) on all my rigs. Well,
at least the ones that are running and liscenced. What plugs do you
prefer (brand and number) for:

  1. '87 Range Rover

  2. '70 Land Rover 109.

The 109 seems to run hot all the time. Always near the top of the
"normal" range, just below the red line. Can a different heat range
correct this? What is supposed to be in it? Right now, it has Champion
N9Y in it.

Thanks a bunch! Dave...

#=======#         _________         "What lies behind us and what lies
|__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___    before us are tiny matters compared
| _|  |   |_ |}  \__/-\_|__/-\_|}  to what lies within us."
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                     Ralph Waldo Emerson

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 09:11:11 +0200
From: Christophe Girardey <girardey@montrouge.ts.slb.com>
Subject: Scale Models of LR/RR/Disco

Hello everyone !

Scale models are one of my hobbies and I'am looking for some 
kits of LR/RR/Dicso models either statics or radio controlled.
My favourite scales are 1/24 for statics and 1/8 or 1/10 for 
R/C. Does anyone have any information about manufacturers, 
vendors, etc...?

Thanks in advance for the input.
-- 
Christophe GIRARDEY ( Le Mée - France )
'92 Discovery with 200 TDi engine
Software Developper (Free-lance)
Internet   : girardey@montrouge.ts.slb.com
Compuserve : 100600.2265@compuserve.com

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Gone Quiet (Land Rover Digest) (fwd)
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 96 9:54:56 BST

> About the fuel tanks, I've just replaced the flintstone seats in my 
> SIIa ambulance with RR seats. (Got them for free, smelly and wet but 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> for a drop of petrol.
> Floris Ta Ti Ta da Houniet (holland)

Yep, I'm wanting to put high-back seats (and proper seatbelts) in the front
at some point - hence the need to put civvie fillers in. In the short term
though, more fuel capacity would be nice!

Richard

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 02:56:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Roberts <psu00712@odin.cc.pdx.edu>
Subject: Cam shaft gear drives

Dear LRO's,

	Do I remember correctly seeing in this list somewhere that a UK 
company makes a gear drive for the 2.25L petrol engine?  Does anyone 
recall how much it was (is)?  Does Koenig still make pto winches for the 
Land-Rover?  Is there a better winch over another, and where can I 
contact them?
	Sightings... Portland seems to be going thru a 70's revival.  
Saturday Night Fever is everywhere!  I think that Portland is the Disco 
capital of the northwest.  I saw a SII 109" 3 dr hardtop in several 
shades of green.  Had an intake snorkel.  Also saw a very nice blue D90 
on the sunset highway.  I have noticed them coming out of the woodwork 
since Michael Slade came up to visit me in his pastel green LWB SW.  I 
see regularly a red 88" hardtop downtown when I am at work (nights).  
Near the same area I work is the dealer (Don Rassmusson) and I go and 
drool occasionly thru the wrought iron fence bars in the middle of the 
night while driving my Freightliner FL70 all-wheel-drive 6-yd dump 
truck.  Sometimes it is nice to have 18 fwd and 4 rev gears and 12" of 
ground clearance :-)  .  Unfortunately, the bosses frown on off-roading 
with city owned vehicles :-(  .

Michael Roberts
Portland, Oregon

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 11:16:18 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Cam shaft gear drives

>Dear LRO's,
>        Do I remember correctly seeing in this list somewhere that a UK
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>company makes a gear drive for the 2.25L petrol engine?  Does anyone
>recall how much it was (is)?
If you mean timing gear drive,yes,there is.
Its Zeus Design Patents
    8 Devon Units,
    Budlake Rd,
    Marsh Barton,
    Exeter,
    Devon,EX2 8PY,
    UK
Tel 44 01932 438833 (Ask for dept GB
Fax 44 01932 422099
E-Mail zueseng@argonet.co.uk

No prices on the advert I got this info from,but last time I heard,over
200 quid.
Hope this helps,
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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