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From: David_R._Bobeck_at_USHMM@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 96 07:27:01 EST
Subject: Re: Removal of bolts?

seem to be held in by the rubber bush. I have tried everything I can think 
of, greasing, pulling pushing. Does anyone have any suggestions? 

Have you tried turning? :)

If you can't move 'em just burn out the rubber with your favorite torch. Then 
you have to get out the metal sleeve that's left behind. Oh yeah and if the 
springs are still attached and you cant undo the bolt at all, then you will have
to cut the bolt. Yes, it takes a long time, and no its not fun.

Cheers
Dave "Been there, done that"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 12:28:24 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Heat-related problem - vapor lock?

>Vapor lock, of all things.

Any ideas I missed?
>.
If its vapour lock,it has more to do with the temperature under the bonnet/
ambient,than coolant temp.ie the exhaust manifold runs just as hot whatever
thermostat you've got in the engine.
Isnt there a heat shield on the petrol models,to keep the exh manifold
from vaporising the fuel in the carb? And you *could* tryre-routing the
fuel line away from anything hot.The last example of vapour lock I saw
last year,some twerp had replaced the carb with a Weber,and run the fuel
line right over the top of the engine.That silly in line fuel filter doesnt
help,either.Most folk over here bin 'em.
Cheers
Uncle Mike

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 24 Apr 96  7:47:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Heat-related problem - vapor lock?

>Isnt there a heat shield on the petrol models,to keep the exh manifold
>from vaporising the fuel in the carb? And you *could* tryre-routing the
>fuel line away from anything hot.

No place to go with it, really, unless I put it up the firewall in the back - 
and I don't like the idea of a fuel line there.

>The last example of vapour lock I saw
>last year,some twerp had replaced the carb with a Weber,and run the fuel
>line right over the top of the engine.That silly in line fuel filter doesnt
>help,either.Most folk over here bin 'em.

Here's a point, then. The routing of my fuel line comes up the side of the 
engine, around the front by the radiator neck, and then direct to the carb 
intake. is this correct? Seems to be to me, at least by the manuals.... BTW, my 
inline filter is right down by the pump. I've had problems with those before 
when installed directly at the carb, so it went someplace cooler.

I like the silly things myself. Considering the crud that came out the intake f 
the old one when I changed it at 7500 miles, the local fuel sods are not 
keeping their tanks clean.

Opinions?

  ajr

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Apr 96 07:47:53 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: test again-definitely don't read this one.

hey Mike. I knew you'd read this...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Apr 96 08:12:52 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Heat-related problem - vapor lock?

>>No place to go with it, really, unless I put it up the firewall in the back - 
and I don't like the idea of a fuel line there.

I've heard of this routing referred to as the "Vapour Lock Special". Seems 
that the combination of heat and having the fuel line higher thean the carb is 
what really causes this problem.

>>Here's a point, then. The routing of my fuel line comes up the side of the 
engine, around the front by the radiator neck, and then direct to the carb 
intake. is this correct?

That's how I did mine, as per RN and several different manuals. The PO or the 
PPo had installed a regular fuel hose straight up and over the valve cover. Not 
good. Also made it a real drag to lift the valve cover, not to mentio it looked 
like doo-doo. There should be a small clip on one of the thermostat housing 
bolts, that the fuel line clips into. Mine runs from the pump, under the oil 
filler neck support bracket, up to the clip on the thermostat housing, and back 
to  the carb. 

>>inline filter is right down by the pump. I've had problems with those before 
when installed directly at the carb, 

Mine is down by the pump, sort of hard to get to, but at least it gets cooled by
all the oil flying around by the oil filter...yikes.

>>like the silly things myself. Considering the crud that came out ...snip...t 
7500 miles, the local fuel sods are not 
keeping their tanks clean.

I like em too, all the other filters don't really seem sufficient, since they're
just pieces of screen. As far as sods go, I'd place the source of that crud just
a bit more "locally", perhaps it's coming from inside *your* tank. (shudder)

BTW, never got htose 2 messages you sent yesterday, but the server here is "all 
better", so why don't you resend 'em.

Opinions?

You asked for it :)

Cheers
Dave

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 08:44:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: "H. J. Hewson" <hhewson@mail.erols.com>
Subject: Bushings

Can anyone offer advice on removing old bushings from an '89RR? I'm in the
middle of installing poly-bushes.  The panhard rod went fine with a
"Bushwacka" tool supplied by Rovers North, but the kit does not have the
proper size adaptors and sleeves to press out the bushings from the front
and rear radius arms.

I recall a thread concerning burning out the rubber and hacksawing the
sleeves. Any comments?

Also, how important is it to not reuse nylock nuts? Wouldn't a little extra
torque and some locktite work just as well?

This is turning out to be a much bigger (and more expensive) job than I'd
anticipated...

I haven't been getting the list lately, so could you E-mail me as well?

Thanks in advance,

Harry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 09:41:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Security by .308

On Tue, 23 Apr 1996, Jeff & Laura Kessler wrote:

> You did not mention the Disco.  Perhaps....
> Discovery: 

	Armoured stereo system alarm that will play Saturday Night Fever
	over and over and over....  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 06:50:24 -0700
From: cascardo@ix.netcom.com (Lucas Andres Cascardo)
Subject: Re: Def. door hinge rusting

Hello,

What can I do to prevent door hinge rusting.  Does anyone have any 
better ideas than using white lithium grease.  Unfortunately rusting 
has begun and I'm going to have to have to remove and strip them.

Thanks for the input,

Lucas Cascardo  '95 D90 SW
    

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 10:26:34 -0400
From: michelbe@login.net (Michel)
Subject: Re: Def. door hinge rusting

Lucas was asking:

>What can I do to prevent door hinge rusting.  Does anyone have any 
>better ideas than using white lithium grease.  Unfortunately rusting 
>has begun and I'm going to have to have to remove and strip them.

On Rudolph, my 63 109, I just got them galvanized. Matches the rest of the
trim and will be rust-free for quite some time. Had to sandblast them before
having them dipped cos' the galvanising place doesn't like any paint to mix
with their acid or whatever. I got the old style though (The ones that are
supposed to be dangerous and not quite aero-dynamic). I had to use a
grinding bit on my drill to remove the excessive zinc here and there,
though. Don't know about Defender hinges though. If you can't take it apart,
it's probably not too recommended to have them galvanized cause both pieces
will sort of weld together. On my locker and tailgate hinges, I had to use a
propane torch to free them up. Some of them turned a little blue in the
process but it doesn't show much.

I think that the D90 hinges are identical to the Series III hinges. Try to
find an old one wich isn't that nice and have it sandblasted and try to take
it apart. See if you can have it galvanized without ruining the mechanism.
It won't cost you much to try it and if it works, the hinges will be
rust-free for years!

Hope it helps and good luck,

Michel Bertrand
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada
             ______________________ 
 >>>>>>>>>>>|__________|| ()|______| 1963 IIA 109 PU (top is off) (Rudolph)
            |          ||---|  /\ |  and friends (109 SW + 88 sw) (not shown) 
            |__________||---|_ \/_| 
 >>>>>>>>>>>|__________||___|______|
                                             

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 07:21:22 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@mail.comox.island.net>
Subject: Re: Heat-related problem - vapor lock?

> Vapor lock, of all things.
> Any ideas I missed?

If it's really stubborn, a high volume electric pump back near the tank 
(a liquid under pressure requires a higher temp to boil), a pressure 
regulator beside the carb, and a return line to bleed excess fuel back to 
the tank will cure it. This type of setup uses the tank as a heat sink to 
cool the fuel. Circulating the fuel constantly means it is underhood, in 
a position to be excessively heated, for a shorter length of time.

My 11A used to have this problem. After standing knee deep in a water 
crossing pulling the fuel line and hand priming till I had fuel not 
vapour I declared war on vapour lock. BTW that vehicle is now in the yard 
with grass growing up through the floor but the two are unrelated :-)

Cheers, Greg

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 10:49:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: rthomas@postoffice.ptd.net (Randall Thomas)
Subject: Re: Heat-related problem - vapor lock?

Alan,

I went through this same nightmare several years ago. During my 
rebuild effort I decided to try something fairly radical and to my surprise 
it worked.  First, as I was reassembling the car, I decided to run copper 
lines from the fuel tank.  This came up to an in line filter,(large and metal) 
which I bracketed to the bulkhead bracket (the thing the steering box 
would be mounted to if it were RHD).  From the filter I ran flex, to account
for 
engine movement, going to the pump.  The output of the pump going to the 
carb is solid copper pipe, (3/8" I think).  From the pump it does a loop and 
then runs straight back towards the bulkhead about level with the top of the
block. 
The pipe then loops around the back of the engine retained by a clip mounted 
to that little cover on the back of the head.  At the left rear of the
engine the pipe comes 
up to a height just above the intake manifold and straight forward across
the manifold 
to a sharp left turn into the carb.  I have a 2 bbl Weber with Pierce manifold.
I bundled the distributor vacuum line and the choke cable right along with
it and 
it looks real nice.  Three summers so far with absolutely no vapor lock
problems 
under any driving conditions, e.g. 4 hour traffic jam at Washington beltway
on 102F 
day, average 2 miles per hour, or August offroading.
I was a little surprised as I thought the copper would absorb the heat and
was thinking 
I may have to insulate it or something.  Anyway, looks like it's had the
opposite effect 
and is keeping the fuel cooler.
Well, there's my two cents/pence, whatever.....

Cheers, Randall

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 96 11:15:00 CDT

I'm having trouble keeping track of all of the different soft tops available 
for the D90.
What is the most minimal top available for a D90 with a full cage and rear 
seat?
(I don't care about the back passengers, so it doen't have to cover them.)
Also, what is the price for such a top?

Thanks,
Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 12:29:55 -0400
From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: "New" Series sightings in Connecticut

This past Saturday I spotted two Series Vehicles locally that I hadn't seen
before.  Both were in the vicinity of the Norwalk Cove Marina in Norwalk,
CT.

The first was a faded red 88 hardtop, either a late IIa or a III with New
York license tags.  It was parked in the marina dry dock area.  I assume
it's owner was working on his/her or someone else's boat.  Ron, the owner
of the boat I was working on, thought that it might belong to one of the
members of Norwalk Yacht Club, but he wasn't positive, and couldn't
remember the name of the person in question.

The second vehicle was spotted at a distance from the deck of Ron's boat.
It was a dark green 109 pickup, carrying two windsurfers from the Norwalk
Public Beach.

Just when you think you know all of the local Series trucks, more come out
of the woods.  Which is just fine by me!  Anybody have any clues?

RoverOn!

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg          Purple Shark Media                 Rowayton, CT

                         jeff@purpleshark.com
                          ==================
               My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
          My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
                       Taste for the good life,
                      I can see it no other way.
                                --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: 24 Apr 96 13:54:05 EDT
From: Richard Brownlee <101360.3273@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: ARC National Meet

On  Fri, 19 Apr David Olley wrote:

>I am not aware of anything, but if anybody wants such an area, I can 
>offer my Trade Stand. The stand will be under the name of New Concept, 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>bods is welcome to show up and make themselves known. Messages can be 
>left etc.

>Let me know if this will suffice. I shall be pleased to see visitors, 
>and I will not try to sell you anything!:-)

>I also lie.

Hows about a competition?  See how many LROs you can get in a SWB Land Rover
whilst it is being lifted with an Air Jack
or
How many beer bottle opening points can you find (David to supply the
bottles???)

See you there

Richard Brownlee

Surrey UK

77 Range Rover

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 24 Apr 96 14:13:15 MST
Subject: Aluminum body, "tougher" than you think.

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486

Hello all, There's been some talk lately about nerf bars, and aluminum
body longevity with regard to trail damage. I'd like to share a brief
story about the '94 Discovery that I used to own. Sold because it was
"too hard to draw", right? Okay, I couldn't afford her.   :(   Anyway,
within the first week or so, I was goofing off, and drove up a freeway
overpass ramp (the under side of a freeway bridge.) This was roughly 35
to 40degree incline, which the Disco handled with absolutely no qualms,
except that the trailer hitch/bumper, (or unknown part?) dragged on the
way up. No problem, I thought, but then on the way back down (note, that
since this was straight up, and there was a freeway as a "roof" I
couldn't proceed forward) I caught the tail pipe on the ground, and
managed to wrap the pipe, and muffler around the rear axle, which then
bent the aluminum body causing a crease at approximately the "1:00"
position above the rear tire. (A maneuver that I DON'T recommend!) as
well as tearing off one of the mud flaps. (A weak Disco point.) After
pulling the muffler away from the tire, I could once again proceed, and
limped home with a broken truck, and hurt pride. (Did I mention that
there was around 20 or so of my friends watching??)

To make a long story short, (too late!) the body bent back to a very
close resemblance of original, save for a rather large spot where the
paint chipped off from flexing. In the end, I had a friend repair it so
I could sell it without taking a large loss. It didn't work (the large
loss, that is) as I still took a $10K loss on a 9 month old Disco with
17K miles. (Drove it a LOT, absolutely loved it!)

All in all, I'd rather have the aluminum that can be bent back to some
resemblance of original shape, over steel that can't.

Keep the aluminum side up.... Dave (known for stupid tricks) Brown

 #=====#         #========#            _________
 |___|__\___     |___|__|__\___       //__/__|__\___
 | _ |   |_ |}   | _ |  |   |_ |}     \__/-\_|__/-\_|}
 "(_)""""(_)"    "(_)"""""""(_)"         (_)    (_)

 1971 "88" IIa   1970 "109" IIa        '87 Range Rover
 LIC: LION B8    Historic plates        rear Lock-Right  Bilstein shocks
                                        Crane cam        Optima battery
                                        OME HD springs   SSB CB radio
 Phoenix Arizona USA (602) 820-8052     Hella lights (6)
 Have: tools, knowledge, lodging, etc...  Pager: (602) 275-2508 #6486

#=======#         _________         "What lies behind us and what lies
|__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___    before us are tiny matters compared
| _|  |   |_ |}  \__/-\_|__/-\_|}  to what lies within us."
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                     Ralph Waldo Emerson

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 17:28:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Dobie-o-matic for Discovery

Do you assume that only a dweeb would steal a Discovery? The rocket propelled
Dobermanns would also have to be trained to attack geeks and pencil necks (or
both combined). Then there is the matter of cleaning the weapon after use...I
doubt even a trained attack dog would refrain from fouling the barrel in a
most disagreeable manner during launch. I believe the Jerries tried something
similar in the Last War, it was called the Schnell Hund Faust. Like many of
their secret weapons it was highly impractical as it would only function if
the intended target had a schnitzel tried around his neck.

------------------------------

From: "Peter Monk" <monk@calypso.math.udel.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 17:47:41 -0400
Subject: Chevy engines 

A friend of mine without e-mail asked me to post the following question:

Does anyone have information on installing a 2.5 Chevy engine in
a Land Rover?

I will pass any responses on....

Thanks

Peter

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
     Department of Mathematical Sciences      Phone: 302-831-1873
     University of Delaware                   FAX  : 302-831-4511
     Newark, DE 19716
     USA 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 18:00:10 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: The major...

Is anyone else having major pains with the Major?  I've signed up with CSO 
in addition to LRO, but for the last week or ten days, I've been getting 
*alternating* digests...LRO one day, CSO the next.  Strange.
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: "David J. Mercer" <merkin@sierra.net>
Subject: RE: Multimeters
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 14:38:23 -0700

------ =_NextPart_000_01BB31F0.0CED2200
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	The best I have seen is Fluke model 88. They are rather expensive =
(around $250+ US) but are worth it they can do anything from measuring =
temperature to giving the RPM. And they are built like a tank. From =
personal experience, I would not buy anything other than a Fluke.

----------

David Mercer
PO BOX 2570
Olympic Valley CA 96146
916-583-4150
merkin@sierra.net
53 S1 80"
57 S1 107" SW
63 SII 88"
65 SII 88"
66 SII 88"
86 MB 280GE
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 18:49:25 -0400
From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: RE: Multimeters

>	The best I have seen is Fluke model 88. They are rather expensive =
>(around $250+ US) but are worth it they can do anything from measuring =
>temperature to giving the RPM. And they are built like a tank. From =
>personal experience, I would not buy anything other than a Fluke.

While doing research for Allan I was quoted a price of $494 for the Fluke
Model 88 and $289 for the Model 78.  The 78 does everything described
above.  Not certain what extras the 88 provides.  Both are sold through the
auto test equipment division of the company, and are available in the U.S.
through NAPA stores.  With the 78 (and possibly the 88) you need an
optional test lead to connect to the distributor to measure RPM.  Still
tempting though.

For those interested, more information is available on Flukes WWW site.
Check out <http://www.fluke.com> .  It's not complete, but it ain't too bad.

RoverOn!

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg          Purple Shark Media                 Rowayton, CT

                         jeff@purpleshark.com
                          ==================
               My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
          My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
                       Taste for the good life,
                      I can see it no other way.
                                --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 20:00:22 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@mail.CandW.lc>
Subject: RE: Multimeters for diesel

On Wed, 24 Apr 1996, "David J. Mercer" <merkin@sierra.net> wrote:

>	The best I have seen is Fluke model 88. They are rather expensive =
>(around $250+ US) but are worth it they can do anything from measuring =
>temperature to giving the RPM.

I just fitted a tach in my Tdi, and it gets its RPM signal from an otherwise 
unused terminal on the alternator. I just looked in the workshop manual for my 
Niva (Russian full-time 4X4, petrol) but couldn't confirm that it works off the 
distributor, but I think it does. (I didn't have to learn about the electrickery 
of the Niva as hardly anything ever went wrong). 
I have two questions that I hope someone can help with: my tach is the 2" 
diameter LR unit, so would it be the same as that which I understand is fitted 
in the US-spec 90?; and if a multimeter can test RPM, does that mean petrol 
engines only? 
Thanks
Allan
St. Lucia

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 21:47:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: John Antram <rewt@sover.net>
Subject: Hard roof sheets?

	Hello everyone, I'm back to ask more stupid questions... The 
first being has anyone cut a hard-top side window set up? I'm still a bit 
poor after taxes & rover frames to afford a soft-top. I'm thinking that a 
cut right at the front of the side windows would allow a fairly solid 
corner/back to mount a standard hardtop sheet to. ( I have a leakey one 
that, if it bends, its not a crisis. ) Has anyone tried this? Is it 
against some roverdom law? ( I'd take the door tops off, too for maximum 
wind. :) Thanks.

John Antram	rewt@sover.net     RR 3 Box 888 Middlebury, VT  05753
Membership coordinator, "Green Mountain Rover Association"
1972 Land Rover Series III 88", sunrooves (badly improvised by PO), Red
1995 Land Rover Discovery, 5-speed, sunrooves, Roman Bronze
1987 Mercedes-Benz 300SDL, Anthracite Gray

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 22:47:22 -0500
From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com>
Subject: Re: antique insurance

A few nights ago I said I would get the name and number of another source
for antique insurance.

Hagerty Marine & Classic Insurance, PO Box 87, Traverse City, MI 49685,
phone 800-922-4050.

If they will not deal with you direct, ask them for the name and number of
an agent in your area (or state).

BTW, another insurance agent I work with tried to call Condom & Skelley a
few days ago and nobody answered the phone.

I am still planning to talk with an adjuster about appraisals on older autos.

Jeff Kessler
1988 Range Rover
Newport NH USA   603-863-7883

At 12:00 AM 4/23/96 -0500, you wrote:
>At 03:41 PM 4/22/96 EDT, you wrote:
>>Dear all,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 46 lines)]
>Jeff Kessler (insurance agent (day job))
>1988 Range Rover
>Newport NH  USA   603-863-7883

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 24 Apr 96 20:42:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Dobie-o-matic for Discovery

>Do you assume that only a dweeb would steal a Discovery? 

No, I implied only a dweeb would OWN one.....I said BEHIND, not in front of the 
cross-hairs...8*)

>The rocket propelled
>Dobermanns would also have to be trained to attack geeks and pencil necks (or
>both combined). 

Mere details....

>Then there is the matter of cleaning the weapon after use...I
>doubt even a trained attack dog would refrain from fouling the barrel in a
>most disagreeable manner during launch.

Yes, but the rocket exhaust would deal with it. Just a bit of ash to be wiped 
clean with a damp sponge.

> I believe the Jerries tried something
>similar in the Last War, it was called the Schnell Hund Faust. Like many of
>their secret weapons it was highly impractical as it would only function if
>the intended target had a schnitzel tried around his neck.

Should have gotten Alsatians instead. Those damn things are dumb enough to eat 
anything....even GIs.

    aj"TONGUE IN CHEEK, GUYS!"r
 

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 23:15:13 -0400
Subject: test

test

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 22:54:58
From: CarDoctor@gnn.com (Robert Davis)

Hi All,
 I am writing for a friend who is looking for a Land Rover pickup with a V8.
He is willing to fly anywhere in the USA to drive it back. If any one knows 
of one for sale please email me with the facts & I will forward it to him.

Regards,
 Rob Davis_chicago   

------------------------------

From: "Paul Hazell" <p.hazell@WORC.AC.UK>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 09:40:56 +0100
Subject:       buggy screen saver

I get the same problem with the Mac version of the LR screen saver, tends to 
crash the machine if its left for to long.....I'll just have to spend more time 
working ;-)

Paul Hazell (SIII Lt/wt 1972)

      _________________________
     /                         \
    /___________________________\
    ||            |            ||
    ||     .______|______.     ||
    ||-----|             |-----|| 
/-\ ||----_|_____________|_----|| /-\
\_/ |    / +++++++++++++++ \    | \_/
   \|   / +++++++(_)+++++++ \   |/
    -----\ +++++++++++++++ /-----
    |/ \ | +++++++++++++++ | / \|
    |\_/ | +++++++++++++++ | \_/|
    _____  +++++++++++++++  _____
    |___|    ._________.    |___|
    _|_|_____|ERL  339K|_____|_|_
    |___________________________|
    |   |   \__/            |   |
    |   |                   |   |
    |___|                   |___|

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Dobie-o-matic for Discovery
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 96 8:43:36 BST

> Should have gotten Alsatians instead. Those damn things are dumb enough to eat 
> anything....even GIs.

That's why they're also known as German Shepherd's...
(shepherd the French and other enemies)

Richard

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: RE: Multimeters for diesel
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 96 8:48:40 BST

> I just fitted a tach in my Tdi, and it gets its RPM signal from an otherwise 
> unused terminal on the alternator. I just looked in the workshop manual for my 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> in the US-spec 90?; and if a multimeter can test RPM, does that mean petrol 
> engines only? 

I was going to add a tacho to my SIII at some point in the future. I was
going to build it myself, based upon a Maplin design (ie. will be digital).
This is just a glorified frequency counter - and this, I bet, is how the
Fluke measures rpm.
This design uses pulses off the distributor IIRC (ie petrol only), but there
is no reason that you couldn't measure the freq. coming out of the alternator
(what you're doing).

Yes, I know digital readouts aren't very Series-ish, but if I write "Sinclair"
on the panel!!

Richard

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 09:19:11 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Dobie-o-matic for Discovery

>> Should have gotten Alsatians instead. Those damn things are dumb enough
>>to eat
>> anything....even GIs.
>That's why they're also known as German Shepherd's...
>(shepherd the French and other enemies)
Now here's me thinking we'd all agreed on the weapon of choice.A Newfoundland.
Wont hurt a fly,but will lick *anyone* to death.Also useful to chuck out into
deep water to tow the vehicle through.The only limitation upon its use being
the length of time it can be left in the vehicle before it fills the thing up
with drool.
Well,nothings perfect.
Mike Rooth
PS Have also been known to yank French fishermen out of the drink.BAD dog!

------------------------------

From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: Re: Expansion tank
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 10:53:38 +-200

"Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com> wrote:

>Expansion tanks on radiators:

>My views on this are different from many people's, including a majority
>of car manufacturers. THEY ARE ALL WRONG!!!

No, You are right. Take a look at how Land-Rover did it on 110" V8 . Expansion
tanks are available as sparepart from the factory, or most sparepart dealers in UK.

Happy rovering

Bent Boehlers
110", V8, STW, 12 seat, 1983

------------------------------

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